We Go With Kids!

Author: Catherine D’Cruz

  • Things to Do in York, England

    Things to Do in York, England

    York is an unparalleled medieval city and one of the few places from all of my travels that I have called home.  I studied medieval history and sociology at the University of York as an exchange student during my junior year of college.  It was during that time many moons ago that my wanderlust began.  I explored literally every nook and cranny of the city – visited every museum, bought produce at the Shambles Market, watched Hamlet in the Yorkshire Museum’s theater, peeked inside York Minster several times each week and tried out dozens of pubs.  I met life-long friends while playing cards in the common room of my residence hall and also used York as my home base while traveling around the UK on weekends and to eight other European countries during my six-week Spring break.

    York is an easy two-hour train journey on England’s Northern line from Kings’ Cross station, and I have been back four times since my semester abroad.  When we planned our last trip to London in 2015, I was ecstatic that we would be able to fit in two days and one night in York.  We booked tickets a few weeks in advance online through Grand Central Railway.  Our kids (aged 11 months, 5 and 7) thoroughly enjoyed the lovely train journey, and we fit all of our things for the quick trip into two backpacks that we tucked in our daughter’s stroller.

    Traveling by train with a table is one of the most comfortable ways to go
    Baby and luggage on board

    When orienting yourself in York, it is important to remember that streets are called gates, gates are called bars, and bars are called pubs.   Most streets end in “gate” like Fishergate, Castlegate, Fossgate and Petergate.  The four main entries into the city are called Bootham Bar, Monk Bar, Walmgate Bar and Mickelgate Bar.  And, as is common throughout the UK, the corner establishments that sell beer by the pint are called pubs.

    We stayed at the Novotel York Centre, a modern hotel just outside the city walls between the city center and the University of York.  The only downside to our trip was that it was unseasonably hot.  The Novotel was not air conditioned but luckily did offer us a fan.

    I particularly enjoyed taking the kids to visit the University of York, the guesthouse where I lived and my favorite pub, the Rose & Crown.  We stopped by on the evening we were there and found that kids were not permitted after 8 p.m.  We returned the next afternoon when the pub was practically empty and were directed to a back room.  My husband and I enjoyed some beer, but it was clear that our kids were not really welcome.  Those stops would probably not be trip highlights for families with no connection to the University.

    The architecture of the University of York, which was established in 1963, starkly contrasts that of the medieval city
    My boys playing in my old back garden
    My favorite pub from my university days

    The city offers so many great things for any family, but these are our favorite things to do in York, England.

    #1:  Relax in Museum Gardens With Kids

    Museum Gardens is a very special place – this is where my husband literally got down on one knee and asked me to marry him while surreptitiously filming with my digital camera years ago. These Gardens are known for the medieval ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey as much as they are known for the luscious green space.  When I was a university student, I walked through the gardens practically every time I went into York’s city center.  I was always in awe of the Abbey ruins, especially when they were illuminated at night.

    On our first trip to York with our children, the Museum Gardens were definitely at the top of our list.  Even though it was a quick overnight trip, we spent at least an hour relaxing in the Gardens each day.  We showed them right where their Dad proposed to me, but the exact spot was unfortunately under construction at the time.  And, the peacocks that used to roam in the Gardens have been removed since my last visit.

    It’s an amazing place to sit and think

    While climbing on medieval ruins is pretty cool, the highlight of our time in Museum Gardens was definitely the Birds of Prey Show.  Admittedly, the Birds of Prey Show more than made up for the missing peacocks.  A falconer brought six birds of prey to showcase during the free seasonal show that we happened to catch.  And, our five-year old son was chosen to hold a white barn owl, which is something he will never forget.

    The Gardens also contain the remains of the west corner of the Roman fort of Eboracum, including the Multangular Tower and parts of the Roman walls.

    The Multangular Tower with Roman stones on the lower portion

    The Yorkshire Museum is also located on the grounds and features archeology, geology, paleontology and natural history collections.

    • York Museum Gardens Facts for Kids:  If the medieval abbey ruins are not ancient enough, Museum Gardens also include the remains of a portion of a Roman fort, including the Multangular Tower and a portion of Roman wall.
    • Kid Moment:  The owl show seems to be a free seasonal attraction and was an absolute highlight of our trip to York.  Distinguishing the small Roman stones from the larger medieval ones on the Multangular Tower and adjoining wall is also a great activity.

    #2:  Evensong at York Minster With Kids

    York Minster is the largest cathedral in Northern England.  I’ve been to dozens of cathedrals, but York Minster is my hands-down favorite.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve walked through its doors, and every time, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe at its enormity and beauty.

    The Minster’s West Window – the Heart of York
    York Minster has a way of making me feel quite small

    Because our trip was so short, and we had a baby with us, we did not take the guided tour.  Also, children must be at least eight to climb the narrow staircase to the top of the tower, so we had to save that for another trip.  We chose instead to visit during Evensong with Songmen and Choral Scholars.

    • York Minster Facts for Kids: Construction began on the Minster in the thirteenth century after at least three churches previously at this site had been destroyed.  Its classic Gothic architecture was modeled after Canterbury Cathedral (the archbishop of York is second in England only to the archbishop of Canterbury).  Its stained-glass windows are some of the best remaining examples from medieval times.  There was a disastrous fire in 1984 that badly damaged the south transept.
    • Kid Moment:  Make sure to request a free Explorer Backpack and the Blue Peter roof bosses in the south transept.  In 1986, the popular television show Blue Peter held the York Minster Contest and asked children to submit boss designs for the Minster’s vaulted ceiling.  They are the only cathedral designs I have ever seen created by children.
    Roof bosses, including those designed by winners of the Blue Peter Contest

    Downton Abbey fans will notice that the York Minster makes several cameo appearances in the series, which is set in Yorkshire.

    #3:  Climb Clifford’s Tower With Kids

    Clifford’s Tower is a tower that sits on top of a small hill and is reminiscent of Monty Python movies.  It is the largest remaining portion of the castle originally built on this site by William the Conqueror.  There isn’t much to see inside the Tower, but it does offer the best view of York.  We arrived after it closed, but the kids enjoyed running up the hill to get a closer view.

    Clifford’s Tower

     

    We reached the top

    Below Clifford’s Tower is the York Castle Museum that allows visitors to step back into time and experience everyday life in earlier centuries.  While it is named in honor of the castle that used to sit on this site, it is housed in prison buildings constructed in the 18th century.

    The Castle Museum
    • Clifford’s Tower Facts for Kids:  Clifford’s Tower is the only remaining portion of York Castle.  In 1190, about 150 Jews died inside the previous timber tower that stood on this hill – most from mass suicide to avoid being murdered.  The current stone tower dates from the 13th century.
    • Kid Moment:  My kids particularly enjoy towers in general, but the added excitement of the hill and stairs made Clifford’s Tower especially fun.
    • Kid Caution:  Clifford’s Tower is definitely not stroller accessible.

    #4:  Walk on the York City Walls With Kids

    Since Roman times, cities were walled as a defense mechanism.  York’s city walls are more intact than any other city in England and recently ranked by CNN as the third best medieval walled city in the world.  There are some remains of the Roman brickwork, as well as Norman and medieval portions with modern renovations.

    Visitors can access the remaining portions of the city walls by climbing the stairs at each of the four Bars.  The entire circuit is 4.5 miles, and the best stretch is between Bootham Bar and Monk Bar.

    Walmgate Bar is the only city gate in England with a working barbican, a fortified outpost of gateway.  Unfortunately, the 12th century stone archway did not contemplate the size of modern vehicles, and there are regularly accidents.  This is how it looked in 2015, and how I generally remember it.  I think a truck tried to drive through days after it was re-opened when I lived there.

    Walmgate Bar, the city gate closest to the University of York
    • York City Walls Facts for Kids:  Very little of the Roman walls remain, but the current 13th-century walls were built right on top of the Roman ones.
    • Kid Moment:  We imagined what it would be like to be a castle guard scanning the horizon for enemy forces as we walked along the walls.
    • Kid Caution:  Like Clifford’s Tower, the city walls are definitely not stroller accessible.

    #5:  Stroll Down the Shambles With Kids

    The Shambles is a very old and narrow street with overhanging timber buildings lining each side.  The architecture is classic 15th century Tudor.  Its name comes from “shamel,” meaning either slaughterhouse or the stalls or benches used to display meat.  In 1862, there were 26 different butcher shops on this small, cobbled pedestrian street.  The first-floor shops that used to be occupied by butchers are now predominately used as souvenir shops and cafes.  There are so many charming and irresistible shops in York’s city center.  Many people believe that the Shambles was an inspiration for Harry Potter‘s Diagon Alley.  Find out more about the Shambles and its recent wizarding shops.

    We caught the Shambles at a quiet moment, but it is usually crowded with tourists
    • Shambles Facts for Kids:  One advantage of the cantilevered buildings is that it maximizes available space without obstructing the street.
    • Kid Moment:  With the narrow street and the overhanging buildings, it is fun to stand in the middle of the street and look up.

    York is a great destination for families to get a chance to experience a bit of medieval times (and not the dinner theater variety).  Our trip was so short that we didn’t have a chance to make a day trip from York, but we hope to next time for sure.  Planning a family trip to England?  Check out all our posts on England and London.

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  • Chicago With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Chicago With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Chicago is a city of iconic architecture, stunning lake views, renowned museums and recent renovation practically everywhere.  With its metropolitan atmosphere and dash of Midwestern charm, Chicago is not surprisingly one of our favorite cities.  It is a quick flight away from Cleveland, so we are lucky to visit the Windy City almost every year and have taken children aged two months to five years.  We are definitely planning a long overdue Chicago trip with all three kids in 2018.

