Tag: local culture

  • Tropical North Queensland With Kids!

    Tropical North Queensland With Kids!

    Guest Blogger: Cris, her husband “J,” and their four kids live in Europe, but have spent the last year traveling the world and have visited over 21 countries. They can be found on Instagram.

    “Hey honey, we’re going to Australia for five weeks!” – J

    When my husband first told me we were going to Australia for five weeks in October, I began researching the best places to visit with our four children, ages 8, 7 (twins), and 6. J had appointments in Noosa, Sydney, and Melbourne on specific dates, but the rest of the time would be dedicated family holiday time. As I started researching Noosa, I realized quickly that it would be a sin not to visit Tropical North Queensland.

    The Itinerary:

    During our five weeks in Australia, we spent one week exploring Tropical North Queensland. Our itinerary was as follows:

    Day 1 – Fly into Cairns and hire rental car

    Day 2 – Tour of Green Island National Park

    Day 3 – Four hour drive, overnight in Townsville

    Day 4-7 – Airlie Beach, including tour of Whitehaven Island

    Day 7 – Depart via Proserpine Airport (also known as Whitesunday Coast Airport)

    What We Did:

    Tropical North Queensland is home to several world heritage sites, including the Great Barrier Reef, the largest coral reef in the world. Queensland itself is a land of white sandy beaches, boasting year round summer temperatures and incredible wildlife. Home to crocodiles, sharks, deadly snakes, kangaroos, cockatoos, and sweet wallabies, my biggest concern was whether I would be able to keep my four children safe! We all know children have selective hearing when it comes to “dos and don’ts” and my worries haunted me even as we landed in Cairns.

    The Cairns Esplanade has been a focal point for locals and visitors in Cairns city since the region was founded in the late 1800s.

    Upon landing in Cairns, I immediately fell in love with the warm breeze, tropical vegetation, and the sweet sound of song birds. After checking into our hotel in Cairns, we took a walk around town in an effort to stay awake until an acceptable time for dinner, thus helping us adjust quickly to jet lag. Beaches are off-limits in Cairns and there are crocodile warnings everywhere, but the town compensates with the most family friendly promenade we’ve ever visited. The boardwalk is elevated above the beach and a perfect place for children to run along and play. There is plenty of free entertainment and, within walking distance from the town center, we found a skate park, BBQ areas, and the Cairns public swimming pool, which is a fantastic amenity for locals and tourists alike.

    The crocodile warnings!
    Walking along the beach in Cairns.

    During our visit, we loved stopping for snacks at Muddy’s café, a nice beach front coffee shop with great food and an incredible playground, complete with a splash area for children. J and I sat outside and enjoyed coffee, while watching our children play on the gigantic hamster wheel!

    My husband and I joked that we need one of these for our yard at home!

    Our stay in Cairns was sadly shortened by a flight mix-up in Bali, so we only had one full day to explore. To maximize our time, we decided to take a boat tour to Green Island National Park.

    Green Island National Park

    Green Island National Park consists of powdery white beaches and tropical trees, thus making it the perfect castaway vacation destination. After being assured by no less than five different people that there was no danger of crocodiles, we set off to explore the deserted white sand beaches. We enjoyed a packed picnic lunch on the beach and also enjoyed a glass bottom boat excursion to the coral reef that my children absolutely loved. They went wild looking at corals, different species of fish, giant starfish, and even a turtle – all without getting wet!

    Glass bottom boat ride.

    Back in Cairns that evening, we did what we always do when traveling abroad: sample the local cuisine! The excitement was sky high when we ordered kangaroo and crocodile skewers – so yummy we had to order more!

    Early the next morning, we headed off to our next destination, Townsville. To get there, we drove for four hours along the infamous “Bruce Highway,” which was lined with mango and avocado trees and banana plantations. Along the way, we pulled into one of the many farm stalls to sample some fresh melon. It was delicious, but also a little expensive! Our decision to spend the night in Townsville was entirely motivated by our desire to give the children a break from being stuck in the car. We spent the night at the Mercure Townsville, after receiving an offer from Emirates and Rocketmiles that would earn me 3,000 miles for a one night stay.

    After our overnight in Townsville, we headed off to our next destination, Airlie Beach. I had tried to get a cabin at the BIG4 Resort, which has water slides and great reviews, but because late September is a popular holiday time for Australians, the resort was fully booked and we ended up staying at the Airlie Beach Eco Cabins nearby, which was an ideal location for my family. Because we had our own transportation, it did not matter that we were located in the middle of an Australian forest/bush as we could get anywhere we needed. The cabins were well-equipped, and included washing machines, WiFi, and small torches that we used to see wild animals at night. The only thing missing was a dishwasher, but we remedied that by purchasing paper cups and dishes when we got tired of washing dishes by hand.

    Our first night at the cabin, as I was unpacking our bags, the owner knocked on our door and asked if the children wanted to see the wallabies! We all wanted to see the wallabies, so we grabbed the torches and dashed out into the gardens. It was pitch dark and we had to be silent so as not to scare the animals away. The owner instructed us to direct our lights towards the bushes, where the wallabies were hidden. The light caused the wallabies to freeze momentarily, so we were able to see them up close before they unfroze and disappeared into the woods.

    Airlie Beach night outing.
    Airlie Beach Wallabies!

    The Airlie Beach Lagoon is located in the town center. The Lagoon is an immense public swimming pool surrounded by sand and patches of grass that are perfect for laying down and sunbathing. What started as a splash break for the kids quickly turned into a whole day of lounging and swimming. The Lagoon has a shallow end, a shaded children’s area, and public toilets and water fountains at every corner. Our children could not get enough of it and J and I took the opportunity to relax and read a book under a tree!

    Airlie Beach Lagoon

    During our stay in Airlie Beach, one activity we signed up for was a guided trip to Whitehaven Beach. If you have older children in their teens, an ideal trip would be an overnight sailing trip to Whitehaven Beach. Our children were too young for an overnight stay, so we booked a day trip on a tour boat instead. The tour company collected us in the morning from the BIG4 resort and drove us to the port. Our tour boat then took us through the Whitesunday group of islands, a collection of continental islands located off the central coast of Queensland. The islands are in varying states of habitation, with Daydream Island still undergoing construction following a hurricane and Hamilton Island being a VIP island where you can stay in a villa that comes equipped with a four person golf cart that you can use to explore the island.

    Whitehaven Beach

    Our tour stopped on Whitesunday Island, the main island around which the Whitesunday group of islands are centered. There is no resort on the island, but Whitehaven Beach will make you blink twice in disbelief. The white sand stretches as far as the eye can see and words cannot describe the way the sand twists into the turquoise sea. While I was hypnotized by the magic of the beach, my children ran along the infinite stretch of white beach. We learned that because the sand is so full of silica, it makes a squeaking noise as you walk!

    Our children playing on Whitehaven Beach.

     

    Picnic lunch on Whitehaven Beach.

     

    The tour boat provided a picnic lunch, which we enjoyed on the beach. There was a bit of friction between the children and the free-roaming iguanas, which resulted in my children choosing to have lunch on the table/bench instead of on the actual beach! We also encountered a small group of starving backpackers who had spent the night sleeping in tents on the island and our guide was kind enough to share food with them. No one is really prepared for how deserted Whitesunday Island can be with no fresh water, no coffee shops – nothing. I guess sleeping under the starry sky on this unspoiled piece of paradise requires sacrifice!

    After lunch, our tour boat took us snorkeling along the Great Barrier Reef. All snorkeling gear was provided, including flotation tubes. Unfortunately, my children found the water to be too cold and were nervous about snorkeling in open sea. Luckily, the guide was prepared and took the children on a smaller boat to look for stingray. Although I also found the water to be cold, it’s not every day that you get to snorkel along the Great Barrier Reef, so I held my breath and braved the frigid waters.

    Looking for stingray.

    Whenever I think of North Tropical Queensland, a heart will always appear next to its name. It truly was an ideal family destination. The towns we stayed in had great facilities for children (including toddlers!), and the tour companies are able to accommodate all ages. Because it is summer all year round, the beaches are simply stunning and listed as the best in the world. What makes North Tropical Queensland truly special, though, is how man and nature coexist.

    Travel Tips:

    • The island trips get booked up very quickly, so book in advance, especially if you are traveling during Australian school holidays.
    • We purchased a mobile SIM card for one of our phones and for $50 AUD, we had 3 GB of internet and free local calls for two months. This allowed us to use our phone’s map app instead of paying for an expensive GPS rental.
    • Although there are many islands to visit in North Tropical Queensland and options range from expensive villas and luxury resorts to camping, we chose to stay on the mainland and visit the islands as part of day tours. This was not only a logistical lifesaver, but it was also lighter on the budget.
    • Sailing is an ideal way to explore the Whitesunday islands.

    We hoped you enjoyed the beautiful white sand beaches as much as we did!

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  • New Zealand: Cruising With Kids!

    New Zealand: Cruising With Kids!

    Guest Blogger: Crisel, her husband, and her two year old daughter are Australian expats, currently living in the Soloman Islands, a sovereign country consisting of six major islands and over 900 smaller islands in Oceania. They are planning a world tour beginning in 2019, but in the meantime, are traveling to as many of the Soloman Islands and countries in the Pacific as they can. They can be found on Instagram.

    photo credit

    Our family decided to look into a cruise after a recent international flight that involved a screaming two-year-old. Our goals were simple: less plane, less car and less time stuck in a hotel. My husband and I love to travel as much as we can and explore different places, but as our daughter has moved past the infant stage into the terrible twos, it has become more difficult. The idea of boarding a cruise ship and having everything within reach – pool, restaurants, cafés, entertainment area, kids’ area, and spa – was intriguing. And on top of that, we would wake up with a new place to explore every morning!

    The cruise we booked was the Golden Princess Cruise Ship to New Zealand. Since we were traveling during the school year, the theme of the cruise was targeted to adults, but that didn’t deter us and, as an added bonus, our daughter got so much attention from the cruise staff because there were so few children on board. Our main goal was to have a relaxing holiday, which we did.

    Waving goodbye to Sydney Harbor.

    Our cruise to New Zealand began in Sydney with two days of straight sailing to Fiordland National Park. Once there, we spent a full day cruising along Milfound Sound and Doubtful Sound, where we experienced the most magnificent views of our lives. From the ship, we saw endless mountains and breathtaking waterfalls, including Mount Tutoko, the highest peak in Fiordland National Park. Mount Tutoko was surrounded by glaciers, which were stunning.

    Mount Tutoko
    Fiordland National Park

    After a day spent cruising along Fiordland National Park, we arrived at our first stop: Dunedin. Getting off the ship for the first time was very exciting and there was a shuttle bus that took us to the city center where we discovered shops, cafes, and local markets. The short bus ride to town was my daughter’s favorite activity and our first stop was at a local café to get our daily dose of caffeine.

    After getting our fill of caffeine, we took a short walk to the Town Hall. My daughter took advantage of a small park in front of a church to chase and feed pigeons. We also went to the Cadbury Chocolate Factory while stopping, along the way, to play at a little maze garden in front of Dunedin’s historic railway station.

    Playing in the maze outside Dunedin Railway Station.

