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  • Travel Tips: Flying With Kids

    Travel Tips: Flying With Kids

    When traveling with children, it is important to arrive at the airport early because getting to your plane will take longer than it would if you were traveling without children.  For families traveling with lap children under age two, make sure to go to the check-in desk upon arrival to inquire whether the flight is full.  There is no fee to make this request, but also no guarantee that the seat will stay open.  Nonetheless, many times, we were moved to a row where we could take advantage of an empty seat, and gate attendants often blocked a seat in the system or even assigned it to us so no one would take it when there were sufficient extra seats on a flight.  After I knew what to expect, flying with kids was so much easier.

    Car Seats for Kids

    There are few instances where it makes sense to bring a car seat on board. You have to weigh the difficulty of getting the car seat to the gate against the potential benefit of having the car seat onboard.  If you are guaranteed or likely to receive a vacant seat for your infant, and their infant seat locks into your stroller, it might be worthwhile.  The car seat will have to be installed at window seat because there is no access around it.  Many children sleep better in a car seat than in their parents’ lap.  We have done this a few times because it always “seems like” a good idea, but basically, my babies usually prefer sitting with Mom or Dad, and it is a struggle to get the seat to the plane and then also to figure out a way to fit the seat into the overhead compartment to take advantage of the empty seat.

    A car seat might be useful for a child under two and a half who is in a paid seat. If you have purchased a seat for your infant or toddler, you are likely going to want to take advantage of it, but a child under two and a half may have trouble sitting in their own seat with a belt during takeoff and landing.  We have not traveled with a child between ages two and two and a half, but flight attendants have double and triple checked on my petite children when flying in a required paid seat under aged three.

    Strollers for Kids

    We rarely check strollers during the check-in process because we find the stroller extremely useful in getting to the gate. It can be a long walk, and a stroller can also serve as a partial luggage cart to store a few backpacks and jackets underneath. I often tuck my baby carrier in a convenient spot and pull it out if our baby gets fussy or we determine it is more effective to use the stroller as a full-fledged luggage cart after relinquishing ours before security.

    TSA PreCheck for Kids

    We do not have TSA PreCheck but understand it is a great perk.  Going through security with kids can be a bit of adventure. Luckily, most airports shepherd us to the family/express line.  In addition to the usual TSA rules, strollers need to be collapsed and run through the x-ray machine.  It’s helpful to put your shoes in the first bin, and take the baby out of the stroller only after you have placed all other items on the belt and taken your shoes off, if necessary.  If you have a non-walker with you, an adult can carry the child through the metal detector, but the child generally has to be removed from a carrier or sling.  Walking toddlers are encouraged to walk through on their own, but I have been told many times that it is also fine to carry one of mine through.

    My husband and I often have a brief strategy session where we identify who is responsible for which items and even assign specific items to our boys to collect. After your items come through the x-ray, open the stroller and put your baby in first before gathering the rest of your items.

    Play Areas for Kids

    Play areas are becoming more popular in airports. Our favorite was in Doha, Qatar, which had a massive indoor playground and also smaller satellite playgrounds on different concourses.  My 20-month old daughter who had learned to walk at the end of the previous summer was finally steady enough to climb up a slide on her own.  So, she had her first independent playground/slide experience in Doha’s airport.

    Pittsburgh International Airport also has a play area sponsored by the city’s amazing Children’s Museum of Pittsburgh. Our kids had a blast in this interactive area.  I chuckled when I noticed that it was clear that a parent had actually not designed the space that had several full and half walls obscuring the view from the stadium seating created for parents.

    Play Area at Pittsburgh International Airport

    Boston’s Logan International Airport also has Kidport play area that is wonderful for kids and rocking chairs overlooking the planes.

    Kidport at Boston’s Logan International Airport
    Rocking chairs with a view of airplanes

    If you are traveling with a stroller, make sure to check in with the gate attendant and get a tag for gate-checking. Unless directed otherwise, you bring your stroller down the jet way and leave it as you enter the plane.  You may need to wait on the jet way after deplaning for the stroller to arrive.

    In the Airplane With Kids

    We found that traveling with babies was easier than toddlers.  Our babies really liked to be held and cuddle and could get comfortable in our laps.  When traveling with a baby, make sure to nurse or feed the baby a bottle during take off and landing to help prevent ear pressure.

    When flying during a time where it is optimal that your kids to sleep, do everything possible to make sure that they do sleep during the flight. This may require adjusting their bedtimes in the days before you travel.  Once the plane is cruising, you can raise the arm rests and have your child use your legs as a pillow and rub their backs until they fall asleep.  They generally should be able to remain belted while they rest.  We were really lucky when traveling from Boston to Doha because the plane had so many empty seats that my husband and two boys were each able to take a row of three seats for themselves and stretch out overnight while my toddler daughter and I shared the fourth row.

    If sleeping is not an option, I let each of my kids pick a few books and small activities to bring with them. I was really concerned about the 30 hours of transit time between Cleveland and Bangalore, but the in-flight entertainment on Qatar Airlines was so amazing that I generally found that I had over packed “activities” for the flight.  One book, a few Suduko puzzles, a small journal and a deck of cards is usually plenty, especially if you have in-flight entertainment or some shows downloaded on an iPad and necessary earphones.  Other family favorite travel games include picking a category (e.g. food or location) and going through the alphabet in order taking turns naming an item in the category that starts with your letter, e.g. Apple, Banana, Cucumber….

    If you are prepared for your airplane trip with kids, the experience will be smoother for everyone.

    Traveling with kids?  Check out our other Travel Tips, including Preparing to Fly.

  • Travel Tips: Preparing to Fly With Kids

    Travel Tips: Preparing to Fly With Kids

    Most of our trips require airplane travel, which requires research and preparation.  Here are five ways to prepare for a flight with kids:

    #1:  Booking Flights

    Booking flights is the first step in travel planning. Because we now need five air tickets, flight cost is a huge consideration for any vacation.  My husband and I are not loyal to a certain airline, so we have not accumulated useful points on any one airline to use for vacations.  We also have not mastered credit card points like Nancy.  Instead, we look for direct flights that fit our schedule at the lowest possible cost. We have been able to take advantage of some great fares because of our research and willingness to drive from Cleveland to airports in Akron, Pittsburgh and even Toronto airports.

    We are constantly monitoring flight costs to various destinations we would like to visit. While we are often tediously thorough when making purchases of household items (like the time we looked at dining room chairs at more than 20 different stores before we made a purchase), we are able to react quickly, make a decision and book a flight when we find a deal.  Several times, we have booked a flight within tw`o hours of finding it – even if we were not focused on a particular destination, and we regularly mull for less than a few days after we have identified a specific flight.

    There are a wide variety of travel websites, but I favor Google Flights, because it is easy to search the lowest return fares in a calendar view. Also, fares for budget airlines like Spirit Airlines and Frontier Airlines are included, but it is necessary to search Southwest Airlines separately.   We also monitor Travelzoo and once set aside Martin Luther King weekend for a potential trip and then took advantage of a weekend fare sale announced the previous Tuesday to fly to New York City.

    Families flying with a child under age two likely do not have to purchase a separate seat for their infant or toddler, but may need to pay taxes or fees.  Some airlines make it challenging to add a lap child during online booking, and we have had to call the airline directly to have a lap child added to our itinerary.  Some families try to pick a time of day that fits best into their children’s nap schedule. Our kids have never had strict sleeping schedules, and that gives us more timing flexibility.  We try to find direct flights that depart from Cleveland early in the morning and return late at night to optimize our time at our destination and avoiding additional hotel costs needed for an evening arrival or morning flight home.

    We always try to select window and aisle seats. When we needed only four seats, we aimed for two windows and two aisles in the same row.  If the middle seats remain empty, we had the opportunity to spread out.  Extra fees for seat selection are relatively common.  While we never pay this extra fee, we always make sure to check-in online exactly 24 hours before departure.  Websites like Airline Checkins and apps like Airline Flight Check-In World will check passengers in to their flights as soon check-in is available, but I have never personally tried these services.

