Category: catherine

  • Travelon Review:  Anti-Theft Classic Essential Messenger Bag

    Travelon Review: Anti-Theft Classic Essential Messenger Bag

    An anti-theft handbag was an absolute necessity for our recent family trip to France and Italy where many tourists fall victim to pickpockets.  Our biggest travel fear was losing our passports, iPhones or credit cards.  My Travelon anti-theft classic essential messenger bag was a great way to easily protect these valuables while traveling with three kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) on a vacation that included seven different overnight accommodations and various planes, trains and automobiles during our 2.5 week trip.  Our itinerary included Rome, Paris and Florence, three of the top six cities in the world where visitors are likely to be pickpocketed, according to Travelocity.  This Travelon review outlines why I recommend Travelon handbags.

    Travelon Messenger Bag Review

    Is an Anti-Theft Bag Necessary?

    Our family of five packed relatively light for our trip, carrying with us only one checked suitcase and two personal item-sized backpacks.  On travel days, I usually pushed my three year old daughter’s stroller and did not have any free hands.  My husband handled the suitcase and a backpack, and the two of us were often distracted as we kept track of our three kids in the midst of crowded cities.  I had never invested in an anti-theft handbag for prior trips but knew that our valuables could be at risk in one of my usual over the shoulder totes.  While I honestly avoid purchasing specific items for travel, I decided that an anti-theft handbag was a necessity and purchased the Travelon messenger bag after significant research and many Amazon searches.

     

    Travelon – Anti-Theft Capabilities

    I was attracted by Travelon’s locking zippers, slash-resistant body and straps, and RFID blocking compartment when I started exploring anti-theft bags.  The zippers to the main and front compartments have locks that are easy to fasten but make it much harder for thieves to access valuables inside the bag without the wearer noticing.  Although locking zippers is an extra step that doesn’t come natural to me, I got into the habit of fastening the zippers whenever closing a compartment.  My three kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) understood the importance of keeping our valuables safe and regularly checked if my bag was locked.

     

    Travelon Messenger’s Exceptional Organization

    Travelon’s messenger bag is smaller than my go to totes at home but offers many pockets for easy organization.  The front compartment also provides protection from radio-frequency identification.  The fact that thieves could potentially collect credit card data wirelessly is pretty terrifying.  The necessity of RFID blocking technology is debatable, and aluminum foil apparently offers similar protection.  Admittedly, my bags at home do not offer this protection, but I thought it was an added benefit that this Travelon crossbody was equipped with RFID blocking technology.  Contacting credit card companies while abroad is no easy feat, and we heavily rely on credit cards for travel expenses.

    I used the front compartment to store my credit cards, driver’s license and pens.  It also had a zippered pocket that was perfect for change, Metro tickets and receipts.  All five passports did not fit in the specially designed pocket in the front compartment, but a zippered pocket at the back of the main compartment of the bag fit all five.  I felt safer with two sets of zippers protecting these most valuable items on travel days.  The main compartment also featured two mobile phone-sized pockets, and a pocket at the back, which did not lock, was perfect for holding maps and other items that I needed to access often.  The main compartment was large enough to hold my son’s Nikon Coolpix camera, a small wallet, tissues and the relevant Rick Steves’ travel guide, when necessary.

    Travelon’s messenger bag makes it easy to organize travel essentials. Photo credit – Travelon

     

    Are Travelon Bags Fashionable?

    So, the downside to Travelon bags is that their slash proof body and straps and locking compartments make their bags not nearly as fashionable as my everyday Michael Kors’ tote.  I don’t claim to be trendy, but we were visiting Paris, the fashion capital of the world and Rome, which is not far behind.  I appreciated the wide selection but was not in love with any of the bags.  I really wish slash proof shoulder straps could be made thinner and might even be willing to forego the slash proof functionality for a sleeker strap.  After examining all the options, I chose to stray from my go to tote-style handbag in favor of a messenger bag that would be easier to keep in my range of vision.  I purchased the messenger bag in basic black for versatility, and it was much more budget friendly than Michael Kors.  And, the adjustable shoulder strap made it easy for me to shorten the length for a more comfortable fit.

    Travelon Anti-Theft Test

    Our family had a somewhat scary experience at the Rome train station with likely pickpockets.  As we were navigating our way out of the station, a well-dressed woman who spoke broken English stood at the top of an escalator and said we had to use the elevator because of our stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, we prefer to use elevators if they are easily accessible, especially when we are carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  I kept a hand clutching the clasp of my bag and was relieved that our five passports, two iPhones and most of our cash were safely locked inside.  We emerged unscathed but aware that we could have been victims if our valuables had not been securely stored.

     

    Our Travelon Messenger Bag Review 

    My Travelon anti-theft messenger bag protected our valuables while traveling in Europe.  While this anti-theft classic  messenger bag will not replace my everyday totes, I will absolutely use it again when traveling.

    Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliate links, meaning, at no additional cost to you, We Go With Kids will earn a commission if you click through and make a purchase. Opinions are the author’s.

  • Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Looking for a destination in the heart of Tuscany?  We recommend a weekend trip to Florence.  This capital of Tuscany and birthplace of the Renaissance was my introduction to Italy as a college backpacker years ago, and I was so excited take my kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) on a holiday in Florence this past summer during a 10-day family tour of Italy.  We visited during a particular hot weekend halfway through our European summer vacation after visiting Paris, Venice, Pisa and San Gimignano.  While there are so many things to do in Florence, we uncharacteristically chose not to tour any museums, royal residences or historical buildings.  Instead, we spent our weekend in Florence roaming around and enjoying the unique architecture and atmosphere.  While tours of the Uffizi, Accademia Gallery and Pitti Palace are almost certain to be on our itinerary the next time we visit, there was no shortage of sights to see in this very walkable city.  Our list of the best things to do in Florence with kids includes iconic sights and hidden gems.

     

    Top 10 Sights in Florence For Kids

      

    #1:  Duomo With Kids (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore)

    Florence’s Duomo, located in the center of the city, is the world’s third largest church, dwarfed only by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.   Its neo-Gothic facade, which is decorated with pink, green and white Tuscan marble, was added in the 19th century and is brilliantly ornate.  It may be my favorite church exterior in the entire world, and I could spend hours examining its details.

    The Duomo’s dome was an impressive architectural feat.  Plans included a dome, even though the architects were not sure how to construct it.  The only dome on this scale was in Rome’s Pantheon, which was over 1,000 years old, and the building method had been long since forgotten.  Filippo Brunellschi studied the Pantheon to design the Duomo’s dome.  His plans involved the construction of both an inner dome and an outer dome.

    The Duomo’s dome

    While we did not make it inside on our last visit due to the long line, we planned to attend Sunday morning Mass at the Duomo during this visit.  Like many other cathedrals, the Duomo is foremost a religious building that just happens to also be a popular tourist attraction.  There were no admission fees or lines to attend Mass.  The Mass times posted online were not exactly accurate, so instead of arriving 15 minutes early for Mass, we ended up 15 minutes late but still welcome.  At the end of Mass, which was completely in Italian, the priest welcomed English-speaking visitors and briefly summarized the readings and his homily.  Attending Mass while traveling is a tradition for our family, and we’ve heard Masses in several foreign languages, and we all really appreciated and enjoyed this English greeting.

    The Duomo’s interior

    The interior of the Duomo is not as impressive as its exterior.  Large portions of the walls are painted white, and the stained glass windows are significantly smaller than those of other major cathedrals in Europe. Brunellschi’s 330-foot red brick dome was certainly an architectural masterpiece, but its mosaics are not as ornate as those that adorn the dome at St. Peter’s Basilica.  It’s still impressive and beautiful, just a bit underwhelming, especially when compared with interiors of other major European cathedrals.

    The interior of the dome
    • Duomo Facts for Kids:  The Duomo’s iconic dome was the first Renaissance dome and served as a model for many other domes, including St. Peter’s Basilica.

     

    #2:  Piazza del Duomo With Kids

    Piazza del Duomo is always crowded with the hustle and bustle of tourists and locals.  Because the square is relatively small, it’s hard to get a good view of the entire Duomo and the surrounding buildings, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower from street level.

    The octagonal Florence Baptistery was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries in Florence Romanesque style.  It is known for its three stunning 14th and 15th century doors.  Michelangelo nicknamed Lorenzo Ghiberti’s east doors the “Gates of Paradise.”  The Baptistery is a truly beautiful building, but it’s size seems to be disproportionate with the Duomo.  Their proximity really makes it hard to really appreciate each building for its own beauty, and we all wished they could be more spread out like Pisa’s Field of Miracles, which showcases its cathedral, baptistery and tower with an enormous square and pristine grass.

    The Giotto’s Bell Tower is another popular sight, and visitors can climb 414 to the top and get a close-up view of Brunelleschi’s dome.  We did not visit the interiors of either on this trip.

