We Go With Kids!

Tag: wildlife

  • Best Things to Do in South Africa With Kids

    Best Things to Do in South Africa With Kids

    South Africa is a country rich in history, culture and wildlife. No matter what your interests, you and your family will find a life changing adventure to embark upon here. Whether it be spotting the Big 5 in the Kruger National Park or hiking up Cape Town’s iconic Table Mountain, there are so many things to do in South Africa with kids.  Mark and Mila, the dynamic duo behind Mountain IQ, are avid mountain hikers and, as native of South Africa, Mark is here to share his invaluable list of Top Five Family Friendly Activities in South Africa.

    Top Things To Do in South Africa

    #1: Hike the Challenging and Beautiful Table Mountain in Capetown

    View from the top of Table Mountain

    When you think of things to do in Cape Town, it’s likely that the first thing that comes to mind is Table Mountain – Cape Town’s number one tourist attraction. But there are so many different trails you and your family can choose to go up the mountain.

    The trails are of varying lengths and difficulty.  If you have younger children it may be better to take the cable car to the top and then walk across the top of the mountain to Maclean’s Beacon.  This is a relatively short walk, but it offers spectacular views of the city and the Atlantic Ocean.   If you are planning on taking the cable car, be sure to book in advance to skip the lines. Since the Table Mountain cable car is such a popular attraction, it is also worth getting there early to avoid the crowds. Children under four can ride for free! 

    If your children are slightly older, you can take the popular Platteklip Gorge or the Skeleton Gorge Trails, amongst many others. Make sure to pack lots of snacks, water and cover up to protect yourselves from the dangerous local sun. 

    The views from the Table Mountain summit are incredible, you may even be lucky enough to spot a dassie, which are small mammals that live in the rocks and are simple adorable.  There is also a restaurant atop the mountain for you and our family to get refreshments once you have completed your hike.

    Cape Town is known to have unpredictable weather, so check the weather forecast to avoid being stuck in the wind, rain or fog. The fog is what gives the mountain its name – when the clouds descend on it, they make it look like a tablecloth.  If you are planning a few more adventures around the region, here are some more great hikes around Africa.

    Find out more about Cape Town.

     

    #2: Enjoying the Adorable and Happy Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach in Capetown

    Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach

    Boulders Beach is located 40 minutes outside of Cape Town and offers the unique opportunity to see a large number of wild African Penguins.  You and your family can spend the day watching these adorable creatures frolic amongst the waves at this beautiful beach, and, if you are brave enough to hop into the frigid Atlantic Ocean, you can even take a swim with the penguins.  Although, it may be prudent to rent a bodysuit to enjoy the experience more.

    It is important to remember that although cute, the penguins are still wild animals, and you absolutely should not touch them as they have razor sharp beaks and will defend themselves if they feel threatened.  The penguins call Boulders Beach home all year round, but South African summer (November till March) is the best time to visit to see them in large numbers. If visiting in January, you may even get to see some baby penguins moulting on the beach!

    In order to gain access to the boardwalks, which is the best spot to view the penguins, there is a small conservation fee.  Individuals who are not citizens of South Africa pay a bit more, but at ~$11 for adults and ~$6 for children, it is well worth the expense. For information on fees for all South African parks, visit this official site.

     

    #3: Mesmerizing Wildlife of the Kruger National Park 

    Kruger Lion

    Everyone dreams of going on an African Safari, and what better place to go than the Kruger National Park? With nearly 2.2 million hectares of diverse South African landscapes, the Kruger National Park is the most famous wildlife reserve in South Africa and arguably in the world. 

    The wildlife in the park is plentiful, and visitors are almost most guaranteed to see all of the Big 5 most dangerous animals – buffalo, elephant, rhino, lion, and leopard. There are a number of options for accommodation, whether you are looking to camp or perhaps even enjoy the luxury of a private game lodge, where game rangers take guests on game drives where they explain the local game and wildlife.  Summers in the Kruger can get pretty hot, so it may be worth finding accommodation with a pool, in order to cool down during the day. 

    Find out more about Kruger National Park.

     

    #4: Inspiring Whale Watching in Hermanus 

    Hermanus Waves

    Hermanus, a once small fishing town located 90 minutes from Cape Town, is a great spot to take the family whale watching. The World Wildlife Fund (WWF) has voted Hermanus as one of the 12 best whale watching destinations in the world. The Telegraph also named Hermanus as one of the best destinations worldwide to watch marine mammals.

    The best time to go whale watching is between July and November with the months of September, October and November being the absolute best time. This is the period when the Southern Right Whales begin mating.   Hermanus’s famous Whale Watching Festival also takes place in September, when the normally quiet town becomes bustling with tourists eager to get a glimpse of these spectacular creatures.   Visitors can choose to whale watch from land, boat or even a scenic flight. Those who are feeling particularly brave can even rent a kayak and paddle around Walker Bay as the whales breach, but be prepared to get wet along the way! 

    Sea sickness can also be an issue for those who have never been kayaking in an active ocean before. So consider taking first timers on a taster ride before the adventure and, if needed, you can purchase anti-motion sickness pills, which need to be taken two hours in advance.

    #5: Educational Visit to the Cradle of Humankind

    The Protea Flower: The National Flower of South Africa

    For those looking for something a little more educational, the Cradle of Humankind is a fantastic option that will be enjoyed by both adults and children.   The Cradle of Humankind is one of South Africa’s 8 World Heritage Sites. The main attractions are Maropeng and the Sterkfontein Caves, located just a short one hour drive outside of bustling Johannesburg. 

    It is here where humankind is believed to have originated. Look around the exhibitions in Maropeng and then travel down into the Sterkfontein caves where there are excavation sites as well as an underground lake. Caves’ tour is an amazing experience, and it is actually better for kids, as they fit into narrow passages much easier than adults and will most probably find those the most fun! 

    There are plenty of things to see and kids will definitely remain entertained the entire day. After working up an appetite, there is a variety of restaurants in the area for refueling.  Tickets to access both Maropeng and the Sterkfontein Caves are ~$8 for adults, ~$5 for children between 4 -14, and free for children under 4 years.

    Nancy’s Note: South Africa is near and dear to my heart as it is where my husband and I chose to celebrate our 10 year anniversary (without kids).  It’s also the vacation that spurred the creation of We Go With Kids!  

  • Perth, Australia With Kids

    Perth, Australia With Kids

    Guest Blogger: Clayton is a writer, editor, and devoted family man. A proud husband, father, and grandfather, Clayton enjoys running and cycling in his spare time and is also devoted to supporting literacy and arts programs in his hometown of Worthington, Ohio. To learn more about Clayton, visit his website, Clay Writes.

    On a two-week trip to “The Land Down Under” this past July, my wife and I had the opportunity to observe and learn, finding new things to love before returning to our home in Worthington, Ohio. As an Australian Aboriginal Proverb affirms:

    “We are all visitors to this time, this place…Our purpose here is to observe, to learn, to grow, to love and then we return home.”

    Prior to departure, we alerted our bank that we would be traveling overseas, so they wouldn’t hold up any credit card transactions on suspicion of theft. Each credit card purchase carried an “international transaction fee” (the largest of these was $3.23). We also secured $300 in Australian cash, which cost about $245 in American currency.

    Nine days of our two-week trip were spent in Perth, located on Australia’s southwest coast. Perth ended up being an excellent place to have a multi-generational family gathering with my daughter and son-in-law and their three children, ages seven, five, and two. I say “excellent” not only because Perth is relatively close to their home in Bandung, Indonesia, but also because Perth is an exceptionally kid-friendly city.

    Things to Do:

    #1: Kings Park and Botanic Garden:

    Kings Park and Botanic Garden is not only rich in Aboriginal and European history, but also happens to be one of the world’s largest and most beautiful inner-city parks. We enjoyed our first visit to this park so much that we ended up coming back for a second visit! On our first visit, we took a short hike across an elevated walkway that led us past beautiful flowers and towering treetops. At different points, we had panoramic views of Perth’s skyline and the surrounding waters. We also spent some time admiring the Pioneer Women’s Memorial, a bronze sculpture of a woman and infant surrounded by sparkling fountains.

    Pioneer Women’s Memorial Fountain

    From the Memorial, we visited a children’s discovery play area, just one of many such areas devoted to young ones within the park. My seven- and five-year-old grandchildren had a ball wading in a small pond with other kids, while their two-year-old little brother happily splashed. A small, rocky stream fed into the pond, and I noticed older children using the rocks to build a dam. The play area also featured tunnels; some resembled culverts but others would be better described as climbing tunnels, which require the participant to ascend and then descend a rough-hewn staircase before emerging at the end.

    Pro-Tip: If you’re prone to back or knee problems, I highly recommend that you wait for your children at the tunnel’s end rather than attempting to follow your kids through the tunnel!

