Our family had a lovely journey on the Thello night train from Paris to Venice. My husband and I had each taken overnight trains as young backpackers in our 20s, and we were hesitant at first to travel on an overnight train as a family with kids ages 4, 8 and 10. But, we considered this travel option when researching how to get from Paris to Venice. We discovered a number of complications with the budget flights from Paris to Venice. Arriving in Venice at night is challenging because Airbnb hosts charge hefty late check in fees, and late arrivals also require an expensive water taxi ride into Venice. At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, the cost of Thello tickets was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cabin looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days. The Thello night train also allowed us to travel from the city center of Paris to the city center of Venice without losing much valuable sightseeing time. The Thello sleeper train turned out to be a fun and convenient way to travel from Paris to Venice with kids.
A Trip on the Thello Night Train
Thello Train Booking
We booked our Thello tickets directly through Thello’s website. We printed our confirmation and brought it with us. We chose the smart fare, which is non-refundable and available as low as €29 per person.
Thello Train’s Gare de Lyon Departure
In order to prepare for our Thello night train’s departure at 7:10 p.m. from Paris’ Gare de Lyon, we condensed our family’s luggage into our large suitcase and one backpack before checking out of our Airbnb. We knew that it would be totally impractical to lug around our suitcase and backpack as we explored the Champs-Élysées, the Place de la Concorde and the Musée de l’Orangerie and knew luggage storage was essential. We did some research about area luggage storage and decided that it made the most sense to store our luggage at Gare de Lyon rather than near our Airbnb and have to return to the area before continuing on to the train station. We took the Metro to Gare de Lyon, and I waited with the kids inside the Metro station while my husband exited into the train station with the suitcase and backpack to the luggage storage facility we found online. After he safely stored the bags in a locker, he used another billet to get back into the station to meet us and continue on to the Arc de Triomphe.
We had an unforgettable, luggage-free day of sightseeing that included McDonald’s ice cream and Monet’s Waterlilies galleries, the two best rooms of art my sons have ever seen and not a roller suitcase. We returned to Gare de Lyon about an hour before our departure, picked up our luggage, purchased dinner and waited in the beautiful, bustling station, which was built for the 1900 World’s Fair.
We boarded our train upon its arrival on the platform. Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cabin. So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper cabin at €35 per seat to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family of five. The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost! Similar smart fares are available for this route starting at €29 for adults and €20.30 for children ages 4-14. Considering the low cost, it was not surprising that our cabin was located in pretty far down the platform in coach 86, but we didn’t mind the walk.
Thello Night Train Ride With Kids
When we reached coach 86, we located our sleeper cabin and were pleasantly surprised to find that it very closely resembled the pictures we had seen online. We specifically chose a cabin in the middle of coach 86 so that we would not be right next to the bathroom and really were not disturbed by other passengers at anytime in the journey. There were three seats on each side, and the highest bunks were set up with six sets of bedding. There was luggage storage available over the door and under the seats and six water bottles in specifically designed holders in the wall. Had we known that water bottles were provided, we would not have stocked up on beverages in the train station.
We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun family sleepover experience, and they definitely did. The three level bunk beds were a particular hit, and the Thello couchettes were more comfortable than we expected. As the train journey got underway, we ate our dinner and had a relaxed evening in our sleeper cabin. We enjoyed watching the French countryside that we passed by until the last bit of sunlight bid farewell for the day. Our boys chose the top bunks, and our daughter quickly mastered climbing the ladder up and down to “visit”. We explored a bit but mostly stayed in our seats.
When the conductor came by to check our tickets, she also took our passports. Many train passengers worry about this, but we knew from our previous night trains it was common practice to expedite passport control when crossing borders. There was no WiFi, so we read about Venice in our guidebook and all slept for at least nine hours of the journey. We were able to keep all our luggage with us and lock our compartment from the inside. We felt very safe traveling with kids. Although we would have enjoyed seeing the Swiss countryside, it was dark for our entire journey through Switzerland. Our kids will have to wait for another trip to be dazzled by the Alps.
We somehow managed to sleep right through the alarm I set and woke up when the conductor knocked to return our passports as promised after Milan. It was not long before our scheduled 9:35 a.m. arrival in Venice, and we were a bit frantic to get packed up until we discovered that the train was running late. Breakfast bags with pastries and more water bottles were delivered as an unexpected surprise before our arrival in Venice at about 11:00 a.m.