    When traveling to Chicago by plane, there is easy access to downtown on the “El” (elevated) train from Midway on the Orange Line or O’Hare on the Blue Line.  We usually arrive at Midway during morning rush hour and always take the El downtown.  Once downtown, we walk almost everywhere or occasionally take an Uber.

    We have stayed in many hotels in Chicago, but here are a few of our centrally-located favorites:

    • The Ritz Carlton, Chicago – This is probably my favorite hotel in the US.  It is located in the Water Tower Place right next to the John Hancock Center on the Magnificent Mile and has indoor access to the mall.  The rooms are impeccable, and the lobby is an absolute delight.  The hotel completed a $100 million renovation in July 2017, and its delightful lobby has been completely transformed.  The fountain was replaced with a floor to ceiling art installation.
    • Palmer House – A Hilton Hotel – We have stayed at this historic hotel several times.  It is located in the center of the Loop and was also recently renovated.  The lobby magnificently maintains its original splendor with a stunning mural on the ceiling and seems right out of Downton Abbey.
    • Hyatt Regency Chicago – This is Chicago’s largest hotel with comfortable guest rooms located in two towers.  Also recently renovated, the lobby features BIG Bar’s stunning liquor tower.

    There are so many fun family activities in Chicago, but here are our top five.

    #1: Navy Pier

    With about 9 million visitors each year, Navy Pier is a major Chicago tourist attraction.  It’s a bit of a hike to get there from downtown, so we hopped on one of the seasonal free trolleys after dinner on our last night in Chicago.

    The Pier was constructed in 1916 as a commercial-shipping pier and redesigned as a tourist attraction in 1995.   The Ferris wheel is the obvious centerpiece of the Pier.  We enjoyed a night ride in 2013 on the pictured Ferris wheel that was retired in 2015.  The new bigger and better $26.5 million DW60 opened in May 2016.

    The carousel on the Pier was a big hit with our kids.  We were lucky that there was almost no line, and we able to ride many times in a row.

    Navy Pier offers fun for all ages, including a mall, the IMAX Theatre, the Chicago Children’s Museum, a house-maze, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, the Chicago Shakespeare Theatre and an 18-hole minigolf course in the summer.  You’ll also find the expected souvenir shops, restaurants and bars.

    #2:  River Cruise

    Chicago architecture was world-famous long before the Trump International Hotel and Tower became the fourth tallest building in the world upon its completion in 2009.  The city practically had a blank slate after the Great Chicago Fires of 1871.  Chicago’s architectural icons include the skyscrapers such as the Willis Tower (the world’s tallest building from 1974-1998 and formerly known as the Sears Tower) and the John Hancock Center, the neo-Gothic Tribune Tower (home of the Chicago Tribune), Frank Lloyd Wright’s Rookery Building, the art deco Merchandise Mart and the mixed-use Marina City with an exposed parking ramp that has been likened to Sagrada Familia.

    With many of the landmark buildings located along the river, several tour companies offer architectural river boat tours.  The most popular is offered through a partnership between the Chicago Architecture Foundation and Chicago’s First Lady Cruises.  We planned to take that tour with our three and five year old sons but waffled after learning that children are discouraged and also require a full price ticket.  We opted for the more family-friendly Mercury Skyline Cruiseline, which offers a narrated architectural tour and a bit of cruising on Lake Michigan.

    Trump Tower
    Marina City Towers
    City view from Lake Michigan

    #3:  The Field Museum of Natural History

    The Field Museum is one of the world’s largest natural history museums.  It opened in 1893 and was named to honor its first major benefactor, Marshall Field, the founder of the Chicago-based department store who donated $1 million to the Museum in 1894.  It is located on Museum Campus along Lake Michigan.

    The Field Museum boasts one of the world’s best dinosaur collections.  Sue, the world’s most complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton, has been prominently displayed in the main hall of the Museum since 2000.  However, Sue will be moved upstairs in early 2018 when a cast of the world’s largest dinosaur, which was found in 2014, moves in.

    With two young boys who were excited about prehistoric creatures, we definitely did not miss the dinosaur exhibit.

    We also explored an Egyptian tomb in the three-story Inside Ancient Egypt exhibit.  This exhibit includes one of the world’s largest collections of human mummies.  This was our boys’ first exposure to Egypt, but they were fascinated and have since enjoyed Egyptian exhibits at the National Museum of Natural History and the Cleveland Museum of Art.

    As members of the ASTC Passport Program, we also enjoyed free admission with our reciprocal membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History.

    #4:  Adler Planetarium

    Our kids love space as much as they love dinosaurs.  My older son wanted to be an astronaut through pre-school and had a great time visiting the Adler Planetarium.  The Adler Planetarium was the first planetarium in the western hemisphere and named for philanthropist Max Adler, who donated funds after visiting a planetarium in Munich.  The beautiful stone building houses many interactive exhibits and three theaters, including the most technologically enhanced planetarium theater and a high-definition 3D theater.

    Our boys enjoyed the interactive exhibits focusing on the planets, solar system and space exploration, and, of course, the planetarium show.  As members of the Association of Science-Technology Center’s (ASTC) Passport Program, we also received free admission with our reciprocal membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History.  However, we did have to pay extra to attend the theater show.

    At the tip of Museum Campus, the Adler Planetarium boasts one of the best views of the Chicago skyline. 

    #5:  Millennium Park 

    Millennium Park was designed in the late 1990s to honor the third millennium.  Construction costs ballooned from $150 million to $475 million, and the opening was delayed until 2004. Today, the park is a widely popular destination for both Chicago residents and tourists and attracts over 25 million people each year.

    The centerpiece of Millennium Park is the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a bandshell used for outdoor music performances.  The Pavilion was designed by Frank Gehry using his characteristic curved stainless steel plates and features a sound system designed to replicate the sound experience of an indoor concert hall.

    Cloud Gate is a public sculpture located at the center of AT&T Plaza in Millennium Park and nicknamed “the Bean” because its shape.  The Bean is created with stainless steel plates that have been welded together and highly polished so that there are no visible seams.  Sir Anish Kapoor designed the sculpture to resemble liquid mercury and the sculpture’s curved surface creates a distorted reflection of the city’s skyline. Construction costs escalated way above the original estimate of $6 million and ultimately cost almost four times that amount.  The Bean was privately funded through donations and unveiled in 2006.  This is a highly interactive sculpture that visitors are encouraged to touch, and it is so popular that we have never been able to get a picture without also capturing dozens of other visitors.

    Baby meets the Bean
    Skyline reflection
    Visitors can walk underneath the Bean

    Chicago is an amazing city to visit that definitely offers something for everyone.

  • Spotlight: The Duquesne Incline With Kids

    Spotlight: The Duquesne Incline With Kids

    Thank you to Duquesne Incline for providing complimentary tickets and a tour for my family.  All opinions are my own. 

    The Duquesne Incline in Pittsburgh is an amazing example of living history that combines a trolley ride up Mount Washington, engineering genius and an amazing city view.  We were traveling to Pittsburgh for Thanksgiving and planned to arrive early enough to visit the Duquesne Incline before our big turkey dinner.  It was a beautiful clear day, and we were eager to get out and take a trolley ride on the Incline after our drive from Cleveland.

    Duquesne Incline Carson Street Station

    The best way to get to the Incline is to park at the gravel Station Square parking lot just below the Incline’s Carson Street Station.  Head up the stairs and over the Carson Street pedestrian bridge that takes you to the beautiful station with notable old-world charm.  When we arrived, a trolley was ready to depart, and we were able to get right on the trolley for a private ride to the top of Mount Washington.  We were surprised that the car ran without a driver onboard, but later realized that the trolley was operated by a control station at the top of the hill.  The trolley sits on top of a platform with an angled base that keeps it level for the entire ride.  It felt like we were stepping back in time when we entered the original trolley car.

    Interior of the trolley car

    The detail of the wood work in the trolley car was absolutely exquisite.

    Trolley car woodwork

    The 794-foot wooden track was both an engineering masterpiece and a work of art.

    Wooden track

    We thoroughly enjoyed our private ride up the Incline and made sure to check out the view from every angle.  When we neared the upper station, the trolley car slowed down until it came to a gentle stop, and the doors opened.

    The Upper Station

    We met Tom Reinheimer, who handles Marketing and Group Tours for the Duquesne Incline, when we arrived at the upper station.  Tom provided us an amazing tour of the museum and gave us an overview of the history of Pittsburgh, its many inclines and the engineering challenges that the engineers had to overcome to build and operate the Incline.  The Incline was designed by Samuel Diescher, who designed a majority of the inclined planes in the US in the late 19th century.  Diescher was associated with John Endres, who built the nearby Monongahela Incline along with his daughter Caroline, who was one of the first female engineers in the US.  Diescher married Caroline in 1872, and the two lived on Mount Washington.  The Duquesne Incline was completed a few years later and opened on May 20, 1877.

    Trolley car traveling down the Incline

    The main purpose of the Incline was to transport cargo and people between Grandview Avenue at the top of Mount Washington to Carson Street at the bottom.  The Incline was especially helpful to the many coal miners who worked by the river providing coal for Pittsburgh’s steel industry and lived up on Mount Washington.  Those who did not take an incline would have to climb up or down 1,400 stairs instead.

    On the tour, Tom shared a great deal of Pittsburgh history – all the way back to the city’s role in the initiation of French and Indian War.  Steam originally powered the Incline, but eventually was retrofitted to electricity and a generator just before the Great Flood of 1936 when passengers were stranded midway up the Incline for the only time in its 140 years of operation.  Passengers were warned that the Incline might not make it to the upper station due to rising flood waters.  We also learned that Pittsburgh was once the US steel capital and produced 60% of the country’s steel.  Before the Clean Air Act, the city was very smoky due to soot produced by the coal mines.