    After the kids enjoyed their fill of climbing and wading, we enjoyed a hearty lunch at a nearby cafe. On our way out, I took a moment to study the memorial to the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (“ANZAC”) troops who fought and died in WWI. The granite obelisk stands across from an eternal flame with an inscription asking people to “Let Silent Contemplation Be Your Offering.”

    Eternal Flame with State War Memorial

    source

    On our return visit to Kings Park, I again visited the State War Memorial and noticed the names of the fallen ANZAC soldiers inscribed on the wall below and behind the obelisk. The kids again enjoyed wading in the pond and frolicking at the large playground near the park’s entrance. This playground also had tunnels, though not of the climbing kind, as well as a tire swing with an unusually wide arc. While the kids played, little kookaburras flitted about, sometimes coming within just a few feet of visitors.

    Kookaburras near one the Garden’s play areas

    #2: Perth Zoo

    We were fortunate that the Perth Zoo was within walking distance of our rental home. Due to its proximity, we were able to spend a weekday morning at the zoo, come home for lunch, and then return for about two hours in the afternoon. We did not have to pay admission on our return visit – we simply showed our receipt for the morning admission.

    As one would expect, the zoo features a number of animals unique to Australia, including koalas, dingoes, wallabies, kangaroos, wombats, and numbats. The numbats are new to me – these marsupials, with deer-like facial features and white stripes crossing their black/brown fur, dwell in woodlands of Western Australia, and each one eats upwards of 20,000 termites per day.

    The zoo organizes many of its animals according to habitat. The native animals were mostly found in the Australian Wetlands and Australian Bushwalk sections, and the African Savannah featured zebras, baboons, and a radiated tortoise. The Asian Rainforest held gibbons, Asian elephants, and Komodo dragons, while Bolivian squirrel monkeys, golden lion tamarins, and South American coatis could be found in the Amazonia section. Not all sections of the zoo were organized according to geography, however. The Nocturnal House covered a wide range of animals – bats, toads, spiders, and owls (to name a few) — all “creatures of the night.” And, the Primate Trail held lemurs, marmosets, tamarins, and other small primates mostly from Madagascar or the Amazon Rainforest.

    sleeping koala

    Of the animals we saw, I was most impressed by the painted dogs in the African Savannah. Their sleek, black, orange and white fur could have been designed by an artist and they moved with a distinctively graceful style. We learned these animals are highly effective predators and their hunts have a 90% success rate, better than either lions or cheetahs. Sadly, like so many other wild animals, the painted dogs are an endangered species.

    Pro-Tip: The zoo has a playground with ladders, bridges, and two slides (including a tunnel slide). There is also a carousel, which provides a more relaxing form of entertainment for children (and parents) after wearing themselves out on the playground. The carousel, however, only operates from 11am-3pm on most days.

    #3: Caversham Wildlife Park

    Located several miles outside of downtown Perth in Whitman Park, Caversham Wildlife Park is the perfect complement to the Perth Zoo as it provides families with the opportunity to have close-up encounters with wildlife. Although there are fewer animal species at the Wildlife Park, we noticed herds of kangaroos hopping free across hundreds of acres of open range just on the drive to the park. Once we were inside the park itself, we were nearly nose-to-nose with echidnas, llamas, koalas, wombats, pythons, possums, and any number of birds. We all enjoyed the opportunity to pet a koala and the kids had their pictures taken with a husky-looking wombat. We also encountered an Australian brushtail possum, which, with its darker fur, bigger ears, and thicker tail, does not much resemble its North American counterpart.

    cockatoo at the animal park’s indoor pavilion

    After getting acquainted with some of the park’s animals, we attended a farm show, which took place in an indoor pavilion. The show began with a demonstration of a sheep dog, controlling the movement of sheep so that they ended up in a pen. The show was followed by a sheep-shearing demonstration with a man, who was clearly a pro, wielding electric clippers swiftly, yet carefully. As large slabs of wool fell to the floor, the sheep struggled but uttered no cries of pain. According to the man, an experienced handler can shear over 200 sheep a day using electric clippers! Previously, only 60 or so sheep could be sheared in one day with manual clippers. Later in the show, volunteers in the audience were given the opportunity to try their hand at cracking whips and bottle-feeding lambs and, at the very end, anyone who wished could milk an artificial cow. My granddaughter took a turn, with her brother abstaining!

    Granddaughter about to feed a wallaby

    When we finished with the farm program, we entered what appeared to be a kangaroo-wallaby sanctuary where kids could feed the animals food obtained from special machines. This seemed like fun and it mostly was, but be advised that because the animals are fed with such frequency, they often aren’t interested in snacking. My granddaughter had to go to several different kangaroos and wallabies before finding one that was halfway interested in the food she offered!

    Volunteer snuggling with a wombat!

    #4: Scitech Discovery Centre

    If your children enjoy science, then Scitech Discovery Centre is a good place to take them, but get there early.  We arrived only a few minutes after the 9:30 opening, and within an hour the place was packed. We visited on a weekday, but evidently some schools were on winter break, leading to larger-than-normal crowds. Still, my family found much to like about Scitech, which is located near downtown Perth. The hands-on displays give children a chance to make science happen right in front of their eyes. Phenomena such as magnetism, gravity, electricity, sound waves, air pressure, and reflection become real, not just concepts in a textbook. But for my grandchildren, fun more than science was the order of the day. My grandson and I enjoyed building a makeshift parachute with string and a coffee filter and then testing it in a wind tunnel. My granddaughter had a great time using a pulley to elevate herself on a chair, while our toddler kept himself busy dropping colored balls into an interactive probability device. There was a special show at the museum’s planetarium, but the long line made us decide against attending. We did see a puppet show on animal and plant nutrition that featured a human performer interacting with different puppet characters and occasionally with members of the audience.  

    Final Thoughts?

    My only regret is that Australia in general and Perth, in particular, are so far from my home in central Ohio, otherwise, I’d be planning a return trip already! If I do venture to the “Land Down Under” again, I am definitely not flying economy. To be sure, my wife and I were treated well on all of our flights, including the 17-hour odyssey from Dallas to Sydney. But sleeping upright with minimal leg room just does not agree with my over-60-year-old body and I would like to feel like a human being next time, instead of a boomerang! That said, Perth was a great place for a multi-generational family visit. Not only were there a number of family-friendly activities for kids and adults of all ages, but the amount of wildlife and the opportunities to get up close and personal were a real treat.

  • Spotlight: Silver Springs State Park (Ocala, FL) With Kids!

    Spotlight: Silver Springs State Park (Ocala, FL) With Kids!

    Everyone the world over knows Orlando, Florida, home to Disney World & Universal Studios. Most people are vaguely aware of Legoland, located about an hour outside of Orlando. And, if you’re a baseball fan, you’re familiar with Winter Haven, home of Major League Baseball’s spring training facility for years. But, few have heard of Ocala, a mid-sized city located just 90 minutes north of Orlando International Airport. If you’re looking to get away from major amusement parks and explore some of the more natural side of things, Ocala is an easy drive from Orlando and Silver Springs State Park is a wonderful way to get outside in ‘gator country!

    Silver Spring State Park, gateway to the Ocala National Forest, is home to a number of activities for adventure goers. A portion of the Park used to comprise the Silver Springs Zoological Park, which my family visited in February 2011 when my oldest was not quite two, but the Zoo has now closed and the Park is fully managed by the state.

    waiting for our boat ride
    checking out the ‘gators (note the plexiglass barrier!)

    The Park is open from 8:00 am to sundown, 365 days a year and admission is only $8 per vehicle. There are rental pavilions, if you want to throw a party or a family reunion, along with campsites and rental cabins. Activities include glass bottom boat tours, canoe and kayak rentals, and you can even arrange for a guided horseback trail ride via Cactus Jack’s Trail Rides. Although we have enjoyed canoeing the Silver River, my personal favorite activity is the glass bottom boat tour, which is free for children under six years of age. Visit the Park’s website for full information, including hours and updated fees and check our Silver River State Park if you want to get up close and personal with the ‘gators!

    Every so often, we encounter a place that is so fabulous for those traveling with kids that it is worthy of being featured on its own. For more fabulous locations, please check out our other Spotlight features!

  • Visiting Malaysia With Kids: A Sabah Family Blog

    Visiting Malaysia With Kids: A Sabah Family Blog

    Guest Blogger: Melanie, her husband, and two kids are traveling the world from South Africa to Vietnam. Together, they’ve visited eight countries, with many more planned. Accompany them on their adventure on Instragram and YouTube.

