Category: india

  • Best Beaches in Asia With Kids

    Best Beaches in Asia With Kids

    Asian beaches are world-renowned for seemingly endless coastlines, and many of Asia’s impeccable beaches are particularly affordable for tourists.  We asked fellow family travelers to share the best beaches in Asia with kids and now have to restrain ourselves from booking one way tickets to any one of these unbelievable beaches.

     

    Agonda Beach – Goa, India
    The palm-fringed Arabian Sea beaches of Goa are an eclectic mix catering to the raver, the yogi, the package sun-seeker and everything in between. So it can be a bit tricky finding the best one for families. After a year living in India, we decided that our favourite was Agonda in South Goa, which features a golden crescent of powder soft sand, dotted with colourful fishing boats and patrolled by meandering cows that congregate in the same spot for sunset every day. It’s a quiet beach, and the sea has  just the right amount of gentle surf for a good boogie-board session  (Sea Star Resort where we stayed, lent the boys theirs). There are also a handful of restaurants serving kid-friendly food (e.g. pancakes, omelettes and chips). But, the best thing is that these restaurants are right on the beach, so visitors can enjoy a Kingfisher whilst the little ones play in the sand. And, those who fancy peeling themselves away from the beach can take a fishing boat out to see the dolphins.

    Recommended by Jenny from Travelynn Family.  Find out more from Jenny about Agonda With Kids.

     

    Choeng Mon Beach – Koh Samui, Thailand

    In choosing a place to stay on Koh Samui, we wanted a swimmable, kid-friendly beach, away from the backpacking and party scenes of Thailand. Choeng Mon Beach is the quintessential horseshoe shaped beach for a tropical getaway. Less crowded and tranquil, Choeng Mon is perfect for families with children of all ages as the Gulf of Thailand waters are shallow, warm, and there are plenty of tide pools to hunt for sea creatures. Kids can spend all day in the bathtub-warm waters.

    Locals sell sliced mango and corn and ice-cream to cool off visitors. At thatched huts along the beach, an hour-long massage costs $8.00USD. Put toes in sand and watch the sunset while eating dinner at Honey Seafood.  A short strip of restaurants also line the road. Walk over in flip-flops for seafood at Garland Samui or enjoy surprisingly authentic Indian at Akbar.  Also, we enjoyed the highly professional 100 Degrees East tour for a day trip to see the Angthom Marine Park and the coral and fish-filled shores of Koh Tao.  Choeng Mon Beach is a great destination for families!

    Recommended by Alison Netzer from Five Family Adventurers.

     

    Dahican Beach – Philippines 

    Dahican Beach in Mati City, Davao Oriental is a relatively unknown and unspoiled beach in the southeastern portion of the Philippines.  Our stay there was short-lived as the mosquitoes were notorious at night, but it is an extremely beautiful place to be. It’s most popular among skimboarders and even surfers so it’s not an obvious “kid” destination. One of the reasons we love it as a family is that it isn’t crowded, and there’s plenty of beach – as in, actual sand, to play in. I has been compared to Boracay, maybe better, though I haven’t been to Boracay. Haha!

    Kids can play in the sand or in the water (with some adult supervision, as the Pacific Ocean waves can be rough at times). Lucky visitors may be able to see turtle eggs hatch! We came a few weeks too late, sadly. There are plenty of local kids for visiting kiddos to play with (and they are pros at skimboarding). Plus, camping is free (or only a minimal fee), which we absolutely loved.  Another way to see the beauty of Dahican Beach is to go flying in an ultra light plane. Children must be at least seven to do this, though.

    Recommended by Pam from Hey, Miss Adventures.  Find out more from Pam about Dahican Beach.

     

    Double 66 Beach – Seminyak, Bali, Indonesia 

    Seminyak is one of Bali’s most well-known tourist spots. It offers plenty of opportunities to go shopping, grab a coffee or to get a taste traditional Balinese food. Above all, it has a prime beach spot for anyone who would like to sunbathe, enjoy the picturesque sunsets or to try out for the very first time: Double 66 Beach. Even kids will have fun here: whether it’s playing in the sand, joining the locals with their daily match of sunset footie or just jumping through the water – with or without a bodyboard or a surfboard. Double 66 beach is home of Bali’s famous beachboys, who do not only rent out sunbeds, but also love taking care of kids. They are the perfect buddy for the day and will keep the kids entertained, promise!

    Recommended by Anne Steinbach and Clemens Sehi from Travellers Archive.  Find out more from Ann and Clemens about Indonesia.

     

    Juara Beach – Malaysia

    The most beautiful beach we visited in South East Asia was on an island off peninsular Malaysia’s east coast. We stayed in Juara Bay on Tioman Island, to volunteer on the turtle conservation project with our children. Juara Beach is on the South China Sea and is perfect for kids: it is protected by the bay so the water is always calm, there are no harmful predators around, and there are several snorkeling areas close to the shore. It is also absolutely stunning and still quite
    un-spoilt too.

    School groups come regularly to stay near the turtle project, but when they weren’t there, we often had the beach all to ourselves! Further along there are hotels and resorts, but it still isn’t a crowded beach by any means. We felt incredibly lucky to experience such a beautiful part of the world together.

