We Go With Kids!

Category: rome

  • 20 Free Things to Do in Rome

    20 Free Things to Do in Rome

    Rome is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, and we knew spending five days in Rome was not going to be inexpensive.  However, we were pleasantly surprised at how many of the attractions in Rome were free.  Additionally, although some attractions had admission fees for adults, most attractions were free in Rome for kids.  Here are our favorite 20 free things to do in Rome:

    Free Things in Rome – Pantheon Neighborhood 

     

    #1:  Pantheon With Kids

    The Pantheon was originally completed in 27 B.C. as a Roman temple dedicated to all (pan) of the gods (theos).  It is now over 2000 years old and the most complete ancient Roman building still standing.  The Pantheon’s dome is 142 feet high and wide and was the world’s largest dome until the Renaissance.  It remains the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome.  The concrete walls supporting the dome are a staggering 20 feet thick.  Although it is considered the eighth wonder of the ancient world, there is no admission fee to enter.

    The Pantheon was converted to a Catholic basilica in the seventh century, and its preservation is likely a result of this conversion.  Because the method used to build the dome was not recorded, Brunelleschi and Michelangelo studied the support structure for the Pantheon’s dome, which includes pillars inside the walls, before building the Duomo in Florence and St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, respectively.

    When we arrived at the Piazza della Rotonda in front of the Pantheon, we spent several minutes standing behind the Fontana del Pantheon, the fountain at the center of the Piazza featuring a 40 foot Egyptian obelisk constructed from a single slab of granite by Ramses II more than 3,000 years ago.  Unlike the other obelisks scattered around Rome, this one featured a cross at the top.  Moving that obelisk from Egypt to Rome was clearly no simple task.  The Pantheon’s entrance consists of eight columns that are each 40 feet high and also constructed from a single piece of granite.

    There was a short line for security, but it moved very quickly.  We visited on a particularly hot day, but the Pantheon was nice and cool inside.  A beam of light shone through the oculus and illuminated the interior, which we explored in detail.  We learned that 80% of the floor tiles are original and are purposely slanted to let rainwater out through the small holes.  We also found Raphael’s tomb below the Altar of Our Lady of the Rock.

    • Pantheon Facts for Kids:  The oculus at the top of the dome is 30 feet in diameter and is the Pantheon’s only light source.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Pantheon With Kids:  On our first visit, we spent about 35 minutes in the Piazza della Rotonda and inside the Pantheon.  We walked through the Piazza della Rotonda several times later in our trip but only visited the Pantheon’s interior once.

     

    #2:  Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica With Kids

    The Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica is Rome’s only remaining Gothic church.  It is located in the Piazza della Minerva, which is adjacent to the Pantheon.  The ceiling of the Gothic interior was painted a brilliant blue in the 19th century and provided an unexpected contrast to all the other Gothic churches we’ve visited in Western Europe.  Michelangelo’s Christ Bearing the Cross statue and the tomb of Saint Catherine of Seina, my patron saint, are located in the Basilica’s interior.

    Piazza della Minerva, which is a small square right outside the Basilica, features the Elephant and Obelisk.  The obelisk was brought to Rome by Diocletian for the Temple of Isis in the 3rd or 4th century.  It is Rome’s smallest obelisk, standing at a height of only about 5.5 meters.  The base was designed by  Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the 17th century.

    • Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica Facts for Kids:  The Basilica was built on the former site of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess, Isis, which was mistakenly attributed to the Greco-Roman goddess, Minerva.
    • Time Spent Visiting Church of Santa Maria sopra and Minerva Piazza della Minerva:  About 20-30 minutes

     

    #3:  Church of Sant’Ignazio With Kids

    The Church of Sant’Ignazio is a Catholic church constructed in a classic Baroque style.  The most memorable feature of the Church of Sant’Ignazio was the false dome roof.  Plans for this church, which was completed in the 17th century, included a domed roof, but there were not enough funds to support the construction of a dome.  So, Jesuit artist Andrea Pozzo was hired to paint the roof to make it appear to be a dome.  The optical illusion is quite realistic.

    • Church of Sant’Ignazio Facts for Kids:  The original dome painting was destroyed in 1871 and was replaced with the current replica.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Church of Sant’Ignazio With Kids:  About 20 minutes

     

    #4:  Trevi Fountain With Kids

    The Trevi Fountain is a mammoth Baroque fountain that features statues designed by Nicola Salvi.   The fountain, which was constructed between 1732 and 1762 is 85 feet long and 65 feet high and is one of the world’s largest fountains.  Its construction celebrated the reopening of ancient aqueducts.  Trevi Fountain means “three street fountain” because of the three roads that converge at the Fountain.

    Our Airbnb was located only a short walk from the Trevi Fountain, and we were able to pass by many times during our five days in Rome.  We were always amazed at the sheer number of people all trying to capture the perfect shot of the Fountain.  We could tell we were getting close by the dull roar of the crowd and water streaming from the 24 spouts.

    The enormous fountain features 24 spouts, and the sound of the water cannot be mistaken.  While there is no fee to view the Trevi Fountain, romantic visitors love to throw coins over their shoulder into this fountain, hoping the gesture will secure a return trip to Rome.  Coins valuing approximately €3,500 are collected daily from the Fountain and donated to local Catholic charity, Caritas Rome.  The current Mayor of Rome recently withdrew a proposal to redirect the money collected from the Trevi Fountain for the city’s infrastructure.

    • Trevi Fountain Facts for Kids:  The central statue of the Trevi Fountain is Oceanus, who is commonly misidentified as Neptune.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Trevi Fountain With Kids:  We passed by the Trevi Fountain at least a half-dozen times while in Rome.  The first time, we spent about 10 minutes in the crowds.  The other times, we generally stopped only for a moment or two.

     

    #5:  Spanish Steps With Kids

    The Spanish Steps are a wide, curving, Baroque staircase, consisting of 138 steps in three tiers, that lead from the Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church.  These stairs were built between 1723 and 1725.  Another obelisk is framed between two Baroque church towers.

    At the bottom of the Stairs is the Sinking Boat Fountain, which is an aqueduct-powered fountain that was designed by either Gian Lorenzo Bernini or his father, Peitro, in 16th century.  The fountain is powered by the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, and doesn’t shoot up into the air because the water pressure is low here.

    We passed by the Spanish Steps several times during our time in Rome.  The amazing panoramic view from the top includes the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica and is brilliant at sunset.  It is also a particularly lively place at night, even in the rain.

    For tourists looking for designer boutiques, the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna provides prime shopping opportunities.

    • Spanish Steps Facts for Kids:  English Poet John Keats lived and died in the house to the right of the Steps.  His home is now the Keats–Shelley Memorial House museum.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Spanish Steps With Kids:  Our visits to the Spanish Steps varied from a few minutes to an hour.

