We Go With Kids!

Category: italy

  • 20 Free Things to Do in Rome

    20 Free Things to Do in Rome

    Rome is one of the most expensive cities in Europe, and we knew spending five days in Rome was not going to be inexpensive.  However, we were pleasantly surprised at how many of the attractions in Rome were free.  Additionally, although some attractions had admission fees for adults, most attractions were free in Rome for kids.  Here are our favorite 20 free things to do in Rome:

    Free Things in Rome – Pantheon Neighborhood 

     

    #1:  Pantheon With Kids

    The Pantheon was originally completed in 27 B.C. as a Roman temple dedicated to all (pan) of the gods (theos).  It is now over 2000 years old and the most complete ancient Roman building still standing.  The Pantheon’s dome is 142 feet high and wide and was the world’s largest dome until the Renaissance.  It remains the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome.  The concrete walls supporting the dome are a staggering 20 feet thick.  Although it is considered the eighth wonder of the ancient world, there is no admission fee to enter.

    The Pantheon was converted to a Catholic basilica in the seventh century, and its preservation is likely a result of this conversion.  Because the method used to build the dome was not recorded, Brunelleschi and Michelangelo studied the support structure for the Pantheon’s dome, which includes pillars inside the walls, before building the Duomo in Florence and St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City, respectively.

    When we arrived at the Piazza della Rotonda in front of the Pantheon, we spent several minutes standing behind the Fontana del Pantheon, the fountain at the center of the Piazza featuring a 40 foot Egyptian obelisk constructed from a single slab of granite by Ramses II more than 3,000 years ago.  Unlike the other obelisks scattered around Rome, this one featured a cross at the top.  Moving that obelisk from Egypt to Rome was clearly no simple task.  The Pantheon’s entrance consists of eight columns that are each 40 feet high and also constructed from a single piece of granite.

    There was a short line for security, but it moved very quickly.  We visited on a particularly hot day, but the Pantheon was nice and cool inside.  A beam of light shone through the oculus and illuminated the interior, which we explored in detail.  We learned that 80% of the floor tiles are original and are purposely slanted to let rainwater out through the small holes.  We also found Raphael’s tomb below the Altar of Our Lady of the Rock.

    • Pantheon Facts for Kids:  The oculus at the top of the dome is 30 feet in diameter and is the Pantheon’s only light source.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Pantheon With Kids:  On our first visit, we spent about 35 minutes in the Piazza della Rotonda and inside the Pantheon.  We walked through the Piazza della Rotonda several times later in our trip but only visited the Pantheon’s interior once.

     

    #2:  Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica With Kids

    The Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica is Rome’s only remaining Gothic church.  It is located in the Piazza della Minerva, which is adjacent to the Pantheon.  The ceiling of the Gothic interior was painted a brilliant blue in the 19th century and provided an unexpected contrast to all the other Gothic churches we’ve visited in Western Europe.  Michelangelo’s Christ Bearing the Cross statue and the tomb of Saint Catherine of Seina, my patron saint, are located in the Basilica’s interior.

    Piazza della Minerva, which is a small square right outside the Basilica, features the Elephant and Obelisk.  The obelisk was brought to Rome by Diocletian for the Temple of Isis in the 3rd or 4th century.  It is Rome’s smallest obelisk, standing at a height of only about 5.5 meters.  The base was designed by  Gian Lorenzo Bernini in the 17th century.

    • Church of Santa Maria sopra Minerva Basilica Facts for Kids:  The Basilica was built on the former site of a temple dedicated to the Egyptian goddess, Isis, which was mistakenly attributed to the Greco-Roman goddess, Minerva.
    • Time Spent Visiting Church of Santa Maria sopra and Minerva Piazza della Minerva:  About 20-30 minutes

     

    #3:  Church of Sant’Ignazio With Kids

    The Church of Sant’Ignazio is a Catholic church constructed in a classic Baroque style.  The most memorable feature of the Church of Sant’Ignazio was the false dome roof.  Plans for this church, which was completed in the 17th century, included a domed roof, but there were not enough funds to support the construction of a dome.  So, Jesuit artist Andrea Pozzo was hired to paint the roof to make it appear to be a dome.  The optical illusion is quite realistic.

    • Church of Sant’Ignazio Facts for Kids:  The original dome painting was destroyed in 1871 and was replaced with the current replica.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Church of Sant’Ignazio With Kids:  About 20 minutes

     

    #4:  Trevi Fountain With Kids

    The Trevi Fountain is a mammoth Baroque fountain that features statues designed by Nicola Salvi.   The fountain, which was constructed between 1732 and 1762 is 85 feet long and 65 feet high and is one of the world’s largest fountains.  Its construction celebrated the reopening of ancient aqueducts.  Trevi Fountain means “three street fountain” because of the three roads that converge at the Fountain.

    Our Airbnb was located only a short walk from the Trevi Fountain, and we were able to pass by many times during our five days in Rome.  We were always amazed at the sheer number of people all trying to capture the perfect shot of the Fountain.  We could tell we were getting close by the dull roar of the crowd and water streaming from the 24 spouts.

    The enormous fountain features 24 spouts, and the sound of the water cannot be mistaken.  While there is no fee to view the Trevi Fountain, romantic visitors love to throw coins over their shoulder into this fountain, hoping the gesture will secure a return trip to Rome.  Coins valuing approximately €3,500 are collected daily from the Fountain and donated to local Catholic charity, Caritas Rome.  The current Mayor of Rome recently withdrew a proposal to redirect the money collected from the Trevi Fountain for the city’s infrastructure.

    • Trevi Fountain Facts for Kids:  The central statue of the Trevi Fountain is Oceanus, who is commonly misidentified as Neptune.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Trevi Fountain With Kids:  We passed by the Trevi Fountain at least a half-dozen times while in Rome.  The first time, we spent about 10 minutes in the crowds.  The other times, we generally stopped only for a moment or two.

     

    #5:  Spanish Steps With Kids

    The Spanish Steps are a wide, curving, Baroque staircase, consisting of 138 steps in three tiers, that lead from the Piazza di Spagna to the Trinità dei Monti church.  These stairs were built between 1723 and 1725.  Another obelisk is framed between two Baroque church towers.

    At the bottom of the Stairs is the Sinking Boat Fountain, which is an aqueduct-powered fountain that was designed by either Gian Lorenzo Bernini or his father, Peitro, in 16th century.  The fountain is powered by the Acqua Vergine aqueduct, and doesn’t shoot up into the air because the water pressure is low here.

    We passed by the Spanish Steps several times during our time in Rome.  The amazing panoramic view from the top includes the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica and is brilliant at sunset.  It is also a particularly lively place at night, even in the rain.

    For tourists looking for designer boutiques, the area surrounding Piazza di Spagna provides prime shopping opportunities.

    • Spanish Steps Facts for Kids:  English Poet John Keats lived and died in the house to the right of the Steps.  His home is now the Keats–Shelley Memorial House museum.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Spanish Steps With Kids:  Our visits to the Spanish Steps varied from a few minutes to an hour.

     

    #6:  Piazza Navona With Kids

    Piazza Navona has served as a center of Roman life since the ancient times.  Piazza Navona was the location of Circus Agonalis, a sports venue built by Emperor Domitian that could hold 30,000 spectators about 2,000 years ago.  Circus Agonalis opened about the same time as the Colosseum when Rome was at its peak.  No trace of the stadium structure still exists, but the oblong shape of the square is the footprint of the arena’s competition space.

    Piazza Navona features three Baroque fountains.  Fountains depicting a Moor wrestling a dolphin and Neptune slaying an octopus are located at either end of the Piazza.  In the center is Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s Four Rivers Fountain, which features an Egyptian-style obelisk that was actually made in Rome.  The four statues that make up this 17th century fountain represent the four quarters of the world.

    Outdoor cafes line the Piazza, and we enjoyed lunch across from the Four Rivers Fountain and then made sure to pick up some gelato before continuing on our way.

    • Piazza Navona Facts for Kids:  Piazza Navona is featured in Angels & Demons, Catch-22, Coins in the Fountain and National Lampoon’s European Vacation. 
    • Time Spent Visiting the Piazza Navona With Kids:  About 90 minutes, including lunch.

     

    Free Things To Do in Vatican City

     

    #7:  Saint Peter’s Basilica With Kids

    St. Peter’s Basilica, the world’s largest church and the site of St. Peter’s tomb, is free to enter.  While most visitors arrive from the secret Sistine Chapel entrance, it is also possible to enter directly from St. Peter’s Square.  However, the security line is often lengthy.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the decoration of the interior was finished.

    We were overwhelmed by the immense size of St. Peter’s Basilica.  Michelangelo’s sculpture, Pieta, which is displayed at St. Peter’s, is a representation of Mary holding Jesus’ body that shows his skills as a master sculptor.  It is unbelievable to me that Michelangelo completed Pieta, his first major commission, at the young age of 24.  Michelangelo is not only considered one of the world’s best sculptors and painters 500 years after his death, but he also designed St. Peter’s dome, which rises 448 feet (longer than the length of a football field).  Michelangelo was named lead architect in 1546 and studied the domes of the Pantheon and Florence‘s Duomo before designing his plans.  The Basilica’s main altar is made of a marble slab and surrounded by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s impressive seven-story bronze canopy and is located below the dome.

    See my full review of St. Peter’s Basilica.

    • St. Peter’s Basilica Facts for Kids:  In the 4th century, Emperor Constantine built the original church on the site where St. Peter was martyred, but by the 16th century, the Old St. Peter’s church was falling apart.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the interior decorating was finished.
    • Time Spent Visiting the St. Peter’s Basilica With Kids:  45-60 minutes (not including security lines)

     

    #8:  St. Peter’s Square With Kids

    St. Peter’s Square is one of the world’s most famous squares.  It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and includes 284 Doric columns, each 56 feet tall and topped with sculptures of 140 saints.  The square is an elliptical shape to symbolize the arms of the Church welcoming all people.  In the center stands an Egyptian obelisk, which is over 4,000 years old and 90 feet tall.  Emperor Caligula brought the Vatican Obelisk to Rome in the first century.  It is made of granite and weighs about 300 tons and is unusual in that it does not have any hieroglyphs.

    See my full review of St. Peter’s Square.

    • St. Peter’s Basilica Facts for Kids:  The Vatican Obelisk is the only Roman obelisk that has not toppled since ancient times.  It was placed in its current site in 1586.  Bernini added the Chigi arms on the top and made it the centerpiece of the Square.
    • Time Spent Visiting the St. Peter’s Square With Kids:  30-45 Minutes.

     

    Free Activities in Rome – Colosseum Neighborhood

     

    #9:  Colosseum With Kids

    While there is an admission fee for adults to go inside the Colosseum, there are many amazing free viewpoints to see its famous exterior, and there is no admission charge for kids under 18.  I was in awe the moment I emerged from the Colosseo metro stop.  Visitors can walk around the periphery of the Colosseum and count the 80 arches without paying a dime.

    Find out more about Colosseum tickets.

    • Colosseum Facts for Kids:  The Colosseum was constructed in eight years and had capacity for 50,000 spectators.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Colosseum With Kids:  Our visit lasted about 2-2.5 hours, including our guided tour.

     

    #10:  Roman Forum With Kids

    Our visit to the Roman Forum let us step back in time and get a glimpse of the cultural, governmental and spiritual center of ancient Rome.  Although there is an admission charge for adults to enter the Roman Forum grounds, this ticket is a combination ticket with the Colosseum, and children under 18 are free.  Additionally, the views from the periphery are comparable to those within.  On our last day, we walked around the Roman Forum and took this picture without entering the grounds.

    Even from the ruins, we could see how detailed these ancient structures really were.  Our visit to this area provided an amazing hands-on history lesson, and we recommend a stop at the Roman Forum for any family visiting Rome.

    Check out my full review of the Roman Forum.

    • Roman Forum for Kids:  Arch of Titus, which dates back over 2,000 years and provided inspiration for the much larger Arch de Triomphe.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Forum With Kids:  About 45 minutes inside the Forum, and we walked around the periphery on our last day in Rome.

     

    #11:  Palatine Hill With Kids

    The Palace of Domitian dominates Palatine Hill (which is also the origin of the word “palace”).  There is a fee for adults to enter the grounds of Palatine Hill (combined with the Roman Forum and Colosseum entrance), but children under 18 are free.  It is also possible to view the Palatine Hill ruins by walking around the periphery of Palatine Hill and not entering the grounds themselves.  While we were able to tour the grounds, we came back to the area on the last day and followed the periphery for a different point of view.

    The Palatine Hill buildings are largely in ruins and not as exciting as the Palace of Versailles or Doge’s Palace, both of which we had visited earlier in our trip.  But this area is where Romulus and many other wealthy Romans chose to build their estates due to the proximity to the Roman Forum.

    Check out my full review of Palatine Hill.

    • Palatine Hill Facts for Kids:  Palatine Hill is the center of the Seven Hills of Rome and sits about 130 feet above the Forum.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Palatine Hill With Kids:  About 45 minutes.

     

    #13:  Arch of Titus With Kids

    The Arch of Titus, which was constructed about 82 AD, appears to be largely intact over 2035 years later; however, parts have been reconstructed.  For example, the fluted columns are original, but smooth portions are reconstructions.  The 50 foot Arch was originally much more colorful, but the colored marble was unfortunately scavenged over the years.

    • Arch of Titus Facts for Kids:   The Arch of Titus was the inspiration for the much larger Arc de Triomphe in Paris.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Arch of Titus With Kids:  Just a few minutes.