    Recommend by Emma Walmsley from small footprints, big adventures.  Find out more from Emma and her family’s Volunteering Experience at the Juara Turtle Project.

     

    Kamala Beach – Thailand

    Kamala Beach in Phuket, Thailand is just a 10-15 minute drive north of infamous party-beach, Patong, but a world away in atmosphere.  It is one of our favourite beaches for families in Phuket. This beautiful two-kilometre stretch of white sand on the Gulf of Thailand has a laid-back vibe, with shallow waters perfect for kids to splash around in, and sunloungers for parents to kick back on. There is a good selection of bars and restaurants lining Kamala Beach that serve up well-priced local Thai and western food, and there are also several beach stalls where visitors can order fresh juices, coconuts, cocktails and beers and have them served directly to their sunlounger. Sunsets are particularly amazing at Kamala Beach!

    Recommended by Marianne from Mum on the Move.  Find out more from Marianne about Kamala Beach.

     

    Koh Rong Samloem – Cambodia

    Koh Rong Samloem, an island off the coast of Cambodia, offers pure white sand and picturesque vistas of the Golf of Thailand.  It’s beauty is comparable to Thailand’s beaches but without the heaving crowds, and although its infrastructure is now well on its way to supporting the tourism of Thailand’s busy beaches, it’s still relatively quiet in comparison and undiscovered by the masses.  It makes a great add on after visiting Angkor Wat. Pro-Tip: I highly recommend taking the sleeper bus to Sihanoukville from Siem Reap by Giant Ibis so you can get the boat over to the island… my two children aged four and seven months slept comfortably on the floor beds.  

    While the island is more expensive than the majority of Cambodia, it’s still inexpensive in terms of western prices, so visitors can get a great hotel that leads straight out onto the pristine white sands.  What makes Koh Rong Samloem particularly kid friendly is the shallow waters.  It is possible to walk a fair way out to sea before it starts to get deep, which means that toddlers can safely play by the water’s edge.  We stayed at Moonlight Resort on Paradise beach, which was a great stretch of beach.  And, with rooms right on the beach front, nap time becomes a breeze.  A bucket and spade were all we needed.

    Recommended by Donna from Mamas Travel Tribe.

     

    Palawan Beach – Singapore

    When locals and travelers want to escape the city, they head to Sentosa Island, which is only a 10 minute drive by taxi from downtown. Sentosa is also reachable by cable car, bus and even a colorful monorail that’s free for kids under three. Sentosa, which is built on reclaimed land is home to multi-million dollar mansions, beautiful beaches as well as Universal Studios and a casino. The three beaches on Sentosa: Tanjung, Palawan and Siloso have soft, powdery sand brought in from nearby Indonesia and Malaysia. All of them are located in protected lagoons so the water is clear and gentle, which is perfect for young kids.

    Each beach has a slightly different feel, but Palawan Beach is definitely the preferred one for families. Palawan has the largest beach, yet it’s not as crowded so you’ll usually be able to find a quiet spot in the shade. When kids tire of playing in the sand or swimming, check out the fantastic free water park called Palawan Pirate Ship or walk across the rope suspension bridge to the islet, which claims to be the Southernmost Point of Continental Asia. Definitely drop by the Palawan Amphitheater for it’s free afternoon animal shows where kids can see and pet animals and birds. The presenters are knowledgeable and make the 20 minute show fun and educational for the kids.

    Recommended by Scott & Nori Brixen of Two Twins Twavel.

     

    Sunday’s Beach Club, Uluwatu, Bali, Indonesia

    Arriving at Sunday’s Beach Club in Bali can be quite confusing for the kids. Visitors arrive at the flash 5 star clifftop resort with a pool. The only way to the Indian Ocean beach is down the cliffs, and the adventure starts with a ride down the inclinator. Finding a bean bag on the sand is a lot of fun, and there is great service for all food and drink needs throughout. Swimming, playing with provided beach buckets, stand up paddle boarding, snorkeling and kayaking are sure to the keep the kids entertained all day. The kids’ menu is a huge hit, and for the younger ones, high chairs are available. Once the sun starts to set, there are bonfires and regular live music. It’s like being on a deserted island but with all the comforts of home.

    Recommended by Kate Comer from Rolling Along With Kids.

    This list of best beaches of Asia makes us want to hit the beach right now.  Check out our Fun Family Beaches in North America, Europe,  Australia and Central and South America blog posts.

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  • Attending Mass on Vacation:  Our Five Most Memorable Experiences

    Attending Mass on Vacation: Our Five Most Memorable Experiences

    Vacation is often a time when Catholic families forego attending weekly Mass due to inconvenience or lack of familiarity.  However, we make a point of attending Mass when traveling and have had some pretty amazing experiences along the way – even when the service isn’t even in English.  By attending Mass, we have the opportunity to see how Catholics around the world are united by this weekly ritual, which is not something you can generally experience by merely touring a church or cathedral.

