Last year, my family traveled to Costa Rica for spring break. We scored some awesomely inexpensive tickets from DC to Liberia, but I was completely stumped when trying to figure out an affordable rental car. Rental car prices for our one week stay varied from extremely cheap ($80) to cost prohibitive ($900+) and the insurance requirements were indecipherable. Even more troubling were the numerous reviews from unsuspecting vacationers who booked a seemingly affordable rental car, only to be hit with excessive fees upon arrival. After a few hours of research, I was able to figure out a way to ins and outs of Costa Rica rental car insurance and after reaching out directly to a number of rental car agencies, decided to book with Vamos. Here’s what I learned about Costa Rica rental car insurance and my review of our experience with Vamos.
Costa Rica Rental Car Insurance:
Rental car insurance is a government monopoly in Costa Rica and thus, every rental must have liability insurance from the INS (Instituto Nacional de Seguros). The mandatory insurance costs anywhere from $10-$20/day, depending on the vehicle you rent and provides only minimal coverage (it does not cover your rental car at all, only damage to other people, their cars, or property). Thus, if you want coverage for any damages to your rental car, you must purchase supplemental collision ($15-40/day, depending on rental car company and vehicle) or, if you have it, rely on your credit card’s rental car coverage.
My husband and I both carry the Chase Sapphire Reserve card, which offers primary collision as an included benefit. Primary insurance means that the Chase’s rental car insurance benefit kicks in before our regular car insurance and, for those who might not have a vehicle and thus, do not carry car insurance, the Chase benefit serves as your insurance policy when renting a car on travel. Prior to travel, I called the phone number on the back of my Chase Sapphire Reserve card and inquired about the rental car benefit. I was transferred to Card Benefit Services and, upon confirming my personal details, was emailed a letter verifying my CSR insurance benefit and the terms of coverage. A redacted copy of the letter can be found here.
Choosing Vamos Rent-A-Car:
When researching Costa Rica rental car options, Priceline.com and various independent car rental websites were willing to rent me a car for the entire week for as little as $100, without any insurance. Reading numerous online reviews, however, I feared that we would suffer the same experience as many: showing up and being held hostage at the rental car line and being told we needed to add on hundreds of extra dollars of coverage to our car. Of all the car rental companies I researched, Vamos Rent-A-Car was the only one that allowed me to: (1) select the mandatory liability insurance and (2) waive the collision insurance during our reservation. As an added bonus, Vamos also included one free child car seat rental and a free cooler. Although the quoted price was just over $300 and thus $200 over the least expensive option I could find online, I valued Vamos’ transparent booking process (and the numerous positive online reviews didn’t hurt either). Moreover, after reserving our vehicle, I emailed Vamos to confirm that our credit card collision coverage would be sufficient. I attached a copy of the letter from Chase’s Card Benefit Services and within hours, received a reply that it was fine and would be accepted. My husband reports that he had no issues when picking up the vehicle and that the final estimated price was the quoted price online.
Why book a rental car?
I’m sure you’re asking — why book a rental car? The honest truth is that we are not resort people. My husband and I (and our kids) get antsy if we are in one place for an extended period of time and, traveling with young kids means that we have very little desire to be stuck on hotel shuttles and guided tours.
Moreover, although our resort offered shuttle services to and from the airport and to other nearby locations, utilizing the cheapest transport option of a private shuttle for our family of four to travel from the airport to the hotel would have cost $280 round trip. Thus, the cost of the rental car was essentially the same as taking a shuttle to/from the airport… but we would also have a rental car available for us to use for the duration of our stay. Note: it ended up costing us $338 to rent the car for the duration of our trip.
Car Seats in Costa Rica:
It may come as a surprise to many, but car seat laws in Costa Rica are significantly more stringent than laws in the United States. Indeed, all children under 12 must be secured in an appropriate car seat when traveling by car in Costa Rica. Vamos graciously offers one car seat or booster free of charge for the duration of your rental, which was one of the immediate benefits to renting from Vamos as both our kids would require car seats. I’m a bit of a car seat junkie and almost always insist on bringing our own car seat on trips. For this trip, my intent was to utilize the IMMI GO Child Car Harness. Unfortunately, when my husband arrived at Vamos, he learned quickly that the IMMI GO’s LATCH attachments would not work with our Costa Rican rental car. This being our first international rental car experience with a car seat that wasn’t just a simple booster, we had neglected to consider that international cars may have different attachments. Luckily, Vamos was great and provided us with a rental car seat for my not quite four year old. Although Vamos’ original quote included only one free rental car seat and I had selected a booster seat for my nine year old as our “free seat,” the attendant noticed that my husband was unable to get the IMMI GO to install properly in our rental vehicle and supplied us with a convertible car seat at no extra charge. The convertible car seat was in excellent and clean condition and I was immensely grateful. Had I been aware of the issue, I would have likely packed the RideSafer Travel Vest, or just brought a booster for my older kid and used the free car seat option on a convertible car seat, which is more cumbersome to travel with.
Snug as a bug in his Vamos car seat.
Getting Gas in Costa Rica:
Our rental car came with a full tank of gas and we only ended up having to fill up once, immediately prior to returning the vehicle. I’m no expert in getting gas in Costa Rica, but our experience was that all of the gas stations are full service – meaning you cannot pump your own gas. While getting gas, we were approached by an individual offering to clean our windshield. I have on idea whether that was a complimentary service, but we declined by waving the individual away. We were able to pay our bill via credit card and I was thankful that we had change from our trip to Rincon, so I could tip the individual who pumped our gas.
Our trip to Costa Rica with kids did not involve much by way of pre-planned activities. Although our vacations are typically scheduled down to the minute to maximize experiences, our stated goal in traveling to Costa Rica was to spend time together, relaxing as a family. That said, there was one thing that we knew, with absolutely certainty, had to be done: ziplining.
Ziplining is so essential to any Costa Rica experience that I knew we had to do it. Admittedly terrified of heights, I had no interest in ziplining, but my almost nine year old is a bit of a daredevil and I knew he could persuade his dad into nearly anything. That said, the difficulty with ziplining as an activity was that we also have a very active not quite four year old, who very much so believes that he can and should be able to do whatever his big brother is doing. After a bit of poking around online, I settled on an outing to Diamante Eco Adventure Park with kids!
My best description of the Park is that it is essentially a Costa Rican amusement park/zoo all tied up into one. The Park offers a number of activities, including ziplining, horse back riding, and ATV rides, to name a few. The Park also offers numerous animals, a butterfly conservatory, and even a hot buffet lunch, if you’re so inclined.
The cost of admission is not cheap and varies depending on what activities you want to participate in. The plan was for my husband and oldest son to zipline, while my younger son and I visited with the animals, so we knew we needed to at least have those two options available to us. After perusing the various passes, I decided that the Adventure Pass made the most sense, as it includes ziplining, admission to the animal part of the Park, access to the beach, and a buffet lunch. The plan was to spend the day there so even though it was seemingly rather expensive at $118 for an adult and $95 for my older son (children under 5 are free), we went ahead and purchased our tickets.
The drive from our hotel to the Park took about one hour. About 20 minutes from the Park, we started spotting large and colorful signs that pointed us in the correct direction. Upon arrival, we confirmed with the security guard posted at the bottom of the driveway that we were visiting for the day, at which point we drove up to the parking area outside the main entrance.
After parking, we spotted the shuttle bus and quickly climbed on. The main entrance is located at the top of the hill directly above the shuttle bus in the above picture. I had some difficulty during the ticket purchasing process in terms of trying to figure out exactly how the day would go. Specifically, the online ticket purchase requires you to select a time for your zipline adventure. We were running slightly behind schedule and so we arrived 10 minutes after our selected time. I was quickly assured this was not a problem as we were checked in and queued for zip lining.
There are five ziplines at the park, but unfortunately, my son was just shy of the 85 pound minimum required to go on the Superman, which the Park claims to be the longest biplane in Costa Rica. Because he was unable to do the Superman, there was one other zipline he could not go on, as he had to return via the Superman. Although this meant that he was only able to go on three ziplines, his spirits were not dampened as he got weighed and outfitted.
With my husband and oldest son off on their zipline adventure, my youngest and I set out to explore the animals. It was a quick shuttle bus ride to the zoo entrance and we were off.
My little one and I enjoyed the various habitats, in particular the frog room. It was an open room with various frogs located around the room. We simply wandered around and tried to peek behind plans and leaves to find resting frogs/toads. We also loved the butterfly conservatory, but it was extremely stressful and it was completely packed with butterflies and I was terrified my little one would step on one. Luckily, we managed to spent quite a bit of time there, admiring the various species of butterflies, without causing any harm.