    Sabah is a Malaysian state, located in the northern portion of Borneo Island. Sabah shares a land border with the Malaysian state of Sarawak as well as Indonesia’s Kalimantan and shares maritime borders with Vietnam and the Philippines. Sabah’s earliest human settlement can be traced back 20,000-30,000 years, and its trading relationship with China dates to the 14th century. Because of its location, Sabah is notably diverse in both ethnicity, culture, and language.  We recommend a Sabah family trip to anyone visiting Malaysia with kids.

    photo credit

    My family and I already planned to be in Malaysia, so we decided that no trip to Malaysia would be complete without spending at least a few days in Sabah. Intra-Asia flights are relatively inexpensive, thus making travel so much more affordable. We flew from Kuala Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia, into Kuching where we relied almost entirely on public transit and the ride hailing service Grab (a car service similar to Uber) to get around. Although the rules vary depending on which passport you hold, we were granted 90-days visa-free entry to Malaysia, which was also valid for traveling to Borneo, the island on which Sabah is located.

    With limited time and a limited budget, we narrowed our trip down to four primary destinations to add to any Sabah family trip itinerary.

    #1: Kota Kinabalu

    Picture from Kota Kinabalu family trip blog

    Kota Kinabalu is the capital of Sabah and where we chose to start our journey. Known by locals as “KK,” we loved walking from the marlin statute to the KK Central Market, which is located on the busy waterfront. The Central Market is lined with displays of the most amazing fresh seafood, which can be prepared at the onsite restaurant. My family and I were able to do this, and we highly recommend it.

    The marlin statute that marks the entrance to KK Central Market.
    KK Central Market

    The Central Market graduates into a Handicraft Market, formerly known as the Filipino Market. The Filipino Market is extremely busy and full of activity, but can be claustrophobic when extremely busy. Overall, this was a wonderful stop for us and we loved experiencing the true culture.

    The KK waterfront

    The KK Waterfront itself has a variety of upmarket restaurants to pick and choose from. Although not as local an experience as the Central Market, we enjoyed the lovely view from the waterfront with a sundowner.

    If you are in KK on Sunday, the Gaya Street Sunday Market is not to be missed. The market closes early (13h00), so go early for the best selection of cheap buys and good food.

    Gaya Street Market

    KK BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS:

    Hotel Tourist – great location, close to Gaya Street and within walking distance to the waterfront.

    Switz Paradise Hotel – set in an old shopping mall, but clean and close to the waterfront.

    We stayed at both the Hotel Tourist and the Switz Paradise Hotels. The rooms are very basic, but clean and comfortable and located in the town center (thus minimizing the need for walking and car sharing services). Our entire family shared only one room, but since we were out and about most of the time, we only needed a comfortable and clean place to sleep. I was happy to be able to book our reservations in advance online.

    #2: Mount Kinabalu

    Mount Kinabalu is a world heritage site and the highest mountain in Malaysia with a height of 4,095 meters! We made the trip to see Mount Kinabalu by renting a car and driving about one hour from Kota Kinabalu. If you are able to spend the night, wake up EARLY to see the mountain in all her glory as the mist sets in around 10am, thus obscuring the view. The weather gets chilly at night, so pack jackets. Although a hike up the mountain is challenging and NOT suitable for kids, we were able to take advantage of the surrounding jungle around the base of the mountain, and took a morning hike on one of several trails. If you are not comfortable renting a car, there is a tour bus that will take you on a day excursion.

    MOUNT KINABALU BUDGET ACCOMMODATION:

    Crystal Hill: We were able to book a room with a balcony and the most amazing view of Mount Kinabalu. Our reservations were booked online in advance of our arrival and the hotel provided free WiFi and also had a serviceable restaurant. It was approximately 15 minutes driving time away from the entrance of Mount Kinabalu and the main hiking trails.

     

    #3: Kokol Hill

    From Mount Kinabalu, we did a road trip to Kokol Hill, a city set on a hilltop with the most amazing views of Kota Kinabalu and Mount Kinabalu. Kokol Hill was approximately 2.5 hours away from Mount Kinabalu by car, but it is a beautiful place to stop and enjoy the view.

    KOKOL BUDGET ACCOMMODATION:

    Our balcony at Kokol Haven Resort

    Kokol Haven Resort – We spent one night at the Kokol Haven Resort, which is set on a hilltop with the most spectacular views.  They have the best pizza that we have had in the whole of Malaysia and a lovely restaurant overlooking Kota Kinabalu on one side and mountains on the other side. The hotel was very secluded, with no other shops or attractions nearby.

    #4: Kinabatangan River

    The Kinabatangan River is Malaysia’s longest river. There are cabins nestled in the woods amongst pygmy elephants, orangatuns, and proboscis monkeys. There are a number of attractions available – guided night walk in the forest, overnight camping in the forest with the sounds of the jungle. You can also take a river cruise during the day and see the proboscis monkeys fall from branch to branch as well as the airborne flying lizards. This is definitely a place for nature lovers and adventurers but be forewarned: no hot showers! Our kids absolutely loved the rainforest, which was very kid friendly and save – we encountered no snakes! We used the public bus system to get to Kinabatangan from Kota Kinabalu and the trip took about 7 hours. We were able to book our bus tickets online, but hotels are also very helpful in assisting with bus schedules and bookings, so ask if you have questions!

    KINABATANGAN RIVER BUDGET ACCOMMODATION:

    Tungog Rainforest Eco Camp – The camp offers numerous packages that you can tailor to your liking. There are several different activities to choose from and a guide can be included during your stay. The food at the camp was fantastic and our guide provided us with a lot of information about Sabah’s wildlife.

    Travel Tips:

    • We typically relied on public transportation, including the bus system, which is extremely organized and easy to use and can also transport you to nearby national parks. While in Kota Kinabalu, we used Grab to get to places that were not near our hotel, but did rent a car to travel to the mountains when we wanted to escape the crowds.
    • For currency, we found it best to withdraw money from ATMs, which we found nearly everywhere.
    • Of the Asian countries we have visited, Malaysia is the country with the best English and thus, we had no language barriers whatsoever.

    We really enjoyed our stay in Sabah. We were welcomed with open arms, and we learned so much about the culture and the food. We would definitely recommend visiting Sabah with kids. There are so many more places to explore in and around Sabah, which we did not get to this time, but hopefully will another time!

    We hope you enjoyed Melanie and her Sabah travel blog as much as we did!

    Pin it to Pinterest!

     

     

  • France: Hiking the Vosges Mountains With Kids!

    France: Hiking the Vosges Mountains With Kids!

    Guest Blogger:  Ophélie is originally from France but moved to Belgium from McLean, Virginia five years ago.  She and her husband have found that kids didn’t have to stop them from doing what they love.  Instead, they shared their passion for travel and the outdoors with their young son and daughter. Ophélie can be found on Instragram and Facebook.

    A hike in the Vosges in France with a donkey may not be a typical family vacation, but it was an absolutely amazing adventure that we encourage others to consider.  A decade ago (time flies), my now-husband and I went for a hiking trip in the Vosges mountains in eastern France. We loved the relaxing feeling of peace and freedom inherent to this region. Unlike the Alps and the Pyrenees, the Vosges are low mountains that culminate at 1,424 meters (4,672 feet) and are still exempt of any mass tourism. The mountains are characterized by the rounded shape of their peaks, called the ballons, which give them their peculiar softness. An immense forest covers 60% of the mountains and features mostly conifers. Yet, this quiet mountain offers a variety of landscapes, including lakes, wet and high altitude meadows, deep valleys, waterfalls, cliffs and rocks. The Vosges are the perfect place for a breath of fresh air and a paradise for outdoor and nature lovers.

    This summer we decided to hike in Vosges again and share this experience with our two children, who are 6 and 7 years old! To make the experience even more exciting and memorable, we decided to rent a donkey! More and more farms in France offer donkey-renting options. After some online research, we chose La Ferme Prés en Bulles, a few miles away from the city of Gerardmer. They offer many alternatives from half-day rentals to all-included tours with nights in country inns and half-board. Because we wanted to completely unplug from every-day life, we chose the bivouac, a temporary / wild camping option, that gave us three days of total freedom! Our trip included hiking, backpacking and wild camping through the Vosges forest as a family, with kids, dog and donkey (not talking about my husband this time)! It was a first for us, and we LOVED it! Here is our experience.

    Planning the Trip: an Adventure by Itself

    As always, packing is exciting! We involved the kids very much so that they were part of the whole adventure. We weighed everything to not overload our brave donkey! With only two small tents, four sleeping bags, camping stove, headlights, a small toiletry and safety kit, a map, limited clothing, food and water for 3 days – no toys or cosmetics, we were ready to go. It was both a fun and interesting experience for the kids to decide what were the essentials!

    D-day: Meeting our Donkey

    Hidden along the small, meandering roads of the Vosges mountains, we found the farm where we met Marie and Deil, the donkey owners. They introduced us to our donkey, Brimbelle (which means “blueberry” in the Vosgian dialect). For 30 minutes, the donkey-owners taught us how to take care of Brimbelle. They showed us how to gently curry-comb, brush, clean out the donkey’s hooves and how to place the packsaddle! They helped prepare the itinerary on the map and indicated the narrow trail sections that cannot be used. We saddled up Brimbelle, loaded the bags and were on our way!