     

    #6:  Piazza Navona With Kids

    Piazza Navona has served as a center of Roman life since the ancient times.  Piazza Navona was the location of Circus Agonalis, a sports venue built by Emperor Domitian that could hold 30,000 spectators about 2,000 years ago.  Circus Agonalis opened about the same time as the Colosseum when Rome was at its peak.  No trace of the stadium structure still exists, but the oblong shape of the square is the footprint of the arena’s competition space.

    Piazza Navona features three Baroque fountains.  Fountains depicting a Moor wrestling a dolphin and Neptune slaying an octopus are located at either end of the Piazza.  In the center is Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain, which features an Egyptian-style obelisk that was actually made in Rome.  The four statues that make up this 17th century fountain represent the four quarters of the world.

    Outdoor cafes line the Piazza, and we enjoyed lunch across from the Four Rivers Fountain and then made sure to pick up some gelato before continuing on our way.

    • Piazza Navona Facts for Kids:  Piazza Navona is featured in Angels & Demons, Catch-22, Coins in the Fountain and National Lampoon’s European Vacation. 
    • Time Spent Visiting the Piazza Navona With Kids:  About 90 minutes, including lunch.

     

    Free Things To Do in Vatican City

     

    #7:  Saint Peter’s Basilica With Kids

    St. Peter’s Basilica, the world’s largest church and the site of St. Peter’s tomb, is free to enter.  While most visitors arrive from the secret Sistine Chapel entrance, it is also possible to enter directly from St. Peter’s Square.  However, the security line is often lengthy.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the decoration of the interior was finished.

    We were overwhelmed by the immense size of St. Peter’s Basilica.  Michelangelo’s sculpture, Pieta, which is displayed at St. Peter’s, is a representation of Mary holding Jesus’ body that shows his skills as a master sculptor.  It is unbelievable to me that Michelangelo completed Pieta, his first major commission, at the young age of 24.  Michelangelo is not only considered one of the world’s best sculptors and painters 500 years after his death, but he also designed St. Peter’s dome, which rises 448 feet (longer than the length of a football field).  Michelangelo was named lead architect in 1546 and studied the domes of the Pantheon and Florence‘s Duomo before designing his plans.  The Basilica’s main altar is made of a marble slab and surrounded by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s impressive seven-story bronze canopy and is located below the dome.

    See my full review of St. Peter’s Basilica.

    • St. Peter’s Basilica Facts for Kids:  In the 4th century, Emperor Constantine built the original church on the site where St. Peter was martyred, but by the 16th century, the Old St. Peter’s church was falling apart.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the interior decorating was finished.
    • Time Spent Visiting the St. Peter’s Basilica With Kids:  45-60 minutes (not including security lines)

     

    #8:  St. Peter’s Square With Kids

    St. Peter’s Square is one of the world’s most famous squares.  It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and includes 284 Doric columns, each 56 feet tall and topped with sculptures of 140 saints.  The square is an elliptical shape to symbolize the arms of the Church welcoming all people.  In the center stands an Egyptian obelisk, which is over 4,000 years old and 90 feet tall.  Emperor Caligula brought the Vatican Obelisk to Rome in the first century.  It is made of granite and weighs about 300 tons and is unusual in that it does not have any hieroglyphs.

    See my full review of St. Peter’s Square.

    • St. Peter’s Basilica Facts for Kids:  The Vatican Obelisk is the only Roman obelisk that has not toppled since ancient times.  It was placed in its current site in 1586.  Bernini added the Chigi arms on the top and made it the centerpiece of the Square.
    • Time Spent Visiting the St. Peter’s Square With Kids:  30-45 Minutes.

     

    Free Activities in Rome – Colosseum Neighborhood

     

    #9:  Colosseum With Kids

    While there is an admission fee for adults to go inside the Colosseum, there are many amazing free viewpoints to see its famous exterior, and there is no admission charge for kids under 18.  I was in awe the moment I emerged from the Colosseo metro stop.  Visitors can walk around the periphery of the Colosseum and count the 80 arches without paying a dime.

    Find out more about Colosseum tickets.

    • Colosseum Facts for Kids:  The Colosseum was constructed in eight years and had capacity for 50,000 spectators.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Colosseum With Kids:  Our visit lasted about 2-2.5 hours, including our guided tour.

     

    #10:  Roman Forum With Kids

    Our visit to the Roman Forum let us step back in time and get a glimpse of the cultural, governmental and spiritual center of ancient Rome.  Although there is an admission charge for adults to enter the Roman Forum grounds, this ticket is a combination ticket with the Colosseum, and children under 18 are free.  Additionally, the views from the periphery are comparable to those within.  On our last day, we walked around the Roman Forum and took this picture without entering the grounds.

    Even from the ruins, we could see how detailed these ancient structures really were.  Our visit to this area provided an amazing hands-on history lesson, and we recommend a stop at the Roman Forum for any family visiting Rome.

    Check out my full review of the Roman Forum.

    • Roman Forum for Kids:  Arch of Titus, which dates back over 2,000 years and provided inspiration for the much larger Arch de Triomphe.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Forum With Kids:  About 45 minutes inside the Forum, and we walked around the periphery on our last day in Rome.

     

    #11:  Palatine Hill With Kids

    The Palace of Domitian dominates Palatine Hill (which is also the origin of the word “palace”).  There is a fee for adults to enter the grounds of Palatine Hill (combined with the Roman Forum and Colosseum entrance), but children under 18 are free.  It is also possible to view the Palatine Hill ruins by walking around the periphery of Palatine Hill and not entering the grounds themselves.  While we were able to tour the grounds, we came back to the area on the last day and followed the periphery for a different point of view.

    The Palatine Hill buildings are largely in ruins and not as exciting as the Palace of Versailles or Doge’s Palace, both of which we had visited earlier in our trip.  But this area is where Romulus and many other wealthy Romans chose to build their estates due to the proximity to the Roman Forum.

    Check out my full review of Palatine Hill.

    • Palatine Hill Facts for Kids:  Palatine Hill is the center of the Seven Hills of Rome and sits about 130 feet above the Forum.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Palatine Hill With Kids:  About 45 minutes.

     

    #13:  Arch of Titus With Kids

    The Arch of Titus, which was constructed about 82 AD, appears to be largely intact over 2035 years later; however, parts have been reconstructed.  For example, the fluted columns are original, but smooth portions are reconstructions.  The 50 foot Arch was originally much more colorful, but the colored marble was unfortunately scavenged over the years.

    • Arch of Titus Facts for Kids:   The Arch of Titus was the inspiration for the much larger Arc de Triomphe in Paris.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Arch of Titus With Kids:  Just a few minutes.

     

    #14:  Arch of Constantine With Kids

    The Arch of Constantine is a triumphal arch located between the Colosseum and Palatine Hill that was completed in 315 to commemorate Constantine I’s victory at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312.  The Arch consists of a large central arch and two smaller arches on each side.