Our Thello Night Train Review
Taking the Paris to Venice train was a fun and convenient way to travel, and we saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from airports in Paris and Venice and late Airbnb check in fees. One main negative was that we did not have a private bath or the ability to shower. Two and three person premium sleeper cabins with private bathrooms are available on Thello night trains, but my husband and I were uncomfortable splitting our family into two rooms. The only other negative was that the train arrived in Venice about 90 minutes late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in, but that luckily worked out seamlessly. While we flew from Rome to Paris at the end of our time in Italy, it took seven and a half hours door to door, which meant that we lost almost an entire day of sightseeing en route. We will definitely consider a night train as a travel option in the future and would recommend considering the Thello night train with kids.
Find Out More About Visiting Paris or Venice With Kids
Considering a family trip to Paris or Venice? Check out our posts on planning visits to Paris with kids and Venice with kids.
A visit to Venice was an essential part of our family’s itinerary for our summer vacation in France and Italy. My husband and I had each visited Italy previously, but neither of us had been to Venice and were intrigued by the City of Canals. Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, Venice lived up to our expectations and more. Our gondola ride was definitely the highlight, but St. Mark’s Basilica, the Rialto Bridge, Doge’s Palace, shopping and exploring the narrow pedestrian streets were all unforgettable. Visiting a pedestrian-only city requires some special planning considerations, but there are so many things to do in Venice with kids.
Chasing Pigeons in St. Mark’s Square
Planning a Family Trip to Venice
Traveling to and from Venice, Italy With Kids
We booked our trip to Europe a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues. We had discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on WOW air to Paris. However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.
After securing our flights to Paris, we wanted to finalize our transportation to Italy. Before we booked our planned evening flight from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to expensive water taxis. Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and we wondered if we would be able to check in if our flight was delayed. On a whim, we looked into overnight train options. Almost immediately, we found Thello’s night train from Paris to Venice that fit our needs perfectly. The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit and avoid travel time to and from airports. At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.
Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars. So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family. The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost! I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and late Airbnb check in fees.
We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun family sleepover experience, and they definitely did. The three level bunk beds were a particular hit. We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a relaxed evening in our sleeper car. Our boys chose the top bunks, and our daughter quickly mastered climbing the ladder up and down. We all slept for about nine hours of the journey. The main negatives were that we couldn’t shower and the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in. Otherwise, taking an overnight train from Paris to Venice was a fun and convenient way to travel. While we flew from Rome to Paris at the end of our time in Italy, it took seven and a half hours door to door, which meant that we lost almost an entire day of sightseeing en route. We’ll definitely consider a night train in the future.
We departed Venice by taking a Trenitalia train from Venice to Bologna. We planned to rent a car to explore Northern Italy, but found renting a car from Venice challenging because the island is pedestrian only. It seemed easier to take a train to Bologna rather than travel to Venice’s Marco Polo Airport to pick up our car.
Accommodations in Venice
Although we booked our 2 days in Venice only a few weeks in advance, we found an amazing Airbnb in Venice. We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge. This authentic, air-conditioned Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine. The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.
The master suite featured its own attached bathroom with a unique arched doorway.
The kids slept on a pull out couch and single bed located in the apartment’s large living area. This room featured exposed ceiling beams, a kitchenette and dining table. We did not eat any meals in the apartment, but it was well-equipped with all the necessities and even offered children’s silverware.
The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio connected to the master bedroom, the main living space and the laundry room.
Jenny asked that we place a barrier in the door frame of the apartment’s front door every time we left the apartment due to possible flood waters. With the recent severe flooding in Venice, the danger is clear, and we hope that La corte di San Marco did not sustain any damage. We would definitely recommend La corte di San Marco for families visiting Venice and would not hesitate to book this Airbnb again ourselves.
Local Transportation in Venice
We found most of Venice very walkable but did need public transportation to get to our Airbnb. With no roads in Venice, buses or taxis are not an option. The public transit system consists of water buses, which are known as vaprettos. One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas. We are experienced mass transit riders, but found the vapretto system somewhat confusing. After purchasing tickets from the kiosk, riders need to validate at the electronic ticket reader before boarding. Typically, no one checks tickets on the vapretto itself, but a rider without a validated ticket could be subject to a hefty fine.