     

    #14:  Arch of Constantine With Kids

    The Arch of Constantine is a triumphal arch located between the Colosseum and Palatine Hill that was completed in 315 to commemorate Constantine I’s victory at the Battle of the Milvian Bridge in 312.  The Arch consists of a large central arch and two smaller arches on each side.

    • Arch of Constantine Facts for Kids:   The Arch of Constantine is Rome’s tallest triumphal arch.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Arch of Constantine With Kids:  Just a few minutes.

     

    #15:  Victor Emmanuel II Monument With Kids

    The Victor Emmanuel II Monument is dedicated to Italy’s first king, Victor Emmanuel II.  This mammoth, white marble structure is 200 feet high and 500 feet wide, and dwarfs the Trevi Fountain.  The monument is a neoclassical interpretation of the Roman Forum that was constructed between 1895 and 1911. At the center is a 43 foot high statue of the King on his horse.  The monument has received criticism for being too ostentatious and pompous, but even for tourists who think it is over the top, the panoramic view it offers is pretty amazing.

    • Victor Emmanuel Monument Facts for Kids:  The Monument holds the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, a casualty of World War II.  The tomb is located under the statue of the goddess, Roma.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Victor Emmanuel Monument With Kids:  We stopped twice, with each visit lasting only a few minutes.

     

    #16:  Mouth of Truth With Kids (“Bocca Della Verita”)

    The Mouth of Truth is a large marble mask that has hung in the Atrium of Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin since 1632.  According to its legend, the mask is the ultimate lie detector.  The mask has a small mouth opening that is supposed to bite the hand of anyone who is not truthful.  Tourists line up to get their turn sticking their hands into the mouth.  Luckily, tourists are a truthful lot, and we didn’t witness any hand injuries during our half hour wait for our turn.

    • Mouth of Truth Facts:  The Mouth of Truth received world-wide attention after it was featured in Audrey Hepburn’s 1953 Roman Holiday.
    • Time Spent at the Mouth of Truth:  We waited for about 30 minutes for our 30 seconds with the mask.

     

    Things to Do in Rome for Free – Via Veneto Neighborhood

     

    #17:  Villa Borghese Gardens With Kids

    The Villa Borghese Gardens are Rome’s “Central Park” designed in the English landscape style.  We picked up sandwiches for a picnic lunch at Borghese Gardens on our last afternoon in Rome.  It was a bit of a hike to reach the Gardens from our Airbnb near the Barberini Metro.  We entered through the old Roman wall at the Via Veneto entrance but later saw that there was a second entrance at the top of the Spanish Steps that may have been more convenient.

    It was the end of our second week of travel, and we thought a bit of relaxation in a park was exactly what we needed.  We were relieved to find park benches in the shade lined up along one of the roads that ran through the Gardens.  We sat down and were thoroughly entertained by all the visitors who rented bikes, multi-rider pedaled rickshaws single or motorized scooters to explore the Gardens. After we had our fill of lunch and people watching, the kids stretched their legs running around in circles for a bit before we headed out.

    • Borghese Gardens Facts for Kids:  Villa Borghese Gardens were commissioned in 1605 by Cardinal Scipione Borghese on the site of a former vineyard.  Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and wanted to create the largest gardens since Roman antiquity.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Borghese Gardens With Kids:  About 1.5-2 hours.

     

    Free Things to See in Rome – Generally

     

    #18:  Obelisks in Rome

    The fact that Rome has more obelisks than any other city in the world was not something I expected.  Obelisks were popular among the Roman Emperors because Egyptians treated their rulers as divine.  There are eight ancient Egyptian obelisks and five ancient Roman obelisks, and we saw most of them.  Romans constructed enormous ships in order to transport the obelisks from Alexandria in Egypt across the Mediterranean Sea to Rome.

    The Elephant and Obelisk

     

    • Roman Obelisks for Kids:  Most ancient Egyptian obelisks have hieroglyphs while the Roman obelisks do not.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Obelisks With Kids:  A few minutes at each one.

     

    #19:  Drinking Fountains in Rome 

    There are over 2,500 free, public drinking fountains available all around Rome.  The water is very safe to drink and ice cold, which we really appreciated during the hot July days of our visit.  The pipe system used to transport the water from the mountains above Rome to the fountains are the original aqueducts constructed centuries ago.  We carried our own water bottles to refill throughout the day and also used the water in the fountains to cool off on particularly hot days.

    • Roman Water Fountain Facts for Kids:  The letters SQPR, which commonly appear on water fountains and in stone and marble throughout the city stand for “Senatus Populus Que Romanus” which roughly represents the ancient Roman government.
    • Time Spent Visiting the Roman Water Fountains With Kids:  We visited public water fountains many times each day and rarely had to wait for more than 1-2 minutes for our turn.

     

    #20:  Metro With Kids (free for kids under 10)

    Kids under 10 ride the Metro in Rome for free when traveling with an adult.  This made Metro rides extremely affordable for our family.  Although we found Rome very walkable, the Metro was convenient when we needed to travel farther distances quickly.

    Rome Metro Facts for Kids:  Rome Metro’s driverless Line C is currently under construction to connect the city’s eastern quadrant with its northwest quadrant, and the construction zone was particularly noticeable near the Colosseum.

    • Time Spent Riding the Rome Metro:  During our five days in Rome, we took six rides on the Metro.  Each ride was approximately 10-15 minutes.

     

    Free Things for Kids to Do in Rome

    We were surprised that there were so many free things to do in Rome.  Planning a family trip to Italy, be sure to check out our other blog posts about Florence, San Gimignano and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Renting a Car in Italy

    Renting a Car in Italy

    Families planning a trip to Italy often wonder if they should use trains or rental cars to travel between cities.  We are definitely big fans of train travel in Europe and definitely prefer to travel by train between large metropolitan areas due to the convenience and cost.  However, there are situations where train travel in Italy is impractical.  During our July 2018 Italian family vacation, the Lamborghini Museum and Ferrari Museum were high on our must-see list.  Both museums are in the Modena area and very challenging to reach by train. The cost of long taxi rides to and from the Bologna train station and in between the two museums was pretty staggering, and with a family of five, we would need to hire two taxis.  Additionally, we were skeptical that we would be able to store our luggage at the Bologna train station for this excursion.  We decided that by renting a car in Italy for a day and a half, we could visit the Italian car museums with flexibility, spend a night in Pisa and then visit a few Tuscan towns before returning the car upon our arrival in Florence.

    View of San Gimignano from the outskirts
    View of San Gimignano from the outskirts

    Booking an Italian Rental Car

    Manual transmission vehicles are significantly less expensive to rent in Italy, but we chose to stick with an automatic transmission and reserved our intermediate, five passenger car through Alamo/Enterprise.  The daily charge for the rental was €43.47, but with taxes and the rental of a car seat for our daughter (€45), the grand total for our two day rental came to €245.39.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Requirements

    An international driving permit is required to rent a car in Italy.  My husband obtained his permit from AAA before our departure, and the process was relatively painless and cost only $20 and required two passport sized photos.  He was actually never asked for his driving permit in Italy, but we did not feel it was worth the risk to not get it in advance.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Car Seats

    One of the trickiest parts of renting cars is figuring out how to handle car seats.  We chose to rent a car seat for our three year old daughter because she was less than 30 pounds and needed a convertible car seat.  We were traveling very light and definitely did not want to lug around a heavy car seat throughout our 18-day European vacation when we only needed it for a day and a half.  We considered purchasing the Ridesafer Travel Vest, but she had not yet reached the lower weight limit for use in the US, we were concerned that the vest would not be permitted in Italy.  While the €45 rental fee seemed pretty exorbitant, we thought it was the best option, and the seat we received seemed satisfactory.  We also carried two Bubble Bum booster seats with us to use for our eight and ten year old boys.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Insurance

    Worldwide car rental insurance up to $50,000 is a perk of our Costco Citi card for any car rental 31 days or less that is paid for with the card.  This coverage means we can decline the additional collision loss/damage insurance that is always offered through the rental company.  Because our rental included a car body package to limit liability to €1,800 in case of damage or theft at no extra fee, we verified with Costco that this included insurance would not negate our coverage in advance and did not have to pay extra for full rental car insurance.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Pick Up

    We were departing from Venice the day that we planned to pick up our car.  However, picking up a rental car in a car-free city seemed unnecessarily complicated.  We chose instead to take a train from Venice to Bologna and pick up our car there.

    Picking up a rental car always seems to take longer than we expect, and our experience in Italy was no exception.  It’s important to research the exact location of the rental car company as the descriptions online might not be reliable.  “Train station” could mean near the train station, and “downtown” might near downtown.  We thought that the Enterprise/Alamo desk was at the Bologna train station, but it was actually about a block away, and finding it was a bit of a challenge.  After completing the registration with the clerk, we were directed to a garage several blocks away.  We were offered a six passenger vehicle that was larger than we expected but manageable.  As always, we made sure to thoroughly inspect the exterior of the car for any damage and make sure any dents were properly noted before leaving the garage.  We then had to figure out how to install the car seats before setting off.  Our grand plan included a lunch in Bologna, but we knew our time was tight, so we headed out of the city without seeing even the Towers of Bologna.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Logistics

    After spending 10 days driving the Ring Road in Iceland in June 2017, renting a car for a day and a half Italy seemed like it should be no big deal.  However, it was significantly more challenging than our experience in Iceland.  We used our GPS with international maps in both countries but found that we were constantly being directed into restricted zones (zona traffico limitato or ZLT) in Italy.  Traffic, which is nonexistent in Iceland, was often heavy in Italy.  Road rules were also confusing, speed limits were often hard to determine, and Italian drivers are particularly aggressive.  As a result, I was really nervous that we would end up with a huge fine to pay at the end of the trip and generally nervous the entire time we were in the car.  Dropping the car off in Florence was particularly a nightmare as we had to do several U-turns before determining that the rental car return was located within a limited traffic zone; however, it was a huge relief to drop it off.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Benefits

    By renting a car in Italy, we were able to visit the Lamborghini Museum and Ferrari Museum, Pisa and San Gimignano in a day in a half, all without worrying about luggage storage.  The Lamborghini Museum, Ferrari Museum and San Gimignano are not easily reachable by train and were particularly enjoyable parts or our trip.  We would have been able to visit other Tuscan towns between Pisa and Florence as we had originally planned if we hadn’t decided that we needed to climb the Leaning Tower of Pisa and tour the Pisa Cathedral.  If we were traveling by train, we would have likely booked a mid-morning train journey and would have regretted not having enough time at the Field of Miracles.  So, we did enjoy the flexibility to easily alter our plans.

    Pisa Cathedral and the Leaning Tower of Pisa
    Pisa Cathedral and the Leaning Tower of Pisa

    Our Italian car rental also allowed us to have the most authentic, non-touristy experience in Italy, lunch at Glamour Caffe e Cucina near the Lamborghini Museum.  After skipping lunch in Bologna, stopping for a meal before touring Italian car museums was non-negotiable, and we happened upon the Glamour Caffe.  We were definitely the only tourists, and none of the servers spoke English.  Our order for fixed price lunches was complicated, and we were not clear on how much the meal would cost.  However, the food and authenticity of the meal was top-notch, and the price ended up being quite the bargain as well.  Because our trip focused on large metropolitan areas, this was really our only opportunity to get off the beaten path and a huge benefit to renting a car.

    Renting a Car in Italy – Recommendation

    We recommend traveling by train in Italy unless there is something on your must-do list that is completely impractical to do via public transportation.  However, it is possible for adventurous families to rent a car in Italy and truly explore the countryside.

    The Lamborghini Museum and the Ferrari Museum each hosted our family’s visits.  As always, all opinions are my own. 

  • Visiting the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    Visiting the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    A visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill is a great way to step back in time and take a glimpse of ancient Rome.  The Forum is a rectangular plaza in the valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills. The only remaining structures, which were constructed between 500 BC and AD 400, are all in ruins, but enough remains to really spark our imagination of what the governmental, cultural and civic center of Rome looked like thousands of years ago.  The Roman Forum and Palatine Hill have separate entrances, but the two sights are interconnected.  So, it’s possible to start at one and end in the other.  For our family of five (including kids ages 3, 8 and 10), our visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill was a complete history lesson, and we are glad we didn’t overlook these amazing sights during our visit to Rome.

     

    Visiting Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum

     

    Directions to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    The Colosseum is conveniently located near the Colosseum Metro station.  We were staying near the Barberini station on the red A line and had to travel to Termini, the train station, and transfer to the blue B line and then travel two stops to reach the Colosseum.  The entire journey was probably about 15 minutes, and we had a short walk to the Colosseum area once we left the station.

     

    Palatine Hill and Roman Forum Tickets

    We pre-booked a combination ticket to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum/Palatine Hill through Coop Culture.  The combined ticket cost €17 for each adult, and children under 18 are free.  Like the Louvre, which also cost our family €34 to visit, I found it pretty astounding how inexpensive admission was for these iconic sights.  In contrast, most museums in the US cost at least $75 for admission for our family.

    Our tickets permitted a single entry into each attraction on the same day or on two consecutive days.  Our priority was the Colosseum, and we weren’t sure how long our visit would take, so we headed there first.  We were inundated with tour guides offering us skip the line entry as soon as we arrived and were happy to have already sorted out tickets and not need to risk giving money to a con artist.  We needed to stand in line to exchange our pre-booked vouchers for actual tickets from a small booth outside the Colosseum.

    We loathe lines in general, but this one luckily took only about 15-20 minutes.  Even though it was mid-morning, the sun was already pretty hot.  So, we purchased water bottles for our entire family during the wait.  I discovered in the line that the fine print on our voucher allowed entry to the Colosseum only after 2 p.m. during the summer months.  But, we also found that we could book a 45 minute guided tour in English that cost €5 for adults (again, children were free).  We went ahead and planned a 2:30 p.m. entry and a 3:00 p.m. tour and then headed to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill.