    Hiking with Brimbelle was an awesome experience! We hiked about 10 kilometers (6 miles) each day, so 30 kilometers (18 miles) in total across forest, fields and villages. Donkeys are awesome travel companions, and Brimbell added a new dimension to the hiking adventure by motivating our children to hike along. Steady and gentle animals, donkeys bring a very relaxing and secure feeling. Our 6 year old daughter, who is usually super active, spent hours walking calmly alongside Brimbelle and cuddling her in the evening. Even our very energetic 1 year old Australian shepherd, Perle, seemed to be calmed by the presence of Brimbelle. Donkeys must have some magical soothing powers!

    Wild camping in Vosges

    The bivouac option offered us a lot of flexibility, so we did not plan in advance where we were going to spend the nights. We adjusted to everyone’s tiredness and began to look for a place to camp mid-afternoon, so we would have time to rest and play before the sun went down. We took time to look for a nice spot, so that each evening we could enjoy the sunset over the pine forest or the valley! We also looked each time for a place near a water source so that we could easily get water for Brimbelle and Perle. I loved to see how the kids felt responsible for the animals, taking care of them, bringing them water and always looking for the best spot of green grass for Brimbelle to graze!

    Wild camping with kids is an amazing experience for so many reasons. Being in the forest at night with no one else for miles around is exhilarating. Experiencing the total silence except from the wind and wildlife is priceless. Inevitably, it is a bit harder work than campsite camping. You have to walk in, plan more, pack enough food, and find a good spot – all the while staying safe, but it is a great family challenge. We made special memories that will last for a lifetime.

    Good to Know

    The law about wild camping in France is quite confusing (Article R111-33 and R111-34). However, in most French national and regional parks, free camping is tolerated from sunset to sunrise or from 19h to 9h (7 pm until 9 am) in a small tent in which you cannot stand. Fires are forbidden, but the use of camping stone is sometimes tolerated. Regulations are subject to change or interpretation depending on the region, the season, and the local habits. Make sure to check before going or ask the donkey-owners. They are amazing resources!

    Hiking with a donkey in numbers:

    • Donkeys can carry nearly 30-40 kilograms (65-90 pounds). They can carry small children of 3-6 years old if needed.
    • Donkeys walk steadily at a pace of 3 to 4 kilometers/hour (1.8 to 2.4 miles/hour)
    • Donkeys reasonably walk up to 12 kilometers (7.5 miles) per day
    • A 1/25,000 map of the area is a necessity, whether you buy one beforehand or purchase one from the donkey-owners.

    Renting a donkey costs 38€ ($44) per day. Prices may of course vary depending on the owners and the hiking region. Renting a donkey is becoming a popular added value of any family hike everywhere in France, with almost 300 professional donkey-owners registered. If you love animals and nature, that is an amazing way to discover the French countryside, slowly and peacefully! Either you choose the all-included option with nights in country inns, or the wild version with bivouac in the tent; travelling with a donkey is a truly unique family adventure, that your children are unlikely to forget!

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  • Kids’ Blog: Iceland

    Kids’ Blog: Iceland

    Guest Author:  Our kid blogger, Messi Jr., is a nine year old fourth grader who loves travel and soccer.

    My Iceland trip was awesome.

    Iceland Day 1

    On day one, as soon as my family and I got to the Icelandic airport, everyone was wide awake because we slept the whole flight.  When we got out of the airport, it was very cold and rainy.  My family and I got on the bus that would take us to a place that we would get a rental car.

    On the bus, I saw two strange things.  The first thing that was strange was that out of the window I saw rocks.  Some were the size of pebbles and others were the size of cars.  The rocks were all different shapes, but many were the size of backpacks. There seemed to be millions. And, there were planes and planes of them.  But, they were covered in something.  I didn’t know what it was so I asked my dad what it was, and he said it was moss.  I thought it was very strange, but I could believe it when I saw it.  The other thing I wondered about was the rocks.  When I looked closely, there were many holes.  I recognized it as a lava rock.  I wasn’t surprised since I knew from a book I had read about Iceland that it said that Iceland was formed by volcanos.

    Once we got off the bus, we went to a place where we rented a 4×4 car, which meant it can drive through harsh conditions.  With the car, we drove to the convenience store and bought some food that we ate at the shop for breakfast.  At the store, the Cool One and I both found coins.  The Cool One found a 1 krona coin, and I found a 2 krona coin.  Next, we went to Costco.  At Costco, we bought squeezies for my sister, water bottles for the car, Nutella to put on our bread for breakfast, and rotisserie chicken for our sandwiches.

    Before we ate lunch, we went to the lava tunnel, but the noon tour was full.  For lunch, we went to a nearby town and picked up some very yummy pizza, which we ate in the car heading toward the lava tunnel.  In the lava tunnel, we had to wear headlamps so we could see around the tunnel.  We learned that before headlamps and flashlights, all people saw in the tunnel was pitch black.  The only way you could see was from small holes on the roof.  We also learned that lava once rushed through the tunnel.  My sister was the youngest person to ever go in the tunnel.

    The next thing that we did was we drove, well we tried to drive to Kerid crater, but we drove into another crater.  In that crater, there were many lava rocks. We could also see all the layers of the crater.

    The next stop was Kerid crater.  The cool thing about Kerid is that the deep crater has a lake at the bottom of it.  My dad also said that Kerid was formed 6,500 years ago.  On our way to the apartment, my brother, sister and I took a nap in the car.  I thought that I had slept for the whole night!  We watched some TV, but it was only in Icelandic, so we didn’t understand a thing.  We tried to take a shower, but the drain was plugged, so that made it pretty challenging.  The day ended with everyone having a good night sleep.

    Iceland Day 2

    Once everyone had woken up and dressed up, we went to Seljalandfoss, which is a famous waterfall because you can walk behind it.  Seljalandfoss is a very tall waterfall.  When my family and I walked behind it, we got soaked, but it was worth it because it was amazing.

    As we were driving to Skogafoss, we saw Eyjafalljokul, which is a volcano that erupted a few days after my brother was born, which delayed my grandma from flying back to England.
     
    Once we were at Skogafoss, we saw a huge waterfall, and when the water hit the river it had been forming, mist shot up and formed a huge circle.
    We also saw a huge glacier that turned out to be the biggest glacier outside of the North and South Poles.
     
    In a bird sanctuary, we saw a few puffins.
     
    At Renisjfara beach, the sand was black!  It wasn’t just normal sand, it was volcanic sand!  We also saw a lot of basalt rocks.  There were also strong waves.  My brother, my dad, and I were standing about 2 yards away from where the waves end, then suddenly, a huge wave came and everyone started running, but I tripped over a big rock.  I fell down and before the wave went back in, my dad pulled me out.  I was wet, so I had to change all of my clothes.
     
    As we drove, we passed the beautiful city of Vik, but we didn’t stop.  The next place we went was Vatnajokull, which is the biggest ice cap (other than the North and South poles).  It was a very beautiful sight.
    The next stop was Jokulsaron.  One of the reasons Dad wanted to come to Iceland was to see this site.  Jokulsaron is a lake with icebergs.  The icebergs and lake come from a glacier that was constantly melting.  The ice on the beach was my favorite sight of Iceland.  On the beach, when Dad was taking a picture of my brother and me near the iceberg, as he walked backward to get a good shot of us, he tripped over ice and fell backward.  When he put his hand down to save himself, he went down so hard he broke the thick ice and hurt his hand a lot.
     
     
     We went as fast as we could to Hofn hoping to get to Hofn before the guesthouse closed.  hoped that we would make it in time so we wouldn’t have to sleep in the car.  Luckily, we just made it in time.  For dinner, we had pasta with rotisserie chicken.  Even though we tried our best to keep my sister quiet, she was still very loud.  We eventually got her quiet watching Netflix.  We had a good night of sleep.
    Iceland Day 3
    We woke up in the morning to nice blue skies, which ended up to be a nice, blue, dry, and sunny day.  We woke up so late that by the time my family woke up, everyone else in the apartment had left for the day.  My mom lost her ring that she was very sad about, but it was a good thing she found it later in the trip.  As we drove to Netto, we had an amazing view of a glacier.
    For lunch, we stopped on the side of the road where we saw a bench that overlooked the ocean.  We ate some of the food we bought at Netto.  My sister made a rock collection, which she loved and added to during the trip.  We stopped in a tourist office, and we got even more maps!  Next, we stopped on the side of the road where we saw a stream, and there was a wonderful view of everything around us.  My brother and I skipped a few rocks into the stream.
     
    As we kept driving, near a farm we passed, we saw amazing hovering birds.  My dad took a few photos of them hovering and trying to find food.

    As we kept driving along, we went into two tunnels.  One tunnel was 5 km, and the second tunnel was 6 km!  We stopped at Kronan where we got fish, fish stew, and French fries.  We spent the night in the fishing village of Eskijfordur.  We stayed in a very nice apartment.  For dinner, we had the fish and fish stew with the French fries, and we also had peas, and for dessert, we had ice cream.  But, that still wasn’t the end of the day!