    • Arch of Constantine Facts for Kids:   The Arch of Constantine is Rome’s tallest triumphal arch.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Arch of Constantine With Kids:  Just a few minutes.

     

    #15:  Victor Emmanuel II Monument With Kids

    The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is dedicated to Italy’s first king, Victor Emmanuel II.  This mammoth, white marble structure is 200 feet high and 500 feet wide, and dwarfs the Trevi Fountain.  The monument is a neoclassical interpretation of the Roman Forum that was constructed between 1895 and 1911. At the center is a 43 foot high statue of the King on his horse.  The monument has received criticism for being too ostentatious and pompous, but even for tourists who think it is over the top, the panoramic view it offers is pretty amazing.

    • Victor Emmanuel Monument Facts for Kids:  The Monument holds the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a casualty of World War II.  The tomb is located under the statue of the goddess, Roma.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Victor Emmanuel Monument With Kids:  We stopped twice, with each visit lasting only a few minutes.

     

    #16:  Mouth of Truth With Kids (“Bocca Della Verita”)

    The Mouth of Truth is a large marble mask that has hung in the Atrium of Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin since 1632.  According to its legend, the mask is the ultimate lie detector.  The mask has a small mouth opening that is supposed to bite the hand of anyone who is not truthful.  Tourists line up to get their turn sticking their hands into the mouth.  Luckily, tourists are a truthful lot, and we didn’t witness any hand injuries during our half hour wait for our turn.

    • Mouth of Truth Facts:  The Mouth of Truth received world-wide attention after it was featured in Audrey Hepburn’s 1953 Roman Holiday.
    • Time Spent at the Mouth of Truth:  We waited for about 30 minutes for our 30 seconds with the mask.

     

    Things to Do in Rome for Free – Via Veneto Neighborhood

     

    #17:  Villa Borghese Gardens With Kids

    The Villa Borghese Gardens are Rome’s “Central Park” designed in the English landscape style.  We picked up sandwiches for a picnic lunch at Borghese Gardens on our last afternoon in Rome.  It was a bit of a hike to reach the Gardens from our Airbnb near the Barberini Metro.  We entered through the old Roman wall at the Via Veneto entrance but later saw that there was a second entrance at the top of the Spanish Steps that may have been more convenient.

    It was the end of our second week of travel, and we thought a bit of relaxation in a park was exactly what we needed.  We were relieved to find park benches in the shade lined up along one of the roads that ran through the Gardens.  We sat down and were thoroughly entertained by all the visitors who rented bikes, multi-rider pedaled rickshaws single or motorized scooters to explore the Gardens. After we had our fill of lunch and people watching, the kids stretched their legs running around in circles for a bit before we headed out.

    • Borghese Gardens Facts for Kids:  Villa Borghese Gardens were commissioned in 1605 by Cardinal Scipione Borghese on the site of a former vineyard.  Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and wanted to create the largest gardens since Roman antiquity.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Borghese Gardens With Kids:  About 1.5-2 hours.

     

    Free Things to See in Rome – Generally

     

    #18:  Obelisks in Rome

    The fact that Rome has more obelisks than any other city in the world was not something I expected.  Obelisks were popular among the Roman Emperors because Egyptians treated their rulers as divine.  There are eight ancient Egyptian obelisks and five ancient Roman obelisks, and we saw most of them.  Romans constructed enormous ships in order to transport the obelisks from Alexandria in Egypt across the Mediterranean Sea to Rome.

    The Elephant and Obelisk

     

    • Roman Obelisks for Kids:  Most ancient Egyptian obelisks have hieroglyphs while the Roman obelisks do not.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Obelisks With Kids:  A few minutes at each one.

     

    #19:  Drinking Fountains in Rome 

    There are over 2,500 free, public drinking fountains available all around Rome.  The water is very safe to drink and ice cold, which we really appreciated during the hot July days of our visit.  The pipe system used to transport the water from the mountains above Rome to the fountains are the original aqueducts constructed centuries ago.  We carried our own water bottles to refill throughout the day and also used the water in the fountains to cool off on particularly hot days.

    • Roman Water Fountain Facts for Kids:  The letters SQPR, which commonly appear on water fountains and in stone and marble throughout the city stand for “Senatus Populus Que Romanus” which roughly represents the ancient Roman government.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Water Fountains With Kids:  We visited public water fountains many times each day and rarely had to wait for more than 1-2 minutes for our turn.

     

    #20:  Metro With Kids (free for kids under 10)

    Kids under 10 ride the Metro in Rome for free when traveling with an adult.  This made Metro rides extremely affordable for our family.  Although we found Rome very walkable, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.

    Rome Metro Facts for Kids:  Rome Metro’s driverless Line C is currently under construction to connect the city’s eastern quadrant with its northwest quadrant, and the construction zone was particularly noticeable near the Colosseum.

    • Time Spent Riding the Rome Metro:  During our five days in Rome, we took six rides on the Metro.  Each ride was approximately 10-15 minutes.

     

    Free Things for Kids to Do in Rome

    We were surprised that there were so many free things to do in Rome.  Planning a family trip to Italy, be sure to check out our other blog posts about Florence, San Gimignano and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Visiting the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    Visiting the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    A visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill is a great way to step back in time and take a glimpse of ancient Rome.  The Forum is a rectangular plaza in the valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills. The only remaining structures, which were constructed between 500 BC and AD 400, are all in ruins, but enough remains to really spark our imagination of what the governmental, cultural and civic center of Rome looked like thousands of years ago.  The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill have separate entrances, but the two sights are interconnected.  So, it’s possible to start at one and end in the other.  For our family of five (including kids ages 3, 8 and 10), our visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill was a complete history lesson, and we are glad we didn’t overlook these amazing sights during our visit to Rome.

     

    Visiting Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum

     

    Directions to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    The Colosseum is conveniently located near the Colosseum Metro station.  We were staying near the Barberini station on the red A line and had to travel to Termini, the train station, and transfer to the blue B line and then travel two stops to reach the Colosseum.  The entire journey was probably about 15 minutes, and we had a short walk to the Colosseum area once we left the station.

     

    Palatine Hill and Roman Forum Tickets

    We pre-booked a combination ticket to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill through Coop Culture.  The combined ticket cost €17 for each adult, and children under 18 are free.  Like the Louvre, which also cost our family €34 to visit, I found it pretty astounding how inexpensive admission was for these iconic sights.  In contrast, most museums in the US cost at least $75 for admission for our family.

    Our tickets permitted a single entry into each attraction on the same day or on two consecutive days.  Our priority was the Colosseum, and we weren’t sure how long our visit would take, so we headed there first.  We were inundated with tour guides offering us skip the line entry as soon as we arrived and were happy to have already sorted out tickets and not need to risk giving money to a con artist.  We needed to stand in line to exchange our pre-booked vouchers for actual tickets from a small booth outside the Colosseum.