    From Dunedin, we re-boarded the ship and stopped at five other places: Akaroa, Wellington, Auckland, Tauranga and Bay of Islands. Each morning, we would wake up and have a new place to explore. At every stop, we would visit the parks, markets, cafes, beaches, and generally look for places where our daughter could run around freely. We did make an effort to avoid touristy areas and shopping centers as our time was limited.

    Feeding and chasing pigeons in Auckland.

    Our favorite stop was Paihia, Bay of Islands. The beach was stunning, and there was an awesome kids’ park nearby where we spent quite a bit of time. The cruise ship did offer a shuttle bus ride from the ship to the center of Paihia, but we elected to walk to town instead, as that would give my daughter time to run around and also so that we could spend more time at the park and the beach. When my daughter got tired, I carried her on my back, and we continued to explore. While in Paihia, we enjoyed fish and chips at a local restaurant and ice cream for dessert. We also visited a local art market that had a lot of unique art from local artisans, including wood crafts, underwater creatures made of metal, and clothing made from organic cotton.

    Paihia Beach
    Carrying my daughter on my back after she got tired of walking!

    Our second favorite place was Tauranga. Unfortunately, my daughter did not feel well that day, so my husband and I took turns exploring Tauranga while the other stayed on the ship with my daughter. Tauranga was my personal favorite stop because the place is beautiful – white beach, boutique shops, funky cafes, and friendly locals. I also had the opportunity to climb Mount Maunganui, which, at 232 meters above sea level, took me about an hour to accomplish. There were many families with kids climbing the mountain at the same time and I would have loved to have experienced it with my daughter as the view from the top was superb.

    The cruise line offered day excursions and tours that we could pay extra to experience, but we decided even before we booked the cruise that we would not do any extra excursions because of our two-year-old. Although it would have been fun to experience some of the offered excursions, such as the glow worm caves and The Lord of the Rings film set, it would have been too much for our daughter. Instead, we had a great time exploring each stop at a leisurely pace with our daughter and, after a day of exploring, we simply went back on board the cruise ship to relax either by the pool, or by watching a movie in the room. The best part about the cruise was that we did not rush around and plan every single minute of our time, like we usually do, we just went with the flow.

    My daughter enjoyed the onboard activities.

    What we liked about the cruise:

    • Everything is on board. Pretty much everything we needed and wanted was on the ship. Although we booked an ocean view room, we were upgraded to a room with a balcony that gave us a little bit more room, especially with a toddler. We spent most of our time outside and away from our room, but it was nice to have the extra space.
    • Food was amazing. There were so many food options onboard. There was buffet, a la cart, or fine dining. We loved fine dining every night and tried so many different and delicious dishes. We chose anytime dining option that allowed us to have dinner whenever our daughter was ready. The staff was very accommodating and provided both kids’ menus and kids’ activity packs at meals.
    • Waking up in a different place every morning. Yes! You sleep in one city and wake up to a different one. This was great because we did not need to pack and unpack our luggage.
    • Everyone is so friendly. From housekeeping staff to waitresses to entertainers to guests. Everyone was so friendly.

    What we did not like about the cruise:

    • Entertainment shows took place every night after dinner, but because my daughter had to go to bed, we were unable to all attend. My husband was kind enough to let me watch entertainment shows every night while he put our daughter to sleep, but it would have been nice to enjoy as a family. The shows included stand-up comedy, concerts, and international talent shows. All shows were appropriate for children, so I would have taken my daughter if they had offered the shows during the day.
    • The Kids’ Club was for kids ages three and up. Because my daughter was not three, we could not use the Kids’ Club, and babysitting was also not available, so we had no date nights.
    • We gained a lot of weight on the cruise!
    • Our cruise had to end after 2 weeks!

    Additional Thoughts:

    • My daughter still naps once a day, so we usually walked her around in the pram or I carried her on my back until she fell asleep. Her naptimes provided my husband and me with an opportunity to recharge and unwind, either at a café or by continuing to explore quietly until she woke up.
    • Because we were traveling with a toddler, a full day (7-8 hours) of exploring the city was enough for us. We would definitely return to the Bay of Islands and Tauranga again for a family holiday if given the opportunity, but the cruise was a great opportunity to visit and get a sense of the location.
    • My daughter loved the cruise life! She enjoyed the elevators, the buffet breakfasts, and the opportunity to break up our day by visiting and exploring new places, playgrounds, parks, shops and cafes. My daughter also loved the entertainment on the ship, in particular dancing to the music that played in the Piazza.
    • I would absolutely recommend a cruise for families with toddlers as it is an easy way to have a relaxing holiday while exploring many different places. I suggest checking to make sure that the cruise you are interested in caters to families with children and would also check to make sure that you can take advantage of the Kids’ Club and the minimum age (most cruise lines offer Kids’ Club for ages 3+).
    Happy Cruising!

     

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  • Kids’ Blog: Cuba Time, Fun Time

    Kids’ Blog: Cuba Time, Fun Time

    Guest Blogger: Our kid blogger, TJ, is a cool, high energy, fun loving nine year old actor and artist! TJ’s adventures and exploits can be found on Instagram and Facebook.

    When my mom told me that we were going to Cuba I was excited, but I didn’t want to be too excited because I have never been.  I was also nervous because I was not always listening in Spanish class, and I was afraid that I would not be able to talk to many people or make friends, but I did! Cuba definitely beat my expectations!  It was different than usual – from experiencing a taxi that is shaped like a coconut to even playing in the streets, which I don’t get to do in Miami.  We had some plans, but even the things we didn’t plan were super fun, and we met a lot of nice people.

    Cuba is colorful and full of great art.

    So, you basically have a summary of Cuba, but here are the details.

    A cool view of the neighborhood.

    Day One:

    On day one, we got to the AirBnB, which was really cool because we had never actually stayed in an AirBnB before. The neighborhood was colorful, bold and unique.  The buildings were old, but they were fresh in color and they looked like they told a story.

    TJ, Samuel and David playing Simon Says.

    The owner of the place was really nice because she had someone meet us to give us a full tour of the apartment.  She also introduced me to my new friend, Samuel.  I was so relieved because he spoke English.  We got to play lots of games like red light, green light.  We also played hide and seek extreme with Samuel’s friends.  Samuel had to translate what I was saying to his friends who eventually became my friends. It was fun because we could play without getting in trouble for playing in the streets because it is normal in the neighborhood.

    When we were roaming around Central Havana, we unexpectedly saw a bouncy house, trampoline and more. The bouncy house was fun because I got to play and get some energy out – I was really hyper about Cuba and just had some mango juice that I think had a lot of sugar in it.

    The funniest thing is that my mom did not know how to use the money so the lady at the bouncy house thought she was crazy.  And that’s we learned a new thing – there’s two types of money in Cuba.  I recommend before you go on the trip, you learn more about the two types of money in Cuba.

    El Biky was delicious.

    The end of day one was delicious because we ate at a restaurant called El Biky, and we got the yummiest deserts. The line was long but worth the wait.

    Day Two:

    We loved El Biky so much that we went there for breakfast on day two.  We went to the beach at Santa Maria, and I made a village with coconuts, water bottles, sand and all that jazz.  Then, I climbed this big slanted palm tree, and it was a challenge.  I was scared to go all the way up, but my mom inspired me so I could do it.

    When we got back, we took a bike taxi to old Havana. Being on it was kind of like a tour of old Havana because the bike was not that fast, and I could see a lot of things on the ride. After roaming in Old Havana for a little while, we took this crazy coco taxi, which was cool because it has no sides and I like that it is the shape of a helmet.

    The Coco Taxi was fun, awesome, great and breathtaking.

    Day Three:

    On day three, we went to the mountains.  It was great because I got to jump of a water fall! Our driver said it was low because there was a drought, but it didn’t make a difference to me because I still had fun.  At first, the water was really cold, but I got used to it.  Did I mention that there were a lot of fish in there?  When I was in the water it was kind of like school (wink wink).  After playing on the waterfall for a little bit, I got to ride a beautiful horse.

    Taking in the mountain view.
    My horse ride.

    Day Four:

    Day four was the hardest day because we did not want to leave Cuba.  We moped around about having to leave.  But, I played with Samuel, and we found this cool stick that we used as a baseball bat and a microphone – we are thinking about going on tour!  The good thing about having an imagination is that we can do fun things without electronics and not get bored of it.

    This is not everything we did, but most of the best parts.  You should definitely go to Cuba no matter what time of year it is.

  • Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Barcelona is Spain’s “second city” and a mesmerizing blend of Gothic and Modernism styles.  In contrast with the Gothic Quarter, many of Barcelona’s monuments were brilliantly designed by master architect, Antoni Gaudi, who is best known for Catalan Modernism.  As the capital of Catalonia, this vibrant and beautiful city has unique language, history and culture and was an amazing city to explore for a few days with our infant son.

    We traveled to Barcelona as a side trip from London, where we had been visiting family.  My husband and I chose Barcelona because neither of us had been to Spain or visited the Mediterranean.  Barcelona was particularly alluring because of its distinctive architecture, particularly Sagrada Familia. Because there are always a plethora of flight deals to major European cities from London, we were able to book a flight and hotel package through lastminute.com.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in Barcelona with kids.

    Accommodations in Barcelona

    We stayed for three nights at the Hotel Villa Emilia, a boutique hotel with modern touches.  Hotel Villa Emilia is located just outside the city center in Barcelona’s most famous residential neighborhood, the Eixample.  The Eixample is a late 19th century development that means “the expansion” in Catalan.  We loved the quieter, residential atmosphere of this upscale area and didn’t mind that we needed to jump on the nearby Metro for a stop or two to get to the main tourist areas.

    Eating in Barcelona

    The thing to remember about traveling to Barcelona with kids is that everyone eats dinner late.  Dinner before 8 pm is challenging, at best.  Most restaurants do not start serving dinner before 9 pm, and 10 pm is definitely more of the typical dinner time.  Before dinner, many people enjoy tapas – small savory plates served with drinks – at bars.   Our newborn rarely slept for more than a few hours at a time, so even though he did not have a “bedtime”, my husband and I were definitely sleep-deprived and ate at Chinese restaurants two nights of our trip simply because that was all we could find open early.

    While evening dining may have challenges if you are traveling with kids, we had several amazing fixed price lunches that were delicious and extremely reasonable. Our favorite was 4Gats, a historic restaurant meaning “four cats” that Picasso frequented around 1900.  My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous fixed-price lunch that included a bottle of wine.  Our son enjoyed a “cat nap” in his stroller while we ate.

    Transportation in Barcelona

    We mostly traveled by the Metro, which is one of Europe’s best.  It was fast and efficient but not built to be stroller accessible.  We quickly became experts at handling the stroller with stairs and escalators – so much so that I have admittedly taken strollers on escalators in the US when there was not an obvious alternative – despite all those signs indicating not to do so.

    We saw bikes for rent all over the city, which have now become popular in the US as well, but at the time, it was pretty novel, and something we had never seen before.

    Language

    The official languages of Catalonia are both Spanish and Catalan.  It is surprising to learn that Catalan is the first language of most Barcelonans, and schools are required to conduct classes in Catalan.  However, all adults speak Spanish as well.  We have some limited Spanish skills but never had language barrier issues.  Everyone in the tourist industry spoke fluent English, and English menus were available in restaurants.

