Category: europe

  • Kids’ Blog: Norway

    Kids’ Blog: Norway

    Guest Blogger: Our kid blogger, 🙂 , is an eight year old boy who is a big dreamer. He loves outdoors, traveling, reading and climbing and is the sweet big brother to his six year old sister. More on 🙂 ‘s travels can be found on Instragram and Facebook.

    This summer, we went to Norway for one month. That’s the most northern country I have ever visited. For 10 days, we backpacked in the Lofoten Islands. They are northern Norway, above the Arctic circle. It was only mom, my little sister and me. The Lofotens were great because they were beautiful and also because we were a bit like adventurers. I am going to tell you about my four favorite things and my four funniest memories.

    My Four Favorite Things

    #1: Wild Camping

    Wild camping was really cool. We walked for two hours with our huge backpacks to find the best spot to camp. We were alone in the mountain. It was fun to wake up in the morning and to be in nature.

    #2: Munkebu Hike

    It was my favorite hike of all. The weather was great and sunny, we were even wearing only tee-shirts. We hiked along a lake and then there was a really long climb where we had to use chains and ropes to climb up. At the top, it was very, very beautiful.

    #3: The Midnight Sun

    When we were on Ramberg’s beach, we stayed up until midnight to watch the midnight sun. It was amazing. It is like a sunset where the sun goes down but then it goes back up before it sets, and there is no night. We took a lot of cool pictures under the sun, and it was fun.

    #4: Meeting other backpackers

    It was really cool when we met other hikers, and they talked with us. Once, we met two French women, and they shared a Norwegian dinner with us. We ate reindeer sausage, fishcake and caramel cheese (Brunost). It was very different, but very good anyway. After we played dices and cards with them. It was really cool!

    My Four Funniest Memories

    #1: Making Soup

    When we went wild camping, my sister and I went to the stream and fetched water. We brought it back to the tent to mom. But because the water was too muddy to make the soup, we filtered it in one of my sister’s socks. I must tell you it was a clean sock! It was really fun!

    #2: Finding Gas

    We looked for gas for the camping stove for 2 days. First, we went to a shop, we bought one, but it didn’t work. Then, a nice Norwegian man from the village gave one bottle to us. It was the right kind of bottle but it didn’t work. At the end, we exchanged bottles with another man on a campsite. People were really friendly with us, and after 2 days we could finally eat something warm!

    #3: Hitchhiking

    We hitchhiked 3 times during our trip, either to go to a camping site or a trailhead. It was funny because people driving by thought we were joking and were just waving at us! But each time, there was always somebody who picked us up. They were really kind.

    #4: The Heads of the Dead Fish

    In Norway, they dry fish outside, with the wind. We went to see the drying racks close up, but my sister didn’t like to see dry fish heads. When she saw that there were tons of dry heads on the floor and that we were walking on them, she sulked. It made me laugh a lot!

    It was the best vacation of my life. I was sad to leave Norway. Sometimes I still think about it when I am in class.

  • Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Barcelona is Spain’s “second city” and a mesmerizing blend of Gothic and Modernism styles.  In contrast with the Gothic Quarter, many of Barcelona’s monuments were brilliantly designed by master architect, Antoni Gaudi, who is best known for Catalan Modernism.  As the capital of Catalonia, this vibrant and beautiful city has unique language, history and culture and was an amazing city to explore for a few days with our infant son.

    We traveled to Barcelona as a side trip from London, where we had been visiting family.  My husband and I chose Barcelona because neither of us had been to Spain or visited the Mediterranean.  Barcelona was particularly alluring because of its distinctive architecture, particularly Sagrada Familia. Because there are always a plethora of flight deals to major European cities from London, we were able to book a flight and hotel package through lastminute.com.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in Barcelona with kids.

    Accommodations in Barcelona

    We stayed for three nights at the Hotel Villa Emilia, a boutique hotel with modern touches.  Hotel Villa Emilia is located just outside the city center in Barcelona’s most famous residential neighborhood, the Eixample.  The Eixample is a late 19th century development that means “the expansion” in Catalan.  We loved the quieter, residential atmosphere of this upscale area and didn’t mind that we needed to jump on the nearby Metro for a stop or two to get to the main tourist areas.

    Eating in Barcelona

    The thing to remember about traveling to Barcelona with kids is that everyone eats dinner late.  Dinner before 8 pm is challenging, at best.  Most restaurants do not start serving dinner before 9 pm, and 10 pm is definitely more of the typical dinner time.  Before dinner, many people enjoy tapas – small savory plates served with drinks – at bars.   Our newborn rarely slept for more than a few hours at a time, so even though he did not have a “bedtime”, my husband and I were definitely sleep-deprived and ate at Chinese restaurants two nights of our trip simply because that was all we could find open early.

    While evening dining may have challenges if you are traveling with kids, we had several amazing fixed price lunches that were delicious and extremely reasonable. Our favorite was 4Gats, a historic restaurant meaning “four cats” that Picasso frequented around 1900.  My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous fixed-price lunch that included a bottle of wine.  Our son enjoyed a “cat nap” in his stroller while we ate.

    Transportation in Barcelona

    We mostly traveled by the Metro, which is one of Europe’s best.  It was fast and efficient but not built to be stroller accessible.  We quickly became experts at handling the stroller with stairs and escalators – so much so that I have admittedly taken strollers on escalators in the US when there was not an obvious alternative – despite all those signs indicating not to do so.

    We saw bikes for rent all over the city, which have now become popular in the US as well, but at the time, it was pretty novel, and something we had never seen before.

    Language

    The official languages of Catalonia are both Spanish and Catalan.  It is surprising to learn that Catalan is the first language of most Barcelonans, and schools are required to conduct classes in Catalan.  However, all adults speak Spanish as well.  We have some limited Spanish skills but never had language barrier issues.  Everyone in the tourist industry spoke fluent English, and English menus were available in restaurants.

    Things to See in Barcelona

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (Holy Family Church) is Antoni Gaudi’s still unfinished masterpiece of Catalan Modernism architecture and the icon of Barcelona.  Sagrada Familia was never intended to serve as the seat of a bishop but definitely constructed in the scope and proportion typical of cathedrals and has been rated as the world’s most famous church.

    Francisco Paula de Villar was the initial architect when construction began in 1883.  Antoni Gaudi took over as architect in 1891 and worked on Sagrada Familia until his death in 1926.  Gaudi intended for Sagrada Familia to have a major impact on Barcelona’s skyline, and his masterpiece is one of the tallest religious buildings in the world with 18 spires planned to represent the 12 Apostles, Mary, the four Evangelists and Jesus (the tallest).

    Sagrada Familia is dedicated to the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary and Jesus.  There are three façades – the Nativity Façade that depicts the birth of Jesus, and the Passion Façade that shows the crucifixion of Jesus have been completed.  The Glory Façade, which will show the path to God, has not yet been completed.

    The Nativity Façade was the only part of Sagrada Familia completed during Gaudi’s life.  The Passion Façade was built according to Gaudi’s design, but does seem to vary in style from the original façade.  The only part of the church that was completed while Gaudi was alive is the Nativity Façade.  So, while Gaudi gets all the glory for this masterpiece, most of the church was actually designed by others.

    Nativity Façade
    Nativity Façade Detail
    Passion Façade

    While we did not purchase tickets in advance, it is highly recommended now that you buy your tickets online with a specific entry time to avoid the long lines.  We entered through the Nativity Façade, which will be a side entrance after the Glory Façade is completed.  Construction was very much ongoing on both the interior and exterior when we visited.  It is very common for cathedrals and monuments to require restoration work, and scaffolding has obscured the perfect picture of many cathedrals I’ve visited over the years.  However, it is quite exciting to witness the initial construction of a historic monument.  The only other time I had a similar experience was when I visited the Crazy Horse Memorial in 2002 and got to witness a rare blast first-hand.  I am always fascinated to see the progress of both monuments.