    We loathe lines in general, but this one luckily took only about 15-20 minutes.  Even though it was mid-morning, the sun was already pretty hot.  So, we purchased water bottles for our entire family during the wait.  I discovered in the line that the fine print on our voucher allowed entry to the Colosseum only after 2 p.m. during the summer months.  But, we also found that we could book a 45 minute guided tour in English that cost €5 for adults (again, children were free).  We went ahead and planned a 2:30 p.m. entry and a 3:00 p.m. tour and then headed to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill.

     

    Entering the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    A funny thing really did happen on the way to the Forum….  After we collected our Colosseum tickets, we asked the ticket agent for directions to the Roman Forum entrance.  She took one look at our stroller and suggested that we pass the Forum entrance and use the Palatine Hill entrance instead.  We had read that the Forum entrance often has a long line, so we thought we were getting valuable intel.  It turned out to be the worst stroller advice we have ever received.

    We got through the Palatine Hill entrance quickly but found the uphill pebble pathway nearly impossible with a stroller.  Palatine Hill is the center of the Seven Hills of Rome and sits about 130 feet above the Forum but really seemed like a trek. Our daughter reluctantly climbed out when it became obvious that we wouldn’t be able to push the stroller with her weight on the uneven surface, but it was hot, and the hard to find ruins were not exciting enough to captivate her attention and make her want to walk.

    The boys had watched Ben-Hur before our trip, and we were excited to see Circus Maximus, the site of the chariot races.   From Palatine Hill, we were able to see a panoramic view of the field where the stadium was located.  We actually had a better view of the site a few days later when we were walking to the Mouth of Truth.

    View of Circus Maximus from Via del Circo Massimo

    The Palace of Domitian dominates Palatine Hill (which is also the origin of the word “palace”).  But, it is largely in ruins and not as exciting as the Palace of Versailles or Doge’s Palace, both of which we had visited earlier in our trip.

    Checking out the courtyard of the Palace of Domitian
    Checking out the courtyard of the Palace of Domitian

    As usual, we used Rick Steves as a guide, and I narrated our visit by reading the short blurbs in Rick Steves Italy. Although Steves’ nuggets of information were interesting, I have to admit that we were underwhelmed with Palatine Hill.  Walking up the Hill was particularly brutal and really not overly exciting.

     

    A Visit to the Roman Forum

    We may not have been wowed by Palatine Hill, but the Roman Forum was pretty spectacular.  It is an impressive archeological site.  The population of ancient Rome reached a whopping 1 million, most of whom lived in tiny apartments or tents but spent their time in the Forum.  While none of the ancient buildings are intact, there is enough remaining to provide an image of what it looked like.  My son bought the book, Rome Reconstructed, at one of the gift shops that included amazing side by side comparisons of buildings then and now, and really helped the kids understand what ancient Rome was like.

    Although there were stairs here and there, the stroller was actually generally easier to maneuver in the Forum due to some paved walkways.  We weren’t fighting gravity on our descent, but there were some areas where cobble stones made it absolutely necessary for our daughter to jump out and walk a bit.

    Large stones in the Forum that were not stroller friendly
    Large stones in the Forum that were not stroller friendly

     

    Roman Forum Buildings

    My favorite building in the Roman Forum is the Arch of Titus.  The Arch, which was constructed about 82 AD, appears to be largely intact over 2035 years later; however, parts have been reconstructed.  For example, the fluted columns are original, but smooth portions are reconstructions.  The Arch was originally much more colorful, but the colored marble was unfortunately scavenged over the years.

    It didn’t surprise me that this 50 foot arch was the inspiration for the much larger Arc de Triomphe in Paris because I immediately saw the resemblance.

    Arch de Triomphe
    Arch de Triomphe

    I was also wowed by the three columns standing from the Temple of Castor and Pollux, which date back to 484 BC.  The columns were constructed in the first century AD.

    Three remaining pillars of Temple of Castor and Pollux
    Three remaining pillars of the Temple of Castor and Pollux

    The Temple of Saturn dates back to about 490 BC and is the oldest sacred monument in Rome.  Its enormous eight columns framed the Forum’s oldest temple and continue to stand out in the Forum landscape.

    The eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn are pictured on the far left
    The eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn are pictured on the far left

     

    Alternate Views of the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    On our last day in Rome, we followed the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum when walking from the Mouth of Truth to the Colosseum Metro stop, and I enjoyed the panoramic views of the Hill almost as much as our walkabout inside earlier in our trip.  We did not see the Forum illuminated at night, but I’ve heard that is a pretty spectacular sight.  If admission to the Forum is combined with Colosseum tickets, it is definitely worthwhile to make a quick visit.  However, for families pressed for time, the Colosseum is definitely the more impressive site.  Just make sure to take a walk around the periphery to appreciate the glory of ancient Rome.

    View of Palatine Hill from Via del Circo Massimo
    View of Palatine Hill from Via del Circo Massimo

     

    Best Way to Visit the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    If we were to do it again, I would definitely plan for no more than an hour visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, enter at the Forum (even if the line was longer), focus on the Roman Forum and possibly just poke around the top of Palatine Hill before heading out.

    To find out more about family travel to Italy, check out our other blog posts about Rome, Florence and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    When we planned to spend five days in Rome at the end of our ten days in Italy, a day in Vatican City was at the absolute top of our must do list.  The Pope resides in Vatican City in Italy, which is generally considered as the center of the Catholic Church.  As Catholics, this was a unique religious pilgrimage.  Vatican City may be the world’s smallest country, but it is chock full of religious, architectural and artistic wows that make it a must-see destination, even for families with young children.  We loved visiting Vatican City with kids.

    The Vatican City attractions are the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and St. Peter’s Square.  The Vatican Museums are the fourth most visited art museum in the world with 6.4 million visitors in 2017 and the fifth largest art museum in the world.  The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican Museums and the chapel of the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope (although Pope Francis chose to live in the Vatican guest house instead).  St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and considered the most renowned example of Renaissance architecture.   The key-hole shaped St. Peter’s Square was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and can hold a whopping 300,000 people.

    A Day in Vatican City With Kids

    Getting to the Vatican With Kids

    The night before our trip to Vatican City, we wondered if passports were necessary.  A quick Google search clearly indicated they were not, and we were relieved to leave them hidden in our Airbnb.  We took the Metro from Barberini to Ottaviano, which was a quick five-stop journey on Line A of the Metro.  From Ottaviano, the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica are each about a 10 minute walk but in different directions.  We had no problem following the crowds toward the Vatican Museums.  Along the way, we were approached by seemingly dozens of tour guides offering tickets and packages but were fortunate to have prebooked our Vatican City ticket and did not have to chance the legitimacy of these tours.