    • Piazza del Duomo Facts for Kids:  Lorenzo Ghiberti won a competition to design the Baptistery’s north doors, beating Donotello and  Brunelleschi.  The north doors took him 21 years to complete but were so impressive that he was asked to design the east doors, which face the Duomo.

     

    #3:  Ponte Vecchio With Kids

    Ponte Vecchio (or “Old Bridge”), Florence’s oldest and most famous bridge, is enclosed and lined with shops.  A bridge has been located on this site since 966, and the current stone, pedestrian bridge was completed in 1345.

    Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge across the Arno River to survive German’s World War II retreat on August 8, 1944.  There are many theories on why it wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis who blew up ancient buildings on either end to block it off.  Nazi officials may have saved it due to its age and beauty, or possibly it was saved because it was not considered a defensive asset.  Now, it is a popular tourist sight, with shops lining both sides.  Personally, I think that the view from Ponte Vecchio may be as beautiful of the bridge itself.

    • Ponte Vecchio Facts for Kids:   While butcher shops were originally located in Ponte Vecchio, Ferdinand I evicted them in the 16th century because he didn’t like the stench that emanated into Pitti Palace from their shops.  It is now a popular place to purchase jewelry.

     

    #4:  David Replica With Kids

    Michelangelo’s David replica statue may be one of the world’s most famous copies.  This marble statue depicts the Biblical hero who is known for defeating Goliath.  David is an iconic Renaissance sculpture, originally designed as a symbol of Florentine freedom to be placed on the Duomo’s roof line but ultimately placed at the entrance of the Town Hall upon completion.  After 350 years being exposed to the elements, David was moved to the Accademia Gallery in 1873 to protect it from damage.  A copy was placed in Piazza della Signoria in 1910.

    Michelangelo was raised in Florence, and his works were a highlight of our visits in Florence and Rome.  Michelangelo sculpted David in his late 20s as a symbol of Florentine freedom right before he was commissioned to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.  David and Pieta, which we saw at St. Peter’s Basilica a few days later, are probably Michelangelo’s two most well-known statues.

    • David Replica Facts:  David was originally intended to be installed in the Duomo’s roofline.  On November 12, 2010, a fiberglass replica was installed at the Duomo for one day.

     

    #5:  Piazza della Signoria With Kids

    Piazza della Signoria is the city’s main square, where its town hall, Palazzo Vecchio, the David replica and Fountain of Neptune are located.  The Fountain of Neptune was closed for restorations after vandalism during our 2007 visit and again under renovation during this visit but is scheduled to be reopened by the end of 2018.

    Palazzo Vecchio was constructed at the turn of the 14th century.  Duke Cosimo I and the Medici family made it their home in the 16th century.  I love that the Tower is unexpectedly slightly off-center.

    This castle-like fortress now serves as Florence’s Town Hall.  There was no charge (or line) to enter the ground-floor courtyard, so we took a quick peek inside.

    The Loggia dei Lanzi is a building on the corner of the Piazza del Signoria with wide arches open to the square at street level.

    • Piazza della Signoria Facts:  The Tower is not symmetrical with the rest of the Palazzo Vecchio because the ancient tower of The Vacca was incorporated into the palace’s design.

     

    #6:  Santa Croce Church With Kids

    The Basilica of Santa Croce is the world’s largest Franciscan church and located in the Piazza Santa Croce, only 800 meters from the Duomo.  Santa Croce was designed by architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who went on to design the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio.  Santa Croce was built between 1294 and 1442, and is the burial place for Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Ghiberti and Rossini.  Like the Duomo, the Basilica of Santa Croce features a 19th century neo-Gothic marble facade.  The Star of David is a focal point of the facade.  Santa Croce was featured in E.M. Forester’s A Room With a View and was the main impetus for my college visit to Florence because the book was one of my companion’s favorites.

    We did not tour the interior of Santa Croce because we really only had one full day to explore Florence, it was really hot, and we were a bit worried about church fatigue before heading to Rome.  We enjoyed the view of Santa Croce from Piazza Santa Croce, which is much larger than that square surrounding the Duomo.

    • Santa Croce Church Facts for Kids:  Piazza Santa Croce is a major gathering spot in Florence and was covered with 15 feet of water on November 4, 1966 when the Arno River flooded.

     

    #7:  Church of Santa Maria Novella With Kids

    The Church of Santa Maria Novella was built for the Dominican order in the late 13th and 14th centuries.  Its green and white marble facade is original 15th century artistry.  Santa Maria Novella remains the home of the Dominican order and the centerpiece of the adjacent square.  We did not visit the interior, which houses the Trinita, the first painting that featured linear mathematical perspective.

    • Church of Santa Maria Novella Facts for Kids:  Santa Maria Novella is adjacent to Florence’s train station, which is named after the church, and sometimes shortened to Florence SMN.

     

    #8:  Fort Belvedere With Kids

    Fort Belvedere is the largest fortress in Florence.  It is located across the Arno River from the central part of the city and on the highest hill of the Boboli Gardens.  I clearly remember the amazing panoramic view from my college visit and return 10-years later while visiting Florence with friends.

    Our pre-kids visit to Fort Belvedere

    Fort Belvedere is my favorite place to view Florence’s city center, and especially the Duomo, which rises far above the rest of the skyline.

    • Fort Belvedere Facts for Kids:  Fort Belvedere gained world-wide notoriety after Kim Kardashian and Kanye West rented it for their 2014 wedding for the reported sum of $400,000.

     

    #9:  Boboli Gardens With Kids

    Boboli Gardens are the gardens of the Pitti Palace.  They were constructed in the 16th century for Duchess Elenora of Toledo, who married Cosimo I of the Medici family.  Because we visited Florence on an extremely hot weekend, we came to the Boboli Gardens in search of a park bench in the shade with a view.  Adult tickets cost €10 each, and the kids were free.  We were sadly disappointed to find very few benches, and none in the shade.  We had to settle for taking a seat on a step of a staircase that had a magnificent view, but little shade and few benches.

    View of Pitti Palace and Fountain of Neptune

    Fort Belvedere is a steep hike from the Boboli Gardens.  We just couldn’t manage more walking on the hot day we visited, so we settled for the view from the entrance to the Boboli Gardens, which isn’t quite as detailed, but still shows the Duomo’s impressive scale over the Florence skyline.

    View of Florence from the Boboli Gardens
    • Boboli Gardens Facts for Kids:  At the time that Elenora married Cosimo I, the Medici family was in danger of becoming extinct.  Elenora had eleven children to protect the family’s future.  Clearly, she needed an amazing garden to relax.

     

    #10:  Piazza della Repubblica With Kids

    Piazza della Repubblica is located on the site the original Roman Forum.  The triumphal arch was constructed in the nineteenth century to celebrate Italy’s unification.

    The 20-horse antique carousel of the Picci family is now a centerpiece to this public space.

    • Piazza della Repubblica Facts:  The English translation of the arch’s inscription is “The ancient centre of the city restored from age-old squalor to new life.”

     

    A Trip With Kids to Florence, Italy

    There are so many fun things to do in Florence with kids, and this list just scratch the surface.  There were so top attractions in Florence that we definitely recommend a short trip.  Planning an Italian holiday?  Check out our listing of all posts featuring Italian destinations.  

  • Planning a Trip to Florence With Kids

    Planning a Trip to Florence With Kids

    Florence is one of my all-time favorite cities.  I first visited when I was a college backpacker and was fortunate to return 10 years later with my husband for an unforgettable weekend visiting friends in Tuscany.  It’s such an amazing city that I was excited to return with our three kids, aged 10, 8 and 3.  My prior visits had both been in March with perfect Spring weather. Even though our first family visit was during an exceptionally hot weekend in mid-July, we didn’t let the heat put a damper on our fun.   Our time in Florence was filled with delicious meals and iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites and gardens.  With proper planning, a trip to Florence with kids can’t be ruined even by by scorching hot weather.

    The Duomo

    Travel to Florence With Kids

    We traveled to Florence by a rental car, which we picked up in Bologna the previous day.  We spent the night in Pisa and toured the Field of Miracles in the morning and explored San Gimignano, a beautiful hilltop town in Tuscany known for its medieval towers, in the afternoon.  Renting a car was a convenient way to make several stops off the beaten path without having to worry about coordinating train schedules or storing luggage.  Luggage storage was definitely a concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day.  Not all Italian train stations have luggage storage, and this would have been particularly an issue in San Gimignano, which does not have either a train station or luggage storage facilities.  However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging.  We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into limited traffic zones on more than one occasion.  As a result, our preference was to travel by train between cities whenever possible.

    Our rental car

    Much of Florence is a limited traffic zone, and parking is not ideal.  We were glad to drop off our rental car upon arrival.