    Tom Reinheimer’s tour of the Upper Station

    Tom then took us to the David H. Miller Working Museum to tour of the Incline’s hoisting machinery.  The Incline still uses its original hoisting equipment that features giant cogs with wooden gear teeth.

    Hoisting equipment

    The tour concluded on the observation deck.  The view was magnificent.  We saw Pittsburgh’s “Three Rivers” confluence of the Allegheny River and the Monongahela River, which together form the Ohio River and the city’s “Golden Triangle” central business district.  Other highlights include views of the outline of Fort Duquesne, the Steelers’ Heinz Field, the Pirates’ PNC Park, the Carnegie Science Center and many bridges (up to 18 can be visible).

    Three rivers and so many bridges

    The Duquesne Incline is a historic landmark but does not receive state or federal subsidies.  The Society for the Preservation of the Duquesne Heights Incline is a non-profit organization that operates the Duquesne Incline and relies on fares, gift shop income and donations to maintain the Incline.

    Our family really enjoyed the Incline ride and breathtaking view.  We all learned a great deal about Pittsburgh history and engineering during our visit.  It is a great attraction for families and visitors of all ages because of the fun trolley ride up, the historical significance and the amazing city view.  It’s no surprise that USA Today recently named the Duquesne Incline as one of the 10 great streetcars, trams and funiculars. If you can organize a group of 10 or more, I definitely recommend that you request a tour by contacting Tom Reinheimer to schedule.

    Before You Go:  The Duquesne Incline runs every day (even Thanksgiving!) and stops only for electrical storms because of concerns related to a power surge.  Note that the Duquesne Incline accepts only cash and requires exact change.  There is an ATM available at the upper station.  You can request free tours for any group larger than 10, including school groups and Cub Scout groups (check out their Patch Program) through the Incline’s website.

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  • Los Angeles With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Los Angeles With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Los Angeles has so many great attractions for kids – even if Disneyland is not on your itinerary.  During my recent trip to L.A. with my mom and son, we had only two days in the city.  Due to centrally located accommodation and easy transportation, we were able to maximize our time and fit in these fun family activities.

    #1:     Santa Monica Pier

    The Santa Monica Pier was my favorite spot in Los Angeles.  It may be because I’m a Midwesterner, but I try to find a way to make it to a beach anytime I travel near the ocean or sea.  In Santa Monica, the Pier adds a great deal of excitement to the otherwise typical Pacific beach.  The original pier opened in the early 20th century, and the amusement park followed a few years later.  The Santa Monica Pier Aquarium – Heal the Bay was just closing when we arrived, but we would have loved to check it out. Pacific Park, the amusement park, features the world’s first and only solar paneled ferris wheel and eleven other rides, including a roller coaster.  In a city known for Disneyland, it is notable that Pacific Park is the only admission-free amusement park in the city.  Pacific Park is free to enter, but you do pay for ride tickets.  I particularly loved how the bright colors of Pacific Park popped against the ocean and sky.  There is also a Carousel located in the Looff Hippodrome adjacent to the Pier that we somehow missed entirely.

    On our stroll down the pier, we passed musicians, artists, magicians, souvenir shops, carnival games and various food stalls.  My son was particularly intrigued by a magician doing tricks for a crowd and a painter who was painting the pier on a piece of slate.  The Santa Monica Pier was our last stop before our red-eye flight, and my son was itching to choose a memento of our trip to bring home with him.  I was proud that he picked a framed painting made by the local artisan painting on the Pier instead of some cheap trinket.

    As the sun began to set, we headed off the Pier and onto the beach.  There’s nothing quite like the feeling of sand between your toes and standing at the water’s edge while listening to the waves ebb and flow.  We really savored those moments as we waded into the Pacific.  I do wish I lived closer to a coast.

    After sunset, we washed and dried our feet and decided to eat dinner before heading back downtown.  We thoroughly enjoyed our last meal of the trip at Del Frisco’s Grille, located right across from the Pier’s entrance.  We dined in their enclosed patio during Game 3 of the World Series.  We are Clevelanders who watched the Indians’ epic season and hoped that we would be rooting for our team during the championship series.  So, we were somewhat invested despite our team’s early playoff departure.  When Los Angeles won the National League championship, I thought this trip would inspire my son to root for LA, but he chose to support the Astros instead.  He did learn the important lesson while watching the Astros win two World Series games during our trip that if you are watching a sporting event in public and not supporting the home team, it’s polite to cheer quietly.  He had a great time watching the game on the flat screen television while eating his hand-shaved prime steak sandwich.

    We loved Santa Monica and didn’t mind the crowds.  Families looking for quieter beaches should check out one of these great Los Angeles beaches for kids.

    #2:    The Getty Center

    Like going to beaches, visiting art museums and getting the best view around are both generally high on my list when traveling.  The Getty Center is definitely a can’t miss in my book because it offers a fantastic art collection and an amazing view.  As added bonuses, a funicular transports visitors between the parking area and the museum, and there is no admission fee.   The Getty Center is a campus of the J. Paul Getty Museum located in Brentwood and funded by the J. Paul Getty Trust, the world’s wealthiest art institution.

    We took an Uber to the museum and were dropped off at the rideshare drop off conveniently located next to the security line and funicular entrance.  We received a museum guide and daily schedule while waiting for the next car to take us up the hill to the museum.  I discovered that the daily impressionist tour was scheduled to begin in 15 minutes.  We were a bit tight on time and planned to head to the impressionist galleries anyway, so the tour was definitely a treat.  The docent was informative and interesting as she directed us through the impressionist galleries, and the tour culminated with Vincent Van Gogh’s Irises, one of the Getty’s most notable paintings.

    Van Gogh’s Irises

    The Getty Center was designed by Richard Meier and completed in 1997.  It is known for its modern architecture and use of travertine and stunning outdoor gardens where the plants double as sculptures.  The Central Gardens, designed by Robert Irwin, contain over 500 plant varieties that visitors enjoy while strolling on a tree-lined walkway.  As you weave your way to the central pond, you pass a stream bubbling alongside the path.  Irwin’s statement, “Always changing, never twice the same” is carved into the floor to remind visitors of the evolving art.

    Resemblance to Mickey Mouse – intended or coincidental?

    The beautiful cactus garden was placed on the edge of the ridge with sunlight all day long.

    My son enjoyed the impressionist tour (particularly the Monet and Van Gogh paintings), the gardens and the view.  He also found the phone charging station, which were located back by the restrooms near the main lobby, particularly fascinating.  The Phone Charger worked like a hotel room safe.  You connect your phone to the proper charger inside the box, close the door and enter a four digit code to lock the door.  At anytime, you can access your phone by entering your code.  It is obviously a genius invention, and we can’t wait until they are more common.  The Getty Center really has thought of everything to impress its visitors.

    There is no Metro stop near the museum, so travel to or from the Getty during rush hour can be challenging, and the Uber timing estimates can be very inaccurate.  It took our driver about an hour to drive to the pick up point initially estimated to be nine minutes away and then another hour to travel downtown, so we ended up downtown an hour later than Uber’s original estimate.

    #3:     La Brea Tar Pits & George C. Page Museum

    On the day we flew to LA, my son attended a field trip to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History specifically focusing on mastodons and mammoths. While we were discussing options for things to do on our trip, he literally lit up when he heard about the La Brea Tar Pits & Museum.  So, after our brief stop in Hollywood, we jumped into an Uber and headed to La Brea.   I called my husband from the car and asked him to sign us up for a family membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History as ours had expired a few months earlier.  Members of museums participating in the ASTC Travel Passport Program receive reciprocal entry to member science centers and museums all over the country, including the La Brea Tar Pits.  The email confirmation came before we made it to La Brea and was all we needed to gain free entry to the George C. Page Museum.

    The LaBrea Tar Pits are shallow pools of oil that coagulated into asphalt and trapped Ice Age animals.  The Tar Pits are registered as a National Natural Landmark, and over 3.5 million fossils have been found on the site, with excavation continuing year round at Project 23 and seasonally at Pit 91.

    We bought tickets to Titans of the Ice Age, the 25-minute 3D movie showing in the Museum’s theater.  The movie showed how Ice Age animals would get stuck and then preserved in the tar pits.  The computer-generated imagery and 3D effects really bring the animals to life and interestingly convey the history of Ice Age animals.

    My son was fascinated by the Fossil Lab where you can watch paleontologists working on specimens collected from Project 23.   With 10 minutes to spare before our showing of the movie began, he headed back to the Fossil Lab to watch.  One of the Museum’s very helpful docents identified the paleontologist with the mask as the head curator.

    After viewing the completed fossils, watching the movie and observing the Fossil Lab, my son had an opportunity to try separating fossils himself.  With all these great hands on opportunities, it’s not surprising that the stop at the La Brea Tar Pits & Museum was his favorite of our trip.

    After visiting the Museum and Site 23, we headed up Wilshire Boulevard and had a quick lunch at Johnnie’s New York Pizzeria, right next to the SAG-AFRA building (no celebrity sightings).  We did not have time for a leisurely lunch and were thrilled that we were able to get indoor table service of pizza slices (generally permitted only as take out during peak times) because the restaurant was not busy.  The pizza was very tasty.

    #4:     Hollywood

    We made a quick stop at the Hollywood and Highland entertainment complex.  The big excitement of this stop was that setup for the Latin American Music Awards occurring that evening at the Dolby Theatre, was ongoing.  Before kids, I used to regularly watch movies in the theaters when they were released and was a huge movie award show fan.  Now that my movie watching occurs through DVDs or Netflix months after the award show season is over, I don’t watch much of the awards shows but do try to catch at least a few minutes of the coverage of the celebrity arrivals in front of the Dolby Theatre.  So, it was a treat to see how it’s done – albeit with a purple carpet.

    My mom and I had fun walking down Hollywood Boulevard and looking at all the stars.  The motion picture camera, a radio microphone, a television set, a record or a theatrical mask symbols identify the celebrity’s genre.  My son repeated about 20 times, “Do you know who these people are?” and generally made me feel old.