    Attending Mass while on vacation requires advance planning, especially when we are traveling with or visiting non-Catholics.  We regularly consult Mass Times online before our trip to find Mass schedules for churches near by our accommodations.  The Mass Times site has helped us locate a services for Easter Mass in Toronto, near a work retreat in Columbus, a few blocks from our friends’ Upper East Side apartment in Manhattan and a newly constructed church in Frederick, Maryland.  One of the most unusual Mass experiences was at Basilica of Mary, Queen of the Universe in Orlando.  The Basilica is not a parish and does not have weekly bulletins but was built to service Catholics tourists.  It’s congregation is almost entirely made of up tourists each week.

    St. John Vianney in St. Pete

    Following our favor of fives, here are the five most memorable Catholic churches we visited around the world.

    #1: Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve in Goa

    The time we attended Mass in Goa under the protection of armed guards made me realize that I too often take religious freedom for granted.  We spent Christmas 2006 in Goa, where a terrorist alert was issued indicating that Al Qaeda was targeting the area for an attack on tourists.  The church where we attended Midnight Mass was heavily protected due to the large gathering of Catholics.  Luckily, no attacks occurred, but that truly an unforgettable experience.

    #2: Saint Anthony’s Friary Church and the Holy Ghost Church in Bangalore

    Spending Holy Week in Bangalore was another unforgettable experience.  While Hinduism is the most common religion in India, there are also almost 20 million Catholics.  Holy Week services at our church at home are well attended but the church is not packed.  If you arrive 20 minutes early on Easter Sunday, you are pretty much guaranteed a seat.  The services we attended in India gave “standing room only” a new meaning.  Multiple services are held almost hourly in different languages, and hundreds of chairs are set up outside with large screens live video streaming the Mass.  We attended Holy Week services at Holy Ghost Church and Saint Anthony’s Friary Church.  We arrived at least 30 minutes before each service began to park and then wait outside the doors for the prior service to finish.  As soon as the prior Mass ended, people rush in to find a seat.  Nonetheless, everyone is dressed up and reverent and patient with the large crowds.  The Masses we attended in India were all in English but celebrated with very different music and crowds than we were accustomed to.

    Waiting for Mass

    #3: Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of Saint John the Baptist in San Juan

    Attending Mass on vacation often includes language barrier issues.  While honeymooning in Puerto Rico, my husband and I attended Mass at the Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of Saint John the Baptist, one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas and conveniently located in Old San Juan just across the street from our hotel.  The entire Mass was in Spanish, and while we didn’t understand the exact words being said, we could follow along during the readings, songs, prayers and homily.  The service gave us the opportunity to quietly reflect – a rare opportunity in the excitement of the past few weeks.

    The Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica of Saint John the Baptist

    Our experience in San Juan helped us realize that attending Mass in another language can be quite special as well.  On a recent trip to the D.C. area, the most convenient Sunday Mass for us to attend happened to be in Spanish.  Due to our scheduling Jenga necessary to fit in everything we had planned, we decided that the timing was more important than attending Mass in English.  We forewarned our boys, but our two year old daughter was quite confused and stated rather loudly at a quiet moment of the service that she did not understand what they were saying.

    #4: St. Peter’s Parish in Akureyri, Iceland

    Our visit to St. Peter’s Parish in Iceland was definitely an experience we will never forget.  The entire population of Iceland is only about 330,000, and the country has about 12,000 Catholics, seven Catholic churches and about nine priests.  We were lucky that we stayed in Akureyri, the second largest metropolitan area outside of Reykjavik (with a population of 17,000) because one of the few churches outside Reykjavik is located here.  St. Peter’s is located in a building the size of a house.  The sanctuary was comparable to a large living room and seated maybe 25-30.  The priest flew in from Reykjavik for  Sunday Mass, which was said in Icelandic.  After the service, we were invited to the church hall in the basement for coffee and pastries.  The priest could not attend because he was headed to the airport for another Mass.  Our kids never want to miss our church’s monthly Donut Sunday and were thrilled to find a similar tradition in Iceland.  We sat with a few parishioners and had lovely chats.  My daughter was mesmerized by an older gentleman with a long white beard who she was convinced must be Santa.  We were pretty far north, after all.

    St. Peter’s Parish

    #5: St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City

    We have had some pretty extraordinary experiences even during “typical” English Masses.   While attending Mass at St. Patrick’s Cathedral, my mom and I were fortunate to hear Archbishop Edward Egan say Mass.  Our visit was just a few months after Egan participated in the 2005 papal conclave.  He served as Archbishop until his retirement in 2009 and died a few years later in 2015.

    St. Patrick’s Cathedral
    Archbishop Edward Egan

    When I was leaving for a recent work trip, my daughter reminded me that I needed to go to church in Phoenix.  I wasn’t able to fit Mass into my short, packed, mid-week trip, but was thrilled that she sees travel and Mass to be intertwined.  Our tradition of attending Mass on vacation gives us the opportunity to spend an hour not as tourists but as fellow worshipers.  Despite different songs, prayers and even languages, we are united with Catholics all around the world in our weekly celebration.  This cultural and spiritual experience only enhances our travels.