     

    Entering the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    A funny thing really did happen on the way to the Forum….  After we collected our Colosseum tickets, we asked the ticket agent for directions to the Roman Forum entrance.  She took one look at our stroller and suggested that we pass the Forum entrance and use the Palatine Hill entrance instead.  We had read that the Forum entrance often has a long line, so we thought we were getting valuable intel.  It turned out to be the worst stroller advice we have ever received.

    We got through the Palatine Hill entrance quickly but found the uphill pebble pathway nearly impossible with a stroller.  Palatine Hill is the center of the Seven Hills of Rome and sits about 130 feet above the Forum but really seemed like a trek. Our daughter reluctantly climbed out when it became obvious that we wouldn’t be able to push the stroller with her weight on the uneven surface, but it was hot, and the hard to find ruins were not exciting enough to captivate her attention and make her want to walk.

    The boys had watched Ben-Hur before our trip, and we were excited to see Circus Maximus, the site of the chariot races.   From Palatine Hill, we were able to see a panoramic view of the field where the stadium was located.  We actually had a better view of the site a few days later when we were walking to the Mouth of Truth.

    View of Circus Maximus from Via del Circo Massimo

    The Palace of Domitian dominates Palatine Hill (which is also the origin of the word “palace”).  But, it is largely in ruins and not as exciting as the Palace of Versailles or Doge’s Palace, both of which we had visited earlier in our trip.

    Checking out the courtyard of the Palace of Domitian
    Checking out the courtyard of the Palace of Domitian

    As usual, we used Rick Steves as a guide, and I narrated our visit by reading the short blurbs in Rick Steves Italy. Although Steves’ nuggets of information were interesting, I have to admit that we were underwhelmed with Palatine Hill.  Walking up the Hill was particularly brutal and really not overly exciting.

     

    A Visit to the Roman Forum

    We may not have been wowed by Palatine Hill, but the Roman Forum was pretty spectacular.  It is an impressive archeological site.  The population of ancient Rome reached a whopping 1 million, most of whom lived in tiny apartments or tents but spent their time in the Forum.  While none of the ancient buildings are intact, there is enough remaining to provide an image of what it looked like.  My son bought the book, Rome Reconstructed, at one of the gift shops that included amazing side by side comparisons of buildings then and now, and really helped the kids understand what ancient Rome was like.

    Although there were stairs here and there, the stroller was actually generally easier to maneuver in the Forum due to some paved walkways.  We weren’t fighting gravity on our descent, but there were some areas where cobble stones made it absolutely necessary for our daughter to jump out and walk a bit.

    Large stones in the Forum that were not stroller friendly
    Large stones in the Forum that were not stroller friendly

     

    Roman Forum Buildings

    My favorite building in the Roman Forum is the Arch of Titus.  The Arch, which was constructed about 82 AD, appears to be largely intact over 2035 years later; however, parts have been reconstructed.  For example, the fluted columns are original, but smooth portions are reconstructions.  The Arch was originally much more colorful, but the colored marble was unfortunately scavenged over the years.

    It didn’t surprise me that this 50 foot arch was the inspiration for the much larger Arc de Triomphe in Paris because I immediately saw the resemblance.

    Arch de Triomphe
    Arch de Triomphe

    I was also wowed by the three columns standing from the Temple of Castor and Pollux, which date back to 484 BC.  The columns were constructed in the first century AD.

    Three remaining pillars of Temple of Castor and Pollux
    Three remaining pillars of the Temple of Castor and Pollux

    The Temple of Saturn dates back to about 490 BC and is the oldest sacred monument in Rome.  Its enormous eight columns framed the Forum’s oldest temple and continue to stand out in the Forum landscape.

    The eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn are pictured on the far left
    The eight remaining pillars of the Temple of Saturn are pictured on the far left

     

    Alternate Views of the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    On our last day in Rome, we followed the periphery of Palatine Hill and the Forum when walking from the Mouth of Truth to the Colosseum Metro stop, and I enjoyed the panoramic views of the Hill almost as much as our walkabout inside earlier in our trip.  We did not see the Forum illuminated at night, but I’ve heard that is a pretty spectacular sight.  If admission to the Forum is combined with Colosseum tickets, it is definitely worthwhile to make a quick visit.  However, for families pressed for time, the Colosseum is definitely the more impressive site.  Just make sure to take a walk around the periphery to appreciate the glory of ancient Rome.

    View of Palatine Hill from Via del Circo Massimo
    View of Palatine Hill from Via del Circo Massimo

     

    Best Way to Visit the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill

    If we were to do it again, I would definitely plan for no more than an hour visit to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, enter at the Forum (even if the line was longer), focus on the Roman Forum and possibly just poke around the top of Palatine Hill before heading out.

    To find out more about family travel to Italy, check out our other blog posts about Rome, Florence and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.

  • Review of Thello Night Train from Paris to Venice With Kids

    Review of Thello Night Train from Paris to Venice With Kids

    Our family had a lovely journey on the Thello night train from Paris to Venice.  My husband and I had each taken overnight trains as young backpackers in our 20s, and we were hesitant at first to travel on an overnight train as a family with kids ages 4, 8 and 10.  But, we considered this travel option when researching how to get from Paris to Venice.  We discovered a number of complications with the budget flights from Paris to Venice.  Arriving in Venice at night is challenging because Airbnb hosts charge hefty late check in fees, and late arrivals also require an expensive water taxi ride into Venice.  At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, the cost of Thello tickets was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cabin looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.  The Thello night train also allowed us to travel from the city center of Paris to the city center of Venice without losing much valuable sightseeing time.  The Thello sleeper train turned out to be a fun and convenient way to travel from Paris to Venice with kids.

    A Trip on the Thello Night Train

     

    Thello Train Booking

    We booked our Thello tickets directly through Thello’s website.  We printed our confirmation and brought it with us.  We chose the smart fare, which is non-refundable and available as low as €29 per person.

     

    Thello Train’s Gare de Lyon Departure 

    In order to prepare for our Thello night train’s departure at 7:10 p.m. from Paris’ Gare de Lyon, we condensed our family’s luggage into our large suitcase and one backpack before checking out of our Airbnb.  We knew that it would be totally impractical to lug around our suitcase and backpack as we explored the Champs-Élysées, the Place de la Concorde and the Musée de l’Orangerie and knew luggage storage was essential.  We did some research about area luggage storage and decided that it made the most sense to store our luggage at Gare de Lyon rather than near our Airbnb and have to return to the area before continuing on to the train station.  We took the Metro to Gare de Lyon, and I waited with the kids inside the Metro station while my husband exited into the train station with the suitcase and backpack to the luggage storage facility we found online.  After he safely stored the bags in a locker, he used another billet to get back into the station to meet us and continue on to the Arc de Triomphe.

    Luggage Storage at the Gare de Lyon

    We had an unforgettable, luggage-free day of sightseeing that included McDonald’s ice cream and Monet’s Waterlilies galleries, the two best rooms of art my sons have ever seen and not a roller suitcase.  We returned to Gare de Lyon about an hour before our departure, picked up our luggage, purchased dinner and waited in the beautiful, bustling station, which was built for the 1900 World’s Fair.

    Waiting for our Thello Night Train at the Gare de Lyon

    We boarded our train upon its arrival on the platform.  Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cabin.  So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper cabin at €35 per seat to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family of five.  The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost!  Similar smart fares are available for this route starting at €29 for adults and €20.30 for children ages 4-14.  Considering the low cost, it was not surprising that our cabin was located in pretty far down the platform in coach 86, but we didn’t mind the walk.

    Thello night train

     

    Thello Night Train Ride With Kids

    When we reached coach 86, we located our sleeper cabin and were pleasantly surprised to find that it very closely resembled the pictures we had seen online.  We specifically chose a cabin in the middle of coach 86 so that we would not be right next to the bathroom and really were not disturbed by other passengers at anytime in the journey.  There were three seats on each side, and the highest bunks were set up with six sets of bedding.  There was luggage storage available over the door and under the seats and six water bottles in specifically designed holders in the wall.  Had we known that water bottles were provided, we would not have stocked up on beverages in the train station.

    We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun family sleepover experience, and they definitely did.  The three level bunk beds were a particular hit, and the Thello couchettes were more comfortable than we expected.  As the train journey got underway, we ate our dinner and had a relaxed evening in our sleeper cabin.  We enjoyed watching the French countryside that we passed by until the last bit of sunlight bid farewell for the day.  Our boys chose the top bunks, and our daughter quickly mastered climbing the ladder up and down to “visit”.  We explored a bit but mostly stayed in our seats.

    Thello train corridor

    When the conductor came by to check our tickets, she also took our passports.  Many train passengers worry about this, but we knew from our previous night trains it was common practice to expedite passport control when crossing borders.  There was no WiFi, so we read about Venice in our guidebook and all slept for at least nine hours of the journey.  We were able to keep all our luggage with us and lock our compartment from the inside.  We felt very safe traveling with kids.  Although we would have enjoyed seeing the Swiss countryside, it was dark for our entire journey through Switzerland.  Our kids will have to wait for another trip to be dazzled by the Alps.

    We somehow managed to sleep right through the alarm I set and woke up when the conductor knocked to return our passports as promised after Milan.  It was not long before our scheduled 9:35 a.m. arrival in Venice, and we were a bit frantic to get packed up until we discovered that the train was running late.  Breakfast bags with pastries and more water bottles were delivered as an unexpected surprise before our arrival in Venice at about 11:00 a.m.

    Checking out the view on the Thello night train

     

    Our Thello Night Train Review

    Taking the Paris to Venice train was a fun and convenient way to travel, and we saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from airports in Paris and Venice and late Airbnb check in fees.  One main negative was that we did not have a private bath or the ability to shower.  Two and three person premium sleeper cabins with private bathrooms are available on Thello night trains, but my husband and I were uncomfortable splitting our family into two rooms.  The only other negative was that the train arrived in Venice about 90 minutes late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in, but that luckily worked out seamlessly.  While we flew from Rome to Paris at the end of our time in Italy, it took seven and a half hours door to door, which meant that we lost almost an entire day of sightseeing en route.  We will definitely consider a night train as a travel option in the future and would recommend considering the Thello night train with kids.

     

    Find Out More About Visiting Paris or Venice With Kids

    Considering a family trip to Paris or Venice?  Check out our posts on planning visits to Paris with kids and Venice with kids.

  • Things to Do in Venice With Kids

    Things to Do in Venice With Kids

    A visit to Venice was an essential part of our family’s itinerary for our summer vacation in France and Italy.  My husband and I had each visited Italy previously, but neither of us had been to Venice and were intrigued by the City of Canals.  Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, Venice lived up to our expectations and more.  Our gondola ride was definitely the highlight, but St. Mark’s Basilica, the Rialto Bridge, Doge’s Palace, shopping and exploring the narrow pedestrian streets were all unforgettable.  Visiting a pedestrian-only city requires some special planning considerations, but there are so many things to do in Venice with kids.

    Chasing Pigeons in St. Mark's Square
    Chasing Pigeons in St. Mark’s Square

     

    Planning a Family Trip to Venice

     

    Traveling to and from Venice, Italy With Kids

    We booked our trip to Europe a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues.  We had discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on WOW air to Paris.  However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.

    After securing our flights to Paris, we wanted to finalize our transportation to Italy.  Before we booked our planned evening flight from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to expensive water taxis.  Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and we wondered if we would be able to check in if our flight was delayed.  On a whim, we looked into overnight train options.   Almost immediately, we found Thello’s night train from Paris to Venice that fit our needs perfectly.  The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit and avoid travel time to and from airports.  At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.

    Thello night train

    Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars.  So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family.  The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost!  I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and late Airbnb check in fees.

    Thello nigh train sleeper car

    We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun family sleepover experience, and they definitely did.  The three level bunk beds were a particular hit.  We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a relaxed evening in our sleeper car.  Our boys chose the top bunks, and our daughter quickly mastered climbing the ladder up and down.  We all slept for about nine hours of the journey.  The main negatives were that we couldn’t shower and the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in.  Otherwise, taking an overnight train from Paris to Venice was a fun and convenient way to travel.  While we flew from Rome to Paris at the end of our time in Italy, it took seven and a half hours door to door, which meant that we lost almost an entire day of sightseeing en route.  We’ll definitely consider a night train in the future.

    We departed Venice by taking a Trenitalia train from Venice to Bologna.  We planned to rent a car to explore Northern Italy, but found renting a car from Venice challenging because the island is pedestrian only.  It seemed easier to take a train to Bologna rather than travel to Venice’s Marco Polo Airport to pick up our car.

    Trenitalia train on platform

     

    Accommodations in Venice 

    Although we booked our 2 days in Venice only a few weeks in advance, we found an amazing Airbnb in Venice.  We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge.  This authentic, air-conditioned Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine.  The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.

    The master suite featured its own attached bathroom with a unique arched doorway.

    La corte di San Marco Airbnb master bedroom

    The kids slept on a pull out couch and single bed located in the apartment’s large living area.  This room featured exposed ceiling beams, a kitchenette and dining table.  We did not eat any meals in the apartment, but it was well-equipped with all the necessities and even offered children’s silverware.

     La corte di San Marco main living room  La corte di San Marco kitchenette

    The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio connected to the master bedroom, the main living space and the laundry room.

     La corte di San Marco outdoor patio

    Jenny asked that we place a barrier in the door frame of the apartment’s front door every time we left the apartment due to possible flood waters.  With the recent severe flooding in Venice, the danger is clear, and we hope that La corte di San Marco did not sustain any damage. We would definitely recommend La corte di San Marco for families visiting Venice and would not hesitate to book this Airbnb again ourselves.