    Purple carpet for the Latin American Music Awards

    We planned to stop at the Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (now known as the TCL Chinese Theatres) to see the concrete blocks with celebrities’ signatures, handprints and footprints of popular celebrities.  However, the area in front of the Theatre was completely blocked off due to a movie premiere.   It was definitely a busy Thursday in Hollywood.

    So, we headed over to the Hollywood and Highland Center to get a view of the Hollywood Sign in the Hollywood Hills.

    After taking a few obligatory pictures of the iconic Hollywood Sign, we saw a gelato vending machine.  So, I made this little guy’s day by giving this novel concept a try on his behalf.

    Before heading off for our next stop, we took a quick peak in Ripley’s Believe It or Not!  The entry fee was a bit steep, and we had other museums we wanted to see more, so we did not make it beyond the lobby.  However, the lobby provided a few minutes of fun entertainment and even a fortune reading by Zoltar.

    Where does the water come from?
    Fortune reading

    #5:     Walt Disney Concert Hall

    The Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic orchestra, is arguably the world’s most unique concert hall.  It was designed by Frank Gehry, an architect known for his use of corrugated steel and unexpected lines. Disney Hall opened in 2002, about one year after Gehry’s Case Western Reserve’s Weatherhead School of Management, which also utilized steel was completed.  I have been a fan since I saw a Gehry exhibit at the Guggenheim in 2001.

    My son plays the violin and often goes to Cleveland Orchestra performances in Severance Hall, a very different building just down the street from Gehry’s Weatherhead School of Management.  The Disney Hall offers guided and self-guided tours, and we opted for the self-guided tour due to time constraints.  We particularly enjoyed the spectacular gardens and many unique views of the building.

    Disney Hall definitely sticks out in the LA skyline

    I’ve heard that some larger conferences offer kids’ activities for older kids and hope this is a trend that catches on.  Being away from family is hard for working parents who need to travel for their jobs, and I was very lucky that my mom and son could join me on this trip.  They really had a fantastic days in Los Angeles and joining them on a few of their adventures made the trip so much more enjoyable for me, too.

    For information about accommodation and transportation options in Los Angeles, check out Los Angeles With Kids:  Tinseltown Logistics and our entire series on Los Angeles with kids.

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  • Los Angeles With Kids: Tinseltown Logistics

    Los Angeles With Kids: Tinseltown Logistics

    Los Angeles has much more to offer tourists than just Hollywood and Rodeo Drive shopping.  It’s a wonderful city on the Pacific Ocean filled with art, history and culture, and we definitely recommend visiting Los Angeles with kids.

    The last time I was in Southern California was my post-bar exam cross-country road trip 15 years ago, so I was thrilled when a conference I regularly attend was scheduled at the Millennium Biltmore.  As I started making travel arrangements, I convinced my mom to join me.  Because my dad isn’t a fan of big cities or flying, my mom’s opportunities to visit major metropolitan cities over the past 20 years generally involve travel with me.  We’ve visited Atlanta, San Francisco, New York City, Boston and also driven from Northern California to Ohio together.  She was hesitant at first to fly all the way to California for only two days, but she ended up having such a wonderful trip that she wondered how she could have ever questioned coming along.

    Traveling to Los Angeles With Kids

    I found direct, round trip flights with perfect timings on Spirit Airlines for the amazing price of $108 each.  We’ve flown Spirit several times with great experiences.  As is typical for many budget airlines, Spirit allows each passenger to bring one personal item that is the size of a regular backpack for free, but there are significant charges for larger carry-ons or checked luggage, especially if you are not a member of their $9 Fare Club (which actually costs $59.95 annually).  Because I needed to bring conference attire and several pairs of shoes, I had to add-on a carry-on that cost an extra $70.  But, even at $179, the cross-country flight was very reasonable.

    Because the flight was so inexpensive, I decided at the time of booking to bring my nine-year-old son along as well.  I thought that this trip to Los Angeles would be an amazing experience for him – even though it meant missing two days of school. As a mom of three, it is rare to get some one-on-one time with any of my kids, especially while traveling.  So, I was pretty excited about this special trip with him as well.  My mom was already on board, so he would be in good hands while I was attending conference activities.  Not surprisingly, he was ecstatic to learn that he would be joining us.

    Accommodation in Los Angeles With Kids

    The Millennium Biltmore is a historic-cultural landmark that is located in the financial district downtown and opened in 1923.  The lobby, bar and main concourse are magnificently decorated with old-world charm.  Our room was spacious and updated.  Like many historic hotels, the bathroom was small but more functional than many others we have seen.  We didn’t have a chance to use the Roman-style pool or gym during our short stay but definitely would if we had more time.  We found the concierges and hotel staff extremely helpful and attentive and would highly recommend this hotel.

    Local Transportation in Los Angeles With Kids

    The Metro in Los Angeles is one of the newest in the world and still very much under construction.  The Metro currently consists of six lines that opened between 1990 and 2012, and further construction is ongoing.  We understand that the Purple Line Extension will reach the La Brea Tar Pits in 2023.

    Nancy grew up in LA and has never used the Metro and claims she never will.  I was intrigued about this idea of a Metro that native Angelenos would refuse to use.  The guidebooks I consulted were not very helpful in identifying where the Metro would be most helpful.  During a day of texting about LA transportation options before our trip, Nancy pretty much dared me to ride the Metro, and so, I knew I had to at least once.   With the help of the Millennium Biltmore hotel concierge, we learned that the Pershing Square Metro stop for the underground Red Line that went directly to Hollywood/Highland was only a short walk from the hotel.  So, we decided that this was our opportunity to try the Metro.

    It turns out that while the Metro may have limited routes, it is a great way to get from downtown to Hollywood.  We each purchased our Transportation Access Pass (“TAP”) cards for $1 each at a vending machine right inside the station.  A one-way Metro fare is only $1.75 for adults, and $1 for K-12 children (although honestly, I never saw this K-12 fare as an option in the vending machine and paid $1.75 for each of my son’s fares).  The senior rate fare for my mom was $.75 during peak times and $.35 during off-peak times.  An all day pass for the Metro and buses cost $7.  Because I was not sure whether we would take more than one trip, we only added a one-way fare on each TAP card.  After securing and loading our TAP cards, we proceeded to the platform and waited only a few minutes for our train.

    Metro vending machine inside the Pershing Street station

    The Metro station and car were both clean.  It was easy to use the Metro map and follow the well-marked signs.  The seats reminded me of those on London’s Underground.  While the car was crowded when we boarded, we were all able to sit by the time we reached the next station.  Each stop was announced over a speaker system, and we arrived at Hollywood/Highland in less than 20 minutes.  As we exited the station, we found ourselves right next to the Dolby Theater in the middle of Hollywood Boulevard.

    Our Metro experience was so pleasant that we took it to Santa Monica after my conference was over the next afternoon.  Because rush hour had begun, the Uber fare to Santa Monica at the time averaged between $50-$60 each way, and our combined Metro fare ran under $10 for the round trip.  Our trip on the Metro Expo Line took about 45 minutes with no loss of time for traffic.  Most of the ride was above ground, so we enjoyed the cityscapes during our journey and even caught a glimpse of the Hollywood sign.  Taking the Metro Expo Line back downtown after dinner was a no-brainer.

    My mom and son used the DASH bus to travel from our hotel to the Disney Concert Hall and report that it was also fast and efficient.  Cash fare for these local bus routes are $.50 each ride.  Other than our trips to Hollywood, Santa Monica and the Disney Concert Hall, we traveled by Uber.  Except during rush hour, Uber is a very fast, efficient and relatively inexpensive way to travel in Los Angeles.  We found that the cost of an Uber was often less than or equal to the cost of parking.  Trips between LAX and Los Angeles and from one attraction to another generally cost between $11 and $27.

    Our only Uber challenge was when we were trying to get from the Getty Center back downtown at 4:00.  Rush hour is serious business in LA and starts earlier than you expect.  The Uber time estimates were woefully inaccurate.  It took our driver over an hour to drive what was initially estimated to be nine minutes and then our journey downtown was another hour.  If I were to do this again, I would definitely have an Uber take me to the Sepulveda Station of the Metro Expo Line and then take the Metro back downtown.

    If you are not renting a car in Los Angeles, it is pretty much essential to be prepared to use either Uber or Lyft.  If you are new to Uber, you can use the code “catherined4256ue” for $5 off each of your first four rides, and I’ll get a $5 credit after you take your first ride.

    With the crazy traffic and under-utilized Metro, it is no surprise that there is a definite car obsession in Los Angeles.  My son has recently become interested in identifying sports and luxury cars on the road and was in absolute heaven looking out his window on the streets of Los Angeles.  Viewing the cars valet parked at the Millennium Biltmore was a particular treat as he counted Rolls Royces, Porsches and Lamborghinis.

    Find Out More About Los Angeles With Kids

    Check out Five Fun Family Activities in Los Angeles and our entire series on visiting Los Angeles with kids.

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  • Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Barcelona is Spain’s “second city” and a mesmerizing blend of Gothic and Modernism styles.  In contrast with the Gothic Quarter, many of Barcelona’s monuments were brilliantly designed by master architect, Antoni Gaudi, who is best known for Catalan Modernism.  As the capital of Catalonia, this vibrant and beautiful city has unique language, history and culture and was an amazing city to explore for a few days with our infant son.

    We traveled to Barcelona as a side trip from London, where we had been visiting family.  My husband and I chose Barcelona because neither of us had been to Spain or visited the Mediterranean.  Barcelona was particularly alluring because of its distinctive architecture, particularly Sagrada Familia. Because there are always a plethora of flight deals to major European cities from London, we were able to book a flight and hotel package through lastminute.com.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in Barcelona with kids.