    At 9:30, there was great weather as we were driving to the mine that was famous because it had the most spar crystals in the world.  We saw many animals running across the road.  Some were so close, the car could have ran over them.  Once we got to the walking path, we walked up a big hill seeing thousands and thousands of spar crystals.  The mine shaft was blocked off by the rocks, but there were still many spar crystals.  My sister, brother, and I made a huge spar crystal collection and left it on a rock.

    As we headed to our apartment, we saw the most amazing midnight sun we had seen on the whole vacation.  At end the day, we had a good night sleep.

    Iceland Day 4

    We woke up in the morning and had a quick breakfast.  We had a very quick breakfast because we wanted the maximum time at our first hot pot in Iceland.  It was a very cold day, which is the best pool weather in Iceland because every single pool is heated by natural magma and lava.  My family and I were the only people in the pool.  We all had fun on the slides, and when it was time to go, my sister didn’t want to get out.  The rest of the day all my sister wanted to do was go back in the pool.

    We had lunch in the apartment.  It was raining very heavily, and the sky was very ugly white and gray.  It was still raining, but we drove to Dettifoss, which is a popular waterfall.  On the way, we got gas and looked for reindeer, but we didn’t see a single reindeer.  Dettifoss was one of the best sites we saw in Iceland.  It is amazing how much water comes down.  My sister nearly walked the whole hike by herself to the waterfall.

    The first four days in Iceland were lots of fun.
  • A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    A Weekend in Kerala With Kids

    Our family spent three days exploring Kerala during our trip to India last year.  We spent most of our time in India visiting relatives in Bangalore but spent one long weekend in “God’s Own Country,” which is a favorite holiday destination for Prince Charles and Camilla.  Located in South India along the Arabian Sea, Kerala has been known for exporting spices such as pepper, cardamom, turmeric, cloves and ginger for at least five thousand years.  It is baffling to think of a single region known for one trade for that long and no surprise that the food is glorious.  Literally, every bite of every meal was perfection, and we loved visiting Kerala with kids.

    Why Kerala With Kids?

    We were most excited about houseboat tours through the backwaters, which are the most popular tourist attraction of the area.   These boats, traditionally called kettuvallams were originally used to transport rice and occasionally as living quarters for royalty.  The boats have more recently been converted to accommodate tourists for day and overnight leisure trips, complete with a staff to drive the boat and prepare meals.  We were also drawn to the area’s Portuguese influence.  The spice trade brought Portuguese traders to Kerala in the 15th century and paved the way for the Portuguese colonization of the area.  As a result of the Portuguese influence, Christians in Kerala comprise almost 20% of the population, compared with a mere 2.3% in the entire Indian population.

    Visiting Kerala With Kids

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the outside of India.  Arrangements for our flights, hotels, driver and houseboat tour were all made locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept electronic payment and make advance bookings for foreigners.

    Transportation in Kerala With Kids

    We hired a driver named Kiran who picked us up at the airport in Cochin (also known as Kochi) in a specially requested six-passenger vehicle and stayed with us for three days while we explored Kumarakom, Alleppey (also known as Alappuzha) and Cochin.   A private driver may seem like a major indulgence – especially on the smaller, more rural roads, but it was really a necessity on this type of trip.

    Kiran not only transported us safely from place to place but also served as our guide.  He pointed out local sights, flora, cashew nuts trees, roadside coconut stands, jewelry emporiums and even a local temple elephant.  He did not quite understand my need to take the boys to the Arabian Sea, but he took us to the beach nonetheless.  We thoroughly enjoyed our time with Kiran, who tailored our trip according to our preferences and made sure we did not miss the very best parts of Kerala.

    Kerala roadside
    Kerala’s greens and blues
    It’s not every day you see an elephant, but Kiran knew just where to find this one
    Fresh coconut water is divine

    Kumarakom and Alleppey 

    Accommodation in Kumarakom With Kids

    We spent two nights at the spectacular Vivanta by Taj – Kumarakom and absolutely loved the property.  This lakeside retreat featured luxury rooms, a private lagoon, boats, bikes, a playground and even bunnies.  The guest rooms were separate cottages situated around the lagoon, so we needed to walk through the beautifully manicured grounds to reach it.  Our room had a wonderful view of the pool, which we had to ourselves the entire stay.  Except for our houseboat excursion, we ate all our meals at the resort and generally enjoyed the activities provided by the resort, evening entertainment and scenery.

    Lagoon
    View of sunset over the lake from the resort
    Duck, duck, goose?
    Breakfast
    Pool fun

    Alleppey Houseboat Tour With Kids

    Most people travel to Alleppey to tour the backwaters on a houseboat.   Day or overnight trips are available, and we booked a five-hour tour through Lakelands Cruise.  There are a wide variety of boats, ranging from pretty basic boats to those tricked out with satellite receivers and air conditioning.   Each boat is staffed with a captain to steer and a chef who prepares traditional Keralite meals.  Even though every meal we ate in Kerala was superb, our lunch on the boat was the absolute best.

    Our boat had covered deck with a large chaise lounge swing and dining table at the front of the boat, an air-conditioned bedroom with an attached bath in the middle and a kitchen at the back.  The front was definitely not baby-proof, so we had to be careful not to let our daughter near the low railings.  I spent most of my time onboard lounging on the swing with our daughter relaxing on my lap.  We also retreated to the enclosed bedroom a few times so that she could run around.

    View out the front of the boat
    A chaise lounge swing is an amazing spot for a nap
    Another houseboat similar to ours

    While traveling the backwaters on a houseboat is pretty amazing in itself, the real excitement for us was really getting a chance to glimpse into the lives of some of the villagers who live on or near the water.  There was constant activity on the river banks as the villagers went about their lives.  We saw many locals bathing, washing clothes and utensils in the water.  For who definitely take modern plumbing for granted, watching people wash in the river is the first thing both boys remembered about this excursion.

    Washing in the river
    Washing dishes
    Doing laundry

    We also saw workers on the rice fields, children walking to or from school, people boating in the river and riding their bikes along the banks.  When we docked by a rice field, the boys got to explore the riverbank, examine the rice plants and see the various states of processing the crop goes through before rice makes it to the plate.

    Paddy field workers
    Coming home from school
    Boat transport
    Biking
    Rice

    In this region, many men wore a traditional wrap cotton sarong called a mundu.  Mundus are usually white or cream with a simple border and are worn folded by laborers and as a symbol of masculinity.  With very high temperatures while we were there, it is also a very practical attire.

    Mundu

    We also saw some beautiful birds along the river, including cranes, egrets and kingfisher birds.

    So many beautiful birds

    I admit that I thought five hours was going to be way too long to spend on the houseboat with three young kids.  At the beginning of the trip, I worried it might be an exhausting day wrangling our daughter.  Luckily, she was very happy to sit with me on the swing and thoroughly enjoyed the excursion.  I found myself more and more relaxed throughout the day and thought we could have enjoyed another hour or two when we docked. Nevertheless, I was glad that we chose not to spend the night on the houseboat with young kids and much preferred our overnight accommodations at the Taj, which were far more luxurious.

    Alleppey Beach With Kids

    On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at the Alleppey Beach .  I really wanted the kids to have a chance to see the Arabian Sea.  They really do love beaches and not so surprisingly, they needed to dip their toes in the water.  Alleppey is known more for its backwaters than its beach, and this one was almost empty during our visit.

    Dipping their toes in the Arabian Sea

    Cochin

    Accommodation in Cochin With Kids

    After our second night in Kumarakom, we headed back to Cochin along the Malabar Coast.  We stayed at the Vivanta by Taj – Malabar, an exceptional hotel on the harbor.  The highlight of the room for the kids was glass walled bathroom with a privacy blind that raised and lowered electronically with a switch, but they also enjoyed the view from or room.   We had a scrumptious dinner and breakfast at the hotel.  Although, after a busy few days, all three kids fell asleep before dinner was over (a first!).  The outdoor grounds of the hotel were lovely, and our son enjoyed a swim in the pool in the morning.

    View of the harbor from our room
    So sleepy
    Fun elephant sculpture
    The grounds were beautifully manicured
    View of the Arabian Sea from the pool

    Fort Cochin With Kids

    Before colonization, Cochin was a fishing village.  The major tourist attraction of the area are the Chinese fishing nets, which are located at the Cochin Beach and symbolize the history and culture of the region.  These nets were erected in the area starting in the 13th or 14th century and each operated by about six fishermen.  While they have been replaced by modern fishing techniques, they are open for tourists to experience first-hand. Local fisherman are even happy to allow tourists to raise and lower the nets.  My kids absolutely loved our hands on experience pulling up the net.   We visited Cochin beach in the evening and were treated to a beautiful sunset as we wandered through the nearby fish market.

