We Go With Kids!

Tag: architecture

  • Tips for Visiting the Louvre With Kids

    Tips for Visiting the Louvre With Kids

    The Louvre in Paris is the largest and most visited art museum in the world with 400,000 art works and a permanent collection of about 35,000 on display.  It is housed in the Louvre Palace, a former royal palace that dates back to the 12th century.  The Louvre became a museum in 1793 during the French Revolution and has been expanded and renovated many times over the past 800 years.  The Louvre may not seem like a museum that welcomes children with open arms, but it is actually one of the most stroller-friendly museums we have ever visited.  So, there is no reason to skip it when traveling with children.  Here are our top 10 tips for visiting Musee du Louvre with kids:

    A Visit to the Louvre For Kids

     

    Tip #1:  Buy Skip the Line Louvre Tickets Online in Advance

    We booked a 9:30 am entry on our first morning in Paris directly through the Louvre’s website.   Pre-booked adult tickets cost €17 each, which is just slightly more than the €15 entrance fee for tickets purchased at the museum.  All visitors under age 18 are free.  Considering admission for our family of five to almost any US museum seems to cost at least $75, €34 to visit the Louvre seemed like an absolute bargain, and we didn’t think twice about the extra €4 necessary for advanced booking.

    Tip #2:  Eat Before Arriving at the Louvre With Children

    The Louvre requires a good bit of walking.  It is important to arrive with children who are well rested and well fed.  We stopped at Franprix for a delicious breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice and amazing bread and pastries.  We didn’t stop to eat at one of the Louvre’s cafes or restaurants during the three hours we spent there, choosing not to risk long lines and instead enjoyed lunch at a British pub during England’s Quarterfinal World Cup match afterwards.

     

    Tip #3:  Arrive at the Louvre Early or Late

    Our flight arrived in Paris in the evening, and in hindsight, it may have been a bit ambitious to plan a 9:30 am museum arrival the next morning. But, we had a full night of sleep and arrived at the Louvre on time.  We definitely noticed that the Louvre became much busier by late morning.   The Louvre is also open until 9:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays, and it is typically less crowded during those evening hours.   When planning a Paris itinerary, note that the Louvre is closed on Tuesdays, January 1, May 1 and December 25.

    We entered through the Louvre Pyramid, the iconic glass and metal pyramid that was designed by the Chinese-American architect I.M. Pei and completed in 1989.  The Pyramid and underground lobby were created so that the Louvre could better accommodate its increasing number of daily visitors.  The Pyramid was designed for 4.5 million annual visitors, and the underground lobby had to be redesigned between 2014 and 2017 when the number of annual visitors rose from 4.5 million to over 8 million.  We talked about how I.M. Pei also designed the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame’s pyramid in Cleveland as we entered.

    View from inside the Louvre's Pyramid
    View from inside the Louvre Pyramid

    Tip #4: Bring the Stroller to the Louvre

    Even though it was necessary at times to carry our stroller up or down a flight of stairs, it’s understandable considering the building dates back to the late 12th century.  Nonetheless, the Louvre Museum gets high marks for being stroller friendly.   When we arrived at the Pyramid, we noticed separate lines for pre-booked tickets and visitors needing to purchase tickets from the box office, but neither had much of a line when we arrived.  It didn’t matter because as soon as the guard saw our stroller, he ushered us through the middle of the two entrances to wait for the next circular open air hydraulic elevator into the museum.  Our kids thought this was the coolest elevator we have ever been inside of and thought it looked like it belonged on a futuristic spaceship.

    Strollers are welcome throughout the museum, and we rarely felt crowded.  Elevators in the Louvre are reserved for the disabled (including children in strollers) and their accompanying parties.  This is in stark contrast to Versailles where we had to check our stroller at left luggage before entering the Palace and the Vatican where wall to wall visitors in many galleries made it extremely hard to maneuver the stroller and where we were not permitted to use the elevators, which were reserved for those in wheelchairs only.

    Tip #5:  Don’t Forget the Louvre Map

    The Louvre exhibits are seemingly endless.  It’s absolutely massive and not possible to explore every exhibit in a single day. It is essential to bring a map and formulate a game plan.  We should have downloaded and printed the Louvre interactive floorplan in advance, but we picked up a map underneath the Pyramid first thing.

    Tip #6:  Use Rick Steves as a Tour Guide at the Louvre

    We traveled with Rick Steves’ Paris guide, which includes a 30 page annotated tour of the Louvre.  This guide was perfect for us.  I read Steves’ descriptive overviews about an exhibit or selected major works for my husband and kids and found that it provided the perfect nugget of information to help enhance the experience for our whole family.  We otherwise would not have noticed the S-curve in Venus de Milo‘s back and the seam at her hips.  We also made sure to examine the glass case next to Winged Victory of Samothrace with her outstretched thumb and finger, which was discovered in the 1950s.

    Tip #7:  Prioritize the Big Three at the Louvre

    I vividly remember visiting the Louvre on my college backpacking trip and following pictures directing me to Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Winged Victory of Samothrace.  These seem to be on everyone’s Louvre must see list.  Because the Louvre is enormous, it takes some time to just navigate to each, but make sure not to rush through the amazing galleries along the way.

    We started in the Sully Wing and first visited the Near Eastern Antiquities, which was impressive and not very crowded at all.  My favorite was the Frieze of Archers from the fifth or sixth century B.C.

    We then visited the Egyptian galleries before reaching the Gallery of Statues with perfect anatomic Greek sculptures in natural poses.   Athena of Velletri stands at one side and Venus de Milo at the other.  Athena of Velletri is a Roman replica of a Greek statue that dates from the 5th century B.C.  Venus de Milo is an ancient Green sculpture created between 130 and 100 B.C.  I love the juxtaposition of the goddesses of wisdom and beauty.

    The statue of Athena of Velletri at the Louvre
    Athena of Velletri
    The statue of Venus de Milo at the Louvre
    Venus de Milo

    We then headed into the Denon Wing to Winged Victory of Samothrace, which dates back to about 190 BC.  This winged-woman standing on a ship commemorated a naval victory.   I love that this massive statue is exhibited in a large open area with high ceilings rather than crammed into a gallery.  We had a discussion about how fragile arms are on ancient statues and how they were often broken and lost.

    Statue of WInged Victory of Samothrace at the Louvre
    Winged Victory of Samothrace

    The Louvre statues were particularly impressive due to their age and preservation.

    Of the “Big Three”, we visited the Mona Lisa last and realized when we saw the crowd that we should have made a b-line for this gallery as soon as we arrived.

     

    Tip #8:  Be Prepared for Mona Lisa‘s Paparazzi at the Louvre

    Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa is virtually synonymous with the Louvre.  This early 16th century Italian Renaissance painting has been on display in the Louvre since 1797.  While the Louvre generally did not seem crowded on our Saturday morning visit, visitors line up to see the Mona Lisa, protected by bullet proof glass and guarded by guards.  It took us several minutes to work our way up to the front of the crowd to get a picture of her famous smirk.

    The word “paparazzi” comes to mind, and yes, Mona Lisa is much smaller than anyone expects (only about 21 inches by 30 inches!).

     It doesn’t help that the Louvre’s largest painting,  Paolo Veronese’s The Wedding Feast at Cana, is displayed on the opposite wall.  I was drawn to Veronese’s massive canvas and surprised at how little attention it received as the visitors focused solely on Mona Lisa.  The unexpected Venetian setting made me more excited about our upcoming trip to Venice a few days later.  The juxtaposition of these two paintings definitely was one of the most interesting parts of the Louvre.

    Even though I saw Mona Lisa 21 years ago, it was simultaneously exhilarating and slightly underwhelming to visit her on this trip.  Nevertheless, Mona Lisa was the most memorable part of our Louvre visit for our kids.  They remember the crowd, her auspicious smile and The Wedding Feast at Cana on the opposite wall.  My son is convinced she’s planning something evil.

     

    Tip #9:  Don’t Forget to Look Up While Visiting the Louvre

    Some of the most memorable art is located on the gallery ceilings.  It’s easy to be so mesmerized by the art on the wall and not fully appreciate the architecture and ceiling art.

     

    Tip #10:  Take Forced Perspective Pictures in front of the Pyramid at the Louvre

    The Louvre’s Pyramid is not only a world-renowned architectural icon but also a great place to take a forced perspective picture.  There are a number of strategically placed pedestals in front of the Pyramid to make it easier to capture the perfect shot, which we most certainly used.

    We loved our family trip to Paris and recommend the Louvre for kids.  Make sure to check out our posts on Planning a Trip to Paris, Top 25 Attractions in Paris for Families, Visiting the Eiffel Tower as well as our other posts about Paris!

  • Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Looking for a destination in the heart of Tuscany?  We recommend a weekend trip to Florence.  This capital of Tuscany and birthplace of the Renaissance was my introduction to Italy as a college backpacker years ago, and I was so excited take my kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) on a holiday in Florence this past summer during a 10-day family tour of Italy.  We visited during a particular hot weekend halfway through our European summer vacation after visiting Paris, Venice, Pisa and San Gimignano.  While there are so many things to do in Florence, we uncharacteristically chose not to tour any museums, royal residences or historical buildings.  Instead, we spent our weekend in Florence roaming around and enjoying the unique architecture and atmosphere.  While tours of the Uffizi, Accademia Gallery and Pitti Palace are almost certain to be on our itinerary the next time we visit, there was no shortage of sights to see in this very walkable city.  Our list of the best things to do in Florence with kids includes iconic sights and hidden gems.

     

    Top 10 Sights in Florence For Kids

      

    #1:  Duomo With Kids (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore)

    Florence’s Duomo, located in the center of the city, is the world’s third largest church, dwarfed only by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.   Its neo-Gothic facade, which is decorated with pink, green and white Tuscan marble, was added in the 19th century and is brilliantly ornate.  It may be my favorite church exterior in the entire world, and I could spend hours examining its details.

    The Duomo’s dome was an impressive architectural feat.  Plans included a dome, even though the architects were not sure how to construct it.  The only dome on this scale was in Rome’s Pantheon, which was over 1,000 years old, and the building method had been long since forgotten.  Filippo Brunellschi studied the Pantheon to design the Duomo’s dome.  His plans involved the construction of both an inner dome and an outer dome.

    The Duomo’s dome

    While we did not make it inside on our last visit due to the long line, we planned to attend Sunday morning Mass at the Duomo during this visit.  Like many other cathedrals, the Duomo is foremost a religious building that just happens to also be a popular tourist attraction.  There were no admission fees or lines to attend Mass.  The Mass times posted online were not exactly accurate, so instead of arriving 15 minutes early for Mass, we ended up 15 minutes late but still welcome.  At the end of Mass, which was completely in Italian, the priest welcomed English-speaking visitors and briefly summarized the readings and his homily.  Attending Mass while traveling is a tradition for our family, and we’ve heard Masses in several foreign languages, and we all really appreciated and enjoyed this English greeting.

    The Duomo’s interior

    The interior of the Duomo is not as impressive as its exterior.  Large portions of the walls are painted white, and the stained glass windows are significantly smaller than those of other major cathedrals in Europe. Brunellschi’s 330-foot red brick dome was certainly an architectural masterpiece, but its mosaics are not as ornate as those that adorn the dome at St. Peter’s Basilica.  It’s still impressive and beautiful, just a bit underwhelming, especially when compared with interiors of other major European cathedrals.