    The interior was very much under construction during our visit

    The colors of the stained glass are so brilliant and interesting.

    Modern technology and the funds from entrance fees have drastically helped construction.  The main nave was completed a few years after our visit, and the Pope held a consecration Mass in 2010.  The goal is to complete construction by 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death, but estimates show that it is likely to take a few years longer than that.

    I have visited literally dozens of cathedrals around Europe, but Sagrada Familia is truly distinctive.  It is really surreal to visit this vast and awe-inspiring church.  After the York Minster, which will forever hold a special place in my heart, it is probably my second favorite church in the world and definitely one not to miss.  After our tour, we relaxed at a nearby park  to enjoy the view of the completed spires away from the crowds.

    La Rambla

    La Rambla is a colorful, tree-lined pedestrian mall between Plaça de Catalunya and Port Vell, is one of the most popular tourist destinations.  There are lots of shops and baskers lining the road, which was once under water.

    La Boqueria Market (Mercat de Sant Josep) is Barcelona’s food market located just off La Rambla.  It is also known as Mercat de Sant Joseph and is visually stunning.  since 1200, main entry is beautiful.  The market is colorful and visually stunning.  Because the stands near the front pay the highest rent, they also have the highest prices.

    The Columbus Monument is the 200 foot column honoring Christopher Columbus at the end of La Rambla.  This monument recognizes Columbus’ journey to Barcelona to report to Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand V after returning from North America in 1493.  The style of this pedestal, column and statue reminded me of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, which we also visited on this European vacation.

    Columbus Statue on the Top of the Monument
    View of the Columbus Monument from the Barcelona Cathedral

    Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic)

    The Gothic Quarter is the center of the old city with narrow, cobblestone streets.  These pedestrian-only streets are the perfect location for an afternoon stroll.  Picasso lived in this neighborhood around the turn of the 20th century.

    Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia/Barcelona Cathedral

    The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed between 1298 and 1450.  However, the front façade was ornately recreated around the turn of the 20th century to add an interesting blend of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture.  This Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona who was martyred here in the fourth century.  We enjoyed the view from the Cathedral’s roof, which is widely known for gargoyles.

    Church of Santa Maria del Mar is a 14th century Catalan Gothic church whose name means meaning “Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea”.

    Beaches

    We were not prepared with beach gear on this trip but did stop by at a beach briefly so that all three of us could dip our toes in the Mediterranean Sea.  Beaches are so close to the city center and well-loved by the locals.  Hop off the Metro, and you feel like you have arrived at a resort!

    Tibidabo

    We often go to the highest point of a city we are visiting to get the bird’s-eye view of an area.  So, we took a ride on the Tibidabo Funicular to the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  The view of the Tibidabo Amusement Park and the city was definitely worth the trip.  The Tibidabo Amusement Park opened in 1889, but many of the rides are originals with unparalleled scenery.  It was our son’s first amusement park and something definitely to add to your list if you are traveling with kids.

    View of Tibidabo Amusement Park and Barcelona from the summit of Mount Tibidabo
    Amusement park in the sky

     

    The Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor (Expiatory Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus) stands on the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  It was completed in 1961 in the neo-Gothic style with a statue of Jesus on top of the central spire.

    Why visit Barcelona With Kids?

    I was more nervous about this trip than any others because it was our first time abroad as parents.  Nonetheless, our infant son was a great travel companion during the four spectacular days we spent in Barcelona.  My son was exclusively nursed at the time, and we were pleasantly surprised that nursing in public was much more common-place and accepted than is was in the US at the time.  So many people on the streets stopped us to inquire about our son, often utilizing limited English skills or hand gestures to communicate with us.  There may have been occasional stroller challenges on the cobblestone streets, but nothing too challenging for us to overcome for families with young ones.

    Next time we go, we definitely won’t miss the Picasso Museum.  I have no idea why we didn’t put this on our list and wonder if we avoided it as newbie parents simply because we were traveling with our infant.  Now, I firmly believe that kids of any age are not too young for the art museum.

    Our son may have no memories of the trip, but FC Barcelona is his favorite soccer team.  Mere coincidence?

  • France: Hiking the Vosges Mountains With Kids!

    France: Hiking the Vosges Mountains With Kids!

    Guest Blogger:  Ophélie is originally from France but moved to Belgium from McLean, Virginia five years ago.  She and her husband have found that kids didn’t have to stop them from doing what they love.  Instead, they shared their passion for travel and the outdoors with their young son and daughter. Ophélie can be found on Instragram and Facebook.

    A hike in the Vosges in France with a donkey may not be a typical family vacation, but it was an absolutely amazing adventure that we encourage others to consider.  A decade ago (time flies), my now-husband and I went for a hiking trip in the Vosges mountains in eastern France. We loved the relaxing feeling of peace and freedom inherent to this region. Unlike the Alps and the Pyrenees, the Vosges are low mountains that culminate at 1,424 meters (4,672 feet) and are still exempt of any mass tourism. The mountains are characterized by the rounded shape of their peaks, called the ballons, which give them their peculiar softness. An immense forest covers 60% of the mountains and features mostly conifers. Yet, this quiet mountain offers a variety of landscapes, including lakes, wet and high altitude meadows, deep valleys, waterfalls, cliffs and rocks. The Vosges are the perfect place for a breath of fresh air and a paradise for outdoor and nature lovers.

    This summer we decided to hike in Vosges again and share this experience with our two children, who are 6 and 7 years old! To make the experience even more exciting and memorable, we decided to rent a donkey! More and more farms in France offer donkey-renting options. After some online research, we chose La Ferme Prés en Bulles, a few miles away from the city of Gerardmer. They offer many alternatives from half-day rentals to all-included tours with nights in country inns and half-board. Because we wanted to completely unplug from every-day life, we chose the bivouac, a temporary / wild camping option, that gave us three days of total freedom! Our trip included hiking, backpacking and wild camping through the Vosges forest as a family, with kids, dog and donkey (not talking about my husband this time)! It was a first for us, and we LOVED it! Here is our experience.

    Planning the Trip: an Adventure by Itself

    As always, packing is exciting! We involved the kids very much so that they were part of the whole adventure. We weighed everything to not overload our brave donkey! With only two small tents, four sleeping bags, camping stove, headlights, a small toiletry and safety kit, a map, limited clothing, food and water for 3 days – no toys or cosmetics, we were ready to go. It was both a fun and interesting experience for the kids to decide what were the essentials!

    D-day: Meeting our Donkey

    Hidden along the small, meandering roads of the Vosges mountains, we found the farm where we met Marie and Deil, the donkey owners. They introduced us to our donkey, Brimbelle (which means “blueberry” in the Vosgian dialect). For 30 minutes, the donkey-owners taught us how to take care of Brimbelle. They showed us how to gently curry-comb, brush, clean out the donkey’s hooves and how to place the packsaddle! They helped prepare the itinerary on the map and indicated the narrow trail sections that cannot be used. We saddled up Brimbelle, loaded the bags and were on our way!

    Hiking with Brimbelle was an awesome experience! We hiked about 10 kilometers (6 miles) each day, so 30 kilometers (18 miles) in total across forest, fields and villages. Donkeys are awesome travel companions, and Brimbell added a new dimension to the hiking adventure by motivating our children to hike along. Steady and gentle animals, donkeys bring a very relaxing and secure feeling. Our 6 year old daughter, who is usually super active, spent hours walking calmly alongside Brimbelle and cuddling her in the evening. Even our very energetic 1 year old Australian shepherd, Perle, seemed to be calmed by the presence of Brimbelle. Donkeys must have some magical soothing powers!