    Chinese fishing nets
    Counterweights
    Helping out

    The nearby farmers’ market offered fresh catch, mostly from boats rather than the nets.  We enjoyed souvenir shopping at the stalls nearby.

    St Francis Church was the first European church built in India.  After his death, Vasco da Gama was buried here for 14 years until his remains were returned to Portugal.

    St. Francis Church

    Inside St. Francis
    Biking is such a common mode of transportation that the church yard is full of them

    We also enjoyed a Kalripayattu martial arts performance and were the only members of the audience.  Kalripayattu techniques include combinations of steps and postures and use a variety of swords and blades.  At the end of the show, the boys got a chance to participate with the performers.

    The performers’ strength was amazing

    We had a luxurious and truly spectacular vacation in Kerala.  Although we enjoyed seeing the tourist sights, I hope to spend more time relaxing at the beautiful resorts next time we visit.

    Planning a trip to India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Bangalore.

  • Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Visiting Bangalore With Kids

    Bangalore may be known more as an IT mecca than for tourism, but this “Garden City of India” is a great place to experience India. With a population of 8.4 million, it is the country’s third largest city and the capital of Karnataka.  We spent two weeks visiting family in Bangalore when our kids were 20 months, 5 and 8 and had an unforgettable trip.  We can’t wait to return to Bangalore with kids.

    When I first traveled to Bangalore over the 2007 New Year, I saw no more than three other blondes during our five-day visit.  That trip was the first time that I had ever been a minority.  I definitely attracted attention and a fair number of double-takes, but no one ever approached me on the street.  Minorities in the US have historically been treated with suspicion or viewed negatively, but that was definitely not my experience in India.  Indians seemed to be merely intrigued or interested in my uniqueness but not viewed in a negative light.  I was clearly identified as a tourist and constantly encouraged to enter stores.  When we visited again in 2016 with our three kids, we saw far more tourists in Bangalore and “blended in” a bit more.  Here are our favorite five family activities for visits to Bangalore with kids:

    #1:  Eating Out in Bangalore With Kids

    We ate like royalty in India.  Our family’s favorite cuisine is Indian, and all of our kids enjoy some spice in their food. With many meals, my husband and I enjoyed Kingfisher, the most popular Indian beer.  Kingfisher is available in the US, but only a version that is also manufactured in the States and does not taste like the Indian Kingfisher.

    Kingfisher, our favorite Indian beverage, complete with never-ending bubbles

    We ate lunch out daily and enjoyed some phenomenal restaurants, including:

    • Tandoor features palatial decor and traditional tandoori cooking and is located on MG Road.  The butter chicken, milai chicken and roti are our favorites  We loved Tandoor so much that we ate here twice.
    • Chutney Chang is a buffet offering Indian and Chinese dishes where we ate Easter lunch.  The buffet is so large that you have to do a quick preview before you start serving yourself.  And, save room for the delicious desserts.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the cotton candy.
    • Le Brassierie at Le Meridien was another unbelievable buffet where we dined for lunch on our last day in India.  La Brassierie’s buffet offers North Indian, South Indian, Japanese, Chinese and continental food.  When the server heard that we were celebrating our son’s birthday, they brought out an entire cake inscribed with Happy Birthday.  My little dimpled guy has never smiled so big.

    #2:  Bangalore’s Lalbagh Botanical Garden

    After a few hours in Lalbagh Botanical Gardens, it will be clear why Bangalore is known as the “Garden City” in this outdoor oasis located within a crowded city.  We hired a guide to take us around the gardens in an expanded golf cart and thoroughly enjoyed a few hours away from the hustle and bustle (and honking) of the city.

    We particularly enjoyed the 300 year old silk cotton tree, bird watching and generally exploring the foliage.

    #3:  Shopping in Bangalore With Kids

    Shopping was one of our favorite activities in Bangalore.  Almost everything available in India is offered at a fraction of the price you would find in the US.  Additionally, handicrafts made in India and jewelry are so much more unique and interesting.  We made a number of purchases, including a tailor-made suit made to measure for my older son’s First Communion, prescription glasses, jewelry, shoes and clothes.  While I never had trouble with substandard products, shopping at a government emporium is a good way to ensure quality at a reasonable price.

    Some of our favorite shopping areas include:

    • Brigade Road/Mahatma Gandhi Road (aka MG Road) is a popular tourist shopping area with a wide variety of popular international stores including Nike and Adidas.  Both Brigade Road and MG Road are very busy streets, and you have to be careful when crossing, but there are sufficient sidewalks for pedestrians.  Make sure to cross when the locals do.  There are often stalls set up on MG Road, and we purchased belts personally fit to each of us and a Panama hat for our younger son at one of these stalls.  Bargaining at all stores except emporiums and international chain stores is common.  Fast food chains McDonald’s, Pizza Hut and Dominos are all available, but we definitely did not waste any of our meals on fast food and didn’t choose “Western food” once.
      • Cauvery Emporium at the intersection of Brigade and MG Road is a can’t miss for authentic handicrafts, including textiles and sandalwood and rosewood products.
      • Cottage Industries Emporium is another government  emporium located a short drive away where we always find amazing Indian handicrafts.
      • PN RAO is a tailor that specializes in made to measure suits.  After picking out your material and pattern, your custom-made suit is ready for a first fitting about a week later.  We had a suit made for our eight-year old who was about to make his First Communion.

        Brigade Road at night
    Handcrafted wooden toys that you can sometimes see being made outside of Cauvery Emporium
    • Commercial Street is one of the oldest shopping areas in Bangalore.  It is extremely busy shopping street known for sale of clothes, shoes, jewelry and electronics.  Sidewalks are not consistently available, and the main street is shared by parked cars, moving cars and a fair share of pedestrians, so you need to use extra caution with kids here.  Soch (my favorite Indian clothes store) and Mex both have large stores here.  I was thrilled that Soch shortened my  kurti to my desired length for no additional charge and had it ready in about an hour.
    • The Forum in Koramangala was India’s first shopping mall development that includes five stories of shops and a multiplex movie theater and a food court.  Soch also has a store here.

    #4:  Religious Celebrations in Bangalore With Kids

    Spending Holy Week in Bangalore was a truly unique experience.  While Hinduism is the most common religion in India, there are almost 20 million Catholics.  My husband’s ancestors come from Goa and Mangalore, which are areas with large Catholic populations.  While some Indians were converted to Christianity at the time of Christ, most were converted during the Portuguese and British colonial periods.  In Goa, it was common for Indians to change their names to Christian names after conversion.  They often adopted the Portugese surname of the missionary who converted them.  As a result, there are about 50 very common Indian Catholic surnames.

    Holy Thursday and Good Friday services at our church at home are well attended but there are always plenty of seats.  If you arrive 20 minutes early on Easter Sunday, you are pretty much guaranteed a seat.  The services we attended in India gave “standing room only” a new meaning.  Multiple services are held almost hourly in different languages, and hundreds of chairs are set up outside with large screens live video streaming the Mass.  We arrived at least 30 minutes before each service began to park and then wait outside the doors for the prior service to finish.  As soon as the prior Mass ended, people would rush in to find a seat.  Everyone was dressed up and reverent and patient with the large crowds.

    Easter 2016 coincided with Holi, a Hindu Spring festival known as the “festival of colors” that is popular with non-Hindus as well.  People cover each other with brilliant colors and spray each other with water guns and water balloons.  We enjoyed watching this joy-filled celebration.  We worried about the color getting in the kids’ eyes and didn’t participate in the bright celebration, but found a great list of tips for celebrating Holi in India.

    Waiting for Mass
    Throwing color to celebrate Holi

    #5:  Sporting Events in Bangalore With Kids

    With two boys, sporting events are always high on their list.  Our trip occurred during the 2016 ICC World Twenty20 cricket tournament, and we watched cricked almost every night.  It was amazing to see my boys fall in love with the sport that their dad grew up with.  Cricket is an extremely complicated game, but they started picking up the rules and the lingo.  My husband purchased tickets to a match held in Bangalore between West Indies and Sri Lanka, and the boys couldn’t wait.  Unfortunately, our oldest spiked a  high fever on the day after we arrived in India, which was the day of match and was crushed to watch from home while his brother had an experience of a lifetime.  West Indies went on to win the tournament in a heart wrenching game against England.  Admittedly, even I enjoyed watching that.

    The boys also had unique experiences playing soccer in the school yard of their dad’s school, St. Joseph’s.

    Our older son also played soccer every night he could with neighbor children in the complex we stayed in.  His brother opted for swimming in the pool where he made a few friends himself and taught himself to swim during our stay.

    We were lucky to have about two weeks in Bangalore and explore at a slow pace.  To make the most of a short visit, check out this ultimate Bangalore itinerary.

    While both boys note that visiting family was the best part of our time in Bangalore, we really enjoyed exploring the city, which was so different than our everyday lives.  Visiting India with kids, check out our posts on planning and Kerala.

