Category: catherine

Thanks to Yellow Bus, St. George’s Castle and Lisboa Story Centre for hosting our visits.  As always, all opinions are our own.

Lisbon is located on the northern bank of the Tagus River and known as the City of Seven Hills.  During our visit to Lisbon, we stepped back into the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries during the Age of Discovery when the Portuguese Empire was at its peak.  As we clocked thousands of steps each day, we also saw how Lisbon was affected by the devastating earthquake of 1755.  Portugal’s capital city was the perfect home base for exploring the country, and we loved our time exploring Lisbon with kids.

 

Things to Do in Lisbon With Kids

Yellow Boat River Boat Tour

Our favorite tour in Lisbon was the Yellow Boat River Tour, which was one of the Yellow Bus tours.  We embarked at the Commerce Square dock and took the marvelous one-hour trip to the Christ the King statue, under the 25th of April Bridge to the Monument of the Discoveries and finally, to the Belem Tower.   The Yellow Boat tour is a great way to get to see the Christ the King statue up close, especially because taxi fares are particularly high due to the cost of the tolls on the 25th of April Bridge.  It’s ideal to take advantage of the opportunity to get off at multiple stops and explore each area, but we were pressed for time and decided to disembark at the Belem Tower and take Tram 15 to the Time Out Market for lunch.

‘The views from the Yellow Boat are spectacular and gave us a new perspective of Lisbon.  Our tickets also included unlimited rides on local trams, funiculars and elevators.  We took the Yellow Boat River Tour on our last full day in Lisbon and weren’t able to take full advantage of the free local transportation because we had so many things on our to-do list.  But, using trams helped us get around quickly, and we finally took a ride on the Santa Justa Elevator, something that was on my Lisbon bucket list.

Tram 28

Trams have been a common mode of transportation since 1837 in Lisbon.  Tram 28 is a popular tourist attraction and a great way to get around Lisbon, too.  We rode on Tram 28 several times during our stay in Lisbon.  The Tram is notoriously crowded, particularly if you try to board in the city center.  Tram 28 passes by the Lisbon Cathedral and near St. George’s Castle, but make sure to ask the driver to point out the stop.  We missed it and had to double back.  We were able to use our Yellow Boat River Tour tickets to ride Tram 28, and it was definitely less crowded in the evening.

Portuguese Pavements

Lisbon is known for its Portuguese pavements, mosaic black and white cobbled pedestrian walkways.  The pavements are gorgeous works of art and a challenge for anyone wearing heels.  I rarely leave the house in flat shoes but was aware that sneakers were required in Portugal.  I did bring one pair of booties that I wore a few times on short trips out of our apartment and destroyed them in the process.  Practical, flat footwear is definitely required in Lisbon.

Tagus River Sunsets

I am a sucker for a beautiful sunset, and Lisbon seemed to have a dazzling display every evening.   Our taxi driver drove along the riverfront on our way from the airport at twilight, and I was wowed at the welcome to Lisbon.  We enjoyed spectacular sunset views from the riverbank near Commerce Square, the Belem Tower and St. Geroge’s Castle.  Other great options would be the viewing platforms at the Santa Justa Elevator, the Monument to the Discoveries or the Christ the King Statue.

My favorite view of the sunset was from the Belem Tower.

25th of April Bridge (Ponte 25 de Abril)

The 25th of April Bridge is a 1.5-mile suspension bridge over the Tagus River that resembles San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge.  The similarities in color and style are no accident – the 25th of April Bridge was constructed in 1966 by the American Bridge Company, the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge.  The 25th of April Bridge, which is Europe’s largest suspension bridge, connects Lisbon and Almada.  It was originally called the Salazar Bridge to honor António de Oliveira Salazar, who was the Portuguese Prime Minister at the time of its construction.  Under Salazar’s dictatorship, Portugal remained neutral during World War II.  Decades later, the bridge was renamed to honor the Carnation Revolution, which occurred on April 25, 1974.