    Vatican City Tickets 

    There are many options for Vatican Museum skip the line tours.  We prebooked our Vatican Museums tickets (which included a guided tour and Sistine Chapel entry) directly through the Vatican Museums’ website, as recommended by our friends at Two Traveling Tots.  Our kids generally enjoy guided tour, and we were not concerned that this wasn’t specifically a Vatican tour for kids.  We arrived in Vatican City more quickly than expected and uncharacteristically one hour early for our 11 a.m. tour.  When we arrived at the Vatican City entrance, we showed our booking voucher to the customer care staff outside the entrance and were told to return at 10:30 a.m., 30 minutes before our 11:00 am tour.  So, we found a bit of shade and stood with all the other early tourists and were grateful that we weren’t standing in the line for visitors arriving without tickets that stretched around the corner and down the street.  A couple at the front of the line told me that they had been waiting for two hours.

    Waiting for our designated entry time

    At 10:30 a.m., we presented our vouchers for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel tour and were vaguely directed inside to collect our tickets.  We first tried an automated machine in the lobby, but found that it did not work because we had ordered reduced price tickets for our sons.  We stood in line at the ticket counter on the left side of the lobby but discovered that was also wrong.  We ended up finding the correct counters by the door leading from the lobby into the Museums, collected our tickets and headed to the designated meeting point not long before our 11 am tour.

    The correct ticket counters for visitors with guided tour vouchers
    Our designated meeting point

    Our tour guide, Patrick, gave us each a headset.  After the group had assembled, he explained that the tour would be an hour and a half to two hours and end at the Sistine Chapel.  Because silence is required in the Sistine Chapel and tour guide narration is strictly prohibited, Patrick spent about 15 minutes in front of a diagram of the Sistine Chapel located outside of the Vatican Museums describing in detail what we would see when we did reach the Chapel.

    Our first official stop on the tour was the Cortile della Pigna where Patrick talked about the Fontana della Pigna.  This sculpture of a pine cone and peacocks dates back to the 1st or 2nd century and used to be a fountain.  The Pigna was located near the Pantheon until the Middle Ages.

    Fontana della Pigna

    We then proceeded into the Vatican Museums, which contain four miles of displays of one of the world’s best art collections from antiquity to Renaissance.  Our visit to the Louvre, the mother of all art museums, less than two weeks earlier, in no way prepared us for the massive crowds that piled into the Vatican Museums.  With a family of five, including a stroller, it was often a challenge to stay together and with our tour group among the shoulder to shoulder crowd that made me feel like I was perpetually in the Mona Lisa room.  The Tapestry Gallery was particularly crowded, likely because it was air-conditioned to protect the tapestries.  Tapestries from Raphael’s workshop are displayed on the left wall, and the sculpted reliefs on the ceiling are breathtaking.

    This was what the crowd looked like pretty much in every gallery of the Vatican Museums

    The Gallery of Maps features a series of topographic maps commissioned by Pope Gregorius XIII.  The 40 panels were completed by geographer Ignazio Danti between 1580 and 1583.  The ceiling was colorful and memorable.  Apparently, the windows provide a great view of Vatican City, but there was clearly no ability to stop on the day we visited.

    Ceiling of the Map Gallery
    Impressively detailed maps of Italy

    Raphael’s Rooms are four galleries that were previously papal apartments and contain frescoes by Raphael and his assistants completed between 1508 and 1524.  The second room, Stanza della Segnatura, features Raphael’s famous School of Athens, which depicts Aristotle and Socrates.  Leonardo da Vinci appears as Plato, and Raphael appears as himself.  Raphael painted School of Athens while Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and added Michelangelo at the front.

    Raphael’s School of Athens

    As we left Raphael’s Rooms, our tour guide instructed the group that we would go down a few staircases and then reconvene.  My husband and I somehow got separated in the crowd and each thought the other was in front.  All three kids, including my daughter, who was soundly sleeping in her stroller, were with me.  The two boys and I made sure that she was tightly buckled into her stroller and carefully carried it down several staircases, all absolutely packed with people not particularly willing to give us the extra space we needed.  For some time, I could still hear Patrick talking through my headset but never found him again.  I managed to stay calm during those chaotic 20 minutes even though I did not have cell service, WiFi wasn’t available, and we had no backup plan for meeting if we got separated.  While the art was definitely spectacular, it was my husband who was the most welcome sight when we entered the Sistine Chapel.  We recommend a visit to the Vatican for kids.  The tour was informative, but we will likely arrive with a detailed map and go the self-guided route next time or take a private Vatican tour with kids.

     

    Visiting the Sistine Chapel With Kids

    The Sistine Chapel is the Pope’s personal chapel and where new popes are elected during the Papal Enclave.  It is world-renowned for its ceiling, a cornerstone work of High Renaissance art painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512.  We were glad that Patrick provided historical background and details of the paintings before our tour of the Vatican Museums began.  Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to paint the flattened barrel vault ceiling and envisioned each of the 12 triangular pendentives to contain the image of one of the apostles.  Michelangelo first declined, insisting he was a sculptor rather than a painter, but eventually accepted on the condition that he have artistic license.  Michelangelo was in his mid 30s when he painted these ceiling frescos, which depict nine panels illustrating the Book of Genesis.   He completed the 5,900 square feet of painting almost entirely on his own (in contrast to Raphael, who employed assistants to complete his designs).  The famous center panel features The Creation of Adam and depicts God reaching out to give life to the first human.

    Twenty-three years after completing the Sistine Chapel ceiling, Michelangelo returned to the Sistine Chapel to paint his Last Judgment.  Patrick described how Michelangelo placed Jesus in the center and incorporated the image of an archbishop who was critical of his work naked and in hell.  These memorable stories stayed with us even though we had to wait until the very end of the tour to see the Chapel first-hand.

    While Pope John Paul II was Pope from 1978 to 2005, there have been two Papal Enclaves since his death.  Pope Benedict XVI was elected during the Papal Enclave that occurred in the Sistine Chapel following Pope John Paul II’s death.  After Pope Benedict XVI retired in 2013, Pope Francis was elected during the second Papal Enclave held inside the Sistine Chapel in eight years.

    Photography is strictly prohibited in the Sistine Chapel as is talking, and covered shoulders were a must.  Guards regularly repeat, “Silence” to remind awe-struck visitors that this is a high holy chapel.   After we spent about 20 minutes oohing and aahing, we left the Sistine Chapel and were happy to find both bathrooms and a souvenir shop before continuing to St. Peter’s Basilica about 30 minutes later.