  • A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    Our family spent three days exploring Kerala during our trip to India last year.  We spent most of our time in India visiting relatives in Bangalore but spent one long weekend in “God’s Own Country,” which is a favorite holiday destination for Prince Charles and Camilla.  Located in South India along the Arabian Sea, Kerala has been known for exporting spices such as pepper, cardamom, turmeric, cloves and ginger for at least five thousand years.  It is baffling to think of a single region known for one trade for that long and no surprise that the food is glorious.  Literally, every bite of every meal was perfection, and we loved visiting Kerala with kids.

    Why Kerala With Kids?

    We were most excited about houseboat tours through the backwaters, which are the most popular tourist attraction of the area.   These boats, traditionally called kettuvallams were originally used to transport rice and occasionally as living quarters for royalty.  The boats have more recently been converted to accommodate tourists for day and overnight leisure trips, complete with a staff to drive the boat and prepare meals.  We were also drawn to the area’s Portuguese influence.  The spice trade brought Portuguese traders to Kerala in the 15th century and paved the way for the Portuguese colonization of the area.  As a result of the Portuguese influence, Christians in Kerala comprise almost 20% of the population, compared with a mere 2.3% in the entire Indian population.

    Visiting Kerala With Kids

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the outside of India.  Arrangements for our flights, hotels, driver and houseboat tour were all made locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept electronic payment and make advance bookings for foreigners.

    Transportation in Kerala With Kids

    We hired a driver named Kiran who picked us up at the airport in Cochin (also known as Kochi) in a specially requested six-passenger vehicle and stayed with us for three days while we explored Kumarakom, Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha) and Cochin.   A private driver may seem like a major indulgence – especially on the smaller, more rural roads, but it was really a necessity on this type of trip.

    Kiran not only transported us safely from place to place but also served as our guide.  He pointed out local sights, flora, cashew nuts trees, roadside coconut stands, jewelry emporiums and even a local temple elephant.  He did not quite understand my need to take the boys to the Arabian Sea, but he took us to the beach nonetheless.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with Kiran, who tailored our trip according to our preferences and made sure we did not miss the very best parts of Kerala.

    Kerala roadside
    Kerala’s greens and blues
    It’s not every day you see an elephant, but Kiran knew just where to find this one
    Fresh coconut water is divine

    Kumarakom and Alleppey 

    Accommodation in Kumarakom With Kids

    We spent two nights at the spectacular Vivanta by Taj – Kumarakom and absolutely loved the property.  This lakeside retreat featured luxury rooms, a private lagoon, boats, bikes, a playground and even bunnies.  The guest rooms were separate cottages situated around the lagoon, so we needed to walk through the beautifully manicured grounds to reach it.  Our room had a wonderful view of the pool, which we had to ourselves the entire stay.  Except for our houseboat excursion, we ate all our meals at the resort and generally enjoyed the activities provided by the resort, evening entertainment and scenery.

    Lagoon
    View of sunset over the lake from the resort
    Duck, duck, goose?
    Breakfast
    Pool fun

    Alleppey Houseboat Tour With Kids

    Most people travel to Alleppey to tour the backwaters on a houseboat.   Day or overnight trips are available, and we booked a five-hour tour through Lakelands Cruise.  There are a wide variety of boats, ranging from pretty basic boats to those tricked out with satellite receivers and air conditioning.   Each boat is staffed with a captain to steer and a chef who prepares traditional Keralite meals.  Even though every meal we ate in Kerala was superb, our lunch on the boat was the absolute best.

    Our boat had covered deck with a large chaise lounge swing and dining table at the front of the boat, an air-conditioned bedroom with an attached bath in the middle and a kitchen at the back.  The front was definitely not baby-proof, so we had to be careful not to let our daughter near the low railings.  I spent most of my time onboard lounging on the swing with our daughter relaxing on my lap.  We also retreated to the enclosed bedroom a few times so that she could run around.

    View out the front of the boat
    A chaise lounge swing is an amazing spot for a nap
    Another houseboat similar to ours

    While traveling the backwaters on a houseboat is pretty amazing in itself, the real excitement for us was really getting a chance to glimpse into the lives of some of the villagers who live on or near the water.  There was constant activity on the river banks as the villagers went about their lives.  We saw many locals bathing, washing clothes and utensils in the water.  For who definitely take modern plumbing for granted, watching people wash in the river is the first thing both boys remembered about this excursion.

    Washing in the river
    Washing dishes
    Doing laundry

    We also saw workers on the rice fields, children walking to or from school, people boating in the river and riding their bikes along the banks.  When we docked by a rice field, the boys got to explore the riverbank, examine the rice plants and see the various states of processing the crop goes through before rice makes it to the plate.

    Paddy field workers
    Coming home from school
    Boat transport
    Biking
    Rice

    In this region, many men wore a traditional wrap cotton sarong called a mundu.  Mundus are usually white or cream with a simple border and are worn folded by laborers and as a symbol of masculinity.  With very high temperatures while we were there, it is also a very practical attire.

    Mundu

    We also saw some beautiful birds along the river, including cranes, egrets and kingfisher birds.