Lines 1 and 2 follow the Grand Canal, and Line 1 makes 14 stops between Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s Square while Line 2 is the express option that makes only 5 stops. Lines 4 and 5 circumnavigate the main island. Upon arrival, we purchased tickets and were directed to Line 4 because it is the shortest journey from Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s. However, we had to wait quite some time for a Line 4 vapretto to arrive and didn’t have the most scenic route. On the way back to the train station, we chose to take the slightly longer but much more aesthetically enjoyable route on Line 1 through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.
Packing For a Trip to Venice
Our entire trip to Europe was 17 days and 17 nights. Because we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines, we packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person. It was definitely more than we really needed, but I always worry about washing machines not working and want to avoid visiting a laundromat on vacation at all costs. Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees. So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two backpacks with us and also carried an extra bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.
With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, a stroller was a necessity. While we did need to carry our small umbrella stroller up and down stairs at times, especially over Venice’s many bridges, we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping. She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping. We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.
I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing. It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase. As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks. This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.
My packing was efficient, but it was far from perfect. I forgot a few easy to purchase items like soap and shampoo and found that our converter was not compatible with my flat iron. I had read that cathedrals and churches in Italy require visitors have covered knees and shoulders, so we also each brought a few pairs of pants, and I decided not to bring any sleeveless dresses. The rules may have been relaxed because of the July heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited. We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin. At Saint Mark’s, coverings were available for a small fee at the entrance to the church. Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a scarf and left all the pants for me and the boys at home. And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.
Eating in Venice With Kids
A major benefit of using our feet as the main mode of transportation in Venice was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free. We typically sat down for lunch and dinner. Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table. Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look. A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on. We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited in Venice, but we all tried a variety of dishes. My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza. I enjoyed amazing daily seafood dishes, including of seafood risotto and salmon pasta. At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed. We found that restaurants did not provide tap water, so we always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.
We had some fabulous meals during our two days in Venice and visited one restaurant that we would not recommend.
Trattoria da Nino. Following our arrival in Venice and some relaxation in our Airbnb, we headed out for our first Italian meal. We settled on Trattoria da Nino and sat on the outside patio. My husband ordered squid ink pasta, a Venetian specialty, and we had a lovely time watching people pass by on the narrow pedestrian street.
Squid ink pasta
Ristorante AgliArtisti. On the first night, we headed out to find a restaurant showing the France-Belgium Semi-Final FIFA World Cup match. We stumbled upon Ristorante Agli Artisti, which had an available table with a perfectly situated television. Service was impeccable, and the food was wonderful. The eclectic decor included exposed wood beams, grape vines and grapes and other interesting objects affixed to the walls and ceilings, and I especially liked the Murano glass water tumblers. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and celebrated France’s win.
As soon as we paid the bill, my husband asked to reserve the same table for 8 pm the following night for the England-Croatia Semi-Final FIFA World Cup Match. A family from New Zealand with a father who also grew up in England reserved the table next to ours for the same reason the following afternoon. Their three young daughters were not at all interested in the game but excitedly invited our daughter to join them in watching Netflix on their iPad as soon as we finished eating. World Cup soccer might not be a can’t miss activity on everyone’s European vacation, but my husband and sons are soccer fanatics, and that England-Croatia match was England’s first time in the World Cup Semi-Finals since 1990. Unfortunately, the ending was a devastating loss.
Watching the England-Croatia FIFA World Cup semi-final match
Rio Venice di Chen Weili. On our final afternoon in Venice, we ate lunch at Rio Venice di Chen Weili, which was unfortunately our least favorite meal in Italy. Service was slow, the food was mediocre and we were charged a much higher service fee than anywhere else in Italy. Had we had data to check reviews before we entered, we would have avoided this restaurant. Note that we had been warned that many menus (including Rio Venice’s) feature seafood platters priced per 100 grams, which some tourists believe to be a fantastic bargain and order. The surprise comes at the end when they discover they are charged 10 times the advertised price for a 1000 gram meal.