    The interior of the dome
    • Duomo Facts for Kids:  The Duomo’s iconic dome was the first Renaissance dome and served as a model for many other domes, including St. Peter’s Basilica.

     

    #2:  Piazza del Duomo With Kids

    Piazza del Duomo is always crowded with the hustle and bustle of tourists and locals.  Because the square is relatively small, it’s hard to get a good view of the entire Duomo and the surrounding buildings, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower from street level.

    The octagonal Florence Baptistery was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries in Florence Romanesque style.  It is known for its three stunning 14th and 15th century doors.  Michelangelo nicknamed Lorenzo Ghiberti’s east doors the “Gates of Paradise.”  The Baptistery is a truly beautiful building, but it’s size seems to be disproportionate with the Duomo.  Their proximity really makes it hard to really appreciate each building for its own beauty, and we all wished they could be more spread out like Pisa’s Field of Miracles, which showcases its cathedral, baptistery and tower with an enormous square and pristine grass.

    The Giotto’s Bell Tower is another popular sight, and visitors can climb 414 to the top and get a close-up view of Brunelleschi’s dome.  We did not visit the interiors of either on this trip.

    • Piazza del Duomo Facts for Kids:  Lorenzo Ghiberti won a competition to design the Baptistery’s north doors, beating Donotello and  Brunelleschi.  The north doors took him 21 years to complete but were so impressive that he was asked to design the east doors, which face the Duomo.

     

    #3:  Ponte Vecchio With Kids

    Ponte Vecchio (or “Old Bridge”), Florence’s oldest and most famous bridge, is enclosed and lined with shops.  A bridge has been located on this site since 966, and the current stone, pedestrian bridge was completed in 1345.

    Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge across the Arno River to survive German’s World War II retreat on August 8, 1944.  There are many theories on why it wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis who blew up ancient buildings on either end to block it off.  Nazi officials may have saved it due to its age and beauty, or possibly it was saved because it was not considered a defensive asset.  Now, it is a popular tourist sight, with shops lining both sides.  Personally, I think that the view from Ponte Vecchio may be as beautiful of the bridge itself.

    • Ponte Vecchio Facts for Kids:   While butcher shops were originally located in Ponte Vecchio, Ferdinand I evicted them in the 16th century because he didn’t like the stench that emanated into Pitti Palace from their shops.  It is now a popular place to purchase jewelry.

     

    #4:  David Replica With Kids

    Michelangelo’s David replica statue may be one of the world’s most famous copies.  This marble statue depicts the Biblical hero who is known for defeating Goliath.  David is an iconic Renaissance sculpture, originally designed as a symbol of Florentine freedom to be placed on the Duomo’s roof line but ultimately placed at the entrance of the Town Hall upon completion.  After 350 years being exposed to the elements, David was moved to the Accademia Gallery in 1873 to protect it from damage.  A copy was placed in Piazza della Signoria in 1910.

    Michelangelo was raised in Florence, and his works were a highlight of our visits in Florence and Rome.  Michelangelo sculpted David in his late 20s as a symbol of Florentine freedom right before he was commissioned to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.  David and Pieta, which we saw at St. Peter’s Basilica a few days later, are probably Michelangelo’s two most well-known statues.

    • David Replica Facts:  David was originally intended to be installed in the Duomo’s roofline.  On November 12, 2010, a fiberglass replica was installed at the Duomo for one day.

     

    #5:  Piazza della Signoria With Kids

    Piazza della Signoria is the city’s main square, where its town hall, Palazzo Vecchio, the David replica and Fountain of Neptune are located.  The Fountain of Neptune was closed for restorations after vandalism during our 2007 visit and again under renovation during this visit but is scheduled to be reopened by the end of 2018.

    Palazzo Vecchio was constructed at the turn of the 14th century.  Duke Cosimo I and the Medici family made it their home in the 16th century.  I love that the Tower is unexpectedly slightly off-center.

    This castle-like fortress now serves as Florence’s Town Hall.  There was no charge (or line) to enter the ground-floor courtyard, so we took a quick peek inside.

    The Loggia dei Lanzi is a building on the corner of the Piazza del Signoria with wide arches open to the square at street level.

    • Piazza della Signoria Facts:  The Tower is not symmetrical with the rest of the Palazzo Vecchio because the ancient tower of The Vacca was incorporated into the palace’s design.

     

    #6:  Santa Croce Church With Kids

    The Basilica of Santa Croce is the world’s largest Franciscan church and located in the Piazza Santa Croce, only 800 meters from the Duomo.  Santa Croce was designed by architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who went on to design the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio.  Santa Croce was built between 1294 and 1442, and is the burial place for Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Ghiberti and Rossini.  Like the Duomo, the Basilica of Santa Croce features a 19th century neo-Gothic marble facade.  The Star of David is a focal point of the facade.  Santa Croce was featured in E.M. Forester’s A Room With a View and was the main impetus for my college visit to Florence because the book was one of my companion’s favorites.

    We did not tour the interior of Santa Croce because we really only had one full day to explore Florence, it was really hot, and we were a bit worried about church fatigue before heading to Rome.  We enjoyed the view of Santa Croce from Piazza Santa Croce, which is much larger than that square surrounding the Duomo.

    • Santa Croce Church Facts for Kids:  Piazza Santa Croce is a major gathering spot in Florence and was covered with 15 feet of water on November 4, 1966 when the Arno River flooded.

     

    #7:  Church of Santa Maria Novella With Kids

    The Church of Santa Maria Novella was built for the Dominican order in the late 13th and 14th centuries.  Its green and white marble facade is original 15th century artistry.  Santa Maria Novella remains the home of the Dominican order and the centerpiece of the adjacent square.  We did not visit the interior, which houses the Trinita, the first painting that featured linear mathematical perspective.

    • Church of Santa Maria Novella Facts for Kids:  Santa Maria Novella is adjacent to Florence’s train station, which is named after the church, and sometimes shortened to Florence SMN.

     

    #8:  Fort Belvedere With Kids

    Fort Belvedere is the largest fortress in Florence.  It is located across the Arno River from the central part of the city and on the highest hill of the Boboli Gardens.  I clearly remember the amazing panoramic view from my college visit and return 10-years later while visiting Florence with friends.

    Our pre-kids visit to Fort Belvedere

    Fort Belvedere is my favorite place to view Florence’s city center, and especially the Duomo, which rises far above the rest of the skyline.

    • Fort Belvedere Facts for Kids:  Fort Belvedere gained world-wide notoriety after Kim Kardashian and Kanye West rented it for their 2014 wedding for the reported sum of $400,000.

     

    #9:  Boboli Gardens With Kids

    Boboli Gardens are the gardens of the Pitti Palace.  They were constructed in the 16th century for Duchess Elenora of Toledo, who married Cosimo I of the Medici family.  Because we visited Florence on an extremely hot weekend, we came to the Boboli Gardens in search of a park bench in the shade with a view.  Adult tickets cost €10 each, and the kids were free.  We were sadly disappointed to find very few benches, and none in the shade.  We had to settle for taking a seat on a step of a staircase that had a magnificent view, but little shade and few benches.

    View of Pitti Palace and Fountain of Neptune

    Fort Belvedere is a steep hike from the Boboli Gardens.  We just couldn’t manage more walking on the hot day we visited, so we settled for the view from the entrance to the Boboli Gardens, which isn’t quite as detailed, but still shows the Duomo’s impressive scale over the Florence skyline.

    View of Florence from the Boboli Gardens
    • Boboli Gardens Facts for Kids:  At the time that Elenora married Cosimo I, the Medici family was in danger of becoming extinct.  Elenora had eleven children to protect the family’s future.  Clearly, she needed an amazing garden to relax.

     

    #10:  Piazza della Repubblica With Kids

    Piazza della Repubblica is located on the site the original Roman Forum.  The triumphal arch was constructed in the nineteenth century to celebrate Italy’s unification.

    The 20-horse antique carousel of the Picci family is now a centerpiece to this public space.

    • Piazza della Repubblica Facts:  The English translation of the arch’s inscription is “The ancient centre of the city restored from age-old squalor to new life.”

     

    A Trip With Kids to Florence, Italy

    There are so many fun things to do in Florence with kids, and this list just scratch the surface.  There were so top attractions in Florence that we definitely recommend a short trip.  Planning an Italian holiday?  Check out our listing of all posts featuring Italian destinations.  

  • Visiting the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Visiting the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Thank you to the Palace of Versailles for providing complimentary tickets for my family.  As always, all opinions are my own. 

    The Palace of Versailles definitely earns its title as the world’s most spectacular palace.  Versailles was France’s royal palace from the late seventeenth century until the French Revolution and is certainly the most opulent building I’ve ever toured and the clearest symbol of royal excess.  A visit to the Versailles Palace was high on the to do list during our visit to Paris with our three kids, ages 3, 8 and 10.  Although it did require a trip out of the city center, we really enjoyed visiting the Palace of Versailles with kids.

    A Tour of Versailles With Kids

    The Palace of Versailles and its Louises

    The Chateau de Versailles was completed in 1682 during the reign of Louis XIV.   The Sun King’s reign began when he was only four years old and lasted 72 years, making him the longest recorded monarch in Europe.  Louis XIV enjoyed Versailles as a primary residence for over 30 years until his death in 1715.  Because Louis XIV’s eldest son and eldest grandson, each also named Louis, both predeceased him, the Sun King’s five year old great-grandson, Louis XV succeeded him.  The reign of Louis XV lasted 59 years.  Louis XV’s eldest son (yup, another Louis) predeceased him , and so Louis XV was succeeded by his grandson, Louis XVI.  These combined six Louises each married a woman named Marie or Maria, except the Louis XV’s son, who married one of each.  The seventeenth and eighteenth century members of the French royal family were clearly imaginative when it came to names….

    Bernini’s Bust of Louis XIV in the Salon of Diana

    The Palace of Versailles remained the principal residence of France’s royal family until the royal family was evicted by royal protesters at the beginning of the French Revolution in 1789.  A few months later, Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were famously beheaded in the Place de la Concorde. Versailles was opened as a museum in 1837.  In addition to its stunning Baroque architecture, Versailles includes 700 rooms, 5,000 pieces of antique furniture and 6,000 notable paintings.  Its estimated value is over $50 billion.

     

    Getting to the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Versailles is about a 35-45 minute train ride outside of Paris on the RER train, which is somewhat more complicated to navigate than the Metro.  We found this guide very helpful for step by step directions.  We purchased round trip tickets for two adults (€7.10 each) and two children (€3.55 each) to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche at the Chatelet les Halles Metro station.  Our three year old daughter did not require a ticket.  The four of us each received two tickets (one for our journey there and one for our return) and were careful to keep the two sets separate before we began our journey.  We traveled by Metro one stop on the B5 Metro to St. Michel – Notre Dame where we transferred to the RER-C.  The screens on the platform clearly identified the upcoming train schedule, and we waited for a train indicating a stop at Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche, Versailles Chat or Versailles RG (not Versailles-Chantier or Versailles-Rive Droit).  By the time the train to Versailles arrived at the platform, there was definitely a crowd of waiting tourists.