    Not a typical parking garage

    Because of easy train connections, Florence would be a great base to explore Tuscany.  Three of my favorite Tuscan towns, Pisa, Lucca and San Gimignano are each easy day trips from Florence.  There are frequent trains from Florence to Pisa and Lucca, and visitors can reach San Gimignano from Florence by taking a train to Poggibonsi and transferring to a bus.

    Pisa’s Leaning Tower

    View of San Gimignano
    View of San GImignano

    Other nearby off the beaten path destinations in Tuscany include Orvieto, Panzano, Siena and Volterra.

    When leaving Florence, we took Trenitalia to Rome, which was a quick 90 minute journey from city center to city center.  Our train fare cost €96 for our family of five.  There was no charge for our three year old, but she also did not have a seat reserved for her.

    Trenitalia train

    Accommodations in Florence With Kids

    We stayed in an Airbnb about five minutes from the Duomo.  This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation during our European vacation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room.  It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine.  We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train.  Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.

    Living room

    Kitchen (with a washing machine hidden in one of the cabinets)

    Local Transportation in Florence 

    Florence was a very walkable city, and we did not used public transportation at all during our weekend stay.  Buses are available but not permitted in the area around the Duomo.  We did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb.  It would have been a very long walk with luggage otherwise.

    Packing for Florence 

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats.  WOW air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us, and we also packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals in Italy, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls or scarves were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl or scarf and left all the pants that I had packed for my sons and me at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.

    Our luggage

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to locate outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at Charles de Gaulle Airport upon our arrival in Europe.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When it didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziplock organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip (and then delayed).

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While there were some challenges on cobble streets all over Italy, including in Florence, we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    Food in Florence 

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to England’s semi-final World Cup match).  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    Our favorite restaurant in Florence was I Ghibellini.  We enjoyed our dinner so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.

    I Ghibellini

    Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water, so we always ended up purchasing a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We didn’t find a grocery in Florence but did pick up water at corner shops.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and watermelon, especially in Florence.

    Our most artistic gelato

    Cell Service in Florence 

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but only used cell service on our first day in Florence.  We turned on international usage as soon as we arrived to contact our host, who escorted us up to our apartment.   Then, the next morning, my husband used his phone to connect with his friend who was meeting us in the city. While WiFi was usually available at restaurants, we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

    Currency in Florence

    We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

    Language Barrier in Florence?

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  We experienced no language barriers in Florence.

    Pickpocketing Warning in Florence

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station but remained alert and careful and did not fall victim to their ploy.  Top pickpocket locations in Florence include Ponte Vecchio, Santa Maria Novella train station, the Basilica of San Lorenzo and market, the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi Gallery.

    Itinerary for Florence 

    We spent a weekend in Florence, arriving in the evening on Friday and departing mid-afternoon on Sunday.  The highs reached into the mid-90s every day of our visit.  We purposely chose to have a few laid back days and did not visit the Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia Gallery or any churches (except the Duomo).  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many amazing sights.

    Here is our basic daily itinerary for our time in Florence:

    Day One

    • Arrive in Florence at 7 pm
    • Take a taxi to our Airbnb
    • Visit the Duomo at night

    Day Two 

    • Palazzo Vecchio
    • David Replica
    • Santa Croce
    • Santa Maria Novella
    • Boboli Gardens

    Day Three

    • Attend Mass at the Duomo
    • Roam around Florence
    • Mid-afternoon train to Rome

    Why We Loved Florence 

    Florence is a walkable and amazing Italian city.  The Duomo is one of the world’s most famous cathedrals, and there is also world renowned art, monuments, architecture and gardens.  Even in the extreme heat, we enjoyed every minute.  Considering a trip to Florence with kids?  Make sure to check out the rest of our blog posts on Florence with kids, our other blog posts about Rome and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy!

  • Things to Do in San Gimignano With Kids

    Things to Do in San Gimignano With Kids

    We spent a lovely afternoon in San Gimignano, a beautiful walled, hill town in Tuscany.  While driving from Pisa to Florence, we wanted to explore a typical Tuscan town and were intrigued by San Gimignano.  It is known as “the Town of Fine Towers” because of the medieval “skyscrapers” that are still the distinctive feature of the town’s skyline.  San Gimignano once had 72 towers used as either legitimate fortifications or simply as empty shells that served as ego boosters for wealthy families who either did not feel the need for extra protection or could afford an empty shell but not a protective tower.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in San Gimignano with kids.

    San Gimignano’s towers

     

    Planning a Visit to San Gimignano With Kids

     

    Transportation to San Gimignano With Kids

    Without traffic or stops along the way, San Gimignano is about an hour and a half from Pisa.  We had planned to leave Pisa right after breakfast and spend the day exploring Tuscany.  However, we decided to postpone our departure so that we could visit the Duomo, the Baptistery and climb to the top of the Leaning Tower, and we did not leave Pisa until about 12:30 pm.  We decided to stop for lunch at about 2:00 p.m. at the Toscana Resort Castelfalfi before continuing the last half hour to San Gimignano.  We could see the remaining 14 medieval towers miles before we reached the outskirts of this idyllic town, which is surrounded by vineyards and cypress trees.

    View of San Gimignano

     

    Visit San Gimignano With Kids

    The city center is a limited traffic zone.  Luckily, we noticed the “ZTL” signs because our GPS directed us into the prohibited zone several times while we were trying to locate parking.  There are significant fines for cars entering these zones without permission.  The GPS confusion required several u-turns, but we eventually located a parking lot just outside the wall and headed into the city center.  Because our daughter had rested in the car on the way to San Gimignano, we went sans stroller.  Even with a three year old walking on her own and without a good map, we reached Piazza del Duomo within about 10-15 minutes.  This 12th century Collegiate Church of San Gimignano (aka “the Duomo”) is not as intricate or ornate as the focal churches Venice, Pisa, Florence or Rome, but it is still an impressive example of Romanesque architecture.  Because of our limited time, we did not visit the interior but enjoyed a bit of people watching in the Piazza.

    Collegiate Church of San Gimignano

     

    An Afternoon in Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano

    Adjacent to Piazza del Duomo is Piazza della Cisterna, which is a triangular gathering place named for the cistern that was accessed from the well in the center of the square.  This Piazza is the home of the world-famous Gelateria Dondoli, which boasts its status as the Gelato World Champion for 2006-07 and 2008-09.  Gelato was a daily afternoon indulgence during our time in Italy, and we definitely could distinguish excellent gelato from corner shop gelato.  However, the line at Gelateria Dondoli was simply too long, and we desperately wanted to sit in the shade.  So, we choose Le Terrazze across the Piazza instead.

    The line stretched out the door at Gelateria Dondoli

    I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of vernaccia, a San Gimignano wine made from indigenous grapes, while my husband and our kids selected their gelato flavors.  We spent about 45 minutes relaxing on the shaded patio.

    After we were all refreshed, we took a look at the octagonal well at the center of the Piazza.  This well was originally built in 1273 and enlarged in 1346.

     

    Best View in San Gimignano For Kids

    We decided that the perfect end to our afternoon in San Gimignano would be to check out the 360 degree hilltop view.  So, we took a short walk to the Rocca.  The view most definitely did not disappoint.

    View from the Rocca

    Our visit to San Gimignano was a rare time that we did not bring our stroller on a sightseeing adventure and was pleasantly walkable for three year old legs.  We all particularly enjoyed the medieval touches of the city during the walk back to our car.

     

    Why We Loved San Gimignano With Kids

    San Gimignano is a beautiful medieval hill town.  While we spent most of our time in Italy exploring large metropolitan tourist centers, it was refreshing to spend an afternoon in this quaint town full of old world charm.  Our two and a half hour visit gave us plenty of time to see the town, but there are plenty of overnight accommodations for visitors who want to extend their stay.  Make sure to check out the rest of our blog posts on Florence and Tuscany before planning your next family adventure to Italy!

  • Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    When we planned to spend five days in Rome at the end of our ten days in Italy, a day in Vatican City was at the absolute top of our must do list.  The Pope resides in Vatican City in Italy, which is generally considered as the center of the Catholic Church.  As Catholics, this was a unique religious pilgrimage.  Vatican City may be the world’s smallest country, but it is chock full of religious, architectural and artistic wows that make it a must-see destination, even for families with young children.  We loved visiting Vatican City with kids.

    The Vatican City attractions are the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and St. Peter’s Square.  The Vatican Museums are the fourth most visited art museum in the world with 6.4 million visitors in 2017 and the fifth largest art museum in the world.  The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican Museums and the chapel of the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope (although Pope Francis chose to live in the Vatican guest house instead).  St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and considered the most renowned example of Renaissance architecture.   The key-hole shaped St. Peter’s Square was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and can hold a whopping 300,000 people.