    Things to See in Barcelona

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (Holy Family Church) is Antoni Gaudi’s still unfinished masterpiece of Catalan Modernism architecture and the icon of Barcelona.  Sagrada Familia was never intended to serve as the seat of a bishop but definitely constructed in the scope and proportion typical of cathedrals and has been rated as the world’s most famous church.

    Francisco Paula de Villar was the initial architect when construction began in 1883.  Antoni Gaudi took over as architect in 1891 and worked on Sagrada Familia until his death in 1926.  Gaudi intended for Sagrada Familia to have a major impact on Barcelona’s skyline, and his masterpiece is one of the tallest religious buildings in the world with 18 spires planned to represent the 12 Apostles, Mary, the four Evangelists and Jesus (the tallest).

    Sagrada Familia is dedicated to the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary and Jesus.  There are three façades – the Nativity Façade that depicts the birth of Jesus, and the Passion Façade that shows the crucifixion of Jesus have been completed.  The Glory Façade, which will show the path to God, has not yet been completed.

    The Nativity Façade was the only part of Sagrada Familia completed during Gaudi’s life.  The Passion Façade was built according to Gaudi’s design, but does seem to vary in style from the original façade.  The only part of the church that was completed while Gaudi was alive is the Nativity Façade.  So, while Gaudi gets all the glory for this masterpiece, most of the church was actually designed by others.

    Nativity Façade
    Nativity Façade Detail
    Passion Façade

    While we did not purchase tickets in advance, it is highly recommended now that you buy your tickets online with a specific entry time to avoid the long lines.  We entered through the Nativity Façade, which will be a side entrance after the Glory Façade is completed.  Construction was very much ongoing on both the interior and exterior when we visited.  It is very common for cathedrals and monuments to require restoration work, and scaffolding has obscured the perfect picture of many cathedrals I’ve visited over the years.  However, it is quite exciting to witness the initial construction of a historic monument.  The only other time I had a similar experience was when I visited the Crazy Horse Memorial in 2002 and got to witness a rare blast first-hand.  I am always fascinated to see the progress of both monuments.

    The interior was very much under construction during our visit

    The colors of the stained glass are so brilliant and interesting.

    Modern technology and the funds from entrance fees have drastically helped construction.  The main nave was completed a few years after our visit, and the Pope held a consecration Mass in 2010.  The goal is to complete construction by 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death, but estimates show that it is likely to take a few years longer than that.

    I have visited literally dozens of cathedrals around Europe, but Sagrada Familia is truly distinctive.  It is really surreal to visit this vast and awe-inspiring church.  After the York Minster, which will forever hold a special place in my heart, it is probably my second favorite church in the world and definitely one not to miss.  After our tour, we relaxed at a nearby park  to enjoy the view of the completed spires away from the crowds.

    La Rambla

    La Rambla is a colorful, tree-lined pedestrian mall between Plaça de Catalunya and Port Vell, is one of the most popular tourist destinations.  There are lots of shops and baskers lining the road, which was once under water.

    La Boqueria Market (Mercat de Sant Josep) is Barcelona’s food market located just off La Rambla.  It is also known as Mercat de Sant Joseph and is visually stunning.  since 1200, main entry is beautiful.  The market is colorful and visually stunning.  Because the stands near the front pay the highest rent, they also have the highest prices.

    The Columbus Monument is the 200 foot column honoring Christopher Columbus at the end of La Rambla.  This monument recognizes Columbus’ journey to Barcelona to report to Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand V after returning from North America in 1493.  The style of this pedestal, column and statue reminded me of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, which we also visited on this European vacation.

    Columbus Statue on the Top of the Monument
    View of the Columbus Monument from the Barcelona Cathedral

    Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic)

    The Gothic Quarter is the center of the old city with narrow, cobblestone streets.  These pedestrian-only streets are the perfect location for an afternoon stroll.  Picasso lived in this neighborhood around the turn of the 20th century.

    Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia/Barcelona Cathedral

    The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed between 1298 and 1450.  However, the front façade was ornately recreated around the turn of the 20th century to add an interesting blend of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture.  This Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona who was martyred here in the fourth century.  We enjoyed the view from the Cathedral’s roof, which is widely known for gargoyles.

    Church of Santa Maria del Mar is a 14th century Catalan Gothic church whose name means meaning “Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea”.

    Beaches

    We were not prepared with beach gear on this trip but did stop by at a beach briefly so that all three of us could dip our toes in the Mediterranean Sea.  Beaches are so close to the city center and well-loved by the locals.  Hop off the Metro, and you feel like you have arrived at a resort!

    Tibidabo

    We often go to the highest point of a city we are visiting to get the bird’s-eye view of an area.  So, we took a ride on the Tibidabo Funicular to the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  The view of the Tibidabo Amusement Park and the city was definitely worth the trip.  The Tibidabo Amusement Park opened in 1889, but many of the rides are originals with unparalleled scenery.  It was our son’s first amusement park and something definitely to add to your list if you are traveling with kids.

    View of Tibidabo Amusement Park and Barcelona from the summit of Mount Tibidabo
    Amusement park in the sky

     

    The Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor (Expiatory Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus) stands on the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  It was completed in 1961 in the neo-Gothic style with a statue of Jesus on top of the central spire.

    Why visit Barcelona With Kids?

    I was more nervous about this trip than any others because it was our first time abroad as parents.  Nonetheless, our infant son was a great travel companion during the four spectacular days we spent in Barcelona.  My son was exclusively nursed at the time, and we were pleasantly surprised that nursing in public was much more common-place and accepted than is was in the US at the time.  So many people on the streets stopped us to inquire about our son, often utilizing limited English skills or hand gestures to communicate with us.  There may have been occasional stroller challenges on the cobblestone streets, but nothing too challenging for us to overcome for families with young ones.

    Next time we go, we definitely won’t miss the Picasso Museum.  I have no idea why we didn’t put this on our list and wonder if we avoided it as newbie parents simply because we were traveling with our infant.  Now, I firmly believe that kids of any age are not too young for the art museum.

    Our son may have no memories of the trip, but FC Barcelona is his favorite soccer team.  Mere coincidence?

  • A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    Our family spent three days exploring Kerala during our trip to India last year.  We spent most of our time in India visiting relatives in Bangalore but spent one long weekend in “God’s Own Country,” which is a favorite holiday destination for Prince Charles and Camilla.  Located in South India along the Arabian Sea, Kerala has been known for exporting spices such as pepper, cardamom, turmeric, cloves and ginger for at least five thousand years.  It is baffling to think of a single region known for one trade for that long and no surprise that the food is glorious.  Literally, every bite of every meal was perfection, and we loved visiting Kerala with kids.

    Why Kerala With Kids?

    We were most excited about houseboat tours through the backwaters, which are the most popular tourist attraction of the area.   These boats, traditionally called kettuvallams were originally used to transport rice and occasionally as living quarters for royalty.  The boats have more recently been converted to accommodate tourists for day and overnight leisure trips, complete with a staff to drive the boat and prepare meals.  We were also drawn to the area’s Portuguese influence.  The spice trade brought Portuguese traders to Kerala in the 15th century and paved the way for the Portuguese colonization of the area.  As a result of the Portuguese influence, Christians in Kerala comprise almost 20% of the population, compared with a mere 2.3% in the entire Indian population.

    Visiting Kerala With Kids

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the outside of India.  Arrangements for our flights, hotels, driver and houseboat tour were all made locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept electronic payment and make advance bookings for foreigners.

    Transportation in Kerala With Kids

    We hired a driver named Kiran who picked us up at the airport in Cochin (also known as Kochi) in a specially requested six-passenger vehicle and stayed with us for three days while we explored Kumarakom, Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha) and Cochin.   A private driver may seem like a major indulgence – especially on the smaller, more rural roads, but it was really a necessity on this type of trip.

    Kiran not only transported us safely from place to place but also served as our guide.  He pointed out local sights, flora, cashew nuts trees, roadside coconut stands, jewelry emporiums and even a local temple elephant.  He did not quite understand my need to take the boys to the Arabian Sea, but he took us to the beach nonetheless.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with Kiran, who tailored our trip according to our preferences and made sure we did not miss the very best parts of Kerala.

    Kerala roadside
    Kerala’s greens and blues
    It’s not every day you see an elephant, but Kiran knew just where to find this one
    Fresh coconut water is divine

    Kumarakom and Alleppey 

    Accommodation in Kumarakom With Kids

    We spent two nights at the spectacular Vivanta by Taj – Kumarakom and absolutely loved the property.  This lakeside retreat featured luxury rooms, a private lagoon, boats, bikes, a playground and even bunnies.  The guest rooms were separate cottages situated around the lagoon, so we needed to walk through the beautifully manicured grounds to reach it.  Our room had a wonderful view of the pool, which we had to ourselves the entire stay.  Except for our houseboat excursion, we ate all our meals at the resort and generally enjoyed the activities provided by the resort, evening entertainment and scenery.

    Lagoon
    View of sunset over the lake from the resort
    Duck, duck, goose?
    Breakfast
    Pool fun

    Alleppey Houseboat Tour With Kids

    Most people travel to Alleppey to tour the backwaters on a houseboat.   Day or overnight trips are available, and we booked a five-hour tour through Lakelands Cruise.  There are a wide variety of boats, ranging from pretty basic boats to those tricked out with satellite receivers and air conditioning.   Each boat is staffed with a captain to steer and a chef who prepares traditional Keralite meals.  Even though every meal we ate in Kerala was superb, our lunch on the boat was the absolute best.

    Our boat had covered deck with a large chaise lounge swing and dining table at the front of the boat, an air-conditioned bedroom with an attached bath in the middle and a kitchen at the back.  The front was definitely not baby-proof, so we had to be careful not to let our daughter near the low railings.  I spent most of my time onboard lounging on the swing with our daughter relaxing on my lap.  We also retreated to the enclosed bedroom a few times so that she could run around.

    View out the front of the boat
    A chaise lounge swing is an amazing spot for a nap
    Another houseboat similar to ours

    While traveling the backwaters on a houseboat is pretty amazing in itself, the real excitement for us was really getting a chance to glimpse into the lives of some of the villagers who live on or near the water.  There was constant activity on the river banks as the villagers went about their lives.  We saw many locals bathing, washing clothes and utensils in the water.  For who definitely take modern plumbing for granted, watching people wash in the river is the first thing both boys remembered about this excursion.

    Washing in the river
    Washing dishes
    Doing laundry

    We also saw workers on the rice fields, children walking to or from school, people boating in the river and riding their bikes along the banks.  When we docked by a rice field, the boys got to explore the riverbank, examine the rice plants and see the various states of processing the crop goes through before rice makes it to the plate.

    Paddy field workers
    Coming home from school
    Boat transport
    Biking
    Rice

    In this region, many men wore a traditional wrap cotton sarong called a mundu.  Mundus are usually white or cream with a simple border and are worn folded by laborers and as a symbol of masculinity.  With very high temperatures while we were there, it is also a very practical attire.