The Sanctuary of Christ the King Statue (Cristo Rei Statue)

The Sanctuary of Christ the King is a Catholic monument and shrine dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus.  The 330-foot monument was inspired by the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro.  This concrete statue is located in Almada, across the Tagus River from central Lisbon.  The statue was constructed as an expression of gratitude for Portugal being spared from any involvement in World War II, and construction was completed in 1959. We viewed the Christ the King statue from central Lisbon and our Yellow Boat River Tour, but it is also possible to visit the monument and shrine.

 

Things to Do in Baixa With Kids

Baixa is Lisbon’s lower town near the Tagus River.  This neighborhood was almost completely destroyed during the 1755 earthquake.  This neighborhood, which is now Lisbon’s main shopping area, was rebuilt by military engineers with uniform buildings constructed on a grid street plan.  Baixa includes three main squares: Commerce Square and Rossio Square, which both existed before the earthquake, and Figueira Square, which was part of the reconstruction.  The pedestrian-only streets that are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants are the perfect place for people watching.

Commerce Square (Praca do Commercio)

Commerce Square is a riverfront square that serves as the Gateway to Lisbon.  At the time of the 1755 earthquake, the Royal Ribeira Palace, Lisbon’s royal palace during the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, occupied Commerce Square.  The Square is sometimes still referred to as the Palace Yard.  The Palace was completely destroyed by the earthquake and the tsunami that followed.  The rebuilt Square now features buildings with striking yellow facades and grand arcades and also the typical Portuguese pavements.  The equestrian statue in the Square’s center depicts Jose I, Portugal’s King at the time of the 1755 earthquake.  Following the earthquake, Jose I gave the Marques de Pombal control of the Portuguese government to lead the massive reconstruction efforts.  We watched as the enormous Christmas Tree was constructed at Commerce Square and then returned to visit the finished product several times.

Lisbon’s Rua Augusta Arch is a triumphal arch that was completed in the nineteenth century.  It includes statues of the Marques de Pombal and Vasco da Gama.

The buildings lining the Square are reminiscent of their royal past, but they have never been used as a palace.

Lisbon Story Centre (Lisboa Story Centre)

The Lisbon Story Centre is centrally located at Commerce Square.  This museum features a 60-minute multi-media presentation that provides an informative overview of Lisbon’s history.  We visited the Lisbon Story Centre on our first day in Lisbon, and the interactive presentations captivated my five, nine and eleven-year-old children.  We each received an audio guide, and the multimedia exhibits provided a great historical framework for the rest of our time in Lisbon.

The videos really helped us understand the devastation caused by the earthquake, particularly to Commerce Square, and my tech-savvy boys loved the built-in GPS devices that automatically streamed audio for the nearest display.

• Lisbon Story Centre Hours:  The Lisbon Story Centre is open daily from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.
• Lisbon Story Center Tickets:  Tickets to the Lisbon Story Centre cost 7€ for adults, 5€ for seniors over age 65 and students over age 16 and 3€ for children ages 6-15.  Children under age 6 are free.   A family ticket for two adults and two children up to age 15 costs 18€.

Rua Augusta

Rua Augusta is Lisbon’s best-known shopping street.  Rua Augusta is easily accessible from Commerce Square by going through the Rua Augusta Arch.  In addition to shopping, there are also many cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating on this pedestrian-only street.  During our visit, the street was beautifully decorated with hanging lights for Christmas.

 

Rossio Square

Rossio Square is Baixa’s main square and dates back to the thirteenth century.  Like Piazza Navona in Rome, this area was used as a race track about 2,000 years ago and retains its oval shape.  Rossio features typical Portuguese pavements in a wave pattern.  Our favorite view of the entire Square is from the Santa Justa Elevator’s viewing platform.

Rossio Square is named for the adjacent Rossio Railway Station, which we used on our way to and from Sintra.  Rossio Station is an example of Neo-Manueline architecture.  The Station’s facade was constructed around 1900.

Our favorite ginjinha bar, A Ginjinja, is located around the corner from Rossio.  Ginjinha is delicious cherry brandy sold by the shot at many ginjinha bars around town.  I preferred to order my shot without berries while my husband ordered with berries.