    A Day in Vatican City With Kids

    Getting to the Vatican With Kids

    The night before our trip to Vatican City, we wondered if passports were necessary.  A quick Google search clearly indicated they were not, and we were relieved to leave them hidden in our Airbnb.  We took the Metro from Barberini to Ottaviano, which was a quick five-stop journey on Line A of the Metro.  From Ottaviano, the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica are each about a 10 minute walk but in different directions.  We had no problem following the crowds toward the Vatican Museums.  Along the way, we were approached by seemingly dozens of tour guides offering tickets and packages but were fortunate to have prebooked our Vatican City ticket and did not have to chance the legitimacy of these tours.

    Vatican City Tickets 

    There are many options for Vatican Museum skip the line tours.  We prebooked our Vatican Museums tickets (which included a guided tour and Sistine Chapel entry) directly through the Vatican Museums’ website, as recommended by our friends at Two Traveling Tots.  Our kids generally enjoy guided tour, and we were not concerned that this wasn’t specifically a Vatican tour for kids.  We arrived in Vatican City more quickly than expected and uncharacteristically one hour early for our 11 a.m. tour.  When we arrived at the Vatican City entrance, we showed our booking voucher to the customer care staff outside the entrance and were told to return at 10:30 a.m., 30 minutes before our 11:00 am tour.  So, we found a bit of shade and stood with all the other early tourists and were grateful that we weren’t standing in the line for visitors arriving without tickets that stretched around the corner and down the street.  A couple at the front of the line told me that they had been waiting for two hours.

    Waiting for our designated entry time

    At 10:30 a.m., we presented our vouchers for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel tour and were vaguely directed inside to collect our tickets.  We first tried an automated machine in the lobby, but found that it did not work because we had ordered reduced price tickets for our sons.  We stood in line at the ticket counter on the left side of the lobby but discovered that was also wrong.  We ended up finding the correct counters by the door leading from the lobby into the Museums, collected our tickets and headed to the designated meeting point not long before our 11 am tour.

    The correct ticket counters for visitors with guided tour vouchers

    Our designated meeting point

    Our tour guide, Patrick, gave us each a headset.  After the group had assembled, he explained that the tour would be an hour and a half to two hours and end at the Sistine Chapel.  Because silence is required in the Sistine Chapel and tour guide narration is strictly prohibited, Patrick spent about 15 minutes in front of a diagram of the Sistine Chapel located outside of the Vatican Museums describing in detail what we would see when we did reach the Chapel.

    Our first official stop on the tour was the Cortile della Pigna where Patrick talked about the Fontana della Pigna.  This sculpture of a pine cone and peacocks dates back to the 1st or 2nd century and used to be a fountain.  The Pigna was located near the Pantheon until the Middle Ages.

    Fontana della Pigna

    We then proceeded into the Vatican Museums, which contain four miles of displays of one of the world’s best art collections from antiquity to Renaissance.  Our visit to the Louvre, the mother of all art museums, less than two weeks earlier, in no way prepared us for the massive crowds that piled into the Vatican Museums.  With a family of five, including a stroller, it was often a challenge to stay together and with our tour group among the shoulder to shoulder crowd that made me feel like I was perpetually in the Mona Lisa room.  The Tapestry Gallery was particularly crowded, likely because it was air-conditioned to protect the tapestries.  Tapestries from Raphael’s workshop are displayed on the left wall, and the sculpted reliefs on the ceiling are breathtaking.

    This was what the crowd looked like pretty much in every gallery of the Vatican Museums

    The Gallery of Maps features a series of topographic maps commissioned by Pope Gregorius XIII.  The 40 panels were completed by geographer Ignazio Danti between 1580 and 1583.  The ceiling was colorful and memorable.  Apparently, the windows provide a great view of Vatican City, but there was clearly no ability to stop on the day we visited.

    Ceiling of the Map Gallery

    Impressively detailed maps of Italy

    Raphael’s Rooms are four galleries that were previously papal apartments and contain frescoes by Raphael and his assistants completed between 1508 and 1524.  The second room, Stanza della Segnatura, features Raphael’s famous School of Athens, which depicts Aristotle and Socrates.  Leonardo da Vinci appears as Plato, and Raphael appears as himself.  Raphael painted School of Athens while Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and added Michelangelo at the front.

    Raphael’s School of Athens

    As we left Raphael’s Rooms, our tour guide instructed the group that we would go down a few staircases and then reconvene.  My husband and I somehow got separated in the crowd and each thought the other was in front.  All three kids, including my daughter, who was soundly sleeping in her stroller, were with me.  The two boys and I made sure that she was tightly buckled into her stroller and carefully carried it down several staircases, all absolutely packed with people not particularly willing to give us the extra space we needed.  For some time, I could still hear Patrick talking through my headset but never found him again.  I managed to stay calm during those chaotic 20 minutes even though I did not have cell service, WiFi wasn’t available, and we had no backup plan for meeting if we got separated.  While the art was definitely spectacular, it was my husband who was the most welcome sight when we entered the Sistine Chapel.  We recommend a visit to the Vatican for kids.  The tour was informative, but we will likely arrive with a detailed map and go the self-guided route next time or take a private Vatican tour with kids.

     

    Visiting the Sistine Chapel With Kids

    The Sistine Chapel is the Pope’s personal chapel and where new popes are elected during the Papal Enclave.  It is world-renowned for its ceiling, a cornerstone work of High Renaissance art painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512.  We were glad that Patrick provided historical background and details of the paintings before our tour of the Vatican Museums began.  Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to paint the flattened barrel vault ceiling and envisioned each of the 12 triangular pendentives to contain the image of one of the apostles.  Michelangelo first declined, insisting he was a sculptor rather than a painter, but eventually accepted on the condition that he have artistic license.  Michelangelo was in his mid 30s when he painted these ceiling frescos, which depict nine panels illustrating the Book of Genesis.   He completed the 5,900 square feet of painting almost entirely on his own (in contrast to Raphael, who employed assistants to complete his designs).  The famous center panel features The Creation of Adam and depicts God reaching out to give life to the first human.

    Twenty-three years after completing the Sistine Chapel ceiling, Michelangelo returned to the Sistine Chapel to paint his Last Judgment.  Patrick described how Michelangelo placed Jesus in the center and incorporated the image of an archbishop who was critical of his work naked and in hell.  These memorable stories stayed with us even though we had to wait until the very end of the tour to see the Chapel first-hand.

    While Pope John Paul II was Pope from 1978 to 2005, there have been two Papal Enclaves since his death.  Pope Benedict XVI was elected during the Papal Enclave that occurred in the Sistine Chapel following Pope John Paul II’s death.  After Pope Benedict XVI retired in 2013, Pope Francis was elected during the second Papal Enclave held inside the Sistine Chapel in eight years.

    Photography is strictly prohibited in the Sistine Chapel as is talking, and covered shoulders were a must.  Guards regularly repeat, “Silence” to remind awe-struck visitors that this is a high holy chapel.   After we spent about 20 minutes oohing and aahing, we left the Sistine Chapel and were happy to find both bathrooms and a souvenir shop before continuing to St. Peter’s Basilica about 30 minutes later.

    • Napping in the Sistine Chapel:  As full disclosure, my three-year old daughter slept through our entire visit to the Sistine Chapel.  She never laid eyes on Michelangelo’s ceiling or Last Judgment, and we weren’t concerned.  At age three, she had visited six of the eight most visited art museums in the world and countless cathedrals, basilicas and chapels.  We can’t control when she needs to sleep and wouldn’t dare to purposely wake her in the middle of the Pope’s chapel.  It wouldn’t be a pretty sight for anyone.  She did wake up on her own to fully enjoy St. Peter’s Basilica.
    • Pro tip:  Follow the exit at the back of the Chapel directly to St. Peter’s Basilica.  It is officially for Vatican guides and their groups only and not 100% reliable and meant we missed the stunning double helix Brumante Staircase, but it saved us from waiting in another security line outside of St. Peter’s.

     

    Visiting St. Peter’s Basilica With Kids

    St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and the site of St. Peter’s tomb, which is believed to be directly underneath the main altar.  St. Peter was one of the 12 Apostles and moved to Rome and became the first Pope after witnessing the resurrection of Jesus.  He was crucified in about A.D. 65 under Emperor Nero Augustus Caesar.  Emperor Constantine built a church on the site where St. Peter was martyred in the fourth century, but by the 16th century, the Old St. Peter’s church was falling apart.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the interior decorating was finished.