     

    Local Transportation in Venice

    We found most of Venice very walkable but did need public transportation to get to our Airbnb.  With no roads in Venice, buses or taxis are not an option.  The public transit system consists of water buses, which are known as vaprettos.   One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas.  We are experienced mass transit riders, but found the vapretto system somewhat confusing.  After purchasing tickets from the kiosk, riders need to validate at the electronic ticket reader before boarding.  Typically, no one checks tickets on the vapretto itself, but a rider without a validated ticket could be subject to a hefty fine.

    Lines 1 and 2 follow the Grand Canal, and Line 1 makes 14 stops between Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s Square while Line 2 is the express option that makes only 5 stops.  Lines 4 and 5 circumnavigate the main island.  Upon arrival, we purchased tickets and were directed to Line 4 because it is the shortest journey from Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s.   However, we had to wait quite some time for a Line 4 vapretto to arrive and didn’t have the most scenic route.  On the way back to the train station, we chose to take the slightly longer but much more aesthetically enjoyable route on Line 1 through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.

     

    Packing For a Trip to Venice 

    Our entire trip to Europe was 17 days and 17 nights.  Because we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines, we packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person.  It was definitely more than we really needed, but I always worry about washing machines not working and want to avoid visiting a laundromat on vacation at all costs.  Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two backpacks with us and also carried an extra bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, a stroller was a necessity.  While we did need to carry our small umbrella stroller up and down stairs at times, especially over Venice’s many bridges, we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.

    Ziplock organization

    My packing was efficient, but it was far from perfect.  I forgot a few easy to purchase items like soap and shampoo and found that our converter was not compatible with my flat iron.  I had read that cathedrals and churches in Italy require visitors have covered knees and shoulders, so we also each brought a few pairs of pants, and I decided not to bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the July heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  At Saint Mark’s, coverings were available for a small fee at the entrance to the church.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a scarf and left all the pants for me and the boys at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with  a maximum of four to five outfits each.

     

    Eating in Venice With Kids

    A major benefit of using our feet as the main mode of transportation in Venice was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner.  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited in Venice, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I enjoyed amazing daily seafood dishes, including of seafood risotto and salmon pasta.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water, so we always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.

    We had some fabulous meals during our two days in Venice and visited one restaurant that we would not recommend.

    Trattoria da Nino.  Following our arrival in Venice and some relaxation in our Airbnb, we headed out for our first Italian meal.  We settled on Trattoria da Nino and sat on the outside patio.  My husband ordered squid ink pasta, a Venetian specialty, and we had a lovely time watching people pass by on the narrow pedestrian street.

    Squid ink pasta
    Squid ink pasta

    Ristorante Agli Artisti. On the first night, we headed out to find a restaurant showing the France-Belgium Semi-Final FIFA World Cup match.   We stumbled upon Ristorante Agli Artisti, which had an available table with a perfectly situated television.  Service was impeccable, and the food was wonderful.  The eclectic decor included exposed wood beams, grape vines and grapes and other interesting objects affixed to the walls and ceilings, and I especially liked the Murano glass water tumblers.  We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and celebrated France’s win.

    Watching the France-Belgium semi final FIFA world cup match

    As soon as we paid the bill, my husband asked to reserve the same table for 8 pm the following night for the England-Croatia Semi-Final FIFA World Cup Match.  A family from New Zealand with a father who also grew up in England reserved the table next to ours for the same reason the following afternoon.  Their three young daughters were not at all interested in the game but excitedly invited our daughter to join them in watching Netflix on their iPad as soon as we finished eating.  World Cup soccer might not be a can’t miss activity on everyone’s European vacation, but my husband and sons are soccer fanatics, and that England-Croatia match was England’s first time in the World Cup Semi-Finals since 1990.   Unfortunately, the ending was a devastating loss.

    Watching the England-Croatia FIFA World Cup semi-final match

    Rio Venice di Chen Weili.  On our final afternoon in Venice, we ate lunch at Rio Venice di Chen Weili, which was unfortunately our least favorite meal in Italy.  Service was slow, the food was mediocre and we were charged a much higher service fee than anywhere else in Italy.  Had we had data to check reviews before we entered, we would have avoided this restaurant.  Note that we had been warned that many menus (including Rio Venice’s) feature seafood platters priced per 100 grams, which some tourists believe to be a fantastic bargain and order.  The surprise comes at the end when they discover they are charged 10 times the advertised price for a 1000 gram meal.

    We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of tasty gelato.  The most creative presentation were creative flower-shaped cones.  Check out this guide to the best gelato in Venice.

     

    Shopping With Kids in Venice

    We generally enjoy peeking into local souvenir shops while traveling but particularly enjoyed checking out all the gorgeous Murano glass in Venice, and our next visit to the city will definitely include a trip to the Murano, a Venetian island.  Ever since I purchased a stone turtle on Bavaro Beach in Punta Cana, I’ve looked for the most unique and traditional decorative turtles during our travels.  We probably visited every glass shop, looking for the perfect turtle, and of course, ultimately settled on the first one we saw.

    One shopkeeper gave us a mini-lesson on how Murano glass is made.  My daughter loved the glass and carefully looked at all the pieces while keeping her hands glued to her sides.  She chose one of the Christmas trees on her left from this shop.

    While the island typography clearly made transportation of goods more challenging in Venice, prices for shoes, clothes and souvenirs were not dramatically inflated.  I even found a pair of Geox sandals significantly reduced from what I would have paid in the US.

     

    Restrooms in Venice With Kids

    Restrooms are not as widely available in European cities as they are in the US.  Free restrooms for customers are often available in restaurants, hotels and museums, but public restrooms typically require a fee.  My three year old and I visited a public WC in Venice.  The €1.50 fee was only charged for me, continuing the glorious European trend that kids under six are never charged for admission.   The restroom fee may be an unnatural phenomenon, but the facilities were clean.

    Cell Service in Venice

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but used only WiFi service in Venice.  WiFi was available at all of the Venetian restaurants we visited, and we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi in the evenings.

     

    Currency in Venice

    We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

     

    Language Barrier in Venice

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where no one spoke English.  We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme.  It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.

     

    Pickpocketing Warning in Venice

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag (review), and diligently kept the clasps locked.  Our valuables were all safe during our visit to Venice, and we did not have any run ins with likely pickpocketers as we did in the Rome train station.  But, with three kids, I’m often distracted and felt much more secure with my belongings secured inside of anti-theft bag.

     

    Planning Our Italy Itinerary for Venice With Kids

    To help get our kids involved with planning our five nights in Italy, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know, which featured Venice’s Andrea Palladio’s Church of the Most Holy Redeemer.

    Church of the Most Holy Redeemer
    Church of the Most Holy Redeemer

    We prebooked our visits to St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace, but made errors in each.  We scheduled the 4:30 pm entry into St. Mark’s Basilica without realizing that the Basilica closed at 5:00, making our visit very rushed.  And, we mistakenly made reservations for a special exhibit at the Doge’s Palace opening in September instead of general admission entry.  These mistakes were unfortunate, but luckily our only booking missteps.

     

    Best Itinerary for Venice With Kids

    We spent two days in Venice at the beginning of 10 days in Italy and planned to take a slower pace, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore each city.  We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed.  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we saw many of Venice’s top sights during our 48 hour visit.  We didn’t have time to visit Venice’s other islands, including Burano or Torcello or the Lido beaches, but next time we hope to explore beyond the main island.

    Here is our basic daily itinerary:

    Day One – Venice

    • Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
    • Take vapretto to Airbnb
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Saint Mark’s Square
    • Rialto Bridge
    • Gondola ride
    • World Cup Game

    Day Two – Venice 

    • Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
    • Explore Venice streets
    • Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
    • Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
    • World Cup Game

    Day Three – Depart Venice 

    • Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
    • Train to Bologna

     

    Venice For Kids

    We highly recommend a trip to Venice for kids.  Make sure to check out our listing of blog posts on visiting Italy, including posts about Florence and Rome.

  • Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Best Things to Do Florence With Kids

    Looking for a destination in the heart of Tuscany?  We recommend a weekend trip to Florence.  This capital of Tuscany and birthplace of the Renaissance was my introduction to Italy as a college backpacker years ago, and I was so excited take my kids (ages 3, 8 and 10) on a holiday in Florence this past summer during a 10-day family tour of Italy.  We visited during a particular hot weekend halfway through our European summer vacation after visiting Paris, Venice, Pisa and San Gimignano.  While there are so many things to do in Florence, we uncharacteristically chose not to tour any museums, royal residences or historical buildings.  Instead, we spent our weekend in Florence roaming around and enjoying the unique architecture and atmosphere.  While tours of the Uffizi, Accademia Gallery and Pitti Palace are almost certain to be on our itinerary the next time we visit, there was no shortage of sights to see in this very walkable city.  Our list of the best things to do in Florence with kids includes iconic sights and hidden gems.

     

    Top 10 Sights in Florence For Kids

      

    #1:  Duomo With Kids (Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore)

    Florence’s Duomo, located in the center of the city, is the world’s third largest church, dwarfed only by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London.   Its neo-Gothic facade, which is decorated with pink, green and white Tuscan marble, was added in the 19th century and is brilliantly ornate.  It may be my favorite church exterior in the entire world, and I could spend hours examining its details.

    The Duomo’s dome was an impressive architectural feat.  Plans included a dome, even though the architects were not sure how to construct it.  The only dome on this scale was in Rome’s Pantheon, which was over 1,000 years old, and the building method had been long since forgotten.  Filippo Brunellschi studied the Pantheon to design the Duomo’s dome.  His plans involved the construction of both an inner dome and an outer dome.

    The Duomo’s dome

    While we did not make it inside on our last visit due to the long line, we planned to attend Sunday morning Mass at the Duomo during this visit.  Like many other cathedrals, the Duomo is foremost a religious building that just happens to also be a popular tourist attraction.  There were no admission fees or lines to attend Mass.  The Mass times posted online were not exactly accurate, so instead of arriving 15 minutes early for Mass, we ended up 15 minutes late but still welcome.  At the end of Mass, which was completely in Italian, the priest welcomed English-speaking visitors and briefly summarized the readings and his homily.  Attending Mass while traveling is a tradition for our family, and we’ve heard Masses in several foreign languages, and we all really appreciated and enjoyed this English greeting.

    The Duomo’s interior

    The interior of the Duomo is not as impressive as its exterior.  Large portions of the walls are painted white, and the stained glass windows are significantly smaller than those of other major cathedrals in Europe. Brunellschi’s 330-foot red brick dome was certainly an architectural masterpiece, but its mosaics are not as ornate as those that adorn the dome at St. Peter’s Basilica.  It’s still impressive and beautiful, just a bit underwhelming, especially when compared with interiors of other major European cathedrals.

    The interior of the dome
    • Duomo Facts for Kids:  The Duomo’s iconic dome was the first Renaissance dome and served as a model for many other domes, including St. Peter’s Basilica.

     

    #2:  Piazza del Duomo With Kids

    Piazza del Duomo is always crowded with the hustle and bustle of tourists and locals.  Because the square is relatively small, it’s hard to get a good view of the entire Duomo and the surrounding buildings, the Baptistery and Giotto’s Bell Tower from street level.

    The octagonal Florence Baptistery was constructed in the 11th and 12th centuries in Florence Romanesque style.  It is known for its three stunning 14th and 15th century doors.  Michelangelo nicknamed Lorenzo Ghiberti’s east doors the “Gates of Paradise.”  The Baptistery is a truly beautiful building, but it’s size seems to be disproportionate with the Duomo.  Their proximity really makes it hard to really appreciate each building for its own beauty, and we all wished they could be more spread out like Pisa’s Field of Miracles, which showcases its cathedral, baptistery and tower with an enormous square and pristine grass.

    The Giotto’s Bell Tower is another popular sight, and visitors can climb 414 to the top and get a close-up view of Brunelleschi’s dome.  We did not visit the interiors of either on this trip.

    • Piazza del Duomo Facts for Kids:  Lorenzo Ghiberti won a competition to design the Baptistery’s north doors, beating Donotello and  Brunelleschi.  The north doors took him 21 years to complete but were so impressive that he was asked to design the east doors, which face the Duomo.

     

    #3:  Ponte Vecchio With Kids

    Ponte Vecchio (or “Old Bridge”), Florence’s oldest and most famous bridge, is enclosed and lined with shops.  A bridge has been located on this site since 966, and the current stone, pedestrian bridge was completed in 1345.

    Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge across the Arno River to survive German’s World War II retreat on August 8, 1944.  There are many theories on why it wasn’t destroyed by the Nazis who blew up ancient buildings on either end to block it off.  Nazi officials may have saved it due to its age and beauty, or possibly it was saved because it was not considered a defensive asset.  Now, it is a popular tourist sight, with shops lining both sides.  Personally, I think that the view from Ponte Vecchio may be as beautiful of the bridge itself.

    • Ponte Vecchio Facts for Kids:   While butcher shops were originally located in Ponte Vecchio, Ferdinand I evicted them in the 16th century because he didn’t like the stench that emanated into Pitti Palace from their shops.  It is now a popular place to purchase jewelry.

     

    #4:  David Replica With Kids

    Michelangelo’s David replica statue may be one of the world’s most famous copies.  This marble statue depicts the Biblical hero who is known for defeating Goliath.  David is an iconic Renaissance sculpture, originally designed as a symbol of Florentine freedom to be placed on the Duomo’s roof line but ultimately placed at the entrance of the Town Hall upon completion.  After 350 years being exposed to the elements, David was moved to the Accademia Gallery in 1873 to protect it from damage.  A copy was placed in Piazza della Signoria in 1910.