    Wild camping in Vosges

    The bivouac option offered us a lot of flexibility, so we did not plan in advance where we were going to spend the nights. We adjusted to everyone’s tiredness and began to look for a place to camp mid-afternoon, so we would have time to rest and play before the sun went down. We took time to look for a nice spot, so that each evening we could enjoy the sunset over the pine forest or the valley! We also looked each time for a place near a water source so that we could easily get water for Brimbelle and Perle. I loved to see how the kids felt responsible for the animals, taking care of them, bringing them water and always looking for the best spot of green grass for Brimbelle to graze!

    Wild camping with kids is an amazing experience for so many reasons. Being in the forest at night with no one else for miles around is exhilarating. Experiencing the total silence except from the wind and wildlife is priceless. Inevitably, it is a bit harder work than campsite camping. You have to walk in, plan more, pack enough food, and find a good spot – all the while staying safe, but it is a great family challenge. We made special memories that will last for a lifetime.

    Good to Know

    The law about wild camping in France is quite confusing (Article R111-33 and R111-34). However, in most French national and regional parks, free camping is tolerated from sunset to sunrise or from 19h to 9h (7 pm until 9 am) in a small tent in which you cannot stand. Fires are forbidden, but the use of camping stone is sometimes tolerated. Regulations are subject to change or interpretation depending on the region, the season, and the local habits. Make sure to check before going or ask the donkey-owners. They are amazing resources!

    Hiking with a donkey in numbers:

    • Donkeys can carry nearly 30-40 kilograms (65-90 pounds). They can carry small children of 3-6 years old if needed.
    • Donkeys walk steadily at a pace of 3 to 4 kilometers/hour (1.8 to 2.4 miles/hour)
    • Donkeys reasonably walk up to 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) per day
    • A 1/25,000 map of the area is a necessity, whether you buy one beforehand or purchase one from the donkey-owners.

    Renting a donkey costs 38€ ($44) per day. Prices may of course vary depending on the owners and the hiking region. Renting a donkey is becoming a popular added value of any family hike everywhere in France, with almost 300 professional donkey-owners registered. If you love animals and nature, that is an amazing way to discover the French countryside, slowly and peacefully! Either you choose the all-included option with nights in country inns, or the wild version with bivouac in the tent; travelling with a donkey is a truly unique family adventure, that your children are unlikely to forget!

    Pin it to Pinterest!

     

  • Kids’ Blog: Iceland

    Kids’ Blog: Iceland

    Guest Author:  Our kid blogger, Messi Jr., is a nine year old fourth grader who loves travel and soccer.

    My Iceland trip was awesome.

    Iceland Day 1

    On day one, as soon as my family and I got to the Icelandic airport, everyone was wide awake because we slept the whole flight.  When we got out of the airport, it was very cold and rainy.  My family and I got on the bus that would take us to a place that we would get a rental car.

    On the bus, I saw two strange things.  The first thing that was strange was that out of the window I saw rocks.  Some were the size of pebbles and others were the size of cars.  The rocks were all different shapes, but many were the size of backpacks. There seemed to be millions. And, there were planes and planes of them.  But, they were covered in something.  I didn’t know what it was so I asked my dad what it was, and he said it was moss.  I thought it was very strange, but I could believe it when I saw it.  The other thing I wondered about was the rocks.  When I looked closely, there were many holes.  I recognized it as a lava rock.  I wasn’t surprised since I knew from a book I had read about Iceland that it said that Iceland was formed by volcanos.

    Once we got off the bus, we went to a place where we rented a 4×4 car, which meant it can drive through harsh conditions.  With the car, we drove to the convenience store and bought some food that we ate at the shop for breakfast.  At the store, the Cool One and I both found coins.  The Cool One found a 1 krona coin, and I found a 2 krona coin.  Next, we went to Costco.  At Costco, we bought squeezies for my sister, water bottles for the car, Nutella to put on our bread for breakfast, and rotisserie chicken for our sandwiches.

    Before we ate lunch, we went to the lava tunnel, but the noon tour was full.  For lunch, we went to a nearby town and picked up some very yummy pizza, which we ate in the car heading toward the lava tunnel.  In the lava tunnel, we had to wear headlamps so we could see around the tunnel.  We learned that before headlamps and flashlights, all people saw in the tunnel was pitch black.  The only way you could see was from small holes on the roof.  We also learned that lava once rushed through the tunnel.  My sister was the youngest person to ever go in the tunnel.

    The next thing that we did was we drove, well we tried to drive to Kerid crater, but we drove into another crater.  In that crater, there were many lava rocks. We could also see all the layers of the crater.

    The next stop was Kerid crater.  The cool thing about Kerid is that the deep crater has a lake at the bottom of it.  My dad also said that Kerid was formed 6,500 years ago.  On our way to the apartment, my brother, sister and I took a nap in the car.  I thought that I had slept for the whole night!  We watched some TV, but it was only in Icelandic, so we didn’t understand a thing.  We tried to take a shower, but the drain was plugged, so that made it pretty challenging.  The day ended with everyone having a good night sleep.

    Iceland Day 2

    Once everyone had woken up and dressed up, we went to Seljalandfoss, which is a famous waterfall because you can walk behind it.  Seljalandfoss is a very tall waterfall.  When my family and I walked behind it, we got soaked, but it was worth it because it was amazing.

    As we were driving to Skogafoss, we saw Eyjafalljokul, which is a volcano that erupted a few days after my brother was born, which delayed my grandma from flying back to England.
     
    Once we were at Skogafoss, we saw a huge waterfall, and when the water hit the river it had been forming, mist shot up and formed a huge circle.
    We also saw a huge glacier that turned out to be the biggest glacier outside of the North and South Poles.
     
    In a bird sanctuary, we saw a few puffins.
     
    At Renisjfara beach, the sand was black!  It wasn’t just normal sand, it was volcanic sand!  We also saw a lot of basalt rocks.  There were also strong waves.  My brother, my dad, and I were standing about 2 yards away from where the waves end, then suddenly, a huge wave came and everyone started running, but I tripped over a big rock.  I fell down and before the wave went back in, my dad pulled me out.  I was wet, so I had to change all of my clothes.
     
    As we drove, we passed the beautiful city of Vik, but we didn’t stop.  The next place we went was Vatnajokull, which is the biggest ice cap (other than the North and South poles).  It was a very beautiful sight.
    The next stop was Jokulsaron.  One of the reasons Dad wanted to come to Iceland was to see this site.  Jokulsaron is a lake with icebergs.  The icebergs and lake come from a glacier that was constantly melting.  The ice on the beach was my favorite sight of Iceland.  On the beach, when Dad was taking a picture of my brother and me near the iceberg, as he walked backward to get a good shot of us, he tripped over ice and fell backward.  When he put his hand down to save himself, he went down so hard he broke the thick ice and hurt his hand a lot.
     
     
     We went as fast as we could to Hofn hoping to get to Hofn before the guesthouse closed.  hoped that we would make it in time so we wouldn’t have to sleep in the car.  Luckily, we just made it in time.  For dinner, we had pasta with rotisserie chicken.  Even though we tried our best to keep my sister quiet, she was still very loud.  We eventually got her quiet watching Netflix.  We had a good night of sleep.
    Iceland Day 3
    We woke up in the morning to nice blue skies, which ended up to be a nice, blue, dry, and sunny day.  We woke up so late that by the time my family woke up, everyone else in the apartment had left for the day.  My mom lost her ring that she was very sad about, but it was a good thing she found it later in the trip.  As we drove to Netto, we had an amazing view of a glacier.
    For lunch, we stopped on the side of the road where we saw a bench that overlooked the ocean.  We ate some of the food we bought at Netto.  My sister made a rock collection, which she loved and added to during the trip.  We stopped in a tourist office, and we got even more maps!  Next, we stopped on the side of the road where we saw a stream, and there was a wonderful view of everything around us.  My brother and I skipped a few rocks into the stream.
     