    View of St. Peter’s Basilica from the Colonnades

    For visitors who do not arrive at St. Peter’s from the special Sistine Chapel exit, there is no admission to enter St. Peter’s, but the security lines can be lengthy at times.  At the far-right entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica, we saw the Holy Door, which is opened in designated Jubilee years that occur every 25 or 50 years (last of which was in 2000) or as specially designated by the Pope.  Pope Francis designated 2015-2016 an Extraordinary Jubilee of Mercy and opened the Holy Door out of cycle.  My friend and his wife were able to walk through it during this exciting year.  Because 2018 is not a Jubilee Year, it was closed and even boarded up from the inside but still beautiful to see.  I’m not sure why I’m so fascinated by this door, but I’m secretly planning for Spring Break 2025, the next Jubilee Year.  I am already planning the 2-3 perfectly timed days we’ll spend in Rome when we will secure tickets for a papal audience or papal Mass, visit the Pantheon early in the morning, fully explore the Vatican Museums, show my daughter the Sistine Chapel and find a way to check out the Spiral Staircase and use the secret exit connecting the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter’s Basilica.

    The Holy Door

    We entered St. Peter’s directly from the Sistine Chapel and were overwhelmed by the immense size.  We had just been wowed in the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo’s painting of the ceiling and Last Judgment, and it’s hard to believe that Sistine Chapel masterpieces could be considered as a prelude to Michelangelo’s work in St. Peter’s.  Michelangelo’s sculpture, Pieta, is a representation of Mary holding Jesus’ body that shows his skills as a master sculptor.  It is unbelievable to me that he completed Pieta, his first major commission that is now displayed at St. Peter’s, at age 24.

    Michelangelo’s Pieta

    Michelangelo not only created paintings and sculptures that would be recognized among the most notable works of art 500 years after his death but also designed St. Peter’s Basilica dome, which rises 448 feet (longer than the length of a football field).  Michelangelo was named lead architect in 1546 and studied the domes of the Pantheon and Florence‘s Duomo before designing his plans.  Michelangelo continued working on the dome until his death in 1564.

    Michelangelo’s dome

    The Basilica’s main altar is made of a marble slab and surrounded by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s impressive seven-story bronze canopy and located below the dome.   My eight year old photographer made sure to capture the view.

    Bernini’s dove window was one of my favorite ever.  It may not be as intricate or as colorful as medieval stained glass, but I couldn’t take my eyes off this alabaster window.

    The Tomb of Pope John Paul II is located in St. Peter’s below St. Sebastian, his favorite saint.  Pope John Paul II was the Pope of my young life and sainted in 2014.

    Tomb of Pope John Paul II

    Our last stop in St. Peter’s was to visit the crypt, which contains the tombs of many popes, but photography is not permitted, and we also did not sneak any unauthorized pictures.  We spent approximately 45 minutes in St. Peter’s before heading outside into St. Peter’s Square.

     

    St. Peter’s Square With Kids

    St. Peter’s Square is one of the world’s most famous squares.  It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and includes 284 Doric columns, each 56 feet tall and topped with sculptures of 140 saints.  The square is an elliptical shape to symbolize the arms of the Church welcoming all people.

    Checking out the obelisk

    In the center stands an Egyptian obelisk, which is 2,000 years old and 90 feet tall.  It is made of granite and weighs about 300 tons.

    We spent some time wandering through the covered walkway around the Square, desperate to stay in the shade as long as possible.  We found one of the many Roman water fountains and used it to hydrate and cool off.  After spending about 30 minutes in St. Peter’s Square, we headed off in search of lunch.

     

    Why We Loved the Vatican For Kids

    Our visit to Vatican City was certainly one of the most educational parts of our trip.  We all gained a much deeper understanding of Renaissance art and architecture, developed a newfound appreciation for Michelangelo and learned quite a bit of Catholic history.  It would have certainly been easier to visit without a stroller, but even my three year old enjoyed her time in Vatican City, particularly St. Peter’s Basilica.  We definitely recommend Vatican City for kids.  To find out more about family travel to Italy, check out our other blog posts about Rome, Florence and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Blogiversary

    Blogiversary

    One year ago today, we officially launched We Go With Kids.  We had no idea where this new endeavor might lead, but we were excited to share our family travel experiences.  We hoped that this website would encourage others to travel with kids but didn’t realize that We Go With Kids would further inspire our own wanderlust.  Despite our respective full-time lawyer gigs, we fit in quite a bit of travel – most notably with Nancy taking her three year old on his first international trip and embarking on her first solo mother-son trip abroad and Catherine booking a 17-day European vacation 5 1/2 weeks before departure.  We’ve certainly learned quite a bit about blogging, SEO and social media and also met a whole host of amazing family travelers along the way.  And, after 10 years, we also met up for a quick 24 hours of sightseeing at the National Mall and squeezed in a few relaxing hours reminiscing in Gaithersburg.  We can’t wait to see what adventures the next year holds and hope we can get our combined five kids together again sooner rather than later.

    First Year Stats

    Countries visited

    • Catherine – 5
    • Nancy – 3

    States visited:

    • Catherine – 12
    • Nancy – 8

    Flights taken

    • Catherine – 21
    • Nancy – 16

    Posts published:  186

    Total followers – 2,891

  • Planning a Trip to Rome With Kids

    Planning a Trip to Rome With Kids

    Rome has always been high on my bucket list.  I didn’t visit the Eternal City when I traveled to Italy as a college backpacker and have regretted that decision for years.  After finding a last-minute flight to Paris for our family’s summer vacation, we decided to tack on 10 days in Italy.  Rome was my main priority and the final city on our Italian itinerary.  We were traveling with our three kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) and purposefully avoided traveling to Italy in August when Italian families traditionally vacation.  Even though it was hot and crowded during our mid-July visit, I was so glad to finally explore Rome and gain a new understanding of European history.  It was also extra special to experience that same first-time wonder and excitement as my kids while exploring Rome together.  This guide to planning a trip to Rome with kids covers all the essentials for a wonderful trip.

    Arch of Constantine

    Traveling to and from Rome With Kids

    We traveled to Rome via a quick 90 minute train journey on Trenitalia from Florence.  The train cost a total of €96 for our family of five.  There was no charge for our three year old, but no seat was reserved for her.  Upon exiting the train station in Rome, we inquired about the cost of a taxi to our nearby Airbnb but refused to be price gauged when quoted €35 and chose to take the Metro two stops instead.

    Trenitalia

    We booked an Easyjet flight from Rome’s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy.  Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372.  The taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50.  The taxi was very convenient because we did not want to schlep our kids and bags on the train and Metro.  Our driver was particularly professional and gave us a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.

    FCO Airport

    FCO was an easy airport to navigate, and I saved all five tickets to my Apple wallet for the first time, as we had no opportunity to print them out.  The kids were ecstatic to find the Italian version of the Wimpy Kid series in the gift shop, especially after finding an Icelandic version in our Reykjavik Airbnb the previous summer.

    Although it is only a two hour flight from Rome to Paris, the entire journey took about seven and a half hours door to door from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre.  We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train journey from Paris to Venice.

    Accommodations in Rome With Kids

    We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb.  This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs.  The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible.  Our host, David, was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine.  David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out.  We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.

    Living Room

    Bedroom

    Local Transportation in Rome With Kids

    We found Rome very walkable, but the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.  In our combined five days in the city, we took a total of six Metro rides. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6,  3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24.  Because we used the Metro on infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding.  Children under 10 do not require tickets.  Rome Metro’s driverless Line C is currently under construction to connect the city’s eastern quadrant with its northwest quadrant, and the construction zone was particularly noticeable near the Colosseum.

    Metro ticket machine

    We did not figure out the bus system, which probably was not the complicated maze it seemed to be, but walking just seemed much easier.

    Packing for Rome With Kids

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two BubbleBum booster seats.  WOW air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.

     

    Our luggage

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When it didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziplock organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip (and then delayed).

    Food in Rome With Kids

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Rome was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals (and gelato) guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day and never made reservations in Rome.  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than a oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    Menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water so we always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal.  The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight.  One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.

    Our favorite restaurant was in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome.

    Gioia Mia Pisciapiano

    In addition to the delicious meals, I also enjoyed my morning cappuccino at the cafe right next to our Airbnb.  I had been warned that “coffee” in Italy is really espresso, which is not my preference, but the cappuccino was divine and aesthetically pleasing as well.  Each morning, I ordered my cappuccino, paid €1.20, and then watched as the barista expertly prepared my cappuccino.  Like all the other customers, I drank while standing up along side the counter.  Like many Italian cafes, liquor was stored on higher shelves so the same space could morph into a happy hour location later in the day.

    We also made sure to have gelato every afternoon.  Our favorite was Il Gelato di San Crispino, which uses only natural ingredients and gained world-wide fame after being featured in The New York Times in 1996 and later by Elizabeth Gilbert in Eat Pray Love.  We visited the Trevi Fountain branch twice and ordered take out after dinner on our last night in Rome to enjoy in the comfort of our apartment.

    We found snacks and produce at corner shops rather outrageously price, but we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome not far from the Trevi Fountain.  We also maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the cold water fountains around Rome.