    So many beautiful birds

    I admit that I thought five hours was going to be way too long to spend on the houseboat with three young kids.  At the beginning of the trip, I worried it might be an exhausting day wrangling our daughter.  Luckily, she was very happy to sit with me on the swing and thoroughly enjoyed the excursion.  I found myself more and more relaxed throughout the day and thought we could have enjoyed another hour or two when we docked. Nevertheless, I was glad that we chose not to spend the night on the houseboat with young kids and much preferred our overnight accommodations at the Taj, which were far more luxurious.

    Alleppey Beach With Kids

    On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Alleppey Beach .  I really wanted the kids to have a chance to see the Arabian Sea.  They really do love beaches and not so surprisingly, they needed to dip their toes in the water.  Alleppey is known more for its backwaters than its beach, and this one was almost empty during our visit.

    Dipping their toes in the Arabian Sea

    Cochin

    Accommodation in Cochin With Kids

    After our second night in Kumarakom, we headed back to Cochin along the Malabar Coast.  We stayed at the Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, an exceptional hotel on the harbor.  The highlight of the room for the kids was glass walled bathroom with a privacy blind that raised and lowered electronically with a switch, but they also enjoyed the view from or room.   We had a scrumptious dinner and breakfast at the hotel.  Although, after a busy few days, all three kids fell asleep before dinner was over (a first!).  The outdoor grounds of the hotel were lovely, and our son enjoyed a swim in the pool in the morning.

    View of the harbor from our room
    So sleepy
    Fun elephant sculpture
    The grounds were beautifully manicured
    View of the Arabian Sea from the pool

    Fort Cochin With Kids

    Before colonization, Cochin was a fishing village.  The major tourist attraction of the area are the Chinese fishing nets, which are located at the Cochin Beach and symbolize the history and culture of the region.  These nets were erected in the area starting in the 13th or 14th century and each operated by about six fishermen.  While they have been replaced by modern fishing techniques, they are open for tourists to experience first-hand. Local fisherman are even happy to allow tourists to raise and lower the nets.  My kids absolutely loved our hands on experience pulling up the net.   We visited Cochin beach in the evening and were treated to a beautiful sunset as we wandered through the nearby fish market.

    Chinese fishing nets
    Counterweights
    Helping out

    The nearby farmers’ market offered fresh catch, mostly from boats rather than the nets.  We enjoyed souvenir shopping at the stalls nearby.

    St Francis Church was the first European church built in India.  After his death, Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years until his remains were returned to Portugal.

    St. Francis Church

    Inside St. Francis
    Biking is such a common mode of transportation that the church yard is full of them

    We also enjoyed a Kalripayattu martial arts performance and were the only members of the audience.  Kalripayattu techniques include combinations of steps and postures and use a variety of swords and blades.  At the end of the show, the boys got a chance to participate with the performers.

    The performers’ strength was amazing

    We had a luxurious and truly spectacular vacation in Kerala.  Although we enjoyed seeing the tourist sights, I hope to spend more time relaxing at the beautiful resorts next time we visit.

    Planning a trip to India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Bangalore.

  • Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Bangalore may be known more as an IT mecca than for tourism, but this “Garden City of India” is a great place to experience India. With a population of 8.4 million, it is the country’s third largest city and the capital of Karnataka.  We spent two weeks visiting family in Bangalore when our kids were 20 months, 5 and 8 and had an unforgettable trip.  We can’t wait to return to Bangalore with kids.

    When I first traveled to Bangalore over the 2007 New Year, I saw no more than three other blondes during our five-day visit.  That trip was the first time that I had ever been a minority.  I definitely attracted attention and a fair number of double-takes, but no one ever approached me on the street.  Minorities in the US have historically been treated with suspicion or viewed negatively, but that was definitely not my experience in India.  Indians seemed to be merely intrigued or interested in my uniqueness but not viewed in a negative light.  I was clearly identified as a tourist and constantly encouraged to enter stores.  When we visited again in 2016 with our three kids, we saw far more tourists in Bangalore and “blended in” a bit more.  Here are our favorite five family activities for visits to Bangalore with kids:

    #1:  Eating Out in Bangalore With Kids

    We ate like royalty in India.  Our family’s favorite cuisine is Indian, and all of our kids enjoy some spice in their food. With many meals, my husband and I enjoyed Kingfisher, the most popular Indian beer.  Kingfisher is available in the US, but only a version that is also manufactured in the States and does not taste like the Indian Kingfisher.

    Kingfisher, our favorite Indian beverage, complete with never-ending bubbles

    We ate lunch out daily and enjoyed some phenomenal restaurants, including:

    • Tandoor features palatial decor and traditional tandoori cooking and is located on MG Road.  The butter chicken, milai chicken and roti are our favorites  We loved Tandoor so much that we ate here twice.
    • Chutney Chang is a buffet offering Indian and Chinese dishes where we ate Easter lunch.  The buffet is so large that you have to do a quick preview before you start serving yourself.  And, save room for the delicious desserts.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the cotton candy.
    • Le Brassierie at Le Meridien was another unbelievable buffet where we dined for lunch on our last day in India.  La Brassierie’s buffet offers North Indian, South Indian, Japanese, Chinese and continental food.  When the server heard that we were celebrating our son’s birthday, they brought out an entire cake inscribed with Happy Birthday.  My little dimpled guy has never smiled so big.