    As we kept driving, near a farm we passed, we saw amazing hovering birds.  My dad took a few photos of them hovering and trying to find food.

    As we kept driving along, we went into two tunnels.  One tunnel was 5 km, and the second tunnel was 6 km!  We stopped at Kronan where we got fish, fish stew, and French fries.  We spent the night in the fishing village of Eskijfordur.  We stayed in a very nice apartment.  For dinner, we had the fish and fish stew with the French fries, and we also had peas, and for dessert, we had ice cream.  But, that still wasn’t the end of the day!

    At 9:30, there was great weather as we were driving to the mine that was famous because it had the most spar crystals in the world.  We saw many animals running across the road.  Some were so close, the car could have ran over them.  Once we got to the walking path, we walked up a big hill seeing thousands and thousands of spar crystals.  The mine shaft was blocked off by the rocks, but there were still many spar crystals.  My sister, brother, and I made a huge spar crystal collection and left it on a rock.

    As we headed to our apartment, we saw the most amazing midnight sun we had seen on the whole vacation.  At end the day, we had a good night sleep.

    Iceland Day 4

    We woke up in the morning and had a quick breakfast.  We had a very quick breakfast because we wanted the maximum time at our first hot pot in Iceland.  It was a very cold day, which is the best pool weather in Iceland because every single pool is heated by natural magma and lava.  My family and I were the only people in the pool.  We all had fun on the slides, and when it was time to go, my sister didn’t want to get out.  The rest of the day all my sister wanted to do was go back in the pool.

    We had lunch in the apartment.  It was raining very heavily, and the sky was very ugly white and gray.  It was still raining, but we drove to Dettifoss, which is a popular waterfall.  On the way, we got gas and looked for reindeer, but we didn’t see a single reindeer.  Dettifoss was one of the best sites we saw in Iceland.  It is amazing how much water comes down.  My sister nearly walked the whole hike by herself to the waterfall.

    The first four days in Iceland were lots of fun.
  • Why You Should Visit Copenhagen With Kids!

    Why You Should Visit Copenhagen With Kids!

    Guest Blogger:  Lisa, the mom behind TwoTravelingTots, is an American expat living in Copenhagen, Denmark and traveling the world with her husband and two young kids.  From far off wanderlust destinations like Australia, Thailand and Philippines to more local jaunts like Luxembourg, Finland and Italy, Lisa has traveled to 30 countries and 49 cities with her little ones in tow. Having lived in Copenhagen for over 5 years, Lisa is here to tell us Why You Should Visit Copenhagen with Kids and share her Top 10 Things to Do  while there – with some Insider Tips sprinkled throughout. Follow her adventures, tips and tales on Instagram and Facebook. For her detailed tips on Copenhagen, check out #TwoTravelingTotsCPH on Instagram.

    Traveling with kids and babies is not easy! Trust me, I know. My family and I travel the world with our 4 and 1.5 year olds.  There are certain cities that make the experience enjoyable and magical for both parents and children alike.  Copenhagen, Denmark is one of those cities!  Denmark was ranked by the UN World Happiness Report as the happiest country in the world in 2016.  In recent years Copenhagen, has received world-wide recognition for its New Nordic food scene, Danish design, and hygglig (cozy) lifestyle; however, what isn’t widely known is how child-friendly this city is.  It almost feels like every aspect is geared to the reality that people have kids and they travel with them. These things make this city the perfect place for a family visit.  From the free strollers found throughout Copenhagen Airport and the Lego play areas at the luggage carousel, to the ease of using public transport with strollers to the countless kids’ activities and green spaces found throughout the city; life in Copenhagen with children is AMAZING!

    Copenhagen is in Scandinavia, so the weather isn’t always the best. Summer is by far the best time of the year to visit, with warmer and longer days (sun sets around 9:30 pm).  December is also a very special time of year to visit because of the Christmas markets, street decorations and festive moods. However, the days are shorter, darker, and colder (sun sets around 4pm).

    This post highlights our Top 10 Things to Do with Children while also including Insider Tips that we’ve learned throughout the 5 years we have lived here. You’ll also find section called “Good to Know Tips” for some general pointers about what kind of clothes to pack, the Copenhagen Card (which provides free entrances to many of the attractions), and public transport tips.

    Stroget, the Walking Street, dressed up for Christmas.

    10 THINGS TO DO IN COPENHAGEN WITH KIDS

    #1: TIVOLI GARDENS

    No trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to Tivoli Gardens, a fairytale-like amusement park located in the heart of the city said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Disneyland. It’s the second oldest amusement park in the world – second only to Bakken, another Danish amusement park located on the outskirts of Copenhagen. Tivoli is only open four seasons a year – the summer period (mid-March – mid-September), the Halloween period (mid-October to November), the Christmas season (Mid-November – December) and the winter season (February) (Please check exact opening times before you go). It is beautiful and magical all times of the year. The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance, and children under the age of 8 enter for free.

    Halloween at the Nimb Hotel in Tivoli Gardens.

    #2: CANAL TOUR

    Another favorite activity for parents and kids alike is the Canal Tour.  Copenhagen is located on a harbor, so on a beautiful sunny day there is nothing nicer than seeing the city by water.  This is also a good way to see the bronze statute of the Little Mermaid from the back (in my humble opinion, it is not worth your time to make a trip to see her as she is underwhelming small). You can catch the canal Tour at Nyhavn or Gammel Strand.  The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance to the Canal Tour but only at the Gammel Strand location.

    Insider Tip: Strollers are not allowed on the canal boats, so I recommend you leave them by the ticket counters.  I suggest investing in a simple flexible bike lock for your stroller so you can just lock it up wherever, and put your mind at ease.

    Nyhavn, originally a busy commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock, is now the perfect place to enjoy a canal ride.

    #3: ROSENBORG CASTLE

    A Royal Hermitage set in the middle of the City Center and the King’s Garden. It was built by Christian IV in the early 17th Century.  Not to be missed is the Crown Jewels Exhibit – my kids’ favorite.

    I recommend this castle because it’s not too big, easy to do with children and also in the heart of the King’s Garden. So, after a quick tour of the castle, you can set up a picnic in the King’s Garden, let the kids run around or visit the playground in the park.

    Insider Tip: If you visit mid-summer, you may be able to catch a free puppet show (currently Tuesday-Sunday at 2pm and 3pm located near the restaurant Orangeriet.

    #4: PLAYGROUNDS – INDOOR AND OUTDOORS

    Copenhagen can be an expensive city, so a visit to one of the many amazing parks located around town is a good free way for the kids to let off steam.

    Outdoor Parks

    The biggest open space park is Fælledparken located in Østebro. There are several different playgrounds located in this massive park:

    • “Mini Copenhagen,” just as it sounds, it’s a playground designed after iconic Danish buildings
    • A cycling park where kids can rent bicycles for free and practice riding on fake streets
    • Trampolines and swings
    • A skateboarding area
    • An outdoor gym both for kids and parents.
    • A free waterpark (open in the summers)
    “Mini Copenhagen”

    Superkilen, is another massive park located in the Nørrebro district.