    #2:  Check Baggage Policies

    Before booking a flight, it is really important to review the airline’s baggage policy. It used to be standard for airlines to permit all passengers to carry on one small suitcase and a personal item and often check one suitcase as well with no fee.  However, a fee for checked luggage is now almost standard, and it is becoming more common for budget airlines to charge for carry on items larger than a backpack.  Domestic airlines continue to allow families to check in or gate check strollers and car seats, but WOW air permits only a free stroller or car seat for children under seven.

    We recently booked a flight to New Orleans for $83 round trip, and the least expensive baggage charge was an additional $42 if the bag was added during booking. That is more than 50% of cost of the seat.  It is important to consider baggage fees when comparing fares and also often necessary to add desired luggage at the time of booking to avoid additional fees.  Cheapflights has a great summary of airline’s baggage allowances and policies regarding children for a quick comparison.

    #3:  Packing

    It’s helpful to use a packing list (like our ultimate packing list) when preparing for any vacation.  For families traveling with a baby who is either nursing or likely to lie on a parent’s lap during the flight, an inflatable travel nursing pillow is very helpful.  It fits easily in carry-on luggage and is easy to inflate after boarding.  Our babies (and our arms) were so much more comfortable when we brought this with us.

    Before you leave for the airport, re-check your airline’s baggage size and weight guidelines and make sure your bags are not too big or too heavy. Although most airlines do allow some wiggle room, it is always safest to know that your luggage will not create an issue.  Make sure that any liquids in a carry on are packed in containers of 3.4 ounces or less and that all liquids fit into one quart-sized re-sealable plastic bag per person.

    Infant and child “nourishments” are exempt from TSA’s normal liquid rules, but make sure to review TSA’s guidelines on traveling with children for rules about formula, breast milk, juice and baby food. Basically, reasonable quantities of formula, breast milk (even for mothers traveling without their babies), juice and baby food typically is permitted through security, but it may be subject to extra security tests.  I was asked once in London almost 10 years ago to “taste” the milk from my son’s bottle, but that is no longer common practice.

    #4:  Identification

    On domestic flights, identification is generally not required for children but is especially important for lap children and older teens who may appear to be over 18. It’s best to have a birth certificate or immunization record to prove the age of any lap children traveling without a passport.  Even though I don’t know if we have ever been asked for proof of age, it is not worth the risk to try to slip a two year old through as a lap child as there is a possibility of needing to purchase a last-minute, full fare ticket for a child.

    #5:  Preparing the Kids

    Especially if we have an early morning flight, it is important that our children know exactly what the “plan” is. I once explained to my boys that we were going to wake them up in the middle of the night and have them change into the clothes hanging on their ends of their beds, brush their teeth, put on shoes and get in the car.  We would then eat breakfast on the way to the airport.  It was going to be dark, and they were going to be tired but could sleep on the plane.  And, by the afternoon, we would be eating lunch at our resort on the Caribbean.  My kids woke up when they heard us getting ready and came to ask if it was time to get dressed and were extra well-behaved throughout the whole journey (which even included an Ebola virus scare), and we did have a lovely lunch in Mexico.

    Proper preparation is a key to a successful vacation with kids.  Check out our other Travel Tips, including Travel Tips:  Airports and Airplanes.

  • Japan Part V: Four Nights in Tokyo With Kids! (where we stayed and what we did)

    Japan Part V: Four Nights in Tokyo With Kids! (where we stayed and what we did)

    From Kyoto, we took the bullet train to Tokyo. My son, of course slept the whole time and has no recollection of the experience – such is traveling with a 4 year old! The cost of the trip was 17,600 Yen per person, or approximately $160 USD. My husband, who spent a summer in Switzerland in college, said the Japanese train system was much like Switzerland – clean as a whistle and punctual. The train ride was smooth, fast, and an hassle free way to travel from Kyoto to Tokyo for the last leg of our journey – 4 nights in Tokyo.

    Where we stayed:

    Hyatt Regency Tokyo (Shinjuku)

    Our 4 nights in Tokyo were spent at the Hyatt Regency Tokyo in Shinjuku. We booked our room using points and requested a slightly larger room than the standard offering. Imagine our surprise when we entered our room and found the nicest hotel room we have stayed in to date! We also received a lovely welcome treat from the hotel and were delighted to learn that our room came with access to the Regency Club, so we had free breakfast and drinks and hors d’oevres before dinner. As if that wasn’t enough, on clear mornings, we could see Mount Fuji from the club room!

    our remarkably spacious bathroom
    the desk/office area
    I loved the partition that separated the sitting area from the bedroom
    the welcome amenity we found awaiting us upon arrival; they refilled the fruit daily
    the pre-dinner spread in the Club one night during our stay

    The hotel also has other amenities we did not get a chance to take advantage of, namely, the pool and the spa. From these photos, however, I sure wish we had snuck in a trip to the pool. The following three photos are from the hotel’s website:

    The absolutely stunning lobby. Not visible in this photo, but there were small storefronts on the outer edges of the lobby, so you could purchase macarons on your way up to your room in the afternoon (and we did this on more than one occasion)!

    What we did:

    Our hotel was conveniently located in Shinjuku. Although many of the travel sites we read said it was a business area, it ended up being centrally located to quite a bit of shopping and entertainment.

    photo credit

    Kabukicho:

    Located just a few blocks away from the hotel was Kabukicho, the entertainment and red light district. Unfortunately for us, it was the first place we wandered to upon arrival in Tokyo and did not leave a great impression on us. We had a difficult time finding restaurants to dine in and were turned away from a number of restaurants when they spotted our son. We also tried to go to the massive arcade they had, but were told no kids after 6pm. In hindsight, I suppose we should have done better research and perhaps it was a blessing in disguise that they did not let us in because who knows what we would have found behind the doors, but it was a jarring experience and unpleasant introduction to Tokyo.

    Nevertheless, we ended up returning to Kabukicho a few times during our time in Tokyo and it was there that my son discovered video games!

    Shinjuku Skyscraper District

    Our hotel was located right in the Shinjuku Skyscraper District, and so we got to see first-hand the sheer number of people who flood into Tokyo every day to work. Our first morning there, I ventured out in search of a laundromat so that our clothes could finally get a good wash. While I was out, my husband and my son went to a park, so that my son could stretch his legs and get some energy out, and they also went to the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building and took the elevator up to the observatory (admission free). The weather was not great, so reports on the view were less than stellar.

    It took me a while to figure out the machines, but I enjoyed the solitude

     

    Speaking of playgrounds, we absolutely loved the playgrounds in Tokyo. While there weren’t a lot of children in Tokyo, we did find at least two playgrounds with fantastic climbing equipment. My son, a  natural born climber, loved hiking up the equipment and it was a great opportunity for him to release some energy. Tokyo actually is very similar to San Francisco in that you see very little children in the city. One afternoon, while at the playground, we did see a crowd of school children who had obviously just gotten out of school; but we never saw kids in any of the shopping districts or areas that we were visiting – not even the parks where the cherry blossoms were. We definitely got the sense that the children typically lived outside the city center or played a more “back seat” type role in their parents lives than they do in the US, so that is definitely something to consider when planning a trip to Japan.

    Shinjiku Gyoen Park

    Cherry blossom season begins in January in southern Japan in Okinawa and moves north, peaking in March/April in Kyoto and Tokyo. When we planned our trip, we hoped to hit the cherry blossom trees in peak bloom, but living in DC, we knew there was no guarantee, so we crossed our fingers and hoped for the best.

    Happily for us, we hit the season in full throttle and basically chased the blooms from Kyoto to Tokyo. By the time we reached Tokyo, the cherry trees were in full bloom, and we were fortunate that our hotel was located within walking distance to the Shinjiku Green Park (admission 200 Yen, or ~$2). We absolutely loved walking around the gardens and visited at least twice during our stay.