    #2:  Bangalore’s Lalbagh Botanical Garden

    After a few hours in Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, it will be clear why Bangalore is known as the “Garden City” in this outdoor oasis located within a crowded city.  We hired a guide to take us around the gardens in an expanded golf cart and thoroughly enjoyed a few hours away from the hustle and bustle (and honking) of the city.

    We particularly enjoyed the 300 year old silk cotton tree, bird watching and generally exploring the foliage.

    #3:  Shopping in Bangalore With Kids

    Shopping was one of our favorite activities in Bangalore.  Almost everything available in India is offered at a fraction of the price you would find in the US.  Additionally, handicrafts made in India and jewelry are so much more unique and interesting.  We made a number of purchases, including a tailor-made suit made to measure for my older son’s First Communion, prescription glasses, jewelry, shoes and clothes.  While I never had trouble with substandard products, shopping at a government emporium is a good way to ensure quality at a reasonable price.

    Some of our favorite shopping areas include:

    • Brigade Road/Mahatma Gandhi Road (aka MG Road) is a popular tourist shopping area with a wide variety of popular international stores including Nike and Adidas.  Both Brigade Road and MG Road are very busy streets, and you have to be careful when crossing, but there are sufficient sidewalks for pedestrians.  Make sure to cross when the locals do.  There are often stalls set up on MG Road, and we purchased belts personally fit to each of us and a Panama hat for our younger son at one of these stalls.  Bargaining at all stores except emporiums and international chain stores is common.  Fast food chains McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Dominos are all available, but we definitely did not waste any of our meals on fast food and didn’t choose “Western food” once.
      • Cauvery Emporium at the intersection of Brigade and MG Road is a can’t miss for authentic handicrafts, including textiles and sandalwood and rosewood products.
      • Cottage Industries Emporium is another government  emporium located a short drive away where we always find amazing Indian handicrafts.
      • PN RAO is a tailor that specializes in made to measure suits.  After picking out your material and pattern, your custom-made suit is ready for a first fitting about a week later.  We had a suit made for our eight-year old who was about to make his First Communion.

        Brigade Road at night
    Handcrafted wooden toys that you can sometimes see being made outside of Cauvery Emporium
    • Commercial Street is one of the oldest shopping areas in Bangalore.  It is extremely busy shopping street known for sale of clothes, shoes, jewelry and electronics.  Sidewalks are not consistently available, and the main street is shared by parked cars, moving cars and a fair share of pedestrians, so you need to use extra caution with kids here.  Soch (my favorite Indian clothes store) and Mex both have large stores here.  I was thrilled that Soch shortened my  kurti to my desired length for no additional charge and had it ready in about an hour.
    • The Forum in Koramangala was India’s first shopping mall development that includes five stories of shops and a multiplex movie theater and a food court.  Soch also has a store here.

    #4:  Religious Celebrations in Bangalore With Kids

    Spending Holy Week in Bangalore was a truly unique experience.  While Hinduism is the most common religion in India, there are almost 20 million Catholics.  My husband’s ancestors come from Goa and Mangalore, which are areas with large Catholic populations.  While some Indians were converted to Christianity at the time of Christ, most were converted during the Portuguese and British colonial periods.  In Goa, it was common for Indians to change their names to Christian names after conversion.  They often adopted the Portugese surname of the missionary who converted them.  As a result, there are about 50 very common Indian Catholic surnames.

    Holy Thursday and Good Friday services at our church at home are well attended but there are always plenty of seats.  If you arrive 20 minutes early on Easter Sunday, you are pretty much guaranteed a seat.  The services we attended in India gave “standing room only” a new meaning.  Multiple services are held almost hourly in different languages, and hundreds of chairs are set up outside with large screens live video streaming the Mass.  We arrived at least 30 minutes before each service began to park and then wait outside the doors for the prior service to finish.  As soon as the prior Mass ended, people would rush in to find a seat.  Everyone was dressed up and reverent and patient with the large crowds.

    Easter 2016 coincided with Holi, a Hindu Spring festival known as the “festival of colors” that is popular with non-Hindus as well.  People cover each other with brilliant colors and spray each other with water guns and water balloons.  We enjoyed watching this joy-filled celebration.  We worried about the color getting in the kids’ eyes and didn’t participate in the bright celebration, but found a great list of tips for celebrating Holi in India.

    Waiting for Mass
    Throwing color to celebrate Holi

    #5:  Sporting Events in Bangalore With Kids

    With two boys, sporting events are always high on their list.  Our trip occurred during the 2016 ICC World Twenty20 cricket tournament, and we watched cricked almost every night.  It was amazing to see my boys fall in love with the sport that their dad grew up with.  Cricket is an extremely complicated game, but they started picking up the rules and the lingo.  My husband purchased tickets to a match held in Bangalore between West Indies and Sri Lanka, and the boys couldn’t wait.  Unfortunately, our oldest spiked a  high fever on the day after we arrived in India, which was the day of match and was crushed to watch from home while his brother had an experience of a lifetime.  West Indies went on to win the tournament in a heart wrenching game against England.  Admittedly, even I enjoyed watching that.