    Superkilen

    Indoor Parks/Play Areas

    On a rainy day, which is quite often, try the FREE indoor playground called Remisen, located in Østebro, a short 10-minute bike ride or bus ride from the City Center.

    Remisen

    Ku.Be is another great indoor play area located in Frederiksberg; however, it is not free. There’s a climbing area and a café – great place for kids to get energy out.

    #5: COPENHAGEN ZOO

    The Copenhagen Zoo is a great zoo with elephants, hippos, polar bears, monkeys, giraffes and tons of other exciting animals. Also, there is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. If you don’t take your stroller, you can rent a wagon for the kiddos. There are also two different playgrounds, a petting zoo and designated picnic areas (you can bring in your own food!).

    Copenhagen Zoo

    Insider Tip: If a day at the Zoo seems too overwhelming or you’re short on time, try the Free Petting Zoo, ByOasen, in the Nørrebro district.

    ByOasen

    #6: EXPERIMENTARIUM

    Copenhagen’s new Science Center is fun for all ages, from little toddlers to parents! Two floors with 16 interactive exhibits from soap bubbles to a Labyrinth of Light to a Tunnel of Senses.  There is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. It’s located in Hellerup – a 15-minute bus ride from the city center.

    Experimentarium

    Insider Tip: It gets crowded on weekends, so go early. Also, if the café is too crowded, the Waterfront shopping center, located next door, has tons of eating options.

    #7: THE LAKES

    Another favorite is to walk or bike around the lakes that surround the city center. I love to pick up a coffee from Lagkagehuset and a free bread bun (boller) for the kids (see my tips below on “Where to Eat”) and take a nice stroll around the lakes. On a sunny summer day, we like to rent swans at Kaffesalonen and ride them in the lakes. They also have a great food menu!

    Rented Swans from Kaffesalonen

    #8: SMK – The National Gallery of Denmark

    This museum provides more than 700 years of Danish Art. Plus, every weekend there are special art workshops for children, with tips and information on how your family can get creative at home.

    Insider Tip: SMK is located near the King’s Garden and can easily be combined with a trip to the Rosenberg Castle.

    #9: KLAMPENBORG – Dyrehave and Bakken

    Take a 20-minute train ride out of the city center to Klampenborg station to visit Jægersborg Dyrehave and the Bakken amusement park. Jægersborg Dyrehave, the deer park, is a huge forest where approximately 2100 deer live among the woods. Also, located within the forest is Bakken, the oldest amusement park in the world!

    Insider Tip: The entrance to Dyrehave is located right near Klampenborg station.  When you reach the train station, go up the hill (over the over-pass) and make a left. Also, you can take a horse carriage ride through the park. Final tip, beware of tics.

    Horse and Carriage Ride in Dryehave

    #10: BABY-BIO

    Bring your baby to the movies! As a new parent, the one thing I missed was going to the movies because let’s be realistic you can’t take a crying baby to the movies. However, in Copenhagen there is something called Baby-Bio – a couple of different films showings on specific days where you can bring your baby into the movie theater with you. The lights are not dimmed all the way so you can still see, and if the baby cries it’s no big deal. Also, if your baby is sleeping, you can leave him in his stroller by the movie attendant. Once your baby wakes up, the movie attendant will come get you. Win, Win! Google “BabyBio Copenhagen” for participating theaters near you.

    WHERE TO EAT WITH KIDS

    There are tons of great restaurants and cafes located everywhere in the city, and pretty much all of them have great children’s menus and high chairs. I’ve highlighted only a couple of our favorite places.

    Torvehallerne

    A food hall located within the city center near Rosenberg Castle. My kids’ favorites include the Fish and Chips and Oatmeal #2 from Grød. I would suggest visiting Torvehallerne in the morning to grab your lunch for a picnic, then head over to the Rosenberg Castle where you can have your picnic in the King’s Garden. After, you can even wander over to SMK, which is close by.

    Inside Torvhallen

    Boller (Bread Bun)

    A favorite treat or after school snack for my kids is a Danish bread bun called boller (pronounced bo-lla). They can be found at different pastry shops throughout the city – try the ones from Lagkagehuset, Emmery’s and Myers. They come in different flavors – plain, with raisins or with chocolate.

    Insider Tip: If you get yourself a treat or a coffee from Lagkagehuset, you may be able to get a free boller for your child – just ask!

    Laundromat Café

    This café offers a small play area right in the middle of the café, so parents can enjoy a relaxed meal while the kids play. They have three different locations – Nørrebro; Østebro and Frederiksberg C. The food is delicious!

    Café Norden

    Located right in the middle of the pedestrian walking street, Stroget, Café Norden is a favorite for locals and tourists alike. You can bring your stroller inside, and there’s great seating options upstairs with views of the walking street. The brunch plate is a must-try.

    GOOD TO KNOW TIPS

    After living in this wonderful city for over 5 years and raising our two kids here, I’ve learned lots of tips and tricks. Here are some of my essential “Good to Know” tips.

    Copenhagen Airport

    In my opinion, it is one of the best airports in Europe because it’s not too big and overwhelming, there is a kids play area in terminal 2; there are fantastic eating options and best of all there are FREE STROLLERS to use throughout the airport. So, feel free to gate check your stroller as you can just pick one up at the airport – they are around everywhere. They also lay flat, so they are suitable for all ages.

    Free Strollers in Copenhagen Airport

    Nursing and Diaper Changing Area

    I’ve nursed my two little ones almost everywhere in Copenhagen with no issues whatsoever as it is very common here. However, if you’re in the City Center and would like some privacy and a break from shopping and sightseeing, stop by either Illums or Magasin. The rooftops of both department stores offer a special nursing area and diaper changing area – a nice break for parents and kids.

    The nursing area at Illums Rooftop.

    Strollers and Public Transport

    Copenhagen is a very stroller friendly city in the sense that all the roads and sidewalks are paved (aside from a couple cobblestone streets), it’s flat with no hills so it’s a very walkable city, and strollers are allowed in most stores. There is a maximum allowance of two strollers per bus, and the entrance for the strollers is in the middle of the bus. The metro and trains also have special stroller sections.

    Insider Tip: If there are already two strollers on a bus and you have an umbrella stroller, just fold up your stroller and get on the bus.

    Yes, even our big double stroller fits on the bus!

    Copenhagen Card

    Invest in a Copenhagen Card: it provides entrance to over 70 museums and attractions plus offers free public transport.

    Bring along two children under the age of 10 for free. You can purchase different cards depending on how many days you intend to spend in the city.  You can pick one up at the CPH Airport Service Center or throughout the city.

    Rain Gear

    “There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear.”

    I love this old Scandinavian saying!! Depending on what time of year you visit, it is important to pack accordingly – think lots of layers for both yourselves and the kids. In the summer, even though your the weather may reach 65 degrees, in the sun it gets very hot and in the shade it might be too cool. Also, it’s very important to bring a rain jacket and rain boots. I know luggage space is precious – but it tends to rain often, and having the right gear will only make your stay more memorable.

    I hope this is helpful! Enjoy your time in this beautiful city!

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  • Kids’ Blog: Iceland Highlights

    Kids’ Blog: Iceland Highlights

    Guest Author:  Our kid blogger, “The Cool One”, is a seven year old second grader who loves travel, soccer and piano.

    Three of my favorite things in Iceland were whale watching, Gulfoss waterfall and the Blue Lagoon.

    Whale Watching in Dalvik

    In Iceland, on day five, my family went whale watching in Dalvik.  We went on a boat.  It was a big wooden boat.  It looked like this one:

    There were a lot of people.  We saw a lot of humpback whales.  They were big and blue, and they had a hump on their back.  The whales sprayed water.