 

Church of St. Dominic (Igreja de São Domingos)

The Church of St. Dominic was completed during the thirteenth century.  The Church was damaged during the 1531 earthquake and largely destroyed during the 1755 earthquake.  After it was rebuilt, it was again damaged by a 1959 fire and remained closed until renovations were completed in 1994.

Many signs of the 1959 fire are still visible.  The Church also includes a chapel to Fatima.

Figueira Square (Praça da Figueira)

Figueira Square is adjacent to Rossio Square and serves as one of Lisbon’s main transportation hubs for buses and trams.    The central statue features King João I on a horse.  We particularly enjoyed the views of St. George’s Castle.

 

Time Out Market (Mercado da Ribeira)

Time Out magazine transformed the nineteenth-century Ribeira Market and opened the Time Out Market in 2014.  It’s now a foodie’s wonderland with a mix of classic restaurants and Michelin-ranked chefs.

The Time Out Market features dozens of food stalls, and our family tried a handful and all gave our meal a thumbs up.

• Time Out Market Hours:  The Time Out Market is open daily from 12:00 p.m. to 12:00 a.m.

 

Things to Do in Alfama With Kids

Alfama is Lisbon’s oldest neighborhood, which is located just east of Baixa.  Much of Alfama was spared from the 1755 earthquake, leaving the winding and narrow medieval streets intact.

St. George’s Castle (Castelo de Sao Jorge)

Our visit to St. George’s Castle was one of the highlights of our time in Lisbon.  The Castle is a National Monument that sits on the highest of Lisbon’s seven hills.  Our tour guide, Susana, described the castle’s history in great detail but also managed to keep the kids completely engaged.  St. George’s Castle has been occupied since the seventh century B.C., and the structure dates back to the fifth century A.D.  The castle was controlled by the Moors until 1147 when Dom Alfonso Henriques conquered the castle and drove the Moors out of Lisbon.  The Castle served as a royal residence until the sixteenth century when the royal family moved to Commerce Square.  It survived the earthquakes of 1531 and 1755 and has been open to the public since the 1940s.

While we love exploring ruins and had fun climbing up the castle walls, the archeological site was a real treat.  The archeological site was discovered when construction for a parking lot began.  The project had to be halted when artifacts were discovered, and parking for residents in the area remains an issue.

The site has been occupied since the seventh century B.C., and we were able to explore two houses from the Islamic period.  It was amazing to learn that homes in the seventh century B.C. had a kitchen with a fireplace and pottery.

Floating walls were added to give visitors a feel for the rooms without touching and potentially damaging the existing walls.  While I’ve toured many archeological sites, this was the first time I had seen floating walls, and they really helped me visualize what the original home would have looked like.

The archeological museum on the castle grounds had some unbelievable artifacts, including this largely reconstructed vessel.

There are great views of the Tagus River and Alfama from esplanade and castle, particularly at sunset.  We only wished the weather would have cooperated earlier in the day so that we could have spent more time exploring the Castle and taking the guided tours available throughout the day.

• St. George’s Castle Hours:  St. George’s Castle is open from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. from November to February and 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. from March to October.
• St. George’s Castle Tickets:  Tickets to St. George’s Castle cost 10€ for adults, 8.5€ for visitors over age 65 and 5€ for visitors ages 13-25.  Visitors age 0-12 are free.

Lisbon Cathedral (Sé de Lisboa)

The Lisbon Cathedral is a Gothic/Romanesque Cathedral that dates back to the twelfth century.  The Cathedral was built to commemorate the defeat of the Moors, and St. Anthony was baptized here in 1195.  It was damaged by the earthquakes of 1344 and 1755 but not destroyed.  It’s not surprising that it now features a fortress-like exterior.

 

Things to Do in Belem With Kids

Belém is where the Tagus River meets the Atlantic Ocean.  It’s about five miles from central Lisbon and easily reachable by Tram 15 or an Uber.  Belem played an important role in the Age of Discovery.  Explorers departed from Belem after spending the night praying at the Jeronimos Monastery.  Belem did not experience as much destruction from the 1755 earthquake as Baixa, so its buildings were spared.