    Once we arrived at the Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche station, we crossed the street at the pedestrian cross walk and turned right onto the pedestrian pathway leading to the Palace.

    Pedestrian walkway to the Palace of Versailles

     

    A Family Visit to the Palace of Versailles 

    Although Sunday is typically the most crowded day at Versailles, it was the only day that worked on our Paris itinerary for us to visit.  Our day at Versailles also happened to be the hottest day during our time in Paris.  We arrived at about 10 am and were amazed at the length of the line to purchase tickets and also the security line, which was about two hours long and without shade.  Although the Royal Gate, which is decorated with 100,000 gold leaves with the Palace behind, is a breathtaking sight, we were very grateful to have expedited entry on this hot morning.

    The Royal Gate

    Strollers are not permitted in the Palace, so we checked our daughter’s stroller at the free left luggage facility and then proceeded into the Palace where we picked up free audioguides (available for guests ages eight and over only) on the way into the Palace where we immediately ran into a costumed Louis XIV and his entourage.  The Palace was extremely packed.  Although not quite the shoulder to shoulder crowd that we found in the Vatican Museums, it was challenging at times for the five of us to stay together and to focus on the informative audioguide while absorbing these incredible rooms.  My three year old daughter asked to be carried at times, but the knowledge that princesses had lived in the Palace held her interest, and she enjoyed wandering from room to room.

    Statue of Louis XIV in the Salon of Venus and the Versailles crowds

    My favorite room in the Palace was the Hall of Mirrors, which is 236 feet long with 17 arched windows and 17 beveled mirrors.  I imagined Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette’s basking in the glory of this room during their wedding reception as I walked through the Hall where the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919.

    Hall of Mirrors

    • Pro-tips:  Book a guided Palace of Versailles tour to skip the security line.  Free Wifi is available in the courtyard and in the entrance to the Gardens but is spotty.

    The Gardens of the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    It’s no surprise that Louis XIV considered the Gardens as important as the Palace.  The Gardens of Versailles are the finest  French formal gardens.  We enjoyed sneak peek views of the lavish gardens from the Palace windows.

    A room with a view

    The gardens near the Palace are a brilliant combination of color and carefully pruned trees and shrubs.  It would be a wonderful place to sit in the shade if benches and shade were more plentiful.  We enjoyed a nice stroll instead….

    Taking time to smell the flowers

    From the Palace, the Royal Drive stretches to the Grand Canal far into the horizon.  Groves expand out from either side of the Royal Drive in an elaborate grid.  Our boys decided to race each other down the Royal Drive to stretch their legs and returned desperate for water, so we headed to a snack area for drinks and ice cream.  In the meantime, my daughter stumbled on the gravel path and skinned her knee, and I discovered that I did not have any band-aids with me.  While she was reiterating that she needed a band-aid, a woman standing in front of us in the bathroom line reached into her handbag and offered her two.  Note to self: make sure to carry a stash of band aids in every handbag so that I can pay this kindness forward.

    Latona Fountain, Royal Drive and Grand Canal

    After picking up ice cream for everyone, we headed down a passage in search of a bench in the shade and were delighted to find just what we were looking for as the afternoon water display began.  The water display was part of the Garden’s Musical Fountain Shows, which feature over 50 water fountains accompanied by classical music.

    Exploring the Garden pathways

    The Fountain show was a spectacular combination of art, music, botany and architecture.

    Fountain show

    The Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette are at the far end of the Gardens, but we were too exhausted to make the hike. So, we saved those for next time….

    • Pro-tips for the Palace of Versailles: The Gardens are massive, and the pathways are made of small stones.  Sandals are doable, but with the dust, I would have preferred sneakers.  Entry to the Gardens is free except when the Musical Fountain Shows or the Musical Gardens occur.

    We definitely recommend a tour of the Palace of Versailles for kids.  Visiting Versailles and its unparalleled Palace and Gardens was a truly enchanting, bucket-list adventure.  It may have been a particularly tiring day, but one we will never forget.

    Every so often, we encounter a place that is so fabulous for those traveling with kids that it is worthy of being featured on its own. For more fabulous locations, please check out our other Spotlight features!  Also, be sure to check out all our category of posts on Paris with kids. 

  • Old Town Alexandria With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Old Town Alexandria With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Old Town Alexandria is a historic neighborhood located just a few miles south of Washington, DC. Having called Old Town Alexandria home for six years, I can say, without a doubt, that it is not only an amazing place to live, but also a fabulous place to visit. Over the years, I have encouraged many friends/family visiting from out of town to spend a few hours exploring Old Town with kids! Not only is it an incredibly family friendly place, but it is literally dripping in history and architectural design AND also incredibly dog friendly. Old Town is home to the only coffee shop I’ve ever heard of that freely allows dogs into its establishment. So, even on a crummy day, Old Town is a great place to bring your kids and furry pups for some window shopping and good eats.

    How to Get to Old Town Alexandria:

    Getting to Old Town Alexandria is not difficult. It’s a short drive down the GW Parkway from Washington, DC and if you’re flying into Reagan National Airport (DCA) and planning on using public transportation, the King Street Metro station is just two stops south of the DCA stop. Once at or near King Street (the “main drag”), you can easily take the free King Street Trolley, which travels along King Street from the metro station to the waterfront every 10-15 minutes throughout the day. There is absolutely no charge to ride the Trolley, you don’t even need to be in possession of any passes, you can simply keep an eye out for Trolley stops along King Street and hop on and off as you see fit! The Trolley also carries free copies of the Alexandria’s Visitor’s Guide as well as a map of the main business area, so it really is a great starting point for learning your way around Old Town Alexandria.

    The King Street Trolley!

    If you find yourself driving to Old Town, the cheapest parking option is simply to park 2-3 blocks north of King Street. On or in the immediate vicinity of King Street, the parking spots are metered and/or you can look for lots that provide day parking. But, if you’re looking for free parking options, just park a few blocks north of King Street and take the short stroll down. Pro Tip: If you park close to the Potomac, you can simply walk due east until you hit the waterfront and then enjoy the gorgeous scenery on your way down.

    Top Five Things to Do:

    #1: Explore the Waterfront

    Situated on the banks of the Potomac River, Old Town Alexandria is the perfect spot to enjoy the serene waters of the Potomac River. There are so many ways to enjoy the water, including water taxis and boat cruises, but my personal favorite way to experience the waterfront is to visit one of the many waterfront parks located along the Potomac and throughout Old Town.

    View of the Potomac from the north end of Founders Park

    My personal favorite waterfront park is Founders Park, which is located just three blocks north of King Street. Not only does it provide an amazing, shaded opportunity to enjoy the Potomac’s serene waters, but it also has an unleashed dog park for my four legged child AND a beach volleyball court.

    Beach volleyball at Founders Park

    On any nice day, you can find the park filled with local residents simply enjoying the outdoors. And, if you happen to be in town during Alexandria’s annual birthday celebration and firework spectacular, which always happens the weekend after the Fourth of July, it’s a perfect spot to lay down a blanket or towel and enjoy the show.

    There are a number of fenced in walk ways that are perfect for young duck feeders!

    #2: Visit Artists’ Galleries at the Torpedo Factory

    The Torpedo Factory is presently home to the nation’s largest collection of working-artists’ open studios under one roof. On the day after Armistice Day, the official end of WWI, the US Navy began construction on the Torpedo Factory which was truly intended to be responsible for the manufacture and maintenance of torpedoes for the Navy. For five years, the factory was fully operational until work stopped during and the building became a munitions storage area. During WWII, production picked up again, but eventually, the factory’s production came to a grinding halt due to the end of WWII and the United States continued to use the building for storage. For years, the factory held congressional documents, dinosaur bones, art objects, and other records.

    During a tour of the Torpedo Factory, I learned that the building really became something of a liability for the United States government and so it was “sold” to the City of Alexandria for the hefty sum of $1 in 1969. It took a few years for the city to develop a plan, but eventually the Torpedo Factory opened to the public as a working studio for artists.

    The Torpedo Factory is presently home to a large number of open artist studios and, on any given, day, its a great spot to enjoy a reprieve from the elements. Whether it’s summer or winter, the Torpedo Factory’s central location directly at the intersection of King Street and the Potomac River is a great place to seek some shade or air conditioning and to use the facilities. Pro Tip: Free, clean bathrooms available!

    My personal favorite part about the visiting the Torpedo Factory (aside from the free, clean bathrooms and air conditioning) is the local “water musician,” who can be found nearly every weekend playing his tunes just outside of the factory’s main entrance.

    If you happen to visit the Torpedo Factory, be sure to stop by and say hi to my friend Katy who runs EatsPlace Cafe & Market, a great place to grab a sandwich and cold drink (including beer)!

    #3: Experience History

    I cannot begin to do justice to the City of Alexandria’s history without turning this post into a thesis. The short story is that Native American artifacts dating to 13,200 years ago and as late as 1,600 AD have been found in Alexandria. The city has served as a tobacco trading post, one of the ten busiest ports in America, a part of the District of Columbia, the hometown of Robert E. Lee, George Washington, and a Civil War supply center for Union Troops, among others.

    In my opinion, the city has done a wonderful thing of honoring the past by preserving it for the future. There are a number of historical sites and attractions available for visiting and the city runs most of them, with available tours and special exhibits and attractions. While by no means an exhaustive list, some of my favorite sites are:

    Carlyle House Historic Park:

    This 18th century home is located one block north of King Street and is a beautiful example of Georgian residential architecture. John Carlyle was a wealthy merchant and a founder of Alexandria and the home has served as not only a private residence, but as a hospital during the Civil War and is now a museum.

    Lee Fendall House:

    The Lee Fendall House was constructed in 1985 and has housed 37 members of the Lee family, served as a convalescent home for Union soldiers during the Civil War, and has also been the price residence of many wealthy Alexandrians during its 200 year history. The home is located on the National Register of Historical Places and is a wonderful place to visit. Tours run regularly throughout the week and the museum also offers a number of special events. The home also runs an annual “candy free” Easter egg hunt, which we visited one year with our young son. I totally got a kick out of knowing that my four year old was freaking out over the Easter bunny at home that Robert E. Lee likely visited and stayed at while in command of the Confederate Army.

    The Churches:

    This may come as a surprise to many, but Alexandria is home to a surprising number of “first churches.” The historic Christ Church is located in the center of Old Town and George Washington was a founding member and rented a family pew and Robert E. Lee was a later member of the church as well.

    In addition to Christ Church, Alexandria is also home to the Basilica of Saint Mary, the first Catholic parish in Virginia/West Virginia. Legend has it that George Washington made the first contribution for the creation of the parish in the late 1700s. The Basilica is also the first to have been designated as such in the Commonwealth of Virginia, the first in the Diocese of Arlington, and the 84th in the United States.

    Last but not least, Alexandria is home to St. Joseph’s Church, the oldest black Catholic church in Virginia. Located only two blocks from our home, we frequently attended St. Joseph’s and found it to be a vibrant and welcoming parish. My husband attended an African Methodist Episcopal Church throughout college and loved the choir and worship at St. Joseph’s, which definitely had a lot more to it than our typical mass.

    Gadsby’s Tavern:

    Built in 1785, Gadsby’s Tavern was an essential part of the fiber of the City of Alexandria. George Washington visited the Tavern frequently and other prominent guests include Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, James Monroe, and yours truly, of course.