     
    I thought that the whale would hit the boat.  I was scared.  Then, we went fishing.  I caught a cod fish.  My brother caught two.
    They cut up the fish on the boat.
    We ate it after.  It was good.  I had fun.
    Gulfoss
    On the seventh day of the Iceland trip, we went to the Gulfoss waterfall.  It was my favorite waterfall in Iceland.  It looked like a cake with two layers.
    We went on a long walk along a path to view Gulfoss.  We saw a rainbow.
    Blue Lagoon
    On the eighth day on the Iceland trip, my family went to the Blue Lagoon.
    On the way to the Blue Lagoon, I saw a part of the lagoon.  It was very blue.
    When we arrived, there was a long line to get in.  When I got in the lagoon, the water was warm.
    Everyone had a silica face mask.  It felt really soft.  We went into a cave.  We made hand prints on the bottom of the bridge.
    I really liked our Iceland trip.  I would like to go back.
  • Not Too Young for the Art Museum

    Not Too Young for the Art Museum

    My three-year-old daughter and I were recently sitting at the puzzle table of a nearby library while waiting for her story time to begin. I was making small talk with another mom sitting with her young sons, and she came to my rescue and directed me to the ABC books when I could not locate Chica Chica Boom Boom on the shelves.  I explained that my daughter had listened to the book when she attended Art Stories at the Cleveland Museum of Art the day before with her nanny and was desperate to read it with me. The other mom responded with, “my kids are too young for the art museum.”  I was not exactly sure how to respond because the thought of being “too young” to visit any museum had never crossed my mind.

    Not Too Young

    My husband and I really enjoy visiting art museums.  My daughter visited her first art museum, the Art Institute of Chicago, when she was two months old.  Since then, she has made a repeat trip to the Art Institute of Chicago and also visited the Cleveland Museum of Art many times as well as the Tate Modern, the National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery in London, the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the National Gallery in D.C.  While she clearly does not remember those early trips, she gained familiarity with art museums in the process.  At the age of three, my daughter now walks around the Cleveland Art Museum, holding my hand and discussing which paintings catch our attention.

    My sons also enjoy art museums and can distinguish a Monet from a Van Gogh (two of my favorites).  Their favorite special exhibition was Cleveland Museum of Art’s “Painting the Modern Garden: Monet to Matisse” in the Fall 2015 that included pieces that influenced Monet’s garden painting and reunited CMA’s Water Lilies with the other two panels of the triptych and displayed them together (no photography permitted).  On our first trip, I took all three kids, aged one, five and seven, alone.  We all loved it so much that we came back a few weeks later with my husband.  After going to the exhibit for the second time, my five-year-old son came home, asked for paints and created his own version of water lilies.

    My five-year-old son’s Water Lilies painting

    Kid Moments

    If your children are new to visiting art museums, start with a short trip of about 45-60 minutes.  We play a “game” when we enter a new gallery.  I ask each kid which is their favorite piece.  We then go and specifically examine each of our favorite pieces before moving on to the next room.  Sometimes, we read the plaque on the wall, other times, we briefly discuss color choice or artist technique that made that piece stand out, but we try hard not to dawdle.

    Kid Caution

    While there is no age that is “too young”, it is necessary to be careful when bringing a child into art galleries as some art is accessible to small hands.  The stroller or front carrier is the safest place for infants or toddlers.   Many art museums do not permit backpacks or back carriers because the wearer could accidentally cause damage by brushing up against the art.  Older children need to have enough self-control to understand that they must stay right with an adult and not touch the art work before going into galleries.  However, many art museums have interactive child-friendly exhibits like the ArtLens Gallery at the Cleveland Museum of Art that everyone can enjoy.

    Our Favorite Art Museums

    We have visited many art museums with kids, but these are our favorites:

    • Metropolitan Museum of Art is the largest art museum in the US and boasts a permanent collection of over two million works.  The Met is located on Fifth Avenue in New  York City.  We were a few of the Met’s over 7 million visitors in 2016 that made it second to only the Louvre in number of visitors.  Our boys were especially excited to find Seurat’s final study for A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte.  Admission to the permanent collection is free, but the suggested donation is $25 for adults.
    Van Gogh’s Irises
    One of two lion statues guarding the Institute’s Michigan Avenue entrance
    Gustave Caillebotte’s Paris Street; Rainy Day
    Georges Seurat’s A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte
    • National Gallery (Washington D.C.) is the third largest art museum in the US.  When we are visiting the Mall, we take a quick stop through the impressionist galleries and the outdoor sculpture garden.  On our most recent visit, my husband was holding our daughter, who was then two.  They stopped in front of a Degas, and she looked at the painted ballerinas and commented, “Daddy, I really like this painting” to the shock of the visitors around her who had no idea that she thought she was merely “playing” a familiar game. Admission is free.
    Van Gogh’s Green Wheat Fields, Auvers
    Lime Green Icicle Tower
    Monet’s Water Lilies
    • The National Gallery, London is the fourth most visited art museum in the world with over six million visitors annually.  It is located in Trafalgar Square and houses a relatively small collection of about 2,300 paintings, almost all of which are on permanent display.
    The National Gallery, London
    Van Gogh’s Sunflowers
    • Cleveland Museum of Art is the art museum we frequent most often.  CMA is located in Cleveland’s University Circle area on the near east side.  A massive expansion project began in 2005 and was completed at the end of 2013 increased floor space by 65% and included the glass-roofed Ames Family Atrium.  It has a permanent collection of 45,000 works and significant Egyptian and Asian galleries.  We always make sure to spend a few minutes sitting on the bench in front of Monet’s Water Lilies (Agapanthus) and enjoy the Armor Court.  Rodin’s Thinker, which sits outside the front entrance, was partially vandalized by a bomb in 1970, and the statue’s lower legs were destroyed and have not been restored.  Admission to the permanent exhibitions is free, but there are fees for special exhibits.
    Monet’s Water Lilies
    Rodin’s Thinker with damaged legs

    With some precautions and child-centric activities, art museums truly can be enjoyed by all ages.  While infants and toddlers may not have specific memories of the museums they visit, those who go to art museums are more likely to grow into young children who enjoy art and visiting galleries.

  • Planning a Trip to London for Families

    Planning a Trip to London for Families

    London is a particularly wonderful location for a first trip to Europe with kids but also for any subsequent European visits. It is the third largest European city (behind Istanbul and Moscow) and rich with history, iconic buildings, world-renowned museums and amazing parks.  This was our first international destination as parents, and we have made two additional return trips to London.  London is a very easy city for families to take, and here are some tips for planning a trip to London for families.

    It’s possible to spend a week (or two!) in London and not run out of must-see attractions. I had a friend who had a long to do list while studying in London that she barely made it through in the four months she spent in the city.

    Aside from being a fabulous city, London is a for both my husband and me. Mark’s family moved to the London suburbs when he was 13, and it was home when he went to middle and high school. It remained “home” through college and after moving to the US.  He visited at least annually until his parents relocated to the US .  When I studied in York as a junior in college, our orientation was in London. So, it was the first European city I ever visited. I spent close to two weeks in London over the course of my six trips there before I met my husband.

    My husband’s family lived in Northwest London when we met. We traveled to there together twice before our first son was born. Then, our first plane trip with as parents was on Continental’s direct Cleveland to Gatwick route when our son was four months old.  We were definitely nervous about the journey, but he traveled very well. He may have had no interest in the bassinet we reserved, but he enjoyed being held, cuddled and fed.  Even though he has no memories of that first trip, he was content traveling and accompanying us as we visited our favorite monuments, museums and parks in central London.