 

Jeronimos Monastery

The Jeronimos Monastery is one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites named for the monks of the Order of St. Jerome.  These monks comforted sailors and prayed for the king’s soul.   The Monastery was originally constructed in Manueline style, an ornamental architectural style named for King Manuel, who ruled from 1495 to 1521, to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s voyage to India.  And, it was financed, in part, by the proceeds of the spice trade to celebrate Lisbon’s Golden Age.  Explorers spent the last night before their departure praying near this site.  The church’s exterior is constructed out of stunning white limestone.   The building incurred some damage in the 1755 earthquake but was largely preserved.

The tomb of Vasco da Gama is in the Church.  Vasco da Gama departed from Belem with four ships and 150 men on July 7, 1497 and became the first European explorer to reach India in 1498.  He returned to Lisbon in 1499.  Vasco da Gama returned to India two more times and died there in 1524.  His body was originally buried at St. Francis Church in Cochin, which we visited in 2016, but after 14 years, his body was returned to Lisbon.

Before heading to the Cloister, make sure not to miss the view of the entire church from the upper choir and check out the columns that look like palm trees.

The Monastery’s Cloister is probably the best example Manueline architecture and has been the site of treaty signings, including Portugal’s admittance to the European Union.

• Jeronimos Monastery Hours:  The Monastery is generally open Tuesdays through Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. from October to April and from 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. from May to September.
• Jeronimos Monastery Tickets:  Tickets to the Jeronimos Monastery cost 10€ for all visitors over age 12.  Visitors age 0-12 are free. We read in several guidebooks that it was possible to purchase a combined pass for entry into the Jeronimos Monastery and the Tower of Belem, but when my husband inquired, we were told that no such combo ticket was available.  The website advertises a combination ticket for the Monastery and National Archeological Museum for 12€.

Belém Tower (Torre de Belem)

Belém Tower is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is considered a quintessential symbol of the Age of Discoveries.  This Manueline-style fortification was built in the early sixteenth century during the reign of King Manuel I.

Our travel guide suggested that the Belém Tower is best viewed from outside, but we loved exploring the inside with its winding staircases and phenomenal views.  We visited at sunset, which was ideal, and we lingered as long as we could.

• Tower of Belem Hours: The Tower of Belem is generally open on Tuesdays through Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. from October to April and from 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. from May to September.
• Tower of Belem Tickets:  The Tower of Belem tickets cost  6€ with discounts available for youth, families and seniors.

 

Monument to the Discoveries

The Monument to the Discoveries was originally built in 1940 for the World’s Fair and reconstructed in 1960 to honor the 500th anniversary of the death of Henry the Navigator.  The monument depicts a huge caravel ship in full sail and includes statues of Portugal’s most famous explorers and allies.

Henry the Navigator is the leader, but Vasco da Gama, Magellan, Pedro Cabra, King Manuel I, Luis de Camoes and Philippa of Lancaster, the mother of Henry the Navigator, are also depicted in this 170-foot structure.

 

Pastéis de Belém

Pastéis de Belém is a famous custard cream tart that dates back to 1837 when the monasteries were closed, and the monks turned to baking to make a living.  These pastries have been registered as “pasteis de Belem”, and all other similar pastries sold in Lisbon are called “pasteis de nata.”  Each pastry costs about 1€.

We stood in the takeout line that moved quickly to purchase our six-pack of pasteis, which we enjoyed in a nearby park.  The top of the pastry is slightly burned, but the pastry is quite exquisite.

Things to Do in Barrio Alto/Chiado With Kids

Chiado is the neighborhood west of Baixa, often considered the High Town.  It is a shopping district.

Church of St. Roque (Igreja de São Roque)

Church of St. Roque was constructed as one of Portugal’s first Jesuit churches in the late sixteenth century.  St. Roque is a protector from disease and plagues.  Its painted wood ceiling creates a false dome.  The John the Baptist chapel was assembled in Rome at a cost per square inch that is higher than any other chapel in Portugal.

We stayed right down the street from the Church of Saint Roque and had this view of the facade from our patio.

 

Carmo Convent (Convento do Carmo)

Carmo Convent is a former Convent that was constructed during the fourteenth century.  The Convent was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and never reconstructed.  As a result, the skeletal Gothic arches are now open to the sky.  We tried several times to visit the Convent, but it was never open when we passed by.  We had to settle for the view from Rossio Square and the Santa Justa Elevator.