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  • India With Kids

    India With Kids

    India is an amazing country for kids to experience.  Our trip to Bangalore and Kerala in March 2016 was our children’s first taste of South Asia and really opened their eyes to the beautiful country their dad called home when he was a child.  In India, they saw two extremes – the luxurious lifestyles of a portion of the population and the challenges of a developing country.  Our most memorable experiences of the trip included countless amazing meals, fabulous shopping, unparalleled street chaos (vehicles, people and stray animals sharing the road) and some luxurious relaxation in Kerala.

    Planning

    My husband and I had previously traveled together to India over the Christmas holidays in 2006.  Our trip included stops in Goa, Mangalore, Bangalore and Bombay, but we knew that we wanted to limit our internal travel on our first trip with kids.  We chose to spend the majority of our time in Bangalore visiting my husband’s family and make only one side-trip to Kerala during our 16 days there.

    We traveled when our youngest was a full-fledged toddler of 20 months but could still qualify as a lap-child, which is how she would travel even if we bought her a seat.  Because we were staying mostly with family, our trip planning for the Bangalore portion required only booking flights.  With the long journey to get to India, we decided to extend our sons’ spring break by a week to minimize school absences.  About five months before our trip, we booked flights from Cleveland to Bangalore on Qatar Airways with stopovers in Boston and Doha.

    Many Indian travel companies require payment in local currency or a physical credit card and therefore cannot make advance bookings from the US.  Mark’s uncle was able to help us book our Kerala trip locally through Atlas Hoppers, but we understand that Atlas Hoppers can accept bookings from outside of India.  Nancy also has friends who have highly recommend Tours By Locals to arrange guides.

    Prior to our departure, we secured e-visas.   We traveled on 60-day e-tourist visas but had to apply during a specific window and complete final processing at the Bangalore Airport upon arrival.  It was a bit of an added hassle to our middle of the night arrival, but far less expensive than the one-year visa.  This option made sense for us because we did not expect a return trip in the near future.

    We also made got the necessary vaccines, which include typhoid and Hepatitis A.  Because there was minimal malaria risk in Bangalore and Kerala during the time of our trip, we did not have to take precautionary malaria medicine.  This was a huge relief because all anti-malaria medication have pretty scary side effects.  We carried bug sprays and wipes because the selection and availability of both are limited in India but were glad not to need them.

    Packing

    Because there was no fee for checked baggage, and I was not completely sure what items might be easy to find in India, I packed substantially more than usual.  However, next time we go to India, I’ll bring far less knowing that we are certain to purchase clothes and likely even shoes after we arrive.  Also, it’s important to check the expected temperature, as some seasons can be very hot in India.  It was unseasonably warm during our stay, so the skinny jeans I packed were really of no use.  I recommend packing light-weight clothes.  As always, I traveled with some children’s ibuprofen and adult pain and cold medication even though we knew that medicine was readily available in pharmacies at a fraction of their US cost (e.g. a bottle of children’s ibuprofen cost about $.30). Diapers are probably available, but I would recommend bringing them as well.

    Getting There

    I was worried about how the kids would survive the 30-hour trip from Cleveland to Bangalore.  Before our departure, we learned that the Boston-Doha route we booked was starting service on the day before our departure and featured the United States’ second Airbus 350.  As soon as I stepped on board, I knew that the Airbus 350 was a special aircraft.  It was absolutely beautiful with décor and lighting that reminded me of a night club.  The in-seat entertainment was unparalleled.  All the Academy Award nominated films that I had not had a chance to watch were available even before their DVD releases.  The electronic components were cleverly stored under the floor so that valuable under seat leg room was not sacrificed in the process.  Also, the plane was mostly empty, so my husband and each of my boys took a row of three seats for themselves to sleep, and my daughter and I shared another row.  This allowed us the luxury to get semi-decent sleep for about seven hours of the 12-hour flight.  The Airbus 350 is the way to travel – especially on a long flight when traveling in coach with a toddler virtually connected to you.  When we stepped off, we were sad that we would not be traveling home on this exact plane.

    Airbus 350

    Qatar Airlines ran promotional videos about Doha on all flights and offers complimentary city tours.  Doha definitely looked like a city we would like to visit one day, and we definitely hope to return to Qatar with kids.  However, our itinerary did not permit us to leave the airport.  My oldest son did play a little violin in the airport during our layover for the novelty of playing violin in Qatar.

    Transportation

    India is definitely a challenging travel destination logistically – with or without kids.  If you are traveling to India without local family, you need to make sure to hire a recommended driver and guide for every day that you are there.  This may seem like an extravagance, but it is relatively inexpensive (we paid a driver with a car about $20 for eight hours).  While we often traveled by uber and even auto with no issues, my husband was very familiar with the city, and his uncle always took the precaution of watching our driver’s route from pickup to drop off.

    Traffic is pretty chaotic in Indian cities and watching the other travelers on the road is truly an experience.  The vehicles, people, animals and signs you see and non-stop honking you hear are all so different from anything you see in the West.  Cows were a common fixture along the side of the road, and we once even saw an elephant.  It’s a good thing that it was so interesting to watch because even traveling a few miles can take quite a long time in crowded cities.  Also, car seats are virtually unheard of, and cars are not equipped with self-retracting belts or any kind of LATCH/Isofix system to make them really usable.  Luckily, cars, motorcycles, autos and bikes travel at low speeds. At least, that’s what I kept telling myself.

     

    Common street scene

     

    It’s not everyday you see an elephant walking on the side of the road

    Accommodation

    We were fortunate that we were able to mostly stay with family.  If you are not visiting family or friends, it is advisable to book higher-end or recommended hotels, and 4.5-5 star hotels are generally available for $100-$150/night.  We thoroughly enjoyed staying at Taj hotels during our trip to Kerala and had a wonderful buffet lunch at the stunning Leela Palace.

    Leela Palace in Bangalore

    Shopping

    Shopping in India is pretty amazing.  Most items are a fraction of the cost that you would find them in the US.  On our first trip to India before kids, we bought so much that we had to purchase a suitcase to bring all the items back with us.  We purchased several bedspreads, a rug, two side tables (which came apart and fit in our luggage), a carved lamp, prescription glasses, some handicrafts and jewelry.  While I was there, I felt like I was buying too much jewelry.  But, I found that in the nine years between our visits that I rarely found pieces as interesting, unique and affordable in the US.  So, on our trip last year, I made sure to not limit myself and found several new pieces, which are now in heavy rotation.

    Not only are prices substantially lower in India, but service is amazing.  When we looked at jewelry in a store and returned a few days later, the salesman (or less commonly, the saleswoman) would pull out whatever pieces I expressed any interest in and place them on display as I reached the counter.  In home goods stores, someone would pull out every bedspread or rug that we looked at twice.

    So many options!
    Bedspread displayed for us

    Language Barrier

    Many people think that communication would be an issue in India.  However, Hindi and English are co-official languages.  There are 22 major languages spoken in India, and many Indians speak their local language at home, but Hindi and English are unifying languages.  In our experience, anyone in a service industry role spoke English.  The only times we needed to communicate with a non-English speaker occurred when we were riding in an auto.  My husband’s broken Hindi was all we needed to get to our desired destination.  The prevalence of English surprises many Americans but is an obvious result in a country that was largely a British colony for over 300 years.

    Kid Caution

    Many people asked if it was safe for our kids to travel to India and had specific concerns about healthcare, safe food and water.  If you do have a medical issue when traveling in India, first-rate healthcare is widely available and affordable.  The day we arrived, our son spiked a fever, which soared to 104 degrees the next day.  We were able to take him to an ER on a Sunday and have him examined by a pediatric doctor.  The doctor prescribed medicine and rest and prepared a folder filled with all the details of the examination and recommendations.  We were definitely satisfied by his care and shocked that the hospital fee was a mere $8 and prescribed medicines cost about $1 total at the pharmacy.  After this experience, it doesn’t surprise us that people travel to India from all over the world for medical procedures, including $1,800 heart surgery with outcomes among the world’s best.

    The tap water is absolutely not safe to drink, even when brushing your teeth.  Outside of our relatives’ homes where the water was specially filtered, we only drank sealed beverages.  While this seems odd at first, it is such a common request that servers typically bring sealed beverages to your table so that you are certain that no tampering could have occurred.  There is also a risk that raw fruit and vegetables may have been washed in tap water that can cause illness.  Luckily, the country’s specialties are all cooked food like curries, naan, dosas, biryani and samosas, and cooked vegetables are especially tasty.  We ate our way through India at well-known and higher end restaurants and had no food or water issues at all.

    Because my son contracted a bacterial infection from swallowing pool water in Mexico as a toddler, we were particularly careful with our daughter.  She only used one pool in Kerala, and I held her above the water the entire time she was in the pool.  We were also extra careful when bathing her.

    Because of risks related to food and vaccinations, India is not a recommended travel destination for young babies or women who are pregnant, nursing or planning to become pregnant.

    India with Kids?