    Cell Service in Rome

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment.  While WiFi was usually available at restaurants, we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

    Currency in Rome

    We definitely needed to use euros at times, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

    Language Barrier in Rome?

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  We experienced no language barriers in Rome.

    Pick Pocketing Warning in Rome 

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Rome and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station.  A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.

    Planning Our 5 Day Itinerary for Rome

    To help get our kids involved with planning our five nights in Rome, I borrowed some children’s books on Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know.  My eight year old and I went through one and made a list of what we wanted to see, and I started doing research to determine what attractions require advance bookings.  Our top 10 list included the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica, the Colosseum, the Forum/Palentine Hill, the Pantheon, the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, the Mouth of Truth and the Borghese Gardens.  We pre-booked our tour of the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel and also ordered tickets to the Colosseum/Palentine Hill/Forum online, but the rest of the attractions did not require advance tickets or even charge admission.  The only time we had to wait was at the Mouth of Truth where tourists regularly wait about 30 minutes with this marble mask in the portico of the Santa Maria in Cosmedin church.

    The Mouth of Truth

    We looked into the Roma Pass; however, we decided that it was not worth the cost for what we had planned.  We booked our two attractions with admission directly through each website and skipped dreaded lines.

    5 Day Itinerary Itinerary for Rome

    Our time in Rome was near the end of our 17 day trip, and we planned to take a slower pace, sit and enjoy meals and really explore the city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, but it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we made it to everything on our top 10 list.

    Our basic daily itinerary:

    Day One

    • Train arrives at 3:30 p.m.
    • Watch the World Cup Final
    • Walk to the Trevi Fountain
    • Dinner

    Day Two

    • Metro to Colosseum
    • Pick up tickets and book afternoon guided tour
    • Explore Palentine Hill and the Forum
    • Colosseum guided tour
    • Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
    • Trevi Fountain
    • Walk back to Airbnb

    Day Three

    • Pantheon
    • Santa Maria sopra Minerva
    • Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius
    • Piazza Navona
    • Spanish Steps

    Day Four

    • Guided Tour of Vatican
    • Sistine Chapel
    • St. Peter’s Basilica
    • Afternoon siesta

    Day Five

    • Mouth of Truth
    • Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin
    • Walk around the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum
    • Borghese Gardens

    Day Six

    • Breakfast
    • Shopping
    • Leave for Airport at noon

    Why We Loved Rome With Kids

    Visiting Rome gave us the chance to take a peek into the ancient world and also explore Vatican City, the center of the Catholic Church.  Our brief visit provided a mini course on the Roman Empire and the Renaissance, and the city was easily manageable with kids.  Considering a trip to Rome with kids?  Make sure to check out the rest of our series on Rome with kids, coming soon!

  • Visiting the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Visiting the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Thank you to the Palace of Versailles for providing complimentary tickets for my family.  As always, all opinions are my own. 

    The Palace of Versailles definitely earns its title as the world’s most spectacular palace.  Versailles was France’s royal palace from the late seventeenth century until the French Revolution and is certainly the most opulent building I’ve ever toured and the clearest symbol of royal excess.  A visit to the Versailles Palace was high on the to do list during our visit to Paris with our three kids, ages 3, 8 and 10.  Although it did require a trip out of the city center, we really enjoyed visiting the Palace of Versailles with kids.

    A Tour of Versailles With Kids

    The Palace of Versailles and its Louises

    The Chateau de Versailles was completed in 1682 during the reign of Louis XIV.   The Sun King’s reign began when he was only four years old and lasted 72 years, making him the longest recorded monarch in Europe.  Louis XIV enjoyed Versailles as a primary residence for over 30 years until his death in 1715.  Because Louis XIV’s eldest son and eldest grandson, each also named Louis, both predeceased him, the Sun King’s five year old great-grandson, Louis XV succeeded him.  The reign of Louis XV lasted 59 years.  Louis XV’s eldest son (yup, another Louis) predeceased him , and so Louis XV was succeeded by his grandson, Louis XVI.  These combined six Louises each married a woman named Marie or Maria, except the Louis XV’s son, who married one of each.  The seventeenth and eighteenth century members of the French royal family were clearly imaginative when it came to names….

    Bernini’s Bust of Louis XIV in the Salon of Diana

    The Palace of Versailles remained the principal residence of France’s royal family until the royal family was evicted by royal protesters at the beginning of the French Revolution in 1789.  A few months later, Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette were famously beheaded in the Place de la Concorde. Versailles was opened as a museum in 1837.  In addition to its stunning Baroque architecture, Versailles includes 700 rooms, 5,000 pieces of antique furniture and 6,000 notable paintings.  Its estimated value is over $50 billion.

     

    Getting to the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    Versailles is about a 35-45 minute train ride outside of Paris on the RER train, which is somewhat more complicated to navigate than the Metro.  We found this guide very helpful for step by step directions.  We purchased round trip tickets for two adults (€7.10 each) and two children (€3.55 each) to Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche at the Chatelet les Halles Metro station.  Our three year old daughter did not require a ticket.  The four of us each received two tickets (one for our journey there and one for our return) and were careful to keep the two sets separate before we began our journey.  We traveled by Metro one stop on the B5 Metro to St. Michel – Notre Dame where we transferred to the RER-C.  The screens on the platform clearly identified the upcoming train schedule, and we waited for a train indicating a stop at Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche, Versailles Chat or Versailles RG (not Versailles-Chantier or Versailles-Rive Droit).  By the time the train to Versailles arrived at the platform, there was definitely a crowd of waiting tourists.

    Once we arrived at the Versailles Chateau Rive Gauche station, we crossed the street at the pedestrian cross walk and turned right onto the pedestrian pathway leading to the Palace.

    Pedestrian walkway to the Palace of Versailles

     

    A Family Visit to the Palace of Versailles 

    Although Sunday is typically the most crowded day at Versailles, it was the only day that worked on our Paris itinerary for us to visit.  Our day at Versailles also happened to be the hottest day during our time in Paris.  We arrived at about 10 am and were amazed at the length of the line to purchase tickets and also the security line, which was about two hours long and without shade.  Although the Royal Gate, which is decorated with 100,000 gold leaves with the Palace behind, is a breathtaking sight, we were very grateful to have expedited entry on this hot morning.

    The Royal Gate

    Strollers are not permitted in the Palace, so we checked our daughter’s stroller at the free left luggage facility and then proceeded into the Palace where we picked up free audioguides (available for guests ages eight and over only) on the way into the Palace where we immediately ran into a costumed Louis XIV and his entourage.  The Palace was extremely packed.  Although not quite the shoulder to shoulder crowd that we found in the Vatican Museums, it was challenging at times for the five of us to stay together and to focus on the informative audioguide while absorbing these incredible rooms.  My three year old daughter asked to be carried at times, but the knowledge that princesses had lived in the Palace held her interest, and she enjoyed wandering from room to room.

    Statue of Louis XIV in the Salon of Venus and the Versailles crowds

    My favorite room in the Palace was the Hall of Mirrors, which is 236 feet long with 17 arched windows and 17 beveled mirrors.  I imagined Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette’s basking in the glory of this room during their wedding reception as I walked through the Hall where the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919.

    Hall of Mirrors

    • Pro-tips:  Book a guided Palace of Versailles tour to skip the security line.  Free Wifi is available in the courtyard and in the entrance to the Gardens but is spotty.

    The Gardens of the Palace of Versailles With Kids

    It’s no surprise that Louis XIV considered the Gardens as important as the Palace.  The Gardens of Versailles are the finest  French formal gardens.  We enjoyed sneak peek views of the lavish gardens from the Palace windows.

    A room with a view

    The gardens near the Palace are a brilliant combination of color and carefully pruned trees and shrubs.  It would be a wonderful place to sit in the shade if benches and shade were more plentiful.  We enjoyed a nice stroll instead….

    Taking time to smell the flowers

    From the Palace, the Royal Drive stretches to the Grand Canal far into the horizon.  Groves expand out from either side of the Royal Drive in an elaborate grid.  Our boys decided to race each other down the Royal Drive to stretch their legs and returned desperate for water, so we headed to a snack area for drinks and ice cream.  In the meantime, my daughter stumbled on the gravel path and skinned her knee, and I discovered that I did not have any band-aids with me.  While she was reiterating that she needed a band-aid, a woman standing in front of us in the bathroom line reached into her handbag and offered her two.  Note to self: make sure to carry a stash of band aids in every handbag so that I can pay this kindness forward.

    Latona Fountain, Royal Drive and Grand Canal

    After picking up ice cream for everyone, we headed down a passage in search of a bench in the shade and were delighted to find just what we were looking for as the afternoon water display began.  The water display was part of the Garden’s Musical Fountain Shows, which feature over 50 water fountains accompanied by classical music.