We were in the zoo for about 40 minutes when my husband and older son joined us. The last station on their abbreviated circuit of three ziplines conveniently dropped them off in the middle of the zoo. We spent about 90 minutes walking the zoo before deciding it was too hot and time for lunch.
Back at the main entrance, we scoped out the buffet and sat down for a bite to eat.
The buffet options were modest, but there was plenty for everyone. The meat options included BBQ chicken and ribs, and plenty of rice and beans and fries. My kids also happened to love the pizza (of course).
After lunch, we decided it was time to leave. Although we had planned to visit the beach, it was clear that the heat had gotten to my youngest son and that he was struggling to keep it together. A quick shuttle bus ride down to the parking lot and we settled in for the hour long ride home.
Final thoughts?
I enjoyed our visit to Diamante Eco Adventure Park and it was a good way to spend the day. My oldest got to experience the zipline and my youngest enjoyed seeing “Costa Rica animals,” as he affectionately called them. Every single employee at the Park was helpful – from the hostess that greeted us to the individuals scattered throughout the zoo, offering to give us a mini tour of the various habitats. In fact, my husband and oldest were so taken in by the “cats” habitat that the employee there ended up giving them a 20 minute tour and explanation of the animals and their daily routines.
In hindsight, I did not have to pay for the full Adventure Pass and could have saved a few dollars by opting for the Discovery Pass (which does not include ziplining, lunch, or beach access) and is $76 cheaper. But, since we had originally planned to visit the beach and knew that we would be eating lunch at the Park regardless, we went ahead and purchased the more expensive pass just to have more options available to us. That children under five are admitted for free definitely helped ease the pain in that regard.
If you’re thinking about visiting the Diamante Eco Adventure Park with kids, I can highly recommend it. It’s a clean facility and the employees are all top notch. From the extremely affable hostess to the focus on safety with respect to the ziplines, our family was able to enjoy a day outing with plenty of fun and entertainment for everyone.
I hope you enjoyed following along on our Costa Rica With Kids adventure!
Our series on Fun Family Beaches gave us the chance to live vicariously through our contributors and their idyllic beach destinations but also reminded us of some of our favorite beach visits. Even if visits to any of those stunning Australian or South Pacific beaches have been only in our dreams, we have been fortunate to visit quite a few amazing beaches around the world and look forward to our next beach vacation. Putting together our list of beaches reminds us that some beaches we visited pre-kids are not necessarily ideal family vacation destinations, and so we haven’t planned recent return trips. While not all the beaches we’ve visited with kids are picturesque sand beaches, our boys have a lot of fun skipping rocks.
Some of our favorite beaches, both close to home and far away:
Alleppey Beach – Kerala, India
After a day on a houseboat on the backwaters of Kerala, we stopped at a beach to dip our toes into the Arabian Sea. Our driver did not understand my need to take the kids to this practically empty beach with no amenities, but I admittedly have a thing about dipping my toes in a new body of water and didn’t want to miss this chance for my kids to experience the Arabian Sea. Years ago, I arrived in San Diego close to midnight and practically skipped down to the beach for my first touch of the Pacific Ocean. The salt water even stained my pants in the process. The boys are always up for a visit to a beach – new or old, and we were all glad we made the stop on the way back to our hotel. – CMD
Boulders Beach – South Africa
As part of our tour of the Cape Peninsula in South Africa, we stopped at Boulders Beach, which is definitely one of my favorite beaches on earth. Definitely not your typical beach experience, Boulders Beach is an enclosed, protected penguin habitat. We enjoyed walking along the newly constructed enclosed boardwalk, which provided great views of the penguins and were in awe of just how amazing it was to see these beautiful birds in their “natural” habitat. – NKC
Clearwater Beach – Clearwater, Florida
We recently spent an afternoon at Clearwater Beach during a long weekend escape from the cold Ohio winter. Clearwater Beach, which received the Traveler’s Choice Award for the best beach in the US by Trip Advisor in 2016 and 2018, had beautiful powdery sand and gentle Gulf Coast waves. After a delicious lunch at Frenchy’s Rockaway Grill, we rented two lounge chairs and an umbrella. The water was a bit too chilly to fully enjoy during our February visit, but the kids had a blast in playing in the sand and kicking around a beach ball. We grabbed milk shakes from Ice & Cream on our way back to our hotel. – CMD
Conneaut Beach – Conneaut, Ohio
We make a day trip to Conneaut, Ohio each summer with my parents. We always eat a picnic lunch at White Turkey and grab ice cream at Heavenly Creamery, which is housed in a former church. However, the highlight of Conneaut is spending the afternoon at the beach. Honestly, the safety of the water quality in Lake Erie is something that concerns me, but the numbers looked good on the day of our visit last year, so the kids enjoyed some time in the water with their seven cousins and also found some sea glass. – CMD
Geneva Beach – Geneva, Ohio
One of our favorite weekend day trip destinations is the Grand River Valley wine country in nearby Northeast Ohio. After lunch at Ferrante Winery and Ristorante, we often visit the beach at Geneva State Park. While this can be much rockier than a typical sand beach, our boys have a great deal of fun skipping (or throwing) them into Lake Erie. – CMD
Kaanapali Beach – Maui, Hawaii
Once named America’s Best Beach, Kaanapali Beach in Maui offers three miles of pristine white sand and blue waters. Even with a large number of resorts lining the shore, we never felt crowded and some of our favorite memories are of kite flying at dusk. – NKC
Naples Beach– Naples, Florida
I spent a weekend in Naples with a friend years ago. We stayed at her parent’s beach-front condo and split our days between the beach in front of their condo and the pool behind. The Gulf water was warm during our March visit, and the white sand was particularly soft. I’ve been dreaming about retiring to beach front property ever since this trip. – CMD
Playa Bavaro– Punta Cana, Dominican Republic
The first all-inclusive my husband and I visited together was Punta Cana’s Iberostar Bávaro, which has recently been renovated and rebranded as Iberostar Bávaro Suites. The Iberostar Bávaro included the preferred club rooms of three affiliated resorts. So, we had access to the facilities on the other two resorts, but guests of those resorts could not use the Bavaro’s facilities. The Caribbean Sea water was a crystal clear blue, and the sand was pristine white. I thoroughly enjoyed the week of rest and relaxation bouncing from the beach to the pool and read a record four books during the trip. – CMD
Playa Nacascolo – Papagayo Peninsula, Costa Rica
Located just a few minutes away from the Andaz Papagayo Peninsula Resort, the Andaz Beach House located on Playa Nacascolo offers beautiful white sand beaches and stunningly clear, blue water. It’s truly the perfect place to enjoy a drink or two while watching your children splash safely in the mild waters. – NKC
Puerto Morelos Beach – Riviera Maya, Mexico
We so enjoyed our visit to Riviera Maya during my maternity leave with our second child that we repeated it when our third was born. The all-inclusive Now Jade and Now Sapphire were ideal resorts for our family. Between meals, we spent most of our days lounging at the pool or the beach. The Caribbean Sea was warm, and the waves were calm. The Now Sapphire had sailboats available for guests to use, and my husband took our oldest on an extremely memorable snorkeling trip. These resorts also offered nighttime family entertainment and on-site local marketplaces so that it was not necessary to leave the resort to purchase handmade souvenirs. – CMD
Reynisfjara Beach – Southwest Iceland
Reynisfjara Beach is one of the most stunning beaches we have ever visited, even though it is not one where visitors spend the day lounging in the sun. We didn’t actually see the sun when we were there during a typical June day, which was cold, wet, gray and windy. Nevertheless, this a black sand beach on the Atlantic Ocean, which featured the stunning Reynisdrangur sea stacks and phenomenal basalt sea cave, Halsanefshellir, was breathtakingly beautiful.