Santa Justa Elevator (Elevador de Santa Justa)

The Santa Justa Elevator was completed at the turn of the twentieth century by Raul Mesnier, one of Gustav Eiffel’s students, and connected the lower and upper parts of the city.  The wrought-iron Elevator is 150-feet tall and travels about seven stories.  The Neo-Gothic architectural style is reminiscent of the Eiffel Tower.  The Elevator, Lisbon’s only vertical street lift, is an easy way to travel between Baixa and Rua Carmo, a path we traveled often on foot, but it is now used largely by tourists rather than residents.

We rode the Santa Justa Elevator on our last day in Lisbon when the ride and access to the viewing platform was included in our Yellow Boat Rive Tour ticket.  Even during the low tourist season, we didn’t escape a long wait in Baixa.  The viewing platform was more exciting than the elevator ride itself.  If we realized that the line was much shorter at the top, we would have gone straight to the viewing platform and taken the ride down instead.

The view from the top was definitely worth the wait.  We enjoyed this vantage point for St. George’s Castle, Rossio Square and the surrounding area.

• Santa Justa Elevator Hours:  The Elevator is open daily from 7:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. from April to October and from 7:30 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. from November to April.  The Viewpoint is open daily from 9:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. from April to October and 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m. from November to March.
• Santa Justa Elevator Tickets:  Round trip tickets cost 5€.   Cardholders of Yellow Bus  or Lisboa Card tickets do not need to pay an entry fee.  Because the Santa Justa Elevator is part of Lisbon’s public transit system, a ride on the lift is included in a 24-hour transit ticket, which can be purchased at any Metro station for €6.40.

 

Armazens do Chiado

Armazens do Chiado is a stylish shopping center with dozens of stores.  We picked up food at the food court a few times, and Wok to Walk was our favorite.  It’s is a few minutes from the Elevator Santa Justa and also bridges the gap between Chiado and Baixa.

Camoes Square

Camoes Square may be eclipsed by the more well known Commerce, Rossio and Figueira Squares, but it was one of our favorites, and we visited daily during our time in Lisbon.  The main monument was a statue of the famous sixteenth-century Portuguese poet, Luis de Camões.

The Square was superbly decorated for Christmas, and we absolutely loved the enormous ornament.

 

Things to Do in Parque das Nações

The Park of Nations was developed to host Expo ’98, which honored the 500th anniversary of Vasco da Gama’s pivotal voyage to India.

Lisbon Aquarium (Lisbon Oceanario)

The Lisbon Aquarium is the largest indoor aquarium in Europe.  The building was designed to look like an aircraft carrier and is built on a pier.  I visited with my five-year-old daughter during our special Mother-Daughter day while my husband took our sons to a Benfica soccer game.

The Lisbon Aquarium was one of my daughter’s favorite sites in Portugal.  She’s visited aquariums in Clearwater, Cleveland, Pittsburgh and Columbus, but she was really wowed by the 180,000 cubic-foot tank with more than 100 species and also enjoyed watching the penguin feeding.

She was also a big fan of Vasco, the scuba diver mascot and made sure that I got a picture of her posing with her buddy each time she saw him.

• Lisbon Aquarium Hours:  The Lisbon Aquarium is generally open from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. during the winter months and 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. during the summer months.
• Lisbon Aquarium Tickets:  Lisbon Aquarium tickets cost 19€ for visitors age 13-64, 13€ for visitors age 4-12 and over 64.  Visitors age 0-3 are free.  Families with two adults and two children up to age 12 cost 50€, and additional children cost 6,70€.

 

Vasco da Gama Mall

Vasco da Gama Mall is Lisbon’s most popular mall.  It opened adjacent to Oriente Station in 1999 and features several outdoor terraces.  It was decorated for Christmas when we visited and very crowded.

 

Park of Nations (Parque das Nacoes)

The Park features flags of participating nations and the Telecabine Lisboa cable car.   We did not have a chance to spend much time exploring the park or riding the cable car, but would definitely enjoyed the view.

