Guest Blogger: Ophélieis originally from France but moved to Belgium from McLean, Virginia five years ago. She and her husband have found that kids didn’t have to stop them from doing what they love. Instead, they shared their passion for travel and the outdoors with their young son and daughter. Ophélie can be found on Instragram and Facebook.
A hike in the Vosges in France with a donkey may not be a typical family vacation, but it was an absolutely amazing adventure that we encourage others to consider. A decade ago (time flies), my now-husband and I went for a hiking trip in the Vosges mountains in eastern France. We loved the relaxing feeling of peace and freedom inherent to this region. Unlike the Alps and the Pyrenees, the Vosges are low mountains that culminate at 1,424 meters (4,672 feet) and are still exempt of any mass tourism. The mountains are characterized by the rounded shape of their peaks, called the ballons, which give them their peculiar softness. An immense forest covers 60% of the mountains and features mostly conifers. Yet, this quiet mountain offers a variety of landscapes, including lakes, wet and high altitude meadows, deep valleys, waterfalls, cliffs and rocks. The Vosges are the perfect place for a breath of fresh air and a paradise for outdoor and nature lovers.
This summer we decided to hike in Vosges again and share this experience with our two children, who are 6 and 7 years old! To make the experience even more exciting and memorable, we decided to rent a donkey! More and more farms in France offer donkey-renting options. After some online research, we chose La Ferme Prés en Bulles, a few miles away from the city of Gerardmer. They offer many alternatives from half-day rentals to all-included tours with nights in country inns and half-board. Because we wanted to completely unplug from every-day life, we chose the bivouac, a temporary / wild camping option, that gave us three days of total freedom! Our trip included hiking, backpacking and wild camping through the Vosges forest as a family, with kids, dog and donkey (not talking about my husband this time)! It was a first for us, and we LOVED it! Here is our experience.
Planning the Trip: an Adventure by Itself
As always, packing is exciting! We involved the kids very much so that they were part of the whole adventure. We weighed everything to not overload our brave donkey! With only two small tents, four sleeping bags, camping stove, headlights, a small toiletry and safety kit, a map, limited clothing, food and water for 3 days – no toys or cosmetics, we were ready to go. It was both a fun and interesting experience for the kids to decide what were the essentials!
D-day: Meeting our Donkey
Hidden along the small, meandering roads of the Vosges mountains, we found the farm where we met Marie and Deil, the donkey owners. They introduced us to our donkey, Brimbelle (which means “blueberry” in the Vosgian dialect). For 30 minutes, the donkey-owners taught us how to take care of Brimbelle. They showed us how to gently curry-comb, brush, clean out the donkey’s hooves and how to place the packsaddle! They helped prepare the itinerary on the map and indicated the narrow trail sections that cannot be used. We saddled up Brimbelle, loaded the bags and were on our way!
Hiking with Brimbelle was an awesome experience! We hiked about 10 kilometers (6 miles) each day, so 30 kilometers (18 miles) in total across forest, fields and villages. Donkeys are awesome travel companions, and Brimbell added a new dimension to the hiking adventure by motivating our children to hike along. Steady and gentle animals, donkeys bring a very relaxing and secure feeling. Our 6 year old daughter, who is usually super active, spent hours walking calmly alongside Brimbelle and cuddling her in the evening. Even our very energetic 1 year old Australian shepherd, Perle, seemed to be calmed by the presence of Brimbelle. Donkeys must have some magical soothing powers!
Wild camping in Vosges
The bivouac option offered us a lot of flexibility, so we did not plan in advance where we were going to spend the nights. We adjusted to everyone’s tiredness and began to look for a place to camp mid-afternoon, so we would have time to rest and play before the sun went down. We took time to look for a nice spot, so that each evening we could enjoy the sunset over the pine forest or the valley! We also looked each time for a place near a water source so that we could easily get water for Brimbelle and Perle. I loved to see how the kids felt responsible for the animals, taking care of them, bringing them water and always looking for the best spot of green grass for Brimbelle to graze!
Wild camping with kids is an amazing experience for so many reasons. Being in the forest at night with no one else for miles around is exhilarating. Experiencing the total silence except from the wind and wildlife is priceless. Inevitably, it is a bit harder work than campsite camping. You have to walk in, plan more, pack enough food, and find a good spot – all the while staying safe, but it is a great family challenge. We made special memories that will last for a lifetime.