It’s important to note that Reynisfjara was also the most dangerous beach we ever visited. We took note of the cautionary signs regarding recent tourist deaths that occurred in 2016 and 2017 due to the dangerously unpredictable waves and strong undertow. We thought we were keeping more than a safe distance from the water’s edge, but our nine-year-old tripped and fell running away from a sneaker wave that came inland much further than previous ones and was immediately covered by the water. My husband was able to safely pull him out before the wave retreated, but it was a very scary experience for all of us. Luckily, the only casualty was the pair of shoes he was wearing that had to be discarded due to the overwhelming stench of sea water. – CMD
Santa Monica State Beach, Santa Monica, California
The Santa Monica Pier was my favorite spot in Los Angeles. The Pier adds a great deal of excitement to the otherwise typical Pacific Ocean beach. Pacific Park, the amusement park, features the world’s first and only solar paneled ferris wheel and eleven other rides, including a roller coaster. I particularly loved how the bright colors of Pacific Park popped against the ocean and sky. On our stroll down the pier, we passed musicians, artists, magicians, souvenir shops, carnival games and various food stalls. My son was particularly intrigued by a magician doing tricks for a crowd and a painter who was painting the pier on a piece of slate. As the sun began to set, we headed off the Pier and onto the beach. It was a pretty amazing end of a quick trip to feel the sand between our toes while we stood at the water’s edge and listened to the waves ebb and flow. We really savored those moments as we waded into the Pacific. – CMD
Treasure Island Beach – Treasure Island, Florida
During our recent visit to Treasure Island, we stayed at Treasure Island Beach Resort, a new beach front property. The sand is not quite as pristine as it is at the nearby Clearwater Beach, it was still great for sand play and also much better for collecting shells. The Gulf Coast waters are relatively calm but were still pretty chilly in February. We spent time on the beach each of our days in Florida but only rented an umbrella and chairs on the one day that we really dedicated to Treasure Island beach. We definitely enjoy the quieter beach as our home base, especially with the amenities of a resort nearby. – CMD
Vieques Beach– Vieques, Puerto Rico
My husband and I honeymooned on Puerto Rico’s Vieques Island years ago. Vieques’ Mosquito Bay is the world’s brightest bioluminescent bay and a remarkable nighttime experience. We recently saw Mosquito Bay featured in the Cleveland Museum of Natural History’s recent special exhibit, Creatures of Light. While we would love to take our kids to Mosquito Bay, we have not prioritized Vieques as a family travel destination because of the challenges associated with its remoteness. We rented a Jeep so we would could travel on the unpaved roads that lead to some of the most beautiful and secluded beaches in the Caribbean. These beaches were certainly pristine and breathtaking, but ultimately, we decided that we prefer beaches with nearby services, particularly when traveling with kids. – CMD
Villa Caletas Beach – Jaco, Costa Rica
My husband and I traveled to Costa Rica pre-kids and spent a lovely few days at Hotel Villa Caletas, which is probably our favorite hotel ever. Hotel Villa Caletas is a small resort, and we saw the most fantastic spider webs, macaws and other exotic birds during our stay. The beach is extremely secluded and accessible by an hourly hotel shuttle or rented 4×4 vehicles. While we were often the only guests at the beach, services were available. I enjoyed relaxing on a sun bed while my husband explored the wildlife in the rock pools, including the crabs. Even though the beach was rocky, our kids would absolutely love the animal sightings on this luxurious property. Unfortunately, Hotel Villa Caletas does not offer rooms that accommodate families with three children. – CMD
White Sand Beach – Paia, Hawaii
One of our favorite ways to to travel is to rent a vacation home and stay for a few days. It’s a great option when traveling with kids as you generally have more space and can cook some meals at home, without always having to rely on restaurants or take out. One of the most unexpected surprises of our vacation rental in Maui was access to a private beach. My son’s favorite memories of Maui are of running from the ocean in his pajamas every morning. – NKC
Now, we really wish we were headed to a beach vacation.
As Catherine has posted before, attending Mass on vacation is one way in which we regularly immerse ourselves in the local culture when traveling. When traveling, I also jump at any opportunity to visit local schools or villages, such as our visit to the Ndebele homestead in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. During our recent visit to Costa Rica, I was thrilled to celebrate Easter at the local Catholic church and also to participate in a service project in conjunction with Crescendo Juntos, a nonprofit organization dedicated to increasing access to education and training in the Guanacaste district.
Easter Mass at San Antonio Padua
One of our first orders of business upon arriving in Costa Rica was to check with the Concierge regarding the nearest Catholic church and times for Easter Mass. As I mentioned in my review of the Andaz, the Concierge was extremely helpful. Not only did they have this information readily available, but they gave us advance warning that it would be an open air service.
On Easter Sunday, we got dressed and drove to San Antonio de Padua in Playa Hermosa. Located approximately 30 minutes from the hotel, it was an easy drive and we arrived with plenty of time. I was delighted to see that the church was truly “open” – no closed walls. Although we’ve attended Mass in many different cities and even countries, I’ve never attended what was intended to be an open air mass (my unintended open air mass was Easter 2017, when I ended up outside the Carmel Mission with an angry toddler).
The service was conducted primarily in Spanish and the Priest and servers were extremely friendly and welcoming, although it was clear that very little, if any, English was spoken. My favorite thing about the Mass was that they chose Easter Sunday to be a baptism day for infants and young children. Typically, the 40 days spanning Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday are very somber and the only celebration is the welcoming of catechumens into the Church. I’ve never, in all my years, participated in an infant baptism on Easter Sunday, but I really appreciated welcoming these young babies into the Church. My children, having seen many infant baptisms, were also familiar with the service and I was glad for the opportunity to be part of the larger Church. Pro-Tip: Although the service was supposed to start at 10AM, it did not actually start until 10:15AM as one of the families who were participating in the baptism arrived late. Nobody seemed flustered or concerned, except for those of us who were clearly foreigners used to a rigid Mass start time.
Our Service Visit to Escuela Pacifica Garcia Fernandez
Prior to our stay at the Andaz, I learned that guests were welcome to bring backpacks filled with school supplies to donate to a local school. I immediately jumped at the opportunity and reached out to the Concierge at the hotel to schedule our visit.
The night before our scheduled visit, I received an email with directions to the school. The Concierge also delivered a printed copy to our room, complete with full color map, which was greatly appreciated. We were told that we would be met by an individual from Creciendo Juntos, who would help facilitate the visit.
The morning of our visit, we loaded up the kids (and our filled backpacks!) and drove the 30 minutes to the school. The individual from Creciendo Juntos met us at the front of the school and, unfortunately, she did not speak much, if any, English. The first 5 minutes or so of the visit did not go well, I’ll admit. My preschooler had fallen asleep on the drive over to the school so he was rather cranky at having been woken up, and my older son was mostly just shy and feeling awkward and unsure of why we were there. And, the language barrier was really preventing us from communicating in any meaningful fashion.
After a few harrowing minutes of trying to communicate, the volunteer took us straight to the English teacher’s classroom – hallelujah! The English teacher took over and introduced us to the group of fourth graders she had in her classroom and had us exchange introductions with the students. We played a rousing game of hot potato and then the teacher suggested that we take the kids outside for some soccer. The soccer game really broke the ice and my son had a great time. The kids played soccer for about 20 minutes and my son was quickly red-faced from the heat and humidity. While my oldest played soccer, the Creciendo Juntos coordinator took my youngest to the kindergarten classroom, where he enjoyed playing with the classroom toys. When the kindergarten kids came back, we moved to the playground, which my son also enjoyed.
At some point, the bell rang and I realized that recess was over. Not wanting to further disrupt the kids from their school day, we signaled that it was time to leave. The English teacher brought us back to the classroom where my kids had the opportunity to present their filled backpacks to two children who had been selected by the teachers to receive the backpacks. Check out this PDF on the Creciendo Juntos Volunteer Program for more information.
We really enjoyed our visit with the school and my older son said, on a number of occasions, that he had a great time playing soccer with the kids. I wish we had been given more information prior to our visit. I learned, after the fact, that we could have prepared a short lesson or project to do with the kids. With the benefit of hindsight, I would have loved to have done a little presentation on Washington, DC and come prepared with photos or mementos to share with the children. It was awkward to just show up with our backpacks, but we really had no idea what to expect. Overall, the experience was a positive one and I am glad we did it. The Creciendo Juntos coordinator was extremely friendly, despite our language issues, and the school children and faculty were all welcoming and open to our visit.
Rincón de la Vieja is an active volcano located just 15 miles from Liberia. As one of six active volcanoes in Costa Rica, Rincón de la Vieja last erupted in 2017 and forms the highest point in Rincón de la Vieja National Park, a large conservation area. The Park also has a number of fumaroles and hot springs, which we gladly explored on our day trip to the Park.
Getting to Rincón de la Vieja National Park:
The Park has two entrances, one at Santa Maria and one in Las Pailas. We drove our rental car from the Andaz Papagayo to the Las Pailas park entrance, which we knew in advance would take about 90 minutes. Although we had purchased the GPS map of Costa Rica for our Garmin, the map kept directing us through windy back roads in Liberia. At one point, we were clearly in a residential area, and the road transitioned from paved-but-in-rough-shape to dirt. I quickly decided at that point that we should turn around and head back to the main intersection in Liberia. Luckily for me, I had just enough cell reception to google “getting to rincon de la vieja,” and I was able to find this website, which provided us with the following set of instructions:
To Las Pailas sector: Coming from Liberia International Airport, drive to Liberia city (turn left out onto the main road from the airport). At the main intersection into Liberia (Santa Rosa plaza on your right, Burger King on your left, McDonalds in front of you), turn left. Drive about 3.5 kilometers and you will see many signs for “Rincon de la Vieja National Park Las Pailas sector.” Turn right into the entrance after the Ebais clinic on your left and continue on this road for about 20 kilometers to the national park entrance and the trail heads.
