A visit to Venice was an essential part of our family’s itinerary for our summer vacation in France and Italy. My husband and I had each visited Italy previously, but neither of us had been to Venice and were intrigued by the City of Canals. Even though it was hot and crowded at times during our mid-July visit, Venice lived up to our expectations and more. Our gondola ride was definitely the highlight, but St. Mark’s Basilica, the Rialto Bridge, Doge’s Palace, shopping and exploring the narrow pedestrian streets were all unforgettable. Visiting a pedestrian-only city requires some special planning considerations, but there are so many things to do in Venice with kids.
Planning a Family Trip to Venice
Traveling to and from Venice, Italy With Kids
We booked our trip to Europe a mere 5 1/2 weeks before our departure due to scheduling issues. We had discovered while booking flights that flying from Cleveland to any major Italian city cost between 2-3 times the total of our round trip flight on WOW air to Paris. However, because there were plenty of budget flight options from Paris to Italy, we booked round trip flights to Paris and planned to spend 10 days in Italy in the middle of our trip.
After securing our flights to Paris, we wanted to finalize our transportation to Italy. Before we booked our planned evening flight from Paris to Venice, we discovered that arriving into the Venice Airport at night is particularly challenging with local transport limited to expensive water taxis. Most Airbnb hosts meet their guests upon arrival and require hefty late check in fees, and we wondered if we would be able to check in if our flight was delayed. On a whim, we looked into overnight train options. Almost immediately, we found Thello’s night train from Paris to Venice that fit our needs perfectly. The train was scheduled to leave Paris at 7:10 p.m. and arrive in Venice at 9:35 a.m., so we would lose very little sight-seeing time in transit and avoid travel time to and from airports. At €35 per person for a couchette with bedding, it was a particularly affordable option, and the sleeper cars looked much better than any I had taken during my backpacking days.
Even though my three year old did not have to pay to ride the train if she used existing seats/couchettes, we did not think that we could comfortably have two people share a couchette in one of the four person sleeper cars. So, we chose to book all the couchettes in a six person sleeper car to make sure that no other passengers were placed with our family. The overnight train cost us a total of €210, which was roughly the same as our average accommodation cost! I figured that we also saved at least $800 by avoiding flights, travel to and from the airports in Paris and late Airbnb check in fees.
We were pretty sure that our kids would enjoy the overnight train as a fun family sleepover experience, and they definitely did. The three level bunk beds were a particular hit. We bought dinner in Gare de Lyon before our departure and had a relaxed evening in our sleeper car. Our boys chose the top bunks, and our daughter quickly mastered climbing the ladder up and down. We all slept for about nine hours of the journey. The main negatives were that we couldn’t shower and the train arrived in Venice about an hour and a half late, which meant we were late for our scheduled Airbnb check in. Otherwise, taking an overnight train from Paris to Venice was a fun and convenient way to travel. While we flew from Rome to Paris at the end of our time in Italy, it took seven and a half hours door to door, which meant that we lost almost an entire day of sightseeing en route. We’ll definitely consider a night train in the future.
We departed Venice by taking a Trenitalia train from Venice to Bologna. We planned to rent a car to explore Northern Italy, but found renting a car from Venice challenging because the island is pedestrian only. It seemed easier to take a train to Bologna rather than travel to Venice’s Marco Polo Airport to pick up our car.
Accommodations in Venice
Although we booked our 2 days in Venice only a few weeks in advance, we found an amazing Airbnb in Venice. We stayed at La corte di San Marco, an Airbnb close to Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Rialto Bridge. This authentic, air-conditioned Venetian apartment was updated and had two bathrooms and a washing machine. The host, Jenny, was extremely responsive and had lots of tourist information available in her clutter-free apartment.
The master suite featured its own attached bathroom with a unique arched doorway.
The kids slept on a pull out couch and single bed located in the apartment’s large living area. This room featured exposed ceiling beams, a kitchenette and dining table. We did not eat any meals in the apartment, but it was well-equipped with all the necessities and even offered children’s silverware.
