East Iceland is rather desolate, but the scenery is unbelievable. When driving in this area of the Iceland, make sure that you have a full tank of gas and stop at any bathroom you come across. We took a recommendation to divert slightly from the Ring Road and take the beautiful drive along the fjords. The landscapes were beautiful and reminded me of my the scenery between Bergen to Flam that I saw in Norway ages ago on my post-bar trip. We found an amazing picnic lunch spot, saw hovering birds and passed through tunnels. Our night in Eskifjörður was a pleasant surprise. Both of us thought we had booked in Egilsstaðir, but it was really Eskifjörður, which we loved. Here our favorite East Iceland things to do:
#1: Travel the Ring Road in East Iceland
The Ring Road follows the coast for most of the stretch between Höfn and Djúpivogur, and the ocean views are amazing. We stopped for a lunch at a picnic bench on the Atlantic at this most amazing vista. I wish I would have noted the GPS coordinates because it was one of the highlights of our trip. We were the only people there
Kid Moment: We stopped several times for the boys to skip rocks, and my daughter started a rock collection.
My daughter’s love of rocks began in East Iceland
There is always an adventure around the next curve in Iceland. We pulled off the Ring Road to get a closer look at one of the many waterfalls and found this narrow bridge that my husband was desperate to traverse to test the capabilities of our Suburu Forrester. I absolutely refused to allow him to make the attempt.
We saw these beautiful hovering birds and realized that they were looking for food.
#2: Djúpivogur Iceland
Djúpivogur is a small fishing village on the Berufjörður fjord. The information center is especially helpful with a wide selection of maps. Eggin í Gleðivík is a sculpture of 34 eggs representing local birds located on the waterfront. We drove by on our way out of town and missed the opportunity to take a picture, but it is a beautiful harbor.
#3: Eskifjörður Iceland
Eskifjörður is a fishing village with about 1,000 residents along the Reyðarfjörður fjord. Across the fjord is the stunning Holmatindur mountain, which seems to rise out of the water. For Eskifjörður accommodation, we recommend Hotel Apartments. Our comfortable one bedroom apartment included a full kitchen and laundry room with its own washer and dryer, which we took full advantage of after a few wet and muddy days.
Holmatindur mountain
#4: HelgustaðanamaCrystal Mine
Helgustaðanama Crystal Mine is a spar crystal mine along the shore east of Eskifjörður. You follow the trail up the hill to the mine. Our kids were dazzled by the crystals, which you cannot take with you. The weather was perfect for a hike the evening we were there, but rain was predicted in the morning. The benefit of 24 hours of daylight is that we were able to take advantage of the weather and headed to the mine at about 9 pm. When we returned after 11 pm, we noticed so many people (including young children) outdoors roaming around that it appeared to be the middle of the day.
The friends’ team hiking to the spar crystal mineThe spar crystal mine
#5: Eskifjordur Swimming Pool
The Eskifjordur pool is a geothermal pool with excellent water slides. Despite exceptionally cold and rainy weather, we had the pool to ourselves when we visited mid-morning and enjoyed it thoroughly. Our host was kind enough to call to to confirm open times. We were not permitted to take pictures of the pool area.
East Iceland may be a rather desolate area of the country, and we did not run into many other tourists. However, we are glad we traveled the entire Ring Road and didn’t miss out on this amazing region – a hidden gem of Iceland.
Continue to Iceland Part VIII – North Iceland. Interested in finding out more about Iceland with kids? Join our Facebook group We Go To Iceland With Kids, which is a forum to ask questions and share ideas about family travel to Iceland. Also, be sure to check out our listing of all Iceland posts.
While many Iceland travelers do not make it farther east than Vík, the stretch of the Ring Road between Vík and Jökulsárlón is unbelievably beautiful and probably our favorite drive in the whole country. Because we were not able to spend the night in Vík, we had one incredibly long day on our second day in Iceland traveling from Seljalandfoss to Höfn. It was definitely a day packed with incredible beauty and very different landscapes, but we would have preferred to spend more time taking in each sight. We took full advantage of an early morning start and 24 hours of daylight during our June visit. Our host in Höfn said we needed to arrive before 10 pm, and we made it there with only a few minutes to spare. Here are our five favorite Southeast Iceland things to do:
#1: Eldhraun Iceland
Eldhraun Lava Field is located between Vík and Kirkjubæjarklaustur that is absolutely other worldly.
Eldhraun Facts: This Lava field was created in 1783 to 1784 by the lava flow during the eruption of Lakagígar. The eruption that caused this lava field caused disease, crop failure and famine that lead to the death of approximately 20% of all people living in Iceland caused by the eruption.