    Accommodations in Barcelona

    We stayed for three nights at the Hotel Villa Emilia, a boutique hotel with modern touches.  Hotel Villa Emilia is located just outside the city center in Barcelona’s most famous residential neighborhood, the Eixample.  The Eixample is a late 19th century development that means “the expansion” in Catalan.  We loved the quieter, residential atmosphere of this upscale area and didn’t mind that we needed to jump on the nearby Metro for a stop or two to get to the main tourist areas.

    Eating in Barcelona

    The thing to remember about traveling to Barcelona with kids is that everyone eats dinner late.  Dinner before 8 pm is challenging, at best.  Most restaurants do not start serving dinner before 9 pm, and 10 pm is definitely more of the typical dinner time.  Before dinner, many people enjoy tapas – small savory plates served with drinks – at bars.   Our newborn rarely slept for more than a few hours at a time, so even though he did not have a “bedtime”, my husband and I were definitely sleep-deprived and ate at Chinese restaurants two nights of our trip simply because that was all we could find open early.

    While evening dining may have challenges if you are traveling with kids, we had several amazing fixed price lunches that were delicious and extremely reasonable. Our favorite was 4Gats, a historic restaurant meaning “four cats” that Picasso frequented around 1900.  My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous fixed-price lunch that included a bottle of wine.  Our son enjoyed a “cat nap” in his stroller while we ate.

    Transportation in Barcelona

    We mostly traveled by the Metro, which is one of Europe’s best.  It was fast and efficient but not built to be stroller accessible.  We quickly became experts at handling the stroller with stairs and escalators – so much so that I have admittedly taken strollers on escalators in the US when there was not an obvious alternative – despite all those signs indicating not to do so.

    We saw bikes for rent all over the city, which have now become popular in the US as well, but at the time, it was pretty novel, and something we had never seen before.

    Language

    The official languages of Catalonia are both Spanish and Catalan.  It is surprising to learn that Catalan is the first language of most Barcelonans, and schools are required to conduct classes in Catalan.  However, all adults speak Spanish as well.  We have some limited Spanish skills but never had language barrier issues.  Everyone in the tourist industry spoke fluent English, and English menus were available in restaurants.

    Things to See in Barcelona

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (Holy Family Church) is Antoni Gaudi’s still unfinished masterpiece of Catalan Modernism architecture and the icon of Barcelona.  Sagrada Familia was never intended to serve as the seat of a bishop but definitely constructed in the scope and proportion typical of cathedrals and has been rated as the world’s most famous church.

    Francisco Paula de Villar was the initial architect when construction began in 1883.  Antoni Gaudi took over as architect in 1891 and worked on Sagrada Familia until his death in 1926.  Gaudi intended for Sagrada Familia to have a major impact on Barcelona’s skyline, and his masterpiece is one of the tallest religious buildings in the world with 18 spires planned to represent the 12 Apostles, Mary, the four Evangelists and Jesus (the tallest).

    Sagrada Familia is dedicated to the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary and Jesus.  There are three façades – the Nativity Façade that depicts the birth of Jesus, and the Passion Façade that shows the crucifixion of Jesus have been completed.  The Glory Façade, which will show the path to God, has not yet been completed.

    The Nativity Façade was the only part of Sagrada Familia completed during Gaudi’s life.  The Passion Façade was built according to Gaudi’s design, but does seem to vary in style from the original façade.  The only part of the church that was completed while Gaudi was alive is the Nativity Façade.  So, while Gaudi gets all the glory for this masterpiece, most of the church was actually designed by others.

    Nativity Façade
    Nativity Façade Detail
    Passion Façade

    While we did not purchase tickets in advance, it is highly recommended now that you buy your tickets online with a specific entry time to avoid the long lines.  We entered through the Nativity Façade, which will be a side entrance after the Glory Façade is completed.  Construction was very much ongoing on both the interior and exterior when we visited.  It is very common for cathedrals and monuments to require restoration work, and scaffolding has obscured the perfect picture of many cathedrals I’ve visited over the years.  However, it is quite exciting to witness the initial construction of a historic monument.  The only other time I had a similar experience was when I visited the Crazy Horse Memorial in 2002 and got to witness a rare blast first-hand.  I am always fascinated to see the progress of both monuments.

    The interior was very much under construction during our visit

    The colors of the stained glass are so brilliant and interesting.

    Modern technology and the funds from entrance fees have drastically helped construction.  The main nave was completed a few years after our visit, and the Pope held a consecration Mass in 2010.  The goal is to complete construction by 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death, but estimates show that it is likely to take a few years longer than that.

    I have visited literally dozens of cathedrals around Europe, but Sagrada Familia is truly distinctive.  It is really surreal to visit this vast and awe-inspiring church.  After the York Minster, which will forever hold a special place in my heart, it is probably my second favorite church in the world and definitely one not to miss.  After our tour, we relaxed at a nearby park  to enjoy the view of the completed spires away from the crowds.

    La Rambla

    La Rambla is a colorful, tree-lined pedestrian mall between Plaça de Catalunya and Port Vell, is one of the most popular tourist destinations.  There are lots of shops and baskers lining the road, which was once under water.

    La Boqueria Market (Mercat de Sant Josep) is Barcelona’s food market located just off La Rambla.  It is also known as Mercat de Sant Joseph and is visually stunning.  since 1200, main entry is beautiful.  The market is colorful and visually stunning.  Because the stands near the front pay the highest rent, they also have the highest prices.

    The Columbus Monument is the 200 foot column honoring Christopher Columbus at the end of La Rambla.  This monument recognizes Columbus’ journey to Barcelona to report to Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand V after returning from North America in 1493.  The style of this pedestal, column and statue reminded me of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, which we also visited on this European vacation.

    Columbus Statue on the Top of the Monument
    View of the Columbus Monument from the Barcelona Cathedral

    Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic)

    The Gothic Quarter is the center of the old city with narrow, cobblestone streets.  These pedestrian-only streets are the perfect location for an afternoon stroll.  Picasso lived in this neighborhood around the turn of the 20th century.

    Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia/Barcelona Cathedral

    The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed between 1298 and 1450.  However, the front façade was ornately recreated around the turn of the 20th century to add an interesting blend of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture.  This Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona who was martyred here in the fourth century.  We enjoyed the view from the Cathedral’s roof, which is widely known for gargoyles.

    Church of Santa Maria del Mar is a 14th century Catalan Gothic church whose name means meaning “Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea”.

    Beaches

    We were not prepared with beach gear on this trip but did stop by at a beach briefly so that all three of us could dip our toes in the Mediterranean Sea.  Beaches are so close to the city center and well-loved by the locals.  Hop off the Metro, and you feel like you have arrived at a resort!

    Tibidabo

    We often go to the highest point of a city we are visiting to get the bird’s-eye view of an area.  So, we took a ride on the Tibidabo Funicular to the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  The view of the Tibidabo Amusement Park and the city was definitely worth the trip.  The Tibidabo Amusement Park opened in 1889, but many of the rides are originals with unparalleled scenery.  It was our son’s first amusement park and something definitely to add to your list if you are traveling with kids.

    View of Tibidabo Amusement Park and Barcelona from the summit of Mount Tibidabo
    Amusement park in the sky

     

    The Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor (Expiatory Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus) stands on the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  It was completed in 1961 in the neo-Gothic style with a statue of Jesus on top of the central spire.

    Why visit Barcelona With Kids?

    I was more nervous about this trip than any others because it was our first time abroad as parents.  Nonetheless, our infant son was a great travel companion during the four spectacular days we spent in Barcelona.  My son was exclusively nursed at the time, and we were pleasantly surprised that nursing in public was much more common-place and accepted than is was in the US at the time.  So many people on the streets stopped us to inquire about our son, often utilizing limited English skills or hand gestures to communicate with us.  There may have been occasional stroller challenges on the cobblestone streets, but nothing too challenging for us to overcome for families with young ones.

    Next time we go, we definitely won’t miss the Picasso Museum.  I have no idea why we didn’t put this on our list and wonder if we avoided it as newbie parents simply because we were traveling with our infant.  Now, I firmly believe that kids of any age are not too young for the art museum.

    Our son may have no memories of the trip, but FC Barcelona is his favorite soccer team.  Mere coincidence?

  • A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    Our family spent three days exploring Kerala during our trip to India last year.  We spent most of our time in India visiting relatives in Bangalore but spent one long weekend in “God’s Own Country,” which is a favorite holiday destination for Prince Charles and Camilla.  Located in South India along the Arabian Sea, Kerala has been known for exporting spices such as pepper, cardamom, turmeric, cloves and ginger for at least five thousand years.  It is baffling to think of a single region known for one trade for that long and no surprise that the food is glorious.  Literally, every bite of every meal was perfection, and we loved visiting Kerala with kids.

    Why Kerala With Kids?

    We were most excited about houseboat tours through the backwaters, which are the most popular tourist attraction of the area.   These boats, traditionally called kettuvallams were originally used to transport rice and occasionally as living quarters for royalty.  The boats have more recently been converted to accommodate tourists for day and overnight leisure trips, complete with a staff to drive the boat and prepare meals.  We were also drawn to the area’s Portuguese influence.  The spice trade brought Portuguese traders to Kerala in the 15th century and paved the way for the Portuguese colonization of the area.  As a result of the Portuguese influence, Christians in Kerala comprise almost 20% of the population, compared with a mere 2.3% in the entire Indian population.

    Visiting Kerala With Kids

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the outside of India.  Arrangements for our flights, hotels, driver and houseboat tour were all made locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept electronic payment and make advance bookings for foreigners.

    Transportation in Kerala With Kids

    We hired a driver named Kiran who picked us up at the airport in Cochin (also known as Kochi) in a specially requested six-passenger vehicle and stayed with us for three days while we explored Kumarakom, Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha) and Cochin.   A private driver may seem like a major indulgence – especially on the smaller, more rural roads, but it was really a necessity on this type of trip.