The apartment also had an adorable enclosed outdoor patio connected to the master bedroom, the main living space and the laundry room.
Jenny asked that we place a barrier in the door frame of the apartment’s front door every time we left the apartment due to possible flood waters. With the recent severe flooding in Venice, the danger is clear, and we hope that La corte di San Marco did not sustain any damage. We would definitely recommend La corte di San Marco for families visiting Venice and would not hesitate to book this Airbnb again ourselves.
Local Transportation in Venice
We found most of Venice very walkable but did need public transportation to get to our Airbnb. With no roads in Venice, buses or taxis are not an option. The public transit system consists of water buses, which are known as vaprettos. One way tickets for riders over age six cost €7 each, which is substantially higher than typical public transportation costs in other metropolitan areas. We are experienced mass transit riders, but found the vapretto system somewhat confusing. After purchasing tickets from the kiosk, riders need to validate at the electronic ticket reader before boarding. Typically, no one checks tickets on the vapretto itself, but a rider without a validated ticket could be subject to a hefty fine.
Lines 1 and 2 follow the Grand Canal, and Line 1 makes 14 stops between Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s Square while Line 2 is the express option that makes only 5 stops. Lines 4 and 5 circumnavigate the main island. Upon arrival, we purchased tickets and were directed to Line 4 because it is the shortest journey from Santa Lucia Railway Station and St. Mark’s. However, we had to wait quite some time for a Line 4 vapretto to arrive and didn’t have the most scenic route. On the way back to the train station, we chose to take the slightly longer but much more aesthetically enjoyable route on Line 1 through the Grand Canal, which we definitely recommend.
Packing For a Trip to Venice
Our entire trip to Europe was 17 days and 17 nights. Because we were primarily staying at homestay apartments with washing machines, we packed approximately five to six full outfits for each person. It was definitely more than we really needed, but I always worry about washing machines not working and want to avoid visiting a laundromat on vacation at all costs. Wow air charges for each carry on larger than a personal item (e.g. backpack) and each checked bag, which cannot weigh over 44 pounds without incurring overweight fees. So, we chose to check one bag and also bring two backpacks with us and also carried an extra bag inside our checked suitcase, knowing that we would likely be returning with more than we brought with us.
With a three year old who would need to nap on the go, a stroller was a necessity. While we did need to carry our small umbrella stroller up and down stairs at times, especially over Venice’s many bridges, we found that much easier than carrying our daughter, especially when she was sleeping. She typically hopped out whenever we reached stairs to make the stroller easier to manage, and my ten year old was an expert in helping when she was sleeping. We do look forward to being stroller-free soon but will miss the built-in storage and bottle holders.
I’ve never tried packing cubes, mostly because I don’t want one more thing to store and search for before a trip, but I have been intrigued by the organization of separate packing. It’s amazing how challenging it can be to choose outfits from a large suitcase. As an experiment, I rolled and packed each person’s clothes in zip lock bags and had separate bags with our pajamas and first day clothes packed into one of the backpacks. This helped with the organization of the large suitcase and provided a back up in case our suitcase was delayed at the beginning of the trip.
My packing was efficient, but it was far from perfect. I forgot a few easy to purchase items like soap and shampoo and found that our converter was not compatible with my flat iron. I had read that cathedrals and churches in Italy require visitors have covered knees and shoulders, so we also each brought a few pairs of pants, and I decided not to bring any sleeveless dresses. The rules may have been relaxed because of the July heat, but the covered knees rule was not enforced at any church we visited. We probably visited two dozen churches and cathedrals, and covered shoulders were required only at the Sistine Chapel, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the Basilica of Saint Mary in Cosmedin. At Saint Mark’s, coverings were available for a small fee at the entrance to the church. Shorts and sundresses were appropriate outfits for the unseasonably warm weather we experienced, and I wish I brought more sundresses and a scarf and left all the pants for me and the boys at home. And, next time, we’re definitely going with a maximum of four to five outfits each.