    First Flight

    Even if we were not visiting family, London would have been an ideal first family trip abroad because the city is has so much to offer, and it is logistically easier than other international destinations.

    Accommodations and Restaurants in London

    Accommodations and restaurants at every price point are widely available in London. Restaurant reservations are not usually necessary, but not kids are often not welcome at pubs and are not permitted during certain hours and may not be allowed to enter the bar area regardless of the time of day. China Town is one of our favorite dining locations.  Make sure to try popular British food like fish and chips, English breakfast, roast dinner and Cornish pasties.

    Transportation in London

    Public transport is convenient and effective.  The best way to travel around London with kids is the Underground, which is also known as the Tube. It is an extensive and efficient system with color-coded routes and an eco-friendly option in London.  You can travel virtually anywhere on the Underground, and with the Oyster card, the cost of travel is reasonable.

    Oyster Cards are plastic smart cards that offer the least expensive travel on London’s Underground. They can also be used to pay for travel on train services to and from Gatwick Airport. There is a small fee for activation (£5 starting in September 2017).  Visitor Oyster cards are available for purchase from the Tfl Visitor Shop.  Fares with the Oyster Card are significantly less expensive than regular fares.  Kids under 11 travel free on the Underground.

    Strollers can be used throughout London, although it’s occasionally necessary to carry them up or down a flight stairs or take them on an escalator as the older construction in London does not always have handicapped access.  There is no need to rent a car to visit London.

    Sights

    London’s monuments, museums and parks are known throughout the world. You could spend hours at almost any of them, and many are free, too.  Check out our more detailed posts on London sights, including Five(teen) Fun Family Attractions, Spotlight:  The Tower of London, Five Fun Family Museums and Five Fun Family Parks.

     
    National Gallery
    Big Ben
    Hyde Park
     
    Language in England

    They speak English (ok, maybe British) in London, so communication is no issue after you pick up a few British words. While we enjoy visiting particularly Spanish-speaking countries, it is definitely easier to travel where English is the dominant language.  Here are a few common British phrases and translations:

    • “Hiya” – hi
    • “Cheerio” – see you later
    • “Cheers” – thanks
    • “Quid” – pound (kind of like a dollar is also called a buck)
    • “Gap” – the space between the platform and the train
    • “Mind the gap” – be careful not to fall when stepping on or off the train
    • “Boot” – the trunk of a car
    • “Chips” – French fries
    • “Crisps” – chips
    • “Coach” – bus
    • “Trousers – pants
    • “Pants” – men’s underwear
    • “Knickers” – women’s underwear
    • “Toilet” or “WC” – bathroom
    • “Bathroom” a room that has a bathtub
    • “Flat” – apartment
    • “Lift” – elevator
    • “Line” – queue
    • “Bloke” – man
    • “Pint” – either the size of beer or the beer itself
    • “Snogging” – kissing

    London as a Gateway to Other European Destinations

    London is also a great jumping off point for other European adventures. Train travel from London to other cities in London, Scotland or Wales or even mainland Europe is very efficient.  The trip from London’s Kings Cross station to York, which I have taken many times is an easy two-hour journey.  On our last trip, we booked tickets  a few weeks in advance online through Grand Central Railway.

    There are also a plethora of budget air fares and packages to travel throughout Europe from London. My in-laws were fortunate to often take advantage of these offers while they lived there. We traveled from London to Barcelona in 2008 for a few days and booked a great vacation package.

    I may have spent almost collective two months in London and love to see new places, but I have to admit that I always yearn to go back to London, take the Tube to the Westminster stop and walk out to that view of Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey and the London Eye that makes me smile just thinking about it.

    We recommend a trip to London for the family.  Make sure to check out our blog posts on London with kids, including 15 Top Family Attractions for Families, Visiting the Tower of London, Five Fun Family Parks and Sample Itineraries (to come).

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  • Visiting Thermal Pools in Iceland

    Visiting Thermal Pools in Iceland

    Bathing outdoors in volcanically heated pools has been a tradition since Viking times.  Thermal pools heated to about 100 degrees Fahrenheit are available all over the country and relatively inexpensive.  Because the water is so warm, Icelanders enjoy thermal pools all year around.  Geothermal pools in Iceland are significantly less chlorinated than pools in the US because of strict hygiene guidelines and the water is completely replaced about every other day.  Thermal pools in Iceland were definitely a highlight of our trip.

    We loved visiting thermal pools around the country.  Our first thermal pool experience was in Eskifjörður on a 50 degree wet and windy morning.  It was definitely an experience we will never forget and would also definitely do again. We tried all the water slides and the hot tubs (aka hot pots) of varying temperatures.  We had this great idea to break up the journey from Akureyri to Reykjavik by stopping at a thermal pool.  Unfortunately, it turned out that the Laugarbakki pool was “just a hot tub at the moment.”  It would have been helpful to have consulted this listing of Iceland’s pools in advance.

    Thermal Pool Necessities

    You can rent a towel and even a suit at thermal pools, but the cost of rental is equivalent to the cost of admission.  Despite the cost, our preference is always not to rent swimwear, so we each brought one suit and also packed small beach towels to use at the pools.  As a an additional benefit, they also come in handy to dry off on rainy days.

    Flip flops and bathing suit covers are not used in thermal pools.  Also note that use of cell phones and cameras is not allowed.  Thus, I have no pictures of our four visits to public thermal pools.

    Thermal Pool Etiquette

    There is strictly-adhered to pool etiquette regarding hygiene and dry floors.  After paying our entrance fee (which was generally about $20 for our entire family), we received directions on how the lockers work.  Then, we took off our shoes and socks off outside the appropriate locker rooms and left them on the shoe racks or carried them with us in one of the provided bags.   In the locker rooms, we would undress completely and put everything in the locker except our towels and suits.  Then, we would leave the towels on the towel racks by the showers and carry our suits into the shower and hang it on the faucet.  A soap/shampoo combo is provided in the shower area.  Notorious signs identifying “problem areas” to pay attention to are visible in the shower areas of all public pools.  After washing, we would put our suits on and finish rinsing off.  I would then tie up my long hair into a ponytail or bun before heading to the pool and pick up provided arm bands for my daughter to wear.  These were generally available near the pool entrance.

    We would shower again after swimming and make sure to towel dry our hair before entering the changing room.  It is imperative that you do not track water from the shower area into the changing room.  Luckily, most pools have bathrooms in the shower area.  Most pools have centrifugal dryers next to the sinks to spin excess water off of wet suits.  Put one suit in, close the lid and hold it closed for about 10 seconds while the dryer spins.

    Preparing Children for Thermal Pools

    We explained to our boys that showering in a communal shower before swimming was both customary and required at Iceland’s pools well in advance, and it was no issue.  Young children can go into locker rooms with either parent.  Because both my husband and I were always there, the boys went with him, and I took our daughter.  Our toddler needed no forewarning and was completely unaffected about the communal showers, but adding a toddler to the changing room regimen did complicate the process for me on our first visit.

    Blue Lagoon

    The best thermal pool in Iceland is the Blue Lagoon, which is the most popular tourist destination in Iceland and costs significantly more than the public thermal pools and also has slightly different rules.  At check in, we each received a wrist band.  It was important to make sure this did not come off while we were bathing because it can be used to make food and beverage purchases and was also needed to access our lockers.  Several times, guards notified me that my band needed to be tightened.

    Showering naked before bathing (people do not really “swim” in the Blue Lagoon) is required, but there are private shower stalls.  Because of the silica and sulfur in the water, it was important to leave conditioner in our hair while we were in the Blue Lagoon.  Also, there are no towel racks inside the locker rooms; instead, we brought our towel or bathrobe with us and hung it on the hooks outside.  Flip flops are permitted, and children under age eight must wear arm bands.