 

Things to Do in Northwest Lisbon

Benfica Game

Lisbon is home to two soccer teams – Benfica and Sporting CP.  Benfica is Lisbon’s best-known soccer team and plays in the Stadium of Light.  My husband took our sons to a Benfica game, which was the highlight of their time in Lisbon.  We purchased tickets at the Benfica Store on Rua Augusta.  Their seats were right near the field, and they all had a blast watching Benfica beat Maritimo with a final score of 4-0.

 

Why Visit Lisbon With Kids?

Lisbon is a magical city to visit with kids.  Lisbon is a very walkable city with so many different activities for families to enjoy together.  Lisbon had the attention of the world during the Age of Discovery and still holds many important historical landmarks as well as beautiful sunsets every evening.  Compared to other European capitals, Lisbon is extremely affordable and a wonderful city for families to explore.

Thank you to Parques de Sintra for providing me with free entry to Pena Palace and Moorish Castle.  All opinions are my own.

Sintra, Portugal is an easy day trip from Lisbon, and our visit was one of our family’s highlights during a recent trip to Portugal.  Sintra is located about 15 miles from Lisbon and was the summer home for many of the members of Portugal’s royal family.  It’s a popular tourist destination because of its picturesque castles and palaces and the extraordinary hilltop views of the Atlantic Ocean and Lisbon.  Sintra was designated as a UNESCO heritage site in 1995 because of its cultural landscape.  We were lucky to visit on a gorgeous day with a beautiful blue sky that served as the perfect background for the colorful Pena Palace.  We enjoyed our day trip to Sintra from Lisbon and highly recommend adding Sintra to the itinerary of any Portuguese vacation.

 

Getting to Sintra 

Sintra is about a 40 minute train ride from Lisbon’s Rossio station.  We read that trains leave Rossio every 10 to 20 minutes, but when we arrived at the Rossio station at 10:00 a.m., the next train to Sintra was departing at 10:40 a.m.  We picked up pastries while we waited.  We used our Viva Viagem cards, and the round trip train fare cost less than 4 euros per person.  It was a quick and uneventful journey, and we were ready to spend the day perusing palaces and castles.

 

Sintra Town Center

The train station is located in the Sintra town center, which is known for its Romanticist architecture.  We visited on a Monday when many attractions are closed in Lisbon and many tourists venture to Sintra.  Because it was off-season, it was not very crowded.  As a result, we were overwhelmed with offers for transportation and palace tours as we exited the station.  Despite reading about getting around Sintra at length, we were nervous about fitting in visits to two palaces and a castle before sunset.  While we typically rely on public transportation, ubers and taxis when walking isn’t feasible, we were nervous about the availability of transportation from Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle back to town.  One driver, Nuno Aramac, caught our attention and told us that he had a van with car seats and could take us to all three sights over the next few hours.  His price was higher than the cost of the local bus, but we weren’t exactly sure where to find that bus or how to navigate all our stops.  We also didn’t have time to wait for buses.  So, my husband and I quickly agreed that convenience made the cost worthwhile.

We headed into town and wandered around the exterior of the National Palace while we secured our tickets to Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle and then headed up the hill.  The drive up the hill was longer than I expected.  Nuno pulled off a few times for us to check out different views of Pena Palace and Moorish Castle before leaving us at the Pena’s Lakes Entrance.

 

Pena Palace

The Pena Palace in Sintra is the most colorful palace I have ever seen.  Prince Ferdinand hired a German architect to design this fantasy castle in the mid-nineteenth century.  Pena sits almost 1,500 feet above sea level on the site of a 16th-century monastery.  The result was a blending of a whole host of architectural styles and a blending of bold primary colors.  Pena bears some resemblance to the Neuschwanstein Castle in Bavaria and is known as the “Versailles of Portugal.”  The surrounding Pena Park is one of Portugal’s most spectacular parks.