Eating in Venice With Kids
A major benefit of using our feet as the main mode of transportation in Venice was that we could enjoy amazing Italian meals guilt free. We typically sat down for lunch and dinner. Even during peak tourist season, we never had to wait more than five minutes for a table. Hosts or hostesses often stand outside to encourage anyone passing by to take a look. A few times, we were put off by a hard sell and moved on. We noticed that chicken was not really available at any of the restaurants we visited in Venice, but we all tried a variety of dishes. My older son was particularly adventurous, and my younger son developed a love of margarita pizza. I enjoyed amazing daily seafood dishes, including of seafood risotto and salmon pasta. At dinner, my husband and I regularly shared house wine and were never disappointed. We found that restaurants did not provide tap water, so we always had to purchase a large bottle or two with every meal.
We had some fabulous meals during our two days in Venice and visited one restaurant that we would not recommend.
Trattoria da Nino. Following our arrival in Venice and some relaxation in our Airbnb, we headed out for our first Italian meal. We settled on Trattoria da Nino and sat on the outside patio. My husband ordered squid ink pasta, a Venetian specialty, and we had a lovely time watching people pass by on the narrow pedestrian street.
Ristorante Agli Artisti. On the first night, we headed out to find a restaurant showing the France-Belgium Semi-Final FIFA World Cup match. We stumbled upon Ristorante Agli Artisti, which had an available table with a perfectly situated television. Service was impeccable, and the food was wonderful. The eclectic decor included exposed wood beams, grape vines and grapes and other interesting objects affixed to the walls and ceilings, and I especially liked the Murano glass water tumblers. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and celebrated France’s win.
As soon as we paid the bill, my husband asked to reserve the same table for 8 pm the following night for the England-Croatia Semi-Final FIFA World Cup Match. A family from New Zealand with a father who also grew up in England reserved the table next to ours for the same reason the following afternoon. Their three young daughters were not at all interested in the game but excitedly invited our daughter to join them in watching Netflix on their iPad as soon as we finished eating. World Cup soccer might not be a can’t miss activity on everyone’s European vacation, but my husband and sons are soccer fanatics, and that England-Croatia match was England’s first time in the World Cup Semi-Finals since 1990. Unfortunately, the ending was a devastating loss.
Rio Venice di Chen Weili. On our final afternoon in Venice, we ate lunch at Rio Venice di Chen Weili, which was unfortunately our least favorite meal in Italy. Service was slow, the food was mediocre and we were charged a much higher service fee than anywhere else in Italy. Had we had data to check reviews before we entered, we would have avoided this restaurant. Note that we had been warned that many menus (including Rio Venice’s) feature seafood platters priced per 100 grams, which some tourists believe to be a fantastic bargain and order. The surprise comes at the end when they discover they are charged 10 times the advertised price for a 1000 gram meal.
We did not prepare any meals in our Airbnb apartments but occasionally warmed up leftovers for breakfast. We made sure to have a daily afternoon dose of tasty gelato. The most creative presentation were creative flower-shaped cones. Check out this guide to the best gelato in Venice.
Shopping With Kids in Venice
We generally enjoy peeking into local souvenir shops while traveling but particularly enjoyed checking out all the gorgeous Murano glass in Venice, and our next visit to the city will definitely include a trip to the Murano, a Venetian island. Ever since I purchased a stone turtle on Bavaro Beach in Punta Cana, I’ve looked for the most unique and traditional decorative turtles during our travels. We probably visited every glass shop, looking for the perfect turtle, and of course, ultimately settled on the first one we saw.
One shopkeeper gave us a mini-lesson on how Murano glass is made. My daughter loved the glass and carefully looked at all the pieces while keeping her hands glued to her sides. She chose one of the Christmas trees on her left from this shop.
While the island typography clearly made transportation of goods more challenging in Venice, prices for shoes, clothes and souvenirs were not dramatically inflated. I even found a pair of Geox sandals significantly reduced from what I would have paid in the US.