    Hakuhinkan Toy Shop in Ginza

    We did quite a bit of people watching and window shopping in Tokyo, and Ginza did not disappoint. For a good portion of the afternoon, the main street is closed to traffic, so pedestrians can walk freely and the roads can accommodate the heavy foot traffic. One of our stops was the Hakuhinkan Toy Park in Ginza – a massive multi story toy shop. While there, we discovered and indoor motorized race track, which my son got a kick out of. The store was also fully stocked in Frozen dresses, and I was sad that I didn’t have the foresight to purchase a suitcase full of dresses to bring home! Based on the level of Frozen-insanity going on in the US at the time, I could have financed a good portion of our trip that way!

    Ueno Zoo

    After dragging our son through quite a number of department stores, we decided to spend a morning at the Ueno Zoo so he could stretch his legs and enjoy being a kid! The zoo was a perfectly fine way to spend a few hours, but it was nothing to write home about.

    Ueno Park

    A short walking distance from the zoo is Ueno Park, which we were delighted to discover was in full swing due to the annual cherry blossom festival. There are a number of museums and temples in the area, but we were happy to experience the park, which was hopping in activity. The pathways were lined with people and there was a street food festival going on as well. We spent a few hours just walking around and sampling the different food offerings, while also taking in some of the sights. Curiously, we were one of the very few tourists there – we saw some tourists, but others were there in large groups with pets, blankets, friends… It was clear that the Japanese enjoy spending time outdoors enjoying nature!

    My son had a blast the day we went to Ueno for the Zoo and Park. Getting a break from the constant walking, train riding, and window shopping was good for him, and it gave him an opportunity to just be a kid. He even took part in some of the food sampling and the Park also had carnival like rides for little kids. All in all, it was probably the most kid-friendly and kid-centric activity we did while in Tokyo!

    Asakusa’s Kappabashi

    a typical display of food offerings in a restaurant window

    One of the more random things we stumbled across in Tokyo was Kappabashi, Tokyo’s fake food mecca. Nearly every restaurant in Japan displays fake food, or sampuru, to provide a quick visual of what the restaurant has to offer. Until we stumbled across Kappabashi, we frequently wondered where the fake food came from and how one goes about acquiring the fake food displays for a restaurant.

    Our questions were quickly answered in Kappabashi, where we encountered blocks and blocks of shops containing every single imaginable kitchen/dining item you could imagine.

    fake burgers so good you can *almost* eat them
    we had to take a picture with the stock pot so large, you could cook a four year old in it!

     

    If you happen to find yourself in the area, definitely wander through and take a look. We ended up coming home with some items which we still use today!

    Continue to Part VI – What We Ate

  • Ohio Wine Country With Kids

    Ohio Wine Country With Kids

    Are wineries really a place to take kids?  We’ve found that with limited exceptions, a winery can provide fun for all ages, and we are lucky to have the Ohio’s Grand River Valley wine region about 45 minutes away.  We think it is a hidden gem of the area as we find many of our friends and neighbors do not know much about it or have never actually been and definitely recommend a trip to Ohio wine country with kids.

    I grew up in the Cleveland area but never visited the wineries in this region until I was in my 30s.  Our seven month son joined us on our first trip there.  Since then, Ohio wine country has become a favorite family day trip.  We usually go at least once a year to celebrate a special occasion. While it is just a short drive, our favorite wineries have amazing and relaxed settings that make us feel like we have made an excursion.  Sipping wine is just the icing on the cake of a great afternoon.

    Ohio’s Napa

    While the wine produced in Ohio may not be as famous as those made in Napa, Grand River Valley wineries are much more family-friendly than those in Napa, and our kids love winery trips.  Many Ohio wineries produce their own grape juice, and my kids absolutely love drinking red grape juice (a special treat) in wine glasses.  Also, most wineries in Ohio double as restaurants or permit guests to bring their own picnic.  Some wineries have enough green space to relax on a picnic blanket and fly a kite, and the nearby beach in the State Park is an added bonus.

    When we planned a trip to San Francisco and Yosemite a few years ago with our two and four year old boys, we tacked on two nights in Napa. While Napa is definitely not a typical family vacation location, my husband and I were not going to pass up the opportunity to go to Napa just because our kids were with us, and we figured that the wineries would be as much fun for them as Ohio wineries.  While we definitely all enjoyed ourselves, our experience visiting California wineries with kids was not what we expected after our regular trips to Ohio’s wine country.

    We thought our kids would enjoy drinking grape juice and eating good meals at wineries in Napa.  However, we learned that Napa wineries do not make grape juice because their grapes are too expensive to “waste” on juice.  Only one winery we visited offered my kids juice, and it was served in Capri Sun pouches rather than fancy glasses.  Because it is expensive for wineries in Napa to obtain food permits, they stick to serving wine and the occasional free snack.  While my boys enjoyed frolicking in vineyards, touring wineries and watching some grape stomping, we did not find any spot in Napa where kids could relax for an afternoon or fly a kite.

    Lodge at Geneva-on-the-Lake – An Ohio Wine Country Resort

    The Lodge at Geneva-on-the-Lake is a family-friendly hotel complex on Lake Erie that can turn a trip to the Grand River Valley wineries into a weekend getaway.  I enjoyed a few nights there.  The Lodge has expanded in recent years to include indoor and outdoor pools as well as two-bedroom cottages completed in 2016.  The Lodge also offers family rooms with bunk beds and a number of fun activities, including bike rental, zip line tours and snow shoe and ski rental.

    The Lodge at Geneva on the Lake

    Logistics

    Other than designating a driver, there is virtually no preparation needed for planning a trip to the Grand River Valley WIne Region.  If you are planning to picnic at the South River Vineyard or adding on a stop at the beach, make sure to bring a blanket, snacks, juice, a ball and a kite.

    Wineries

    There are a number of wineries in the Grand River Valley Wine Region area. While we occasionally try a new one, we generally stick to our favorites, including:

    • Ferrante Winery and Ristorante: This is our favorite lunch spot in the area.
      • Food:  The food is particularly enjoyable, and the restaurant offers indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the beautiful vineyard.  We particularly enjoy the gnocchi brue, which I order with chicken instead of filet mignon and with lighter sauce.  The kids like the pepperoni pizza.
      • Wine and Juice We order the sweet and dry tasting trays to share.  Ferrante’s makes their own white and red grape juice.  If we are headed to South River Vineyard after lunch, we pick up a bottle for the kids on our way out.  Servers will ask you if you would like to add a bottle to your lunch tab, but it’s about half the price if you pick it up at the souvenir shop yourself.
      • Tours:  Ferrante’s offers free winery tours on weekend afternoons from Memorial Day through Labor Day with posted hours.  My boys really enjoy these tours.  We were with a large group of visiting family the last time we had lunch at Ferrante’s, and it was our nine year old who asked if we could take the tour.
      • Location:  Other than the large blue factory building next door that seems completely out of place in the vineyard scene, the setting is truly picturesque.  On weekends in the summer, there is usually live music outside.
      • Notes:  Note that the restaurant is closed on Monday and Tuesday. Ferrante’s offers a lunch menu Wednesday through Saturday, but the dinner menu is used for lunch on Sunday.

    • South River Vineyard is one of our family’s favorites wineries.
      • Food:  The only food sold is a cheese plate, but guests are permitted to bring small picnics.
      • Wine/Juice:  Wine is sold in flights and by the bottle, and the bartender will cork an unfinished bottle so that you can take it home with you.  They do not sell juice, but guests are permitted to bring non-alcoholic beverages.
      • Setting:  We call it the “church winery” because the tasting room is housed in a Victorian Methodist Church originally built in 1892 that was moved from Shalersville, Ohio and reconstructed here in 2000. Outside, there are beautiful terraces and a pavilion with Adirondack chairs and picnic tables.  On colder days, there is an outdoor fireplace.  There is a large grassy area next to the pavilion that is perfect for the kids to play ball or fly a kite.