#2: Fjaðrárgljúfur Iceland
Fjaðrárgljúfur is a canyon near Kirkjubæjarklaustur and not far off the Ring Road. The Fjaðrárgljúfur canyon hike around the rim is not strenuous and takes about 60 minutes, but we were short on time and enjoyed a quick visit hiking into the canyon only a few minutes from the parking lot.
Fjadrargljufur Facts: The bedrock of Fjaðrárgljúfur was believed to be formed when a glacier retreated 9,000 years ago during the Ice Age.
Fjadrargljufur Kid Moment: It is a quick walk from the parking lot to the river’s edge even for small children but truly an impressive view to see.
The Vatnajökull Glacier is the largest icecap between Arctic and Antarctic and covers 8% of Iceland. Vatnajökull National Park encompasses the glacier and the surrounding areas. The views from the Ring Road are unbelievably beautiful. While many tourists do not travel father east than Vík, we believe Vatnajökull should not be missed. Tours of Vatnajökull National Park, the largest European protected area, can be arranged through the Höfn’s Tourist Information Centre, but we did not have time to explore more thoroughly.
Kid Facts: The ice is between 1,300 and 3,100 feet thick and covers active volcanos, mountains and valleys.
Kid Moment: Several stops are required along as you pass Vatnajökull to get a proper view.
#4: Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach Iceland
Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon is a glacial lake that was so beautiful and different that we all agreed that our brief visit was a highlight of our trip. This lake is full of icebergs broken off Breiðamerkurjökull (an outlet glacier of Vatnajökull). There are several parking lots on the North side of the Ring Road to view the lake that are each worth a stop. Make sure to cross the road to find the ice washed up on the black sand beach. Find out more about the Jökulsárlón Boat Tour.
Jokulsarlon Facts: Jökulsárlón means “glacial river lagoon” Because glacial ice melts so slowly, icebergs can stay in Jökulsárlón for up to five years. Breiðamerkurjökull reached almost to the ocean only 75 years ago, so Jökulsárlón is a relatively new lake.
Jokulsarlon Kid Moments: Try to identify what each iceberg looks like. Look for moving icebergs seals, particularly by the dam in the water. Make sure to go to the South side of the Ring Road to check out the icebergs that wash up on the beach.
Höfn is a fishing town known for lobster located just off the Ring Road on a peninsula. From Höfn, there are beautiful views of Vatnajökull. With a population over 2,000, Höfn is the second largest town in Southeast Iceland and offers a number of options for accommodations.
Hofn Facts: Höfn, which is surrounded by water on three sides, means “harbor.” Scenes from Die Another Day, A View to a Kill, Lara Croft: Tomb Raider and Batman Beginswere all filmed nearby.
Hofn Kid Moment: This is a great location for a short hike to view Vatnajökull. The Tourist Information Centre had several suggestions for routes.
Southeast Iceland was absolutely beautiful. We wish we made it to Laki Crater, which was about 40 km off the Ring Road on an unpaved road near Fjaðrárgljúfur. Unfortunately, we did not have time on this trip, but love to have a reason to come back!
Planning your own Icelandic adventure with kids? Continue Part VII – East Iceland, and be sure to check out our listing of all Iceland posts or join our Facebook group We Go To Iceland With Kids, a forum to ask questions and share ideas about family travel to Iceland.
We loved Southwest Iceland even though it was wet and windy for most of our time there. The sites we visited were all on or near the Ring Road. Due to scarcity of hotel availability, we traveled from near Seljalandfoss to Höfn in one day. It was a long day with a lot of amazing stops, but it would have been preferable to stay near Vík or Kirkjubæjarklaustur and spend two days exploring this area. Here are six Southwest Iceland attractions we recommend.
#1: Seljalandfoss Iceland
Seljalandfoss is a 200 foot waterfall that visitors can walk behind by following the path into the cave behind the falls. The Seljalandfoss hike is a bit of a trek, but our seven and nine year old boys easily handled the trail. I walked carefully as I carried my daughter in our Beco carrier. Seljalandfoss falls is easily accessible from the Ring Road.
Seljalandfoss Facts: Plans to build an information center near Seljalandfoss caused controversy in May 2017 because opponents worried the building would spoil the view and natural look of the area.
Seljalandfoss Kid Moment: Make sure to take the path from the cave down to the edge of the water and get a closer look at the waterfall.
Seljalandfoss Kid Caution: Seljalandfoss is viewed from below rather than above and therefore less dangerous than many waterfalls in Iceland. However, the path that winds behind the falls can be slippery because of the constant mist. Also, rain gear is probably necessary even on a dry day.