    Mundu

    We also saw some beautiful birds along the river, including cranes, egrets and kingfisher birds.

    So many beautiful birds

    I admit that I thought five hours was going to be way too long to spend on the houseboat with three young kids.  At the beginning of the trip, I worried it might be an exhausting day wrangling our daughter.  Luckily, she was very happy to sit with me on the swing and thoroughly enjoyed the excursion.  I found myself more and more relaxed throughout the day and thought we could have enjoyed another hour or two when we docked. Nevertheless, I was glad that we chose not to spend the night on the houseboat with young kids and much preferred our overnight accommodations at the Taj, which were far more luxurious.

    Alleppey Beach With Kids

    On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Alleppey Beach .  I really wanted the kids to have a chance to see the Arabian Sea.  They really do love beaches and not so surprisingly, they needed to dip their toes in the water.  Alleppey is known more for its backwaters than its beach, and this one was almost empty during our visit.

    Dipping their toes in the Arabian Sea

    Cochin

    Accommodation in Cochin With Kids

    After our second night in Kumarakom, we headed back to Cochin along the Malabar Coast.  We stayed at the Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, an exceptional hotel on the harbor.  The highlight of the room for the kids was glass walled bathroom with a privacy blind that raised and lowered electronically with a switch, but they also enjoyed the view from or room.   We had a scrumptious dinner and breakfast at the hotel.  Although, after a busy few days, all three kids fell asleep before dinner was over (a first!).  The outdoor grounds of the hotel were lovely, and our son enjoyed a swim in the pool in the morning.

    View of the harbor from our room
    So sleepy
    Fun elephant sculpture
    The grounds were beautifully manicured
    View of the Arabian Sea from the pool

    Fort Cochin With Kids

    Before colonization, Cochin was a fishing village.  The major tourist attraction of the area are the Chinese fishing nets, which are located at the Cochin Beach and symbolize the history and culture of the region.  These nets were erected in the area starting in the 13th or 14th century and each operated by about six fishermen.  While they have been replaced by modern fishing techniques, they are open for tourists to experience first-hand. Local fisherman are even happy to allow tourists to raise and lower the nets.  My kids absolutely loved our hands on experience pulling up the net.   We visited Cochin beach in the evening and were treated to a beautiful sunset as we wandered through the nearby fish market.

    Chinese fishing nets
    Counterweights
    Helping out

    The nearby farmers’ market offered fresh catch, mostly from boats rather than the nets.  We enjoyed souvenir shopping at the stalls nearby.

    St Francis Church was the first European church built in India.  After his death, Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years until his remains were returned to Portugal.

    St. Francis Church

    Inside St. Francis
    Biking is such a common mode of transportation that the church yard is full of them

    We also enjoyed a Kalripayattu martial arts performance and were the only members of the audience.  Kalripayattu techniques include combinations of steps and postures and use a variety of swords and blades.  At the end of the show, the boys got a chance to participate with the performers.

    The performers’ strength was amazing

    We had a luxurious and truly spectacular vacation in Kerala.  Although we enjoyed seeing the tourist sights, I hope to spend more time relaxing at the beautiful resorts next time we visit.

    Planning a trip to India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Bangalore.

  • Why You Should Visit Copenhagen With Kids!

    Why You Should Visit Copenhagen With Kids!

    Guest Blogger:  Lisa, the mom behind TwoTravelingTots, is an American expat living in Copenhagen, Denmark and traveling the world with her husband and two young kids.  From far off wanderlust destinations like Australia, Thailand and Philippines to more local jaunts like Luxembourg, Finland and Italy, Lisa has traveled to 30 countries and 49 cities with her little ones in tow. Having lived in Copenhagen for over 5 years, Lisa is here to tell us Why You Should Visit Copenhagen with Kids and share her Top 10 Things to Do  while there – with some Insider Tips sprinkled throughout. Follow her adventures, tips and tales on Instagram and Facebook. For her detailed tips on Copenhagen, check out #TwoTravelingTotsCPH on Instagram.

    Traveling with kids and babies is not easy! Trust me, I know. My family and I travel the world with our 4 and 1.5 year olds.  There are certain cities that make the experience enjoyable and magical for both parents and children alike.  Copenhagen, Denmark is one of those cities!  Denmark was ranked by the UN World Happiness Report as the happiest country in the world in 2016.  In recent years Copenhagen, has received world-wide recognition for its New Nordic food scene, Danish design, and hygglig (cozy) lifestyle; however, what isn’t widely known is how child-friendly this city is.  It almost feels like every aspect is geared to the reality that people have kids and they travel with them. These things make this city the perfect place for a family visit.  From the free strollers found throughout Copenhagen Airport and the Lego play areas at the luggage carousel, to the ease of using public transport with strollers to the countless kids’ activities and green spaces found throughout the city; life in Copenhagen with children is AMAZING!

    Copenhagen is in Scandinavia, so the weather isn’t always the best. Summer is by far the best time of the year to visit, with warmer and longer days (sun sets around 9:30 pm).  December is also a very special time of year to visit because of the Christmas markets, street decorations and festive moods. However, the days are shorter, darker, and colder (sun sets around 4pm).

    This post highlights our Top 10 Things to Do with Children while also including Insider Tips that we’ve learned throughout the 5 years we have lived here. You’ll also find section called “Good to Know Tips” for some general pointers about what kind of clothes to pack, the Copenhagen Card (which provides free entrances to many of the attractions), and public transport tips.

    Stroget, the Walking Street, dressed up for Christmas.

    10 THINGS TO DO IN COPENHAGEN WITH KIDS

    #1: TIVOLI GARDENS

    No trip to Copenhagen is complete without a visit to Tivoli Gardens, a fairytale-like amusement park located in the heart of the city said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Disneyland. It’s the second oldest amusement park in the world – second only to Bakken, another Danish amusement park located on the outskirts of Copenhagen. Tivoli is only open four seasons a year – the summer period (mid-March – mid-September), the Halloween period (mid-October to November), the Christmas season (Mid-November – December) and the winter season (February) (Please check exact opening times before you go). It is beautiful and magical all times of the year. The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance, and children under the age of 8 enter for free.

    Halloween at the Nimb Hotel in Tivoli Gardens.

    #2: CANAL TOUR

    Another favorite activity for parents and kids alike is the Canal Tour.  Copenhagen is located on a harbor, so on a beautiful sunny day there is nothing nicer than seeing the city by water.  This is also a good way to see the bronze statute of the Little Mermaid from the back (in my humble opinion, it is not worth your time to make a trip to see her as she is underwhelming small). You can catch the canal Tour at Nyhavn or Gammel Strand.  The Copenhagen Card provides you free entrance to the Canal Tour but only at the Gammel Strand location.

    Insider Tip: Strollers are not allowed on the canal boats, so I recommend you leave them by the ticket counters.  I suggest investing in a simple flexible bike lock for your stroller so you can just lock it up wherever, and put your mind at ease.

    Nyhavn, originally a busy commercial port where ships from all over the world would dock, is now the perfect place to enjoy a canal ride.

    #3: ROSENBORG CASTLE

    A Royal Hermitage set in the middle of the City Center and the King’s Garden. It was built by Christian IV in the early 17th Century.  Not to be missed is the Crown Jewels Exhibit – my kids’ favorite.

    I recommend this castle because it’s not too big, easy to do with children and also in the heart of the King’s Garden. So, after a quick tour of the castle, you can set up a picnic in the King’s Garden, let the kids run around or visit the playground in the park.

    Insider Tip: If you visit mid-summer, you may be able to catch a free puppet show (currently Tuesday-Sunday at 2pm and 3pm located near the restaurant Orangeriet.

    #4: PLAYGROUNDS – INDOOR AND OUTDOORS

    Copenhagen can be an expensive city, so a visit to one of the many amazing parks located around town is a good free way for the kids to let off steam.

    Outdoor Parks

    The biggest open space park is Fælledparken located in Østebro. There are several different playgrounds located in this massive park:

    • “Mini Copenhagen,” just as it sounds, it’s a playground designed after iconic Danish buildings
    • A cycling park where kids can rent bicycles for free and practice riding on fake streets
    • Trampolines and swings
    • A skateboarding area
    • An outdoor gym both for kids and parents.
    • A free waterpark (open in the summers)
    “Mini Copenhagen”

    Superkilen, is another massive park located in the Nørrebro district.

    Superkilen

    Indoor Parks/Play Areas

    On a rainy day, which is quite often, try the FREE indoor playground called Remisen, located in Østebro, a short 10-minute bike ride or bus ride from the City Center.

    Remisen

    Ku.Be is another great indoor play area located in Frederiksberg; however, it is not free. There’s a climbing area and a café – great place for kids to get energy out.

    #5: COPENHAGEN ZOO

    The Copenhagen Zoo is a great zoo with elephants, hippos, polar bears, monkeys, giraffes and tons of other exciting animals. Also, there is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. If you don’t take your stroller, you can rent a wagon for the kiddos. There are also two different playgrounds, a petting zoo and designated picnic areas (you can bring in your own food!).

    Copenhagen Zoo

    Insider Tip: If a day at the Zoo seems too overwhelming or you’re short on time, try the Free Petting Zoo, ByOasen, in the Nørrebro district.

    ByOasen

    #6: EXPERIMENTARIUM

    Copenhagen’s new Science Center is fun for all ages, from little toddlers to parents! Two floors with 16 interactive exhibits from soap bubbles to a Labyrinth of Light to a Tunnel of Senses.  There is free entrance with the Copenhagen Card. It’s located in Hellerup – a 15-minute bus ride from the city center.

    Experimentarium

    Insider Tip: It gets crowded on weekends, so go early. Also, if the café is too crowded, the Waterfront shopping center, located next door, has tons of eating options.

    #7: THE LAKES

    Another favorite is to walk or bike around the lakes that surround the city center. I love to pick up a coffee from Lagkagehuset and a free bread bun (boller) for the kids (see my tips below on “Where to Eat”) and take a nice stroll around the lakes. On a sunny summer day, we like to rent swans at Kaffesalonen and ride them in the lakes. They also have a great food menu!

    Rented Swans from Kaffesalonen

    #8: SMK – The National Gallery of Denmark

    This museum provides more than 700 years of Danish Art. Plus, every weekend there are special art workshops for children, with tips and information on how your family can get creative at home.

    Insider Tip: SMK is located near the King’s Garden and can easily be combined with a trip to the Rosenberg Castle.

    #9: KLAMPENBORG – Dyrehave and Bakken

    Take a 20-minute train ride out of the city center to Klampenborg station to visit Jægersborg Dyrehave and the Bakken amusement park. Jægersborg Dyrehave, the deer park, is a huge forest where approximately 2100 deer live among the woods. Also, located within the forest is Bakken, the oldest amusement park in the world!

    Insider Tip: The entrance to Dyrehave is located right near Klampenborg station.  When you reach the train station, go up the hill (over the over-pass) and make a left. Also, you can take a horse carriage ride through the park. Final tip, beware of tics.