We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast. We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of tasty gelato. The most creative presentation were creative flower-shaped cones. Check out this guide to the best gelato in Venice.
Shopping With Kids in Venice
We generally enjoy peeking into local souvenir shops while traveling but particularly enjoyed checking out all the gorgeous Murano glass in Venice, and our next visit to the city will definitely include a trip to the Murano, a Venetian island. Ever since I purchased a stone turtle on Bavaro Beach in Punta Cana, I’ve looked for the most unique and traditional decorative turtles during our travels. We probably visited every glass shop, looking for the perfect turtle, and of course, ultimately settled on the first one we saw.
One shopkeeper gave us a mini-lesson on how Murano glass is made. My daughter loved the glass and carefully looked at all the pieces while keeping her hands glued to her sides. She chose one of the Christmas trees on her left from this shop.
While the island typography clearly made transportation of goods more challenging in Venice, prices for shoes, clothes and souvenirs were not dramatically inflated. I even found a pair of Geox sandals significantly reduced from what I would have paid in the US.
Restrooms in Venice With Kids
Restrooms are not as widely available in European cities as they are in the US. Free restrooms for customers are often available in restaurants, hotels and museums, but public restrooms typically require a fee. My three year old and I visited a public WC in Venice. The €1.50 fee was only charged for me, continuing the glorious European trend that kids under six are never charged for admission. The restroom fee may be an unnatural phenomenon, but the facilities were clean.
Cell Service in Venice
We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but used only WiFi service in Venice. WiFi was available at all of the Venetian restaurants we visited, and we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi in the evenings.
Currency in Venice
We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency. We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.
Language Barrier in Venice
Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well. My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary. The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where no one spoke English. We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme. It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.
Pickpocketing Warning in Venice
We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious. I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag (review), and diligently kept the clasps locked. Our valuables were all safe during our visit to Venice, and we did not have any run ins with likely pickpocketers as we did in the Rome train station. But, with three kids, I’m often distracted and felt much more secure with my belongings secured inside of anti-theft bag.
Planning Our Italy Itinerary for Venice With Kids
To help get our kids involved with planning our five nights in Italy, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know, which featured Venice’s Andrea Palladio’s Church of the Most Holy Redeemer.
Church of the Most Holy Redeemer
We prebooked our visits to St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace, but made errors in each. We scheduled the 4:30 pm entry into St. Mark’s Basilica without realizing that the Basilica closed at 5:00, making our visit very rushed. And, we mistakenly made reservations for a special exhibit at the Doge’s Palace opening in September instead of general admission entry. These mistakes were unfortunate, but luckily our only booking missteps.
Best Itinerary for Venice With Kids
We spent two days in Venice at the beginning of 10 days in Italy and planned to take a slower pace, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore each city. We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed. Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we saw many of Venice’s top sights during our 48 hour visit. We didn’t have time to visit Venice’s other islands, including Burano or Torcello or the Lido beaches, but next time we hope to explore beyond the main island.
Here is our basic daily itinerary:
Day One – Venice
Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
Take vapretto to Airbnb
Explore Venice streets
Saint Mark’s Square
Rialto Bridge
Gondola ride
World Cup Game
Day Two – Venice
Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
Explore Venice streets
Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
World Cup Game
Day Three – Depart Venice
Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
Train to Bologna
Venice For Kids
We highly recommend a trip to Venice for kids. Make sure to check out our listing of blog posts on visiting Italy, including posts about Florence and Rome.
When we started considering Europe as a summer vacation destination, we immediately wanted to combine visits to both Italy and France. Our three kids, aged 3, 8 and 10, had never been to Italy, and Rome and Venice had been high on my bucket list ever since I visited Florence as a college backpacker. Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, we had a lovely Italian holiday filled with delicious meals and visits to iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites, palaces, gardens and art museums. We enjoyed planning a family trip to Italy with kids and put together this Italy trip planner for other families!
The Colosseum
Traveling to Italy With Kids
Wondering how to plan a family trip to Italy? Start with making travel arrangements to and from Italy. We booked our trip to Paris and Italy a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues. We discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on Wow air to Paris, However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.