    Kiran not only transported us safely from place to place but also served as our guide.  He pointed out local sights, flora, cashew nuts trees, roadside coconut stands, jewelry emporiums and even a local temple elephant.  He did not quite understand my need to take the boys to the Arabian Sea, but he took us to the beach nonetheless.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with Kiran, who tailored our trip according to our preferences and made sure we did not miss the very best parts of Kerala.

    Kerala roadside
    Kerala’s greens and blues
    It’s not every day you see an elephant, but Kiran knew just where to find this one
    Fresh coconut water is divine

    Kumarakom and Alleppey 

    Accommodation in Kumarakom With Kids

    We spent two nights at the spectacular Vivanta by Taj – Kumarakom and absolutely loved the property.  This lakeside retreat featured luxury rooms, a private lagoon, boats, bikes, a playground and even bunnies.  The guest rooms were separate cottages situated around the lagoon, so we needed to walk through the beautifully manicured grounds to reach it.  Our room had a wonderful view of the pool, which we had to ourselves the entire stay.  Except for our houseboat excursion, we ate all our meals at the resort and generally enjoyed the activities provided by the resort, evening entertainment and scenery.

    Lagoon
    View of sunset over the lake from the resort
    Duck, duck, goose?
    Breakfast
    Pool fun

    Alleppey Houseboat Tour With Kids

    Most people travel to Alleppey to tour the backwaters on a houseboat.   Day or overnight trips are available, and we booked a five-hour tour through Lakelands Cruise.  There are a wide variety of boats, ranging from pretty basic boats to those tricked out with satellite receivers and air conditioning.   Each boat is staffed with a captain to steer and a chef who prepares traditional Keralite meals.  Even though every meal we ate in Kerala was superb, our lunch on the boat was the absolute best.

    Our boat had covered deck with a large chaise lounge swing and dining table at the front of the boat, an air-conditioned bedroom with an attached bath in the middle and a kitchen at the back.  The front was definitely not baby-proof, so we had to be careful not to let our daughter near the low railings.  I spent most of my time onboard lounging on the swing with our daughter relaxing on my lap.  We also retreated to the enclosed bedroom a few times so that she could run around.

    View out the front of the boat
    A chaise lounge swing is an amazing spot for a nap
    Another houseboat similar to ours

    While traveling the backwaters on a houseboat is pretty amazing in itself, the real excitement for us was really getting a chance to glimpse into the lives of some of the villagers who live on or near the water.  There was constant activity on the river banks as the villagers went about their lives.  We saw many locals bathing, washing clothes and utensils in the water.  For who definitely take modern plumbing for granted, watching people wash in the river is the first thing both boys remembered about this excursion.

    Washing in the river
    Washing dishes
    Doing laundry

    We also saw workers on the rice fields, children walking to or from school, people boating in the river and riding their bikes along the banks.  When we docked by a rice field, the boys got to explore the riverbank, examine the rice plants and see the various states of processing the crop goes through before rice makes it to the plate.

    Paddy field workers
    Coming home from school
    Boat transport
    Biking
    Rice

    In this region, many men wore a traditional wrap cotton sarong called a mundu.  Mundus are usually white or cream with a simple border and are worn folded by laborers and as a symbol of masculinity.  With very high temperatures while we were there, it is also a very practical attire.

    Mundu

    We also saw some beautiful birds along the river, including cranes, egrets and kingfisher birds.

    So many beautiful birds

    I admit that I thought five hours was going to be way too long to spend on the houseboat with three young kids.  At the beginning of the trip, I worried it might be an exhausting day wrangling our daughter.  Luckily, she was very happy to sit with me on the swing and thoroughly enjoyed the excursion.  I found myself more and more relaxed throughout the day and thought we could have enjoyed another hour or two when we docked. Nevertheless, I was glad that we chose not to spend the night on the houseboat with young kids and much preferred our overnight accommodations at the Taj, which were far more luxurious.

    Alleppey Beach With Kids

    On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Alleppey Beach .  I really wanted the kids to have a chance to see the Arabian Sea.  They really do love beaches and not so surprisingly, they needed to dip their toes in the water.  Alleppey is known more for its backwaters than its beach, and this one was almost empty during our visit.

    Dipping their toes in the Arabian Sea

    Cochin

    Accommodation in Cochin With Kids

    After our second night in Kumarakom, we headed back to Cochin along the Malabar Coast.  We stayed at the Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, an exceptional hotel on the harbor.  The highlight of the room for the kids was glass walled bathroom with a privacy blind that raised and lowered electronically with a switch, but they also enjoyed the view from or room.   We had a scrumptious dinner and breakfast at the hotel.  Although, after a busy few days, all three kids fell asleep before dinner was over (a first!).  The outdoor grounds of the hotel were lovely, and our son enjoyed a swim in the pool in the morning.

    View of the harbor from our room
    So sleepy
    Fun elephant sculpture
    The grounds were beautifully manicured
    View of the Arabian Sea from the pool

    Fort Cochin With Kids

    Before colonization, Cochin was a fishing village.  The major tourist attraction of the area are the Chinese fishing nets, which are located at the Cochin Beach and symbolize the history and culture of the region.  These nets were erected in the area starting in the 13th or 14th century and each operated by about six fishermen.  While they have been replaced by modern fishing techniques, they are open for tourists to experience first-hand. Local fisherman are even happy to allow tourists to raise and lower the nets.  My kids absolutely loved our hands on experience pulling up the net.   We visited Cochin beach in the evening and were treated to a beautiful sunset as we wandered through the nearby fish market.

    Chinese fishing nets
    Counterweights
    Helping out

    The nearby farmers’ market offered fresh catch, mostly from boats rather than the nets.  We enjoyed souvenir shopping at the stalls nearby.

    St Francis Church was the first European church built in India.  After his death, Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years until his remains were returned to Portugal.

    St. Francis Church

    Inside St. Francis
    Biking is such a common mode of transportation that the church yard is full of them

    We also enjoyed a Kalripayattu martial arts performance and were the only members of the audience.  Kalripayattu techniques include combinations of steps and postures and use a variety of swords and blades.  At the end of the show, the boys got a chance to participate with the performers.

    The performers’ strength was amazing

    We had a luxurious and truly spectacular vacation in Kerala.  Although we enjoyed seeing the tourist sights, I hope to spend more time relaxing at the beautiful resorts next time we visit.

    Planning a trip to India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Bangalore.

  • Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Bangalore may be known more as an IT mecca than for tourism, but this “Garden City of India” is a great place to experience India. With a population of 8.4 million, it is the country’s third largest city and the capital of Karnataka.  We spent two weeks visiting family in Bangalore when our kids were 20 months, 5 and 8 and had an unforgettable trip.  We can’t wait to return to Bangalore with kids.

    When I first traveled to Bangalore over the 2007 New Year, I saw no more than three other blondes during our five-day visit.  That trip was the first time that I had ever been a minority.  I definitely attracted attention and a fair number of double-takes, but no one ever approached me on the street.  Minorities in the US have historically been treated with suspicion or viewed negatively, but that was definitely not my experience in India.  Indians seemed to be merely intrigued or interested in my uniqueness but not viewed in a negative light.  I was clearly identified as a tourist and constantly encouraged to enter stores.  When we visited again in 2016 with our three kids, we saw far more tourists in Bangalore and “blended in” a bit more.  Here are our favorite five family activities for visits to Bangalore with kids:

    #1:  Eating Out in Bangalore With Kids

    We ate like royalty in India.  Our family’s favorite cuisine is Indian, and all of our kids enjoy some spice in their food. With many meals, my husband and I enjoyed Kingfisher, the most popular Indian beer.  Kingfisher is available in the US, but only a version that is also manufactured in the States and does not taste like the Indian Kingfisher.

    Kingfisher, our favorite Indian beverage, complete with never-ending bubbles

    We ate lunch out daily and enjoyed some phenomenal restaurants, including:

    • Tandoor features palatial decor and traditional tandoori cooking and is located on MG Road.  The butter chicken, milai chicken and roti are our favorites  We loved Tandoor so much that we ate here twice.
    • Chutney Chang is a buffet offering Indian and Chinese dishes where we ate Easter lunch.  The buffet is so large that you have to do a quick preview before you start serving yourself.  And, save room for the delicious desserts.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the cotton candy.
    • Le Brassierie at Le Meridien was another unbelievable buffet where we dined for lunch on our last day in India.  La Brassierie’s buffet offers North Indian, South Indian, Japanese, Chinese and continental food.  When the server heard that we were celebrating our son’s birthday, they brought out an entire cake inscribed with Happy Birthday.  My little dimpled guy has never smiled so big.

    #2:  Bangalore’s Lalbagh Botanical Garden

    After a few hours in Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, it will be clear why Bangalore is known as the “Garden City” in this outdoor oasis located within a crowded city.  We hired a guide to take us around the gardens in an expanded golf cart and thoroughly enjoyed a few hours away from the hustle and bustle (and honking) of the city.

    We particularly enjoyed the 300 year old silk cotton tree, bird watching and generally exploring the foliage.

    #3:  Shopping in Bangalore With Kids

    Shopping was one of our favorite activities in Bangalore.  Almost everything available in India is offered at a fraction of the price you would find in the US.  Additionally, handicrafts made in India and jewelry are so much more unique and interesting.  We made a number of purchases, including a tailor-made suit made to measure for my older son’s First Communion, prescription glasses, jewelry, shoes and clothes.  While I never had trouble with substandard products, shopping at a government emporium is a good way to ensure quality at a reasonable price.