    Horse and Carriage Ride in Dryehave

    #10: BABY-BIO

    Bring your baby to the movies! As a new parent, the one thing I missed was going to the movies because let’s be realistic you can’t take a crying baby to the movies. However, in Copenhagen there is something called Baby-Bio – a couple of different films showings on specific days where you can bring your baby into the movie theater with you. The lights are not dimmed all the way so you can still see, and if the baby cries it’s no big deal. Also, if your baby is sleeping, you can leave him in his stroller by the movie attendant. Once your baby wakes up, the movie attendant will come get you. Win, Win! Google “BabyBio Copenhagen” for participating theaters near you.

    WHERE TO EAT WITH KIDS

    There are tons of great restaurants and cafes located everywhere in the city, and pretty much all of them have great children’s menus and high chairs. I’ve highlighted only a couple of our favorite places.

    Torvehallerne

    A food hall located within the city center near Rosenberg Castle. My kids’ favorites include the Fish and Chips and Oatmeal #2 from Grød. I would suggest visiting Torvehallerne in the morning to grab your lunch for a picnic, then head over to the Rosenberg Castle where you can have your picnic in the King’s Garden. After, you can even wander over to SMK, which is close by.

    Inside Torvhallen

    Boller (Bread Bun)

    A favorite treat or after school snack for my kids is a Danish bread bun called boller (pronounced bo-lla). They can be found at different pastry shops throughout the city – try the ones from Lagkagehuset, Emmery’s and Myers. They come in different flavors – plain, with raisins or with chocolate.

    Insider Tip: If you get yourself a treat or a coffee from Lagkagehuset, you may be able to get a free boller for your child – just ask!

    Laundromat Café

    This café offers a small play area right in the middle of the café, so parents can enjoy a relaxed meal while the kids play. They have three different locations – Nørrebro; Østebro and Frederiksberg C. The food is delicious!

    Café Norden

    Located right in the middle of the pedestrian walking street, Stroget, Café Norden is a favorite for locals and tourists alike. You can bring your stroller inside, and there’s great seating options upstairs with views of the walking street. The brunch plate is a must-try.

    GOOD TO KNOW TIPS

    After living in this wonderful city for over 5 years and raising our two kids here, I’ve learned lots of tips and tricks. Here are some of my essential “Good to Know” tips.

    Copenhagen Airport

    In my opinion, it is one of the best airports in Europe because it’s not too big and overwhelming, there is a kids play area in terminal 2; there are fantastic eating options and best of all there are FREE STROLLERS to use throughout the airport. So, feel free to gate check your stroller as you can just pick one up at the airport – they are around everywhere. They also lay flat, so they are suitable for all ages.

    Free Strollers in Copenhagen Airport

    Nursing and Diaper Changing Area

    I’ve nursed my two little ones almost everywhere in Copenhagen with no issues whatsoever as it is very common here. However, if you’re in the City Center and would like some privacy and a break from shopping and sightseeing, stop by either Illums or Magasin. The rooftops of both department stores offer a special nursing area and diaper changing area – a nice break for parents and kids.

    The nursing area at Illums Rooftop.

    Strollers and Public Transport

    Copenhagen is a very stroller friendly city in the sense that all the roads and sidewalks are paved (aside from a couple cobblestone streets), it’s flat with no hills so it’s a very walkable city, and strollers are allowed in most stores. There is a maximum allowance of two strollers per bus, and the entrance for the strollers is in the middle of the bus. The metro and trains also have special stroller sections.

    Insider Tip: If there are already two strollers on a bus and you have an umbrella stroller, just fold up your stroller and get on the bus.

    Yes, even our big double stroller fits on the bus!

    Copenhagen Card

    Invest in a Copenhagen Card: it provides entrance to over 70 museums and attractions plus offers free public transport.

    Bring along two children under the age of 10 for free. You can purchase different cards depending on how many days you intend to spend in the city.  You can pick one up at the CPH Airport Service Center or throughout the city.

    Rain Gear

    “There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear.”

    I love this old Scandinavian saying!! Depending on what time of year you visit, it is important to pack accordingly – think lots of layers for both yourselves and the kids. In the summer, even though your the weather may reach 65 degrees, in the sun it gets very hot and in the shade it might be too cool. Also, it’s very important to bring a rain jacket and rain boots. I know luggage space is precious – but it tends to rain often, and having the right gear will only make your stay more memorable.

    I hope this is helpful! Enjoy your time in this beautiful city!

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  • Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Bangalore may be known more as an IT mecca than for tourism, but this “Garden City of India” is a great place to experience India. With a population of 8.4 million, it is the country’s third largest city and the capital of Karnataka.  We spent two weeks visiting family in Bangalore when our kids were 20 months, 5 and 8 and had an unforgettable trip.  We can’t wait to return to Bangalore with kids.

    When I first traveled to Bangalore over the 2007 New Year, I saw no more than three other blondes during our five-day visit.  That trip was the first time that I had ever been a minority.  I definitely attracted attention and a fair number of double-takes, but no one ever approached me on the street.  Minorities in the US have historically been treated with suspicion or viewed negatively, but that was definitely not my experience in India.  Indians seemed to be merely intrigued or interested in my uniqueness but not viewed in a negative light.  I was clearly identified as a tourist and constantly encouraged to enter stores.  When we visited again in 2016 with our three kids, we saw far more tourists in Bangalore and “blended in” a bit more.  Here are our favorite five family activities for visits to Bangalore with kids:

    #1:  Eating Out in Bangalore With Kids

    We ate like royalty in India.  Our family’s favorite cuisine is Indian, and all of our kids enjoy some spice in their food. With many meals, my husband and I enjoyed Kingfisher, the most popular Indian beer.  Kingfisher is available in the US, but only a version that is also manufactured in the States and does not taste like the Indian Kingfisher.

    Kingfisher, our favorite Indian beverage, complete with never-ending bubbles

    We ate lunch out daily and enjoyed some phenomenal restaurants, including:

    • Tandoor features palatial decor and traditional tandoori cooking and is located on MG Road.  The butter chicken, milai chicken and roti are our favorites  We loved Tandoor so much that we ate here twice.
    • Chutney Chang is a buffet offering Indian and Chinese dishes where we ate Easter lunch.  The buffet is so large that you have to do a quick preview before you start serving yourself.  And, save room for the delicious desserts.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the cotton candy.
    • Le Brassierie at Le Meridien was another unbelievable buffet where we dined for lunch on our last day in India.  La Brassierie’s buffet offers North Indian, South Indian, Japanese, Chinese and continental food.  When the server heard that we were celebrating our son’s birthday, they brought out an entire cake inscribed with Happy Birthday.  My little dimpled guy has never smiled so big.

    #2:  Bangalore’s Lalbagh Botanical Garden

    After a few hours in Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, it will be clear why Bangalore is known as the “Garden City” in this outdoor oasis located within a crowded city.  We hired a guide to take us around the gardens in an expanded golf cart and thoroughly enjoyed a few hours away from the hustle and bustle (and honking) of the city.

    We particularly enjoyed the 300 year old silk cotton tree, bird watching and generally exploring the foliage.

    #3:  Shopping in Bangalore With Kids

    Shopping was one of our favorite activities in Bangalore.  Almost everything available in India is offered at a fraction of the price you would find in the US.  Additionally, handicrafts made in India and jewelry are so much more unique and interesting.  We made a number of purchases, including a tailor-made suit made to measure for my older son’s First Communion, prescription glasses, jewelry, shoes and clothes.  While I never had trouble with substandard products, shopping at a government emporium is a good way to ensure quality at a reasonable price.

    Some of our favorite shopping areas include:

    • Brigade Road/Mahatma Gandhi Road (aka MG Road) is a popular tourist shopping area with a wide variety of popular international stores including Nike and Adidas.  Both Brigade Road and MG Road are very busy streets, and you have to be careful when crossing, but there are sufficient sidewalks for pedestrians.  Make sure to cross when the locals do.  There are often stalls set up on MG Road, and we purchased belts personally fit to each of us and a Panama hat for our younger son at one of these stalls.  Bargaining at all stores except emporiums and international chain stores is common.  Fast food chains McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Dominos are all available, but we definitely did not waste any of our meals on fast food and didn’t choose “Western food” once.
      • Cauvery Emporium at the intersection of Brigade and MG Road is a can’t miss for authentic handicrafts, including textiles and sandalwood and rosewood products.
      • Cottage Industries Emporium is another government  emporium located a short drive away where we always find amazing Indian handicrafts.
      • PN RAO is a tailor that specializes in made to measure suits.  After picking out your material and pattern, your custom-made suit is ready for a first fitting about a week later.  We had a suit made for our eight-year old who was about to make his First Communion.

        Brigade Road at night
    Handcrafted wooden toys that you can sometimes see being made outside of Cauvery Emporium
    • Commercial Street is one of the oldest shopping areas in Bangalore.  It is extremely busy shopping street known for sale of clothes, shoes, jewelry and electronics.  Sidewalks are not consistently available, and the main street is shared by parked cars, moving cars and a fair share of pedestrians, so you need to use extra caution with kids here.  Soch (my favorite Indian clothes store) and Mex both have large stores here.  I was thrilled that Soch shortened my  kurti to my desired length for no additional charge and had it ready in about an hour.
    • The Forum in Koramangala was India’s first shopping mall development that includes five stories of shops and a multiplex movie theater and a food court.  Soch also has a store here.

    #4:  Religious Celebrations in Bangalore With Kids

    Spending Holy Week in Bangalore was a truly unique experience.  While Hinduism is the most common religion in India, there are almost 20 million Catholics.  My husband’s ancestors come from Goa and Mangalore, which are areas with large Catholic populations.  While some Indians were converted to Christianity at the time of Christ, most were converted during the Portuguese and British colonial periods.  In Goa, it was common for Indians to change their names to Christian names after conversion.  They often adopted the Portugese surname of the missionary who converted them.  As a result, there are about 50 very common Indian Catholic surnames.

    Holy Thursday and Good Friday services at our church at home are well attended but there are always plenty of seats.  If you arrive 20 minutes early on Easter Sunday, you are pretty much guaranteed a seat.  The services we attended in India gave “standing room only” a new meaning.  Multiple services are held almost hourly in different languages, and hundreds of chairs are set up outside with large screens live video streaming the Mass.  We arrived at least 30 minutes before each service began to park and then wait outside the doors for the prior service to finish.  As soon as the prior Mass ended, people would rush in to find a seat.  Everyone was dressed up and reverent and patient with the large crowds.

    Easter 2016 coincided with Holi, a Hindu Spring festival known as the “festival of colors” that is popular with non-Hindus as well.  People cover each other with brilliant colors and spray each other with water guns and water balloons.  We enjoyed watching this joy-filled celebration.  We worried about the color getting in the kids’ eyes and didn’t participate in the bright celebration, but found a great list of tips for celebrating Holi in India.

    Waiting for Mass
    Throwing color to celebrate Holi

    #5:  Sporting Events in Bangalore With Kids

    With two boys, sporting events are always high on their list.  Our trip occurred during the 2016 ICC World Twenty20 cricket tournament, and we watched cricked almost every night.  It was amazing to see my boys fall in love with the sport that their dad grew up with.  Cricket is an extremely complicated game, but they started picking up the rules and the lingo.  My husband purchased tickets to a match held in Bangalore between West Indies and Sri Lanka, and the boys couldn’t wait.  Unfortunately, our oldest spiked a  high fever on the day after we arrived in India, which was the day of match and was crushed to watch from home while his brother had an experience of a lifetime.  West Indies went on to win the tournament in a heart wrenching game against England.  Admittedly, even I enjoyed watching that.