When we went to book the evening flight I had found from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to boats. Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and some do not allow check ins after a certain time. Because the risk of not having accommodations was simply too great to even consider, we decided to research overnight trains. Almost immediately, we found the Thello night train from Paris to Venice that met our needs perfectly. The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit. At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.
Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars. So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family. The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost! I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and Venice and accommodations with late check in fees.
We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun sleepover experience, and they definitely did. The three level bunk beds were a particular hit. We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a particularly relaxed evening in our sleeper car. Our boys chose the top bunks, and my daughter quickly mastered the ladder. We all slept for about nine hours of the journey. The only downside was that the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in. Find out all about our trip on the Thello night train.
We booked an EasyJet flight from Rome‘s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy. Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372. Although it is only a two-hour flight, it took about seven and a half hours from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre. We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train experience.
Travel Within Italy With Kids
We traveled in Northern Italy by both rental car and train. We took Trenitalia from Venice to Bologna, where we picked up a rental car to take us to the Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum, Pisa and San Gimignano, and we returned our car upon our arrival in Florence. We traveled via Trenitalia again from Florence to Rome, a quick 90 minute journey.
Renting a car was a convenient way to make a bunch of stops slightly off the beaten path without having to worry about storing luggage, which was our major concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day. However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging. We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into a limited traffic zone on more than one occasion. As a result, our preference was definitely traveling by train between cities whenever possible. Find out all about renting a car in Italy.
Our rental car
Accommodations in Italy With Kids
Although booked our trip only a few weeks in advance, we were very pleased with our accommodations in Italy.
Accommodations in Venice
We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge. This authentic Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine. The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment. The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio. I noticed a pack and play and high chair in the laundry room and children’s silverware in the drawers that would be extremely helpful for families with babies or toddlers.
La corte di San Marco Airbnb
Accommodations in Pisa
Our Pisa hotel, the Relais I Miracoli Residenza D’Epoca was located literally steps from the Tower of Pisa and had the most spectacular view from our window. Only two rooms in the hotel have this view, and they are both family rooms. Our room was comfortable, and a stocked mini bar and breakfast at the cafe downstairs were included in the room rate. We parked our car overnight outside the city walls about five minutes away.
View from our hotel room
Accommodations in Florence
We stayed in an Airbnb about a five minute walk from the Duomo. This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room. It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine. We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train. Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.
Our Florence Airbnb
Accommodations in Rome
We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb. This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs. The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible. David was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine. David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out. We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.
Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb
Local Transportation within Italy With Kids
We found most of Italy very walkable but did need to travel at times via vapretto, metro or taxi.
There are no typical buses or subway system in Venice. The metro are ferry boats, which are known as vaprettos. One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas. Because our Airbnb was centrally located near both Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge, we only used a vapretto for the round trip journey from the train station to the apartment and walked the rest of our time in Venice. On the way back to the train station, we took a slightly longer but much more scenic route through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend. Find out more about vapretto travel in Venice.
View from the vapretto in Venice
While Rome was also a very walkable city, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly. We took only six Metro rides during our five days in Rome. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6, 3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24, but because we used the Metro so infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding. Children under 10 do not require tickets. Find out more about Metro travel in Rome.
Ticket machine in Rome’s Metro
We did not use public transportation at all in Florence, but we did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb. We also traveled by taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50. Taxis were convenient because we avoided schlepping our kids and bags through the streets of Florence while getting our bearings and on the train and Metro in Rome. Our drivers were particularly professional, and we even got a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.
Packing for a Family Trip to Italy
Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines. We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed. But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat. We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats. Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees. So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.
I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses. The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited. We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin. Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively. Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home. And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.
Our luggage
With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us. While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping. She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping. We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.
I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing. It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase. As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in ziploc bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks. This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a backup in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip. Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival. However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase. We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase. When the suitcase didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US. Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.
Ziploc organization
We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs. But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops. I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip.
Eating in Italy With Kids
A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free. We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to the England semi-final World Cup match). Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table. We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante. Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look. A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.
We found the perfect table to watch the World Cup, so we booked it for the next night
Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front. We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes. My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza. I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto. At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed. We found that restaurants did not provide tap water but always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal. Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.
Our favorite restaurant in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome. In Florence, we enjoyed our dinner at I Ghibellini so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.
There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal. The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight. One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.