    Michelangelo was raised in Florence, and his works were a highlight of our visits in Florence and Rome.  Michelangelo sculpted David in his late 20s as a symbol of Florentine freedom right before he was commissioned to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.  David and Pieta, which we saw at St. Peter’s Basilica a few days later, are probably Michelangelo’s two most well-known statues.

    • David Replica Facts:  David was originally intended to be installed in the Duomo’s roofline.  On November 12, 2010, a fiberglass replica was installed at the Duomo for one day.

     

    #5:  Piazza della Signoria With Kids

    Piazza della Signoria is the city’s main square, where its town hall, Palazzo Vecchio, the David replica and Fountain of Neptune are located.  The Fountain of Neptune was closed for restorations after vandalism during our 2007 visit and again under renovation during this visit but is scheduled to be reopened by the end of 2018.

    Palazzo Vecchio was constructed at the turn of the 14th century.  Duke Cosimo I and the Medici family made it their home in the 16th century.  I love that the Tower is unexpectedly slightly off-center.

    This castle-like fortress now serves as Florence’s Town Hall.  There was no charge (or line) to enter the ground-floor courtyard, so we took a quick peek inside.

    The Loggia dei Lanzi is a building on the corner of the Piazza del Signoria with wide arches open to the square at street level.

    • Piazza della Signoria Facts:  The Tower is not symmetrical with the rest of the Palazzo Vecchio because the ancient tower of The Vacca was incorporated into the palace’s design.

     

    #6:  Santa Croce Church With Kids

    The Basilica of Santa Croce is the world’s largest Franciscan church and located in the Piazza Santa Croce, only 800 meters from the Duomo.  Santa Croce was designed by architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who went on to design the Duomo and Palazzo Vecchio.  Santa Croce was built between 1294 and 1442, and is the burial place for Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, Ghiberti and Rossini.  Like the Duomo, the Basilica of Santa Croce features a 19th century neo-Gothic marble facade.  The Star of David is a focal point of the facade.  Santa Croce was featured in E.M. Forester’s A Room With a View and was the main impetus for my college visit to Florence because the book was one of my companion’s favorites.

    We did not tour the interior of Santa Croce because we really only had one full day to explore Florence, it was really hot, and we were a bit worried about church fatigue before heading to Rome.  We enjoyed the view of Santa Croce from Piazza Santa Croce, which is much larger than that square surrounding the Duomo.

    • Santa Croce Church Facts for Kids:  Piazza Santa Croce is a major gathering spot in Florence and was covered with 15 feet of water on November 4, 1966 when the Arno River flooded.

     

    #7:  Church of Santa Maria Novella With Kids

    The Church of Santa Maria Novella was built for the Dominican order in the late 13th and 14th centuries.  Its green and white marble facade is original 15th century artistry.  Santa Maria Novella remains the home of the Dominican order and the centerpiece of the adjacent square.  We did not visit the interior, which houses the Trinita, the first painting that featured linear mathematical perspective.

    • Church of Santa Maria Novella Facts for Kids:  Santa Maria Novella is adjacent to Florence’s train station, which is named after the church, and sometimes shortened to Florence SMN.

     

    #8:  Fort Belvedere With Kids

    Fort Belvedere is the largest fortress in Florence.  It is located across the Arno River from the central part of the city and on the highest hill of the Boboli Gardens.  I clearly remember the amazing panoramic view from my college visit and return 10-years later while visiting Florence with friends.

    Our pre-kids visit to Fort Belvedere

    Fort Belvedere is my favorite place to view Florence’s city center, and especially the Duomo, which rises far above the rest of the skyline.

    • Fort Belvedere Facts for Kids:  Fort Belvedere gained world-wide notoriety after Kim Kardashian and Kanye West rented it for their 2014 wedding for the reported sum of $400,000.

     

    #9:  Boboli Gardens With Kids

    Boboli Gardens are the gardens of the Pitti Palace.  They were constructed in the 16th century for Duchess Elenora of Toledo, who married Cosimo I of the Medici family.  Because we visited Florence on an extremely hot weekend, we came to the Boboli Gardens in search of a park bench in the shade with a view.  Adult tickets cost €10 each, and the kids were free.  We were sadly disappointed to find very few benches, and none in the shade.  We had to settle for taking a seat on a step of a staircase that had a magnificent view, but little shade and few benches.

    View of Pitti Palace and Fountain of Neptune

    Fort Belvedere is a steep hike from the Boboli Gardens.  We just couldn’t manage more walking on the hot day we visited, so we settled for the view from the entrance to the Boboli Gardens, which isn’t quite as detailed, but still shows the Duomo’s impressive scale over the Florence skyline.

    View of Florence from the Boboli Gardens
    • Boboli Gardens Facts for Kids:  At the time that Elenora married Cosimo I, the Medici family was in danger of becoming extinct.  Elenora had eleven children to protect the family’s future.  Clearly, she needed an amazing garden to relax.

     

    #10:  Piazza della Repubblica With Kids

    Piazza della Repubblica is located on the site the original Roman Forum.  The triumphal arch was constructed in the nineteenth century to celebrate Italy’s unification.

    The 20-horse antique carousel of the Picci family is now a centerpiece to this public space.

    • Piazza della Repubblica Facts:  The English translation of the arch’s inscription is “The ancient centre of the city restored from age-old squalor to new life.”

     

    A Trip With Kids to Florence, Italy

    There are so many fun things to do in Florence with kids, and this list just scratch the surface.  There were so top attractions in Florence that we definitely recommend a short trip.  Planning an Italian holiday?  Check out our listing of all posts featuring Italian destinations.  

  • Planning a Trip to Florence With Kids

    Planning a Trip to Florence With Kids

    Florence is one of my all-time favorite cities.  I first visited when I was a college backpacker and was fortunate to return 10 years later with my husband for an unforgettable weekend visiting friends in Tuscany.  It’s such an amazing city that I was excited to return with our three kids, aged 10, 8 and 3.  My prior visits had both been in March with perfect Spring weather. Even though our first family visit was during an exceptionally hot weekend in mid-July, we didn’t let the heat put a damper on our fun.   Our time in Florence was filled with delicious meals and iconic monuments, cathedrals, architectural sites and gardens.  With proper planning, a trip to Florence with kids can’t be ruined even by by scorching hot weather.

    The Duomo

    Travel to Florence With Kids

    We traveled to Florence by a rental car, which we picked up in Bologna the previous day.  We spent the night in Pisa and toured the Field of Miracles in the morning and explored San Gimignano, a beautiful hilltop town in Tuscany known for its medieval towers, in the afternoon.  Renting a car was a convenient way to make several stops off the beaten path without having to worry about coordinating train schedules or storing luggage.  Luggage storage was definitely a concern with visiting multiple cities by train in the same day.  Not all Italian train stations have luggage storage, and this would have been particularly an issue in San Gimignano, which does not have either a train station or luggage storage facilities.  However, the speed limits, driving patterns and limited traffic zones were particularly confusing and somewhat challenging.  We brought our GPS, which had international maps, but it directed us directly into limited traffic zones on more than one occasion.  As a result, our preference was to travel by train between cities whenever possible.

    Our rental car

    Much of Florence is a limited traffic zone, and parking is not ideal.  We were glad to drop off our rental car upon arrival.

    Not a typical parking garage

    Because of easy train connections, Florence would be a great base to explore Tuscany.  Three of my favorite Tuscan towns, Pisa, Lucca and San Gimignano are each easy day trips from Florence.  There are frequent trains from Florence to Pisa and Lucca, and visitors can reach San Gimignano from Florence by taking a train to Poggibonsi and transferring to a bus.

    Pisa’s Leaning Tower

    View of San Gimignano
    View of San GImignano

    Other nearby off the beaten path destinations in Tuscany include Orvieto, Panzano, Siena and Volterra.

    When leaving Florence, we took Trenitalia to Rome, which was a quick 90 minute journey from city center to city center.  Our train fare cost €96 for our family of five.  There was no charge for our three year old, but she also did not have a seat reserved for her.

    Trenitalia train

    Accommodations in Florence With Kids

    We stayed in an Airbnb about five minutes from the Duomo.  This traditionally decorated apartment was our most spacious accommodation during our European vacation and featured a separate kitchen and dining area in addition to two bedrooms and a living room.  It also had a flat screen television that we never turned on as well as a washing machine.  We were in Florence only two nights, but the size and ample storage available would make this apartment comfortable for a longer stay, especially for families using Florence as a base to explore Tuscan towns by train.  Irene is an Airbnb Superhost, and she let us store our bags in the apartment for about an hour after check out, which was extremely helpful.

    Living room

    Kitchen (with a washing machine hidden in one of the cabinets)

    Local Transportation in Florence 

    Florence was a very walkable city, and we did not used public transportation at all during our weekend stay.  Buses are available but not permitted in the area around the Duomo.  We did take a taxi from the rental car agency to our Airbnb.  It would have been a very long walk with luggage otherwise.

    Packing for Florence 

    Our entire trip was 17 days and 17 nights, but we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines.  We packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person, which was, as always, more than we really needed.  But, I worried that the promised laundry facilities might not be functioning in each of our locations and wanted to make sure that we did not have to visit a laundromat.  We also needed some bulky items like two Bubble Bum booster seats.  WOW air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees.  So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two back packs with us, and we also packed a gym bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.

    I had read extensively that cathedrals and churches in Italy require covered knees and shoulders, so we also each packed a few pairs of pants, and I did not bring any sleeveless dresses.  The rules may have been relaxed because of the heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited.  We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals in Italy, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin.  Shawls or scarves were available for visitors to purchase or borrow at Saint Mark’s and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin, respectively.  Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a shawl or scarf and left all the pants that I had packed for my sons and me at home.  And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.

    Our luggage

    I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing.  It’s amazing how challenging it can be to locate outfits from a large suitcase.  As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks.  This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.  Luckily, we had no trouble retrieving our suitcase at Charles de Gaulle Airport upon our arrival in Europe.  However, on the way back, we made the rookie mistake of packing our pajamas and remaining clean clothes into our backpacks along with our cameras and breakables and packed all of our new clothes and shoes and toiletries into the suitcase.  We also forgot to remove cash from the locked pocket before checking our suitcase.  When it didn’t make the connection in Reykjavik, we worried if we’d ever see it again and realized that so many things we had packed were irreplaceable because they were simply not available in the US.  Luckily, our bag arrived via FedEx Ground four days later.

    Ziplock organization

    We neglected to pack a supply of small soap bars and shampoo, which were typically not available in our Airbnbs.  But, we were able to find these items easily in local shops.  I also made an unfortunate assumption that our converter also had adapter capabilities when I brought my flat iron, which turned out to be unusable for the duration of our trip (and then delayed).

    With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, we decided to bring a small umbrella stroller with us.  While there were some challenges on cobble streets all over Italy, including in Florence, we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping.  She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping.  We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.

    Food in Florence 

    A major benefit of using our feet as a main mode of transportation in Italy was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free.  We typically sat down for lunch and dinner every day but made reservations only once (because we knew exactly what time we would eat dinner due to England’s semi-final World Cup match).  Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table.  We learned that a trattoria is more formal than an oysteria and less formal than a ristorante.  Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look.  A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on.

    Our favorite restaurant in Florence was I Ghibellini.  We enjoyed our dinner so much that we returned for lunch the next afternoon before our departure.

    I Ghibellini

    Each region had its own specialties, and menus were generally posted out front.  We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited, but we all tried a variety of dishes.  My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza.  I particularly enjoyed several amazing meals of seafood risotto.  At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed.  We found that restaurants did not provide tap water, so we always ended up purchasing a large bottle or two with every meal.  Cut watermelon was a special dessert treat.

    We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast.  We didn’t find a grocery in Florence but did pick up water at corner shops.  We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of gelato and watermelon, especially in Florence.

    Our most artistic gelato

    Cell Service in Florence 

    We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but only used cell service on our first day in Florence.  We turned on international usage as soon as we arrived to contact our host, who escorted us up to our apartment.   Then, the next morning, my husband used his phone to connect with his friend who was meeting us in the city. While WiFi was usually available at restaurants, we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi at our accommodation in the evenings.

    Currency in Florence

    We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency.  We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.

    Language Barrier in Florence?

    Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well.  My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary.  We experienced no language barriers in Florence.

    Pickpocketing Warning in Florence

    We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious.  I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag, and diligently kept the clasps locked.  If I ever felt slightly unsafe, I would hold the edge of the bag covering the clasp.  We had one run in with likely pickpocketers in the Rome train station but remained alert and careful and did not fall victim to their ploy.  Top pickpocket locations in Florence include Ponte Vecchio, Santa Maria Novella train station, the Basilica of San Lorenzo and market, the Pitti Palace and the Uffizi Gallery.

    Itinerary for Florence 

    We spent a weekend in Florence, arriving in the evening on Friday and departing mid-afternoon on Sunday.  The highs reached into the mid-90s every day of our visit.  We purposely chose to have a few laid back days and did not visit the Uffizi Gallery, the Accademia Gallery or any churches (except the Duomo).  Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we still saw many amazing sights.