    The boys also had unique experiences playing soccer in the school yard of their dad’s school, St. Joseph’s.

    Our older son also played soccer every night he could with neighbor children in the complex we stayed in.  His brother opted for swimming in the pool where he made a few friends himself and taught himself to swim during our stay.

    We were lucky to have about two weeks in Bangalore and explore at a slow pace.  To make the most of a short visit, check out this ultimate Bangalore itinerary.

    While both boys note that visiting family was the best part of our time in Bangalore, we really enjoyed exploring the city, which was so different than our everyday lives.  Visiting India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Kerala.

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  • India With Kids

    India With Kids

    India is an amazing country for kids to experience.  Our trip to Bangalore and Kerala in March 2016 was our children’s first taste of South Asia and really opened their eyes to the beautiful country their dad called home when he was a child.  In India, they saw two extremes – the luxurious lifestyles of a portion of the population and the challenges of a developing country.  Our most memorable experiences of the trip included countless amazing meals, fabulous shopping, unparalleled street chaos (vehicles, people and stray animals sharing the road) and some luxurious relaxation in Kerala.

    Planning

    My husband and I had previously traveled together to India over the Christmas holidays in 2006.  Our trip included stops in Goa, Mangalore, Bangalore and Bombay, but we knew that we wanted to limit our internal travel on our first trip with kids.  We chose to spend the majority of our time in Bangalore visiting my husband’s family and make only one side-trip to Kerala during our 16 days there.

    We traveled when our youngest was a full-fledged toddler of 20 months but could still qualify as a lap-child, which is how she would travel even if we bought her a seat.  Because we were staying mostly with family, our trip planning for the Bangalore portion required only booking flights.  With the long journey to get to India, we decided to extend our sons’ spring break by a week to minimize school absences.  About five months before our trip, we booked flights from Cleveland to Bangalore on Qatar Airways with stopovers in Boston and Doha.

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the US.  Mark’s uncle was able to help us book our Kerala trip locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept bookings from outside of India.  Nancy also has friends who have highly recommend Tours By Locals to arrange guides.

    Prior to our departure, we secured e-visas.   We traveled on 60-day e-tourist visas but had to apply during a specific window and complete final processing at the Bangalore Airport upon arrival.  It was a bit of an added hassle to our middle of the night arrival, but far less expensive than the one-year visa.  This option made sense for us because we did not expect a return trip in the near future.

    We also made got the necessary vaccines, which include typhoid and Hepatitis A.  Because there was minimal malaria risk in Bangalore and Kerala during the time of our trip, we did not have to take precautionary malaria medicine.  This was a huge relief because all anti-malaria medication have pretty scary side effects.  We carried bug sprays and wipes because the selection and availability of both are limited in India but were glad not to need them.

    Packing

    Because there was no fee for checked baggage, and I was not completely sure what items might be easy to find in India, I packed substantially more than usual.  However, next time we go to India, I’ll bring far less knowing that we are certain to purchase clothes and likely even shoes after we arrive.  Also, it’s important to check the expected temperature, as some seasons can be very hot in India.  It was unseasonably warm during our stay, so the skinny jeans I packed were really of no use.  I recommend packing light-weight clothes.  As always, I traveled with some children’s ibuprofen and adult pain and cold medication even though we knew that medicine was readily available in pharmacies at a fraction of their US cost (e.g. a bottle of children’s ibuprofen cost about $.30). Diapers are probably available, but I would recommend bringing them as well.

    Getting There

    I was worried about how the kids would survive the 30-hour trip from Cleveland to Bangalore.  Before our departure, we learned that the Boston-Doha route we booked was starting service on the day before our departure and featured the United States’ second Airbus 350.  As soon as I stepped on board, I knew that the Airbus 350 was a special aircraft.  It was absolutely beautiful with décor and lighting that reminded me of a night club.  The in-seat entertainment was unparalleled.  All the Academy Award nominated films that I had not had a chance to watch were available even before their DVD releases.  The electronic components were cleverly stored under the floor so that valuable under seat leg room was not sacrificed in the process.  Also, the plane was mostly empty, so my husband and each of my boys took a row of three seats for themselves to sleep, and my daughter and I shared another row.  This allowed us the luxury to get semi-decent sleep for about seven hours of the 12-hour flight.  The Airbus 350 is the way to travel – especially on a long flight when traveling in coach with a toddler virtually connected to you.  When we stepped off, we were sad that we would not be traveling home on this exact plane.

    Airbus 350

    Qatar Airlines ran promotional videos about Doha on all flights and offers complimentary city tours.  Doha definitely looked like a city we would like to visit one day, and we definitely hope to return to Qatar with kids.  However, our itinerary did not permit us to leave the airport.  My oldest son did play a little violin in the airport during our layover for the novelty of playing violin in Qatar.

    Transportation

    India is definitely a challenging travel destination logistically – with or without kids.  If you are traveling to India without local family, you need to make sure to hire a recommended driver and guide for every day that you are there.  This may seem like an extravagance, but it is relatively inexpensive (we paid a driver with a car about $20 for eight hours).  While we often traveled by uber and even auto with no issues, my husband was very familiar with the city, and his uncle always took the precaution of watching our driver’s route from pickup to drop off.

    Traffic is pretty chaotic in Indian cities and watching the other travelers on the road is truly an experience.  The vehicles, people, animals and signs you see and non-stop honking you hear are all so different from anything you see in the West.  Cows were a common fixture along the side of the road, and we once even saw an elephant.  It’s a good thing that it was so interesting to watch because even traveling a few miles can take quite a long time in crowded cities.  Also, car seats are virtually unheard of, and cars are not equipped with self-retracting belts or any kind of LATCH/Isofix system to make them really usable.  Luckily, cars, motorcycles, autos and bikes travel at low speeds. At least, that’s what I kept telling myself.

     

    Common street scene

     

    It’s not everyday you see an elephant walking on the side of the road

    Accommodation

    We were fortunate that we were able to mostly stay with family.  If you are not visiting family or friends, it is advisable to book higher-end or recommended hotels, and 4.5-5 star hotels are generally available for $100-$150/night.  We thoroughly enjoyed staying at Taj hotels during our trip to Kerala and had a wonderful buffet lunch at the stunning Leela Palace.

    Leela Palace in Bangalore

    Shopping

    Shopping in India is pretty amazing.  Most items are a fraction of the cost that you would find them in the US.  On our first trip to India before kids, we bought so much that we had to purchase a suitcase to bring all the items back with us.  We purchased several bedspreads, a rug, two side tables (which came apart and fit in our luggage), a carved lamp, prescription glasses, some handicrafts and jewelry.  While I was there, I felt like I was buying too much jewelry.  But, I found that in the nine years between our visits that I rarely found pieces as interesting, unique and affordable in the US.  So, on our trip last year, I made sure to not limit myself and found several new pieces, which are now in heavy rotation.

    Not only are prices substantially lower in India, but service is amazing.  When we looked at jewelry in a store and returned a few days later, the salesman (or less commonly, the saleswoman) would pull out whatever pieces I expressed any interest in and place them on display as I reached the counter.  In home goods stores, someone would pull out every bedspread or rug that we looked at twice.

    So many options!
    Bedspread displayed for us

    Language Barrier

    Many people think that communication would be an issue in India.  However, Hindi and English are co-official languages.  There are 22 major languages spoken in India, and many Indians speak their local language at home, but Hindi and English are unifying languages.  In our experience, anyone in a service industry role spoke English.  The only times we needed to communicate with a non-English speaker occurred when we were riding in an auto.  My husband’s broken Hindi was all we needed to get to our desired destination.  The prevalence of English surprises many Americans but is an obvious result in a country that was largely a British colony for over 300 years.

    Kid Caution

    Many people asked if it was safe for our kids to travel to India and had specific concerns about healthcare, safe food and water.  If you do have a medical issue when traveling in India, first-rate healthcare is widely available and affordable.  The day we arrived, our son spiked a fever, which soared to 104 degrees the next day.  We were able to take him to an ER on a Sunday and have him examined by a pediatric doctor.  The doctor prescribed medicine and rest and prepared a folder filled with all the details of the examination and recommendations.  We were definitely satisfied by his care and shocked that the hospital fee was a mere $8 and prescribed medicines cost about $1 total at the pharmacy.  After this experience, it doesn’t surprise us that people travel to India from all over the world for medical procedures, including $1,800 heart surgery with outcomes among the world’s best.

    The tap water is absolutely not safe to drink, even when brushing your teeth.  Outside of our relatives’ homes where the water was specially filtered, we only drank sealed beverages.  While this seems odd at first, it is such a common request that servers typically bring sealed beverages to your table so that you are certain that no tampering could have occurred.  There is also a risk that raw fruit and vegetables may have been washed in tap water that can cause illness.  Luckily, the country’s specialties are all cooked food like curries, naan, dosas, biryani and samosas, and cooked vegetables are especially tasty.  We ate our way through India at well-known and higher end restaurants and had no food or water issues at all.

    Because my son contracted a bacterial infection from swallowing pool water in Mexico as a toddler, we were particularly careful with our daughter.  She only used one pool in Kerala, and I held her above the water the entire time she was in the pool.  We were also extra careful when bathing her.

    Because of risks related to food and vaccinations, India is not a recommended travel destination for young babies or women who are pregnant, nursing or planning to become pregnant.

    India with Kids?

    Our vacation in India was definitely more complicated than any of our other trips as a family, but I’ve never seen our boys have so many “aha moments.” Nothing quite compares to the moments they spent playing soccer with local boys in their dad’s school yard, dipping their toes into the Arabian Sea, relaxing on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala, learning to swim in their great aunt and uncle’s pool, riding in an auto, watching us negotiate with salespeople, operating a Chinese fishing net, attending Mass in a church that gave “standing room only” a new meaning and eating the most delicious meals of their life.  If you are aware of the risks and plan accordingly, India is an amazing family travel destination, and one you will definitely never forget.

    Check out Bangalore Highlights and Kerala Highlights.

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  • Best Family Resorts on Riviera Maya

    Best Family Resorts on Riviera Maya

    Riviera Maya was such a perfect family vacation spot during my maternity leave that we did it twice.  For both trips, we chose an all-inclusive vacation in Mexico with our kids (aged from two months to six) because we thought it would be the most laid-back and relaxed trip we could take with an infant.  All-inclusive hotels are not prevalent in the US, but they are common throughout Mexico and in several Caribbean islands.  Both trips definitely were low key and different from our normal vacations filled with exploring new cities and sites, but we did get to plenty of time at the beach and pool.  There were also some cultural opportunities with traditional food, speaking our limited Spanish with the staff and attending market nights and cultural events.  We enjoyed our stay at two of the best family resorts on Riviera Maya.