The Eyjafjallajökull volcano is known throughout the world because of the Eyjafjallajökull 2010 eruption that caused the largest air-traffic shut-down since World War I. My mother-in-law and sister-in-law were stuck for an extra few days in the US when transatlantic flights were cancelled due to the volcanic ash. We viewed Eyjafjallajökull from the Ring Road when we stopped at an unmarked overlook to take some pictures.
Eyjafjallajökull Facts: The resulting volcanic ash of Eyjafjallajokull’s eruption disrupted air traffic over Europe and the Atlantic. The pronunciation of Eyjafjallajökull became a news story of its own at the time. Check out this video to learn how the correct Eyjafjallajökull pronunciation. We were not able to master it.
Eyjafjallajökull Kid Moments: Show your children video of the 2010 eruption, which did not cause any injuries, and discuss some of the most destructive volcanic eruptions.
Skógafoss is one of Iceland’s largest waterfalls with a width of 75 feet and drop of 200 feet. Skogafoss was probably the safest and most accessible waterfall we visited as the viewing area was located on the river bank below the falls and just at the edge of the parking lot. Don’t miss Skogafoss falls right off the Ring Road.
Skogafoss Kid Moment: Look for rainbows, which are common at Skógafoss, due to the amount of spray.
Sólheimajökull is a beautiful outlet glacier of the Myrdalsjokull glacier. We took a short walk on a path from the parking area to view the glacier. Sólheimajökull glacier tours were generally not offered for children under 10. While this is one of the easiest glacial tongues to reach, we did not take attempt a Sólheimajökull glacier hike on our own. Here is the correct Sólheimajökull pronounciation.
Sólheimajökull Glacier Facts: A glacier is a body of dense ice that is moving under its own weight. Glacial ice is the largest reservoir of fresh water on Earth and appears blue because water molecules absorb other colors more efficiently than blue.
#5: Dyrholaey Iceland
Dyrholaey is a coastal bird sanctuary located on a peninsula at the southernmost tip of Iceland. It’s a short walk to the lookout point, and we spotted a few puffins in the caves. Note – This is not a black and white picture, but it was really that gray during our visit.
Dyrholaey Facts: Dyrhólaey means “doorway hill island” because it was originally an island
Dyrholaey Kid Moment: Highlights include the Dyrhólaey puffins during the summer months and a view of the Dyrhólaey arch.
Reynisfjara Beach is a black sand beach with a phenomenal basalt sea cave, Halsanefshellir. The Reynisdrangur sea stacks are visible from the beach.
Reynisfjara Beach Facts: A scene in Rogue One was filmed at Reynisfjara Beach in which Jyn unsuccessfully tries to save her wounded father.
Reynisfjara Beach Kid Moment: Compare the basalt columns to a church organ.
Reynisfjara Beach Kid Caution: While this appears to be a safe beach, it was the only place in Iceland where we saw cautionary signs regarding recent tourist deaths that occurred in 2016 and 2017. The Reynisfjara waves here are very dangerously unpredictable, and the undertow is extremely strong. During our visit, our nine-year-old tripped and fell running away from a wave that came inland much further than previous ones, and he was covered by the water. My husband pulled him out before the wave retreated, but it was a very scary experience for all of us. Luckily, the only casualty was the pair of shoes he was wearing.
Continue to Part VI – Southeast Iceland. Planning a family trip to Iceland? Check out our listing of all Iceland posts or join our Facebook group We Go To Iceland With Kids, which is a forum to ask questions and share ideas about family travel to Iceland.
Reykjavík is the northernmost capital of the world, and is tiny compared with other European capital cities. With a population of about 120,000 in the city limits and 215,000 in the region, a significant portion of Iceland’s 335,000 residents live in this area. But, there is a marked difference from London’s 8.8 million residents. These are our recommendations for the best things to do in Reykjavik with kids.
A large concentration of Iceland’s shopping, restaurants and tourist sites are in Reykjavík. There are also significantly more accommodation options than other parts of the country, and our three bedroom AirBNB about 10 minutes from the city centre provided our least expensive nights of the entire trip. The Blue Lagoon, the most popular tourist site, is located between the Keflavik Airport and Reykjavík, and the Golden Circle and thermal pools were fabulous, but the city center itself was not as exciting as most other parts of our trips.
We spent part of the first day in the Reykjavík area and then had about three full days at the end of our trip. We thought we would take a day trip to the Snæfellsnes peninsula but decided to limit driving at the end of the trip and stay closer to our accommodations. Looking back, we probably would have preferred to spend an extra day in the Southwest, but Reykjavík certainly has lot to offer visiting families with kids within a 90 minute radius.