     

    • Laurello Vineyards is a small, boutique winery that opened in 2002. While it is not set in a vineyard like many of the other wineries, there is a large outdoor patio with live music in the evenings on summer weekends. The flatbread pizzas baked in a wood oven are amazing.
    My friends, Sandy and Barb, at Laurello Vineyards
    • Harpersfield Vineyards is a farm winery housed in a charming French estate. Harpersfield serves soup, sandwiches, flatbreads, cheese plates and desserts. Outdoor seating includes a patio and pavilion. The indoor fireplace is a big draw.

    • Debonne Vineyards is the largest estate winery in Ohio with over 175 acres of vines. It is also the most commercial winery in the area.Weddings occur here most weekends in the summer, and we have seen a few ceremonies. Appetizers, sandwiches and pizza are available inside all year. During the summer months, the outdoor Grille at Debonne is open for outdoor dining.  Debonne was the first Ohio winery to open a micro-brewery and is open daily 12 pm to 6 pm with longer hours on some days and on a seasonal basis.

     

    Visiting wine country in Ohio is one of our family’s favorite summer activities.  Now, we need to check it out during the off season!

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  • Japan Part IV: Three Days / Two Nights in Kyoto With Kids!

    Japan Part IV: Three Days / Two Nights in Kyoto With Kids!

    We spent three days and two nights in Kyoto and looking back at the pictures now, it truly is one of the most beautiful places that I have ever been. Although the weather did not cooperate while we were there (it rained pretty much the entire time), we still hit many of the major sights and were extremely thankful that so many of the ancient temples and sites are still standing. Indeed, Kyoto was on the initial list of atomic bomb targets, but was scrapped from the list thanks to Henry Stimson, then US Secretary of War.

    Where we stayed:

    Westin Miyako Kyoto – For accommodations, we had a Japanese style room at the Westin Miyako Hotel, which is located about 1/2 mile from the major Kyoto business district. Since the Westin is on a hill, on the rare occasion when it wasn’t raining, we would walk downhill to the main business district, but take a taxi ride back up the hill.

    With only six Japanese style rooms on the property, we were thrilled that we were able to book one on points. The six rooms were set apart from the main property, near the gardens, and after checking in, we went in search of our room:

    the living room when we arrived
    the Japanese style bath with cedar tub and separate shower
    A close up of the cedar tub, which my son enjoyed bathing in!

    Turn down service as the Westin Kyoto is a lot more involved than just fluffing some pillows and making the bed. While we were out exploring, housekeeping came and made up our beds for the night. They tucked the small table and chairs away and replaced them with heavy futon and bedding. Having grown up sleeping on a true tatami mattress, I felt right at home. My son seemed to enjoy the novelty of it and slept very soundly both nights we were there.

    In addition to the Japanese style room, we also loved the breakfast buffet at the hotel. We ventured over to the main dining room our first morning there and quickly decided that it would be the perfect place to start our day. At the time, breakfast was ~$30USD per adult for the buffet, but we were happy to sample the different cuisine from the comfort of our hotel room.

    rice with assorted seasonings, seaweed soup, various fish/futomaki/pickles, tea

    Although my husband and I were thrilled to sample the traditional Japanese foods for breakfast, they also had a number of regular breakfast items. It was no trouble at all getting my son fed and, in fact, we saw numerous groups of families there with children ranging from infants to teen.

    The other nice thing about the Westin is that they have their own private trails behind the hotel. We took advantage of the trails the morning of our departure, to stretch our legs.

    Give a four year old a walking stick and some trails and he’s gold!

    As I mentioned earlier, the Westin is on the top of a hill, so at some point on the trails, you come across clearing where you can look down and see the commercial Kyoto district. The hotel had this handy guide to point things out.

    his own private torii gate adventure

    What we did:

    We didn’t let the rain deter us as we knew there was tons to see in Kyoto. After filling up on breakfast, we took a taxi ride from the hotel to our starting destination. Luckily, the taxis outside the Westin were familiar with the tourist spots, so we had no problems communicating where we wanted to be taken.

    Our first stop was the Arashiyama District, where we intended to catch at least two major sights: the bamboo grove and the Tenryuji Temple.

    Arashiyama Bamboo Grove – My husband said we were going to a bamboo forest and I wasn’t quite sure why. That is, until I saw the magnitude of the forest!

    These photos do not accurately portray just how surreal walking in a bamboo forest is. Luckily, the “trail” is paved so even though it was wet, we had no issues walking the path. It would easily be something a stroller could accommodate. There were still a fair amount of tourists, though, even in the abysmal weather, so I imagine this is a place that can become overwhelmingly crowded very quickly.

    Tenryuji Temple – Our walk in the bamboo forest conveniently let us out at the Tenryuji Temple. The temple is a UNESCO world heritage site and there were plenty of tourists, even in the bad weather.

    The cherry trees were just starting to bloom in Kyoto.
    I love Japanese architecture, especially doors!
    My four year old was a real champ, despite the pouring rain. It helped that we let him carry his own umbrella.

     

    side view of the temple (not a great shot as it was overcast and rainy)

    Much of the area surrounding the temple is pebble/gravel, so it could be difficult to maneuver a stroller. If necessary, I would prefer using a baby carrier to a stroller for that reason alone.

    Fushimi Inari Shrine – No trip to Kyoto is complete with a trip to the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine. We visited on our third day in Kyoto and the weather was decidedly nicer than the previous day.

    The first thing we encountered when we arrived on the main temple grounds was this water/bamboo/cup fountain. It wasn’t a hand washing station and it wasn’t a drinking fountain (but I saw quite a few people sip from the cup and then back wash it back into the basin).

    The instructive placard wasn’t much help in deciphering whether the spitting was appropriate or not. For the record, we did not spit.

    There were numerous stations around the temple where you could write a message and hang your message/wish/prayer.

     

    One of many shrine buildings, where we saw monks come and worship during our visit.

    The Fushimi Imari Shrine is probably most visited, however, for the famous torii gates. Behind the temples, there are two trails of parallel torii gates.

    the gates are donated by individuals and companies and names are inscribed accordingly
    This is what the start of the trails look like. Pick one (left or right) and start walking!

     

    As you get further up in the trails, the crowds get sparse and the density of the gates also diminishes. The path also starts off paved, but eventually you find yourself winding your way through actual trails.

    I would not recommend attempting to maneuver a stroller on these paths, and children who do not stay close should be watched closely, especially in the early part where there are dense crowds. After turning back, we went down to the commercial area near the shrine, where there were numerous tourist shops and street food vendors.

    What we ate:

    Our first night in Kyoto was a colossal fail. We walked down to the business district from the hotel and had a difficult time discerning restaurants from residences. We ended up dining at what could only be described as a Japanese truck stop before giving up and heading back to the hotel. The next day, my husband ventured out for a run through the business district while my son and I attempted to dry out our shoes. He located two restaurants, confirmed that they would both be open for dinner and later that night, we headed over to one of them.

    As you can see, the menus we were presented with weren’t exactly helpful. Luckily, I can read the numbers on the bottom of the menu, telling us how much the meals cost. We blindly ordered our food and just trusted that it would be fine – and it was. I don’t recall the name of the restaurant, but I can tell you were enjoyed it tremendously. The hosts were also fantastic – serving my young son his own bowl of noodles and tamago (the baked egg dish you see on the bottom right of the photo with the noodles).

    In addition to dining at the one restaurant in downtown Kyoto, we also dined at a restaurant in the Arashiyama district, after touring the bamboo forest and temple. We blindly chose a restaurant in the tourist area after a colossal fail on our part – based on a glowing recommendation in a tour book, we had walked over three miles in the rain and wind to find a restaurant nestled somewhere in the woods. We found the restaurant – but learned upon arrival that it was reservations only.

    The awful gloomy weather we dragged our young son through in search of the “reservations only” restaurant that we did not have reservations for. Oops.

