Category: italy

When we started considering Europe as a summer vacation destination, we immediately wanted to combine visits to both Italy and France.  Our three kids, aged 3, 8 and 10, had never been to Italy, and Rome and Venice had been high on my bucket list ever since I visited Florence as a college backpacker.  Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, we had a lovely Italian holiday filled with delicious meals and visits to iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites, palaces, gardens and art museums.  We enjoyed planning a family trip to Italy with kids and put together this Italy trip planner for other families!

 

Traveling to Italy With Kids

Wondering how to plan a family trip to Italy?  Start with making travel arrangements to and from Italy.  We booked our trip to Paris and Italy a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues.  We discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on Wow air to Paris,  However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.

When we went to book the evening flight I had found from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to boats.  Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and some do not allow check ins after a certain time.  Because the risk of not having accommodations was simply too great to even consider, we decided to research overnight trains.   Almost immediately, we found the Thello night train from Paris to Venice that met our needs perfectly.  The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit.  At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.

Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars.  So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family.  The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost!  I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and Venice and accommodations with late check in fees.

We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun sleepover experience, and they definitely did.  The three level bunk beds were a particular hit.  We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a particularly relaxed evening in our sleeper car.  Our boys chose the top bunks, and my daughter quickly mastered the ladder.  We all slept for about nine hours of the journey.  The only downside was that the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in.  Find out all about our trip on the Thello night train.

We booked an EasyJet flight from Rome‘s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy.  Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372.  Although it is only a two-hour flight, it took about seven and a half hours from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre.  We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train experience.

 

Travel Within Italy With Kids

We traveled in Northern Italy by both rental car and train.  We took Trenitalia from Venice to Bologna, where we picked up a rental car to take us to the Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum, Pisa and San Gimignano, and we returned our car upon our arrival in Florence.  We traveled via Trenitalia again from Florence to Rome, a quick 90 minute journey.

Renting a car was a convenient way to make a bunch of stops slightly off the beaten path without having to worry about storing luggage, which was our major concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day.  However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging.  We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into a limited traffic zone on more than one occasion.  As a result, our preference was definitely traveling by train between cities whenever possible.  Find out all about renting a car in Italy.

 

Accommodations in Italy With Kids

Although booked our trip only a few weeks in advance, we were very pleased with our accommodations in Italy.

Accommodations in Venice

We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge.  This authentic Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine.  The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.  The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio.  I noticed a pack and play and high chair in the laundry room and children’s silverware in the drawers that would be extremely helpful for families with babies or toddlers.

 

Accommodations in Pisa

Our Pisa hotel, the Relais I Miracoli Residenza D’Epoca was located literally steps from the Tower of Pisa and had the most spectacular view from our window.  Only two rooms in the hotel have this view, and they are both family rooms.  Our room was comfortable, and a stocked mini bar and breakfast at the cafe downstairs were included in the room rate.  We parked our car overnight outside the city walls about five minutes away.

 

Accommodations in Florence

We stayed in an Airbnb about a five minute walk from the Duomo.  This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room.  It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine.  We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train.  Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.

 

Accommodations in Rome

We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb.  This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs.  The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible.  David was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine.  David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out.  We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.

 

Local Transportation within Italy With Kids

We found most of Italy very walkable but did need to travel at times via vapretto, metro or taxi.

There are no typical buses or subway system in Venice.  The metro are ferry boats, which are known as vaprettos.   One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas.  Because our Airbnb was centrally located near both Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge, we only used a vapretto for the round trip journey from the train station to the apartment and walked the rest of our time in Venice.  On the way back to the train station, we took a slightly longer but much more scenic route through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.  Find out more about vapretto travel in Venice.

While Rome was also a very walkable city, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.  We took only six Metro rides during our five days in Rome. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6,  3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24, but because we used the Metro so infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding.  Children under 10 do not require tickets.  Find out more about Metro travel in Rome.

We did not use public transportation at all in Florence, but we did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb.  We also traveled by taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50.  Taxis were convenient because we avoided schlepping our kids and bags through the streets of Florence while getting our bearings and on the train and Metro in Rome.  Our drivers were particularly professional, and we even got a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.