    The boys also had unique experiences playing soccer in the school yard of their dad’s school, St. Joseph’s.

    Our older son also played soccer every night he could with neighbor children in the complex we stayed in.  His brother opted for swimming in the pool where he made a few friends himself and taught himself to swim during our stay.

    We were lucky to have about two weeks in Bangalore and explore at a slow pace.  To make the most of a short visit, check out this ultimate Bangalore itinerary.

    While both boys note that visiting family was the best part of our time in Bangalore, we really enjoyed exploring the city, which was so different than our everyday lives.  Visiting India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Kerala.

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  • India With Kids

    India With Kids

    India is an amazing country for kids to experience.  Our trip to Bangalore and Kerala in March 2016 was our children’s first taste of South Asia and really opened their eyes to the beautiful country their dad called home when he was a child.  In India, they saw two extremes – the luxurious lifestyles of a portion of the population and the challenges of a developing country.  Our most memorable experiences of the trip included countless amazing meals, fabulous shopping, unparalleled street chaos (vehicles, people and stray animals sharing the road) and some luxurious relaxation in Kerala.

    Planning

    My husband and I had previously traveled together to India over the Christmas holidays in 2006.  Our trip included stops in Goa, Mangalore, Bangalore and Bombay, but we knew that we wanted to limit our internal travel on our first trip with kids.  We chose to spend the majority of our time in Bangalore visiting my husband’s family and make only one side-trip to Kerala during our 16 days there.

    We traveled when our youngest was a full-fledged toddler of 20 months but could still qualify as a lap-child, which is how she would travel even if we bought her a seat.  Because we were staying mostly with family, our trip planning for the Bangalore portion required only booking flights.  With the long journey to get to India, we decided to extend our sons’ spring break by a week to minimize school absences.  About five months before our trip, we booked flights from Cleveland to Bangalore on Qatar Airways with stopovers in Boston and Doha.

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the US.  Mark’s uncle was able to help us book our Kerala trip locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept bookings from outside of India.  Nancy also has friends who have highly recommend Tours By Locals to arrange guides.

    Prior to our departure, we secured e-visas.   We traveled on 60-day e-tourist visas but had to apply during a specific window and complete final processing at the Bangalore Airport upon arrival.  It was a bit of an added hassle to our middle of the night arrival, but far less expensive than the one-year visa.  This option made sense for us because we did not expect a return trip in the near future.

    We also made got the necessary vaccines, which include typhoid and Hepatitis A.  Because there was minimal malaria risk in Bangalore and Kerala during the time of our trip, we did not have to take precautionary malaria medicine.  This was a huge relief because all anti-malaria medication have pretty scary side effects.  We carried bug sprays and wipes because the selection and availability of both are limited in India but were glad not to need them.

    Packing

    Because there was no fee for checked baggage, and I was not completely sure what items might be easy to find in India, I packed substantially more than usual.  However, next time we go to India, I’ll bring far less knowing that we are certain to purchase clothes and likely even shoes after we arrive.  Also, it’s important to check the expected temperature, as some seasons can be very hot in India.  It was unseasonably warm during our stay, so the skinny jeans I packed were really of no use.  I recommend packing light-weight clothes.  As always, I traveled with some children’s ibuprofen and adult pain and cold medication even though we knew that medicine was readily available in pharmacies at a fraction of their US cost (e.g. a bottle of children’s ibuprofen cost about $.30). Diapers are probably available, but I would recommend bringing them as well.

    Getting There

    I was worried about how the kids would survive the 30-hour trip from Cleveland to Bangalore.  Before our departure, we learned that the Boston-Doha route we booked was starting service on the day before our departure and featured the United States’ second Airbus 350.  As soon as I stepped on board, I knew that the Airbus 350 was a special aircraft.  It was absolutely beautiful with décor and lighting that reminded me of a night club.  The in-seat entertainment was unparalleled.  All the Academy Award nominated films that I had not had a chance to watch were available even before their DVD releases.  The electronic components were cleverly stored under the floor so that valuable under seat leg room was not sacrificed in the process.  Also, the plane was mostly empty, so my husband and each of my boys took a row of three seats for themselves to sleep, and my daughter and I shared another row.  This allowed us the luxury to get semi-decent sleep for about seven hours of the 12-hour flight.  The Airbus 350 is the way to travel – especially on a long flight when traveling in coach with a toddler virtually connected to you.  When we stepped off, we were sad that we would not be traveling home on this exact plane.

    Airbus 350

    Qatar Airlines ran promotional videos about Doha on all flights and offers complimentary city tours.  Doha definitely looked like a city we would like to visit one day, and we definitely hope to return to Qatar with kids.  However, our itinerary did not permit us to leave the airport.  My oldest son did play a little violin in the airport during our layover for the novelty of playing violin in Qatar.

    Transportation

    India is definitely a challenging travel destination logistically – with or without kids.  If you are traveling to India without local family, you need to make sure to hire a recommended driver and guide for every day that you are there.  This may seem like an extravagance, but it is relatively inexpensive (we paid a driver with a car about $20 for eight hours).  While we often traveled by uber and even auto with no issues, my husband was very familiar with the city, and his uncle always took the precaution of watching our driver’s route from pickup to drop off.