There is a parking lot where the administration office is, which is where you’ll buy the entrance tickets.
The website is dated March 2016, but I can tell you that the Ebais clinic no longer exists and there are not “many signs…” There may have been one sign directing us to the Park, but it certainly was not at the intersection where we were supposed to turn right. Pro Tip: I wish I had looked up the GPS coordinates as others report having more success using that method than simply entering the destination. The approximate GPS map coordinates of Rincón Las Pailas are latitude 10.773, longitude -85.3499.
Prior to entering the Park itself, we encountered a private road with an individual collecting toll to access. I was instantly thankful that my husband stopped at an ATM while we were trying to find proper instructions in Liberia because there is no way we would have been able to pay the private access toll to the gentlemen collecting the fee. Not only did he not speak English, but he also seemed a bit peeved that all we had were large bills (thanks to the ATM). The toll fee was 700 CR or approximately $1.25 USD per person. Note: he did not charge an access fee for the kids.
Once we were granted access on the private road, we continued the main road up to Park. Along the way, we passed a number of hotels and adventure outfitters, as well as quite a few podiums, which I quickly learned were for skydiving. We also passed a few groups of people clearly on a horseback riding tour.
What to do at Rincón de la Vieja National Park?
When we arrived at the Park, I was surprised to see this completely modern and beautiful building surrounded by a dirt parking lot with rather haphazardly parked vehicles everywhere. As we entered the building, I was pleased to learn that we could pay the fee via credit card in USD (which is what I did).
After paying the fee, I showed our tickets to a woman sitting at the desk, who wrote down our ticket numbers and time of entry. We also had to show these tickets when we left, which leads me to believe that this is how they track visitors to make sure they leave the Park.
Once inside, we used the modern facilities (which we sincerely appreciated) and my youngest took the opportunity to gawk at the snakes displayed in jars of formaldehyde.
There were fountains for filling water bottles and also hoses for rinsing off feet.
My husband and I took a quick inventory of the hikes available. There are a number of hiking trails in the Park, and there are quite a few that are accessible from the Las Pailas, which is why we chose Las Pailas. One of the hikes is an 8 km hike to the summit of the volcano, which was closed due to recent volcano activity.
Without any idea of what the hike to the La Canegra waterfall would be like, we decided that while 4.3 km (or 2.67 miles) might be a tad ambitious with our 3.5 year old, we should still give it a try and see how far we could get. Spoiler alert: we didn’t get very far.
The hike starts off easy enough with a wide open grassy path. Along the way, we passed the closed trail to the crater. Unfortunately, the path quickly turned hazardous and became not only rocky, but extremely steep and filled with branches. We were probably just 1/2 a mile in before I realized there was no way we were going to get down from the hike with our 3.5 year old intact, so we turned around.
Back at our original starting point, we decided to go on the third available hike: a 3 km (or 1.86 mile) loop around boiling mud pots. Having visited Yellowstone, my husband and I weren’t all too impressed by the boiling mud pots, but it was a first time experience for our kids and our 8 year old particularly loved seeing all the different fumaroles and volcanitos. Much of the path is paved and there are no steep climbs, so this was an easy walk for our family of four. Some portions of the path are shaded, which we appreciated, because it was very hot being out in the direct sunlight, especially whilst surrounded by active volcanoes.
Final Thoughts and Tips:
Our experience at the Park itself was slightly underwhelming, but I blame that largely on the fact that we could not hike to the waterfall or visit any of the hot springs due to having a 3.5 year old in our party. It was a nice way to spend the day, however, and my kids loved seeing the volcanic activity up close. Personally, I was thankful we had rented a car and were driving ourselves to Rincón instead of participating in one of the many shared tours offered through the hotel. The hotel’s prices for a trip to Rincon would have cost us $288 total ($98/adult and $46/child ages 3-10). While the tour includes roundtrip transportation, lunch, admission fee, and a bilingual guide, we would not have been able to do the hiking portion of the tour or would have had to split up because there’s no way my 3.5 year old could have lasted the entire hike. In fact, while on our less than 2 mile loop around the hot pots, we saw numerous family groups that were clearly on some kind of private tour similar to the tour offered through the hotel. Long story short, I was thrilled that our day trip to Rincón set us back only $37.50 out of pocket ($2.50 in private toll access and $35 for two adults and one child to enter the Park as children under 6 are free) and would recommend anyone traveling to Rincón consider renting a car and making the trip yourself as it is perfectly safe and manageable.
If you’re traveling to Rincon de la Vieja with kids, be sure to:
pack plenty of water, sunscreen, hats, and mosquito repellent,
wear breathable clothing as it can be very hot (it was in the high 90s when we visited and we were all boiling by the end of our walk around the fumaroles),
bring your passport as it is required to purchase your admission ticket to the National Park,
use the facilities located at the entrance as there are no facilities later on, and
be prepared for anything. As we finished our walk around the fumaroles, we saw that the trail to La Canegra was closed without warning or explanation. It would be a huge disappointment to head up there hoping to climb La Canegra only to find the path closed.
With so many miles of coastline, there are so many breathtaking Central America beaches and South America beaches to visit with kids. As an added bonus, they are pretty accessible for US travelers. We have traveled to Costa Rica but desperately need to explore the region more. Here are some of our fellow family travel bloggers’ recommendations for best beaches in Central America and South America with kids.
Best Beaches in Central America With Kids
#1: Ambergris Caye, Belize
Ambergris Caye is lined with white fine sand beaches. Now slowly being developed, there are some small hotels and residences, rather than a row of large, high-rise hotels and condominiums. The beaches are less crowded and most times, we found only a couple of people relaxing in the shade of the coconut trees. The water is aqua green and filled with sea life. Protected by the world’s second-largest reef, the calm, warm waters are great for kids to wade in and snorkel right off the shoreline. Local vendors sell local hand-made goods, and the general pace of life is very laid back.
Visitors are able to snorkel among nurse sharks, eels, rays, and a variety of tropical fish while appreciating the structures and sights of the coral. Searious Adventures offers packages from half day snorkeling to full day excursions both at sea and on the mainland. A single road that is not well maintained connects the Caye. Visitors can travel around by golf cart, water taxi, or hotel boats. The town of San Pedro, while a bit grimy (but safe), has some solid restaurants and shops, including handmade chocolates and soaps.
When it comes to traveling with our young family, the beautiful beaches of Costa Rica have been one of our favorite spots. We loved our adventure in Mal Pais, Costa Rica, which is known as a surf destination on the Costa Rican Pacific coast. The beaches are expansive and great for little ones to wander and play in the sand. Although perhaps not known as a “family destination,” Mal Pais and neighboring Santa Teresa were so welcoming to our little family! This area boasts lot of fun outdoor adventure and has seriously some of the best restaurants I have ever been to!
Of course, as a surf destination, the water is rough, so keep that in mind if you are traveling with kids. We traveled with a 6-month-old and a 3-year-old, so they weren’t doing much ocean swimming. We rented a Villa with a pool to get our water fix. If you have older kids, surfing is a blast! Definitely check out some beginning lessons, which are fun for the whole family.
Recommended by Kate from Tear Free Travel. Find out more from Kate about Mal Pais.
#3: Playa El Coco – San Juan Del Sur, Nicaragua
San Juan Del Sur is the most popular beach destination in Nicaragua. It’s a short drive from the Costa Rica border, and conveniently connected to Ometepe Island and Granada. The tourist numbers mean that it is well suited to families, with many cafes and restaurants that line the beachfront. It’s a very wide beach, so there is plenty of space for the kids to run around. There is also a range of affordable accommodation options. Famous for its sunsets, make sure to dine on the beach at least once during your stay.
The best family beach for a day out is a short drive from San Juan Del Sur – Playa El Coco. This beautiful and secluded beach is situated in a U-shape, which means that the waves are much calmer than other nearby beaches. Being a little away from San Juan Del Sur, the beach is not crowded and the wide sand area makes it a perfect family day out, where visitors can enjoy activities such as horse rides, soccer, and beach volleyball.
Playa Samara is an idyllic, off the beaten path little beach town on the Western side of Costa Rica. It is sheltered by a bay and a large coral reef. Situated where the Pacific Ocean water deepens very gradually, the waves are small and friendly for the littlest swimmers. The sand at Playa Samara is soft and not rocky at all. There is a good variety of hotels and restaurants on and near the beach for convenient access for naps and other mid day breaks (and for a beachy cocktail every now and again for mom or dad!). For visitors who want to get out and about, there are a number of tour companies in Playa Samara that can easily arrange family tours. There are suitable tours for all ages, ranging from adventurous to tame. The town itself is small and there really are no big resorts, so it has a very laid back feel to it. Its small size also makes it easy to get around with kids.