After a morning spent waiting and sitting, we were ecstatic to finally start exploring.  The walk through Pena Park from the Lakes Entrance took at least 30 minutes and was mostly uphill, but the gardens were so lovely and different that we enjoyed the time immensely.  Pena Palace looked so far away when we started our hike, and it was fun to catch different views of the Palace as we explored the gardens.  Compared to the gardens in Versailles, these lush gardens were well shaded and not particularly crowded at all.  I was so glad that we were finally stroller-free because the uneven pavement and hill would have made it challenging to use, and strollers were not permitted in Pena’s interior.  My daughter was a trooper, but her 11 year old brother did need to give her a few lifts.

There was beautiful shade from the more than 500 species of trees, and the long walk was worthwhile for us.  The air itself was a delight.  However, the walk would not have been so pleasant if it was raining.  Also, families short on time should enter at the Main Entrance and spend any extra time wandering into the gardens closest to the Palace.  Or, if possible, walk from Pena to the Lakes Entrance to take advantage of the downhill slope.

When we finally reached Pena Palace, we headed for the outdoor patios and checked out all the views of the Palace and the surrounding area.  While Pena Palace was not nearly as crowded as Versailles during our July 2018 visit, it attracted the largest crowd of tourists and the highest concentration of Americans that we saw during our 12 days in Portugal.  The outdoor patios were the most crowded for sure at this magical hilltop palace.

The Palace housed the royal family from 1857 until 1910.  Its interior is largely as Queen Amelia left it in the early 20th century.  The eclectic rooms inside Pena were small and luxurious but also unique.  The furniture was similar to the style of 19th-century pieces we have in our house.  No pictures were permitted in the interior of the castle, but we noted differences in the styles of the design and interiors of each room as we wandered through the bedrooms, terraces, bathrooms and dressing rooms.  We used Rick Steves’ Portugal guidebook to create our own self-guided tour.  The crowds within the Palace were limited, which, compared to our experience at Versailles, was very welcome.

We took a break at a cafe inside of Pena Palace and picked up sandwiches and snacks that we enjoyed on a patio with a stunning view of the area.  After we finished up at Pena, we walked to the Main Entrance.  There was a shuttle bus available for an additional fee, but we didn’t want to do any more waiting – to purchase tickets or wait for a bus, and the short walk was no issue.

• • Admission to Pena Palace and Park: Tickets are available at Pena’s Main Entrance and Lakes Entrance, at the National Palace and the Moorish Castle and several shops in town.  As of December 2019, tickets for the Palace and Park cost 14€ for adults and 12,5€ for youths age 6-17 and seniors over 65.  A family ticket is available for two adults and two youths for 49€.  Tickets for the Park only cost 7,5€ for adults and 6,5€ for youths age 6-17 and seniors over 65.  A family ticket is available for two adults and two youths and costs 26€.  There is a small discount when purchasing tickets to two or more of the Parques de Sintra.
  • Pena Palace and Park Hours:  In high season, the Pena Palace is generally open from 9:45 a.m. to 7:00 p.m., and Pena Park is open from 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.  During low season, Pena Palace and Park are generally open from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Moorish Castle

The entrance to the Moorish Castle is about 10 minutes downhill from Pena Palace’s Main Entrance.  We walked along the side of the road for about 10 minutes to reach the Main Entrance of the Moorish Castle.  We already had our tickets, so we headed right for the Castle when we reached the main gate.

We love exploring ruins and wanted to stop at Moorish Castle, even though we felt pressed for time.   The Moorish Castle is about 1,352 feet above sea level and dates back to the 10th century by Muslims and was captured by Scandinavian crusaders in 1147.  King Ferdinand led restoration efforts in the 19th century to preserve the Castle.    The Castle attracted a smaller crowd than Pena, but the pathways were so narrow in parts that it was necessary to stop and wait for others to pass coming in the opposite direction.  Even after several hours of walking, my five-year-old was fine on the Castle walls, but there were many stretches with lower walls where my husband or I made sure to hold her hands.

The panoramic view of the Atlantic and the surrounding area from the top of the Tower was stunning.  This was my favorite hilltop view in Sintra.

We only had time to explore one of the two towers before our meeting time with Nuno, but we were glad we included a stop at the Moorish Castle.