    Luckily, the food at our randomly chosen restaurant was delicious and they even had instructions for eating the special tofu skin soup. I was thrilled, by that point, to get out of the rain and eat something warm, but the food was delicious. We typically stay away from restaurants in tourist locations when traveling, but Japan might be the exception.

    The Kyoto train station is massive and has dozens of eateries. On the day of our departure, we wanted to ensure plenty of time as we were taking a scheduled bullet train and didn’t want to miss it, but of course, that left us with extra time at the train station and right around lunch. Luckily, we didn’t have much difficulty figuring out what we wanted to eat – eel bowls! These were delicious! I’ll also say that we did not have a lot of trouble figuring out what to order or what the different restaurants served, as plastic food samples are a big thing and each storefront had 3D samples of what they were offering.

    plastic food offering a visual of what’s on the menu
    half eel / half egg-eel omelet
    I am a purist and stuck with the eel.

    How we got around:

    We arrived in Kyoto via train and from the main train station, we took the Westin Kyoto shuttle to the hotel and back. Finding the shuttle stop at the train station proved a bit difficult. I believe when we booked our rooms, the Westin website only said there was “shuttle service,” so upon arrival, we simply wandered to where most of the shuttles appeared to be picking up the guests. The Westin pick up location, however, was at a separate entrance than the one we had been waiting at — which we discovered only after waiting for 45+ minutes. The website has since been amended to state: The resort shuttle can be found at the Hachijo Exit and the shuttle runs every 20 minutes.

    We also traveled around Kyoto via taxi and had no trouble communicating with the taxi driver. I suppose they get enough tourists to know the words for the main destinations and we simply handed him money based on what was on the meter.

    We did continue to experience difficulty in purchasing train tickets, however. We never got proficient at purchasing train tickets during our time in Japan.

    We quickly learned to always use the customer service window where someone who spoke some English could help us. This included purchasing our Tokaido Shinkansen (the bullet train) tickets, which took us on to our last destination — Tokyo!

    The bullet train approaching!

    Continue to Part V – Four Nights in Tokyo (where we stayed and what we did)

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  • Japan Part III: The First 24 Hours in Osaka With Kids!

    Japan Part III: The First 24 Hours in Osaka With Kids!

    first glimpse of Japan from the air

    The First 24 Hours – Osaka

    I’ll be the first to admit that our time in Osaka started out rough. After finally clearing customs and making our way into a taxi, we were met with blank stares by the taxi driver who didn’t seem to understand “Westin” or “Westin hotel.” It wasn’t until I pulled out our hotel confirmation that he seemed to understand where we wanted to go. Although it seems silly in the age of smartphones and wifi-everywhere, I still print out hard copies of our entire travel itinerary when we travel and keep them in a binder for this very reason – to pull out when there’s a glitch or other issue with a reservation. Although 99% of the time I never need the hard copy, on the occasions where I have needed, it has been very handy. I’ve even had reservation representatives thank me for having hard copies with confirmations numbers that  they can take with them when trying to sort out an issue.

    We had no set agenda in Osaka, nor did we have much of a plan. We knew that it was the second largest city in Japan and that it was more of the business/financial district than a tourist destination like Kyoto or Japan, so after unpacking and freshening up, we wandered outside on foot to explore. Admittedly, we elected not to get into a taxi because we had no set plan and also because we feared more language woes.

    Luckily, we stumbled across two things that really made our 24 hour stay in Osaka:

    The Tempozan Ferris Wheel:

    We spotted the large orange/red ferris wheel in the distance and, although I have a pathological fear of heights that precludes me from ferris wheels (including enclosed ones!), my husband and son enjoyed the ride.

    After the Ferris Wheel, we walked around the surrounding area, the Tempozan Harbor Village, where there were lots of shops and small businesses. We stopped for ice cream and then just continued to walk around the area. One interesting thing that we came across was the Umeda Sky building with walkable bridge. Although we did not elect to take the walk across the sky bridge, it is definitely something older children would enjoy.

    We did not go up the Umeda Sky building and walk across the bridge, but we did enjoy the replica building in the lobby!
    Plenty of fun things for kids, including massive ice cream sundaes, which of course we stopped for!

    After a few hours of wandering around on foot, both my son and I were tired and wanted to go back to the hotel to rest. Although my husband wanted to go out for dinner, my son and I elected to just go back to the hotel for the night. I don’t recall what we did for dinner that night, but I do remember that the thought of venturing out again and trying to find a place to eat was just too overwhelming.

    Osaka Central Fish Market & Endo Sushi:

    The next morning, I woke up early due jet lag and poked around online looking for things to do. We weren’t scheduled to depart for Kyoto by train until later that day, so we were looking for something interesting. I found that there was a Central fish market in Osaka that was a smaller scale version of the famous Tsukiji market in Tokyo.

    As it was already 4:45 am, I knew that we needed to get a move on things if we wanted to see the good stuff! I quickly got my husband on board, woke our son up, and we went to the front desk to request a cab.  Upon entering the cab, we  encountered the same issues we had experienced the day before – the taxi driver did not know where we wanted to go.  With the help of hotel reception (who thankfully spoke English!), we were soon on our way.

    Pulling up to the fish market was somewhat terrifying as it was still dark and there was no obvious sign of where we were. It looked like the cab driver was dropping us off in a commercial area with no apparent signs of life.

    I had no idea where we were going, but headed towards the one big building off in the distance. Upon entering the building, we quickly realized we had entered the right place.  We found ourselves in a huge room filled with all kinds of sealife in various stages – from living to flash frozen and ready for shipping!

    fisherman working on fileting their morning tuna catch
    chunks of flash frozen tuna, ready for sale/transport
    live king crab that we were invited to pet!
    sorting out the morning’s catch
    each of those white bins contains ice and some kind of seafood
    filleting a giant fish on the floor

    We were the only tourists there and  stuck out like sore thumbs. The fishermen were incredibly friendly and, although not a one spoke English, they were happy to see us and encouraged us to take photos.   At one stall, the fisherman even invited my son to pet the living King Crab that was trying to climb its way out of the ice box!

    If you find yourself in Osaka, this is a must see experience! Not only was it much more manageable than the Tsukiji fish market sounds, it was much more personal experience. The only difficulty will be trying to find out where you’re heading and, as this blog post from June 2016 suggests, the signage hasn’t improved since we were there in March of 2014!

    After finishing up at the fish market, we were starving as we had been up for a few hours and hadn’t eaten a thing. One of the websites that had recommended the Central Fish Market suggested a small place called Endo Sushi.  Although sushi sounded awful for breakfast (and still does), we were in Japan and I figured, hey, if they were selling it, it must be good!

    It was somewhat difficult to locate Endo Sushi (the website says after “entering the area of the Osaka Central Fish Market, please go towards the left side of the building”), but after wandering around the block a few times, we finally came across it. We were quickly seated and presented with a menu.

    It was still dark when we finally found Endo Sushi!

    Although the proprietor did not speak English and we got some curious looks, we had no trouble ordering one each of #1 and #2 – never under estimate the power of pointing your index finger!

    Our food came quickly and was outstanding; I also loved the novelty of the bowl of soy sauce, with the brush that we used to gently brush soy sauce onto our nigiri.

    help yourself soy sauce and fresh ginger

    Now, you may be wondering what kind of 4 year old eats sushi for breakfast? My answer?  I don’t know.  Endo Sushi is located in a strip mall, and I ducked into a small corner store just a few stores down that happened to have a variety of sweet and savory rolls (the bread kind, not the sushi kind).  I picked up a few rolls and brought them into Endo Sushi, where my son happily sat and munched while we enjoyed our sushi.  Nobody seemed to mind that he was there, and they even offered him some miso soup, which he was happy to devour along with his roll.