Good to Know
The law about wild camping in France is quite confusing (Article R111-33 and R111-34). However, in most French national and regional parks, free camping is tolerated from sunset to sunrise or from 19h to 9h (7 pm until 9 am) in a small tent in which you cannot stand. Fires are forbidden, but the use of camping stone is sometimes tolerated. Regulations are subject to change or interpretation depending on the region, the season, and the local habits. Make sure to check before going or ask the donkey-owners. They are amazing resources!
Hiking with a donkey in numbers:
Donkeys can carry nearly 30-40 kilograms (65-90 pounds). They can carry small children of 3-6 years old if needed.
Donkeys walk steadily at a pace of 3 to 4 kilometers/hour (1.8 to 2.4 miles/hour)
Donkeys reasonably walk up to 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) per day
A 1/25,000 map of the area is a necessity, whether you buy one beforehand or purchase one from the donkey-owners.
Renting a donkey costs 38€ ($44) per day. Prices may of course vary depending on the owners and the hiking region. Renting a donkey is becoming a popular added value of any family hike everywhere in France, with almost 300 professional donkey-owners registered. If you love animals and nature, that is an amazing way to discover the French countryside, slowly and peacefully! Either you choose the all-included option with nights in country inns, or the wild version with bivouac in the tent; travelling with a donkey is a truly unique family adventure, that your children are unlikely to forget!
Guest Blogger: Lisa, the mom behind TwoTravelingTots, is an American expat living in Copenhagen, Denmark and traveling the world with her husband and two young kids. From far off wanderlust destinations like Australia, Thailand and Philippines to more local jaunts like Luxembourg, Finland and Italy, Lisa has traveled to 30 countries and 49 cities with her little ones in tow. Having lived in Copenhagen for over 5 years, Lisa is here to tell us Why You Should Visit Copenhagen with Kids and share her Top 10 Things to Do while there – with some Insider Tips sprinkled throughout. Follow her adventures, tips and tales on Instagram and Facebook. For her detailed tips on Copenhagen, check out #TwoTravelingTotsCPH on Instagram.
Traveling with kids and babies is not easy! Trust me, I know. My family and I travel the world with our 4 and 1.5 year olds. There are certain cities that make the experience enjoyable and magical for both parents and children alike. Copenhagen, Denmark is one of those cities! Denmark was ranked by the UN World Happiness Report as the happiest country in the world in 2016. In recent years Copenhagen, has received world-wide recognition for its New Nordic food scene, Danish design, and hygglig (cozy) lifestyle; however, what isn’t widely known is how child-friendly this city is. It almost feels like every aspect is geared to the reality that people have kids and they travel with them. These things make this city the perfect place for a family visit. From the free strollers found throughout Copenhagen Airport and the Lego play areas at the luggage carousel, to the ease of using public transport with strollers to the countless kids’ activities and green spaces found throughout the city; life in Copenhagen with children is AMAZING!
Copenhagen is in Scandinavia, so the weather isn’t always the best. Summer is by far the best time of the year to visit, with warmer and longer days (sun sets around 9:30 pm). December is also a very special time of year to visit because of the Christmas markets, street decorations and festive moods. However, the days are shorter, darker, and colder (sun sets around 4pm).
This post highlights our Top 10 Things to Do with Children while also including Insider Tips that we’ve learned throughout the 5 years we have lived here. You’ll also find section called “Good to Know Tips” for some general pointers about what kind of clothes to pack, the Copenhagen Card (which provides free entrances to many of the attractions), and public transport tips.
Stroget, the Walking Street, dressed up for Christmas.
No trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to Tivoli Gardens, a fairytale-like amusement park located in the heart of the city said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Disneyland. It’s the second oldest amusement park in the world – second only to Bakken, another Danish amusement park located on the outskirts of Copenhagen. Tivoli is only open four seasons a year – the summer period (mid-March – mid-September), the Halloween period (mid-October to November), the Christmas season (Mid-November – December) and the winter season (February) (Please check exact opening times before you go). It is beautiful and magical all times of the year. The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance, and children under the age of 8 enter for free.
Halloween at the Nimb Hotel in Tivoli Gardens.