    We traveled during peak hurricane season in August and October, so the resorts were not crowded.  We spent most of our days between the pool or beach and had plentiful food options at convenient restaurants and evening entertainment.  Because of the all-inclusive nature, we did not have to guestimate how much food, drinks and entertainment for the trip might cost.  We just added a few hundred dollars for tips, souvenirs and special activities and had a relatively certain total cost of the trip at the time of booking.

    Great view for a family photo

    Booking a Trip to Riviera Maya With Kids

    Both vacations to Riviera Maya were Apple Vacations trips.  We had taken a trip to Punta Cana through Apple once before we had kids, and it was very relaxing.  Apple is a major package travel operator offering flight and hotel packages that also include airport transportation.  Apple rates hotels based on an apple system with the highest rating designated as six golden apples.  We have always chosen an all-inclusive beach-front hotel in the six golden apple category and read hotel reviews on Trip Advisor before making our selection.

    Online resources make it easier than ever to create your own vacation package by booking your own flights, hotels and transfers in Mexico.  However, we found the Apple package cost was lower than what we could book separately.  We also booked both trips through Doylestown Travel, a travel agency with very helpful and knowledgeable agents and offers a best price guarantee for Apple Vacations and any other vacation they book.

    I can never get tired of this view

    Accommodations in Riviera Maya With Kids

    We two Now Resorts in Riviera Maya stayed at the Now Jade in 2010 and the Now Sapphire in 2014.  Both were amazing properties located about 20-30 minutes from the airport in Puerto Morelos.

    Now Jade With Kids

    Upon check-in at the Now Jade, we were informed that we had been upgraded to an ocean-front suite in the preferred club for the entire week.  This was a great way to start off the week.  The centrally located ocean-front suite was beautiful and had a stunning view.   With the jacuzzi tub located on the patio and basically unusable for our infant and toddler, we figured out quickly that to shower with our four-month-old. 

    View from the patio of our ocean-front, preferred club room
    Our bedroom

    The preferred club was a perk that we had not even considered booking due to the substantially higher per person cost, but we thoroughly enjoyed the ocean front suite and the quiet, air-conditioned club lounge with specialty snacks and a full bar.  At the time, the daily cost for WiFi was rather exorbitant, and it was great to have occasional use of the free computers to check email.  We also had access to the adults’ only preferred club pool, but my husband and I could use it only one at a time while the other stayed with the boys.  The few times we tried this were brief visits during the kids’ afternoon naps and wished a little that we could spend more time there.

    Now Jade’s facilities were contemporary and clean.  We made nightly dinner reservations and tried out all of the restaurants, except for the one that was designated as adults only.  Our toddler particularly enjoyed Hibachi (and, he still does).

    We spent most of our days lounging at the pool or the beach.  Our son particularly enjoyed the shallow toddler pool, which was conveniently situated right next to the resort’s main pool.  We actually chose Now Jade over Now Sapphire because the only toddler pool at Now Sapphire was located within the Kids’ Club area.  Because our kids were too young for the Kids’ Club, we wanted a resort with a usable toddler pool and became friends with a family from England who also spent their days lounging next to the toddler pool.

    This is the life

    Other than yoga by the pool, which my toddler and I both enjoyed, we did not really participate in any of the activities during the day.  However, we often watched the evening entertainment, which included acrobats and dancers in an indoor, air-conditioned theater.

    Now Sapphire With Kids

    When we decided to make a return maternity leave trip to Riviera Maya four years later shortly after our daughter was born, we decided to stay at Now Jade’s sister property, Now Sapphire.  We loved our time at the Now Jade and definitely wanted to stay at a resort of the same standard but also wanted to try something slightly different.  Because our boys were now four and six, they could enjoy the main pool with floaties.  So, it was no issue that Now Sapphire’s only toddler pool was located inside the Kids’ Club.

    We again booked through Doylestown Travel and inquired about extending our stay to 10 nights rather than the standard seven-night vacation.  Because the flights are a substantial portion of the vacation cost, we discovered that adding an additional three nights only cost an extra $400 (total, not per person!).  Because we really enjoyed the preferred club status at Now Jade, we decided to upgrade from a regular junior suite to a preferred club tropical junior suite.  The cost of the upgrade without the ocean view was not substantial, and we decided that we really wanted the perks more than a room with a view.  The upgrade turned out to be better than expected when we learned only preferred club guests could reserve the poolside cabanas and also received free WiFi throughout the resort.

    Reserving pool cabanas was one of the highlights of our trip.  Especially with an infant, it was so wonderful to essentially spend much of the day relaxing on a large shaded bed at the side of the pool.  As preferred club guests during low season, we were able to reserve a pool cabana every other day of our stay.  We spent cabana days mostly by the pool.  Because our daughter could nap in the cabana, going in for an afternoon nap was not necessary.  So, between breakfast and dinner, we just ventured out for lunch.

    Cabana paradise

    Now Sapphire found creative ways to deliver guests an afternoon snack, like fruit skewers on a kayak.

    The preferred club lounge was a nice, air-conditioned and quiet place to go before or after dinner.  It was set up like a large living room with couches and several chess sets, which were a particular hit with our oldest.  While our preferred club guest room was a “tropical” view rather than “ocean-front”, it was clean and nice, and honestly, we really spent very little time in it during daylight hours.

    Our boys were old enough to spend time at the Kids’ Club, but they only had a few brief stays at their own request.  It was a great place to play video games on a rainy afternoon, and my oldest joined the group for beach soccer another morning.  The kids in the club always seemed well-supervised and happy, but we really wanted to spend as much time with them as possible during our trip.

    The nighttime entertainment was also particularly memorable.  We stopped in at the air-conditioned theater most nights after dinner and usually ended up staying longer than we planned.  Our favorite was the fire show on the beach, but the acrobats, musicians and magicians were also fun for all ages.

    We had a few unusual challenges with our middle child falling sick with a mild flu just after we arrived, but 24-hour room service was certainly useful there.  We thoroughly enjoyed the Now Sapphire.  I would go back in a heartbeat if my husband, but my husband prefers more doing and seeing vacations.

    Packing for a Trip to Riviera Maya With Kids

    Packing for our Riviera Maya vacations was complicated by the fact that you cannot pick up forgotten items at Target or Boots.  The resort store does carry a number of the essentials, but your options are both limited and extremely expensive.  And, you cannot guarantee that what you need will be available. One resort store carried diapers only in size three and no swimming diapers.  If you’ve ever had a baby, you know that “close enough” doesn’t really work with diaper sizing, and a baby needs a swimming diaper to go into the pool.  These are not items for forget at home.

    We met a guy on his honeymoon who forgot flip flops and a suit and spent about $75 purchasing the only suitable options at the resort.  It’s definitely important to bring at least two complete swim outfits (suits/shirt/cover-up) per person because you will be wearing those most of the time.  Also, it is important to bring with you goggles, floaties (arm bands and rings), snorkels, fins, beach balls, sand toys and children’s ibuprofen when traveling with kids.

    During our first trip, I had two boys in diapers and had to keep track of how many diapers each went through on a daily basis in advance to guestimate what we would need.  We did have some regular diapers, swimming diapers and wipes left at the end of the week, but not too many, which I counted as a win.  I had underestimated the amount of sunscreen we would need, and we would have had to buy one of the $25 bottles in the resort store if we had stayed one more day.  I made sure to bring significantly more sunscreen than I thought we would need the next time.

    Neither resort we stayed at had washer or drier available for guests.  The resort offered dry cleaning service on a per piece basis only.  We did bring some liquid detergent to do hand washing of suits and essentials, but we generally packed more clothes than we typically do on vacation, particularly for our infants.  Because we were in suits most of the day and only changed for dinner, we were also able to wear clothes more than one time without an issue.

    The US dollar is the typical currency at Mexican resorts.  Everyone tips in dollars, and purchases like excursions and souvenirs are all quoted in dollars.  ATM machines not only charge a fee but also convert your withdrawal from US dollars to Mexican pesos and then back to US dollars.  We learned this the hard way.  It is definitely helpful to bring with you more cash than you expect to need.  If you can’t bring a stack of dollar bills for tipping, bartenders are very willing to help you get change.

    Items that are not needed include towels, snacks (except for the plane ride there) and toys/books from home.

    Excursions from Riviera Maya With Kids

    Apple Vacations offers a number of daily excursions from Riviera Maya hotels with transportation included.  Trips include a Chichen Itza tour, swimming with dolphins, ziplining and visits to Tulum and Playa del Carmen.  In 2010, we did an afternoon shopping trip to Playa del Carmen but chose to stay on the resort when we returned with three kids in 2014.  However, my husband hired a guide with a boat to take him and our six-year-old son snorkeling after he spent many days practicing in the resort pool, and that experience was the highlight of my son’s trip.  He came back with a love of ocean life and chose a hand painted ocean scene as his souvenir to bring home.

    Watching an artist create ocean scenes at market night

    Tips in Riviera Maya

    While all tips are “included” in your all-inclusive stay, tipping servers, bartenders, housekeepers and concierges is relatively common and definitely appreciated.  The service staff work hard and clearly rely on tips in addition to their salaries.  The common 15-20% gratuity is not required, and people who do not tip do not get bad service.  However, people who tip receive extra special attention.  For example, we regularly tipped about $3-$5 daily during our buffet lunch, and after the first day, servers would call to us to sit in the best table in their section as soon as we walked through the door and make sure we all had what we needed.

    Riviera Maya – Kid Caution

    The main safety concerns in Mexico are sunburn and unsafe food or water.  Because both of our infants were exclusively nursed at the time of our trips, there was no concerns about unsafe food or water or safely cleaning bottles.  Note that an infant must be at least six months old to get a Hepatitis A vaccination, and there is definitely added risk to taking a child who is not exclusively nursed and has not received that immunization.

    At Now Sapphire, there was clearly high attention paid to dietary restrictions.  Our daughter had a milk protein allergy that developed after we booked the trip.  She could be affected by any dairy that I consumed, and I was concerned about unknowingly eating food cooked with butter.  However, the servers were amazing at informing me which dishes were prepared with butter and also finding the resort’s stashes of Kirkland soy milk so that I could get some calcium during my stay.  Due to their diligence, I did not mistakenly consume any dairy during the entire trip.  I came home feeling confident that it wasn’t so challenging eating out with dietary restrictions – until a few weeks later when a restaurant near our home clearly made an error when preparing my dish.

    We specifically chose resorts where there were no reports of food or water problems and took extra precautions avoiding any raw or cut fruit and vegetables that may have been washed in tap water.  Despite all our carefulness, our oldest child contracted a bacteria infection from ingesting pool water in 2010.  We did not realize until his diagnosis just how dangerous pool water could be.  Because toddlers and young children regularly swallow pool water, we decided after that trip that we would not return to Mexico until after the toddler years.  We had no issues with bacteria infections on our return trip, and our infant daughter did not even dip her toes into the pool or the Caribbean.

    Now Jade pool

    The resorts offered plenty of shade options near the beach.  For our infants, the canopies from both the stroller and infant seat and sun hats provided extra sun protection. But, our favorite days were the cabana days when we had built in shade and open air. Because we traveled with infants under six months old, we used California Baby sunscreen, a non-chemical sunscreen.

    Is Riviera Maya Kid Friendly?