Central Reykjavik
Hallgrímskirkjais a Lutheran Church in Reykjavik that is visible throughout the city center. The statute of Norse explore Leif Erikson in the front of the church was a gift from the US on Iceland’s 1,000th parliamentary anniversary in 1930. Erikson was the first European explorer to discover the continental North America around 1000, almost 500 years before Christopher Columbus’ journey. 64°08′30″N 21°55′36″W
Kid Facts: Hallgrímskirkja is the final work of State Architect Guðjón Samuelsson, who also designed Akureyrarkirkja. It was commissioned in 1937, and construction lasted from 1945 to 1986. The church houses a 50 foot pipe organ that has 5,275 pipes.
Kid Moment: Kids enjoy the view from above. The church doubles as an observation tower that you can access via elevator (2,000 kr or about $19 for our entire family). Most cathedrals I visited were built well before elevators were invented, and if you want to get to the tower, you need to climb many flights of stairs. There is not as much adventure in riding an elevator, but it is definitely convenient.
Hallgrímskirkja and view from the observation deck
Harpa is a beautiful concert hall and conference center on the harbor that was completed in 2011. There are a variety of shops and a Sterna Travel office that offers day trips on the main level. 64°9′1″N 21°55′57″W
Kid Facts: Construction of Harpa was delayed by the 2008 Icelandic financial crisis. For several years, it was the only construction project in Iceland. Both the Icelandic Symphony Orchestra and the Icelandic Opera perform here.
Kid Moments: Our kids enjoyed the exploring the souvenir shops but actually preferred building rock towers across the street even more.
View of harbor from HarpaHarpa exteriorBuilding rock towers across from Harpa
The Sun Voyager is a stainless steel sculture by Jón Gunnar Árnason located on the sea front near Harpa.
Kid Facts: The Sun Voyager was completed in 1990 and was not intended to symbolize a Viking Ship but a dream boat as an ode to the Sun.
Baejarins Beztu Pylsuris a very famous hot dog stand. Lines are regularly long for 400 kr ($3.75) hot dogs, but we were there at about 9 pm and had almost no wait. My husband and boys ate two each. 64°08′53″N21°56′16″W
Kid Facts: Baejarins opened in 1937. Bill Clinton visited in 2004. The name translates to “The Town’s Best Sausages.”
Kid Moments: Eat at the picnic tables and use the hot dog holders.
Thermal Pools: There are four thermal poolsin Reykjavík. We visited Laugardalslaug and Salalaug Kopavogur. Laugardalslaug is Iceland’s largest thermal pool and extremely popular. It was the only thermal pool we visited where there were more tourists than locals. Please make sure to review our post on pool etiquette before you visit. 64°08′46″N 21°52′48″W
Near Reykjavik
Blue Lagoonis the most popular tourist attraction in Iceland located on the Reykjanes Peninsula about 20 minutes from the airport and 50 minutes from Reykjavik. The man-made geothermal pool is rich in minerals such as silica and sulfur that are supposed to improve the skin. We chose a 9 pm entry because it was available, gave us a full day to spend in Reykjavik and meant we would not have to eat a meal while we were there and our kids never fully adjusted to the Icelandic time zone and regularly stayed up past 11 pm during our trip. It turned out to be a relatively quiet time, and we were the only family with young children as usual. The water is approximately 100° F, and visitors bathe rather than swim. Pool rules are slightly different at the Blue Lagoon than other thermal pools around the country.
Kid Facts: The water in the Lagoon comes from a nearby geothermal power plant and is replaced every other day. Silica creates the water’s milky blue coloring.
Reservations: It is absolutely necessary to book in advance during the summer months and likely all year. Reservations can be made directly on the website. You book a specific hour of entry (but can stay until close after you enter), and admission cost varies based on how far in advance you book and which entry hour you select. I thought I would book after getting a better idea of weather, but when I logged onto the website about a week in advance, I found very few options.
Lagoon Etiquette: While it is required to shower before entering, there are individual shower stalls rather than communal showers. Also, visitors bring their towel, bath robes and flip flops outside with them rather than leaving them on racks near the showers. If you have long hair, make sure it is wet before you enter the lagoon and leave conditioner in while you bathe (it is not recommended that you go under water) to protect your hair from the silica. Use conditioner again multiple times when you are done and use plenty of lotion. Also, make sure you are dry before entering the change rooms.
Kid Rules: There is no charge for children at the Blue Lagoon, but children under age two are not permitted. No proof of age was required for our petite almost three-year-old. There was no visible prohibition regarding use of swimming diapers, but I did not see anyone using them, either. Additionally, all children under aged eight must wear arm bands. Everyone receives a wrist band at check-in to wear throughout the visit. The band is used to lock and unlock the lockers, and the color indicates a child’s age or adult’s package. The adjustable band kept expanding. Helpful guards periodically pointed out to me that mine needed to be tightened, and we ended up putting the kids’ on their legs.