#2: CANAL TOUR
Another favorite activity for parents and kids alike is the Canal Tour. Copenhagen is located on a harbor, so on a beautiful sunny day there is nothing nicer than seeing the city by water. This is also a good way to see the bronze statute of the Little Mermaid from the back (in my humble opinion, it is not worth your time to make a trip to see her as she is underwhelming small). You can catch the canal Tour at Nyhavn or Gammel Strand. The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance to the Canal Tour but only at the Gammel Strand location.
Insider Tip: Strollers are not allowed on the canal boats, so I recommend you leave them by the ticket counters. I suggest investing in a simple flexible bike lock for your stroller so you can just lock it up wherever, and put your mind at ease.
Nyhavn, originally a busy commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock, is now the perfect place to enjoy a canal ride.
#3: ROSENBORG CASTLE
A Royal Hermitage set in the middle of the City Center and the King’s Garden. It was built by Christian IV in the early 17th Century. Not to be missed is the Crown Jewels Exhibit – my kids’ favorite.
I recommend this castle because it’s not too big, easy to do with children and also in the heart of the King’s Garden. So, after a quick tour of the castle, you can set up a picnic in the King’s Garden, let the kids run around or visit the playground in the park.
Insider Tip: If you visit mid-summer, you may be able to catch a free puppet show (currently Tuesday-Sunday at 2pm and 3pm located near the restaurant Orangeriet.
#4: PLAYGROUNDS – INDOOR AND OUTDOORS
Copenhagen can be an expensive city, so a visit to one of the many amazing parks located around town is a good free way for the kids to let off steam.
Outdoor Parks
The biggest open space park is Fælledparken located in Østebro. There are several different playgrounds located in this massive park:
“Mini Copenhagen,” just as it sounds, it’s a playground designed after iconic Danish buildings
A cycling park where kids can rent bicycles for free and practice riding on fake streets
Trampolines and swings
A skateboarding area
An outdoor gym both for kids and parents.
A free waterpark (open in the summers)
“Mini Copenhagen”
Superkilen, is another massive park located in the Nørrebro district.
Superkilen
Indoor Parks/Play Areas
On a rainy day, which is quite often, try the FREE indoor playground called Remisen, located in Østebro, a short 10-minute bike ride or bus ride from the City Center.
Remisen
Ku.Be is another great indoor play area located in Frederiksberg; however, it is not free. There’s a climbing area and a café – great place for kids to get energy out.
The Copenhagen Zoo is a great zoo with elephants, hippos, polar bears, monkeys, giraffes and tons of other exciting animals. Also, there is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. If you don’t take your stroller, you can rent a wagon for the kiddos. There are also two different playgrounds, a petting zoo and designated picnic areas (you can bring in your own food!).
Copenhagen Zoo
Insider Tip: If a day at the Zoo seems too overwhelming or you’re short on time, try the Free Petting Zoo, ByOasen, in the Nørrebro district.
Copenhagen’s new Science Center is fun for all ages, from little toddlers to parents! Two floors with 16 interactive exhibits from soap bubbles to a Labyrinth of Light to a Tunnel of Senses. There is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. It’s located in Hellerup – a 15-minute bus ride from the city center.
Experimentarium
Insider Tip: It gets crowded on weekends, so go early. Also, if the café is too crowded, the Waterfront shopping center, located next door, has tons of eating options.
Another favorite is to walk or bike around the lakes that surround the city center. I love to pick up a coffee from Lagkagehuset and a free bread bun (boller) for the kids (see my tips below on “Where to Eat”) and take a nice stroll around the lakes. On a sunny summer day, we like to rent swans at Kaffesalonen and ride them in the lakes. They also have a great food menu!
Rented Swans from Kaffesalonen
#8: SMK – The National Gallery of Denmark
This museum provides more than 700 years of Danish Art. Plus, every weekend there are special art workshops for children, with tips and information on how your family can get creative at home.
Insider Tip: SMK is located near the King’s Garden and can easily be combined with a trip to the Rosenberg Castle.
#9: KLAMPENBORG – Dyrehave and Bakken
Take a 20-minute train ride out of the city center to Klampenborg station to visit Jægersborg Dyrehave and the Bakken amusement park. Jægersborg Dyrehave, the deer park, is a huge forest where approximately 2100 deer live among the woods. Also, located within the forest is Bakken, the oldest amusement park in the world!
Insider Tip: The entrance to Dyrehave is located right near Klampenborg station. When you reach the train station, go up the hill (over the over-pass) and make a left. Also, you can take a horse carriage ride through the park. Final tip, beware of tics.