    Some of our favorite shopping areas include:

    • Brigade Road/Mahatma Gandhi Road (aka MG Road) is a popular tourist shopping area with a wide variety of popular international stores including Nike and Adidas.  Both Brigade Road and MG Road are very busy streets, and you have to be careful when crossing, but there are sufficient sidewalks for pedestrians.  Make sure to cross when the locals do.  There are often stalls set up on MG Road, and we purchased belts personally fit to each of us and a Panama hat for our younger son at one of these stalls.  Bargaining at all stores except emporiums and international chain stores is common.  Fast food chains McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Dominos are all available, but we definitely did not waste any of our meals on fast food and didn’t choose “Western food” once.
      • Cauvery Emporium at the intersection of Brigade and MG Road is a can’t miss for authentic handicrafts, including textiles and sandalwood and rosewood products.
      • Cottage Industries Emporium is another government  emporium located a short drive away where we always find amazing Indian handicrafts.
      • PN RAO is a tailor that specializes in made to measure suits.  After picking out your material and pattern, your custom-made suit is ready for a first fitting about a week later.  We had a suit made for our eight-year old who was about to make his First Communion.

        Brigade Road at night
    Handcrafted wooden toys that you can sometimes see being made outside of Cauvery Emporium
    • Commercial Street is one of the oldest shopping areas in Bangalore.  It is extremely busy shopping street known for sale of clothes, shoes, jewelry and electronics.  Sidewalks are not consistently available, and the main street is shared by parked cars, moving cars and a fair share of pedestrians, so you need to use extra caution with kids here.  Soch (my favorite Indian clothes store) and Mex both have large stores here.  I was thrilled that Soch shortened my  kurti to my desired length for no additional charge and had it ready in about an hour.
    • The Forum in Koramangala was India’s first shopping mall development that includes five stories of shops and a multiplex movie theater and a food court.  Soch also has a store here.

    #4:  Religious Celebrations in Bangalore With Kids

    Spending Holy Week in Bangalore was a truly unique experience.  While Hinduism is the most common religion in India, there are almost 20 million Catholics.  My husband’s ancestors come from Goa and Mangalore, which are areas with large Catholic populations.  While some Indians were converted to Christianity at the time of Christ, most were converted during the Portuguese and British colonial periods.  In Goa, it was common for Indians to change their names to Christian names after conversion.  They often adopted the Portugese surname of the missionary who converted them.  As a result, there are about 50 very common Indian Catholic surnames.

    Holy Thursday and Good Friday services at our church at home are well attended but there are always plenty of seats.  If you arrive 20 minutes early on Easter Sunday, you are pretty much guaranteed a seat.  The services we attended in India gave “standing room only” a new meaning.  Multiple services are held almost hourly in different languages, and hundreds of chairs are set up outside with large screens live video streaming the Mass.  We arrived at least 30 minutes before each service began to park and then wait outside the doors for the prior service to finish.  As soon as the prior Mass ended, people would rush in to find a seat.  Everyone was dressed up and reverent and patient with the large crowds.

    Easter 2016 coincided with Holi, a Hindu Spring festival known as the “festival of colors” that is popular with non-Hindus as well.  People cover each other with brilliant colors and spray each other with water guns and water balloons.  We enjoyed watching this joy-filled celebration.  We worried about the color getting in the kids’ eyes and didn’t participate in the bright celebration, but found a great list of tips for celebrating Holi in India.

    Waiting for Mass
    Throwing color to celebrate Holi

    #5:  Sporting Events in Bangalore With Kids

    With two boys, sporting events are always high on their list.  Our trip occurred during the 2016 ICC World Twenty20 cricket tournament, and we watched cricked almost every night.  It was amazing to see my boys fall in love with the sport that their dad grew up with.  Cricket is an extremely complicated game, but they started picking up the rules and the lingo.  My husband purchased tickets to a match held in Bangalore between West Indies and Sri Lanka, and the boys couldn’t wait.  Unfortunately, our oldest spiked a  high fever on the day after we arrived in India, which was the day of match and was crushed to watch from home while his brother had an experience of a lifetime.  West Indies went on to win the tournament in a heart wrenching game against England.  Admittedly, even I enjoyed watching that.

    The boys also had unique experiences playing soccer in the school yard of their dad’s school, St. Joseph’s.

    Our older son also played soccer every night he could with neighbor children in the complex we stayed in.  His brother opted for swimming in the pool where he made a few friends himself and taught himself to swim during our stay.

    We were lucky to have about two weeks in Bangalore and explore at a slow pace.  To make the most of a short visit, check out this ultimate Bangalore itinerary.

    While both boys note that visiting family was the best part of our time in Bangalore, we really enjoyed exploring the city, which was so different than our everyday lives.  Visiting India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Kerala.

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  • India With Kids

    India With Kids

    India is an amazing country for kids to experience.  Our trip to Bangalore and Kerala in March 2016 was our children’s first taste of South Asia and really opened their eyes to the beautiful country their dad called home when he was a child.  In India, they saw two extremes – the luxurious lifestyles of a portion of the population and the challenges of a developing country.  Our most memorable experiences of the trip included countless amazing meals, fabulous shopping, unparalleled street chaos (vehicles, people and stray animals sharing the road) and some luxurious relaxation in Kerala.

    Planning

    My husband and I had previously traveled together to India over the Christmas holidays in 2006.  Our trip included stops in Goa, Mangalore, Bangalore and Bombay, but we knew that we wanted to limit our internal travel on our first trip with kids.  We chose to spend the majority of our time in Bangalore visiting my husband’s family and make only one side-trip to Kerala during our 16 days there.

    We traveled when our youngest was a full-fledged toddler of 20 months but could still qualify as a lap-child, which is how she would travel even if we bought her a seat.  Because we were staying mostly with family, our trip planning for the Bangalore portion required only booking flights.  With the long journey to get to India, we decided to extend our sons’ spring break by a week to minimize school absences.  About five months before our trip, we booked flights from Cleveland to Bangalore on Qatar Airways with stopovers in Boston and Doha.

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the US.  Mark’s uncle was able to help us book our Kerala trip locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept bookings from outside of India.  Nancy also has friends who have highly recommend Tours By Locals to arrange guides.

    Prior to our departure, we secured e-visas.   We traveled on 60-day e-tourist visas but had to apply during a specific window and complete final processing at the Bangalore Airport upon arrival.  It was a bit of an added hassle to our middle of the night arrival, but far less expensive than the one-year visa.  This option made sense for us because we did not expect a return trip in the near future.

    We also made got the necessary vaccines, which include typhoid and Hepatitis A.  Because there was minimal malaria risk in Bangalore and Kerala during the time of our trip, we did not have to take precautionary malaria medicine.  This was a huge relief because all anti-malaria medication have pretty scary side effects.  We carried bug sprays and wipes because the selection and availability of both are limited in India but were glad not to need them.

    Packing

    Because there was no fee for checked baggage, and I was not completely sure what items might be easy to find in India, I packed substantially more than usual.  However, next time we go to India, I’ll bring far less knowing that we are certain to purchase clothes and likely even shoes after we arrive.  Also, it’s important to check the expected temperature, as some seasons can be very hot in India.  It was unseasonably warm during our stay, so the skinny jeans I packed were really of no use.  I recommend packing light-weight clothes.  As always, I traveled with some children’s ibuprofen and adult pain and cold medication even though we knew that medicine was readily available in pharmacies at a fraction of their US cost (e.g. a bottle of children’s ibuprofen cost about $.30). Diapers are probably available, but I would recommend bringing them as well.

    Getting There

    I was worried about how the kids would survive the 30-hour trip from Cleveland to Bangalore.  Before our departure, we learned that the Boston-Doha route we booked was starting service on the day before our departure and featured the United States’ second Airbus 350.  As soon as I stepped on board, I knew that the Airbus 350 was a special aircraft.  It was absolutely beautiful with décor and lighting that reminded me of a night club.  The in-seat entertainment was unparalleled.  All the Academy Award nominated films that I had not had a chance to watch were available even before their DVD releases.  The electronic components were cleverly stored under the floor so that valuable under seat leg room was not sacrificed in the process.  Also, the plane was mostly empty, so my husband and each of my boys took a row of three seats for themselves to sleep, and my daughter and I shared another row.  This allowed us the luxury to get semi-decent sleep for about seven hours of the 12-hour flight.  The Airbus 350 is the way to travel – especially on a long flight when traveling in coach with a toddler virtually connected to you.  When we stepped off, we were sad that we would not be traveling home on this exact plane.

    Airbus 350

    Qatar Airlines ran promotional videos about Doha on all flights and offers complimentary city tours.  Doha definitely looked like a city we would like to visit one day, and we definitely hope to return to Qatar with kids.  However, our itinerary did not permit us to leave the airport.  My oldest son did play a little violin in the airport during our layover for the novelty of playing violin in Qatar.

    Transportation

    India is definitely a challenging travel destination logistically – with or without kids.  If you are traveling to India without local family, you need to make sure to hire a recommended driver and guide for every day that you are there.  This may seem like an extravagance, but it is relatively inexpensive (we paid a driver with a car about $20 for eight hours).  While we often traveled by uber and even auto with no issues, my husband was very familiar with the city, and his uncle always took the precaution of watching our driver’s route from pickup to drop off.

    Traffic is pretty chaotic in Indian cities and watching the other travelers on the road is truly an experience.  The vehicles, people, animals and signs you see and non-stop honking you hear are all so different from anything you see in the West.  Cows were a common fixture along the side of the road, and we once even saw an elephant.  It’s a good thing that it was so interesting to watch because even traveling a few miles can take quite a long time in crowded cities.  Also, car seats are virtually unheard of, and cars are not equipped with self-retracting belts or any kind of LATCH/Isofix system to make them really usable.  Luckily, cars, motorcycles, autos and bikes travel at low speeds. At least, that’s what I kept telling myself.