    Exploring the Garden pathways

    The Fountain show was a spectacular combination of art, music, botany and architecture.

    Fountain show

    The Trianon Palaces and Domaine de Marie-Antoinette are at the far end of the Gardens, but we were too exhausted to make the hike. So, we saved those for next time….

    • Pro-tips for the Palace of Versailles: The Gardens are massive, and the pathways are made of small stones.  Sandals are doable, but with the dust, I would have preferred sneakers.  Entry to the Gardens is free except when the Musical Fountain Shows or the Musical Gardens occur.

    We definitely recommend a tour of the Palace of Versailles for kids.  Visiting Versailles and its unparalleled Palace and Gardens was a truly enchanting, bucket-list adventure.  It may have been a particularly tiring day, but one we will never forget.

    Every so often, we encounter a place that is so fabulous for those traveling with kids that it is worthy of being featured on its own. For more fabulous locations, please check out our other Spotlight features!  Also, be sure to check out all our category of posts on Paris with kids

  • Spotlight:  Play: CLE With Kids

    Spotlight: Play: CLE With Kids

    Thank you to Play:  CLE for providing complimentary tickets for my family.  As always, all opinions are my own. 

    Play:  CLE, the largest indoor adventure park in the U.S., was the perfect location for a few hours of fun and fitness.  I visited with Play: CLE, which is located in Avon on Cleveland’s West side, with my three kids, ages four, eight and ten, the week before the new school year began. We had never been to an indoor adventure park and were not exactly sure what to expect but found plenty of opportunities for running, jumping and  climbing.  Even I stretched my comfort zone by trying the ropes course and zip line.   Play: CLE was kid-friendly and truly enjoyable for the whole family.

    Visiting Play: CLE With Kids

    After reading that Play: CLE was not geared for children under age seven, I was not sure if there would be enough attractions suitable for my four year old to keep her occupied for three hours and considered leaving her with my parents.  But, my daughter is pretty easy-going and does not like to be left out of any adventure.  So, I packed a backpack with some books and games in case she got bored (spoiler:  she didn’t) and was thrilled that my father-in-law and sister-in-law decided to join us.  They enjoy watching the kids have any kind of adventure and were helpful extra hands at Play: CLE as they were able to watch the kids while I attempted the ropes course and zip line.   Because they wanted to spectate rather than participate, they did not need to pay  admission.

    We arrived as soon as Play: CLE opened and were among the first guests.  I completed the waiver forms (which I would have done online in advance of our arrival if I was more organized), and each of the kids were measured and weighed and given color coded wristbands to indicate which activities they could do.  Guests need to be able to reach to 5 feet, 6 inches to use the ropes course, weigh 60-275 pounds to use the zip line and weigh 50-275 pounds to use the climbing walls.  My ten year old and his friend were able to use all of the equipment, my eight year old was limited to the attractions at ground level (e.g. everything but the ropes course and zip line), and my daughter could do anything on the ground level that did not require a harness.

    I stored my handbag and my daughter’s backpack in the see through lockers that operated like a hotel safe. Our things were safely stored but also easy to access at any time.  Next time, I’ll bring water bottles for everyone.

    Easy to use lockers

    Prior to our visit, we read that the ropes course tends to have the longest line, so, the ten year olds headed there first.  The ropes courses were their favorite attraction, and they did both courses before zip lining down to the lower level.  The zip line travels up to 35 miles per hour from one end of the park to the other.

    Ropes course

    Activities at Play: CLE With Kids

    I decided to get my bearings before attempting the ropes course myself and regretted it when I had to wait about 20 minutes after I finally mustered the courage to attempt the ropes course.  While I don’t have a fear of heights, this kind of challenge is definitely outside of my usual comfort zone.  After I was fitted with a harness, I received a short lesson on how to use the claws to safely maneuver around the course.  It was not always easy to connect the claws to the cables, but I liked that it was impossible to disconnect both claws from the cable.  I felt more comfortable with the harness and the claws after a few obstacles and did find my rhythm.  In the end, I was glad to be on solid ground and proud of myself for trying something new.  I also took a ride the zip line to the opposite end of the park and then headed down to the ground level.

    My daughter loved the little kid parkour area and was so pleased to figure out a few tricks to help her get from one obstacle to the next without touching the floor.  She also had a blast going through the ninja warrior course even although she was too small to reach many of the challenge elements and thought the goal was to climb over low obstacles.  The boys also found that they were not big enough to complete all of the challenges in their intended manner, and they focused on other activities at Play: CLE.

    Ninja warrior course

    Play:  CLE had several climbing activities.  The boys preferred the massive bouldering wall, which had a large air bag at the bottom for safety.  They tried several different paths rated easy to hard.

    Bouldering

    There are also eight different climbing walls that guests climb with the aid of harnesses.  My eight year old’s favorite involved climbing a series of pillars and then repelling back down to the ground.

    After a few hours, the kids needed a break for lunch, and we ordered lunch from Play: CLE’s onsite restaurant, the Biner (shorthand for caribiner).  Our party thoroughly enjoyed delicious burgers, hot dogs, quesadillas and chicken.  There is also a full bar, including craft beers, wines and specialty drinks.

    Why We Loved Play: CLE With Kids

    When it was time to leave, my daughter took off running toward the equipment as I pulled her untouched backpack out of the locker.   Extra toys and books were definitely superfluous.  I should have guessed that they wouldn’t be necessary – she handled lengthy tours of the Vatican and Louvre a few weeks earlier without toys, books or snacks.  Play: CLE in Avon is great for kids who love to climb in CLE.  My kids would love to return to Play: CLE, and it will be an especially fun excursion at some point during Cleveland’s long winter….

    • Play: CLE hours:  Play: CLE’s hours vary by season.  Check the website before planning a visit.
    • Play: CLE tickets:  Passes for two, three and four hours are available and range from $20 to $45.  Children under six are free with a paying adult.
    • Play: CLE parking:  Free parking is available in an adjacent lot.
    • Play: CLE waiver:  All visitors need to complete a waiver before entering.

    Every so often, we encounter a place that is so fabulous for those traveling with kids that it is worthy of being featured on its own. For more fabulous locations, please check out our other Spotlight features!  Also, be sure to check out all our category of posts on Cleveland with kids

  • Planning a Family Trip to Italy With Kids

    Planning a Family Trip to Italy With Kids

    When we started considering Europe as a summer vacation destination, we immediately wanted to combine visits to both Italy and France.  Our three kids, aged 3, 8 and 10, had never been to Italy, and Rome and Venice had been high on my bucket list ever since I visited Florence as a college backpacker.  Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, we had a lovely Italian holiday filled with delicious meals and visits to iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites, palaces, gardens and art museums.  We enjoyed planning a family trip to Italy with kids and put together this Italy trip planner for other families!

    The Colosseum

     

    Traveling to Italy With Kids

    Wondering how to plan a family trip to Italy?  Start with making travel arrangements to and from Italy.  We booked our trip to Paris and Italy a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues.  We discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on Wow air to Paris,  However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.

    When we went to book the evening flight I had found from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to boats.  Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and some do not allow check ins after a certain time.  Because the risk of not having accommodations was simply too great to even consider, we decided to research overnight trains.   Almost immediately, we found the Thello night train from Paris to Venice that met our needs perfectly.  The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit.  At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.

    Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars.  So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family.  The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost!  I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and Venice and accommodations with late check in fees.

    We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun sleepover experience, and they definitely did.  The three level bunk beds were a particular hit.  We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a particularly relaxed evening in our sleeper car.  Our boys chose the top bunks, and my daughter quickly mastered the ladder.  We all slept for about nine hours of the journey.  The only downside was that the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in.  Find out all about our trip on the Thello night train.

    We booked an EasyJet flight from Rome‘s Leonardo da Vinci–Fiumicino Airport (FCO) to Paris Orly Airport (ORL) at the end of our time in Italy.  Our five tickets and one checked bag cost €372.  Although it is only a two-hour flight, it took about seven and a half hours from the time we left our Airbnb in Rome until we reached our Airbnb in Montmartre.  We pretty much lost an entire day of sightseeing and generally preferred our night train experience.

     

    Travel Within Italy With Kids

    We traveled in Northern Italy by both rental car and train.  We took Trenitalia from Venice to Bologna, where we picked up a rental car to take us to the Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum, Pisa and San Gimignano, and we returned our car upon our arrival in Florence.  We traveled via Trenitalia again from Florence to Rome, a quick 90 minute journey.

    Renting a car was a convenient way to make a bunch of stops slightly off the beaten path without having to worry about storing luggage, which was our major concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day.  However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging.  We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into a limited traffic zone on more than one occasion.  As a result, our preference was definitely traveling by train between cities whenever possible.  Find out all about renting a car in Italy.

    Our rental car

     

    Accommodations in Italy With Kids

    Although booked our trip only a few weeks in advance, we were very pleased with our accommodations in Italy.