    Although the food is truly nothing to write home about, the experience of dining at Gadsby’s Tavern is a real treat. Workers still dress in period clothing and the food is designed to be “authentic” – including some of Virginia’s famous peanut soup.

    Even if you don’t have time to dine at Gadsby’s, be sure to stop by and visit the recently renovated Icehouse, which can be viewed for free from the outside rain or shine.

    The Farmer’s Market:

    The Old Town Farmers’ Market is the oldest continuously held farmers’ market in the country. Any Saturday morning, rain, sleet, or shine, you can find local farmers and artisans with their booths. Not only is it a great place to purchase fresh produce, but there are a number of local bakeries, eateries, and artisans also out selling their products.

    There are truly few things better in life than eating your way through the Farmer’s Market on a beautiful spring or fall day!

    #4: Walk the King Street Mile

    King Street is a walkable mile of over 160 independent shops and boutiques. As you may have gathered by now, King Street is the heart of Old Town and no visit to Old Town is complete without popping into at least some of the shops that make up the Old Town Boutique District.

    source: Old Town Boutique District

    Some of my favorite stores are:

    The Hour: a shop dedicated entirely to cocktail hour! Although many of the items sold here are way outside of our budget, it’s a great little place to get ideas for hosting your next cocktail hour or dinner party.

    Red Barn Mercantile: my favorite home goods store, hands down. Not only does the shop offer an great collection of candles, pillows, and other assorted home decor, but it’s a fabulous place to get Alexandria inspired items for home or gifting. I’ve purchased many candles, mugs, and other related items to give as housewarming gifts.

    Handmade and DIY Shops: Alexandria happens to be home to a number of do-it-yourself shops. My favorite store in this category is fibre space, which is hands down the best local yarn shop I have ever visited. Owner Danielle has the most amazing vision and all of the employees are not only seasoned knitters and crocheters, but are also fabulous people to boot. If yarn isn’t your cup of tea, you can opt for a sewing lesson, painting lesson, jewelry making and design course, or just a good old fashioned pottery painting session. Be sure to check out the handmade and DIY shop offerings for your next visit to Old Town!

    Pro Tip: I’ve affectionately renamed Old Town “Dog Town USA” and it’s no surprise as Alexandia is incredibly dog friendly. If you’re also traveling with your four legged child, The Alexandria is an ideal place to stay. Not only is it located in the heart of Old Town, but it offers a weekly “Yappy Hour” that we have visited with both our two legged and four legged children. Many of the shops in Old Town are pet friendly, just keep your eyes peeled for this blue sign indicating that even Fido is welcome! The dog friendly aspect of Old Town really makes this an ideal family vacation destination as there’s no need to leave your furry friend behind.

    source

    #5: Eat, Eat, and Eat some more!

    Old Town Alexandria is filled with amazing restaurants and eateries. As a rule, the further from the waterfront you get, the better the quality of the food is. That said, if you’re only in town for a short time, there’s nothing wrong with enjoying a meal at Vola’s Dockside Grill or The Chart House. I wouldn’t say that either are particularly kid friendly, though. The Chart House is definitely pricey and Vola’s is hard to manage with young children simply because it is always swamped. If you’re looking for tried and true kid-friendly dining options, our favorites:

    Eamonn’s: Amazing fish and chips. Be sure to add some extra sauces to your order.

    Pizza Paradiso: Great pizza and beer selection. I’ve maneuvered a double stroller through this place, so don’t hesitate to bring your kids!

    Virtue Feed & Grain: One of our favorite places for brunch!

    Hank’s Oyster Bar: We love the seafood, there’s a great kids menu, and my kids love that every meal starts with goldfish crackers and ends with dark chocolate chunks.

    Red Rocks Pizza: If you find yourself further away from the water when it’s chow time, Red Rocks offers great pizza and we even prefer it slightly to Pizza Paradiso.

    Bread & Chocolate: A great place for breakfast or a light lunch.

    La Madeleine: A french bakery & cafe that is also a great option for a causal breakfast or light lunch. Also a great place to pick up pastries to enjoy at home later!

    And, of course, it is nearly impossible to go to Old Town without enjoying some of the amazing desserts the town has to offer. There’s the Ben & Jerry’s just by the water, but also a number of mom & pop ice cream shops. If liquid nitrogen ice cream is your thing, be sure to check out one of the more recent additions to the Old Town dessert scene: Nicecream. There are also quite a few cupcake and chocolatiers littered throughout town, so definitely save room for dessert.

     

    We are so lucky to have called Old Town Alexandria home for six years and we hope you consider popping in for a visit on your next trip to Washington, DC. Be sure to check out our entire category of posts on things to do and places to visit in Washington, DC with kids and make sure to visit Old Town Alexandria with kids!

  • 15 Top Attractions in London for Families

    15 Top Attractions in London for Families

    London has so many of the world’s most recognizable tourist landmarks, and many of our favorites are world-famous sights that scream “photo op” while others require the better part of a day to fully explore.  Here are our 15 top attractions in London for families:

     

    Things to Do in London With Kids

     

    #1:  Big Ben and Houses of Parliament With Kids

    Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament are probably London’s most recognizable landmarks.  Big Ben was the #1 must-see on our seven year old son’s list.  We took the Underground to the Westminster Station on our first day in the city so that his very first view of central London upon emerging from the Tube would be Big Ben.  It was definitely a surreal experience that left him completely in awe.  He asked to re-visit Big Ben on our final day in London, and it remains his favorite London landmark.

    We have always enjoyed hearing Big Ben’s chimes regularly during our visits to London.  Renovation work began on the clock tower in 2017, and the bells will be silent until the early 2020s except for special occasions like New Years Eve and Remembrance Sunday.

    The House of Commons and House of Lords meet at the Houses of Parliament, which is also known as the Palace of Westminster.  The current Gothic Revival structure was designed by Charles Barry after the prior building complex was destroyed by fire in 1834.

    View from across the River Thames

    The Elizabeth Tower

    • Big Ben Facts:  Big Ben is actually the name of the bell and not the clock tower itself.  “Big Ben” honors Benjamin Hall, who was the commissioner of works when the tower was completed. The clock tower was officially designated as the Elizabeth Tower to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee in 2012.  However, I’m pretty sure that even the Queen will have trouble getting people to refer to the clock tower as anything other than Big Ben.

     

    #2:  Tower of London With Kids

    The Tower of London is a historic castle with an infamously bloody past.  If the Beefeater tour guides, inner battlements and White Tower are not enough of a draw, the Crown Jewels and Royal Armouries collection are housed here.  This may be our favorite place ever for hands on history.  Check out our Spotlight for a comprehensive overview of our day visiting the Tower.

    The White Tower

    Exploring the walls of the Tower of London

    • Tower of London Facts:  Two of King Henry VIII’s wives were executed on Tower Green.  Also, based on a superstition from over 500 years ago that the British empire would fall if ravens ever left the Tower of London, seven ravens are kept on site at all times.

    #3:  Tower Bridge With Kids

    The Tower Bridge was built in the late 19th century and specifically designed to be raised when necessary to allow ships to pass.  Most visitors aim to take photos of this iconic bridge, but make sure to check the lift schedule if you want to see the Bridge in action.

    Tower Bridge

    View of Tower Bridge from the Tower of London

    • Tower Bridge Facts:  Tower Bridge is such an iconic image of London that it is often confused with London Bridge, which is famous because of the song and not its image.  London Bridge has actually been replaced several times – the current London Bridge was completed in 1973.

     

    #4:  London Eye With Kids

    The London Eye opened in 2000 as the world’s tallest Ferris wheel to commemorate the millennium.   Passengers ride in one of 32 egg-shaped capsules that hold up to 25 people each, and the wheel turns so slowly that a single revolution takes about 30 minutes.  The London Eye offers riders an amazing view of the River Thames, Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

    It has been known as the Coca-Cola London Eye since 2015 when Coke paid an undisclosed sum for naming rights.   My husband and I rode in the London Eye in 2005 but have not yet taken the kids due to long lines and so many other attractions.

    The London Eye

    Our ride on the London Eye

    • London Eye Facts:  While three taller Ferris wheels have now surpassed the London Eye, it remains the tallest in Europe and the world’s tallest cantilevered Ferris wheel.

     

    #5:  Trafalgar Square With Kids

    Trafalgar Square is a large public space with Nelson’s Column at its center.  Nelson’s Column was constructed in the mid-19th century to honor Admiral Horatio Nelson, who died in 1805 at the Battle of Trafalgar.

    The National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery flank Trafalgar Square, and there is a view of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament down Whitehall Street.  Trafalgar Square used to be overrun with pigeons fed by tourists.  However, in recent years, feeding was banned, and birds of prey were used to further discourage pigeons.  Honestly, it’s much more pleasant to visit Trafalgar Square without the nuisance of pigeons.  Our kids particularly enjoyed the street performers (aka buskers) and had a grand time posing with each of the four metal lions at the base of Nelson’s column.  The nearest Underground Station is Charing Cross, which is what this area was called before Trafalgar Square.

    Nelson’s Column and Big Ben

    The base of Nelson’s Column is a great place to pose

    • Trafalgar Square Facts:  This area has been a landmark since the 13th century.  Original plans for redevelopment were designed by John Nash in the 19th century but redesigned by Charles Barry after Nash’s death in 1830.

     

    #6:  St. Paul’s Cathedral With Kids

    St. Paul’s Cathedral was designed by Christopher Wren and constructed at the turn of the 18th century.  The Cathedral has one of the world’s largest and most famous church domes that is modeled after the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City.  The English Baroque Cathedral is open at certain times of the day for sightseeing only and others for worship.  We really enjoyed Evensong.  Check the online schedule if you would like to attend a service.  Note photography is not permitted inside the Cathedral.

    View of St. Paul’s Cathedral from Tate Modern

    • St. Paul’s Cathedral Facts:  Prince Charles married Princess Diana at St. Paul’s Cathedral in 1981.

     

    #7:  Buckingham Palace With Kids

    Buckingham Palace is Queen Elizabeth II’s official London residence.  During our last visit, we watched the Changing of the Guard, which occurs at 11:00 a.m. in the spring and summer months according to this schedule.  The Palace Guards dressed in scarlet tunics and black fury hats perform a musical military ceremony as they parade from Wellington Barracks to Buckingham Palace.  It’s necessary to arrive early to stake out a good spot to watch the 30-minute ceremony.

    Completely coincidentally, my sister and her family also scheduled a trip to the UK that overlapped ours.  We were able to meet them at the Changing of the Guard.  It was a pretty amazing experience for the six cousins to spend a day exploring London together.

    Buckingham Palace

    Changing of the Guard

    Cousins taking a stroll from Buckingham Palace to Trafalgar Square

    • Buckingham Palace Facts:  If Queen Elizabeth II is at home in Buckingham Palace, the Royal Standard flag flies on the roof.

     

    #8:  Westminster Abbey With Kids

    Westminster Abbey has been the site of all of England’s royal coronations since William the Conqueror back in 1066.  It is also the setting for royal weddings and funerals.  The current Gothic structure was completed in the 16th century.  The Abbey is open for worship and tours.