There are few places in the world where visitors can feel like they have a pristine beach all to themselves. Those who visit South Water Caye in Belize, a teeny island in the Caribbean Sea dotted with palm trees and soft white sand that a five-year old can circumnavigate in about 20 minutes, will feel like they are the only human beings in the world. The water is clear and shallow near the beach, and it’s easy to sit back and relax and let the kids splash in the cool water and look for crabs in the sand. Those who tire of being in the water can kayak around the island and spot rays and fish. My kids loved the beach at South Water Caye, and it’s high on their list of places they want to revisit one day.
Recommended by Terumi Pong from An Emerald City Life. Find out more from Terumi about South Water Caye With Kids.
Best Beaches in South America With Kdis
#1: Bendita Beach – Cartagena, Colombia
On our last visit to Colombia, we went to Cartagena. Located on the Caribbean coast and hot year-round, the beaches there aren’t the prettiest. But, the Rosario Islands are just a short boat trip away and they boast pristine, warm, and calm water beaches.
We visited Bendita Beach, which is a bit far from the others and still in need of development – but that meant that it was just as it should be: clean, clear, and perfect! It’s a perfect beach for families with kids! There are almost no waves and super calm clear blue waters, filled with little fishes. For newbies at snorkeling, it was just great! When we were there, we were the only ones on the whole island: a paradise!
Ilha Grande in the South of Brazil was a pleasant surprise for us. From the very beginning we fell in love with the island. There are no cars on the island, and boats are the main method of transportation. The many Atlantic Ocean beaches are beautiful and sandy with crystal clear warm water and very friendly people. The lush jungle has butterflies and birds flying around.
Unlike some places in Brazil, Ilha Grande is a safe place. Its very clean beaches are great for children as it is covered in soft sand and surrounded by calm warm water. It’s almost like swimming in a pool. There are small fish swimming around, and no dangerous animals. We enjoyed several walking trails on Ilha Grande, both through the jungle and along the beaches. There are several hikes that are short and easy for children, who will enjoy watching small cute monkeys and squirrels in the forest. The island doesn’t have a party vibe, but there are many restaurants and cafes that serve local and European food.
Recommended by Campbell and Alya from Stingy Nomads. Find out more from Campbell and Alya about Ilha Grande.
Visiting Fun Family Beaches With Kids
We’d love to visit these best beaches in South America and Central America with our kids. Ready to hit the beach right now? Check out our Fun Family Beaches in North America, Asia, Europe and Australia.
I want to say I loved our week long stay at the Andaz Papagayo, but I didn’t. We had a lovely time in the water and spending our days together as a family, but for a high end resort, the Andaz Papagayo simply fell short in many respects. Dining is the most blatantly obvious shortcoming, but there were also some other issues, in particular, lack of available water equipment and more guests than servers/Concierge could accommodate. As the resort currently stands, I simply cannot recommend it.
That said, there are two groups for whom the Andaz might be the perfect fit:
If you are a Hyatt Globalist (the highest member status with Hyatt) with a significant points balance, it is possible to stay at the Andaz Papagayo for a steal. Rooms are 15,000 points per night and Globalist members receive free breakfast. In hindsight, many reviews of the Andaz Papagayo that I read prior to our trip were written by Hyatt Globalist members, which may well have softened the blow of the underwhelming dining options.
The Andaz Papagayo offers free food for children 5 and under. At each turn, people inquired as to our kids’ ages so they could comp meals – including for room service. If you have children under 5, this can be an incredible money saver, especially if you couple it with Hyatt Globalist status and/or points redemption.
Babymoon? The Andaz Papagayo can be a great spot for those looking for a baby moon destination (although Costa Rica is a zika risk area, so perhaps not). It’s only 30 minutes from Liberia Airport and it is a comfortable place to stay. With activities like strenuous hiking and ziplining likely out of the question, the Andaz Papagayo is the perfect spot for a couples getaway when expecting.
There are a few institutional improvements that must be made, however, before I can recommend it more broadly.
Improve the availability of water sports equipment at both the Andaz Beach House and the beach.
Improve the quality of food and drinks offerings at the resort. As I mentioned previously, I was so disappointed by our meals at Chao Pescao and Rio Bongo that we didn’t even bother trying to dine at Onda, the fine dining experience at the resort. Instead, we discovered The Dive Bar, which is located on the nearby Marina Papagayo. We ended up eating dinner at The Dive Bar three times in a row, because it was so much better than the food at the Andaz Papagayo. There is a free shuttle that runs from the resort to The Dive Bar on the top of every hour, so this is definitely something to consider if you are staying at the Andaz for more than a night or two. At one point, my husband and I joked that the Andaz should just hire the chef from The Dive Bar to cook at Rio Bongo.
Note: The Marina Papagayo also has a small convenience store which carries shelf-stable milk (and $7 avocados, but who is counting?). We were thrilled to discover this, as securing adequate milk for our growing boys had been an issue. During our stay, the store was open from 7am – 4pm, so be sure to pop down early if you’re in need of some small convenience items.
During busy season, the resort needs to increase its service staff. Although we never felt crowded on the beach or at any of the dining facilities or even around the resort, service at the restaurants was slow and we received lukewarm coffee drinks on at least two occasions. On more occasions than I can count, we had to call the Concierge multiple times to get a response. My husband was also frustrated that it took numerous emails and phone calls to confirm their surfing lesson, which should have been more seamless given that tour operator was partnered with the Andaz and the cost of the class was added directly to our account.
Although the resort may not have been intended to be a family destination, from the looks of things during our stay, families are flocking to the Andaz Papagayo. To accommodate families, the Andaz should offer more extended Cambi Kids’ Club hours, or at least change them from 8-4:30pm to 9-5:30pm so that parents can attend the Mixology Class (that finishes at 5) and/or stay at the Andaz Beach House until the last shuttle leaves just before 5pm. It would also be nice if the resort offered evening activities for families as once the sun goes down around 6:30pm, there isn’t much, if anything to do.
In addition to the institutional shortcomings and needed areas of improvement, the Andaz’s location on the Peninsula Papagayo eliminates it as a convenient landing spot for other destinations. It was a 1.5 hour drive from the resort to the Rincon de la Vieja and about an hour away from just about everything else we wanted to visit. And, there simply is nothing that you can walk to from the resort, so you would have to have a rental car or rely on the shuttle to get to The Dive Bar or the Four Seasons Resort.
With respect to the resort’s location on the Papagayo Peninsula, my husband was initially disappointed as the bay is extremely calm such that there is no breeze, at all. I had done the resort research in advance so I knew this was the case, but if you’re expecting crashing waves, don’t visit the Andaz. I personally appreciated the calm waters as my kids were safe in the water and my husband noted, after his surf lesson, that being on the other side of the bay would have resulted in relentless sun exposure and heat.
All that being said, there are some things the resort did well. The Concierge was amazing, both in terms of communicating in advance and getting our requests put in, but also in terms of making sure that we had what we needed and that our arranged activities were properly scheduled (once we got a hold of them on the phone). The individual employees who worked at the resort were also incredibly nice and friendly. It quickly became apparent to the servers at the Rio Bongo that my preschooler does not eat much, if anything, and they went out of their way to inquire as to whether there was anything they could offer him. I also appreciated the free valet parking (which made renting a car a no brainer for our family of four) and, if kids’ clubs are your jam, Cambi is a great free option for those with children between ages 4-12. The resort also does a heck of a job of spraying for mosquitoes. I don’t recall getting any mosquito bites while on property, but we all got eaten alive during our dinners at The Dive Bar, just a 10 minute drive away.
Would I go back?
No. I wouldn’t go back to the Andaz Papagayo, although I am happy to have experienced it with my two kids, ages 4 and 8.5. The beaches were prefect for our two and we had a relaxing and easy experience for our first trip to Costa Rica. Although we did not arrange for zip lining or other activities through the Concierge (with the exception of the surf lessons), those are many options and other families who were staying at the resort did do so, with strong praise. To be fair, it is possible that my husband and I are simply not resort people. Would it surprise you to learn that we spent an entire week at the Andaz Papagayo without ever dipping a toe in any of the swimming pools? It surprised me to see the crowds of people lounging by the pool when the beach was literally right there. So perhaps we just aren’t resort people and this was a good lesson for future vacations.
Stay tuned for more on our trip to Costa Rica, including our visit to Rincon de la Vieja, our Easter Sunday open air mass, our service visit to Escuela Pacifica, and our day trip to Diamante Eco Adventure Park.