    Accommodations in Venice

    We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge.  This authentic Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine.  The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.  The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio.  I noticed a pack and play and high chair in the laundry room and children’s silverware in the drawers that would be extremely helpful for families with babies or toddlers.

    La corte di San Marco Airbnb

     

    Accommodations in Pisa

    Our Pisa hotel, the Relais I Miracoli Residenza D’Epoca was located literally steps from the Tower of Pisa and had the most spectacular view from our window.  Only two rooms in the hotel have this view, and they are both family rooms.  Our room was comfortable, and a stocked mini bar and breakfast at the cafe downstairs were included in the room rate.  We parked our car overnight outside the city walls about five minutes away.

    View from our hotel room

     

    Accommodations in Florence

    We stayed in an Airbnb about a five minute walk from the Duomo.  This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room.  It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine.  We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train.  Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.

    Our Florence Airbnb

     

    Accommodations in Rome

    We wanted to be centrally located in Rome and booked five nights at the Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb.  This two-bedroom apartment was ideally located about a two-minute walk from the Barberini Metro stop and about 10 minutes from the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Stairs.  The furnishings were predominately from Ikea, and the cube storage in the master bedroom was particularly useful in separating each of the kids’ clothes and keeping them easily accessible.  David was a first-rate Superhost, and we would definitely recommend his apartment, which also included a washing machine.  David also let us store our bags in the apartment after check out.  We felt right at home during our five nights in David’s apartment.

    Sole Trevi Fountain Airbnb

     

    Local Transportation within Italy With Kids

    We found most of Italy very walkable but did need to travel at times via vapretto, metro or taxi.

    There are no typical buses or subway system in Venice.  The metro are ferry boats, which are known as vaprettos.   One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas.  Because our Airbnb was centrally located near both Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge, we only used a vapretto for the round trip journey from the train station to the apartment and walked the rest of our time in Venice.  On the way back to the train station, we took a slightly longer but much more scenic route through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.  Find out more about vapretto travel in Venice.

    View from the vapretto in Venice

    While Rome was also a very walkable city, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.  We took only six Metro rides during our five days in Rome. Travel cards for unlimited travel on the Metro and buses can be purchased for 1 day – €6,  3 days – €16.50 and 7 days – €24, but because we used the Metro so infrequently, we purchased single ride tickets for €1.50 each from the vending machine in the station before boarding.  Children under 10 do not require tickets.  Find out more about Metro travel in Rome.

    Ticket machine in Rome’s Metro

    We did not use public transportation at all in Florence, but we did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb.  We also traveled by taxi to FCO from the Barberini Metro stop cost the fixed price of €50.  Taxis were convenient because we avoided schlepping our kids and bags through the streets of Florence while getting our bearings and on the train and Metro in Rome.  Our drivers were particularly professional, and we even got a mini tour of the outskirts of Rome.

    Packing for a Family Trip to Italy

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats.  Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us and packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with  a maximum of four to five outfits each.

     

    Our luggage

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While we did need to carry the stroller up and down stairs at times (and over Venice’s bridges, in the Metro stations and at the Forum and Palatine Hill), we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in ziploc bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a backup in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at CDG upon arrival.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When the suitcase didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziploc organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip.

     

    Eating in Italy With Kids

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to the England semi-final World Cup match).  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    We found the perfect table to watch the World Cup, so we booked it for the next night

    Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water but always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    Our favorite restaurant in Rome was Gioia Mia Pisciapiano, where we enjoyed dinner three of our five nights in Rome.  In Florence, we enjoyed our dinner at I Ghibellini so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.

    There were plenty of options for takeout meals, but we typically preferred a sit down meal.  The only exception was Alice Pizza, a chain that sells pizza with fresh toppings and a crunchy crust by weight.  One was conveniently located next to our Airbnb and opened early, so we picked up pizza on the go a few times or ate at the counter.

    Alice Pizza

    I loved starting off my morning with a perfect cup of cappuccino served at the counter of the coffee shop next to our apartment.  Like most coffee shops, alcoholic beverages were stored on higher shelves so that it could double as a spot to grab an early evening drink.

    • Pro Tip:  A “coffee” in Italy is really an espresso shot.  Because this is not my preference, I always opted for a cappuccino but read Cafe Americano is a close substitute as well.

    Morning cappuccino

    We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We did not find a grocery in Venice, Pisa and Florence and found any snacks or produce at corner shops rather outrageously priced.  However, we did purchase some snacks and fruit at a Coop grocery in Rome.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and maintained a supply of bottled water, which we could refill at many of the water fountains around the cities.

    Our most artistic gelato

     

    Cell Service in Italy With Kids

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but ended up only using cell service on the one day we were meeting up with a friend. We had self check-in instructions in Rome and were able to contact our host after connecting to WiFi in the apartment.  WiFi was usually available at restaurants, and it was nice to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

     

    Currency in Italy With Kids

    We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

     

    Language Barrier in Italy With Kids

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where none of the servers spoke English.  We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme.  It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.

     

    Pickpocketing Warning in Italy With Kids

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station.  A well-dressed woman who spoke little English was standing at the top of an escalator and told us we had to use the elevator with the stroller.  While taking a stroller on an escalator is not common in the US, it is very common in Europe, where elevators are often not available.  However, elevators are preferred if easily accessible, especially when we were carrying all of our luggage.  Even though I was not sure if she was a station employee, we thought this was useful information and followed her to the elevator.  Unexpectedly, she and two other women jumped on with us at the last-minute and caused constant confusion obviously trying to distract us during our short ride, even telling us not to get off when we reached the Metro floor.  We remained alert and careful and luckily did not fall victim to their ploy.  After that experience, we were wary of anyone not in uniform offering free advice.

    Find out more about my Travelon anti-theft messenger bag.

     

    Planning Our Italy Family Vacation Itinerary

    To help get our kids involved with planning our Italy family vacation itinerary, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice, Florence and Rome from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know and 13 Buildings Children Should Know.   We initially hoped to make quick stops in Padua, Bologna and Sienna, but later determined that we did not have enough time to tack on even brief visits to additional cities.  The key to finding the best Italy itinerary for families is to prioritize cities to visit and allot enough time in each one.

     

    Family Trip to Italy Itinerary – 11 Days

    We spent 11 days in Italy in the middle of a 17 day European vacation.  We planned to take a slower pace when possible, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore the city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many wonderful cities and sights.  We weren’t able to fit in trips to Cinque Terre or the Amalfi Coast this time, but both are high on our list for our next trip.

    Here is our basic daily Italy with kids itinerary:

    Day One – Venice

    • Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
    • Take vapretto to Airbnb
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Saint Mark’s Square
    • Rialto Bridge
    • Gondola Ride
    • World Cup Game

    Day Two – Venice 

    • Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
    • Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
    • World Cup Game

    Day Three – VeniceModena – Maranello – Pisa

    • Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
    • Train to Bologna
    • Pick up rental car
    • Lamborghini Museum
    • Ferrari Museum
    • Drive to Pisa
    • Explore Tower of Pisa and Field of Miracles at night

    Day Four – Pisa – San GimignanoFlorence

    • Tour Pisa Cathedral and Baptistery
    • Climb the Tower of Pisa
    • Drive through Tuscany
    • Afternoon in San Gimignano
    • Drive to Florence
    • Check in to Airbnb
    • Duomo at night

    Day Five – Florence

    • Palazzo Vecchio
    • David Replica
    • Santa Croce
    • Santa Maria Novella
    • Boboli Gardens

    Day Six – Florence – Rome

    • Attend Mass at the Duomo
    • Roam around Florence
    • Train to Rome departs at 2:40 p.m. and arrives at 4:10 p.m.
    • Watch World Cup Final
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Seven – Rome

    • Pick up Colosseum tickets
    • Visit Palatine Hill/Forum
    • Colosseum tour
    • Monument to Victor Emmanuel II
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Eight – Rome

    • Pantheon
    • Santa Maria sopra Minerva
    • Church of St. Ignatius of Loyola at Campus Martius
    • Piazza Navona
    • Spanish Steps

    Day Nine – RomeVatican City

    • Vatican Museum
    • Sistine Chapel
    • St. Peter’s Basilica
    • St. Peter’s Churches
    • Afternoon siesta
    • Trevi Fountain

    Day Ten – Rome

    • Mouth of Truth
    • Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin
    • Walk around the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum
    • Borghese Gardens

    Day Eleven – RomeParis

    • Breakfast
    • Shopping
    • Leave for Airport at noon

     

    Find Out More About Our Italy Trip With Family

    We definitely recommend Italy family travel.   We hope this guide outlined how to plan a family trip to Italy. Make sure to check out our listing of all blog posts related to travel to Italy with kids!

    The Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum hosted our family’s visits.  As always, all opinions are my own.