    By the time we finished eating, it was time to head back to the hotel, gather our things, and go to the train station. It was a relatively easy walk to the train station, where we purchased our tickets to Kyoto.  Figuring out what tickets we needed was a bit difficult given that the signs were all in Japanese.  The only things we could decipher were the names of the stops (Kyoto) and the prices in yen, but we had no idea whether there were different rates for children versus adults.  Luckily, each Japanese train station has two things that proved immensely helpful as we were traveling through the country: 1) a staffed window with a knowledgeable and friendly transit employee, ready to help, and 2) extraordinarily friendly Japanese passengers who were willing to stop and help us purchase our tickets when we were confused.  We took advantage of their friendliness and willingness to help whenever we could and that really made getting around Japan less stressful than it would have been without their assistance.

    Although our first 24 hours in Japan started out rough and was overwhelming, I wouldn’t hesitate to go back to Osaka.  It is a perfect starting point for a trip across the Island, and I highly recommend the Osaka Central Fish Market as the perfect first day in Japan adventure – since the Fish Market opens so early and you’ll likely be jet lagged, it’s a great thing to do when you’re awake, but most of the rest of the world is still sleeping. Moreover, the fishermen seemed to genuinely enjoy that we had our son with us and went out of their way to show up things – like the friendly king crab!

    Continue to Part IV – Three Days / Two Nights in Kyoto

  • Japan Part II: Packing and Getting to Japan with Kids (via Munich / Seoul)

    Japan Part II: Packing and Getting to Japan with Kids (via Munich / Seoul)

    Packing:

    After 4 years of cross country flights during college and 5 years of long distance relationship traveling, my husband and I long ago stopped checking luggage when traveling. For our trip to Japan, we meticulously calculated what we would need for two adults and one not-quite five year old and ended up with this:

    18,000 miles, 11 days, 2 adults, 1 child, 0 checked bags. Pack light or stay home.

    In addition to those three items of luggage, my husband and my son each had a personal item, a backpack. The grey bag pictured in front was my personal item for the flights and we also had a separate camera bag, which we carried along with us.

    Although I was initially skeptical about not checking luggage when traveling with children, I have not only come around to it, but have concluded that it is the only way to travel when possible. Not only do you save yourself the extra hassle of juggling small, fussy children and the baggage claim wait time, but you also free up as much hand real estate as possible. When you only have two adults traveling, extra hands are key! When my oldest was a toddler, we frequently traveled only with enough diapers and wipes to get us to our destination and then purchased all disposable items and supplies on the other end. We co-slept and, when traveling for more than a few days, favored renting vacation homes through airbnb/homeaway/vrbo so that we would have easy access to laundry. But, I digress.

    When planning our trip to Japan, we took into consideration the weather and the most versatile clothing we could pack. Luckily, since it was Spring, we knew that light layers and one medium weight coat/rain jacket would be sufficient. We also knew that good walking shoes were a definite must. For clothing, we each packed 3-4 outfits/changes of clothes and planned to do laundry as we traveled. We are both fans of what we affectionately call “high tech underwear” – a combination of polyester/nylon/spandex that is lightweight, packs small, and most importantly, dries quickly so clothing can be washed and dried by ourselves in the hotel.  Examples include Rei Co-op Boxer Briefs and ExOfficio Women Briefs. To do our laundry in the hotel, we bring along single packs of Woolite detergent and we also travel with a travel clothesline so we can hang dry clothing in the hotel shower.  We also each own actual clothing in a similar quick dry material and typically bring one “dressier” outfit for fine dining.  If you know me, you also know that I do not travel anywhere without a pair of flip flops, so those are also always tucked into our luggage somewhere.

    With our clothes and personal items tucked into our luggage, our walking shoes on our feet, and our lightweight jackets on our backs, we set off for the first leg of our flight to Munich.

    Munich & Seoul:

    We called a taxi for our flight to Munich out of Dulles airport. Although a car seat is not legally required in for-hire car rides in Virginia, this was the first time I ever had my son ride in a taxi without a car seat since we would not be using one during our time in Japan. To make myself feel slightly better about the situation, my husband and I rode with my son in between us in the backseat and we made sure to buckle him up securely. Luckily, we arrived at the airport without incident and, having already checked in online and with no bags to check, made our way to the Lufthansa business class lounge, where we filled up with snacks and champagne (for the adults) before boarding the first leg of our flight to Munich. This was my son’s first time flying business class, but being only four, he did not seem to notice that this was a much different “staging” area that any of our previous flights. He did enjoy the free wifi and abundant snackage, however.

    a thumbs up for mom from the business class Lufthansa lounge at Dulles Airport

    Our flight to Munich was uneventful and upon clearing customs, we found our rental car company booth. Unlike in many airports in the US where you have to board a shuttle to get to your rental car lot, we were able to just walk across a courtyard from the main terminal to the rental car terminal, where we located Avis and checked out our car – a lovely Audi, equipped with our pre-reserved booster seat. As I waited with my son, however, we spotted numerous cigarette vending machines sprinkled throughout the airport – a quick and easy reminder that we weren’t in Kansas anymore!

    the cigarette vending machines were a major source of conversation
    all strapped in and ready to go!

     

    From the airport, we quickly checked into our hotel, before heading to downtown Munich to explore. We found a convenient parking spot at a parking garage in the Munich City Center and then just wandered around for a few hours, taking in the sights, before stopping for a light snack at the Augistiner Beer Hall of – you guessed it, sausage and beer.

    my son was completely non-plussed about being in a foreign country. he loves adventures and is always game for them and was just glad to be along for the ride

    After our snack, we continued walking and overall, it was a nice, enjoyable way to kill a few hours and stretch our legs after a long flight. We came across a number of relatively deserted courtyards where my son could run around and, although there were tons of tourists and others walking around, at no time did I worry about losing my son in the crowd. The service at the Augistiner was perfectly fine, the weather was lovely, and we decided to head back to the hotel just as it was getting dark. On the way back, we decided to take the Autobahn and loved that the speed limit adjusted down as the weather started sprinkling and then went back up when the showers stopped.

    Once back at the hotel, we decided to have dinner at the hotel restaurant, which offered up traditional German fare that was incredibly satisfying, as was the continental breakfast at the hotel the next morning, which we filled up on before heading to the airport for the next leg of our trip to Seoul. Overall, we enjoyed our time in Munich. It was a great spot to stretch our legs and break up the long trip to Japan. It is a great place to travel with children – clean, generally English speaking, easy to get around. Although the streets were crowded, using a stroller to maneuver around would not be a problem. If we had more time in Munich (and if my son was older), I would have liked to have visited Dachau, which is only 45 minutes or so from Munich. Given our short 24 hour layover and the fact that my son was not quite 5 at the time, we decided to save the visit for a future trip.

    The flight from Munich to Seoul was approximately 11 hours but, being in business class, we enjoyed the comfort of having enough space to stretch out, recline to sleep, and, of course, the ice cream sundaes for dessert. My son was such a rockstar traveler by that age that I basically let him watch whatever age appropriate movie he wanted to watch and took a nap myself – dozing in and out of consciousness throughout the duration of the flight.

    After deplaning in Seoul, we had a 3.5 hour layover to stretch our legs. Happily, we found an indoor play gym, which we took advantage of. I wish more airports had this type of space for families traveling with young children! I don’t believe I have ever seen a play structure in an airport, except for the Birmingham Airport, of all places. Hopefully, as airports continue to expand and modernize, play structures or kid zones will become a standard offering, along with breastfeeding rooms and family restrooms.

    Prior to having children, I always picked flights with the shortest layovers possible, in an effort to minimize time lost in transit. Although debatable, I am now partial to longer layovers with small children – I once chose a four hour layover in Seattle over a 2 hour layover during a solo trip with my then-18 month old from DC to Alaska! I prefer the long layover because it gives us time to stretch our legs, eat, and in the case of my 18 month old in Seattle, to take a quick 90 minute nap in his stroller. Our 3.5 hour layover in Seoul was the perfect opportunity to stretch and grab a quick snack before boarding the last leg of our trip – a 2 hour flight to Osaka.

    Continue to Part II: The First 24 Hours in Japan

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  • Japan Part I: Why Japan? & the Logistics of Preparing for a Round-The-World  With Kids!