Horse and Carriage Ride in Dryehave
#10: BABY-BIO
Bring your baby to the movies! As a new parent, the one thing I missed was going to the movies because let’s be realistic you can’t take a crying baby to the movies. However, in Copenhagen there is something called Baby-Bio – a couple of different films showings on specific days where you can bring your baby into the movie theater with you. The lights are not dimmed all the way so you can still see, and if the baby cries it’s no big deal. Also, if your baby is sleeping, you can leave him in his stroller by the movie attendant. Once your baby wakes up, the movie attendant will come get you. Win, Win! Google “BabyBio Copenhagen” for participating theaters near you.
WHERE TO EAT WITH KIDS
There are tons of great restaurants and cafes located everywhere in the city, and pretty much all of them have great children’s menus and high chairs. I’ve highlighted only a couple of our favorite places.
Torvehallerne
A food hall located within the city center near Rosenberg Castle. My kids’ favorites include the Fish and Chips and Oatmeal #2 from Grød. I would suggest visiting Torvehallerne in the morning to grab your lunch for a picnic, then head over to the Rosenberg Castle where you can have your picnic in the King’s Garden. After, you can even wander over to SMK, which is close by.
Inside Torvhallen
Boller (Bread Bun)
A favorite treat or after school snack for my kids is a Danish bread bun called boller (pronounced bo-lla). They can be found at different pastry shops throughout the city – try the ones from Lagkagehuset, Emmery’s and Myers. They come in different flavors – plain, with raisins or with chocolate.
Insider Tip: If you get yourself a treat or a coffee from Lagkagehuset, you may be able to get a free boller for your child – just ask!
Laundromat Café
This café offers a small play area right in the middle of the café, so parents can enjoy a relaxed meal while the kids play. They have three different locations – Nørrebro; Østebro and Frederiksberg C. The food is delicious!
Café Norden
Located right in the middle of the pedestrian walking street, Stroget, Café Norden is a favorite for locals and tourists alike. You can bring your stroller inside, and there’s great seating options upstairs with views of the walking street. The brunch plate is a must-try.
GOOD TO KNOW TIPS
After living in this wonderful city for over 5 years and raising our two kids here, I’ve learned lots of tips and tricks. Here are some of my essential “Good to Know” tips.
Copenhagen Airport
In my opinion, it is one of the best airports in Europe because it’s not too big and overwhelming, there is a kids play area in terminal 2; there are fantastic eating options and best of all there are FREE STROLLERS to use throughout the airport. So, feel free to gate check your stroller as you can just pick one up at the airport – they are around everywhere. They also lay flat, so they are suitable for all ages.
Free Strollers in Copenhagen Airport
Nursing and Diaper Changing Area
I’ve nursed my two little ones almost everywhere in Copenhagen with no issues whatsoever as it is very common here. However, if you’re in the City Center and would like some privacy and a break from shopping and sightseeing, stop by either Illums or Magasin. The rooftops of both department stores offer a special nursing area and diaper changing area – a nice break for parents and kids.
The nursing area at Illums Rooftop.
Strollers and Public Transport
Copenhagen is a very stroller friendly city in the sense that all the roads and sidewalks are paved (aside from a couple cobblestone streets), it’s flat with no hills so it’s a very walkable city, and strollers are allowed in most stores. There is a maximum allowance of two strollers per bus, and the entrance for the strollers is in the middle of the bus. The metro and trains also have special stroller sections.
Insider Tip: If there are already two strollers on a bus and you have an umbrella stroller, just fold up your stroller and get on the bus.
Yes, even our big double stroller fits on the bus!
Copenhagen Card
Invest in a Copenhagen Card: it provides entrance to over 70 museums and attractions plus offers free public transport.
Bring along two children under the age of 10 for free. You can purchase different cards depending on how many days you intend to spend in the city. You can pick one up at the CPH Airport Service Center or throughout the city.
Rain Gear
“There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear.”
I love this old Scandinavian saying!! Depending on what time of year you visit, it is important to pack accordingly – think lots of layers for both yourselves and the kids. In the summer, even though your the weather may reach 65 degrees, in the sun it gets very hot and in the shade it might be too cool. Also, it’s very important to bring a rain jacket and rain boots. I know luggage space is precious – but it tends to rain often, and having the right gear will only make your stay more memorable.
I hope this is helpful! Enjoy your time in this beautiful city!