    • Napping in the Sistine Chapel:  As full disclosure, my three-year old daughter slept through our entire visit to the Sistine Chapel.  She never laid eyes on Michelangelo’s ceiling or Last Judgment, and we weren’t concerned.  At age three, she had visited six of the eight most visited art museums in the world and countless cathedrals, basilicas and chapels.  We can’t control when she needs to sleep and wouldn’t dare to purposely wake her in the middle of the Pope’s chapel.  It wouldn’t be a pretty sight for anyone.  She did wake up on her own to fully enjoy St. Peter’s Basilica.
    • Pro tip:  Follow the exit at the back of the Chapel directly to St. Peter’s Basilica.  It is officially for Vatican guides and their groups only and not 100% reliable and meant we missed the stunning double helix Brumante Staircase, but it saved us from waiting in another security line outside of St. Peter’s.

     

    Visiting St. Peter’s Basilica With Kids

    St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and the site of St. Peter’s tomb, which is believed to be directly underneath the main altar.  St. Peter was one of the 12 Apostles and moved to Rome and became the first Pope after witnessing the resurrection of Jesus.  He was crucified in about A.D. 65 under Emperor Nero Augustus Caesar.  Emperor Constantine built a church on the site where St. Peter was martyred in the fourth century, but by the 16th century, the Old St. Peter’s church was falling apart.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the interior decorating was finished.

    View of St. Peter’s Basilica from the Colonnades

    For visitors who do not arrive at St. Peter’s from the special Sistine Chapel exit, there is no admission to enter St. Peter’s, but the security lines can be lengthy at times.  At the far-right entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica, we saw the Holy Door, which is opened in designated Jubilee years that occur every 25 or 50 years (last of which was in 2000) or as specially designated by the Pope.  Pope Francis designated 2015-2016 an Extraordinary Jubilee of Mercy and opened the Holy Door out of cycle.  My friend and his wife were able to walk through it during this exciting year.  Because 2018 is not a Jubilee Year, it was closed and even boarded up from the inside but still beautiful to see.  I’m not sure why I’m so fascinated by this door, but I’m secretly planning for Spring Break 2025, the next Jubilee Year.  I am already planning the 2-3 perfectly timed days we’ll spend in Rome when we will secure tickets for a papal audience or papal Mass, visit the Pantheon early in the morning, fully explore the Vatican Museums, show my daughter the Sistine Chapel and find a way to check out the Spiral Staircase and use the secret exit connecting the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter’s Basilica.

    The Holy Door

    We entered St. Peter’s directly from the Sistine Chapel and were overwhelmed by the immense size.  We had just been wowed in the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo’s painting of the ceiling and Last Judgment, and it’s hard to believe that Sistine Chapel masterpieces could be considered as a prelude to Michelangelo’s work in St. Peter’s.  Michelangelo’s sculpture, Pieta, is a representation of Mary holding Jesus’ body that shows his skills as a master sculptor.  It is unbelievable to me that he completed Pieta, his first major commission that is now displayed at St. Peter’s, at age 24.

    Michelangelo’s Pieta

    Michelangelo not only created paintings and sculptures that would be recognized among the most notable works of art 500 years after his death but also designed St. Peter’s Basilica dome, which rises 448 feet (longer than the length of a football field).  Michelangelo was named lead architect in 1546 and studied the domes of the Pantheon and Florence‘s Duomo before designing his plans.  Michelangelo continued working on the dome until his death in 1564.

    Michelangelo’s dome

    The Basilica’s main altar is made of a marble slab and surrounded by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s impressive seven-story bronze canopy and located below the dome.   My eight year old photographer made sure to capture the view.

    Bernini’s dove window was one of my favorite ever.  It may not be as intricate or as colorful as medieval stained glass, but I couldn’t take my eyes off this alabaster window.

    The Tomb of Pope John Paul II is located in St. Peter’s below St. Sebastian, his favorite saint.  Pope John Paul II was the Pope of my young life and sainted in 2014.

    Tomb of Pope John Paul II

    Our last stop in St. Peter’s was to visit the crypt, which contains the tombs of many popes, but photography is not permitted, and we also did not sneak any unauthorized pictures.  We spent approximately 45 minutes in St. Peter’s before heading outside into St. Peter’s Square.

     

    St. Peter’s Square With Kids

    St. Peter’s Square is one of the world’s most famous squares.  It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and includes 284 Doric columns, each 56 feet tall and topped with sculptures of 140 saints.  The square is an elliptical shape to symbolize the arms of the Church welcoming all people.

    Checking out the obelisk

    In the center stands an Egyptian obelisk, which is 2,000 years old and 90 feet tall.  It is made of granite and weighs about 300 tons.

    We spent some time wandering through the covered walkway around the Square, desperate to stay in the shade as long as possible.  We found one of the many Roman water fountains and used it to hydrate and cool off.  After spending about 30 minutes in St. Peter’s Square, we headed off in search of lunch.

     

    Why We Loved the Vatican For Kids

    Our visit to Vatican City was certainly one of the most educational parts of our trip.  We all gained a much deeper understanding of Renaissance art and architecture, developed a newfound appreciation for Michelangelo and learned quite a bit of Catholic history.  It would have certainly been easier to visit without a stroller, but even my three year old enjoyed her time in Vatican City, particularly St. Peter’s Basilica.  We definitely recommend Vatican City for kids.  To find out more about family travel to Italy, check out our other blog posts about Rome, Florence and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Planning a Trip to Rome With Kids

    Planning a Trip to Rome With Kids

    Rome has always been high on my bucket list.  I didn’t visit the Eternal City when I traveled to Italy as a college backpacker and have regretted that decision for years.  After finding a last-minute flight to Paris for our family’s summer vacation, we decided to tack on 10 days in Italy.  Rome was my main priority and the final city on our Italian itinerary.  We were traveling with our three kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) and purposefully avoided traveling to Italy in August when Italian families traditionally vacation.  Even though it was hot and crowded during our mid-July visit, I was so glad to finally explore Rome and gain a new understanding of European history.  It was also extra special to experience that same first-time wonder and excitement as my kids while exploring Rome together.  This guide to planning a trip to Rome with kids covers all the essentials for a wonderful trip.

    Arch of Constantine

    Traveling to and from Rome With Kids

    We traveled to Rome via a quick 90 minute train journey on Trenitalia from Florence.  The train cost a total of €96 for our family of five.  There was no charge for our three year old, but no seat was reserved for her.  Upon exiting the train station in Rome, we inquired about the cost of a taxi to our nearby Airbnb but refused to be price gauged when quoted €35 and chose to take the Metro two stops instead.

    Trenitalia

    We booked an Easyjet flight from Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy.  Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372.  The taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50.  The taxi was very convenient because we did not want to schlep our kids and bags on the train and Metro.  Our driver was particularly professional and gave us a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.

    FCO Airport

    FCO was an easy airport to navigate, and I saved all five tickets to my Apple wallet for the first time, as we had no opportunity to print them out.  The kids were ecstatic to find the Italian version of the Wimpy Kid series in the gift shop, especially after finding an Icelandic version in our Reykjavik Airbnb the previous summer.

    Although it is only a two hour flight from Rome to Paris, the entire journey took about seven and a half hours door to door from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre.  We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train journey from Paris to Venice.