Kid Moment: Make sure to get silica masks for the whole family!
Lava Tunnel Raudfarholshellir is located about 30 minutes from Reykjavik and started offering a family-friendly one hour Standard Lava Tunnel Tour in June 2017. I used my Beco carrier for my two year old and learned at the end of the tour that she was their youngest visitor yet. A four year old in our tour walked on her own with no issues. N.63º 56.407 / W. 021º 23.742
Kid Facts: A lava tube is a natural tunnel formerly occupied by flowing lava. This tunnel was formed after the Leitahraun eruption about 5,200 years ago.
Kid Moments: Notice all the step marks on the cave walls that mark the various depths at which the lava flowed. Also, enjoy the moment of darkness when the tour guide switches off the lights inside the cave.
Golden Circle – Check out our post on the Golden Circle in southwest Iceland.
Continue to Iceland Part V – Southwest Iceland. Interested in finding out more about visiting Iceland with kids? Check out our listing of all Iceland blog posts or join our Facebook group We Go To Iceland With Kids, which is a forum to ask questions and share ideas about family travel to Iceland.
Logistics related to travel in Iceland with kids were somewhat more complicated than many other family travel destinations. Public transportation was not a feasible option for our trip around the Ring Road, and the cost of eating out and availability of restaurants required us to prepare many meals on our own, something we typically do not do on vacation. This was our first time renting a car in Europe and the most expensive destination we ever visited. Here are some of the logistical considerations necessary when planning a trip to Iceland.
Driving in Iceland
The Ring Road is a two lane highway that was well maintained and clear. Many side roads are gravel, and we were glad to have a 4WD vehicle. If you do not rent a 4WD vehicle, many rental car companies do not permit you to drive on F-Roads. The speed limit on the Ring Road is 90 km/hour outside of cities and towns and 70 km/hr in residential areas. There are speed cameras, mostly around Reykjavik, and speeding tickets can be costly.
Speed Camera in Reykjavik
There are a number of specific rules that you need to remember if you rent a car. Headlights and seat belts must be used at all times while driving. Also, the DUI threshold is half what it is in the United States.
We used our Garmin, which was one of the few GPS units that includes European maps. It was very helpful, but having a good map of Iceland is important. It would have been preferable to have brought one with us, but we picked one up at a tourist center early on in our trip. Because of the complexity of the Icelandic alphabet, we did have some GPS challenges and recommend using GPS coordinates when possible, which is why I have included them here when available. The GPS/map combo was sufficient for navigating in a country where we were on the same road for most of our journey. All of our accommodations had wifi, and we never needed to turn on cellular data.
Icelandic Language
When we travel to non-English speaking countries, we learn and use basic phrases as often as possible. As much as I tried, I was not skilled enough to incorporate any Icelandic words into my vocabulary. Even with a pronunciation guide, we really struggled with all the consonants and extremely long words. However, the only place we had any trouble communicating was placing an order at a Chinese restaurant in Akureyri. It was clear that the English was at least the third language of the server taking our order, and even though our boys study Chinese at school, they have not mastered menu ordering. The food came out fine, but it required some humorous pointing.
Food
Food in Iceland is very expensive. While restaurants are usually a big focus of our vacations, we warned our kids that this trip was going to be more about visiting sights rather than enjoying great meals. We were prepared for outrageous prices in restaurants and groceries and were pleasantly surprised to enjoy a number of great meals at not quite so exorbitant prices.
Skyr ingredients, including one of the longest Icelandic words we saw
All of our accommodations had kitchens, and we used them. Our favorite grocery was Bónus. Some of our favorite items include Hamilisbraud bread, Skinka ham, Maribo cheese, Mjukis ice cream, Nutella and barbecue and paprika chips. Skyr yogurt is very popular, but was not our preference. Chicken and produce were particularly expensive, but fish was not, and we enjoyed many meals of amazing seasoned salmon that we baked ourselves.
From the airport to the Lava Tunnel, we passed Reykjavik’s first Costco, which opened only a few weeks before in May 2017. By the time of our June 2017 visit, one in four Icelandic adults was already a member. We arrived a few minutes before the store opened, and there was a line out the door of people waiting to get in. The membership line seemed to be never ending. We heard that the opening of Costco led to lowering of gas prices and produce all over the country.
The membership line at the popular new Costco
We picked up a rotisserie chicken, water bottles, apples, Nutella and Ella’s Kitchen squeezies for our toddler. Honestly, the per unit prices for these bulk items were probably comparable to Bónus, but witnessing the Costco mayhem was worth the visit.