Alice Pizza
I loved starting off my morning with a perfect cup of cappuccino served at the counter of the coffee shop next to our apartment. Like most coffee shops, alcoholic beverages were stored on higher shelves so that it could double as a spot to grab an early evening drink.
Pro Tip: A “coffee” in Italy is really an espresso shot. Because this is not my preference, I always opted for a cappuccino but read Cafe Americano is a close substitute as well.
Morning cappuccino
We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast. We did not find a grocery in Venice, Pisa and Florence and found any snacks or produce at corner shops rather outrageously priced. However, we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome. We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the water fountains around the cities.
Our most artistic gelato
Cell Service in Italy With Kids
We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment. WiFi was usually available at restaurants, and it was nice to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.
Currency in Italy With Kids
We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency. We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.
Language Barrier in Italy With Kids
Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well. My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary. The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where none of the servers spoke English. We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme. It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.
Pickpocketing Warning in Italy With Kids
We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious. I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked. If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp. We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station. A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller. While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available. However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage. Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator. Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor. We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy. After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.
To help get our kids involved with planning our Italy family vacation itinerary, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice, Florence and Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know. We initially hoped to make quick stops in Padua, Bologna and Sienna, but later determined that we did not have enough time to tack on even brief visits to additional cities. The key to finding the best Italy itinerary for families is to prioritize cities to visit and allot enough time in each one.
Family Trip to Italy Itinerary – 11 Days
We spent 11 days in Italy in the middle of a 17 day European vacation. We planned to take a slower pace when possible, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore the city. We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed. Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many wonderful cities and sights. We weren’t able to fit in trips to Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast this time, but both are high on our list for our next trip.
Here is our basic daily Italy with kids itinerary:
We definitely recommend Italy family travel. We hope this guide outlined how to plan a family trip to Italy. Make sure to check out our listing of all blog posts related to travel to Italy with kids!
The Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum hosted our family’s visits. As always, all opinions are my own.
Guest Blogger: Jade and Ryan were busy planning a month long trip away from home when they found out Jade was expecting. They didn’t let that deter them – they just brought along their three month old… For more on the Davies family, from East Gippsland, Victoria, Australia, follow them on Instagram.
In April 2017, we spent six glorious days in Tuscany with our three month old infant, Henry. Our time in Tuscany was at the end of a month long vacation that began with five days in New York City and 14 days in the UK visiting family.
Who spends a month living out of a suitcase with a three month old infant?
We had just started planning our month long trip when we found out I was pregnant. Although we did pause, many times, and wonder whether we should just wait and take the trip when the baby was older, we really had no option to turn back or cancel the trip as we were traveling with family, and they had already booked their flights. So, we plowed on and continued making plans even though the trip would ultimately require us to live out of a suitcase for a month with a three month old infant!
How did we prepare for a month long vacation?
Prior to having kids, we had traveled extensively, but most of it was of the backpacking variety that did not require much prior planning or organization. Knowing that I would be traveling around the world with an infant, I thought maybe I should have more of a plan. So, I began first by researching transportation options to figure out the logistics of flying and traveling with an infant and all the items required. My biggest concern was how to transport our family while traveling with an infant – train? bus? taxi? car hire? We opted to rent a car and mostly used it to get around although buses and cars were our usual mode of transport before kids.
How did we get to and get around in Italy?
We flew from Bristol, UK to Pisa, Italy with Easyjet Airlines on an early morning direct flight that took just over two hours. This gave us a whole day of travel upon arrival. I happily grabbed the window seat, which I prefer as it tends to give us a little more room to stretch out, and Henry slept the whole way. I had already booked a car for pick up at the airport, and the rental car company provided a car seat, which we were able to install ourselves. Car seat laws differ by country and rental car companies don’t always provide car seats, so we inquired ahead of time.
It was a one hour drive from the airport to where we were staying, and the car came equipped with a navigation system, which provided super easy instructions in English. Henry does not mind the car, so he slept most of the way.
Where did we stay?