    Photo credit:  PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay

    • Westminster Abbey Facts:  Princess Diana’s 1997 funeral took place in Westminster Abbey, loosely based on plans prepared in case of the Queen Mother’s death.  Prince William and Catherine Middleton were married here in 2011.

     

    #9:  Piccadilly Circus With Kids

    Piccadilly Circus is a traffic junction that has featured illuminated advertisements since 1908 – just a few years after Times Square debuted electronic signage.  While Times Square definitely dwarfs Piccadilly, this is still my favorite street corner in London.  After a major renovation in 2017, Piccadilly Circus now features a single 4K LED digital screen.

    LED signs at Piccadilly Circus

    • Piccadilly Circus Facts: Circus means circle, and the name remained after the intersection lost its circular shape in the late 19th century when Shaftesbury Avenue was constructed.

     

    #10:  Marble Arch With Kids

    This triumphal arch was designed by John Nash as a state entrance to Buckingham Palace but moved to its current location on a large traffic island at the intersection of Oxford Street, Park Lane and Edgware Road in the 1960s.

    • Marble Arch Facts: When the Marble Arch served as Buckingham Castle’s main entrance, only senior members of the Royal Family and members of the Royal Horse Artillery and King’s Troop could pass through.  Now, it is open to everyone, and “commoners” regularly pass through.

     

    #11:  Covent Garden With Kids

    Covent Garden was the first planned square in London and was modeled on a Tuscan piazza.  The Central Market was originally a fruit and vegetable market but has now been redeveloped into shops, cafes, stalls and restaurants.

    Outside on the cobbled street, we saw a performance by contortionist Kenneth Greenaway who is popularly known as Yogi Laser.  We also watched part of Laser’s mesmerizing performance next to the River Thames earlier in the trip.

     

    #12:  10 Downing Street With Kids

    10 Downing Street is the Prime Minister’s official residence.  This Georgian townhouse is conveniently located right off of Whitehall Street on the walk from Trafalgar Square to the Houses of Parliament.  The main entry is right off the street, so even when just passing by, you often can catch comings and goings of both presumably important people and lucky visitors.  The actual entrance is cordoned off with a large iron gate.

    • 10 Downing Street Facts:  The front door has no keyhole and cannot be opened from the outside.

     

    #13:  Millennium Bridge With Kids

    The Millennium Bridge is a steel suspension bridge for pedestrian use to cross the River Thames.  The Bridge opened in 2000 to commemorate the millennium.

    • Millennium Bridge Facts:  The Millennium Bridge was closed on its opening day and remained closed for two years to make modifications to eliminate its unexpected sway.

     

    #14:  Portobello Road Market With Kids

    My husband, daughter and I met friends for a Saturday afternoon of window shopping at the Portobello Road Market while the boys spent the day with their grandparents.  There are five main sections selling second-hand goods, clothing, household goods, produce and antiques.  Saturday is the only day that all sections are open.  We passed hundreds of stalls and shops selling wares of all sorts on our relaxing afternoon.  Despite the crowds, we had no issues with our stroller, which is commonly called a pushchair in England.

    • Portobello Road Market Facts:  Much of the filming of the 1999 movie Notting Hill starring Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant took place on Portobello Road.

     

    #15:  Hamleys With Kids

    Hamleys is the world’s oldest and largest toy store in the world.  If my boys were ordering this list, Hamleys might be at the top.  They visited the Regent Street store with their grandparents, who gave them each a budget to find the perfect toy souvenir.  It took them a few hours to make their selections as they explored every square inch of store’s seven floors.

    • Hamleys Facts:  William Hamley opened a toy shop called “Noah’s Ark” in 1760.

     

    London Family Attractions

    London has so much to offer family travelers!  We loved our visits to the best attractions for families in London, England.  Make sure to check out our blog posts on London, including Our First Family Trip Abroad, Five Fun Family Museums, Five Fun Family Parks and London Itineraries (coming soon).

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  • Things to Do in York, England

    Things to Do in York, England

    York is an unparalleled medieval city and one of the few places from all of my travels that I have called home.  I studied medieval history and sociology at the University of York as an exchange student during my junior year of college.  It was during that time many moons ago that my wanderlust began.  I explored literally every nook and cranny of the city – visited every museum, bought produce at the Shambles Market, watched Hamlet in the Yorkshire Museum’s theater, peeked inside York Minster several times each week and tried out dozens of pubs.  I met life-long friends while playing cards in the common room of my residence hall and also used York as my home base while traveling around the UK on weekends and to eight other European countries during my six-week Spring break.

    York is an easy two-hour train journey on England’s Northern line from Kings’ Cross station, and I have been back four times since my semester abroad.  When we planned our last trip to London in 2015, I was ecstatic that we would be able to fit in two days and one night in York.  We booked tickets a few weeks in advance online through Grand Central Railway.  Our kids (aged 11 months, 5 and 7) thoroughly enjoyed the lovely train journey, and we fit all of our things for the quick trip into two backpacks that we tucked in our daughter’s stroller.

    Traveling by train with a table is one of the most comfortable ways to go

    Baby and luggage on board

    When orienting yourself in York, it is important to remember that streets are called gates, gates are called bars, and bars are called pubs.   Most streets end in “gate” like Fishergate, Castlegate, Fossgate and Petergate.  The four main entries into the city are called Bootham Bar, Monk Bar, Walmgate Bar and Mickelgate Bar.  And, as is common throughout the UK, the corner establishments that sell beer by the pint are called pubs.

    We stayed at the Novotel York Centre, a modern hotel just outside the city walls between the city center and the University of York.  The only downside to our trip was that it was unseasonably hot.  The Novotel was not air conditioned but luckily did offer us a fan.

    I particularly enjoyed taking the kids to visit the University of York, the guesthouse where I lived and my favorite pub, the Rose & Crown.  We stopped by on the evening we were there and found that kids were not permitted after 8 p.m.  We returned the next afternoon when the pub was practically empty and were directed to a back room.  My husband and I enjoyed some beer, but it was clear that our kids were not really welcome.  Those stops would probably not be trip highlights for families with no connection to the University.

    The architecture of the University of York, which was established in 1963, starkly contrasts that of the medieval city

    My boys playing in my old back garden

    My favorite pub from my university days

    The city offers so many great things for any family, but these are our favorite things to do in York, England.

    #1:  Relax in Museum Gardens With Kids

    Museum Gardens is a very special place – this is where my husband literally got down on one knee and asked me to marry him while surreptitiously filming with my digital camera years ago. These Gardens are known for the medieval ruins of St. Mary’s Abbey as much as they are known for the luscious green space.  When I was a university student, I walked through the gardens practically every time I went into York’s city center.  I was always in awe of the Abbey ruins, especially when they were illuminated at night.

    On our first trip to York with our children, the Museum Gardens were definitely at the top of our list.  Even though it was a quick overnight trip, we spent at least an hour relaxing in the Gardens each day.  We showed them right where their Dad proposed to me, but the exact spot was unfortunately under construction at the time.  And, the peacocks that used to roam in the Gardens have been removed since my last visit.

    It’s an amazing place to sit and think

    While climbing on medieval ruins is pretty cool, the highlight of our time in Museum Gardens was definitely the Birds of Prey Show.  Admittedly, the Birds of Prey Show more than made up for the missing peacocks.  A falconer brought six birds of prey to showcase during the free seasonal show that we happened to catch.  And, our five-year old son was chosen to hold a white barn owl, which is something he will never forget.

    The Gardens also contain the remains of the west corner of the Roman fort of Eboracum, including the Multangular Tower and parts of the Roman walls.

    The Multangular Tower with Roman stones on the lower portion

    The Yorkshire Museum is also located on the grounds and features archeology, geology, paleontology and natural history collections.

    • York Museum Gardens Facts for Kids:  If the medieval abbey ruins are not ancient enough, Museum Gardens also include the remains of a portion of a Roman fort, including the Multangular Tower and a portion of Roman wall.
    • Kid Moment:  The owl show seems to be a free seasonal attraction and was an absolute highlight of our trip to York.  Distinguishing the small Roman stones from the larger medieval ones on the Multangular Tower and adjoining wall is also a great activity.

    #2:  Evensong at York Minster With Kids

    York Minster is the largest cathedral in Northern England.  I’ve been to dozens of cathedrals, but York Minster is my hands-down favorite.  I can’t tell you how many times I’ve walked through its doors, and every time, I feel an overwhelming sense of awe at its enormity and beauty.

    The Minster’s West Window – the Heart of York

    York Minster has a way of making me feel quite small

    Because our trip was so short, and we had a baby with us, we did not take the guided tour.  Also, children must be at least eight to climb the narrow staircase to the top of the tower, so we had to save that for another trip.  We chose instead to visit during Evensong with Songmen and Choral Scholars.

    • York Minster Facts for Kids: Construction began on the Minster in the thirteenth century after at least three churches previously at this site had been destroyed.  Its classic Gothic architecture was modeled after Canterbury Cathedral (the archbishop of York is second in England only to the archbishop of Canterbury).  Its stained-glass windows are some of the best remaining examples from medieval times.  There was a disastrous fire in 1984 that badly damaged the south transept.
    • Kid Moment:  Make sure to request a free Explorer Backpack and the Blue Peter roof bosses in the south transept.  In 1986, the popular television show Blue Peter held the York Minster Contest and asked children to submit boss designs for the Minster’s vaulted ceiling.  They are the only cathedral designs I have ever seen created by children.

    Roof bosses, including those designed by winners of the Blue Peter Contest

    Downton Abbey fans will notice that the York Minster makes several cameo appearances in the series, which is set in Yorkshire.

    #3:  Climb Clifford’s Tower With Kids

    Clifford’s Tower is a tower that sits on top of a small hill and is reminiscent of Monty Python movies.  It is the largest remaining portion of the castle originally built on this site by William the Conqueror.  There isn’t much to see inside the Tower, but it does offer the best view of York.  We arrived after it closed, but the kids enjoyed running up the hill to get a closer view.

    Clifford’s Tower

     

    We reached the top

    Below Clifford’s Tower is the York Castle Museum that allows visitors to step back into time and experience everyday life in earlier centuries.  While it is named in honor of the castle that used to sit on this site, it is housed in prison buildings constructed in the 18th century.

    The Castle Museum

    • Clifford’s Tower Facts for Kids:  Clifford’s Tower is the only remaining portion of York Castle.  In 1190, about 150 Jews died inside the previous timber tower that stood on this hill – most from mass suicide to avoid being murdered.  The current stone tower dates from the 13th century.
    • Kid Moment:  My kids particularly enjoy towers in general, but the added excitement of the hill and stairs made Clifford’s Tower especially fun.
    • Kid Caution:  Clifford’s Tower is definitely not stroller accessible.

    #4:  Walk on the York City Walls With Kids

    Since Roman times, cities were walled as a defense mechanism.  York’s city walls are more intact than any other city in England and recently ranked by CNN as the third best medieval walled city in the world.  There are some remains of the Roman brickwork, as well as Norman and medieval portions with modern renovations.

    Visitors can access the remaining portions of the city walls by climbing the stairs at each of the four Bars.  The entire circuit is 4.5 miles, and the best stretch is between Bootham Bar and Monk Bar.