Our week long stay at the Andaz Peninsula Papagayo involved significant beach time. Although some online reviewers have complained about the Andaz’s beach, the beach and Beach House ended up being perfect for our family.
The Beach:
The beach at the main resort is accessible via a steep set of stairs past the pool area. The beach itself is relatively small and includes a small, protected area, a rocky outcrop for snorkeling, and a launching area for water sports.
Although I had read many complains online about how the beach was a huge disappointment due to its size (and the black sand), it was perfect for us because my 3.5 year old could play in the water and even take part in a lot of the water sports. Indeed, while I didn’t feel comfortable taking my then 4.5 year old out on a paddle board in Maui, I had no qualms taking my current 3.5 year old out on a paddle board.I also appreciated that the beach had a drinks cart and free water and sun block lotion. Paddle boards, kayaks and snorkeling equipment were available for free, and you could also rent jet skis and water bikes. All told, the beach was the perfect place for us to spend a few hours every morning and then again in the afternoon. It was a short 5 minute walk from our hotel room and my preschooler absolutely loved it. Although there were no toys available for use (no beach toys or other beach items that little kids might want), we had packed our own bucket and shovel, so we simply brought those down to the beach and rinsed them off before returning to our room.
The Andaz Beach House:
As much as I enjoyed the beach because it suited our needs perfectly, the Andaz Beach House is probably one of my favorite places on earth. The Beach House is accessible only via shuttle bus / golf cart that runs continuously every 30 minutes between 10am and 5pm. It is a short 5 minute shuttle ride to the Papagayo Nature Center, where you transfer to a golf cart that takes you off road the rest of the way to the Beach House. Along the way, we caught a glimpse of the golf course.
As with the beach, the water at the Beach House was relatively mild, but it did have some waves, which provided more interest for my kids. On our first visit to the Beach House, the tide was high, so I was literally lounging in the water with a drink while my children played.
The Beach House offers a full menu of food and drinks and here, we had the best food and drinks during our entire stay at the Andaz.
My husband, in particular, loved the infused rum and I enjoyed many a Papagayo Margarita. My oldest tried a chocolate and vanilla shake, which was delicious.
If you don’t like to eat and drink in lounge chairs, there’s a covered dining area.
When the kids got tired of playing in the water, there was giant Jenga and also a bucket filled with sand toys at their disposal.
Overall, the Beach House gets a definite two thumbs up. We loved it so much we made a point of scrapping other activities to spend another afternoon at the Beach House following our initial visit.
Water Activities:
At both the beach and the Beach House, there are complimentary kayaks, paddle boards, and snorkeling equipment for use. Unfortunately, both my husband and I agreed that the limited availability was something that needed improvement. Each location stocks two paddle boards and a few kayaks. There was frequently a long wait for paddle boards and/or kayaks. In fact, one morning, I was at the beach for two hours with my youngest and saw a kayak class paddle off into the bay. The resort had transferred over extra kayaks to accommodate the large group (of maybe 8-10 kayakers), but the “instructor” did not have a kayak available, so he took one of the paddle boards. That left one paddle board on the beach for over an hour. It did not bother me, but there were quite a few grumbles on the beach. The resort should provide at least four paddle boards at each location, so that a couple or father/son/mother/daughter duo can paddle board at the same time, without facing a major wait.
On our first visit to the Beach House, the water equipment rental station was simply closed. There was nobody present the entire 2.5 hours we were there. This is definitely a staffing/equipment issue that needs to be addressed.
The resort also offered jet skis and water bikes for rental. We did not partake, but water bikes were $50 for 30 minutes, or $90 for one hour. Had my oldest been older, I would likely have rented a water bike.
The individuals working the equipment rental stations are all employed by Swiss Travel, which offers extra excursions. From day long bay cruises to surfing lessons, the bay is your oyster! My husband and oldest son decided to sign up for surfing lessons. The two hour beginning surfing lesson was just under $400 for the two of them, and they had an amazing time. A boat picked them up from the resort beach and took them over to Playa Iguana, where, evidently, there is just the right amount of waves for a not quite 9 year old to learn to surf for the first time. My husband reports that they had an amazing experience, and it was worth every penny, although he did find it to be somewhat of a hassle to set up – multiple emails and phone calls before they could confirm the time.
With regards to snorkeling, neither the beach nor the Beach House ended up being good snorkeling locations. The only semi-interesting snorkeling spot near the beach happened to have jellyfish and I had no interest in taking my children over there. In fact, at least two other little kids got stung one morning while we were on the beach, so I definitely stayed away following that. Without any coral and given the relatively calm waters, there was nothing that we could have seen while snorkeling that we could not see by just looking down in the water. This was fine by me, given that we had a not-quite 4 year old who was happy to just look at the puffer fish with his goggles.
The Papagayo Nature Center:
The transfer point from the shuttle bus to the golf cart is the Papagayo Nature Center, which happened to be open during one of our “layovers.” Although small, the Nature Center is essentially a collection of all different types of species of small animals on the Peninsula. In the few minutes we waited for an available golf cart, my kids enjoyed seeing the shed snake skins, seeds, branches, and other kinds of critters that were displayed on the table. The naturalist helpfully joked that the large snakeskin pictured below was found at the Andaz (or at least I hope he was joking!).
Although we did not have a chance to explore, there were also bikes available for use outside the Nature Center.
Final Thoughts:
I really loved the beach and the Beach House, and for people who are decidedly not beach people, we ended up having a great time. I loved that my kids could play in the water by themselves, and I did not have to be within arm’s reach the whole time. We never felt crowded, and service was impeccable (with the exception of the time closed equipment rental at the Beach House on our first visit).
My little one practiced using snorkeling gear and swimming, we built sand castles and experimented with kayaks and paddle boards, and thoroughly enjoyed the food and drinks that we ordered at the Andaz Beach House (we did not have occasion to order drinks at the beach).
The Andaz Peninsula Papagayo opened in late 2013 and over the past few years, I’ve read numerous online reviews about how magical the resort is as a couples and family destination. One of the biggest values to the resort is that even though rates for a standard room can be as high as $1,150 per night during heavy tourist season, the same room can be reserved for 15,000 Hyatt points (which we have in an abundance thanks to the 1:1 transfer ratio from Chase Ultimate Rewards).
Booking our Reward Stays:
After we made the decision to venture down to Costa Rica for our Spring Break 2018 trip, I jumped onto the Hyatt website where I was unable to reserve a suite (which goes for 24,000) due to lack of availability. I quickly decided that I would just go ahead and reserve two standard room for only 6,000 more points per night, thus giving us more flexibility given that we would be traveling with a newly potty trained 3.5 year old. Moreover, my husband is a Chase Hyatt card holder which comes with one free category 1-4 night per year, and we were thrilled that we were able to use the “free night” for one of our nights at the resort. All told, we stayed 14 nights (two rooms for seven days each) at the Andaz Papagayo at a cost of 195,000 points (one “free night” + 13 nights at 15,000 points per night). As an added bonus, the resort fee of $50/night is waived on award stays, and valet parking is complimentary, so I was excited that our accommodations would not cost us anything out of pocket.
As I mentioned before, I corresponded via email with the Concierge on numerous occasions between December 2017 and up to the week prior to our stay to inquire as to adjoining room availability and suite availability. Unfortunately, nothing opened up so we ended up in two separate, but next door king rooms. I was pleased at check in to learn that we were put on the third floor of Building 3, which provided us with a glorious view of the bay. Although some online reviews indicate that a third floor bay view room is an upgrade, it was not something we requested, and we were not informed that this was an upgrade. If this is important to you, be sure to check with Concierge prior to your visit.
I was pleased with the booking process and to be honest, I have never had more helpful Concierge at a hotel. Having experienced numerous hotel mix ups when booking multiple rooms and/or a combination of award/free/paid stays, I had low expectations and instructed my husband to arrive with hard copies of my email exchanges with the Concierge. I was thrilled (and relieved) to report that there was absolutely no issue with the rooms, and they had even set up a twin mattress in one of the rooms, as requested, so that our family of four could all sleep in one room.
The Accommodations:
Our bay view rooms were spacious and came equipped with everything we expected: bed, complimentary mini bar with non-alcoholic drinks and snacks, closet, sitting space, and patio. But, the definite high of the room was the amazing shower that opens up onto the patio and overlooks the bay.
The patio itself provided us with almost complete privacy, and I never felt uncomfortable or exposed when out on our patios. That said, I noticed, on one of our many walks down to the main dining area and the beach, that some of the patios are open and exposed to the public. My husband and I both noted separately that we greatly preferred the privacy afforded us on our patios and were grateful for our placement.