    Japan Part I: Why Japan? & the Logistics of Preparing for a Round-The-World With Kids!

    Why Japan?

    In the fall of 2013, my husband and I decided to take our then four year old on a big trip before he started kindergarten in the fall of 2014. We decided on Japan as our destination based on 3 simple factors: we both love traveling to Asia (and our son had never been); we were planning on traveling in the spring of 2014, so it was possible we would be in Japan during prime cherry blossoms season; our miles and points made it possible to have an amazing vacation at very little expense to us.

    Preparing for a Round-The-World trip

    Flights

    Early on, my husband hatched the idea of taking a Round-The-World (R-T-W) trip. A R-T-W ticket allows travelers to travel around the world at a relatively low price. Airlines actually offer this product with set itineraries that you can customize based on your interests. My husband wanted to create our own RTW ticket, however, so he looked at a number of options based on available flights and our miles and priced out the following itinerary:

    Outgoing: Dulles –> Munich –> Seoul –> Osaka

    Returning: Tokyo –> Newark –> National Airport

    We were incredibly fortunate to have sufficient miles to travel in business class (360,000 total) and for only $242.10 out of pocket! Without miles, the airline tickets would have cost $19,299.60 in economy or $45,298.60 in business class.  In other words, there is no way we could have afforded this trip without some serious examining of the award structure and creative use of airline miles. Luckily, we are aggressive planners when it comes to maximizing our credit card miles and points balances, so we had sufficient Chase Ultimate Rewards points to transfer the necessary miles to our United account at a 1:1 ratio.

    The nature of our itinerary required us to book through the reservations hotline, because we wanted to fit in a 24-hour stop over in Munich and also wanted an open jaw (where we fly into one destination and return from another), flying into Osaka, but departing Japan via Tokyo. In 2016, United changed the rules regarding award flights and no longer allows stopovers in different award zones.  If we were booking our flight today, we would not be able to have an overnight in Europe, but presumably, would be able to schedule one in Seoul.

    Accommodations:

    Having secured our flights, we next had to decide how many days we wanted to spend in various locations. We knew that we had only one night in Munich, but there were approximately eight days we needed to divide up in Japan. We decided to spend one night in Osaka, which we read is more of a business district than a true tourist destination, two nights in Kyoto, and the balance of our nights in Tokyo.

    As a Starwood Preferred Guest gold member, I always check Starwood hotels first, as we earn extra points on our spend, which we use to offset the cost of future stays.  For our one night in Munich, I decided to book near the airport so that we would have plenty of time to have breakfast and then head over to the airport.  I called the main Starwood reservations hotline and was informed that for 8,500 Starpoints or 149.68 EURO ($175.44 USD), I could have a king bed, high floor room at the Sheraton Munich Airport.  Although the hotel no longer appears to be operating as a Sheraton, this review of the Sheraton Munich Hotel is an accurate and thorough description of the property at the time of our stay in March 2014.

    For our one night in Osaka, I called the Osaka Westin, where I booked a double room for 16,200 Yen.  Unfortunately, I  failed to specify (or they did not ask?) that there would be two adults staying in the room and when checking in, we were informed there would be a slight charge for the additional adult (no extra charge for the under-5 year old).  At that point, I was so tired from traveling and ready to drop my bags that I did not bother to investigate this charge any further and just paid the ~$30 USD so that we could complete the check in process and get settled into our room.

    From Osaka, we were planning on spending two nights in Kyoto, so I called the Westin Miyako Kyoto and was told that a standard room was 12,000 SPG points per night, but we could upgrade to a Japanese style room for an additional 4,000 SPG points per night. I happily booked the upgraded room at 16,000 SPG points per night – this option was not available via the spg.com website, so if the option you are interested in online is not there, definitely call.  As of the writing on this post, one night in a Japanese style room costs 22,572 Yen ($205.55 USD).

    Finally, I looked into options in Tokyo, where we would be spending four nights, but was unable to locate any options for more than single accommodations.  My husband ended up transferring Chase ultimate rewards points into his Hyatt account and booking us a suite at the Hyatt Regency in Tokyo to finish up our trip.

    Getting Around:

    We had every intention of relying on the amazing train and subway system in Japan to get around, and we had no plans for getting around in Munich, originally, other than taking a cab into the main shopping/dining area from our hotel. Just three days prior to departure, I started looking further into getting around in Munich and realized that it was ~61 USD each way to take a cab from the hotel to downtown area.  A quick peek at the Avis website later, I secured a car rental for $75 USD for the 24 hours we were planning on spending in Munich, plus an additional $11 for a booster seat for my son.  I was initially very concerned, reading the reviews online, that the car company would try to charge us for every dent or scratch, including prior existing ones. For protection, I booked the rental car on our Chase Sapphire Preferred card, which offers primary collision coverage and also took 1,001 photos of the car upon arrival. Luckily, the check out and check in process was seamless, and we had no problems (including the rental booster), so I was thrilled that we had the flexibility of having our own vehicle, while saving some money in the process.

    Language & Currency:

    I had never been to Munich before, but my husband reassured me we would not have any trouble communicating during our 24 hour layover. This proved correct – everyone from the rental car company, the hotel concierge, the restaurant host/esses ALL spoke English.

    We clearly failed to prepare for the language barrier in Japan, however, as we experienced numerous “Lost in Translation” moments during our time in Japan. We encountered extreme difficulty in getting around Japan – from our cab driver at the Osaka airport who did not understand what we meant by “Westin Hotel” to having to rely on kind strangers to help us purchase tickets at the rail – we definitely did not adequately prepare. I would not recommend traveling blind with children, like we did, as having a child with you when you have no idea what you’re doing or where you are going in a foreign country is troubling, to say the least. If you do not have friends/family to help you get around in Japan, I strongly encourage you to engage a local tour guide. Tours by Locals is highly recommended by friends who have used this in other parts of Asia, but I have no first-hand experience.

    Regarding currency, I never worry about obtaining local currency in advance of a foreign trip (although that may change after our Zimbabwe experience!) and had no problems getting cash out of the ATM at the airport or anywhere else around town. Our Chase Sapphire Preferred card also offers no foreign transaction fee, as does our Starwood Preferred Guest American Card.  I charge everything that I can on those cards when we travel, reserving my cash for only places where credit card is not accepted or cash just makes sense.

    Continue to Part II – Packing and Getting to Japan

  • Iceland With Kids: What I Wish I Knew

    Iceland With Kids: What I Wish I Knew

    Our first few hours in Iceland were rough.  Although we read a number of guide books and blogs and asked friends who had traveled with children for advice, we did not find a great resource for families traveling the Ring Road.  Lonely Planet’s Iceland guidebook states, “It may be a good idea to limit yourselves to one part of the island to avoid boredom induced tantrums and frequent bouts of carsickness. Reykjavik is the most child-friendly place simply because it has the greatest variety of attractions and facilities.”  We did not have issues with boredom induced tantrums or motion sickness, and Reykjavik was one of the least exciting destinations for them.  While I believe traveling the Ring Road with children can be an amazing experience, we could have been better prepared for our trip before heading to Iceland with kids.

    We arrived at about 6 a.m. after a six-hour flight. While we had prepared ourselves and the kids for the time change by going to bed and waking up very early in the preceding week and all went to sleep rather quickly on the plane, none of us slept more than six hours. We stepped out of the plane without putting on the fleeces, gloves and hats packed in our backpacks into a cold, damp and windy morning to board our shuttle for the airport.  Herding our luggage to the rental car office was further complicated by our daughter unexpectedly getting sick, twice.

    After completing paperwork and installing the car seats, we plugged our first destination into the GPS to find that it was not identified because our GPS did not have an Icelandic keyboard. GPS coordinates, which we had not recorded, were often necessary.  Also, the helpful Geysir employee who processed our rental warned us that speed limits were strictly enforced by speed camera and police, but when we set out in our car, we found that it was pre-set for miles.