We rented a gorgeous two-bedroom apartment on a hilltop overlooking Tuscany, located in Uzzano, a commune in the province of Pistoria. The apartment was truly amazing – it came equipped with a full kitchen, laundry, two bedrooms, and two bathrooms. We had plenty of space, which was great, as my parents were also traveling with us. The only downside to the apartment was its location – about an hour long drive to Florence and an hour to Pisa, so while this would not have been ideal if we had only been in Tuscany for a short time and/or did not want to rent a car, this was a great location for us because of the space and the amenities. We also spent one day in Uzzano, exploring the small town that consists of about four streets and a big church on the top of the hill. Henry needed a rest day after our day trip to Venice, so Uzzano was a great place to have a relaxing, low key day.
Our apartment complex
View from our home base.Our rest day in Uzzano.
What did we do?
Given the location of our accommodations and our use of a rental car, we decided to break out trip up into small day trips. Over the course of six days, we took day trips to various destinations around Italy. Although we frequently found ourselves wishing we had more than one day to explore any particular city, it was a good overview and having a designated place to sleep was nice, given that we were traveling with an infant.
1. Pisa
Our first adventure was to visit Pisa, a small walled city. We literally followed the road signs saying “Leaning Tower of Pisa” and the paid parking signs…. which led us to a parking spot right across the road from the famous tower. We paid 15 € to park there for the day and just took our stroller with us. The city was flat and easy to get around with the pram. We wandered around the Leaning Tower and the surrounding buildings and took all the cheesy tourist photos that you would expect… it had to be done. There was a one hour wait to get into the building itself, so we just looked from the outside. We enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of pizza, pasta and breads, from a restaurant on the street leading away from the tower. After lunch, we strolled the streets and just enjoyed the beautiful architecture, before grabbing gelato and heading back to the car.
We had to!
On the way back to the house, we stopped at Villa Garzoni, the beautiful home where Pinocchio author Carlo Lorenzini spent his childhood. It was about 22 € per person to enter, but well worth it. Collodi, the town where Villa Garzoni is located, is roughly one hour driving distance from Florence, but would also be a great day trip, especially for those traveling to Italy with older kids as there is a Pinocchio gallery to visit as well.
Villa Garzoni
2. Florence
The city center of Florence is a no drive zone, so we had to park outside the city and walk. We parked at a parking lot near the train station, which cost about 20 € for the day. Knowing we would be doing a significant amount of walking, we took the stroller and used it heavily, including on the 15-20 minute walk from the train station into the heart of the city
Our first stop in Florence was the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, a city square that features Santa Maria Novella, a Gothic Renaissance basilica completed in the 14th century. We picked up a coffee before heading over to San Lorenzo Market. As we meandered along the winding streets, we stumbled across many beautiful buildings and churches.
Once we arrived at San Lorenzo Market, we all enjoyed delicious pizza made from the fresh produce sold at the downstairs market. It was exciting to be in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the marketplace and we loved every minute of it. After lunch, we went on a mission to find the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, a Renaissance Palace that I learned about in school and was eager to visit. The Palace is now the seat of the Metropolitan City of Florence as well as a museum, and I was thrilled when we spotted a local artist showing her work in the downstairs gallery.
San Lorenzo Market
From the Medici Palace, we went to Santa Maria del Fiore (commonly known as the Duomo), which unfortunately, was completely booked and had a 2.5 hour long wait to tour. Traveling with an infant, we did not think it would be wise to wait, so we just enjoyed the beauty of the Duomo and adjacent Florence Baptistry from the outside. We were also disappointed that we did not get to tour Uffizi Gallery, which was closed for renovations.
The magnificent Duomo
During our day in Florence, we also crossed the Ponte Vecchio, a medieval stone closed-spandrel segmental arch bridge over the Arno River. We loved walking along the river, getting lost in the beauty, architecture, and culture of Florence. We made sure to enjoy gelato from one of the many shops around the city.
Ponte VecchioGelato – yum!
We also saw the replica of Michelangelo’s David at the Palazzo Vecchio. The original was originally placed at the same location but moved indoors to the nearby Galleria dell’Accademia for conservation.
Pro-Tip: We visited the first week of April, and there were so many tourists that we got blocked out of visiting many locations, like the Duomo. Be sure to pre-book any items that are on your bucket list to ensure the opportunity to visit.