    Walmgate Bar is the only city gate in England with a working barbican, a fortified outpost of gateway.  Unfortunately, the 12th century stone archway did not contemplate the size of modern vehicles, and there are regularly accidents.  This is how it looked in 2015, and how I generally remember it.  I think a truck tried to drive through days after it was re-opened when I lived there.

    Walmgate Bar, the city gate closest to the University of York

    • York City Walls Facts for Kids:  Very little of the Roman walls remain, but the current 13th-century walls were built right on top of the Roman ones.
    • Kid Moment:  We imagined what it would be like to be a castle guard scanning the horizon for enemy forces as we walked along the walls.
    • Kid Caution:  Like Clifford’s Tower, the city walls are definitely not stroller accessible.

    #5:  Stroll Down the Shambles With Kids

    The Shambles is a very old and narrow street with overhanging timber buildings lining each side.  The architecture is classic 15th century Tudor.  Its name comes from “shamel,” meaning either slaughterhouse or the stalls or benches used to display meat.  In 1862, there were 26 different butcher shops on this small, cobbled pedestrian street.  The first-floor shops that used to be occupied by butchers are now predominately used as souvenir shops and cafes.  There are so many charming and irresistible shops in York’s city center.  Many people believe that the Shambles was an inspiration for Harry Potter‘s Diagon Alley.  Find out more about the Shambles and its recent wizarding shops.

    We caught the Shambles at a quiet moment, but it is usually crowded with tourists

    • Shambles Facts for Kids:  One advantage of the cantilevered buildings is that it maximizes available space without obstructing the street.
    • Kid Moment:  With the narrow street and the overhanging buildings, it is fun to stand in the middle of the street and look up.

    York is a great destination for families to get a chance to experience a bit of medieval times (and not the dinner theater variety).  Our trip was so short that we didn’t have a chance to make a day trip from York, but we hope to next time for sure.  Planning a family trip to England?  Check out all our posts on England and London.

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  • Chicago With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Chicago With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Chicago is a city of iconic architecture, stunning lake views, renowned museums and recent renovation practically everywhere.  With its metropolitan atmosphere and dash of Midwestern charm, Chicago is not surprisingly one of our favorite cities.  It is a quick flight away from Cleveland, so we are lucky to visit the Windy City almost every year and have taken children aged two months to five years.  We are definitely planning a long overdue Chicago trip with all three kids in 2018.

    When traveling to Chicago by plane, there is easy access to downtown on the “El” (elevated) train from Midway on the Orange Line or O’Hare on the Blue Line.  We usually arrive at Midway during morning rush hour and always take the El downtown.  Once downtown, we walk almost everywhere or occasionally take an Uber.

    We have stayed in many hotels in Chicago, but here are a few of our centrally-located favorites:

    • The Ritz Carlton, Chicago – This is probably my favorite hotel in the US.  It is located in the Water Tower Place right next to the John Hancock Center on the Magnificent Mile and has indoor access to the mall.  The rooms are impeccable, and the lobby is an absolute delight.  The hotel completed a $100 million renovation in July 2017, and its delightful lobby has been completely transformed.  The fountain was replaced with a floor to ceiling art installation.
    • Palmer House – A Hilton Hotel – We have stayed at this historic hotel several times.  It is located in the center of the Loop and was also recently renovated.  The lobby magnificently maintains its original splendor with a stunning mural on the ceiling and seems right out of Downton Abbey.
    • Hyatt Regency Chicago – This is Chicago’s largest hotel with comfortable guest rooms located in two towers.  Also recently renovated, the lobby features BIG Bar’s stunning liquor tower.

    There are so many fun family activities in Chicago, but here are our top five.

    #1: Navy Pier

    With about 9 million visitors each year, Navy Pier is a major Chicago tourist attraction.  It’s a bit of a hike to get there from downtown, so we hopped on one of the seasonal free trolleys after dinner on our last night in Chicago.

    The Pier was constructed in 1916 as a commercial-shipping pier and redesigned as a tourist attraction in 1995.   The Ferris wheel is the obvious centerpiece of the Pier.  We enjoyed a night ride in 2013 on the pictured Ferris wheel that was retired in 2015.  The new bigger and better $26.5 million DW60 opened in May 2016.

    The carousel on the Pier was a big hit with our kids.  We were lucky that there was almost no line, and we able to ride many times in a row.

    Navy Pier offers fun for all ages, including a mall, the IMAX Theatre, the Chicago Children’s Museum, a house-maze, the Smith Museum of Stained Glass Windows, the Chicago Shakespeare Theatre and an 18-hole minigolf course in the summer.  You’ll also find the expected souvenir shops, restaurants and bars.

    #2:  River Cruise

    Chicago architecture was world-famous long before the Trump International Hotel and Tower became the fourth tallest building in the world upon its completion in 2009.  The city practically had a blank slate after the Great Chicago Fires of 1871.  Chicago’s architectural icons include the skyscrapers such as the Willis Tower (the world’s tallest building from 1974-1998 and formerly known as the Sears Tower) and the John Hancock Center, the neo-Gothic Tribune Tower (home of the Chicago Tribune), Frank Lloyd Wright’s Rookery Building, the art deco Merchandise Mart and the mixed-use Marina City with an exposed parking ramp that has been likened to Sagrada Familia.

    With many of the landmark buildings located along the river, several tour companies offer architectural river boat tours.  The most popular is offered through a partnership between the Chicago Architecture Foundation and Chicago’s First Lady Cruises.  We planned to take that tour with our three and five year old sons but waffled after learning that children are discouraged and also require a full price ticket.  We opted for the more family-friendly Mercury Skyline Cruiseline, which offers a narrated architectural tour and a bit of cruising on Lake Michigan.

    Trump Tower

    Marina City Towers

    City view from Lake Michigan

    #3:  The Field Museum of Natural History

    The Field Museum is one of the world’s largest natural history museums.  It opened in 1893 and was named to honor its first major benefactor, Marshall Field, the founder of the Chicago-based department store who donated $1 million to the Museum in 1894.  It is located on Museum Campus along Lake Michigan.

    The Field Museum boasts one of the world’s best dinosaur collections.  Sue, the world’s most complete Tyrannosaurus Rex skeleton, has been prominently displayed in the main hall of the Museum since 2000.  However, Sue will be moved upstairs in early 2018 when a cast of the world’s largest dinosaur, which was found in 2014, moves in.

    With two young boys who were excited about prehistoric creatures, we definitely did not miss the dinosaur exhibit.

    We also explored an Egyptian tomb in the three-story Inside Ancient Egypt exhibit.  This exhibit includes one of the world’s largest collections of human mummies.  This was our boys’ first exposure to Egypt, but they were fascinated and have since enjoyed Egyptian exhibits at the National Museum of Natural History and the Cleveland Museum of Art.

    As members of the ASTC Passport Program, we also enjoyed free admission with our reciprocal membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History.

    #4:  Adler Planetarium

    Our kids love space as much as they love dinosaurs.  My older son wanted to be an astronaut through pre-school and had a great time visiting the Adler Planetarium.  The Adler Planetarium was the first planetarium in the western hemisphere and named for philanthropist Max Adler, who donated funds after visiting a planetarium in Munich.  The beautiful stone building houses many interactive exhibits and three theaters, including the most technologically enhanced planetarium theater and a high-definition 3D theater.

    Our boys enjoyed the interactive exhibits focusing on the planets, solar system and space exploration, and, of course, the planetarium show.  As members of the Association of Science-Technology Center’s (ASTC) Passport Program, we also received free admission with our reciprocal membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History.  However, we did have to pay extra to attend the theater show.

    At the tip of Museum Campus, the Adler Planetarium boasts one of the best views of the Chicago skyline. 

    #5:  Millennium Park 

    Millennium Park was designed in the late 1990s to honor the third millennium.  Construction costs ballooned from $150 million to $475 million, and the opening was delayed until 2004. Today, the park is a widely popular destination for both Chicago residents and tourists and attracts over 25 million people each year.

    The centerpiece of Millennium Park is the Jay Pritzker Pavilion, a bandshell used for outdoor music performances.  The Pavilion was designed by Frank Gehry using his characteristic curved stainless steel plates and features a sound system designed to replicate the sound experience of an indoor concert hall.

    Cloud Gate is a public sculpture located at the center of AT&T Plaza in Millennium Park and nicknamed “the Bean” because its shape.  The Bean is created with stainless steel plates that have been welded together and highly polished so that there are no visible seams.  Sir Anish Kapoor designed the sculpture to resemble liquid mercury and the sculpture’s curved surface creates a distorted reflection of the city’s skyline. Construction costs escalated way above the original estimate of $6 million and ultimately cost almost four times that amount.  The Bean was privately funded through donations and unveiled in 2006.  This is a highly interactive sculpture that visitors are encouraged to touch, and it is so popular that we have never been able to get a picture without also capturing dozens of other visitors.

    Baby meets the Bean

    Skyline reflection

    Visitors can walk underneath the Bean

    Chicago is an amazing city to visit that definitely offers something for everyone.

  • Los Angeles With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Los Angeles With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    Los Angeles has so many great attractions for kids – even if Disneyland is not on your itinerary.  During my recent trip to L.A. with my mom and son, we had only two days in the city.  Due to centrally located accommodation and easy transportation, we were able to maximize our time and fit in these fun family activities.

    #1:     Santa Monica Pier

    The Santa Monica Pier was my favorite spot in Los Angeles.  It may be because I’m a Midwesterner, but I try to find a way to make it to a beach anytime I travel near the ocean or sea.  In Santa Monica, the Pier adds a great deal of excitement to the otherwise typical Pacific beach.  The original pier opened in the early 20th century, and the amusement park followed a few years later.  The Santa Monica Pier Aquarium – Heal the Bay was just closing when we arrived, but we would have loved to check it out. Pacific Park, the amusement park, features the world’s first and only solar paneled ferris wheel and eleven other rides, including a roller coaster.  In a city known for Disneyland, it is notable that Pacific Park is the only admission-free amusement park in the city.  Pacific Park is free to enter, but you do pay for ride tickets.  I particularly loved how the bright colors of Pacific Park popped against the ocean and sky.  There is also a Carousel located in the Looff Hippodrome adjacent to the Pier that we somehow missed entirely.

    On our stroll down the pier, we passed musicians, artists, magicians, souvenir shops, carnival games and various food stalls.  My son was particularly intrigued by a magician doing tricks for a crowd and a painter who was painting the pier on a piece of slate.  The Santa Monica Pier was our last stop before our red-eye flight, and my son was itching to choose a memento of our trip to bring home with him.  I was proud that he picked a framed painting made by the local artisan painting on the Pier instead of some cheap trinket.

    As the sun began to set, we headed off the Pier and onto the beach.  There’s nothing quite like the feeling of sand between your toes and standing at the water’s edge while listening to the waves ebb and flow.  We really savored those moments as we waded into the Pacific.  I do wish I lived closer to a coast.

    After sunset, we washed and dried our feet and decided to eat dinner before heading back downtown.  We thoroughly enjoyed our last meal of the trip at Del Frisco’s Grille, located right across from the Pier’s entrance.  We dined in their enclosed patio during Game 3 of the World Series.  We are Clevelanders who watched the Indians’ epic season and hoped that we would be rooting for our team during the championship series.  So, we were somewhat invested despite our team’s early playoff departure.  When Los Angeles won the National League championship, I thought this trip would inspire my son to root for LA, but he chose to support the Astros instead.  He did learn the important lesson while watching the Astros win two World Series games during our trip that if you are watching a sporting event in public and not supporting the home team, it’s polite to cheer quietly.  He had a great time watching the game on the flat screen television while eating his hand-shaved prime steak sandwich.