    Our vacation in India was definitely more complicated than any of our other trips as a family, but I’ve never seen our boys have so many “aha moments.” Nothing quite compares to the moments they spent playing soccer with local boys in their dad’s school yard, dipping their toes into the Arabian Sea, relaxing on a houseboat in the backwaters of Kerala, learning to swim in their great aunt and uncle’s pool, riding in an auto, watching us negotiate with salespeople, operating a Chinese fishing net, attending Mass in a church that gave “standing room only” a new meaning and eating the most delicious meals of their life.  If you are aware of the risks and plan accordingly, India is an amazing family travel destination, and one you will definitely never forget.

    Check out Bangalore Highlights and Kerala Highlights.

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  • Safari With Kids? Umlani Bushcamp Review

    Safari With Kids? Umlani Bushcamp Review

    In June 2017, my husband and I took a much needed anniversary trip sans children to Africa. Although our itinerary included stops in South Africa, Zimbabwe, and Botswana, we worked in two separate safaris: Umlani Bushcamp in the Timbavati Game Reserve just outside Kruger National Park in South Africa and Muchenje Safari Lodge just outside the Chobe National Park in Bostwana. Both stays were four day, three-night stays, thus allowing us sufficient time to explore all the camps had to offer. The question of whether to safari with kids is one that I’ve gotten numerous times and, although our children did not travel with us, this Umlani Bushcamp review will hopefully provide you with an idea of whether a safari with kids is a good idea given your personal situation.

    To read about the Muchenje experience, go here.

    Umlani Bushcamp

    Words cannot begin to express how much I loved our experience at Umlani Bushcamp. For our party of two, our four day, three-night all-inclusive stay (which included pick up from Hoedspruit Airport and departing shuttle from the Timbavati to Johannesburg National Airport) was less than $1300.

    I loved the arrivals and departures board at Hoedspruit!

    I’ll admit that my husband and I were both skeptical because it seemed so cheap. Indeed, I comparison shopped and a four day, three-night stay at a five-star lodge in the Timbavati would have cost $3,692.31 the same dates we were there! Suffice it to say, I was worried going into Umlani that it would be an awful experience, but I left deeply in love with the camp and can’t wait until my children are old enough to bring them back.

    The Timbavati, I learned, is a private game reserve that was set up by a number of landowners in the 1950s. The reserve borders Kruger National Park and there is no fence between the two, meaning the animals are free to roam the two areas. Some of the land had been used previously for cattle farming and during our game drives, we did see evidence of its cattle farming history.

    There is no electricity at Umlani, so everything is solar powered, including the Wi-Fi, which is available during daylight hours (although if you ask nicely, they will turn it on in the evenings so you can text your in-laws and check in on the children, while gloating about the fabulous rhino pictures you took). There’s a central charging station, located in the gift shop, where I felt perfectly comfortable leaving my cell phone and camera batteries to charge during the day.  There is no age restriction on guests; however, if I remember correctly, children under age one cannot ride in the safari vehicles and children under a certain age (I believe 6?) are not permitted on bush walks. I asked our head ranger and was told that although children aren’t permitted on bush walks, they can arrange for shorter walks around the camp if children are well behaved. The camp can also arrange for an overnight stay in the Treehouse, which we did our second night.

    the treehouse, where we stayed our second night

    The camp’s daily schedule is: 6AM bush drive, followed by breakfast, lunch at 1PM, 3PM bush drive, followed by dinner. An optional bush walk, guided by a ranger, is available after breakfast. We arrived at camp around 12:30pm, and there was only one other guest at the time. We enjoyed lunch together and then it was time to depart on our first game drive.

    view of our eco hut
    the inside of our eco hut, complete with bottle of champagne to celebrate our anniversary

    Umlani game drives all take place aboard open-air vehicles. Because the Timbavati is a private reserve, off-roading is allowed, unlike in a national park where vehicles must stay on the major roads. At Umlani, each game drive took place with two staff members – one driver/ranger and one tracker, seated on the front of the jeep. We were given a number of instructions prior to our first game drive, including, but not limited to, stay in the land cruiser, do not stand up unless given permission to stand up, and wear neutral colored clothing to avoid drawing attention to yourself, etc…

    view from the inside of the land cruiser
    Hanging out in the land cruiser, while the early morning snacks get set up

    My husband and I were dedicated safari-goers, participating in every morning and afternoon game drive and requesting the optional bush walk after breakfast every morning. On our first game drive, we saw a white lioness, and on our very last game drive we saw a leopard – in between, we saw the other three animals which form the Big Five (the elephant, buffalo, rhinoceros) and countless zebra, giraffes, and other local game. Because off-roading is permitted, we were able to get much closer to the animals than our subsequent safari, which took us through Chobe National Park.

     

    I have about 1,000 photos of birds on game…
    my husband, taking a photo of the hippo in the lake while I enjoyed my sundowner (wine and snacks)
    the white lioness we saw on our very first game drive

    completely surrounded!

    buffalo!

    Viewing the animals in their natural habitat was an incredible experience and it did not take long for me to understand why people fall in love with Africa – it is intoxicating. But what made the Umlani experience was the people who work there. Everyone was incredibly kind and welcoming, going the extra mile to ensure that we were comfortable. They encouraged us to ask questions, volunteered information about living and working in the bush, and every night, at least one member of the staff joined us for dinner. We definitely felt like we got to know the employees and they also took an interest in our lives and hearing about our children back at home. By our second day, the staff knew that I liked white wine at the sundowner, red wine for dinner, and that I had two little kids at home, staying with their grandparents, and thus needed to spend a fair amount of time on the Wi-Fi, ensuring everyone’s happiness and well-being.

    dining area in the light of day
    inviting place settings at every meal
    every dinner began and ended seated around the fire in the boma. many fond memories of conversations with other guests and staff there
    the boma area
    Shadreck, our amazing Ranger, explaining the rules of the bush walk just prior to taking off

    On top of that, I found this article about Umlani after our trip and found myself loving Umlani even more! During our stay, I got a sense of how wonderful the camp is to its employees – including welcoming the children of employees to stay with the staff on camp and join along on game drives when they aren’t full, but learning that Umlani has actually changed lives really brought home just how unique Umlani is. My husband and I both found ourselves commenting that we needed to get back to Umlani soon and often because rarely in life do you find something so special.

    Practically speaking, Umlani would have been an outstanding experience for my eight-year-old, but a terrible experience for my two-year-old. Because we’re out in the bush, there’s very limited open space for kids to play and cause ruckus. My two- year-old likely would have had a difficult time getting his energy out in a safe manner. Logistics aside, it would seem awfully inconsiderate to bring a toddler on a safari unless you have a large enough party that you require an entire vehicle on the game drives. I cannot count the number of times I have gotten fed up with the constant toddler chatter, demands, whines, etc in the car; I would never think to subject other paying vacationers to the same experience. The safari schedule is also rather rigid – you must get up and be ready to depart at 6am for the game drive; there is no waiting or dawdling and so, if you need to be able to manage your child’s schedule in a way that it conforms to the safari routine, without inconveniencing others. Consequently, while Umlani does welcome children of all ages, I would not bring a non-school aged child on safari without understanding that there are significant draw backs to doing so (including having to sit out on certain experiences and/or not being able to participate in bush walks) and tempering my expectations accordingly.

    The lack of electricity, however, was not an issue, and I found myself surprised by just how comfortable the accommodations were. In the evenings, everyone gathered for a dinner in the dining room (served family style), and then staff members escorted you back to your room. Although some people stayed to have an additional drink in the boma, most people went back to their room and went to bed, to get ready for the next morning’s game drive.  I believe the only thing that is out of the question at Umlani is the hair dryer, but I never expected to “do” my hair while on safari anyway, so I didn’t miss it.

    A note about the return transfer to Johannesburg Airport. Our travel agent suggested that we take the shuttle from the Timbavati back to Johannesburg Airport as we had a full day and were not scheduled to fly to Victoria Falls until the following morning. We were booked onto Ashtons Tours, but, through no fault to the company, I would not recommend this drive with small children. The drive from the Timbavati to Johannesburg took approximately six hours and it was a long time to spend in the car. Moreover, there was only one short stop of about 15 minutes, and I cannot imagine children enjoying this ride. I would recommend either driving yourself, although this is not without risk as portions of the road are in horrendous condition, or simply returning to Hoedspruit and flying on to your next destination. In hindsight, we should have taken a flight from Hoedspruit to Johannesburg and flown directly to Victoria Falls from there, without our overnight at the Johannesburg airport. This would have saved us a day and a very long ride in the shuttle. If you are shuttle bound, however, Ashtons is not only affordable but honest. My husband, in his haste to unfold himself from the car, left our DSLR in the vehicle. When I emailed the next day inquiring, I was informed it had been located and they happily arranged to drop it off at our airport upon our return to Johannesburg for a very nominal fee.

    small shops selling trinkets along the road to Johannesburg

    To read about the Muchenje experience, go here