    Here is our basic daily itinerary for our time in Florence:

    Day One

    • Arrive in Florence at 7 pm
    • Take a taxi to our Airbnb
    • Visit the Duomo at night

    Day Two 

    • Palazzo Vecchio
    • David Replica
    • Santa Croce
    • Santa Maria Novella
    • Boboli Gardens

    Day Three

    • Attend Mass at the Duomo
    • Roam around Florence
    • Mid-afternoon train to Rome

    Why We Loved Florence 

    Florence is a walkable and amazing Italian city.  The Duomo is one of the world’s most famous cathedrals, and there is also world renowned art, monuments, architecture and gardens.  Even in the extreme heat, we enjoyed every minute.  Considering a trip to Florence with kids?  Make sure to check out the rest of our blog posts on Florence with kids, our other blog posts about Rome and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy!

  • Off the Beaten Path in Italy With Kids

    Off the Beaten Path in Italy With Kids

    During our family vacation to Italy this past summer, we followed the classic itinerary and visited Venice, Florence and Rome.  We were not disappointed by these bucket list destinations in any way, but it was clear from our few detours off the beaten path that Italy has so much more to offer to tourists.  We’re already dreaming of a return trip to Italy, which will definitely include more stops off the beaten path in Italy.  We asked our favorite travel bloggers to recommend their favorite places off the beaten path spots in Italy and came up with this amazing list (which included a few of our own favorites):

    Northern Italy With Kids

     

    #1: Cittadella With Kids

    Cittadella is a beautiful walled city located between Vicenza and Venice. Our favorite part about Cittadella was being able to walk all the way around the 13th century walls, where we enjoyed amazing views of the city.

    We stayed in Vicenza for my husband’s work conference, so it was a quick 30 minute drive away. There is plenty of parking on the ring road around the walls. I wouldn’t recommend driving into the walled city. Try to find a parking place close to one of the four gates for easy entry.  Cittadella is a quaint city that doesn’t require more than a 1/2 day to explore.  We arrived in the late afternoon and stayed until dinner.

    After entering through the south gate, we grabbed some ice cream at Gelateria Antica Porta before making our way to the entrance to climb the walls. The entrance is located near the north gate and is easily accessible via the stairs (don’t bring a stroller). We paid our entrance, grabbed an informational paper and began our walk. The walk is pretty safe for children with some guard rails, but keep an eye on toddlers. After our walk, we descended and headed to dinner at Birreria Torre S.N.C.  Cittadella is great for kids because it features a medieval wall, a huge playground near the south gate and ice cream shops. The city is not pedestrian only (so watch the kids near the road), but the sidewalks are wide, and it’s easy to navigate.

    Recommended by Chelsea Kelly-Sipe from Pack More into Life.

     

    #2:  Como With Kids

    Small Italian towns don’t come quainter than Como, on the southern tip of Lake Como. We visited for one day, but I think three days is probably ideal. It’s easy to reach by train, 30 minutes from Milan, and the walk down to the Lake takes visitors through the gorgeous old town. Stop for a coffee outside the Duomo or the Basilica di San Fedele, a beautiful 10th century church.

    Kids will love the funicular ride into the surrounding hills and adults will love the breath-taking views from above. If it’s hot, there’s a cute little play area with some splash fountains – remember to bring a swimsuit and towel.  Visiting families will be spoiled for choice when it comes to restaurants, with so many available on the left side of the Lake. Most will be open for lunch, closing at around 3 and opening again for dinner at seven.

    Como is a great base to explore the other lakeside towns and to find some lake beaches.  There are regular steam boats and ferries visitors can use to get around.  Another option is to hire a car and head into the hills, but make sure it’s a small one, the streets are pretty narrow. And no, we didn’t see famous residents, Amal and George, but there’s always next time….

    Recommended by Karen from Are We There Yet Kids.

     

    #3:  Lucca With Kids

    One of our favorite family destinations in all of Italy is the lovely town of Lucca. Located in northern Tuscany, less than two hours from Florence by train, Lucca dates back to medieval times and has a timeless charm that makes it perfect both as a base to discover the area and as a stop during a Tuscany road trip.

    We first visited Lucca with the kids when they were 3 and 5. The town can be visited in a matter of hours, but it is worth taking a few days as it is really easy to enjoy with children.   The city still retains its medieval walls, and this means a large section of its center is car free. Our kids loved running around its small streets and were charmed by the many musicians fillings the air with beautiful notes: Lucca is the home town of composer Puccini, and his legacy is very much alive!  Older kids are likely to enjoy cycling along the city walls, and visitors of all ages will love Lucca’s many restaurants that offer delicious Tuscan fare.

    Recommended by Marta Correale from Learning Escapes.  Find out more from Marta about Lucca with kids.

     

    #4:  Milan With Kids

    Last year we spent six days in Milan with our little boy, who was 3.5 at the time. Compared to flights to Rome or Venice, the flight from Amsterdam to Milan was very cheap, and Italy was still on our bucket list, so that was an easy choice. The city is easy to navigate with public transport and very family friendly. Like the flights, accommodation is also a lot more affordable in Milan. It’s still a big city, so don’t expect ‘Asia cheap,’ but we managed to find a one bedroom apartment for €53 per night. We looked at hotels too, but with our little one in tow, a separate bedroom was a big plus. And to save some money, I cooked us dinner a few nights. We really enjoyed riding the old trams and visiting Sforzesca castle. Don’t forget to plan at least a half day for a visit to the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Technologia (Science and Technology Museum). San Siro Stadium, the ‘Temple of Soccer’ is worth a visit if you kids are soccer fans, and for race enthusiasts there is the Autodroma Monza. While not the obvious choice for a city trip to Italy, Milan really is a nice place to visit with kids.

    Recommended by Lisa from FlipFlopGlobetrotters.  Find out more from Lisa about great things to do with kids in Milan.

     

    #5:  Orvieto With Kids

    Orvieto is just off the highway that connects Rome and Florence, yet many visitors pass right by on their rush to get to Tuscany. Yet this medieval, Umbrian city is much quieter than its hilltop counterparts in Tuscany. With so much to do for kids, it deserves at least a pit stop, if not an overnight stay. The Orvieto Cathedral is simply stunning, a rival to the Duomo in Florence (minus the magnificent dome). Those who don’t mind a little adventure can climb down into St. Patrick’s well or take a tour of the Orvieto Underground. Even without visits to the museums and attractions, kids will love running through the park and exploring the cobblestone streets in the evening. Parents can enjoy wine tasting at a sidewalk table while kids play in the piazza with locals and finish off the evening with a gelato.

    Recommended by Tamara from We 3 Travel.  Find out more from Tamara about Orvieto with kids.

     

    #6:  Panzano With Kids

    Panzano is a quaint picturesque Italian town and is located in the Chianti/Tuscany region between Siena and Florence. Easily reachable by rental car, visitors will find it roughly equidistant from Bologna in the north (2 hours) or Rome in the south (2.5 hours).  We recommend using this hilltop village as a base for at least four nights to explore the sites and tastes of the Italian countryside.  Some of our favorite things to do in Panzano include taking a family cooking class at Toscana Mia, sampling offerings from the 7th generation butcher Dario Cecchini, visiting one of the many Renaissance villages and abbeys within a 30 minute drive, dining at one of the world-renowned wineries, and enjoying gelato or espresso in the town square. We recommend spending your nights at Villa Le Barone, a 16th century villa that is loaded with charm and history. The Independent Apartment is a perfect space for families and features a double bed plus two single sofa beds and offers privacy and a beautiful view of the rolling Chianti Hills.  We enjoyed spending time on the property as the pool, tennis courts and bicycle and walking trails give visitors an opportunity to get the kids outside and immerse themselves in this breathtaking countryside.

    Recommended by Brandy Morgan from Kid Allergy Travel.

     

    #7:  Pisa With Kids

    The Leaning Tower of Pisa is one of Italy’s most recognizable landmarks because of its unintended tilt.  Even though it isn’t the only leaning tower in Italy or even Pisa, it is world-renowned because of the degree of its tilt, the beauty of its architecture and the fact that Galileo used it in experiments that showed that objects of different mass fall at the same rate.  We spent a night in Pisa staying at a hotel across the street from the Leaning Tower when driving from Bologna to Florence.  The view of the Tower from our room was amazing.  While we planned to arrive late and head out after breakfast and a walk around the Field of Miracles, we extended our stay to tour the Cathedral and Baptistery and climb to the top of the Leaning Tower.

    Recommended by Catherine D’Cruz.  Find out more from Catherine about Pisa with kids.

     

    #8:  Riomaggiore With Kids

    Cinque Terre or Five Lands is a string of five picturesque fishing villages in the Liguria region of Italy. The five villages are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. We were lucky enough to visit Riomaggiore several years ago on a road trip through Liguria and parts of Tuscany. Riomaggiore really took our breath away with its colorful houses perilously perched on the rocky cliffs off the Mediterranean coast. We were so taken with the undeniable beauty of this place that we vowed to return in the future and properly explore all five villages.

    It is not possible to drive into Cinque Terre. To get there, we parked our car in the town of La Spezia and hopped on a train that takes visitors to all five villages. The train ride from La Spezia to Riomaggiore is only 10 minutes and is very affordable. The ride between each of the rest of the towns is only 5 minutes or less. Since we had very little time to explore, we only visited Riomaggiore. But visitors who have enough time to visit all five should buy a Cinque Terre card to save money and gain access to hiking trails and museums. Make sure to validate your ticket at one of the yellow machines at the train station before boarding the train! Exploring by train rather than foot is easier for those who have difficulty with their mobility or have very young children. Just be aware that the train is very crowded during high season. We felt like sardines in a can. Also, once in the towns, be prepared for lots of stairs and elevation changes when exploring.  Because of the terrain, a super thorough sightseeing may not be for everyone.

    When we return to explore Cinque Terre in the future, we would love to hike from village to village and stay in each for a couple days, or perhaps even longer.

    Recommended by Bea from PackYourBags.Org.  Find out more from Bea about Italy’s Liguria region.

     

    #9:  San Gimignano With Kids

    We spent a lovely afternoon in San Gimignano.  While driving from Pisa to Florence, we wanted to explore a typical Tuscan town and were so glad we chose this beautiful walled, hill town.  We could see the 14 medieval towers miles before we reached the outskirts of town and parked just outside the wall and walked into the city center and quickly came to Piazza del Duomo.  The adjacent Piazza della Cisterna, which is named for the cistern that was accessed from the center of the square, was the perfect place for a glass of wine (for the adults) and some gelato (for the kids).  The line at the world-famous Gelateria Dondoli was too long, and we desperately needed to sit in the shade, so we choose Le Terrazze instead.  After we were all refreshed, we decided that we couldn’t miss a 360 degree hilltop view and took a short walk to the Rocca.  San Gimignano is a beautiful medieval hill town, and it was a refreshing break on a trip spent mostly in large metropolitan tourist centers to spend a few hours in this quaint town.

    Recommended by Catherine D’Cruz.  Find out more from Catherine about San Gimignano with kids.

     

    #10:  Santa Margherita Ligure With Kids

    Just a short walk from ritzy Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure is the perfect base for families wanting to explore the Italian Riviera. Santa Margherita is a small port, fishing town and a popular resort with Italians. Its shingled shoreline boasts a couple of beach clubs, and the sea front is lined with cafes, restaurants and of course gelateries.

    Visitors strolling along the pretty cobbled streets stumble upon a magnificent baroque church and a castle with impressive views of the Ligurian Sea. On summer evenings, the town lights up with free entertainment and dancing.

    Santa Margherita is well serviced by public transport or families can drive from the closest airport at Genoa. To explore the Ligurian coast, visitors can walk to Portofino or take a day trip by train to the Cinque Terre. In summer, a ferry service hops along the coastal towns of the Italian Riviera. After spending a week in Santa Margherita, visitors will return home with that la dolce vita aura Italians are famous for.

    Recommended by Katy Clarke of Untold Morsels.  Find out more from Katy about the Italian Riviera with kids.

     

    #11:  Siena With Kids

    We stayed near Volterra, so the drive to Siena was just over an hour away, but perfectly worth it. Siena has the wow factor with medieval architecture, a beautiful elaborate (yet unfinished) cathedral and symbolic neighborhoods, which even today people take heed of.

    To make the most of visiting the beautiful medieval city of Siena with kids, I would highly recommend paying for a walking tour. We went with ‘Ariana and Friends’ who can tailor and pitch the tour exactly to your needs. We learned that Siena is comprised of 17 historic neighborhoods, each with its specific symbol showcased outside. Look out for dragons, caterpillars, geese, wolves, porcupines and more! Each family belonged to a neighborhood based on their profession or status.

    Not to be missed are the Basilica San Domenico and the Duomo, or a run around the Piazza del Campo and soak in the sights. There is a small exhibition for children inside the Santa Maria Della Scala (located opposite the Duomo) with several interactive opportunities too.

    For families visiting during the hot summer months, the swimming pool in Acquacalda may appeal. There are two outdoor pools: a large one with space for both swimming and relaxing and a smaller one for children.

    Recommended by Carrie Bradley from Flying With A Baby

     

    #12:  Trentino Region With Kids

    We have been to Italy multiple times and have to admit that it’s an extremely kid-friendly place to travel.  However, there are more towns, churches, or museums than any child can handle –  not to mention the huge crowds in the popular tourist destinations.  This summer we took our kids to the Trentino region in Northern Italy, and it became our favorite place for a family vacation in Italy.  Trentino has it all: spectacular mountain landscapes, quaint little towns, authentic Italian feel, and an incredible variety of family-friendly activities.

    Visitors can enjoy activities ranging from hiking to mountain-biking; spend a day at an adventure park, try bouldering, or explore the exhilarating yet family-friendly Via Ferrata trails. There are even special canyoning opportunities that are suitable for families with kids from five years and up.   Not into that much action? No worries. There are animal parks, petting farms, playgrounds, and plenty of beautiful mountain lakes where visitors can row a boat or go for a swim.  One thing that is lacking in Trentino is the crowds. It’s the perfect place for a truly family-friendly Italian vacation off the beaten path.