The Moorish Castle is not at all stroller friendly.  On the path up to the Castle, the pavement was uneven and had large gaps filled with moss.  The walkways to the towers had many stairs and were often too narrow for a stroller.  Our youngest stopped napping this year, and we were thrilled to be stroller free.

• Admission to Moorish Castle: Tickets are available at the Moorish Castle, Pena Palace, the National Palace and several shops in town.  As of December 2019, tickets for the Moorish Castle cost 8€ for adults and 6,5€ for youths age 6-17 and seniors over 65.  A family ticket is available for two adults and two youths and costs 26€.  There is a small discount when purchasing tickets to two or more of the Parques de Sintra.
• Moorish Castle Hours:  During the high season, the Moorish Castle is generally open from 9:30 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and during low season, the Moorish Castle is generally open from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira was our last stop and our favorite site of the day.  Most Sintra visitors prioritize the iconic Pena Palace and overlook Quinta da Regaleira, and we were certainly glad that we did not. Luigi Manini designed the estate’s manor house (the Quinta) and garden for Carvalho Monteiro, a Brazilian who was connected with the Knights Templar and Freemasonry in 1912.  The manor house was designed in a Romantic style.

The palace itself is an extremely impressive private estate, but the highlights of Quinta da Regaleira were the gardens.  Not only did these gardens include impeccably manicured landscapes, the perfect amount of shade and beautiful views of the Quinta, but there was also the Initiation Well, towers, a stone bridge over a creek and secret underground passages.  The Masonic twists made us feel as if we were touring a set of Da Vinci Code.

The Initiation Well was never used for water collection, and its ceremonial purpose remains somewhat of a mystery, which made it more interesting.  It was not intended as a tourist site, but we all had a thrill climbing down the well.

The peculiar Initiation Well was just a starting point.  We explored the winding tunnels below and came to Labyrinthic Grotto, which included a pond that could only be crossed by balancing on a series of stones.  It was these mysterious and unusual touches that made Quinta da Regaliera’s gardens our family’s favorite of all time.

We finished up our time at Quinta da Regaleira visiting the Chapel and manor house.   The Chapel was deceptively large and included several stories.  The interior of the Quinta itself was not as memorable as Pena but impressive for a private estate.  We recommend Quinta da Regaleira on any Sintra must-see list.

• Quinta da Regaleira tickets:  Tickets cost 8€ for adults and 5€ for youth age 6-17 and seniors age 65-79.  Children under 6 and seniors over 79 are free.  A family ticket is available for two adults and two youths and costs 22€.
• Quinta da Regaleira hours:  From April 1 to September 30, Quinta da Regaleira is generally open from 9:30 to 8:00 p.m.  From October 1 to March 31, Quinta da Regaleira is generally open from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

National Palace

The National Palace is located in Sintra’s town center and was constructed during the 16th century and partially reconstructed in the 19th century.  The National Palace served as a royal palace until 1910 and was last inhabited by Queen Maria Pia and is still used for occasional official receptions, making it the oldest surviving royal palace in Portugal.

We viewed the National Palace from the outside only – from the town center and the hilltop – due to time constraints but noticed the cone-shaped chimneys and its blend of Gothic and Manueline architecture.  Manueline influences were particularly obvious in the ornamentation around the windows.

 

Eating in Sintra

After touring Quinta da Regaleira, we headed back to the town center for dinner.  Many tourists who made a day trip to Sintra had already headed out, and Sintra was particularly quiet.  We stopped at Casa Piriquita to pick up some quintessential Sintra pastries – queijada de Sintra, a cheesecake, and travesseiro da Piriquita, an almond puff pastry, before finding a quaint cafe for dinner.  I enjoyed Lisbon’s pasteis da nata more than the Sintra pastries, but we enjoyed our sweet, local treat during our train ride back to Lisbon.

A Day Trip from Lisbon to Sintra

It’s not hard to see why Lord Byron referred to Sintra as “Glorious Eden.”  We recommend families travel to Sintra from Lisbon.  The only downside was that we felt like we were racing to fit it all in.  My oldest commented that we could have easily spent a second day exploring Sintra.  We may not have had enough time to fit in a second day in Sintra, but it would have been more relaxed if we had an earlier start.