Takeaway is often considerably less than dine in – likely because tipping is not customary. Our favorite was Fish & Chips in Húsavík. Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur is also a wildly famous hot dog stand in Reykjavik that sells only hot dogs and soft drinks and sports a photo of Bill Clinton’s visit in 2004.
Shopping
While we often enjoy clothes shopping and finding items not typically available in the US when traveling, Iceland is definitely not the place for clothes shopping due to extremely high prices. You want to make sure you bring the gear that you might need with you. There are many cute souvenir shops and artists’ studios in Reykjavik, especially near Hallgrímskirkja. Prices are relatively consistent, but if you are looking for a certain item and check out several different shops, you may find slightly different prices.
We did enjoy a short stop at Kringlan, the country’s largest mall, for some souvenir shopping and just to experience an Icelandic mall. Our only purchase was from Eymundsson, Iceland’s largest book store chain that also sells souvenirs. We also stopped at the Icewear and 66 North outlets just outside of Reykjavik because we passed them on the way to our Airbnb. If you want or need to purchase gear, these outlets are the place to do it, but it will be hard to find something comparable to typical US prices.
While the Keflavik Airport boasts that its duty-free is completely tax-free, we generally found that the cost of souvenirs was higher than in the Reykjavik city center or Kringlan. However, the Airport’s Blue Lagoon shop had the lowest prices offered for Blue Lagoon products – even significantly cheaper than Amazon.
Money
It is not necessary to use cash in Iceland. We literally did not exchange any cash because credit cards were accepted everywhere, even as payment for use of a restroom. My kids were desperate for some Icelandic coins for their international coin collection. Thankfully, a nice clerk at Eymundsson in Kringlan, Iceland’s largest shopping mall, added to our bill and gave us two of each Icelandic coin.
Planning a trip to Iceland requires significant planning. Some major considerations include timing, flights, accommodation, packing and cell service.
Timing
Major considerations when planning what time of year to visit Iceland are average temperature and daily sunlight. We traveled in June with daytime temperatures typically in the 50s, and we had no concern about snow challenges. During our visit, the sun set around midnight and rose around 3 am, and the sky was never darker than dusk. Because it was never dark, there is no chance of seeing Northern Lights, which are only visible from September to mid-April (but dependent on weather conditions).
View from our guesthouse in Höfn at midnight on the Summer Solstice
Booking Flights to Iceland
There are a number of carriers that offer flight deals to Reykjavik. We flew on one of Wow air’s first direct flights out of Pittsburgh and had a great experience. Wow air and Icelandair also offer free layovers in Iceland to passengers traveling from North America to Europe through Reykjavik and recently announced direct flights to Reykjavik from Cleveland starting in May 2017.
We did not pay extra for advance seat selection and then worried later that we might have made a mistake and wondered what might happen if we were all placed in middle seats in separate rows. Luckily, we were able to use online check in as soon as it opened 24 hours before departure and secure five seats in the same row. We did get a good laugh thinking about how other passengers might react if they found our toddler sitting in the middle seat of their row.
Iceland Accommodations
If you are traveling during the June-August high season, you need to book your accommodations very far in advance. We started making arrangements five months before our trip, which was completely unheard of for us, but we found accommodation options – particularly around Vík and Höfn – extremely limited and had to spend two nights in rooms of guesthouses with shared kitchens/baths. We spent the other eight nights in our own apartments.
Traditional hotels are not so common in Iceland and often very expensive. We actually did not stay in any hotels. All accommodations we stayed in were extremely clean and included kitchens, something not commonly available in typical US hotels. Due to the exorbitant cost of food, we regularly prepared our own meals.
However, our accommodations did not usually include amenities common in US hotels like soap, shower gel, shampoo, conditioner or a hair dryer, and none had an iron. I made sure when booking that we had access to a washing machine every few nights and would definitely recommend that. Also, there wasn’t a “front desk” at any of our accommodations. It was necessary to make plans in advance to meet the host for the key. Our key was once left in a lockbox outside of the apartment and another time under a flower pot.
We were able to book Airbnb apartments in both Reykjavik and Akureyri but did not find availability in less populated areas of the country. These were our first Airbnb experiences, and we enjoyed having our own apartments. The kids particularly enjoyed bunk beds in our Akureyri accommodation and the large sectional in Reykjavik.
Akureyri AirBNBReykjavik AirBNB
We booked accommodations in guesthouses and apartments for the rest of the trip through booking.com. Booking.com was especially helpful because you can search for accommodations suitable for two adults and three children, even though we took advantage of our daughter’s preference to co-sleep when all we could locate was accommodation for four. The amenity descriptions and reviews are very detailed, so you know exactly what to expect.