    After heading out of the airport, we decided to pick up something to eat, but the only available option was a convenience store near the airport, which was probably the grocery that was the most expensive with worst selection that we visited in Iceland. It would have been better to eat the protein bars we brought with us, taken a nap in the car and held off shopping until Bonus, Netto or Kronan opened.

    When we visited AAA in preparation for this trip, we found that AAA did not have a map of Iceland or really any helpful tourist information. This was a first for us – we usually rely on AAA to provide backup maps for any road trip.  We hoped to pick up a good map of Iceland at the first visitor’s center we found, but we did not get one until that first evening.  So, we spent that first day in a bit of a sleepy daze and mostly unsure of where exactly we were.

    Early arrival in Iceland after a night of not so great sleep is practically inevitable, and our daughter’s fluke (but luckily short-lived) illness was purely unlucky, but you can substantially ease first day stress by being prepared with your itinerary and all the directions you might need to navigate. If you are using a GPS, try to preset the Icelandic alphabet and kilometers and make sure you have GPS coordinates (which are included here whenever available) pre-programmed and, if possible, a map of the country with you when you arrive.

    It took us a few hours to get organized, but we ended up having a rather astonishing day. From the moment we left the airport, we were in awe of the views we saw along the side of the road.  The purple flowers (Alaskan lupine) growing everywhere were an instant favorite. We made an unscheduled stop at Reykjavik’s first Costco, which had opened only a few weeks earlier, took the Lava Tunnel tour and visited Kerid Crater before stopping for the night.  Our kids were all asleep when we reached our guest house and slept while I made dinner.  When our oldest woke up, he thought he had slept a full night when it was time for dinner.  Despite the late naps and 24 hours of daylight, none of us had trouble sleeping that night (or any other night of our trip, for that matter).

    Want to find out more about Iceland with kids?  Check out our listing of all Iceland posts.

  • Sample Iceland Itineraries With Kids

    Sample Iceland Itineraries With Kids

    After we booked our 10-night trip to Iceland with kids, we were not exactly sure how to divide our time.  I read one guide-book we consulted suggested not to travel the Ring Road with kids because of boredom and carsickness.  Our kids are not prone to either (and certainly loved our Ring Road trip), but I wish we were able to locate suggested Iceland itineraries for families with kids before booking hotels.  Luckily, our guestimated pace worked out great.  My key advice to anyone planning a trip to Iceland for at least three nights is to try to fit in a trip to Jökulsárlón Lake.  I’ve never met an Iceland traveler who wasn’t wowed by this amazing glacial lake.

    Our family spent 10 nights in Iceland and traveled the Ring Road and then ended our trip with 4 nights in Reykjavik that allowed us to take several day trips.  Our itinerary was an extended version of the 9 day trip.  For families planning a trip to Iceland with kids, here are some suggested itineraries to consider:

    Iceland Itinerary 3 Days

    Day 1 – Keflavik Airport and Reykjavik

    • Pre-book at Blue Lagoon in morning to coordinate with your arrival
    • Hallgrímskirkja
    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Harpa
    • Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – hot dog stand

    Day 2 – Golden Circle Day (via rental car or pre-booked day tour)

    • Thingvellir National Park
    • Geysir and Strokkur
    • Gullfoss
    • Kerid Crater

    Day 3 – Reykjavik to Airport

    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Visit Harbor Area
    • Return to Keflavik Airport

    Iceland Itinerary 4 Days

    Day 1 – Keflavik Airport and Reykjavik

    • Pre-book at Blue Lagoon to coordinate with your arrival
    • Hallgrímskirkja
    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Harpa
    • Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – hot dog stand

    Day 3 – Golden Circle Tour (via rental car or pre-booked day tour) Stay in Vik

    • Thingvellir National Park
    • Geysir and Strokkur
    • Gullfoss
    • Kerid Crater
    • Seljalandfoss Waterfall

    Day 3 – Vik to Reykjavik

    • Reynisfjara Beach
    • Dyrhólaey
    • Sólheimajökull Glacier
    • Skogafoss Waterfall
    • Eyjafjallajökull Volcano

    Day 4 – Reykjavik to Airport

    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Visit Harbor Area
    • Return to Keflavik Airport

    Iceland Itinerary 5 Days

    Day 1 – Travel from Keflavik Airport to Vík, stay in Vík

    • Seljalandfoss Waterfall
    • Eyjafjallajökull Volcano
    • Skogafoss Waterfall
    • Sólheimajökull Glacier
    • Dyrhólaey

    Day 2 – Travel to Jökulsárlón Lake and back to Vík (many tourists do not travel East of Vík, but you will really be missing out if you do not see Vatnajökull Glacier and Jökulsárlón Lake, which were absolute highlights of our trip).

    • Reynisfjara Beach
    • Vík
    • Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
    • Vatnajökull Glacier
    • Jökulsárlón Lake
    • Return to Vík

    Day 3 – Travel from Vík to Golden Circle to Reykjavik

    • Thingvellir National Park
    • Geysir and Strokkur
    • Gullfoss Waterfall
    • Kerið Crater

    Day 4 – Reykjavik

    • Hallgrímskirkja
    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Sun Voyager sculpture
    • Harpa
    • Baejarins Beztu Pylsur – hot dog stand

    Day 5

    • Pre-book at Blue Lagoon in morning to coordinate with your departure
    • Return to Keflavik Airport

    Iceland Itinerary 7 Days

    Expand on the 5 Day Trip by extending stays in Reykjavik and Vík adding on whale watching, lava tunnel tour, a day-trip to Snaefellsnes Peninsula, visit to Reykjanes Peninsula and Bridge Between Two Continents in Reykjanes, Laki crater or a show at Harpa. 

    Iceland Itinerary 9 Days 

    Day 1 – Travel from Keflavik Airport to Vík, stay in Vík

    • Seljalandfoss Waterfall
    • Eyjafjallajökull Volcano
    • Skogafoss Waterfall
    • Sólheimajökull Glacier
    • Dyrhólaey

    Day 2 – Travel from Vík to Höfn

    • Reynisfjara Beach
    • Vík
    • Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon
    • Vatnajökull Glacier
    • Jökulsárlón Lake
    • Höfn

    Day 3 – Travel to Egilsstadir or Eskifjörður

    • Picnic lunch along ocean
    • Spar Crystal Mine (Eskifjörður)

    Day 3 – Travel to Husavík

    • Eskifjörður pool
    • Dettifoss Waterfall

    Day 4 – Husavík Whale Watching and Myvatn

    • Whale watching tour
    • Myvatn Lake area
    • Stay in Myvatn (if you can find accommodation) or in Akureyri (stopping at Godafoss en route)
    • Goðafoss Waterfall

    Day 5 – Akureyri

    • Goðafoss Waterfall
    • Explore Akureyri – shops and Akureyrarkirkja
    • Akureyri Thermal Pool
    • Back up day for whale watching in Dalvík or Husavík in case of inclement weather on Day 4 or Myvatn Lake area if you did not have sufficient time on Day 4

    Day 6 – Travel to Reykjavik

    • Travel to Reykjavik
    • Laudardalslaug Thermal Pool

    Day 7 – Golden Circle

    • Thingvellir National Park
    • Geysir and Strokkur
    • Gullfoss
    • Kerið

    Day 8 – Reykjavik

    • Hallgrímskirkja
    • Shopping in Reykjavik
    • Harpa
    • Baejarins Beztu Pylsur
    • Sun Voyager sculpture

    Day 9 – Airport

    • Blue Lagoon (pre-booking required)
    • Bridge Between Two Continents – Reykjanes

    Iceland Itinerary for a Longer Trip 

    Expand on the 9 Day Trip by extending stays in Reykjavik and Vík adding on whale watching, lava tunnel tour, a day-trip to Snaefellsnes Peninsula, etc. 

    Find Out More about Visiting Iceland With Kids

    Continue to Iceland Part X – What I Wish I Knew or check out our listing of all Iceland with kids posts.