    Recommended by Jurga from Full Suitcase.  Find out more from Jurga on the best things to do in Trentino with kids.

     

    #13:  Treviso With Kids

    Treviso is a quiet, much less touristy and a little less beautiful version of Venice. We arrived with our rental car and stayed for one day and night before continuing to its famous neighbor. Walking through the city with our toddler, we loved the colorful buildings on the many waterways. There are of course a lot of restaurants, and because Treviso is not a touristy city the meals are very affordable. Romano is known for having the best ice-cream in town. So be prepared to stand in line, but after that you will enjoy some of tastiest Italian ice-cream ever. They provide a bib for kids and adults.

    There are many low-key attractions in town. Cycling fans will want to check out the Pinarello shop with the bike Froome used for his Tour de France wins. We also found a great playground on the Vialo Bartolomeo d’Alviano in one of many parks in Treviso. While Treviso does not host any special child friendly museums or theme parks, the laid-back atmosphere and friendly people makes it very suitable for families with young children. I do suggest bringing a stroller as the city center is rather big.

    Recommended by Tikva from GezinOpReis (Dutchtravelfamily).  Find out more from Tikva about Treviso with kids.

     

    #14:  Volterra With Kids

    Volterra is one of the most picturesque small towns in Tuscany. Located just over an hour from both Florence and Siena, this medieval town is best reached by car, but trains and buses are also an option. We would recommend a stay at a local agriturismo, as there are plenty in the area, and they are great options for families. We stayed at a lovely vineyard, Fattoria Corzano e Paterno, and drove to Volterra for the day.

    Volterra dates back to Etruscan times, and visitors should spend time exploring the remains of the 4th century city walls, the Etruscan Museum and Porta all’Arco, one of the town’s main gates built by the Etruscans. Kids will love exploring the Roman Theater ruins, one of the best preserved in Italy. Dating to the 1st century BC, the site includes the remains of the stage, seats, a forum, and even baths.

    After the ruins, spend time wandering the medieval streets of Volterra. Be sure to shop at the local alabaster shops, and make a stop at Piazza dei Priori, the main square, and home to the oldest town hall in Tuscany. Don’t miss the sandwiches at Panineria Al Vicolinio and gelato at L’Isola del Gusto before heading home for the day.

    Photo credit:  Creative Commons

    Recommended by Kirsten Maxwell from Kids Are A Trip.  Find out more from Kirsten about Tuscany with kids.

     

    South Italy With Kids

    #15:  Matera With Kids

    In Matera, Italy, visitors can stay in a cave! That by itself was a highlight for our kids, but there are many other things to do in this UNESCO Heritage Site. Visiting families can ride a tuktuk-style taxi around town to get a nice tour, visit a free museum of miniature replica of the town, or have gelato in one of the charming town squares.

    We stayed in Matera for three nights, three days and spent two days exploring the town and a day trip out to the Bari Coast on the third.  Matera is about a two hour drive from Naples, an hour and a half from Bari, and five hours from Rome. There are several cave hotels around town, but we stayed at the Residence San Pietro Barisano and had an amazing time! The rooms are right in front of the restaurant, so on one of the nights, we got to go outside our room and have a romantic dinner overlooking the town after the kids went to bed. We would recommend going to Matera with kids in a heartbeat!

    Recommended by Emily Jenks from Henry and Andrew’s Guide.

     

    #16:  Ostuni With Kids

    We love Ostuni in Puglia! Known as the white city, it can be seen for miles around, shining in the hilltop!   We flew into the nearby town of Brindisi, but Ostuni can be also reached by plane from Bari or via cruise ship.  Out five day stay was perfect giving us time to explore Ostuni and the surrounding area, including the UNESCO world heritage site Alberbello and also allowed for plenty of beach time!   I recommend staying with kids in a trulli house.  These traditional dry stone huts with conical roofs are common in the region and offer added authenticity that visitors won’t find anywhere else.

    Recommended by Leona Bowman from Wandermust Family.  Find out more from Leona about Puglia with kids.

     

    #17:  Salve With Kids

    Salve is located in the province of Lecce, Apulia region and entirely within the Salento peninsula, often called the “heel” of the Italian “boot”.  The village is set in the countryside amidst olive groves and native Mediterranean scrub. Perfectly nestled for easy reach to the sea-front fortified gems of Otranto and Gallipoli and Leuca, the luxurious seaside town, and Lecce, the capital of the province and a Baroque masterpiece town.

    White fine sand with shallow and crystal-clear water provide some of the most acclaimed beaches of the Ionian Salento Coast which are ideal for families with younger kids. On the Adriatic side you find breathtaking cliffs, caves and alcoves. Hidden and secluded tiny beaches among these cliffs provide excellent swimming and snorkeling stops for families with older children.  Visitors can also rent a small boat and explore this beauty at their own pace.

    During summer peak season, Salve and the surrounding area is a very lively place with kids as there are fun fair rides along the beach promenade and plenty of good restaurants to choose from.  For families who prefer a quieter time and don’t mind if some of the activities are already shut down for winter, September is a great month to visit.  Easiest way is to arrive by air directly to Brindisi – Salento airport – from where you can rent a car and drive about one hour south.

    Recommended by Corina Swan from Packed Again.

     

    #18:  Siracusa With Kids

    Our last trip to Italy brought us to a city many visitors ignore: stunning Siracusa. Located on the East coast of Sicily, Siracusa dates back to Greek times and now mixes seamlessly ancient history, medieval charm and a modern vibe.

    The city has two main areas of interest for visitors: the old city center, Ortigia, and the archaeological park. It is possible to visit both in one day, but we recommend you schedule at least a couple of days to appreciate Siracusa’s splendor.

    Ortigia is the part of the city we loved the most.  There is a plethora of beautiful buildings. The main duomo overlooks a large square perfect for kids to run around, and just a short walk down the road is the famous fountain of Arethusa and its resident ducks!  Older kids are likely to enjoy the archaeological park where they can visit the infamous Latomie and the largest Greek theater in the area, truly a sight to behold.  Nearby, inventors in the making can experiment to their heart content in the museum of Archimedes’ inventions, which pays homage to the city’s most beloved son.

    Recommended by Marta Correale from Learning Escapes.  Find out more from Marta about Siracusa with kids.

     

    #19:  Sorrento With Kids

    My family and I traveled from Rome to Naples on a train for 1 hour and 20 min.  Once we arrived we had a private guide, Lovely Amalfi Coast Tours, drive us down to the Amalfi Coast where we toured Ravello and Amalfi, had lunch in Positano and ended in Sorrento!  We stayed in Sorrento for two nights in a very nice four star hotel called the Grand Hotel De La Ville that overlooked Sorrento and Mt. Vesuvius.  This hotel has two rooftop pools with the best views in town!  Across the street is a wonderful children’s park, Parco Giochi Don Luigi Verde for families with small children that has plenty of slides, swings, rides, trampoline and a refreshment and snack bar for a quick bite to eat.  Another attraction near the hotel is a lemon orchard, Giardini Di Cataldo.  This orchard has lemon trees growing all over, and while the adults sample the famous limoncello, the little ones can run around wild and let out their wiggles out. Heading into the town is a must and is only about a 15-minute walk from the hotel.  Venturing through the charming cobblestone streets and vendors is all part of the adventure.  There are plenty of shops, restaurants and gelato to keep the whole family happy!

    Recommended by Vanessa Salomon-Perez from Travel Chic Fam.

     

    #20:  South Tyrol Region With Kids

    Our family recently discovered a wonderful place in Italy, truly off the beaten path. We have been to Italy several times, to places, like Rome, Florence and Venice – the usual suspects. But this time, we wanted to cool off in the Italian Alps, as the summer in Europe has been unusually hot. Before we set off on our road trip, we thought we knew what to expect from the Italian Alps, but we were in for quite a surprise. For our one-week camping and hiking excursion, we chose the region of South Tyrol (or Alto Adige in Italian). This is the home of the Dolomites, which are part of the Southern Limestone Alps. As we soon discovered, not all European Alps were created equal. We’ve been to the Alps in France, Switzerland, Austria and other parts of Italy, but the Dolomites just took our breath away. No wonder, the Dolomites are on the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites. Not only are these mountains beautiful, the towns picturesque, lakes out of fairy tales, but also, we were surprised to find out that in this part of Italy, German is widely spoken by the local population, as well as Italian. In fact, all names of places in this region have both an Italian name and a German name.

    During winter the Dolomites are very popular with skiers, but since we were there during the summer, here is what we did:

    • We slept in a tent at the Camping Olympia in the town of Dobbiaco (Toblach in German).
    • We hiked around one of the most beautiful lakes on the planet, Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee in German).
    • We explored the picturesque towns of Dobbiaco (Toblach) and Villabassa (Niederdorf in German) on bicycle.
    • We stuffed our faces with a local dish named “knodel” (“canederli” in Italian). I think I found my new favorite food.
    • We explored the bucolic countryside.

    So, for visitors looking for a different experience in Italy, with no crowds, surrounded by nature, with pristine lakes and a slower pace of life, look no further than the South Tyrol region in northern Italy.

    Recommended by Bea from Pack Your Bags.  

     

    Best Places in Italy

    With this list of the best places to visit in Italy for kids, we can’t wait to go back.  Check out all our posts on Italy for kids.

  • Things to Do in San Gimignano With Kids

    Things to Do in San Gimignano With Kids

    We spent a lovely afternoon in San Gimignano, a beautiful walled, hill town in Tuscany.  While driving from Pisa to Florence, we wanted to explore a typical Tuscan town and were intrigued by San Gimignano.  It is known as “the Town of Fine Towers” because of the medieval “skyscrapers” that are still the distinctive feature of the town’s skyline.  San Gimignano once had 72 towers used as either legitimate fortifications or simply as empty shells that served as ego boosters for wealthy families who either did not feel the need for extra protection or could afford an empty shell but not a protective tower.  Here are our recommendations for the best things to do in San Gimignano with kids.

    San Gimignano’s towers

     

    Planning a Visit to San Gimignano With Kids

     

    Transportation to San Gimignano With Kids

    Without traffic or stops along the way, San Gimignano is about an hour and a half from Pisa.  We had planned to leave Pisa right after breakfast and spend the day exploring Tuscany.  However, we decided to postpone our departure so that we could visit the Duomo, the Baptistery and climb to the top of the Leaning Tower, and we did not leave Pisa until about 12:30 pm.  We decided to stop for lunch at about 2:00 p.m. at the Toscana Resort Castelfalfi before continuing the last half hour to San Gimignano.  We could see the remaining 14 medieval towers miles before we reached the outskirts of this idyllic town, which is surrounded by vineyards and cypress trees.

    View of San Gimignano

     

    Visit San Gimignano With Kids

    The city center is a limited traffic zone.  Luckily, we noticed the “ZTL” signs because our GPS directed us into the prohibited zone several times while we were trying to locate parking.  There are significant fines for cars entering these zones without permission.  The GPS confusion required several u-turns, but we eventually located a parking lot just outside the wall and headed into the city center.  Because our daughter had rested in the car on the way to San Gimignano, we went sans stroller.  Even with a three year old walking on her own and without a good map, we reached Piazza del Duomo within about 10-15 minutes.  This 12th century Collegiate Church of San Gimignano (aka “the Duomo”) is not as intricate or ornate as the focal churches Venice, Pisa, Florence or Rome, but it is still an impressive example of Romanesque architecture.  Because of our limited time, we did not visit the interior but enjoyed a bit of people watching in the Piazza.

    Collegiate Church of San Gimignano

     

    An Afternoon in Piazza della Cisterna in San Gimignano

    Adjacent to Piazza del Duomo is Piazza della Cisterna, which is a triangular gathering place named for the cistern that was accessed from the well in the center of the square.  This Piazza is the home of the world-famous Gelateria Dondoli, which boasts its status as the Gelato World Champion for 2006-07 and 2008-09.  Gelato was a daily afternoon indulgence during our time in Italy, and we definitely could distinguish excellent gelato from corner shop gelato.  However, the line at Gelateria Dondoli was simply too long, and we desperately wanted to sit in the shade.  So, we choose Le Terrazze across the Piazza instead.

    The line stretched out the door at Gelateria Dondoli

    I thoroughly enjoyed a glass of vernaccia, a San Gimignano wine made from indigenous grapes, while my husband and our kids selected their gelato flavors.  We spent about 45 minutes relaxing on the shaded patio.

    After we were all refreshed, we took a look at the octagonal well at the center of the Piazza.  This well was originally built in 1273 and enlarged in 1346.

     

    Best View in San Gimignano For Kids

    We decided that the perfect end to our afternoon in San Gimignano would be to check out the 360 degree hilltop view.  So, we took a short walk to the Rocca.  The view most definitely did not disappoint.

    View from the Rocca

    Our visit to San Gimignano was a rare time that we did not bring our stroller on a sightseeing adventure and was pleasantly walkable for three year old legs.  We all particularly enjoyed the medieval touches of the city during the walk back to our car.

     

    Why We Loved San Gimignano With Kids

    San Gimignano is a beautiful medieval hill town.  While we spent most of our time in Italy exploring large metropolitan tourist centers, it was refreshing to spend an afternoon in this quaint town full of old world charm.  Our two and a half hour visit gave us plenty of time to see the town, but there are plenty of overnight accommodations for visitors who want to extend their stay.  Make sure to check out the rest of our blog posts on Florence and Tuscany before planning your next family adventure to Italy!

  • Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    Visiting Vatican City With Kids

    When we planned to spend five days in Rome at the end of our ten days in Italy, a day in Vatican City was at the absolute top of our must do list.  The Pope resides in Vatican City in Italy, which is generally considered as the center of the Catholic Church.  As Catholics, this was a unique religious pilgrimage.  Vatican City may be the world’s smallest country, but it is chock full of religious, architectural and artistic wows that make it a must-see destination, even for families with young children.  We loved visiting Vatican City with kids.

    The Vatican City attractions are the Vatican Museums, the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter’s Basilica and St. Peter’s Square.  The Vatican Museums are the fourth most visited art museum in the world with 6.4 million visitors in 2017 and the fifth largest art museum in the world.  The Sistine Chapel is part of the Vatican Museums and the chapel of the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope (although Pope Francis chose to live in the Vatican guest house instead).  St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and considered the most renowned example of Renaissance architecture.   The key-hole shaped St. Peter’s Square was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and can hold a whopping 300,000 people.

    A Day in Vatican City With Kids

    Getting to the Vatican With Kids

    The night before our trip to Vatican City, we wondered if passports were necessary.  A quick Google search clearly indicated they were not, and we were relieved to leave them hidden in our Airbnb.  We took the Metro from Barberini to Ottaviano, which was a quick five-stop journey on Line A of the Metro.  From Ottaviano, the Vatican Museums and St. Peter’s Basilica are each about a 10 minute walk but in different directions.  We had no problem following the crowds toward the Vatican Museums.  Along the way, we were approached by seemingly dozens of tour guides offering tickets and packages but were fortunate to have prebooked our Vatican City ticket and did not have to chance the legitimacy of these tours.

    Vatican City Tickets 

    There are many options for Vatican Museum skip the line tours.  We prebooked our Vatican Museums tickets (which included a guided tour and Sistine Chapel entry) directly through the Vatican Museums’ website, as recommended by our friends at Two Traveling Tots.  Our kids generally enjoy guided tour, and we were not concerned that this wasn’t specifically a Vatican tour for kids.  We arrived in Vatican City more quickly than expected and uncharacteristically one hour early for our 11 a.m. tour.  When we arrived at the Vatican City entrance, we showed our booking voucher to the customer care staff outside the entrance and were told to return at 10:30 a.m., 30 minutes before our 11:00 am tour.  So, we found a bit of shade and stood with all the other early tourists and were grateful that we weren’t standing in the line for visitors arriving without tickets that stretched around the corner and down the street.  A couple at the front of the line told me that they had been waiting for two hours.

    Waiting for our designated entry time

    At 10:30 a.m., we presented our vouchers for the Vatican Museums and Sistine Chapel tour and were vaguely directed inside to collect our tickets.  We first tried an automated machine in the lobby, but found that it did not work because we had ordered reduced price tickets for our sons.  We stood in line at the ticket counter on the left side of the lobby but discovered that was also wrong.  We ended up finding the correct counters by the door leading from the lobby into the Museums, collected our tickets and headed to the designated meeting point not long before our 11 am tour.

    The correct ticket counters for visitors with guided tour vouchers

    Our designated meeting point

    Our tour guide, Patrick, gave us each a headset.  After the group had assembled, he explained that the tour would be an hour and a half to two hours and end at the Sistine Chapel.  Because silence is required in the Sistine Chapel and tour guide narration is strictly prohibited, Patrick spent about 15 minutes in front of a diagram of the Sistine Chapel located outside of the Vatican Museums describing in detail what we would see when we did reach the Chapel.

    Our first official stop on the tour was the Cortile della Pigna where Patrick talked about the Fontana della Pigna.  This sculpture of a pine cone and peacocks dates back to the 1st or 2nd century and used to be a fountain.  The Pigna was located near the Pantheon until the Middle Ages.

    Fontana della Pigna

    We then proceeded into the Vatican Museums, which contain four miles of displays of one of the world’s best art collections from antiquity to Renaissance.  Our visit to the Louvre, the mother of all art museums, less than two weeks earlier, in no way prepared us for the massive crowds that piled into the Vatican Museums.  With a family of five, including a stroller, it was often a challenge to stay together and with our tour group among the shoulder to shoulder crowd that made me feel like I was perpetually in the Mona Lisa room.  The Tapestry Gallery was particularly crowded, likely because it was air-conditioned to protect the tapestries.  Tapestries from Raphael’s workshop are displayed on the left wall, and the sculpted reliefs on the ceiling are breathtaking.

    This was what the crowd looked like pretty much in every gallery of the Vatican Museums

    The Gallery of Maps features a series of topographic maps commissioned by Pope Gregorius XIII.  The 40 panels were completed by geographer Ignazio Danti between 1580 and 1583.  The ceiling was colorful and memorable.  Apparently, the windows provide a great view of Vatican City, but there was clearly no ability to stop on the day we visited.

    Ceiling of the Map Gallery

    Impressively detailed maps of Italy

    Raphael’s Rooms are four galleries that were previously papal apartments and contain frescoes by Raphael and his assistants completed between 1508 and 1524.  The second room, Stanza della Segnatura, features Raphael’s famous School of Athens, which depicts Aristotle and Socrates.  Leonardo da Vinci appears as Plato, and Raphael appears as himself.  Raphael painted School of Athens while Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel and added Michelangelo at the front.

    Raphael’s School of Athens

    As we left Raphael’s Rooms, our tour guide instructed the group that we would go down a few staircases and then reconvene.  My husband and I somehow got separated in the crowd and each thought the other was in front.  All three kids, including my daughter, who was soundly sleeping in her stroller, were with me.  The two boys and I made sure that she was tightly buckled into her stroller and carefully carried it down several staircases, all absolutely packed with people not particularly willing to give us the extra space we needed.  For some time, I could still hear Patrick talking through my headset but never found him again.  I managed to stay calm during those chaotic 20 minutes even though I did not have cell service, WiFi wasn’t available, and we had no backup plan for meeting if we got separated.  While the art was definitely spectacular, it was my husband who was the most welcome sight when we entered the Sistine Chapel.  We recommend a visit to the Vatican for kids.  The tour was informative, but we will likely arrive with a detailed map and go the self-guided route next time or take a private Vatican tour with kids.

     

    Visiting the Sistine Chapel With Kids

    The Sistine Chapel is the Pope’s personal chapel and where new popes are elected during the Papal Enclave.  It is world-renowned for its ceiling, a cornerstone work of High Renaissance art painted by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1512.  We were glad that Patrick provided historical background and details of the paintings before our tour of the Vatican Museums began.  Pope Julius II commissioned Michelangelo to paint the flattened barrel vault ceiling and envisioned each of the 12 triangular pendentives to contain the image of one of the apostles.  Michelangelo first declined, insisting he was a sculptor rather than a painter, but eventually accepted on the condition that he have artistic license.  Michelangelo was in his mid 30s when he painted these ceiling frescos, which depict nine panels illustrating the Book of Genesis.   He completed the 5,900 square feet of painting almost entirely on his own (in contrast to Raphael, who employed assistants to complete his designs).  The famous center panel features The Creation of Adam and depicts God reaching out to give life to the first human.

    Twenty-three years after completing the Sistine Chapel ceiling, Michelangelo returned to the Sistine Chapel to paint his Last Judgment.  Patrick described how Michelangelo placed Jesus in the center and incorporated the image of an archbishop who was critical of his work naked and in hell.  These memorable stories stayed with us even though we had to wait until the very end of the tour to see the Chapel first-hand.

    While Pope John Paul II was Pope from 1978 to 2005, there have been two Papal Enclaves since his death.  Pope Benedict XVI was elected during the Papal Enclave that occurred in the Sistine Chapel following Pope John Paul II’s death.  After Pope Benedict XVI retired in 2013, Pope Francis was elected during the second Papal Enclave held inside the Sistine Chapel in eight years.

    Photography is strictly prohibited in the Sistine Chapel as is talking, and covered shoulders were a must.  Guards regularly repeat, “Silence” to remind awe-struck visitors that this is a high holy chapel.   After we spent about 20 minutes oohing and aahing, we left the Sistine Chapel and were happy to find both bathrooms and a souvenir shop before continuing to St. Peter’s Basilica about 30 minutes later.

    • Napping in the Sistine Chapel:  As full disclosure, my three-year old daughter slept through our entire visit to the Sistine Chapel.  She never laid eyes on Michelangelo’s ceiling or Last Judgment, and we weren’t concerned.  At age three, she had visited six of the eight most visited art museums in the world and countless cathedrals, basilicas and chapels.  We can’t control when she needs to sleep and wouldn’t dare to purposely wake her in the middle of the Pope’s chapel.  It wouldn’t be a pretty sight for anyone.  She did wake up on her own to fully enjoy St. Peter’s Basilica.
    • Pro tip:  Follow the exit at the back of the Chapel directly to St. Peter’s Basilica.  It is officially for Vatican guides and their groups only and not 100% reliable and meant we missed the stunning double helix Brumante Staircase, but it saved us from waiting in another security line outside of St. Peter’s.

     

    Visiting St. Peter’s Basilica With Kids

    St. Peter’s Basilica is the world’s largest church and the site of St. Peter’s tomb, which is believed to be directly underneath the main altar.  St. Peter was one of the 12 Apostles and moved to Rome and became the first Pope after witnessing the resurrection of Jesus.  He was crucified in about A.D. 65 under Emperor Nero Augustus Caesar.  Emperor Constantine built a church on the site where St. Peter was martyred in the fourth century, but by the 16th century, the Old St. Peter’s church was falling apart.  Construction of St. Peter’s Basilica took about 120 years, 20 popes and 10 architects to complete and then it took another 200 years before the interior decorating was finished.

    View of St. Peter’s Basilica from the Colonnades

    For visitors who do not arrive at St. Peter’s from the special Sistine Chapel exit, there is no admission to enter St. Peter’s, but the security lines can be lengthy at times.  At the far-right entrance to St. Peter’s Basilica, we saw the Holy Door, which is opened in designated Jubilee years that occur every 25 or 50 years (last of which was in 2000) or as specially designated by the Pope.  Pope Francis designated 2015-2016 an Extraordinary Jubilee of Mercy and opened the Holy Door out of cycle.  My friend and his wife were able to walk through it during this exciting year.  Because 2018 is not a Jubilee Year, it was closed and even boarded up from the inside but still beautiful to see.  I’m not sure why I’m so fascinated by this door, but I’m secretly planning for Spring Break 2025, the next Jubilee Year.  I am already planning the 2-3 perfectly timed days we’ll spend in Rome when we will secure tickets for a papal audience or papal Mass, visit the Pantheon early in the morning, fully explore the Vatican Museums, show my daughter the Sistine Chapel and find a way to check out the Spiral Staircase and use the secret exit connecting the Sistine Chapel to St. Peter’s Basilica.

    The Holy Door

    We entered St. Peter’s directly from the Sistine Chapel and were overwhelmed by the immense size.  We had just been wowed in the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo’s painting of the ceiling and Last Judgment, and it’s hard to believe that Sistine Chapel masterpieces could be considered as a prelude to Michelangelo’s work in St. Peter’s.  Michelangelo’s sculpture, Pieta, is a representation of Mary holding Jesus’ body that shows his skills as a master sculptor.  It is unbelievable to me that he completed Pieta, his first major commission that is now displayed at St. Peter’s, at age 24.

    Michelangelo’s Pieta

    Michelangelo not only created paintings and sculptures that would be recognized among the most notable works of art 500 years after his death but also designed St. Peter’s Basilica dome, which rises 448 feet (longer than the length of a football field).  Michelangelo was named lead architect in 1546 and studied the domes of the Pantheon and Florence‘s Duomo before designing his plans.  Michelangelo continued working on the dome until his death in 1564.

    Michelangelo’s dome

    The Basilica’s main altar is made of a marble slab and surrounded by Gian Lorenzo Bernini’s impressive seven-story bronze canopy and located below the dome.   My eight year old photographer made sure to capture the view.

    Bernini’s dove window was one of my favorite ever.  It may not be as intricate or as colorful as medieval stained glass, but I couldn’t take my eyes off this alabaster window.

    The Tomb of Pope John Paul II is located in St. Peter’s below St. Sebastian, his favorite saint.  Pope John Paul II was the Pope of my young life and sainted in 2014.

    Tomb of Pope John Paul II

    Our last stop in St. Peter’s was to visit the crypt, which contains the tombs of many popes, but photography is not permitted, and we also did not sneak any unauthorized pictures.  We spent approximately 45 minutes in St. Peter’s before heading outside into St. Peter’s Square.

     

    St. Peter’s Square With Kids

    St. Peter’s Square is one of the world’s most famous squares.  It was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and includes 284 Doric columns, each 56 feet tall and topped with sculptures of 140 saints.  The square is an elliptical shape to symbolize the arms of the Church welcoming all people.

    Checking out the obelisk

    In the center stands an Egyptian obelisk, which is 2,000 years old and 90 feet tall.  It is made of granite and weighs about 300 tons.

    We spent some time wandering through the covered walkway around the Square, desperate to stay in the shade as long as possible.  We found one of the many Roman water fountains and used it to hydrate and cool off.  After spending about 30 minutes in St. Peter’s Square, we headed off in search of lunch.

     

    Why We Loved the Vatican For Kids

    Our visit to Vatican City was certainly one of the most educational parts of our trip.  We all gained a much deeper understanding of Renaissance art and architecture, developed a newfound appreciation for Michelangelo and learned quite a bit of Catholic history.  It would have certainly been easier to visit without a stroller, but even my three year old enjoyed her time in Vatican City, particularly St. Peter’s Basilica.  We definitely recommend Vatican City for kids.  To find out more about family travel to Italy, check out our other blog posts about Rome, Florence and Venice and our listing of all destinations in Italy.