Iceland Car Rental
Car rental is almost always the most affordable transportation option for families visiting Iceland, even if you are visiting only Reykjavik. There are lots of day tour options from Reykjavik, but the cost of those tours would well exceed the cost of a daily car rental for a family, not to mention travel from the airport to city centre. If you are planning to travel the Ring Road with children and not taking an organized tour, car rental is essential. Also, if you rent your own car, you have much more flexibility than you would on a tour, and that is key when traveling with kids. Cars are driven on the right side of the road like in the US. While the Ring Road is paved, not all roads in Iceland are paved or even well-maintained. Rental companies permit only 4×4 vehicles to be driven on the F-roads, which are certain gravel roads that are not clearly marked. So, rental of a 4×4 for a Ring Road trip is important. Car rental companies include Northbound, Lagoon, Lotus, Go Car Rental, RAS, Thrifty and Geysir. We rented a Suburu Forrester from Geysir at the Keflavik Airport. A shuttle took us from the airport to the Geysir office, which had a kids’ play area and a free coffee/hot chocolate machine.
WOW air permits a free stroller or a car seat for each child under seven. Because we were not bringing a stroller, we did bring a convertible car seat for our daughter. We knew there was a chance that our LATCH system convertible car seat might not work with ISOFIX, and most cars in Iceland do not have self-locking belts. We brought installation instructions for the seat and safety clips but were pleased that the seat installed perfectly with ISOFIX. For each of our boys, we brought an inflatable BubbleBum Travel Booster Seat. These fit into our suitcase easily but needed to be re-inflated frequently.
Note that seat belts are required for all passengers at all times, and headlights should always be turned on while driving. Also, the DUI limit is half of what it is in the US. You must always be prepared for sheep, cows horses and reindeer straying into or crossing the road. Drivers who injure animals may be liable for compensation.
We had heard that rental companies in Iceland inspect their cars very carefully, and renters are cited for damage more often than in the US. Most rental car damage in Iceland occurs as a result of wind – usually car doors flying open with more force than expected and hitting something. The car we rented had some exterior damage that was noted in our rental papers. However, in the middle of the trip, we could not remember the exact extent of the damage and wondered if we would be cited. Next time, we will definitely take pictures of the car before leaving the rental company parking lot. Our Costco Visa that we used to book our rental car provided additional rental car insurance, but we were fortunate not to need it.
Our rental Suburu Forrester
Packing
Packing for potentially very cold, wet and windy weather has challenges. See our detailed Iceland packing post. It is essential to bring layers and good rain gear. The best packing advice I received was to bring rain pants. None of us had ever owned rain pants, and I was a bit skeptical about whether or not they were really necessary when I purchased a pair for each of us. I left the tags on to return if they ended up not being needed. However, we discovered in the first few hours that they were definitely necessary and served as great protection from both the rain and the wind.
On cold/wet days, we wore hats, gloves, base layers, shirts, fleeces, rain jacket and rain pants. Waterproof hiking boots are highly recommended, but we did not all have them and still managed fine. We each brought a two pairs of sturdy shoes but found that we only needed one pair 90+% of the time. On warmer and sunnier days, a long-sleeved shirt and pants could sometimes be sufficient, but we generally needed to have a light jacket available.
It is important to check airline size and weight baggage allowances. WOW air allows each passenger to carry a personal item (e.g. a small backpack) on board free of charge. However, regular sized carry-ons luggage and checked bags require additional fees, which often raise if you add after booking or check in.
When we booked our flight, we added one checked suitcase for our whole family to share. I worried later that we would not have enough space for all of our coats, gear, pool towels and car seats, but because we chose the items we brought carefully for versatility and planned do to laundry every few days, it turned out to be sufficient. We packed most of our clothes in our individual backpacks that we carried as our free personal items. This method kept our clothes separate and organized. We packed all the gear and large items in the suitcase, which almost exactly hit WOW air’s size and weight limits. If I went back, I would definitely be even more efficient in terms of packing. The most notable items that we did not need were flip-flops (it was too cold to wear them outside, and they were not permitted at pools), pool cover-up and extra outfits.
I found that we definitely had more changes of clothes than we need. We were wearing jackets in almost all of our pictures so you cannot even identify our shirts. Our rain gear protected also protected our clothes, so they did not really get wet or dirty. So, a variety was definitely not needed.
When we wore our rain gear, the clothes underneath really did not get wet, even during the rain (except for the time my son fell into the ocean at Reynisfjara Beach). I found that we had more changes of clothes than necessary and did not really need flip flops and bathing suit covers, which we used only at the Blue Lagoon and not at any of the other pools.
Iceland Cell Service
We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data in Iceland but ended up not using cell service during our trip. We were able to unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings. While most guest house/AirBNB hosts assumed we would have phone service to call them when we arrived, we were able to arrange in advance to get WiFi passwords to contact our host on arrival if they were not already on site.