Restrooms in Venice With Kids
Restrooms are not as widely available in European cities as they are in the US. Free restrooms for customers are often available in restaurants, hotels and museums, but public restrooms typically require a fee. My three year old and I visited a public WC in Venice. The €1.50 fee was only charged for me, continuing the glorious European trend that kids under six are never charged for admission. The restroom fee may be an unnatural phenomenon, but the facilities were clean.
Cell Service in Venice
We researched relatively inexpensive options to add voice/data to our Verizon mobiles while in Italy but used only WiFi service in Venice. WiFi was available at all of the Venetian restaurants we visited, and we were able to mostly unplug during the day and use WiFi in the evenings.
Currency in Venice
We definitely needed to use euros at times in Italy, so it was essential to get some local currency. We traveled with about €200 in cash and then withdrew money twice from ATMs during the trip.
Language Barrier in Venice
Most people in the Italian tourist industry speak English, and almost all menus were translated into English as well. My husband and I both learned some key Italian words and phrases, which were helpful in exchanging pleasantries but were rarely necessary. The only time we truly experienced a language barrier was at lunch outside of Modena where no one spoke English. We thought we ordered three fixed price, three-course meals but wondered when the large portions of delicious food were brought to our table if we misunderstood the pricing scheme. It turned out to be an amazing and unbelievably inexpensive meal.
Pickpocketing Warning in Venice
We had read many reports of pick pockets active in Italy and were extremely cautious. I carried a Travelon anti-theft messenger bag (review), and diligently kept the clasps locked. Our valuables were all safe during our visit to Venice, and we did not have any run ins with likely pickpocketers as we did in the Rome train station. But, with three kids, I’m often distracted and felt much more secure with my belongings secured inside of anti-theft bag.
Planning Our Italy Itinerary for Venice With Kids
To help get our kids involved with planning our five nights in Italy, I borrowed some children’s books on Venice from our local library, including 13 Architects Children Should Know, which featured Venice’s Andrea Palladio’s Church of the Most Holy Redeemer.
We prebooked our visits to St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace, but made errors in each. We scheduled the 4:30 pm entry into St. Mark’s Basilica without realizing that the Basilica closed at 5:00, making our visit very rushed. And, we mistakenly made reservations for a special exhibit at the Doge’s Palace opening in September instead of general admission entry. These mistakes were unfortunate, but luckily our only booking missteps.
Best Itinerary for Venice With Kids
We spent two days in Venice at the beginning of 10 days in Italy and planned to take a slower pace, sit and enjoy meals, watch World Cup games and really explore each city. We really didn’t acclimate to waking up early, and it was always late before we got into bed. Even though we weren’t in full tourist mode, we saw many of Venice’s top sights during our 48 hour visit. We didn’t have time to visit Venice’s other islands, including Burano or Torcello or the Lido beaches, but next time we hope to explore beyond the main island.
Here is our basic daily itinerary:
Day One – Venice
- Train arrives in Venice at 11 a.m.
- Take vapretto to Airbnb
- Explore Venice streets
- Saint Mark’s Square
- Rialto Bridge
- Gondola ride
- World Cup Game
Day Two – Venice
- Doge’s Palace/Bridge of Sighs
- Explore Venice streets
- Return to Saint Mark’s Square and Rialto Bridge
- Visit Saint Mark’s Basilica
- World Cup Game
Day Three – Depart Venice
- Vapretto ride up Grand Canal to train station
- Train to Bologna
Venice For Kids
We highly recommend a trip to Venice for kids. Make sure to check out our listing of blog posts on visiting Italy, including posts about Florence and Rome.
As Edwin showed us our suite, he joked with the kids that the bathroom on the living room side of the suite was for their use only and that they should not use the adults’ bathroom. My daughter, the perpetual rule-follower, took his words as law and absolutely refused to use the bathroom off the bedroom, even when it was more convenient. Edwin was a joyful presence throughout our stay and definitely a highlight of the resort.