    We loved Santa Monica and didn’t mind the crowds.  Families looking for quieter beaches should check out one of these great Los Angeles beaches for kids.

    #2:    The Getty Center

    Like going to beaches, visiting art museums and getting the best view around are both generally high on my list when traveling.  The Getty Center is definitely a can’t miss in my book because it offers a fantastic art collection and an amazing view.  As added bonuses, a funicular transports visitors between the parking area and the museum, and there is no admission fee.   The Getty Center is a campus of the J. Paul Getty Museum located in Brentwood and funded by the J. Paul Getty Trust, the world’s wealthiest art institution.

    We took an Uber to the museum and were dropped off at the rideshare drop off conveniently located next to the security line and funicular entrance.  We received a museum guide and daily schedule while waiting for the next car to take us up the hill to the museum.  I discovered that the daily impressionist tour was scheduled to begin in 15 minutes.  We were a bit tight on time and planned to head to the impressionist galleries anyway, so the tour was definitely a treat.  The docent was informative and interesting as she directed us through the impressionist galleries, and the tour culminated with Vincent Van Gogh’s Irises, one of the Getty’s most notable paintings.

    Van Gogh’s Irises

    The Getty Center was designed by Richard Meier and completed in 1997.  It is known for its modern architecture and use of travertine and stunning outdoor gardens where the plants double as sculptures.  The Central Gardens, designed by Robert Irwin, contain over 500 plant varieties that visitors enjoy while strolling on a tree-lined walkway.  As you weave your way to the central pond, you pass a stream bubbling alongside the path.  Irwin’s statement, “Always changing, never twice the same” is carved into the floor to remind visitors of the evolving art.

    Resemblance to Mickey Mouse – intended or coincidental?

    The beautiful cactus garden was placed on the edge of the ridge with sunlight all day long.

    My son enjoyed the impressionist tour (particularly the Monet and Van Gogh paintings), the gardens and the view.  He also found the phone charging station, which were located back by the restrooms near the main lobby, particularly fascinating.  The Phone Charger worked like a hotel room safe.  You connect your phone to the proper charger inside the box, close the door and enter a four digit code to lock the door.  At anytime, you can access your phone by entering your code.  It is obviously a genius invention, and we can’t wait until they are more common.  The Getty Center really has thought of everything to impress its visitors.

    There is no Metro stop near the museum, so travel to or from the Getty during rush hour can be challenging, and the Uber timing estimates can be very inaccurate.  It took our driver about an hour to drive to the pick up point initially estimated to be nine minutes away and then another hour to travel downtown, so we ended up downtown an hour later than Uber’s original estimate.

    #3:     La Brea Tar Pits & George C. Page Museum

    On the day we flew to LA, my son attended a field trip to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History specifically focusing on mastodons and mammoths. While we were discussing options for things to do on our trip, he literally lit up when he heard about the La Brea Tar Pits & Museum.  So, after our brief stop in Hollywood, we jumped into an Uber and headed to La Brea.   I called my husband from the car and asked him to sign us up for a family membership to the Cleveland Museum of Natural History as ours had expired a few months earlier.  Members of museums participating in the ASTC Travel Passport Program receive reciprocal entry to member science centers and museums all over the country, including the La Brea Tar Pits.  The email confirmation came before we made it to La Brea and was all we needed to gain free entry to the George C. Page Museum.

    The LaBrea Tar Pits are shallow pools of oil that coagulated into asphalt and trapped Ice Age animals.  The Tar Pits are registered as a National Natural Landmark, and over 3.5 million fossils have been found on the site, with excavation continuing year round at Project 23 and seasonally at Pit 91.

    We bought tickets to Titans of the Ice Age, the 25-minute 3D movie showing in the Museum’s theater.  The movie showed how Ice Age animals would get stuck and then preserved in the tar pits.  The computer-generated imagery and 3D effects really bring the animals to life and interestingly convey the history of Ice Age animals.

    My son was fascinated by the Fossil Lab where you can watch paleontologists working on specimens collected from Project 23.   With 10 minutes to spare before our showing of the movie began, he headed back to the Fossil Lab to watch.  One of the Museum’s very helpful docents identified the paleontologist with the mask as the head curator.

    After viewing the completed fossils, watching the movie and observing the Fossil Lab, my son had an opportunity to try separating fossils himself.  With all these great hands on opportunities, it’s not surprising that the stop at the La Brea Tar Pits & Museum was his favorite of our trip.

    After visiting the Museum and Site 23, we headed up Wilshire Boulevard and had a quick lunch at Johnnie’s New York Pizzeria, right next to the SAG-AFRA building (no celebrity sightings).  We did not have time for a leisurely lunch and were thrilled that we were able to get indoor table service of pizza slices (generally permitted only as take out during peak times) because the restaurant was not busy.  The pizza was very tasty.

    #4:     Hollywood

    We made a quick stop at the Hollywood and Highland entertainment complex.  The big excitement of this stop was that setup for the Latin American Music Awards occurring that evening at the Dolby Theatre, was ongoing.  Before kids, I used to regularly watch movies in the theaters when they were released and was a huge movie award show fan.  Now that my movie watching occurs through DVDs or Netflix months after the award show season is over, I don’t watch much of the awards shows but do try to catch at least a few minutes of the coverage of the celebrity arrivals in front of the Dolby Theatre.  So, it was a treat to see how it’s done – albeit with a purple carpet.

    My mom and I had fun walking down Hollywood Boulevard and looking at all the stars.  The motion picture camera, a radio microphone, a television set, a record or a theatrical mask symbols identify the celebrity’s genre.  My son repeated about 20 times, “Do you know who these people are?” and generally made me feel old.

    Purple carpet for the Latin American Music Awards

    We planned to stop at the Grauman’s Chinese Theatre (now known as the TCL Chinese Theatres) to see the concrete blocks with celebrities’ signatures, handprints and footprints of popular celebrities.  However, the area in front of the Theatre was completely blocked off due to a movie premiere.   It was definitely a busy Thursday in Hollywood.

    So, we headed over to the Hollywood and Highland Center to get a view of the Hollywood Sign in the Hollywood Hills.

    After taking a few obligatory pictures of the iconic Hollywood Sign, we saw a gelato vending machine.  So, I made this little guy’s day by giving this novel concept a try on his behalf.

    Before heading off for our next stop, we took a quick peak in Ripley’s Believe It or Not!  The entry fee was a bit steep, and we had other museums we wanted to see more, so we did not make it beyond the lobby.  However, the lobby provided a few minutes of fun entertainment and even a fortune reading by Zoltar.

    Where does the water come from?

    Fortune reading

    #5:     Walt Disney Concert Hall

    The Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic orchestra, is arguably the world’s most unique concert hall.  It was designed by Frank Gehry, an architect known for his use of corrugated steel and unexpected lines. Disney Hall opened in 2002, about one year after Gehry’s Case Western Reserve’s Weatherhead School of Management, which also utilized steel was completed.  I have been a fan since I saw a Gehry exhibit at the Guggenheim in 2001.

    My son plays the violin and often goes to Cleveland Orchestra performances in Severance Hall, a very different building just down the street from Gehry’s Weatherhead School of Management.  The Disney Hall offers guided and self-guided tours, and we opted for the self-guided tour due to time constraints.  We particularly enjoyed the spectacular gardens and many unique views of the building.

    Disney Hall definitely sticks out in the LA skyline

    I’ve heard that some larger conferences offer kids’ activities for older kids and hope this is a trend that catches on.  Being away from family is hard for working parents who need to travel for their jobs, and I was very lucky that my mom and son could join me on this trip.  They really had a fantastic days in Los Angeles and joining them on a few of their adventures made the trip so much more enjoyable for me, too.

    For information about accommodation and transportation options in Los Angeles, check out Los Angeles With Kids:  Tinseltown Logistics and our entire series on Los Angeles with kids.

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  • Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Best Things to Do in Barcelona With Kids

    Barcelona is Spain’s “second city” and a mesmerizing blend of Gothic and Modernism styles.  In contrast with the Gothic Quarter, many of Barcelona’s monuments were brilliantly designed by master architect, Antoni Gaudi, who is best known for Catalan Modernism.  As the capital of Catalonia, this vibrant and beautiful city has unique language, history and culture and was an amazing city to explore for a few days with our infant son.

    We traveled to Barcelona as a side trip from London, where we had been visiting family.  My husband and I chose Barcelona because neither of us had been to Spain or visited the Mediterranean.  Barcelona was particularly alluring because of its distinctive architecture, particularly Sagrada Familia. Because there are always a plethora of flight deals to major European cities from London, we were able to book a flight and hotel package through lastminute.com.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in Barcelona with kids.

    Accommodations in Barcelona

    We stayed for three nights at the Hotel Villa Emilia, a boutique hotel with modern touches.  Hotel Villa Emilia is located just outside the city center in Barcelona’s most famous residential neighborhood, the Eixample.  The Eixample is a late 19th century development that means “the expansion” in Catalan.  We loved the quieter, residential atmosphere of this upscale area and didn’t mind that we needed to jump on the nearby Metro for a stop or two to get to the main tourist areas.

    Eating in Barcelona

    The thing to remember about traveling to Barcelona with kids is that everyone eats dinner late.  Dinner before 8 pm is challenging, at best.  Most restaurants do not start serving dinner before 9 pm, and 10 pm is definitely more of the typical dinner time.  Before dinner, many people enjoy tapas – small savory plates served with drinks – at bars.   Our newborn rarely slept for more than a few hours at a time, so even though he did not have a “bedtime”, my husband and I were definitely sleep-deprived and ate at Chinese restaurants two nights of our trip simply because that was all we could find open early.

    While evening dining may have challenges if you are traveling with kids, we had several amazing fixed price lunches that were delicious and extremely reasonable. Our favorite was 4Gats, a historic restaurant meaning “four cats” that Picasso frequented around 1900.  My husband and I enjoyed a fabulous fixed-price lunch that included a bottle of wine.  Our son enjoyed a “cat nap” in his stroller while we ate.

    Transportation in Barcelona

    We mostly traveled by the Metro, which is one of Europe’s best.  It was fast and efficient but not built to be stroller accessible.  We quickly became experts at handling the stroller with stairs and escalators – so much so that I have admittedly taken strollers on escalators in the US when there was not an obvious alternative – despite all those signs indicating not to do so.

    We saw bikes for rent all over the city, which have now become popular in the US as well, but at the time, it was pretty novel, and something we had never seen before.

    Language

    The official languages of Catalonia are both Spanish and Catalan.  It is surprising to learn that Catalan is the first language of most Barcelonans, and schools are required to conduct classes in Catalan.  However, all adults speak Spanish as well.  We have some limited Spanish skills but never had language barrier issues.  Everyone in the tourist industry spoke fluent English, and English menus were available in restaurants.