On the day of check in, we noticed that the air conditioning in one of our rooms was not working as well as it should. And, the mini bar was not keeping anything cold either. We called maintenance the next day, and they quickly sent some one over to address the issue, but I’ll be honest: that room never seemed to fully cool down and the fridge never really got cold. We ended up spending most of our time in the other room as a result.
The Grounds:
It’s clear no expense was spared in designing the grounds. The drive to the resort is lovely – with expansive grass and beautiful palms. There are a few security checkpoints you must pass through to enter the resort – it’s really nothing more than rolling down your window and informing the guard that you’re staying at the resort and providing your room number. By the end of our week long stay, they recognized us and our vehicle and would welcome us back on each return.
There are a number of signs directing traffic throughout the resort which serves as a handy spot for sunning reptiles.
The resort is built on a hillside so there is quite of bit of steep walking. Many reviews we read online suggested requesting a room in one of the lower buildings (Buildings 5/6/7 which are on the same level as Rio Bongo, the main restaurant) to eliminate having to walk up quite as many stairs. We honestly did not find the hills to be a challenge, and our 3.5 year old ran around the resort without any issues. There are numerous golf carts parked throughout the resort and plenty of employees who are always offering a ride to wherever we wanted to go. With the exception of when we checked out with all our luggage, however, we did not take any golf cart rides around the resort.
The Concierge:
The main lobby of the hotel was set up with numerous stands and clearly identifiable Andaz employees who were always willing to help or answer questions. As I mentioned earlier, I had a great experience corresponding with the Concierge and we even requested their help in setting up a service project with the kids (more on that later) to take place during our visit. Although there were always plenty of people willing to help in person, on a number of occasions, we had to call multiple times to reach a concierge by phone. Whether we needed to request that our car be brought up from valet, or call because of a maintenance issue (such as the AC in our room), both my husband and I experienced frustration when our calls when unanswered. On the day of our check out, we called four times before someone picked up the phone. I personally think four times is too many times to have to call to reach a live person.
The resort publishes a weekly newsletter (“Pura Vida News”), which contains the week’s schedule of activities and classes. Although the schedule can change, I compared a copy I received of the January 15-21, 2018 schedule with the April 2-8, 2018 schedule and confirmed that the activities generally stay relatively consistent (note the $1 price increase for kayaking and snorkeling lessons from January to April). Initially, I had planned to sign my husband and I up for both the Barista and Mixology courses, but after our relatively lackluster dining experiences, we decided to skip the classes.
Resort Dining:
The main area in which the Andaz disappointed was in dining. There are three restaurants: Rio Bongo, Ostra, Chao Pescao. Rio Bongo is centrally located on the resort and is where the breakfast, causal lunches and dinners take place. Chao Pescao is the mid-level restaurant, which the concierge described as “tapas, but in larger sizes.” Ostra is the resort’s signature restaurant.
We dined at Rio Bongo on a daily basis – every single morning for breakfast, twice for lunch, and once for dinner. We were given a choice of the full breakfast buffet (including hot and cold stations) for $32/person, the continental breakfast for $19, or ordering off the menu a la carte. Children 5 and under dine for free and children under 12 get 1/2 off the breakfast buffet price, so we did appreciate that.
The food was adequate, but not compelling. In fact, my husband and I both mutually agreed that the full breakfast buffet was simply too expensive for what they were offering (the hot station included made to order eggs, omelettes, and other pre-made food items. It did not include any seafood or meat carving stations, like you might find at the Sunday Buffet Brunch at your local “fancy” hotel) and so we just ordered a la carte each day. As we were staying there during the resort’s busy season, service was frequently an issue. The servers were all exceptionally friendly, but just overwhelmed. For instance, on least two occasions, the coffees/cappuccinos we ordered from the coffee bar were lukewarm by the time we received them.
Although we weren’t impressed by Rio Bongo, we did decide to try Chao Pescao on our second night at the resort. While the food was “fine,” at $30+ per entree, I expected more than just “fine.” Moreover, when the server came back and asked my husband how his $14 cocktail was, and my husband responded that it was “a bit too sweet,” the server’s only response was “oh, I’m sorry.” During the course of our stay, we ordered a handful of cocktails during lunch/dinner at Rio Bongo and Chao Pescao, and our mutual agreement was that the drinks were too sweet. Curiously, we did not have the same experience at the Beach House, where we loved our cocktails. In fact, the Papagayo Margarita may be one of the most lovely things I’ve ever touched my lips to.
At the end of the day, my husband and I both agreed that the food had to be either better or cheaper. Because of our mediocre experiences at Chao Pescao and Rio Bongo, we decided to forgo visiting Ostra, as we likely would have had to hire a babysitter for the evening in order to fully enjoy the experience. We weren’t confident that the resort could pull off a fine dining experience, so we simply decided to skip it.
I had high hopes for dining at the Andaz Papagayo, but it appears it has underwhelmedin the past. Dining is one of my favorite things about travel and vacation and if you feel the same, then I simply cannot recommend the Andaz Papagayo.
The Onda Spa:
Although our dining experiences were lackluster, the resort’s Onda Spa did not disappoint. A few days prior to our scheduled arrival date, we received an email from the Concierge, alerting us to special spa offerings. My husband encouraged me to go, and I decided to go ahead and book myself for the Women’s Day special – 45 minute massage, 45 minute body scrub, 30 minute mini summer facial for $180. The facility itself is gorgeous, with the main reception area set up and apart from the rest of the resort, with a gorgeous view of the entire area. As I completed check in, I was presented with a welcome cold chamomile tea and chilled towel with essential oils – both greatly appreciated as my body was having a difficult time adjusting to the hot weather.
After completing check in, I wandered down to the changing rooms, which were very well appointed.
I spent only a short time in the steam room before heading out to check out the Tranquility Pool. Although I did not get into the pool, I enjoyed watching the monkeys playing both around and in the water.
A short time later, I was taken back to one of the nine treatment rooms. I was blown away by how spacious and beautiful the individual treatment rooms were. Each room is equipped with two treatment beds that open out onto a porch, a soaking tub, an indoor shower, and an outside shower (yes, TWO showers). Although my husband is not a fan of spa visits, this would be a truly great way to spend an afternoon with your partner. My treatments started on time and ended on time and overall, I thought the experience was well worth the $180 + gratuity. Treatments scheduled and confirmed prior to arrival are eligible for a 20% discount per treatment (non-combinable with other promotions or packages), so if this is something you’re interested in, I highly recommend advance booking. You can cancel four hours prior to your scheduled appointment time (or the day prior if you have a morning appointment), so there’s really no harm in scheduling an appointment in advance for when you think you might be in the mood for a massage or other treatment.
Although I did not have the time to go back, the gym and steam rooms are always available for use for all visitors. My husband popped down to the gym at one point to check it out and reported that it was just like any other hotel gym – nothing special. I wish I had made the time to visit the steam room on at least one additional occasion, but alas, vacation is never long enough.
Cambi (The Kids’ Club):
Cambi, the Kids Club, was one of the many reasons why we chose to stay at the Andaz Papagayo. Cambi offers free enrollment for kids from 4 – 12 years old and is open from 8am – 4:30pm daily. As with the resort, there’s a weekly newsletter of activities.
We visited Cambi on the first full day of our stay and met the women working there. They were extremely nice and took the time to get to know our kids, while I completed the necessary paperwork so that my kids could go and play during our stay. We ended up enjoying our time on the beach so much that we did not go back to Cambi until the day of our departure, when we dropped our kids off for an hour so we could pack in peace.
Although enrollment is limited to children that are at least 4 years of age, parents are free to bring their younger children and spend time with them at Cambi. There was a room with soft pillows for napping and changing tables and other items were available for use. Food is not provided, but you can order food ahead for delivery to Cambi.
The resort offers babysitting services for children from 12 months to 12 years old between the hours of 8am and 10pm (2 hr minimum required). Advance reservations are required, especially if you need care while Cambi is open (to ensure availability of sitters). The charge is $20/hr for 1-2 children, $40/hr for 3-4 children. Babysitting is also available after 10pm, but the price doubles.
Our stay happened to coincide with Easter, and the resort did offer a few additional activities for children at a fee.
Although I was intrigued by the Easter Sunday Cambi Night offering, I decided very quickly to skip the egg hunt. Honestly, the thought of paying $28 for my two kids to hunt for eggs seemed a bit obscene while staying at a resort that costs $500+/night.
Overall, I really appreciated that Cambi was an option, even though we did not end up taking advantage of it much, if at all. I wish the resort would extend the Cambi hours to 5:30pm or even 6pm, because it would give parents the option of taking the Mixology course (which begins at 4pm and ends at 5pm) or staying at the Andaz Beach house until the last shuttle at 5pm, without having to worry about returning back to Cambi for pick up. In fact, one of the reasons why we chose against taking the Mixology Course was that in addition to paying the $40/per person, we would have to arrange for childcare as Cambi closes at 4:30. I feel like staying open just one extra hour isn’t too much to ask, even if that means delaying opening until 9am.