Packing for a Family Trip to Italy

Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats.  Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with  a maximum of four to five outfits each.

 

With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in ziploc bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a backup in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When the suitcase didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip.

 

Eating in Italy With Kids

A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to the England semi-final World Cup match).  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water but always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

Our favorite restaurant in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome.  In Florence, we enjoyed our dinner at I Ghibellini so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.

There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal.  The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight.  One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.

I loved starting off my morning with a perfect cup of cappuccino served at the counter of the coffee shop next to our apartment.  Like most coffee shops, alcoholic beverages were stored on higher shelves so that it could double as a spot to grab an early evening drink.

• Pro Tip:  A “coffee” in Italy is really an espresso shot.  Because this is not my preference, I always opted for a cappuccino but read Cafe Americano is a close substitute as well.

We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We did not find a grocery in Venice, Pisa and Florence and found any snacks or produce at corner shops rather outrageously priced.  However, we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the water fountains around the cities.

 

Cell Service in Italy With Kids

We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment.  WiFi was usually available at restaurants, and it was nice to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

 

Currency in Italy With Kids

We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

 

Language Barrier in Italy With Kids

Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where none of the servers spoke English.  We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme.  It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.

 

Pickpocketing Warning in Italy With Kids

We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station.  A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.

Find out more about my Travelon anti-theft messenger bag.

 

Planning Our Italy Family Vacation Itinerary

To help get our kids involved with planning our Italy family vacation itinerary, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice, Florence and Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know.   We initially hoped to make quick stops in Padua, Bologna and Sienna, but later determined that we did not have enough time to tack on even brief visits to additional cities.  The key to finding the best Italy itinerary for families is to prioritize cities to visit and allot enough time in each one.

 

Family Trip to Italy Itinerary – 11 Days

We spent 11 days in Italy in the middle of a 17 day European vacation.  We planned to take a slower pace when possible, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore the city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many wonderful cities and sights.  We weren’t able to fit in trips to Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast this time, but both are high on our list for our next trip.

Here is our basic daily Italy with kids itinerary:

Day One – Venice

• Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
• Take vapretto to Airbnb
• Explore Venice streets
• Saint Mark’s Square
• Rialto Bridge
• Gondola Ride
• World Cup Game

Day Two – Venice 

• Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
• Explore Venice streets
• Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
• Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
• World Cup Game

Day Three – Venice – Modena – Maranello – Pisa

• Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
• Train to Bologna
• Pick up rental car
• Lamborghini Museum
• Ferrari Museum
• Drive to Pisa
• Explore Tower of Pisa and Field of Miracles at night

Day Four – Pisa – San Gimignano – Florence

• Tour Pisa Cathedral and Baptistery
• Climb the Tower of Pisa
• Drive through Tuscany
• Afternoon in San Gimignano
• Drive to Florence
• Check in to Airbnb
• Duomo at night

Day Five – Florence

• Palazzo Vecchio
• David Replica
• Santa Croce
• Santa Maria Novella
• Boboli Gardens

Day Six – Florence – Rome

• Attend Mass at the Duomo
• Roam around Florence
• Train to Rome departs at 2:40 p.m. and arrives at 4:10 p.m.
• Watch World Cup Final
• Trevi Fountain

Day Seven – Rome

• Pick up Colosseum tickets
• Visit Palatine Hill/Forum
• Colosseum tour
• Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
• Trevi Fountain

Day Eight – Rome

• Pantheon
• Santa Maria sopra Minerva
• Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius
• Piazza Navona
• Spanish Steps

Day Nine – Rome – Vatican City

• Vatican Museum
• Sistine Chapel
• St. Peter’s Basilica
• St. Peter’s Churches
• Afternoon siesta
• Trevi Fountain

Day Ten – Rome

• Mouth of Truth
• Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin
• Walk around the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum
• Borghese Gardens

Day Eleven – Rome – Paris

• Breakfast
• Shopping
• Leave for Airport at noon

 

Find Out More About Our Italy Trip With Family

We definitely recommend Italy family travel.   We hope this guide outlined how to plan a family trip to Italy. Make sure to check out our listing of all blog posts related to travel to Italy with kids!

The Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum hosted our family’s visits.  As always, all opinions are my own.