     

    Common street scene

     

    It’s not everyday you see an elephant walking on the side of the road

    Accommodation

    We were fortunate that we were able to mostly stay with family.  If you are not visiting family or friends, it is advisable to book higher-end or recommended hotels, and 4.5-5 star hotels are generally available for $100-$150/night.  We thoroughly enjoyed staying at Taj hotels during our trip to Kerala and had a wonderful buffet lunch at the stunning Leela Palace.

    Leela Palace in Bangalore

    Shopping

    Shopping in India is pretty amazing.  Most items are a fraction of the cost that you would find them in the US.  On our first trip to India before kids, we bought so much that we had to purchase a suitcase to bring all the items back with us.  We purchased several bedspreads, a rug, two side tables (which came apart and fit in our luggage), a carved lamp, prescription glasses, some handicrafts and jewelry.  While I was there, I felt like I was buying too much jewelry.  But, I found that in the nine years between our visits that I rarely found pieces as interesting, unique and affordable in the US.  So, on our trip last year, I made sure to not limit myself and found several new pieces, which are now in heavy rotation.

    Not only are prices substantially lower in India, but service is amazing.  When we looked at jewelry in a store and returned a few days later, the salesman (or less commonly, the saleswoman) would pull out whatever pieces I expressed any interest in and place them on display as I reached the counter.  In home goods stores, someone would pull out every bedspread or rug that we looked at twice.

    So many options!
    Bedspread displayed for us

    Language Barrier

    Many people think that communication would be an issue in India.  However, Hindi and English are co-official languages.  There are 22 major languages spoken in India, and many Indians speak their local language at home, but Hindi and English are unifying languages.  In our experience, anyone in a service industry role spoke English.  The only times we needed to communicate with a non-English speaker occurred when we were riding in an auto.  My husband’s broken Hindi was all we needed to get to our desired destination.  The prevalence of English surprises many Americans but is an obvious result in a country that was largely a British colony for over 300 years.

    Kid Caution

    Many people asked if it was safe for our kids to travel to India and had specific concerns about healthcare, safe food and water.  If you do have a medical issue when traveling in India, first-rate healthcare is widely available and affordable.  The day we arrived, our son spiked a fever, which soared to 104 degrees the next day.  We were able to take him to an ER on a Sunday and have him examined by a pediatric doctor.  The doctor prescribed medicine and rest and prepared a folder filled with all the details of the examination and recommendations.  We were definitely satisfied by his care and shocked that the hospital fee was a mere $8 and prescribed medicines cost about $1 total at the pharmacy.  After this experience, it doesn’t surprise us that people travel to India from all over the world for medical procedures, including $1,800 heart surgery with outcomes among the world’s best.

    The tap water is absolutely not safe to drink, even when brushing your teeth.  Outside of our relatives’ homes where the water was specially filtered, we only drank sealed beverages.  While this seems odd at first, it is such a common request that servers typically bring sealed beverages to your table so that you are certain that no tampering could have occurred.  There is also a risk that raw fruit and vegetables may have been washed in tap water that can cause illness.  Luckily, the country’s specialties are all cooked food like curries, naan, dosas, biryani and samosas, and cooked vegetables are especially tasty.  We ate our way through India at well-known and higher end restaurants and had no food or water issues at all.

    Because my son contracted a bacterial infection from swallowing pool water in Mexico as a toddler, we were particularly careful with our daughter.  She only used one pool in Kerala, and I held her above the water the entire time she was in the pool.  We were also extra careful when bathing her.

    Because of risks related to food and vaccinations, India is not a recommended travel destination for young babies or women who are pregnant, nursing or planning to become pregnant.

    India with Kids?

    Our vacation in India was definitely more complicated than any of our other trips as a family, but I’ve never seen our boys have so many “aha moments.” Nothing quite compares to the moments they spent playing soccer with local boys in their dad’s school yard, dipping their toes into the Arabian Sea, relaxing on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala, learning to swim in their great aunt and uncle’s pool, riding in an auto, watching us negotiate with salespeople, operating a Chinese fishing net, attending Mass in a church that gave “standing room only” a new meaning and eating the most delicious meals of their life.  If you are aware of the risks and plan accordingly, India is an amazing family travel destination, and one you will definitely never forget.

    Check out Bangalore Highlights and Kerala Highlights.

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  • Fall Getaway: Visiting New England With Kids

    Fall Getaway: Visiting New England With Kids

    New England is a quintessential fall getaway destination and a great place to take kids.  The fall colors are brilliant and set against quaint towns.  Even though fall color can be pretty spectacular in Ohio, we made New England trips in October 2008 and October 2016 to enjoy New England fall.  My husband experienced fall for the first time when he lived in Connecticut for five years before we met and has so many fond memories of fall in New England that he wanted to share with our kids.  We love visiting New England – our favorite New England destinations are Amherst, Massachusetts, where my aunt and uncle live, and New Haven, Connecticut, where my husband attended Yale’s School of Management.

    The inherent planning problem with a fall foliage trip is that the timing and vibrance of fall colors varies from year to year and cannot be predicted in advance even if you consult a fall foliage map.  Our 2008 trip coincided with my husband’s business school reunion at the height of an especially vibrant fall color that year.  Our 2016 trip overlapped a school holiday and was a bit early for that season, which was never as vibrant as 2008.

    The trek to New England by car for us is at least eight hours and the longest car journey we have attempted as a family.  However, logistically, it is much easier to drive than fly, especially when we decided to add on stops in Princeton, New York City and Chautauqua in 2016.  To make it easier on everyone, we try to leave in the late afternoon so that the kids are sleeping for the last few hours.  That has worked for us with varying degrees of success.

    Amherst Area

    I have made a number of trips to the Amherst area over the years visiting my aunt and uncle who live nearby in Leverett.  Because our oldest was only eight months old during our 2008 trip to New England, we were excited to have the chance to take our two, six and eight year old kids to explore the their farm and the nearby area.  There are not a plethora of hotel options in the area, so we booked a room at the Howard Johnson’s, which was conveniently located as the closest hotel to their home.  We booked through Priceline for $90.  Although our stay was brief, we were pleasantly surprised by the hotel, which included a hot buffet breakfast that we were not aware of at the time we made the booking.  There are a number of fun activities for families in the Amherst-area to enjoy at any time of the year.

    Mount Sugarloaf

    I always enjoy going to the highest point in a city or region and getting a birds-eye view of the area.  Mount Sugarloaf in nearby South Deerfield is the perfect location for viewing the Connecticut River and fall foliage.  Because it is possible to drive to the summit, it is easily accessible for families even with young children.  Our trip there in 2008 had added excitement as we were there just a few days after the Mel Gibson movie Edge of Darkness had completed filming on site.  The observation tower had been temporarily renovated and had not yet been returned to its pre-filming state.

    View of the Connecticut River from Mount Sugarloaf

    Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory

    The Magic Wings Butterfly Conservatory & Gardens is a great place to take kids. Magic Wings includes a glass conservatory filled with absolutely beautiful butterflies.  If you keep still, one may even land on your hand.  In addition to the conservatory, there are a number of educational exhibits and an outdoor butterfly garden.

    Hiking

    There are also many opportunities for hiking.  My aunt and uncle suggested a family hike at Rattlesnake Gutter, which was a perfect location for us to hike with the kids.  It was mostly flat with a clear path and beautiful wooded scenery.  We found some of the best colors there and collected a few leaves to iron flat to preserve.  My daughter enjoyed the hike from the comfort of her carrier and even took a nap.

    Because we live in the suburbs, our kids loved the opportunity to spend a day outside hiking and exploring my aunt and uncle’s farm.  The pond had dried up after a dry summer, but we toured the barn and saw the cows that are kept on the property and just ran around and had fun.

    The Amherst area is a great place for families to visit.  Next time I go back, I want to check out the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art.  I think that my younger son, who is a big fan of Eric Carle and art in general, would particularly enjoy.

    New Haven

    Because my husband graduated from the Yale School of Management, a stop in New Haven is always on our agenda when we are in New England.  New Haven is conveniently located between Amherst and New York City, so we booked a night at the Omni New Haven Hotel through Priceline at a nightly rate of $164.  Although we arrived late and left early, we really enjoyed the Omni and the amazing view out of our window.  It was centrally-located and well-appointed.  The lobby is like a grand living room, and my boys played chess while waiting for us to check in.

    My husband really wanted to enjoy a white clam pizza at Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana.  Unfortunately, they were out of clams when we called.  We also wanted to go back to his favorite Thai restaurant where we ate lunch twice in 2008, but we were both bummed to find it closed.  So, we were 0/2 on food nostalgia in New Haven.  Luckily, the highlight of New Haven is really the Yale campus.  I absolutely love the Collegiate Gothic architectural style.  We were able to tour the gym, which has many aspects common in Gothic Revival architecture includes all the conveniences needed for a modern gym.

    The Beinecke Rare Book & Manuscript Library was another fun stop on our campus visit.  The stunning building has outer walls made of translucent marble that prevents the collection from being exposed to direct sunlight.  This is one of the world’s largest libraries dedicated to rare books, and a complete copy of the Gutenberg Bible is on permanent display.

    We also peeked inside the Sterling Memorial Library, which was also built in a Gothic Revival style and is reminiscent of a Gothic cathedral.  It was so beautiful, I wanted to study inside.

    No trip to Yale University is complete without a trip to the Yale University Official Bookstore for some Yale swag.  Our boys have been wearing Yale baseball caps since their toddler days, and my husband hoped they would fall in love with the campus as he had.  Of course, the campus is so breathtaking that it’s hard for anyone to not want to return to Yale, and we have two boys who both plan to attend college there.

    Our fall journey to New England in 2016 was an amazing adventure, even if the colors were not as brilliant as we had hoped.  You may not be able to predict when and if peak color will occur, but it’s a great trip to take regardless.