    Both Riviera Maya family resorts that we stayed at were extremely kid friendly.  While there are some safety concerns with infants and toddlers, this was probably the easiest to take with young kids.  I’m not sure vacationing with kids can ever be completely relaxing, but both trips were glorious, nonetheless.

    Note:  These trips were taken in 2010 and 2014, and safety of travel in Mexico has changed since those trips.  Please check all travel advisories before booking a trip to Mexico with kids.

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  • Africa Part IV: Victoria Falls, with kids?

    Africa Part IV: Victoria Falls, with kids?

    In June 2017, my husband and I took a much needed kid-free anniversary trip to Africa. Part of our trip involved three days, two nights in Zimbabwe, which I’ll discuss here. For general trip planning and itinerary, go here. You can also read about our experiences safariing at Umlani Bushcamp in South Africa and Muchenje Safari Lodge in Botswana.

    How did we get to Zimbabwe?

    En route from South Africa to Botswana, we had a three day, two night stop over in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. The flight was a short two hour trip from Johannesburg to Zimbabwe, but do be aware that you will need to allow extra time for the international departure AND for clearing customs on the way in. Zimbabwean visas are not available in advance from the Embassy in DC and the line for visas was long and cash only ($30 for a single entry, $60 for multiple entry). As the State Department’s travel guidance states, it is also critical the you bring sufficient cash for the duration of your stay in Zimbabwe. Although the major lodges / restaurants / hotels / travel outfitters will accept credit card, it is nearly impossible to withdraw cash from the ATM and it is also extremely difficult to obtain change (more on this later), so small bills are critical.

    Where did we stay? 

    Although many recommended that we stay at the Victoria Falls Hotel, one of the oldest colonial style hotels overlooking the Falls, we elected to stay off the beaten path at the Batonka Guest Lodge, which had just opened about a year prior to our arrival. Although there ended up being a slight mix up with our travel reservation (I was very glad to have a printed copy of our confirmation with me!), the hotel quickly accommodated us and made sure that we had drinks to hold us over while we wanted for the rooms to sort themselves out.

    The Batonka Guest Lodge is an ideal place for staying with kids. There is a large, grassy area for the kids to play, a clean, inviting pool, and both indoor and outdoor dining so parents can dine outside while watching their kids play in the grass.

    enjoying my afternoon at the Batonka Guest Lodge

    As a small hotel, it is also able to more personally cater to the individual and the general manager was already around and ready to provide suggestions or assistance, including offering to pack a breakfast to take with us on the morning of our early departure. The hotel also offers a small lunch menu (sandwiches, salad, cheese board) and a prix fixe dinner menu that was $35/person – three courses, including dessert.

    What did we do?

    There’s a plethora of activities in Victoria Falls. The major outfitter for activities is Wild Horizons, but after looking at the activities offered by both Wild Horizons and Shearwater Adventures, we decided to book with Shearwater Adventures because we were interested in the Batoka Gorge Hike and Ndebele Village Tour. I was able to book both the hike/tour and a walking tour of the Falls over the internet prior to our departure and because we booked multiple adventures, was given a 10% discount off the total.

    Batoka Gorge Hike and Ndebele Village Tour

    On the morning of our scheduled hike, our guide, Charles, picked us up at the hotel. Charles explained that it was an approximately one hour drive to the starting point of our hike and that we would be dropped off, with our driving picking us up at a designated location to take us to our lunch destination. The drive was in an open air vehicle, similar to the ones we rode on during our safaris, and it was extremely cold and windy. Luckily, we were given heavy ponchos to use to shield ourselves from the wind.

    I personally enjoyed leaving the main tourist part of Victoria Falls and going off into the countryside. We saw farmers, leading their cows and goats, family townships, and came across many children walking to and from school.

    Approximately one hour into the drive, we were dropped off at the start of our walk. The walk began with an hour long walk through what would be a large field to the untrained eye, but Charles explained how we were actually on a walking path and passing through small tracts of land that were given to individuals by the local chiefs. Although I had done lots of prior research about activities and the logistics of travel, I had neglected to read up about the Ndebele people, but Charles was more than happy to explain the relationship between the Ndebele people and the Zimbabwean government. Along the way, Charles pointed out vegetation and other signs of wild life.

    our guide, Charles!

    About an hour into the walk, we finally came across the Batoka river and Charles explained how the river is by the local people. For instance, he explained how the women would come down to the river to do the laundry, how the water pump was often a Friday night “date” location, and how groups of neighboring families can work together to support a garden.

    the Batoka River where the washing takes place
    The water pump, which we got to use!
    CSA, Zimbabwe style

    As we walked, the Batoka River started dropping down to where it meets the Zambezi River, so we continued along the gorge that formed. The walk itself was peaceful and it was a nice change of pace to actually be able to be outside for a few hours and moving, instead of just sitting in a vehicle.

    where the Batoka River meets the Zambezi

    At the conclusion of our walk, we were picked up by our driver and taken to the home where we would be having lunch. In fairness, I was surprised as the description on the website suggested we would be visiting a “village.” I had no idea we would actually be visiting a single Ndebele homestead. Nevertheless, Charles was quick to put us at ease. He introduced us to the woman of the house and her children (the head of the house was not present), and we were given a tour of the homestead.

    the outdoor kitchen
    dishes drying
    we ate our lunch on these benches
    We met the livestock, of course!
    wood storage and general gardening area
    the formal sitting area where Charles explained to us how dowries are negotiated
    chicken, potatoes, stew

    While we were touring the homestead, our driver was busy cooking a traditional meal for us using the outdoor kitchen. After we finished lunch, we thanked our guests and were driven back to our hotel.

    I really enjoyed the Batoka Hike and Ndebele Village Tour. This was the highlight, for me, of our stay in Zimbabwe. It was an opportunity to see the non-commercial/tourist side of Zimbabwe and we learned a lot about how the local people live. Charles told us everything about how schools are funded, how families arrange marriages, how the Ndebele culture does not use money but instead trades in livestock… Although the website says that the minimum age to participate is 15, I would think this tour appropriate for children as old at 8. I would recommend reaching out to Shearwater prior to booking and perhaps, if they are unable to book you for the full tour, it would be possible to just arrange for the homestead visit. I know my son would benefit tremendously from seeing how other people and cultures live and this would be a fantastic opportunity to show him something that we would have difficulty experiencing otherwise.

    Victoria Falls National Park

    The entrance to Victoria Falls or Mosi-Oa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders)

    It’s safe to say that the only reason we visited Victoria Falls was to see the Falls itself. It’s not the tallest or the widest, but it is the largest (by volume) and does not disappoint. We were picked up from our hotel by another Shearwater guide and although it was not a private tour that we booked, we were the only two people on the tour that afternoon so we lucked out.

    Our guide was knowledgeable and well versed in the history of the falls and provided us with some general background information about the discovery of the falls by David Livingstone and the measures that have been taken by the local government to secure the area around the falls.

    As we entered the Park where it was located, we stopped to view the Baobab tree:

    The tree was impressive in its girth and we were invited to get out of the car and take photos. Our guide warned us, prior to stopping the car, however, not to be alarmed by the men who would jump out of the bushes and surround us with wares that they were hoping to sell. He was right – the minute our car doors opened, men appeared, seemingly out of nowhere, asking us to purchase wooden animal figurines, carved bowls, etc. Our guide explained that these informal vendors are not permitted in the Park, so they hide until unsuspecting customers appear.

    After the Baobab tree, we continued to wind our way over to the Park’s entrance where we paid our entrance fee of $30 per person to enter (credit cards accepted). Upon entry, we stopped for the bathroom and took in the educational signs, before starting down the Path towards the Falls.

    A map of the 16 stops along the walking path.

    The Park is organized so that you walk along the Falls, with a total of 16 different planned stops as possible areas of interest. The first stop was, not surprisingly, a statute of Dr. Livingstone.

    Before you even see the Falls, you hear them and feel them. The sheer amount of water flowing into the Falls, especially while we were there, was overpowering at times, requiring us to wear rain ponchos and tuck our cameras away.

    My husband and our guide at the edge of the Falls.

    The walking tour of the Falls was a fun way to spend the afternoon and although you do not need a guide, I was happy to have one. Our guide not only came equipped with ponchos, but was also able to warn us about certain things, such as a slippery/moss covered rocks that we decided not to walk on, sticking to the path instead.

    The rocks were wet and slippery and covered with a mossy substance. Without a security fence, we opted to stay on the path.

    Overall, the tour of the Falls took about an hour. Although the Falls were incredibly wet when we visited, thus obscuring our view, the sheer force of the Falls was something to behold. I would not, however, recommend the Falls to those with toddlers or other young children unless you are prepared to hold onto them very firmly or stick to the paths in a stroller. Not only were there no fences along the drops, but there were thorny fences that marked the paths.

    the natural fencing along the walk ways
    mossy, wet rocks

    The Lookout Cafe

    The Lookout Cafe is owned by Wild Horizons (the major tour operator in Vic Falls) and offers an ideal location for viewing the Falls while you relax with a cold beer or snacks. Although we were visiting between lunch and dinner, the cafe was well staffed and there was a good group of other tourists, mingling and enjoying the view.

    The view of the Zambezi River from the main dining area of The Lookout Cafe.

    Would I visit with kids?

    With young children, I can say, without hesitation, that my answer is “no.” I would not visit Victoria Falls with young children for a number of reasons – one, there’s not a whole lot to do in Victoria Falls that is kid friendly and most of the adventures we looked into have minimum age requirements, including the Batoka Gorge hike! If you have children eight and under, you likely won’t be looking at white water rafting down the Zambezi, hang gliding, bungee jumping, or any number of high adrenalin activities that Victoria Falls is famous for.

    I also would not recommend Victoria Falls as a place to visit with young children because the panhandlers are extremely aggressive. Although I have traveled the United States and many parts of the world, I have never felt more uncomfortable than in Zimbabwe where a man asked me for change and after I politely declined, he requested that I give him my socks… During one stop to purchase souvenirs for our children, we were also uncomfortable to learn that the vendors had no change among them – so we were put in the awkward position of having bargained the price down to $27 only to learn that we had $30 and they did not have three $1 bills. After this experience, I attempted to break the $20 bills I had by using them at The Lookout Cafe and at our hotel, but none were able to give us much, if any, change in the form of small bills.

    Friends who visited Zimbabwe after us learned the hard way that you must bring cash with you into Zimbabwe as there simply isn’t enough cash to go around. ATMs were not an option and Zimbabweans wait in line daily to see a banking associate and are limited to withdrawing $20 a day after paying a withdrawal fee. Suffice it to say, when your five star accommodation can’t make change for you, it’s hard to be comfortable knowing the level of poverty you’re surrounded by.

    All that being said, Victoria Falls strikes me as the perfect location to visit for a high school or college graduation trip. A short glance at the Wild Horizons or Shearwater Adventures website will reveal tons of activities for thrill seeking adventurers. And, if you do find yourself in Victoria Falls with young children, I highly recommend engaging the services of one of the tour companies. Not only did we learn a lot during our Ndebele Village tour, but the professionalism among both guides was second-to-none and I also noticed that the locals were less likely to accost us when out and about with a guide.