    Accommodations in Rome With Kids

    We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb.  This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs.  The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible.  Our host, David, was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine.  David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out.  We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.

    Living Room
    Bedroom

    Local Transportation in Rome With Kids

    We found Rome very walkable, but the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.  In our combined five days in the city, we took a total of six Metro rides. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6,  3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24.  Because we used the Metro on infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding.  Children under 10 do not require tickets.  Rome Metro’s driverless Line C is currently under construction to connect the city’s eastern quadrant with its northwest quadrant, and the construction zone was particularly noticeable near the Colosseum.

    Metro ticket machine

    We did not figure out the bus system, which probably was not the complicated maze it seemed to be, but walking just seemed much easier.

    Packing for Rome With Kids

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two BubbleBum booster seats.  WOW air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.

     

    Our luggage

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When it didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziplock organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip (and then delayed).

    Food in Rome With Kids

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Rome was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals (and gelato) guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day and never made reservations in Rome.  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than a oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    Menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water so we always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal.  The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight.  One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.

    Our favorite restaurant was in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome.

    Gioia Mia Pisciapiano

    In addition to the delicious meals, I also enjoyed my morning cappuccino at the cafe right next to our Airbnb.  I had been warned that “coffee” in Italy is really espresso, which is not my preference, but the cappuccino was divine and aesthetically pleasing as well.  Each morning, I ordered my cappuccino, paid €1.20, and then watched as the barista expertly prepared my cappuccino.  Like all the other customers, I drank while standing up along side the counter.  Like many Italian cafes, liquor was stored on higher shelves so the same space could morph into a happy hour location later in the day.

    We also made sure to have gelato every afternoon.  Our favorite was Il Gelato di San Crispino, which uses only natural ingredients and gained world-wide fame after being featured in The New York Times in 1996 and later by Elizabeth Gilbert in Eat Pray Love.  We visited the Trevi Fountain branch twice and ordered take out after dinner on our last night in Rome to enjoy in the comfort of our apartment.

    We found snacks and produce at corner shops rather outrageously price, but we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome not far from the Trevi Fountain.  We also maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the cold water fountains around Rome.

    Cell Service in Rome

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment.  While WiFi was usually available at restaurants, we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

    Currency in Rome

    We definitely needed to use euros at times, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

    Language Barrier in Rome?

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  We experienced no language barriers in Rome.

    Pick Pocketing Warning in Rome 

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Rome and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station.  A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.

    Planning Our 5 Day Itinerary for Rome

    To help get our kids involved with planning our five nights in Rome, I borrowed some children’s books on Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know.  My eight year old and I went through one and made a list of what we wanted to see, and I started doing research to determine what attractions require advance bookings.  Our top 10 list included the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Colosseum, the Forum/Palentine Hill, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Mouth of Truth and the Borghese Gardens.  We pre-booked our tour of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel and also ordered tickets to the Colosseum/Palentine Hill/Forum online, but the rest of the attractions did not require advance tickets or even charge admission.  The only time we had to wait was at the Mouth of Truth where tourists regularly wait about 30 minutes with this marble mask in the portico of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church.

    The Mouth of Truth

    We looked into the Roma Pass; however, we decided that it was not worth the cost for what we had planned.  We booked our two attractions with admission directly through each website and skipped dreaded lines.

    5 Day Itinerary Itinerary for Rome

    Our time in Rome was near the end of our 17 day trip, and we planned to take a slower pace, sit and enjoy meals and really explore the city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, but it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we made it to everything on our top 10 list.

    Our basic daily itinerary:

    Day One

    • Train arrives at 3:30 p.m.
    • Watch the World Cup Final
    • Walk to the Trevi Fountain
    • Dinner

    Day Two

    • Metro to Colosseum
    • Pick up tickets and book afternoon guided tour
    • Explore Palentine Hill and the Forum
    • Colosseum guided tour
    • Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
    • Trevi Fountain
    • Walk back to Airbnb

    Day Three

    • Pantheon
    • Santa Maria sopra Minerva
    • Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius
    • Piazza Navona
    • Spanish Steps

    Day Four

    • Guided Tour of Vatican
    • Sistine Chapel
    • St. Peter’s Basilica
    • Afternoon siesta

    Day Five

    • Mouth of Truth
    • Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin
    • Walk around the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum
    • Borghese Gardens

    Day Six

    • Breakfast
    • Shopping
    • Leave for Airport at noon

    Why We Loved Rome With Kids

    Visiting Rome gave us the chance to take a peek into the ancient world and also explore Vatican City, the center of the Catholic Church.  Our brief visit provided a mini course on the Roman Empire and the Renaissance, and the city was easily manageable with kids.  Considering a trip to Rome with kids?  Make sure to check out the rest of our series on Rome with kids, coming soon!

  • Planning a Family Trip to Italy With Kids

    Planning a Family Trip to Italy With Kids

    When we started considering Europe as a summer vacation destination, we immediately wanted to combine visits to both Italy and France.  Our three kids, aged 3, 8 and 10, had never been to Italy, and Rome and Venice had been high on my bucket list ever since I visited Florence as a college backpacker.  Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, we had a lovely Italian holiday filled with delicious meals and visits to iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites, palaces, gardens and art museums.  We enjoyed planning a family trip to Italy with kids and put together this Italy trip planner for other families!

    The Colosseum

     

    Traveling to Italy With Kids

    Wondering how to plan a family trip to Italy?  Start with making travel arrangements to and from Italy.  We booked our trip to Paris and Italy a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues.  We discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on Wow air to Paris,  However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.

    When we went to book the evening flight I had found from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to boats.  Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and some do not allow check ins after a certain time.  Because the risk of not having accommodations was simply too great to even consider, we decided to research overnight trains.   Almost immediately, we found the Thello night train from Paris to Venice that met our needs perfectly.  The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit.  At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.

    Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars.  So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family.  The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost!  I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and Venice and accommodations with late check in fees.

    We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun sleepover experience, and they definitely did.  The three level bunk beds were a particular hit.  We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a particularly relaxed evening in our sleeper car.  Our boys chose the top bunks, and my daughter quickly mastered the ladder.  We all slept for about nine hours of the journey.  The only downside was that the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in.  Find out all about our trip on the Thello night train.

    We booked an EasyJet flight from Rome‘s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy.  Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372.  Although it is only a two-hour flight, it took about seven and a half hours from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre.  We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train experience.

     

    Travel Within Italy With Kids

    We traveled in Northern Italy by both rental car and train.  We took Trenitalia from Venice to Bologna, where we picked up a rental car to take us to the Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum, Pisa and San Gimignano, and we returned our car upon our arrival in Florence.  We traveled via Trenitalia again from Florence to Rome, a quick 90 minute journey.