    Things to See in Barcelona

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia

    Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (Holy Family Church) is Antoni Gaudi’s still unfinished masterpiece of Catalan Modernism architecture and the icon of Barcelona.  Sagrada Familia was never intended to serve as the seat of a bishop but definitely constructed in the scope and proportion typical of cathedrals and has been rated as the world’s most famous church.

    Francisco Paula de Villar was the initial architect when construction began in 1883.  Antoni Gaudi took over as architect in 1891 and worked on Sagrada Familia until his death in 1926.  Gaudi intended for Sagrada Familia to have a major impact on Barcelona’s skyline, and his masterpiece is one of the tallest religious buildings in the world with 18 spires planned to represent the 12 Apostles, Mary, the four Evangelists and Jesus (the tallest).

    Sagrada Familia is dedicated to the Holy Family of Joseph, Mary and Jesus.  There are three façades – the Nativity Façade that depicts the birth of Jesus, and the Passion Façade that shows the crucifixion of Jesus have been completed.  The Glory Façade, which will show the path to God, has not yet been completed.

    The Nativity Façade was the only part of Sagrada Familia completed during Gaudi’s life.  The Passion Façade was built according to Gaudi’s design, but does seem to vary in style from the original façade.  The only part of the church that was completed while Gaudi was alive is the Nativity Façade.  So, while Gaudi gets all the glory for this masterpiece, most of the church was actually designed by others.

    Nativity Façade

    Nativity Façade Detail

    Passion Façade

    While we did not purchase tickets in advance, it is highly recommended now that you buy your tickets online with a specific entry time to avoid the long lines.  We entered through the Nativity Façade, which will be a side entrance after the Glory Façade is completed.  Construction was very much ongoing on both the interior and exterior when we visited.  It is very common for cathedrals and monuments to require restoration work, and scaffolding has obscured the perfect picture of many cathedrals I’ve visited over the years.  However, it is quite exciting to witness the initial construction of a historic monument.  The only other time I had a similar experience was when I visited the Crazy Horse Memorial in 2002 and got to witness a rare blast first-hand.  I am always fascinated to see the progress of both monuments.

    The interior was very much under construction during our visit

    The colors of the stained glass are so brilliant and interesting.

    Modern technology and the funds from entrance fees have drastically helped construction.  The main nave was completed a few years after our visit, and the Pope held a consecration Mass in 2010.  The goal is to complete construction by 2026, the 100th anniversary of Gaudi’s death, but estimates show that it is likely to take a few years longer than that.

    I have visited literally dozens of cathedrals around Europe, but Sagrada Familia is truly distinctive.  It is really surreal to visit this vast and awe-inspiring church.  After the York Minster, which will forever hold a special place in my heart, it is probably my second favorite church in the world and definitely one not to miss.  After our tour, we relaxed at a nearby park  to enjoy the view of the completed spires away from the crowds.

    La Rambla

    La Rambla is a colorful, tree-lined pedestrian mall between Plaça de Catalunya and Port Vell, is one of the most popular tourist destinations.  There are lots of shops and baskers lining the road, which was once under water.

    La Boqueria Market (Mercat de Sant Josep) is Barcelona’s food market located just off La Rambla.  It is also known as Mercat de Sant Joseph and is visually stunning.  since 1200, main entry is beautiful.  The market is colorful and visually stunning.  Because the stands near the front pay the highest rent, they also have the highest prices.

    The Columbus Monument is the 200 foot column honoring Christopher Columbus at the end of La Rambla.  This monument recognizes Columbus’ journey to Barcelona to report to Queen Isabella I and King Ferdinand V after returning from North America in 1493.  The style of this pedestal, column and statue reminded me of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square, which we also visited on this European vacation.

    Columbus Statue on the Top of the Monument

    View of the Columbus Monument from the Barcelona Cathedral

    Gothic Quarter (Barri Gòtic)

    The Gothic Quarter is the center of the old city with narrow, cobblestone streets.  These pedestrian-only streets are the perfect location for an afternoon stroll.  Picasso lived in this neighborhood around the turn of the 20th century.

    Cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia/Barcelona Cathedral

    The Barcelona Cathedral was constructed between 1298 and 1450.  However, the front façade was ornately recreated around the turn of the 20th century to add an interesting blend of Gothic and Neo-Gothic architecture.  This Cathedral is dedicated to Saint Eulalia of Barcelona who was martyred here in the fourth century.  We enjoyed the view from the Cathedral’s roof, which is widely known for gargoyles.

    Church of Santa Maria del Mar is a 14th century Catalan Gothic church whose name means meaning “Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Sea”.

    Beaches

    We were not prepared with beach gear on this trip but did stop by at a beach briefly so that all three of us could dip our toes in the Mediterranean Sea.  Beaches are so close to the city center and well-loved by the locals.  Hop off the Metro, and you feel like you have arrived at a resort!

    Tibidabo

    We often go to the highest point of a city we are visiting to get the bird’s-eye view of an area.  So, we took a ride on the Tibidabo Funicular to the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  The view of the Tibidabo Amusement Park and the city was definitely worth the trip.  The Tibidabo Amusement Park opened in 1889, but many of the rides are originals with unparalleled scenery.  It was our son’s first amusement park and something definitely to add to your list if you are traveling with kids.

    View of Tibidabo Amusement Park and Barcelona from the summit of Mount Tibidabo

    Amusement park in the sky

     

    The Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor (Expiatory Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus) stands on the summit of Mount Tibidabo.  It was completed in 1961 in the neo-Gothic style with a statue of Jesus on top of the central spire.

    Why visit Barcelona With Kids?

    I was more nervous about this trip than any others because it was our first time abroad as parents.  Nonetheless, our infant son was a great travel companion during the four spectacular days we spent in Barcelona.  My son was exclusively nursed at the time, and we were pleasantly surprised that nursing in public was much more common-place and accepted than is was in the US at the time.  So many people on the streets stopped us to inquire about our son, often utilizing limited English skills or hand gestures to communicate with us.  There may have been occasional stroller challenges on the cobblestone streets, but nothing too challenging for us to overcome for families with young ones.

    Next time we go, we definitely won’t miss the Picasso Museum.  I have no idea why we didn’t put this on our list and wonder if we avoided it as newbie parents simply because we were traveling with our infant.  Now, I firmly believe that kids of any age are not too young for the art museum.

    Our son may have no memories of the trip, but FC Barcelona is his favorite soccer team.  Mere coincidence?

  • New York City With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    New York City With Kids: Five Fun Family Activities

    New York City is the most populous city in the United States with over 8.5 million people — more than the entire population of Virginia! Having lived on the East Coast for over fifteen years, my husband and I have spent years making at least twice annual trips to New York City. My best friend from college lives there, so we frequently traveled to NYC for food, wine, and entertainment. Then we had kids. And it took us nearly four years to go back. Why? Because after years of traveling to NYC as single adults and then as a double-income-no-kid couple, the thought of traveling to NYC was daunting.

    Prior to my son’s fourth birthday, I decided our NYC hiatus had gone on long enough and we made plans to travel up to NYC for the weekend, just a short Amtrak ride away from DC. We quickly discovered that many of the things we had enjoyed previously were not off limits just because our son was with us and, as an added bonus, we discovered other activities that we would not have experienced if we weren’t traveling with a child.

    #1: New York Public Library and Bryant Park

    We stayed at the Andaz 5th Avenue, which was conveniently located across the street from the New York Public Library and Bryant Park. Both provided excellent space and people watching, particularly from the coffee shop directly across the street from the NYPL and around the corner from the Andaz. Being located near Bryant Park also provided my son with opportunities to run around in an open space and, we picked up lunch at one of the many eateries located at the Park on our last day there, which we happily ate on the Amtrak ride back down to DC (we picked up sandwiches from ‘Wichcraft, which sadly closed in late ’14/early ’15,  but there are many other options available, and I encourage you to try them and enjoy Bryant Park’s open space).

    eating breakfast across from the New York Public Library

    #2: Central Park / Victorian Gardens

    My godparents live in NYC and recommended meeting up at Central Park one morning during our stay. While my husband and godfather went on a short run through the Park, my kiddo and I decided to check out Victorian Gardens, the amusement park located within Central Park. It ended up being an ideal location to spend a few hours and my son absolutely loved his first exposure to roller coasters. A few weeks after our trip, I happened to mention our trip to NYC to the parent of a classmate of my son, who grew up in Manhattan, but who had never taken her two kids to the city before! When I mentioned what a fabulous trip we had, she realized that she had been remiss in not taking her two kids and planned a trip almost immediately after I reminded her of the existence of Victorian Gardens.

    The roller coasters in Central Park were the perfect introduction!

    #3: Shopping / People Watching / Dining Out

    There are a few things that always spring to mind immediately when NYC is mentioned, including food, Broadway, and shopping.  After our stop in Central Park, we visited FAO Schwarz (now closed) on Fifth Avenue. My godparents insisted, actually, and my son loved it as he has been to only a handful of toy stores in his entire life (thanks to Amazon.com!).

    He also loved wandering around SOHO that afternoon and just taking in all the street vendors – something that we don’t have in DC.

    Although you might think that Fifth Avenue is boring and not a place for kids, my son found the large buildings and the throngs of people to be fascinating. He also found the Sak’s shoe elevator to be fascinating and, during a subsequent visit to NYC years later, enjoyed popping into St. Patrick’s Cathedral as a window-shopping break.

    The Shoe Elevator!

    Popping into St. Patrick’s to light a candle.

    #4: The Highline

    The first time we visited the Highline, a 1.5 mile elevated park built on a former railway, was with my son. The Highline opened in June 2009, the same month my son was born, so this was not something we could have done in any of our prior visits. The day we visited, the weather was absolutely perfect.  Although the significance of the park as an urban revitalization project was likely lost on my son, it was a great way to spend a few hours.

    Family photo on the Highline.

    #5: Empire State Building

    The 86th floor of the Empire State Building has an open-air observation deck, which my son absolutely loved on a later visit to NYC, when he was nearing his sixth birthday. Tickets are steep ($62 for adults, $60 for seniors over age 62, $56 for children ages 6-12), but because my son was just shy of his 6th birthday, he was admitted for free.

    Open air observation deck at the Empire State Building

    Final Thoughts

    Living in DC, we took the Amtrak from DC to New York which my son loveland helped prepare him for a trip to Japan the next year, which involved extensive train travel.  New York City is one of my favorite places to visit and I am glad we waited until my son was older to visit. Because he was over four years of age, I also felt comfortable packing a backless booster for him to use in short rides around the city (whether Uber or my friend/godparents’ vehicle). If he had been any younger, we would have had to either lug around his big convertible car seat or restrict ourselves to traveling via Subway, as I am not comfortable with young children riding without car seats, even though I know they are legally exempt when riding in taxis.

    Waiting for our train!

    In the backseat of an Uber.

    Although my son has no recollection of our trip to NYC, I loved that we finally “ripped off the band-aid,” so to speak, and took him to a place that many do not think of as a great place to bring young children for a weekend. Obviously, there are people who live and work in NYC who have young kids, but for those of us who only experienced the City as young adults, it was hard to envision the logistics of getting around Manhattan with a young child and even more questionable as to whether we would enjoy the City as much as we did before kids. I’m happy to report that we had a lovely long weekend visiting NYC with kids and am looking forward to doing it again and varying up the activities now that my son is older.