    Traffic is pretty chaotic in Indian cities and watching the other travelers on the road is truly an experience.  The vehicles, people, animals and signs you see and non-stop honking you hear are all so different from anything you see in the West.  Cows were a common fixture along the side of the road, and we once even saw an elephant.  It’s a good thing that it was so interesting to watch because even traveling a few miles can take quite a long time in crowded cities.  Also, car seats are virtually unheard of, and cars are not equipped with self-retracting belts or any kind of LATCH/Isofix system to make them really usable.  Luckily, cars, motorcycles, autos and bikes travel at low speeds. At least, that’s what I kept telling myself.

     

    Common street scene

     

    It’s not everyday you see an elephant walking on the side of the road

    Accommodation

    We were fortunate that we were able to mostly stay with family.  If you are not visiting family or friends, it is advisable to book higher-end or recommended hotels, and 4.5-5 star hotels are generally available for $100-$150/night.  We thoroughly enjoyed staying at Taj hotels during our trip to Kerala and had a wonderful buffet lunch at the stunning Leela Palace.

    Leela Palace in Bangalore

    Shopping

    Shopping in India is pretty amazing.  Most items are a fraction of the cost that you would find them in the US.  On our first trip to India before kids, we bought so much that we had to purchase a suitcase to bring all the items back with us.  We purchased several bedspreads, a rug, two side tables (which came apart and fit in our luggage), a carved lamp, prescription glasses, some handicrafts and jewelry.  While I was there, I felt like I was buying too much jewelry.  But, I found that in the nine years between our visits that I rarely found pieces as interesting, unique and affordable in the US.  So, on our trip last year, I made sure to not limit myself and found several new pieces, which are now in heavy rotation.

    Not only are prices substantially lower in India, but service is amazing.  When we looked at jewelry in a store and returned a few days later, the salesman (or less commonly, the saleswoman) would pull out whatever pieces I expressed any interest in and place them on display as I reached the counter.  In home goods stores, someone would pull out every bedspread or rug that we looked at twice.

    So many options!
    Bedspread displayed for us

    Language Barrier

    Many people think that communication would be an issue in India.  However, Hindi and English are co-official languages.  There are 22 major languages spoken in India, and many Indians speak their local language at home, but Hindi and English are unifying languages.  In our experience, anyone in a service industry role spoke English.  The only times we needed to communicate with a non-English speaker occurred when we were riding in an auto.  My husband’s broken Hindi was all we needed to get to our desired destination.  The prevalence of English surprises many Americans but is an obvious result in a country that was largely a British colony for over 300 years.

    Kid Caution

    Many people asked if it was safe for our kids to travel to India and had specific concerns about healthcare, safe food and water.  If you do have a medical issue when traveling in India, first-rate healthcare is widely available and affordable.  The day we arrived, our son spiked a fever, which soared to 104 degrees the next day.  We were able to take him to an ER on a Sunday and have him examined by a pediatric doctor.  The doctor prescribed medicine and rest and prepared a folder filled with all the details of the examination and recommendations.  We were definitely satisfied by his care and shocked that the hospital fee was a mere $8 and prescribed medicines cost about $1 total at the pharmacy.  After this experience, it doesn’t surprise us that people travel to India from all over the world for medical procedures, including $1,800 heart surgery with outcomes among the world’s best.

    The tap water is absolutely not safe to drink, even when brushing your teeth.  Outside of our relatives’ homes where the water was specially filtered, we only drank sealed beverages.  While this seems odd at first, it is such a common request that servers typically bring sealed beverages to your table so that you are certain that no tampering could have occurred.  There is also a risk that raw fruit and vegetables may have been washed in tap water that can cause illness.  Luckily, the country’s specialties are all cooked food like curries, naan, dosas, biryani and samosas, and cooked vegetables are especially tasty.  We ate our way through India at well-known and higher end restaurants and had no food or water issues at all.

    Because my son contracted a bacterial infection from swallowing pool water in Mexico as a toddler, we were particularly careful with our daughter.  She only used one pool in Kerala, and I held her above the water the entire time she was in the pool.  We were also extra careful when bathing her.

    Because of risks related to food and vaccinations, India is not a recommended travel destination for young babies or women who are pregnant, nursing or planning to become pregnant.

    India with Kids?

    Our vacation in India was definitely more complicated than any of our other trips as a family, but I’ve never seen our boys have so many “aha moments.” Nothing quite compares to the moments they spent playing soccer with local boys in their dad’s school yard, dipping their toes into the Arabian Sea, relaxing on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala, learning to swim in their great aunt and uncle’s pool, riding in an auto, watching us negotiate with salespeople, operating a Chinese fishing net, attending Mass in a church that gave “standing room only” a new meaning and eating the most delicious meals of their life.  If you are aware of the risks and plan accordingly, India is an amazing family travel destination, and one you will definitely never forget.

    Check out Bangalore Highlights and Kerala Highlights.

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