The Papagayo Peninsula, located on the North Pacific coast of Costa Rica, consists of 15 miles of coastline and 15 separate beaches. The Papagayo Peninsula is home to not only the Four Seasons Resort Costa Rica and the Andaz Papagayo, but also the Peninsula Papagayo, a collection of resort homes and Central America’s first environmentally friendly luxury resort and real estate project. Located only 30 minutes from Liberia Airport, the Papagayo Peninsula has become an increasingly popular tourist destination and, despite plans for new development, government mandate provides that 70% of the land in the Papagayo Peninsula must remain natural.
How to get to the Papagayo Peninsula?
There are a few options to get to the Papagayo Peninsula. Flying into Liberia Airport, which is only 30 minutes away, is the easiest option. But, it’s also possible to fly into San Jose International Airport and board a 40-minute flight hopper to Liberia (driving from San Jose Airport would be a 5+ hour long endeavor).
My own personal journey to the Papagayo Peninsula wasn’t quite as simple as I was traveling solo from Washington, DC with my two children (ages 3.5 and 8). Not only would it be my first time crossing international borders on my own with the children, but I was tasked with a long layover in Houston (4+ hours), some last minute check-in issues, significant luggage to haul and manage, and, most importantly, a 3.5 year old who doesn’t nap on the go (but who still very much needs his nap).
Preparing to Travel (Vaccines, Packing, Travel Insurance, Minor Travel Consent Form):
Months before our scheduled departure, I made an appointment with a travel vaccine clinic to ensure that my children were up to date on their needed vaccines. Luckily, they were both already vaccinated for Hepatitis A and B, but they both needed their typhoid vaccines for our trip (my husband and I were already vaccinated from our trip last year to Africa).
The weekend prior to our scheduled Thursday morning departure from Washington, DC to Liberia, I took a quickly inventory of clothing items and made sure that everything we needed was clean. Utilizing Catherine’s Ultimate Packing List, I was able to quickly identify what items we would need as I tracked down items throughout our house and began compiling them in my staging area: a laundry basket located in the corner of my bedroom.
My biggest concern, whenever traveling to a foreign country, is that I have sufficient minor first aid materials and basic medication in the event of illness. As a mosquito magnet, I’ve also developed my own “outdoor survival pack” that travels with us when appropriate.
Although the Nurse Practitioner at the travel clinic recommended that I look into travel insurance, given that we were traveling with young kids, I declined to purchase travel insurance for a few reasons: we would be staying at a resort that caters to international travelers, we have quality health insurance that covers us world wide, and we have premium credit cards that provide different levels of emergency health coverage, including the American Express Platinum Card which provides free medical evacuation coverage. Note: this was a personal decision to not purchase travel insurance for this specific trip. It is by no means a recommendation as to what you should do when faced with your own international trip.
As I was traveling internationally with children on my own, I insisted on having my husband complete a notarized minor travel consent form, identifying him as a parent of our two children and authorizing my travel to Costa Rica with both kids. I also carried with me a copy of his passport and his travel itinerary, indicating that he would be meeting us in Costa Rica for the week. Spoiler alert: I didn’t end up needing any of these documents, but I was happy to have them just in case and I wouldn’t risk traveling without them.
Our Fourteen Hour Long Travel Day:
The night before our scheduled 11am flight out of Reagan Airport, I attempted to check in, but despite entering our passport information, was informed that I could not complete the check in process as I needed to provide proof of our departure from Costa Rica. As you may recall, we had booked two one-way trips on different airlines, so I could not complete check-in until I showed a gate agent our return itinerary. As you can imagine, traveling solo with both kids and knowing that my husband would already be en route and unreachable by the time we were scheduled to depart Washington, I panicked just a little bit and barely got any sleep.
The day of our trip, I found myself packed and ready to go well before we needed to leave for the airport. Nonetheless, despite knowing I would end up with three hours to kill at the airport, I decided to just head to the airport to complete the check in process just in case. One quick 15 minute Uberx+Car Seat ride to the airport later, I found myself standing in front of the United counter. Luckily, there was almost no line and a very helpful agent checked our passports, confirmed my return itinerary, entered her magical override code, and before I knew it, we were checked in and waiting at our gate 2.5 hours prior to our departure time.
Our short three hour flight from Washington to Houston was a breeze, but I knew that I still had two big hurdles to overcome: our extended layover in Houston (4+ hours), and our late arrival to Liberia Airport, well past my three year old’s ordinary bedtime and likely without him having taken any kind of nap.
American Express Centurion Lounge to the rescue! Earlier this year, I decided to add the American Express Platinum card to my arsenal of travel credit cards. Although the card comes with a hefty $550 / year annual fee, the card’s benefits (including complimentary access to Centurion Lounges for the cardholder + 2 guests) were sufficient to outweigh the heavy cost and I was eager to try out a Centurion Lounge for the first time.
The Centurion Lounge was just what we needed. To enter, I just showed the hostess my Platinum card, Driver’s License (as proof of identity), and boarding pass and we were on our way. I quickly deposited my youngest in the empty kids’ room (he’s old enough to play independently, so as long as I can remain visual contact on him, I have no problems leaving him in an empty play room), deposited my oldest on a seat with his iPad, and went off to explore the food and drink offerings.
I must say, I thoroughly enjoyed the food and drink offerings, but I was disappointed that the food was geared exclusively for adults and there really wasn’t anything for children – not even milk.
We spent a total of three hours in the Centurion Lounge and my kids were happy and safely contained the whole time. Although they didn’t eat anything other than a roll from the buffet, they played and kept themselves occupied and I enjoyed the rare opportunity to have a cocktail and eat a meal in peace. The only out of pocket cost of this visit? The $2 tip I left the bartender.
With 1.5 hours left before our departure to Liberia Airport, I hauled the kids out of the Centurion Lounge and made our way to the gate. As they hadn’t had anything to eat yet, I simply stopped and grabbed them two slices of pizza, which they happily ate at the gate.
Our flight to Liberia from Houston was uneventful. The only complication was that my preschooler was beyond tired at this point as he had not napped at all. He was absolutely frenetic during our 3.5 hour flight and nothing would appease him, until he discovered the joy of tearing apart the in flight magazine. Although I don’t typically allow destruction just for destruction sake, I ended up letting him tear apart the in flight magazine page by page – I figured it was better than the alternatives – loud shrieking and kicking.
After he completely shredded the magazine, I requested a trash bag from the flight attendant and we burned another hour or so, just picking up each and every single piece of trash from the floor. As I was busy tying up the now completely filled trash bag and shoving it under our seat, I turned around and discovered that my little one had passed out sitting up in his seat. With less than an hour left of flying time, I knew deplaning was going to be rough, but I let him sleep and just hoped for the best.
Clearing Customs in Costa Rica and Arriving at the Andaz Papagayo:
Although I was juggling two rolling suitcases, an eight year old, a carry on backpack, a purse, and a sleeping 40 pound 3.5 year old, clearing customs in Costa Rica was a breeze. Although we were one of the last to get off the plane and arrived at Immigration when there was already a long queue in front of us, an immigration agent quickly came up to us, asked how many were in our party, and brought us to the front of the queue where there was an agent waiting to process families with children or special needs. We, along with two or three other families, were pulled from the long queue and processed very quickly, allowing us to enter Costa Rica and proceed to baggage claim. Note: My little one woke up crying while we were in line, and the immigration agent was very sympathetic. In between sympathetic comments and questions regarding where we were staying and the intent of our trip, she missed stamping my older son’s passport. If you’re a passport stamp hoarder, be sure to double check.
After obtaining our checked bag, we went through baggage inspection, and then exited to the public terminal space. I will admit, I was devastated to enter the public terminal space and not see my husband waiting for us. The fear that something had happened, or that there had been some kind of mix up that would require me to manage the kids and our baggage while attempting to track him down and secure transportation to the resort was almost more than I could handle at that precise moment. Happily, I looked beyond the automatic door and saw that he was just outside the airport’s entrance waiting for us. Whew. I learned later that even though there is plenty of land space around Liberia Airport, that the terminal parking is quite a bit away from the terminal and requires spotty shuttle transport. He decided to just drive to the terminal and park outside the exit door, but of course, he did not want to stray too far from the car.
The drive from the airport to the hotel was approximately 30 minutes. As it was well past 10pm local time at that point, it was dark. Luckily, with our long travel day behind us, our exploration of the Andaz Papagayo and the Papagayo Peninsula could wait until the next day.