In addition to usual preparation, there are unique logistical considerations after arriving in Iceland with kids, including driving concerns, the Icelandic language, food and shopping challenges and money exchange. We enjoyed planning a family trip to Iceland.
Our trip to Iceland was our kids all-time favorite vacation. The scenery alone more than makes up for the less than ideal weather. Despite traveling in June, we really did not see many other family travelers but wondered why Iceland with kids did not seem popular. We are glad to see it picking up as a family destination and whole-heartedly recommend it as a fabulous place for a family vacation.
Iceland Summary
We booked our flights, as we often do, on a whim to take advantage of an airline fare sale. My husband forwarded me a Travel Zoo Newsflash announcing Wow Air’s fare sale from Pittsburgh on a Wednesday afternoon in November with bargain round trip flights to Europe – all connecting through a new direct route from Pittsburgh to Reykjavik beginning in June 2017. One or both of us had traveled to almost all the destinations offered, but neither of us had been to Iceland, and we always love a nonstop flight. We did some really quick research, messaged two friends who had recently traveled to Iceland with kids and had five flights booked for June an hour later. While this was not the first time we have booked flights an hour or two after finding them, it was definitely one of the fastest bookings.
Family Travel in Iceland
While we found that some people believe Iceland is a particularly exotic or even inappropriate destination for family travel, we thought it was an amazing location for a family vacation, even with a toddler. Most tourists were adults, but we occasionally saw other families with young children – particularly in the most popular sites like Blue Lagoon, Reykjavik, the Golden Triangle and the Myvatn Lake area.
While cost of accommodation, food and gas in Iceland is considerably higher than other tourist destinations. However, there are many options for budget friendly air fares. Also, Iceland is particularly welcoming to tourist children. Fees for special tours or sites (e.g. the Blue Lagoon, the Lava Tunnel, whale watching, jeep tours, Hallgrímskirkja observation deck) are generally only charged for adults. If there are fees for children, they are usually half price of less for ages 7-13. Most museums, public pools and buffets also have no fees or substantially reduced fees for children.
Very few tourist sites in Iceland have an entrance/parking fee. We did not visit museums, and the only entrance fee we paid was a minimal fee per adult to at Kerið Crater. We only paid for parking twice the whole trip. The downside to no entrance fees is that many sites also do not have the facilities common in the US like a nearby visitor’s center, gift shop and restaurant options. Where there were facilities, there may be a fee to use the restroom.
Iceland is known for rain and wind. We had a few days of rain and wind that I can look back on now with fond memories as if occasional unfortunate weather was a fun part of the experience. The rain was not necessarily extraordinary, but the wind was pretty memorable. It was so strong at time that it could literally blow a waterfall away.
This waterfall did not reach the ground.
Traveling with an Infant or Toddler
Many people are hesitant to bring infants or toddlers to Iceland, but we did not find it to be a challenging destination to bring our two year old. We knew in advance that Iceland is not a place to bring a stroller as there is virtually no use for it outside of the Keflavik Airport where you can usually find some to use. In heavy rain, wind or rocky terrain, I carried our toddler in our Beco Baby Carrier. In cooperative weather, she discovered a new-found love of hiking, often holding hands with her older brothers. They designated themselves “the friends team” on this trip, and that absolutely melted my heart. And, she also gained confidence in the water for the first time at the Blue Lagoon by floating independently with water wings, which were available and required at all the pools we visited.
If you travel with an infant or toddler, you will have a few limitations. For example, children under age two are not permitted at the Blue Lagoon. Myvatn Nature Baths in North Iceland provides an alternate lagoon experience for families with children under two. We were also warned not to attempt hiking up Hverfjall in Myvatn, so we settled for viewing the crater from the road. While we were able to do a number of hikes with our toddler in her carrier or walking on her own, there are definitely more strenuous hikes available that we did not attempt, but we also really did not have time for long hikes during our packed 10-day trip. Traveling with children of any age also means you also miss out on the club/bar scene in Reykjavik, which I have heard is quite an experience.
While we were fortunate to travel diaper-free on this trip, I noticed that there were very few actual diaper changing facilities in bathrooms. However, families renting a car can always use it for necessary diaper changes.
Scenery
The scenery was the absolute highlight of Iceland. Typical natural sites in Iceland include mountains of all shapes and colors, waterfalls, craters, volcanos, geysers, lakes and even icebergs. In addition to beautiful birds, sheep, lamb and horses are seen almost constantly along the side of the road, and sometimes crossing it.Additionally, because most of Iceland is so sparsely populated, there is little development to spoil views. We felt the entire country was so beautiful that all of Iceland might be designated as a national park if it was part of the US.