    Use of cameras and phones remain off limits in the changing rooms, but they are most definitely permitted in the Lagoon itself.  In fact, we saw more cameras in the Blue Lagoon than anywhere else in Iceland.  We used our son’s waterproof camera rather than our phones, but most people had their phones with them in the water.  Waterproof cases are highly recommended and not so surprisingly are rather expensive to purchase on site.

    After we were done bathing, we showered and washed our hair again.  There is a special area in the locker room for drying after your shower that offers Blue Lagoon lotion.

    There are so many opportunities to visit thermal pools in Iceland, and we’re sad that we missed the Secret Lagoon while touring the Golden Circle, but it’s high on our list the next time we visit Iceland. Planning a family trip to Iceland?  Check out our listing of all Iceland posts.

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  • Japan Part II: Packing and Getting to Japan with Kids (via Munich / Seoul)

    Japan Part II: Packing and Getting to Japan with Kids (via Munich / Seoul)

    Packing:

    After 4 years of cross country flights during college and 5 years of long distance relationship traveling, my husband and I long ago stopped checking luggage when traveling. For our trip to Japan, we meticulously calculated what we would need for two adults and one not-quite five year old and ended up with this:

    18,000 miles, 11 days, 2 adults, 1 child, 0 checked bags. Pack light or stay home.

    In addition to those three items of luggage, my husband and my son each had a personal item, a backpack. The grey bag pictured in front was my personal item for the flights and we also had a separate camera bag, which we carried along with us.

    Although I was initially skeptical about not checking luggage when traveling with children, I have not only come around to it, but have concluded that it is the only way to travel when possible. Not only do you save yourself the extra hassle of juggling small, fussy children and the baggage claim wait time, but you also free up as much hand real estate as possible. When you only have two adults traveling, extra hands are key! When my oldest was a toddler, we frequently traveled only with enough diapers and wipes to get us to our destination and then purchased all disposable items and supplies on the other end. We co-slept and, when traveling for more than a few days, favored renting vacation homes through airbnb/homeaway/vrbo so that we would have easy access to laundry. But, I digress.

    When planning our trip to Japan, we took into consideration the weather and the most versatile clothing we could pack. Luckily, since it was Spring, we knew that light layers and one medium weight coat/rain jacket would be sufficient. We also knew that good walking shoes were a definite must. For clothing, we each packed 3-4 outfits/changes of clothes and planned to do laundry as we traveled. We are both fans of what we affectionately call “high tech underwear” – a combination of polyester/nylon/spandex that is lightweight, packs small, and most importantly, dries quickly so clothing can be washed and dried by ourselves in the hotel.  Examples include Rei Co-op Boxer Briefs and ExOfficio Women Briefs. To do our laundry in the hotel, we bring along single packs of Woolite detergent and we also travel with a travel clothesline so we can hang dry clothing in the hotel shower.  We also each own actual clothing in a similar quick dry material and typically bring one “dressier” outfit for fine dining.  If you know me, you also know that I do not travel anywhere without a pair of flip flops, so those are also always tucked into our luggage somewhere.

    With our clothes and personal items tucked into our luggage, our walking shoes on our feet, and our lightweight jackets on our backs, we set off for the first leg of our flight to Munich.

    Munich & Seoul:

    We called a taxi for our flight to Munich out of Dulles airport. Although a car seat is not legally required in for-hire car rides in Virginia, this was the first time I ever had my son ride in a taxi without a car seat since we would not be using one during our time in Japan. To make myself feel slightly better about the situation, my husband and I rode with my son in between us in the backseat and we made sure to buckle him up securely. Luckily, we arrived at the airport without incident and, having already checked in online and with no bags to check, made our way to the Lufthansa business class lounge, where we filled up with snacks and champagne (for the adults) before boarding the first leg of our flight to Munich. This was my son’s first time flying business class, but being only four, he did not seem to notice that this was a much different “staging” area that any of our previous flights. He did enjoy the free wifi and abundant snackage, however.

    a thumbs up for mom from the business class Lufthansa lounge at Dulles Airport

    Our flight to Munich was uneventful and upon clearing customs, we found our rental car company booth. Unlike in many airports in the US where you have to board a shuttle to get to your rental car lot, we were able to just walk across a courtyard from the main terminal to the rental car terminal, where we located Avis and checked out our car – a lovely Audi, equipped with our pre-reserved booster seat. As I waited with my son, however, we spotted numerous cigarette vending machines sprinkled throughout the airport – a quick and easy reminder that we weren’t in Kansas anymore!

    the cigarette vending machines were a major source of conversation
    all strapped in and ready to go!

     

    From the airport, we quickly checked into our hotel, before heading to downtown Munich to explore. We found a convenient parking spot at a parking garage in the Munich City Center and then just wandered around for a few hours, taking in the sights, before stopping for a light snack at the Augistiner Beer Hall of – you guessed it, sausage and beer.

    my son was completely non-plussed about being in a foreign country. he loves adventures and is always game for them and was just glad to be along for the ride

    After our snack, we continued walking and overall, it was a nice, enjoyable way to kill a few hours and stretch our legs after a long flight. We came across a number of relatively deserted courtyards where my son could run around and, although there were tons of tourists and others walking around, at no time did I worry about losing my son in the crowd. The service at the Augistiner was perfectly fine, the weather was lovely, and we decided to head back to the hotel just as it was getting dark. On the way back, we decided to take the Autobahn and loved that the speed limit adjusted down as the weather started sprinkling and then went back up when the showers stopped.

    Once back at the hotel, we decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, which offered up traditional German fare that was incredibly satisfying, as was the continental breakfast at the hotel the next morning, which we filled up on before heading to the airport for the next leg of our trip to Seoul. Overall, we enjoyed our time in Munich. It was a great spot to stretch our legs and break up the long trip to Japan. It is a great place to travel with children – clean, generally English speaking, easy to get around. Although the streets were crowded, using a stroller to maneuver around would not be a problem. If we had more time in Munich (and if my son was older), I would have liked to have visited Dachau, which is only 45 minutes or so from Munich. Given our short 24 hour layover and the fact that my son was not quite 5 at the time, we decided to save the visit for a future trip.

    The flight from Munich to Seoul was approximately 11 hours but, being in business class, we enjoyed the comfort of having enough space to stretch out, recline to sleep, and, of course, the ice cream sundaes for dessert. My son was such a rockstar traveler by that age that I basically let him watch whatever age appropriate movie he wanted to watch and took a nap myself – dozing in and out of consciousness throughout the duration of the flight.

    After deplaning in Seoul, we had a 3.5 hour layover to stretch our legs. Happily, we found an indoor play gym, which we took advantage of. I wish more airports had this type of space for families traveling with young children! I don’t believe I have ever seen a play structure in an airport, except for the Birmingham Airport, of all places. Hopefully, as airports continue to expand and modernize, play structures or kid zones will become a standard offering, along with breastfeeding rooms and family restrooms.

    Prior to having children, I always picked flights with the shortest layovers possible, in an effort to minimize time lost in transit. Although debatable, I am now partial to longer layovers with small children – I once chose a four hour layover in Seattle over a 2 hour layover during a solo trip with my then-18 month old from DC to Alaska! I prefer the long layover because it gives us time to stretch our legs, eat, and in the case of my 18 month old in Seattle, to take a quick 90 minute nap in his stroller. Our 3.5 hour layover in Seoul was the perfect opportunity to stretch and grab a quick snack before boarding the last leg of our trip – a 2 hour flight to Osaka.

    Continue to Part II: The First 24 Hours in Japan

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