    Renting a car was a convenient way to make a bunch of stops slightly off the beaten path without having to worry about storing luggage, which was our major concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day.  However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging.  We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into a limited traffic zone on more than one occasion.  As a result, our preference was definitely traveling by train between cities whenever possible.  Find out all about renting a car in Italy.

    Our rental car

     

    Accommodations in Italy With Kids

    Although booked our trip only a few weeks in advance, we were very pleased with our accommodations in Italy.

    Accommodations in Venice

    We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge.  This authentic Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine.  The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.  The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio.  I noticed a pack and play and high chair in the laundry room and children’s silverware in the drawers that would be extremely helpful for families with babies or toddlers.

    La corte di San Marco Airbnb

     

    Accommodations in Pisa

    Our Pisa hotel, the Relais I Miracoli Residenza D’Epoca was located literally steps from the Tower of Pisa and had the most spectacular view from our window.  Only two rooms in the hotel have this view, and they are both family rooms.  Our room was comfortable, and a stocked mini bar and breakfast at the cafe downstairs were included in the room rate.  We parked our car overnight outside the city walls about five minutes away.

    View from our hotel room

     

    Accommodations in Florence

    We stayed in an Airbnb about a five minute walk from the Duomo.  This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room.  It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine.  We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train.  Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.

    Our Florence Airbnb

     

    Accommodations in Rome

    We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb.  This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs.  The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible.  David was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine.  David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out.  We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.

    Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb

     

    Local Transportation within Italy With Kids

    We found most of Italy very walkable but did need to travel at times via vapretto, metro or taxi.

    There are no typical buses or subway system in Venice.  The metro are ferry boats, which are known as vaprettos.   One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas.  Because our Airbnb was centrally located near both Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge, we only used a vapretto for the round trip journey from the train station to the apartment and walked the rest of our time in Venice.  On the way back to the train station, we took a slightly longer but much more scenic route through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.  Find out more about vapretto travel in Venice.

    View from the vapretto in Venice

    While Rome was also a very walkable city, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.  We took only six Metro rides during our five days in Rome. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6,  3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24, but because we used the Metro so infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding.  Children under 10 do not require tickets.  Find out more about Metro travel in Rome.

    Ticket machine in Rome’s Metro

    We did not use public transportation at all in Florence, but we did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb.  We also traveled by taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50.  Taxis were convenient because we avoided schlepping our kids and bags through the streets of Florence while getting our bearings and on the train and Metro in Rome.  Our drivers were particularly professional, and we even got a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.

    Packing for a Family Trip to Italy

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats.  Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with  a maximum of four to five outfits each.

     

    Our luggage

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in ziploc bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a backup in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When the suitcase didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziploc organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip.

     

    Eating in Italy With Kids

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to the England semi-final World Cup match).  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    We found the perfect table to watch the World Cup, so we booked it for the next night

    Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water but always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    Our favorite restaurant in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome.  In Florence, we enjoyed our dinner at I Ghibellini so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.

    There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal.  The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight.  One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.

    Alice Pizza

    I loved starting off my morning with a perfect cup of cappuccino served at the counter of the coffee shop next to our apartment.  Like most coffee shops, alcoholic beverages were stored on higher shelves so that it could double as a spot to grab an early evening drink.

    • Pro Tip:  A “coffee” in Italy is really an espresso shot.  Because this is not my preference, I always opted for a cappuccino but read Cafe Americano is a close substitute as well.
    Morning cappuccino

    We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We did not find a grocery in Venice, Pisa and Florence and found any snacks or produce at corner shops rather outrageously priced.  However, we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the water fountains around the cities.

    Our most artistic gelato

     

    Cell Service in Italy With Kids

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment.  WiFi was usually available at restaurants, and it was nice to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

     

    Currency in Italy With Kids

    We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

     

    Language Barrier in Italy With Kids

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where none of the servers spoke English.  We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme.  It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.

     

    Pickpocketing Warning in Italy With Kids

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station.  A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.

    Find out more about my Travelon anti-theft messenger bag.

     

    Planning Our Italy Family Vacation Itinerary

    To help get our kids involved with planning our Italy family vacation itinerary, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice, Florence and Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know.   We initially hoped to make quick stops in Padua, Bologna and Sienna, but later determined that we did not have enough time to tack on even brief visits to additional cities.  The key to finding the best Italy itinerary for families is to prioritize cities to visit and allot enough time in each one.

     

    Family Trip to Italy Itinerary – 11 Days

    We spent 11 days in Italy in the middle of a 17 day European vacation.  We planned to take a slower pace when possible, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore the city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many wonderful cities and sights.  We weren’t able to fit in trips to Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast this time, but both are high on our list for our next trip.

    Here is our basic daily Italy with kids itinerary:

    Day One – Venice

    • Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
    • Take vapretto to Airbnb
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Saint Mark’s Square
    • Rialto Bridge
    • Gondola Ride
    • World Cup Game

    Day Two – Venice 

    • Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
    • Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
    • World Cup Game

    Day Three – Venice – Modena – Maranello – Pisa

    • Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
    • Train to Bologna
    • Pick up rental car
    • Lamborghini Museum
    • Ferrari Museum
    • Drive to Pisa
    • Explore Tower of Pisa and Field of Miracles at night

    Day Four – Pisa – San Gimignano – Florence

    • Tour Pisa Cathedral and Baptistery
    • Climb the Tower of Pisa
    • Drive through Tuscany
    • Afternoon in San Gimignano
    • Drive to Florence
    • Check in to Airbnb
    • Duomo at night

    Day Five – Florence

    • Palazzo Vecchio
    • David Replica
    • Santa Croce
    • Santa Maria Novella
    • Boboli Gardens

    Day Six – Florence – Rome

    • Attend Mass at the Duomo
    • Roam around Florence
    • Train to Rome departs at 2:40 p.m. and arrives at 4:10 p.m.
    • Watch World Cup Final
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Seven – Rome

    • Pick up Colosseum tickets
    • Visit Palatine Hill/Forum
    • Colosseum tour
    • Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Eight – Rome

    • Pantheon
    • Santa Maria sopra Minerva
    • Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius
    • Piazza Navona
    • Spanish Steps

    Day Nine – Rome – Vatican City

    • Vatican Museum
    • Sistine Chapel
    • St. Peter’s Basilica
    • St. Peter’s Churches
    • Afternoon siesta
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Ten – Rome

    • Mouth of Truth
    • Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin
    • Walk around the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum
    • Borghese Gardens

    Day Eleven – Rome – Paris

    • Breakfast
    • Shopping
    • Leave for Airport at noon

     

    Find Out More About Our Italy Trip With Family

    We definitely recommend Italy family travel.   We hope this guide outlined how to plan a family trip to Italy. Make sure to check out our listing of all blog posts related to travel to Italy with kids!

    The Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum hosted our family’s visits.  As always, all opinions are my own.