3. Cinque Terre
La Spezia is located in the Liguria region of Northern Italy, and is the start of the Cinque Terre, a rugged portion of coast on the Italian Riviera that consists of five villages. It was a 90 minute drive from our house to La Spezia, which took a good chunk of time out of our day. Once we arrived in La Spezia, we took the train that departs from La Spezia station every 20-30 minutes and stops at every town along the Cinque Terre for those who don’t want to or can’t walk it. With an infant, we had no illusions of walking it and used the Ergo 360 on this day trip instead of the stroller for ease of maneuverability.
Our first stop was at Monterosso al Mare, which happens to be the last town on the Cinque Terre line and the only town that has its own beach. We strolled the historic old town at our own leisurely place and enjoyed popping in to visit beautiful old churches.
From Monterosso al Mare, we boarded the train to Vernazza, the quintessential Cinque Terre town. We enjoyed lunch at one of the restaurants leading down tot he waterfront and afterwards, walked up the cliff side overlooking the town.
Unfortunately, by the time we stopped to check our watches, it was time to jump back on the train to La Spezia and drive back home for a late dinner. I wish we had one extra day to explore the other towns, but the distance from our home base was just too great. I was glad to use the carrier, rather than the stroller because most of the towns along the Cinque Terre were on the side of a cliff and maneuvering the stroller on/off the train would have been not only tricky, but exhausting.
4. Venice
Our day trip to Venice was long as it began with a one hour long drive from our house to Florence, and then a two-hour train ride to Venice. Henry hated the train and was very upset during the entire ride, which I spent walking him up and down the aisles to try and calm him down.
We arrived in Venice at 10 am, which gave us plenty of time to explore and take our time strolling around the canals and taking in the stunning architecture. There were tons of restaurants and churches on every corner, so definitely take your time and enjoy the sights. One easy way to cover a lot of ground is to go on a gondola ride, but we found on a previous trip that it was beneficial to negotiate with a vendor instead of just using the first one that you see, as they will likely spot that you’re a tourist and charge you quite a bit more than if you just put in some leg work.
Pro-Tip: Avoid taking your stroller to Venice, if possible. We brought our stroller because of forecasted rain and cold temperatures but had trouble managing with it over the bridges and stairs. It would have just been easier to use a baby carrier instead. It can be extremely expensive to stay in Venice, but take a look at main land options and consider catching a ferry/boat or train across to spend the day in Venice.
5. Montecatini Terme and San Gimignano
We spent our last day in Tuscany visiting the towns of Montecatini Terme and San Gimignano. Montecatini was close to our home base in Uzzano, so we thought this would be a great location to visit. The town was filled with stunning old bath houses and the landscape was gorgeous; unfortunately, they were still closed for the season. I would highly recommend visiting Montecatini and its bath houses in the summer.
On a whim, we decided to drive to San Gimignano, because it was so close to Montecatini. WOW, am I glad we did! San Gimagnano is a small walled medieval town perched on top of a hill. We took advantage of the public parking (5-10€ for the day), but you can also just catch a bus into the city or walk. We arrived just in time for lunch and ate at a restaurant in the Sant’Agostino Square. The weather was absolutely brilliant, so we sat outside and had pizza and drank vino. Afterwards, we walked the streets and did some last minute shopping, while on the hunt for the world’s best gelato.
Final Thoughts
We ate a lot of pizza, wine, and gelato during our time in Italy, but we love Italian and the food was amazing. While we did eat a lot, we also felt like we did so much walking that we burned off quite a few calories. Because we visited touristy locations, we did not experience any language barriers. It was easy to buy diapers and wipes locally. If we went back, we would prefer to stay in metropolitan areas and spend more time exploring each city. The rental car was convenient, but we might try exclusively using trains next time. Although we did a lot of driving, we loved every minute of it and definitely recommend exploring Italy with kids.
Lines 1 and 2 follow the Grand Canal, and Line 1 makes 14 stops between Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s Square while Line 2 is the express option that makes only 5 stops. Lines 4 and 5 circumnavigate the main island. Upon arrival, we purchased tickets and were directed to Line 4 because it is the shortest journey from Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s. However, we had to wait quite some time for a Line 4 vapretto to arrive and didn’t have the most scenic route. On the way back to the train station, we chose to take the slightly longer but much more aesthetically enjoyable route on Line 1 through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.
